How To Install Roof Shingles - BEGINNERS Step-by-Step GUIDE

in this video I'm going to show you how to install roof shingles so we're going to be installing the drip edge we're going to be installing the starter strip we're going to be installing ice and water shield and a whole lot more and if you're new this channel my name is Josh this is all about DIY to save a ton of money so be sure to subscribe ring that Bell so you get notification airtime release new video and Hammer that like button four minutes all I ask for return for making this video so we've got a lot of shingles to do today so let's get started before installing the shingles on the roof I must first cover the roof in what's called roofing underlayment and you can get this in synthetic which that's what this is or you can get it in tar paper or some people call it felt paper and you can get the tar paper in number weight 15 or number weight 30. if you do use tar paper I recommend number 30 tar paper it holds up way better under windy conditions what I like about synthetic roofing underlayment is that it's much more lightweight for the amount of area this covers this covers a thousand square feet and it's as you can see not very heavy and easier to work with and also so it tends to hold up much better over time and it tends to hold up better under windy conditions compared to the tar paper so I recommend synthetic roofing underlayment and to secure the underlayment I'm going to be using a cap stapler and this is made by Hitachi which the newer name is the Metabo which it's the same thing it's under a different name and I like this because you got to put in a lot of cap nails in order to hold the underlayment down to the roof and with this tool it goes much quicker but if you're doing a DIY project and you don't want to purchase this tool I understand because it's kind of expensive and you can get away with using just standard cap nails this is what the cap nails look like up close as you can see it's a ring shank nail with a cap on the end of it and it allows more surface area to hold the tar paper or Roofing paper down so now that you know your options for under alignment let's go install this stuff I'm now going to install the first row of underlayment and I'd like to let you know typically I would put ice and water Shield which I will be putting that on this roof sheathing but I didn't have any locally available and it's coming with my shingles but the same process goes for installing the underlayment you just first roll it out and then go flush with the end of your roof and overhang actually just a little bit about a quarter inch and a quarter inch below because this will shrink really slightly but that's enough that you want to keep it inwards so I'm going to slide this out first and the cool part about this stuff as you can see there's little crosshairs where each nail goes and then at the bottom as you can see you put more nails so I'm just going to take my stapler and hit each one of those holes and the main thing with this stuff is running it Square so I got one locked in this bottom here so I'm going to roll it out a little bit and then pull it down to the edge of the roof all right so now that we're started I'm just going to hit a nail in each one of those crosshairs and then just continue that across the whole roof in order to reload this gun it first takes Staples up in to the magazine so I'm first going to place Staples right in here like so and then I place the Caps into the Reel right here so I'll just lay the Caps like that and then just feed it right up into until it gets the to the head of the stapler and then we're going to shut it and if you're wondering how this works the staple goes through the end of the cap into the underlayment foreign and as you can see there's a line going right across the top that's where the next row of underlayment overlaps then we'll nail that overlap and just continue that and roll it out across the whole roof just as you could imagine the first row of the roof paper is the hardest because you don't have anywhere to stand and I do set up a scaffolding later on this video to do the first row of shingles but that's just something to keep in mind when you're starting your project [Music] oh [Music] I just wanted to go over a little bit about safety I try to wear safety equipment while I'm up on a roof you'll see me wearing this harness for the most part and also when I'm up on a scaffold and if you're not comfortable working on a scaffold if you're not comfortable working on a roof or off a ladder definitely do not do anything that you see in this video because I've done this for several years and know how to do so so if you do not feel comfortable doing any of the stuff that you see me doing do not do this and hire a professional we installed the synthetic roof paper on about a week ago we had to wait for shingles so that's why we installed this bottom row with the felt paper but we're going to take off part of it in order to install this ice and water Shield it's recommended that your first row be the ice and water Shields that way protects against ice and water obviously so if you put this up here it's going to go about this hop on the roof we want to make sure we have a three or four inch overhang with the synthetic roof paper so wherever it hits up here where it's going to come down and rip off that bottom row of felt paper in order to install the ice and water Shield [Music] I know you might be thinking it was a waste of material to put the synthetic roof paper if I'm just pulling it off but it protected the roof really well when I was waiting for the