HOW TO ROOF A HOUSE! [DIY]

what is up everybody it is life's apprentice today we're going to be teaching you guys how to roof a house and uh nice little example of a house right here ranch about 15 squares pretty simple but we're going to go step by step and show you guys exactly how to tear off and re-roof a house first thing you need is a roofing shovel tear-off shovel there's many varieties you can see the teeth right here are made for pulling nails and you can get some variety of this at any of your home depots lowe's menards that kind of stuff and this is what we use to tear off the shingles and pull the nails we're going to start on the ridge pull the ridge off and then today it's raining it's hard to tell but it's definitely raining um supposed to be done but we'll see it's raining real light we're gonna tear off this back side here try to get this prepped [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] we got all the shingles torn off and we're down to the tar paper you can tear off the tar paper if you want as you go i don't like to do that because if it's windy it little pieces blow all over the place and like today we're getting a mist and even though there is some holes leaving the tar paper on will give you some protection in the meantime but the next step we gotta pull all the nails so any nails that didn't come out with the shingles you're gonna wanna pull you can use the ripper or a hammer pry bar and pull all the nails you can pound all the nails through but it makes it harder to peel up the tar paper so that's your next step [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right you see there we got all the nails pulled i'm sure we missed a couple you always will like right there's a couple that we missed that's okay then we just rolled up the tar paper got that off and then um there's a couple rotten spots that we need to repair like one right there so we're gonna pull up the sheets that need to be replaced and then we need to look for spots like this on the edge this plywood's fine but these need to be re-nailed and uh we're gonna get the framing gun out and put some nails in a lot of these seams are like that not all of them but a lot of them you can see a little bit loose don't you catch a cat like what a scoop i would call that a professional professional job there especially anything really really what'd you get half inch this is it's 7 16. [Applause] i don't know if the other stuff's 3 8 or what it is it's pretty good damn close yeah usually don't put less than 7 16 on [Applause] we need the plywood shrinker i'm getting it [Applause] all right now i gotta pull it back up with the mage clips in there all right what needs to be nailed here [Music] some [Music] a couple of them all right so we're done tearing off we have all the tar paper off we pulled all the nails um we know that our sheeting is all good any of the loose parts of the sheeting we've nailed the next part is going to be our ice and water shield and our tar paper so we're going to start with ice and water shield here we're going to do two rows that's code in our area for ice and water shield we have to go three feet past the inside wall of the house or outside wall of the house so we're going to do two rows and then uh one thing that's kind of controversial in roofing is does the ice and water shield go on before or after the gutter apron now i don't think there's really a wrong way to do it but in my opinion the right way to do it is to go over the gutter apron the reason for this is is this little section when we go over won't have ice and water shield on it but if we put the ice and water shield on underneath the uh the gutter apron and then put the gutter apron over the top if water gets behind there in theory the water would go down behind the edge and what it's going to do is get behind your fascia and rot out your fascia board so it's my belief that with ice and water shield and it's just basic simple water flow that the ice and water shield goes over the edge that way if and when water gets underneath the shingles and onto the ice and water shield it will go over the edge and into the gutter like it's designed so that's what we're gonna do now there's lots of ways to do ice and water shield it's not super hot it's like 70 degrees right now and it's not super sunny but this stuff can be a pain in the butt to install so what i do is i take the roll and there's two plastic parts and i get it into position like this i'm gonna hold it about a half of an inch up on the edge and then we're just gonna staple we're just gonna put uh like six staples in one corner so we're gonna take the paper we're just gonna roll this out now on really hot day this stuff will stick very very fast so you got to be careful i'm going to roll it out about 10 feet and you can see it's already sticking i'm going to straighten it out then we're going to go through and staple it and you can staple i guess as much or as little as you want we're going to shingle this right away so we're not worried about wind taking it but if you're doing it overnight you're definitely going to want to staple it pretty well in theory you're supposed to peel this and this is just your lap seam um we're gonna run another row of ice and water over the top of it and uh that'll be it for the ice and water now one thing you got to be really careful of and one thing that i stress on all my jobs is that we run the paper extremely straight and the reason for that is is because when i'm shingling i very very rarely snap lines i use my tar paper and my ice and water shield to keep my shingles straight i'll kind of explain that now with the ice and water shield at least this kind we don't have any lines on it other than the seams but on the paper i'll show you what i mean and why it's important to keep it straight we also really want to try to avoid any wrinkles especially in the ice and water shield because it'll actually show through on your shingles all right the next part is our synthetic felt and that's what we have here there's many different varieties of it