shingles to be delivered [Music] ice and water Shield is sticky on the bottom it's going to stick right to that Plywood And as you can see it's like a big piece of tape so all you got to do is peel that off it's going to stick right to the roof very nice setup so let's get started with it all right so we're first going to put it right over here next to the edge of the roof and make sure you lift up the felt paper that it goes underneath of it so like so and then we're going to come down flush with the end of the roof here now I'm going to peel back this tape and it's going to stick right to the roof and now that we've got it started I'm going to peel back this and roll it at the same time and again keeping it flush with the bottom of the roof so I roll it a little ways and then Square it up with the roof and then pull more of the plastic off of it [Music] and now we pull the top piece of tape off of the ice and water Shield I'm now going to take my cap nailer and nail where the synthetic roof paper overlaps the ice and water Shield next I got to install the drip edge and to install the drip edge and the shingles I'm going to be using this coil nailer some people call it a roofing nailer but this is going to be the key to getting the job done much quicker than using your standard Hammer with roofing nails trick so if you've got a lot of shingles to do this is worth every penny here's a roll of coil Nails up close as you can see they're galvanized and here's the rubber band holding them together and then if you take a look they have a 3 8 inch head on the end of them which is the minimum for installing the shingle and these are inch and a quarter deep and I just want to show you what the spool looked like if you have not seen it before now this is going to be for the new roof now in some places you can actually shingle right over an old shingled roof but if you do that you're going to definitely get longer nails if you're allowed to do that wherever you're going to be doing that roof and a little trick to these coil Nails you've got to put them down your nail bag what I like to do is I'll take them and put put them together with the pointy ends going together like so so it's smooth on each end and then put it down in my nail bag so that way it's not sticking to the side of your nail bag and keeps them nice and tight and in order to load the nail gun very simple in every make and model is going to be different compared to some others so you simply just flip open this top and bottom it's going to open up the inside of the nail gun like so and then you take your coil nails and you're simply going to pull the rubber band off of them which most of them are held together by rubber bands and then after you do that you're going to go ahead and unroll unspool some of the nails here's the coil nailer magazine and then it opens up like so and this opens up the head like so the nails as you can see just fish right up into the head and it clipped shut then the magazine closes the house is the nails and this obviously hooks your air compressor running at about 100 PSI 110 around that and depends on how hot it is sometimes you gotta adjust your pressure so your nails don't shoot through your shingles if you notice that your nails are shooting through the shingle and you already adjust the pressure you can adjust the depth gauge here so on this gun in order to adjust the depth gauge there's a little dial right under here so as you turn it as you can see if you twist it this way it pushes the head out so whenever you shoot the nail in it's not going to shoot as deep which will keep you from shooting the nail all the way through the shingle if it gets too hot and vice versa if you want to dial it back to where it was when you push the head down it's going to go deeper so that's just something to keep in mind when you're installing your shingles so now I'm going to show you the tools you'll need to install the drip edge and now just a little bit about drip edge oftentimes it comes in this size the top will measure about two and a quarter typically a little over two and a quarter then the bottom face is going to be about an inch so you're just going to Simply nail in this top part onto the roof around the whole premium meter which I'm going to show you that here in just a minute and then you're going to nail this to your fascia after you install your fascia board also the drip edge typically comes in 10 foot pieces so you want to keep that in mind when you go to order your drip edge and now with that being said the tools you'll need to install it is your roofing nailer or coil nailer or if you go with the hammer and nails that's fine too a hammer and then we got a speed square and the speed square is going to be used to just cut straight lines on the drip edge and then you got your tape measure and pencil obviously and I like to cut my drip edge using what are called 10 Snips this will cut right through that aluminum facial no problem so I'm going to get up on the roof and show you how to install it I'm now going to install the first piece of drip edge and this is going to go underneath that ice and water Shield so I'm going to line the end up with the end of The Rake so the rake just so you know is the overhang that's going off the Gable side now I'm going to lift it up and slide it right under there like so just like you see there now I'm going to come out here and feel the edge make sure I'm at the end of the sub fascia board and now we want to make sure that our front is ever hanging our sub fascia properly to where when you press in it's nice and square with the roof and the fascia then once you got it into place we'll shoot a nail about every 12 inches in through the ice and water shield and into the drip edge I would like to add that you can install the ice and water Shield after you install the drip edge which actually might work out better in most cases as you can see the drip edge is flush with the end of The Rake just like so and we are sitting nice and flat against the sub fascia so that's what you want now to continue this run all we got to do is slide our next piece about an inch inch and a half overlap onto the one we just installed so now we do the same process as far as going up under the ice and water Shield I like to use the back of my hammer to get it to overlap each other well now I'm going to place a nail right where the overlap then do the same process across the rest of this till we get to the end of the roof foreign to finish up the Run of drip edge I'm just going to measure off the rake and then measure an inch and a half past the existing drip edge already installed then I'm going to mark it which was 85 and a quarter in this case and then I'm going to use my speed square to Mark a straight line and then after I Mark the straight line I'm going to take my 10 Snips in order to cut straight down those lines and make a nice straight cut we don't have to cut any angles or anything special here just a simple straight cut and then we're going to install it with the inch and a half overlap just like we did all the other pieces of drip edge and then nail it on [Music] thank you we're now going to install the rake Edge when I plug in my air hose you're going to hear the hissing sound just has a little air leak but we simply just line it up flush the edge of the front of the drip edge and same idea we just let our pizza ever hangs go right over on and touch the sub fascia or if you have fascia board that's already finished you touch that but right now the woods called subfacial because it ain't wrapped yet so now as you can see I'm flush with the overhang right there now I'm going to tack a nail right here then I'm going to come up here as far as I can reach and then right there feels about right so I'm going to attack a nail there nail it every one foot and now for this detail we're just going to cut it with the reveal of the drip edge and then fold it over so as you can see right here all I gotta do is take my 10 Snips and cut right with the reveal of the fascia or sorry the drip edge and it folds right over like so then that's going to be water tight especially once we put our facial on and nail this when you're installing the rake Edge and get up to the peak I'm going to show you how to cut this in order to form to the very peak of the roof let's say once you get your measurement and let's say right here is where the peak of the roof is going to hit the first thing we need to do is just make a little straight line right across the very peak of the roof right here and then right here we know we need a 7 12 pitch in this case because that's the pitch of the roof and if you are not doing a subtitle let's say you're doing a 512 you do a 5 12 here I just take my speed square and right here is the pivot point and all I got to do is line it up with that Peak and then pivot till I get a 712 on the common and let's say I'm at a 512 on my roof then we'd pivot over to a 512 but this roof is a 712 so I'm going to hold it right here at the seven and then make a mark on the drip edge or rake Edge I should say so now I just gotta cut right here using my 10 snips and then on this side I'm going to cut down that straight line and now I'm just going to bend it like so and as you can see that's what we're going to have on the peak of our roof and that looks really good 77 so I just got my measurement at an inch and a half to it to get up to the peak it is a little more challenging to cut the drip edge while standing without the assistance of a workbench but with a little practice you can get very efficient at it now I'm just going to hold it right onto the peak here the section of drip edge that I'm nailing here now it did not nail the very end because I need to allow an area to slide the drip edge that's coming up the rake on the other side of the roof all right tap it together just like the drip edge at the bottom and nail it every 12 inches now that all the drip edge is installed on this side of the roof we can now start installing what's called starter strip oftentimes it comes in two pieces like this you just gotta break it in half like so and it breaks really easy and I try not to get this sticky part this little glue Edge right here this is what SEALs to the shingle try not to get that too dirty when you break them apart because it needs to stick to the shingle like I just said it rips right apart like so so there's one starter here's another starter and if you're wondering the size of these starters these are seven and three quarter wide by 39 and a quarter inch long and we're going to put this all along the edge everywhere where we put the drip edge before I put the starter strip over the eave side I'm going to put the starter strip up the rake side first in order to do so I want a half inch overhang so if that's what I want I need to take a half inch off that 7 and three quarter inch Mark so I need to go seven and a quarter inch over from the bottom and the top first so he's marking a seven and a quarter inch down there and I'm going to Mark a seven and one quarter inch up here I'm now going to take a chalk line and choke a line from the bottom to the top and the biggest reason why I like to put starter on the rake side is because it gives