you can use 15 pound and 30 pound felt really most professional roofers aren't using that anymore this stuff comes in a 10 square roll and it's lighter it's wider it's all around better and this is pretty much what most roofers are using nowadays again we're making very very carefully and being very sure that we're staying straight with our rows we're making sure that we're staying straight with our rows because all of these little dots and all of these lines and all of these letters are straight so we can actually run our shingles and know that we're staying straight at least to the tar paper at this point based on the lines and the lettering on the tar paper and when we get to the top i'll show you we have bundles up there now so it'll be a little bit we'll have to wait for our last row but when we get to the top i'll show you how i guarantee that i'm straight every single time when it my shingles get to the ridge well now we've done i guess really this pretty simple part we've torn it off we've made sure our plywood's good we've got it weatherproof with our ice and water shield and our synthetic tar paper the next thing we're going to do we didn't happen to do gutter apron on this job but gutter apron is going to go on a lot like the d edge this is d edge here this is pretty standard pretty standard stuff this is your standard roof edge now this is going to go on over the top of the paper that's the way that it's designed and supposed to be we're lucky on this bottom end down here by the gutter it butts perfectly into the gutter and we don't have to cut it now if you have a steeper pitch or you don't have a gutter you may have to do some trimming and angle the bottom of that piece so that it lines up down there and then you can see these two little beads right here we want a nail right in between those and what these are designed to do is if water gets in here it ideally hits that little rib and runs down so we're gonna nail this you can nail this as much or as little as you want i would recommend you nail it about every foot to 16 inches and we're gonna nail this piece pulling it tight to the fascia and we're just gonna nail that and then we'll have to add a piece up here to meet with the peak make sure that you're overlapping um the piece now shingling this is the part as a professional rougher everyone gets this wrong except for professional roofers it's very rare that a do-it-yourselfer does this right [Music] first things first we have our starter shingle and what this i'll show you in a second but what this is designed to do is to hold down the bottom uh shingle basically so we're going to run this i'm giving it a little bit of an overlap so i'm holding it over the gutter apron here about 3 8 of an inch we're going to nail on the end and we're going to go about every foot we're going to have a nail and the reason why we do that is because we're going to have a seam here and we do not want a nail to be anywhere near this seam now if you're four nailing five nailing six nailing the idea is the same so one mistake i see a lot of guys do is they'll use starter shingle and they'll start their first course to shingle like that well here you have your keyway and this starter shingle is basically useless if you do it that way so we want to hold this back six inches we want every offset to be six inches we're going to nail in the tar line in the common bond here we're going to skip a foot and you can kind of see my nail placement there then our next shingle will go here so seeing as you can pre-cut these i don't um i cut mine straight with the edge a lot of guys put starter on the edge i think that's the dumbest thing in the world um that's why you have d edge d edge sticks over a half of an inch or three eighths of an inch from the edge and people say that you need starter and you hang it another 3 8 or whatever over the edge i think that's the dumbest thing in the world but who am i i'm just a roofer i don't use i don't use gable starter just me you guys can do it if you want i think it's a scam trying to get more money out of us so six inches um this knife is about seven inches you can use your knife you can space it you want it roughly six six inches that's about six inches you can have seven you could do five your nail placement is super key we do not want a nail anywhere near this seam so when we nail we're always on the leading edge going to have one about an inch from the end we're going to skip about a foot and over here you can put as many nails and space them basically wherever you want because that next shingle is going to cover it and come to about right here so there we have our 12 inch piece i'll show you how i use those if you have nice straight cuts and you're cutting on this d edge your straight should be pretty your cup should be pretty straight nail that one on the edge go over about a foot and then we don't want to nail too close to this edge because it'll actually show come through the gutter apron or the d edge so if you do this right i've been doing this a long time so i've got pretty good at it and these pieces no waste these are my next guys we're just gonna keep on going just like that [Music] [Music] and that's your first start to the stair step now we're going to get into full shingles [Music] we want to nail our starter just like a shingle and every one of these shingles now full shingles is going to be nailed the exact same like i said you guys can five six nail four nil you guys can do however you want if you have any questions what your manufacturer wants and what you should do read the bundle it's as simple as reading the bundle the bundle tells you exactly what you should do [Music] so we're just butting these up and every one of these is the same at least the full ones [Music] [Music] another thing that's really really important and i i run into it all the time is over pressured and under pressured nails let me see that quick [Music] i'm gonna show you this is perfect see how it didn't break the mat on the shingle all of these you also want to avoid nailing when the gun is not