you the Perfect Look From Below looking nice and straight with your shingle Edge all right now I'm going to place the starter strips with the glue side facing out towards the drip edge or rake Edge and our first one we're going to start with a three-quarter inch everhang because we want a three quarter inch overhang on our Eaves Edge and you can have anywhere from a quarter or three quarter inch overhang so depends on what you want and we place a nail anywhere back behind this glue strip we don't want to put a nail anywhere past that obviously because you're going to be almost off the roof but that glue is going to help seal the edge of the shingles now I'm going to place five Nails in the starter strip all right now I'm going to finish the rest of these once again my shingles up to here but for now we're going to jump on the eve and do the overhang there before the starter gets installed on this eave side we got a chalk lunge just like we did on the rake side now like I said we want a three quarter inch overhang so we got to come here in the middle measure up seven inches and we're going to chalk a line from the middle to the end because it's such a long span your chalk line will sag so I'm going to measure it up seven inches on this side as well and we're going to choke a line here first [Music] as you can see we got a nice solid red line that go off of a four hour starter when it comes to installing your first starter I'd like to show you that the starter strip here is the same length as the shingle so you're going to have to cut one down in order to begin so you either got to cut your starter down or add one to it or you either got to cut your shingle down and add a piece to it either or so let's say you start with a small piece of starter first it's going to give you this pattern and then when you start with the full shingle as you can see it's not going to be on a break like there is here down here there won't be a break so you don't have to worry about leaking which is very important or vice versa if you start with a full shingle so you can start with a starter that is full or sorry not a full shingle but if you start with a starter shingle let's say this then it'll break out like so in your overlap will be breaking here and you won't have a nail in the way so to speak so you need to think about that when you start what I like to do is just cut down a little bit of my starter or add a piece to it either one in order to allow no nail to be exposed during the budding of the shingles now we just nail these on just like it did the rake Edge and we got to space our nails about every eight inches going across our starter strip [Music] all right and once you get the Rhythm down pretty simple just fold it break it we got two starters now just lay it right onto our red chalk line like you see here line it up nice and well make sure we pop a nail here on the end first and then we come over here on this side and move this one out of the way make sure we get on the line here looks good and now I'm just going to measure this one looks like we need to make it 19 and 3 8. in order to cut it all you got to do is use a utility knife and it'll cut through the shingle very easy especially if it's hot outside I'm going to use a speed square to make sure I cut it square and you want to make sure you cut from the back and not the front because the back doesn't have any asphalt on it with the Pebbles to where the back you can cut right through it and nail it on before I start installing the shingles I got to cut what are called starter shingles in order to cut those it all depends on the manufacturer of your shingle but these shingles are made by tamco and these are the Heritage line and the first thing I need to do is split apart the shingles that come together to where the glue strips are laying on the strips here so that they don't stick together for one so now that I got a shingle here I'm going to first cut 10 and 3 8 inches off of it and I'm just going to use a framing square to do so it's a very easy quick method so I'm going to take my knife in order to Mark the 10 and 3 8 and take my tape measure to measure it 10 and 3 8 and make a mark with my utility knife like so and now I'm just going to take my framing square and square right off the shingle preferably the side that's going to be exposed right here and we're going to cut this and the shingle will cut much easier when it's warm out now this 10 and 3 8 inch piece is going to act as the starter for my fifth row so we're going to keep this and then this piece that's left over is 29 inches long and this is going to act as the starter for my second row so now we got two of the starters cut using just one shingle which is a very nice system tamco came up with and now we're going to take another shingle here and we're going to cut it 16 and 3 8 inches off of it so we're going to pull off the edge 16 and 3 8 make them work with our utility knife and now I'm going to square right up the side of the shingle and cut right down that and here's the cool thing we got our starter for our fourth row right here and we also got the starter for our third row here this is a 23 inch piece left over that scrap so we're going to start with a 100 full shingle and so this method gives us five rows of starters with just cutting two shingles which is really cool so now that you know a little bit about cutting the starters again check with your manufacturer of your shingle because it might be totally different than this one but this seems to be a good method and if you're wondering these tamco shingles will give you a 5 and 5 8 inch exposure and what