flat the gun needs to be like this now i'm going to show you you can adjust the standoff on a boss stitch and i'm sure other nail guns so now i have this set where it's going to blow through the shingle ideally and i'm going to show you watch [Music] and i'll see how that blew through the mat and actually broke it look at how easy that pulls out okay we do not want that we also do not want [Music] i don't know if i can even do it [Music] basically we don't want those sticking out this one is not quite flush um that's gonna eventually wear through the shingle the shingle above here it's gonna wear through the shingle or it's gonna not allow this shingle that goes over here to properly tar down and seal down this is one of the biggest mistakes i see people make even professionals i see it all the time and shingles blow off because if these nails are not placed right and properly nailed i guess you're going to lose all your power to hold the shingle the other thing i see a lot is high nails okay um there's a common bond in a shingle a laminated shingle architectural shingle there's actually two layers so there's a common bond right here and it's about on atlas they actually have an improved common bond it's about an inch and a half so on a steeper roof if you do not get into this common bond these will end up sliding out on you the other thing when you're going through the common bond is you're going through the top of this lower shingle so if you're putting four nails you're actually getting eight if you're putting five you're actually getting ten if you're doing six you're actually getting 12 per shingle so it's going through the common bond and it is getting the top of this shingle it's very very important that these the pressure is right the spacing is right and the height you need to be nailing in this nailing zone a lot of shingles nowadays have very obvious nailing zones this being one of them you can obviously see you want to nail in this inch and a half tar strip right here very very important now we've gotten our first i guess um run i call it a stair step but you can call it whatever you want and now we're back where we have our six inch piece here and a full one now we can start with a full shingle and again being very mindful that we do not have a nail anywhere near this keyway here so then this first one we're going to do five nails just like that well i forgot to adjust my pressure the best hammer i've ever bought and we're just gonna continue that process okay we're gonna give a six inch we're gonna hang six inches off on that side and we're gonna do the same thing until we reach the peak maintaining roughly a six inch offset the entire way all the way up so this should be six inches on every single one when you run out of room you go back to the bottom start over once you reach the peak then you just start running now this is what i'm saying if you guys want to snap lines you can i run everything off of the tar paper so when i get i really if you're not experienced at this and if you're doing three tabs if you're shingling with three tabs this is a lot harder but when i get up into here i'm mindful as i go every single course or several courses that i'm staying straight if i get a little bit crooked down here it's not that big of a deal where you're really going to notice that you're crooked is at the ridge so we want to make sure when we get to the ridge 100 percent that we are straight you'll be able to see like this course for example i know that i have just a little bit of these bullseyes showing i'm going to keep that in mind as i run all the way across the roof i'm going to take several mental notes in certain spots this might be one of them and then on the top of this row of paper i'll take another mental note and i know that you know every six rows i have something that i know is going to maintain and stay straight [Music] so even this one see i'm at the bottom of these bowls eyes [Music] and there's so many things that you can follow on this paper like i said now you know you're in the middle of the b and the h and the e it's pretty simple to know it's not all lines but these letters are all essentially lines that's basically it we're going to continue that all the way across and rough this some gun [Music] all right well you guys got to see a time lapse of us shingling there and when you're finishing off your ends it's pretty much the same you know you're going to run a full shingle cut it flush with the edge um the one thing i was talking about with the tar paper is i always peek my tar paper so like this row for example we ran the very top edge up to the peak on this one we ran this black line all the way across the peak and what that's going to allow you to do when you're shingling is if your tar paper below this top row gets a little bit squirrely and your shingles maybe aren't perfectly straight when you get to this point you know 100 percent that the tar paper is straight to the ridge up here so if your shingles are following this paper even if your shingles may or may not be crooked they're going to end up straight on the ridge and you can kind of see here um i have about a two inch gap here and if you look down i got about a two inch gap there's a little bit of a wave right there um but we'll be able to take all that out as we go up to the top now as far as the boots like this the install of the boot and our pod vents the ridge shingles all that kind of stuff um i have videos on my channel about all of that kind of stuff so go and check those out if you're interested in that um as far as doing valleys and ridge vent and all sorts of stuff like that i have a video for it um so i hope you guys like this video that's the end check out these videos over here or this video up here my roofing playlist over here subscribe if you haven't hit the like button if i helped you out and i will see you on the next one

Channel: Life's Apprentice

Views: 250,899

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Id: PioKr-pyR7k

Length: 28min 14sec (1694 seconds)

Published: Wed Jun 15 2022