the exposure means is this much of the shingle that's exposed after they're installed so we're going to have this much exposed of the shingle after they're put on the roof so 5 and 5 8 inch exposure and I nailed them with the wind pattern so I put for high wind so I put six Nails in each one the standard nailing pattern is four nails but I like to go above and beyond and do the six Nails oftentimes shingles will have a common Bond and that is this white line that you see painted here this is where the next shingle will overlap and then as you can see there's glue grip here on the bottom of the shingle Tab and it's going to seal right to that common Bond and also an important thing to remember about the common Bond that's where the lapse of the shingles are joined together too so if you put a nail through here you have much more strength than if you nail it here and obviously ain't going to nail down here because that's where the exposed Edge or exposed part of the shingle is but you want to make sure you put a nail right through here where the common bond is for the very first row I'm going to start with a full shingle and all I got to do is line it up with the edge of our starter strips in order to place it down when you nail this you need to make sure you stay within an inch of the edge of the shingle on each side we're going that right on that common Bond you will notice the first nail I placed was actually back about two and a half inches that's because of the drip edge would have been in the way and I would have shot through it if I'd have done just an inch from The Edge that looks good and now I'm going to go ahead and show you the nailing pattern with the tape measure so I got to come over eight and a half inches and 16 inches from each Edge just so you can see what it looks like to be exact so right here and 16. and then over here we're going to come back the same way we're going to come back eight and a half and then 16. that's the nailing pattern I'm going to use because that's to ensure they don't get blown off during high winds and now that we started our first row we're going to jump to our second row and this is the starter for the second row this is the 29 inch one so if we take a measurement here as you can see we got 29 inches that's one we cut on the ground we're now going to line this up so that we have a 5 and 5 8 inch exposure here so I'm just going to show you with a tape measure but once we get rolling here we don't have to measure it obviously so right there is exactly five and five eighths and I'm going to line it up with our starter strip that looks good that looks good I'm going to tap a nail there right on the common Bond and I'm going to come over here again five and five eighths to be exact for the exposure tacky nail within an inch and then we're now going to go ahead and just eyeball the eight and a half I know I'm going slow here at first but I'll show you later in the video how to move much faster now we're going to start our third row lay it up there get our correct exposure and just so you're aware once get rolling with these if you just line the edges up up to where the overlap is here that will give you about the correct exposure so we'll do the first five runs without chalking lines that's what I do but do whatever is comfortable for you all right now our next row as you can see it's the same pattern over and over again when it comes to shingling and now we're at our fifth row which our last row before we got to cut more starters I now want to give you a video of the starter rows here up close as you can see here is our starter strip there is no nail right here in the seam that is exactly what you want no Nails in the seams if we come up here to our second row you can see we got nail here and it's in the common Bond and if we flip up the shingle as you can see there's no nail in the way same goes across all these if you flip them up there's not going to be a nail close to the seam you definitely don't want any nails that risk leaking that's going to be in the seam of where the rows are going or where the shingles are going to butt each other that's what you want as a good starter Row And now when it comes to running the rest of the row you simply just take a full shingle and keep going with all five rows at once until you get to the end and I'll meet you down there to explain what to do to get there all right [Music] now that we're at the end of the runs what we're going to need to do is cut each individual run in order to finish it and the very important thing to have is a piece of plywood that's about the same size as your shingle if not a little bigger and we're going to lay this right on the roof so we can safely cut the shingles without risk cutting the roof and it also it's important not to even cut up here where the felt paper is or the roofing paper because you don't want to cut through that either so very important and we're going to need a framing square in order to make straight lines of cut I'm going to go ahead and get the last measurements for these last rows and if you take a look we're measuring right to the end of the starter strip that ran up to the side which is the exact end of our run so we take a measurement here we got nine and an eighth to finish up this cut and then we got 19 and 5 8 finish up this one so I'm going to go ahead and write these down I'm now going to go ahead and take some shingles and just take the ones that we've been using as our full runs are Up on the Roof here and we're going to lay them so that when we cut that we cut the end that's going to be the finishing of the Run instead of out here in the middle it really doesn't matter but cosmetically if your Cut's not perfect you're going to see it here budding against the factory Edge so I like to try to keep factory Edge a factory Edge I'm going to lay it up here again to where I got to pull off this side in order to finish the run so our first measurement was the 9 and 1 8 so I'm going to go ahead and pull over then I'm going to take my utility knife and Mark nine and one eighth the utility knife works good because you can see your gouge in the shingle now I'm just going to take my framing square and square right off the shingle and cut that shingle right there we're going to line right up with our Mark we made and then take our utility knife and follow the framing square now that we got a scored line I'm just going to finish cutting that shingle so as you can see we'll shoot this one here to finish up that run so I'm just going to lay to the side here and cut my next one and now here on this next one I'm going to cut off the same shingle and this won't have a factory cut to factory cut because we just cut that one for that but we can simply use this with a cut on this side ain't going to bother anything at all and now when it comes to the scrap this is the piece that's left over after cutting my two runs here this as long as it's over eight inches long we can save it and actually use it in the middle of the runs if we have to to finish up so what I like to do is just save these for if I'm getting towards the end of the job and realizing I'm almost out of shingles I can use my cut pieces in order to finish up the roof but I try not to use these in the middle just because when you're running your shingle it's just a little more complicated to use these so I'll just save these for if I do need them later and now I'm going to finish installing these shingles and now we just continue doing this until we reach up to the last row that we finished here's a little tip the next one I got to put a full shingle on in order to make the cut so whenever you come into that instance which is going to be very often while you're running all your roof measure over the length of the shingle which is 39 and a quarter and see where it breaks so you know not to put a nail in that area when you nail this shingle on now as you can see on this last row I can use one of the scraps in order to finish up with no problem just got to cut it down a little bit so it's important to keep your scraps all right and that is how you finish up all the runs at the end of the roof now I simply got to keep repeating the process that you see in here as I go up the roof but when I hit this vent for my Plumbing stack I'm going to show you how to cut around that here's a little Tip since we have a overhang with the shingle and the drip edge now we can't put our ladder right up against the shingle obviously it'll smash them in so what we need to do is take two blocks two by fours or two by sixes and nail them right to the fascia so that way you'll step it out enough to put a ladder right up against the fascia you can get up and down the ladder onto the roof that way foreign now as you can see we're not hitting the shingles and it's a safe place to get up and down the roof without damaging the shingles Edge now I want to go over chalking lines for running the rows of shingles so if you noticed I did not chalk lines every run of the shingles and the reason why that is when you're dealing with these dimensional or architectural shingles like I'm installing here if you line them up like constructed they will typically run straight or very straight maybe not perfect but very straight now after running about five or six rows I don't care how straight you try to run them using the lining up method there's a little variation in the shingle that is going to start running off a little bit so it's very important that you measure down from the peak of the roof in three different spots with the length that I'm doing here three or four is fine I'll measure from the end and then measure from that end and then right in the center for from the peak of the truss down to the rows of shingles and measure how much of a difference there is so when I measured from here to here it was off just about an eighth to a quarter and then from the center to the end it was almost right on it might have been 16th to an eighth in some places but it was off just enough to for me to start chalking lines for my next row so what I'm going to do is measure down from the peak and give myself just a little bit difference the exposure was the five and five eighths but I'm actually going to measure down about five and a half so that way it takes out any of that variation that it was starting to run off again that's how I do it technically you want to follow your manufacturer's recommendation Bob's us instructing on how I like to run my shingles so let's go chalk some lines so you better understand what I was talking about as you can see there is a nail right here so so that nail is what I measure off of to see how straight my row is and it's right in the truss right here right in the peak as you can see it poking through the paper and now I'm going to measure right down from there and as you can see down to the bottom of the shingle we got about 111 and three-quarter heavy and now let's go check over here as you can see here's the nail here in the middle of the roof so I'm going to measure down from there and if we measure down as you can see we're running a little off right to there so with that being said it's starting to run off like I was just explaining so definitely chalk my line so here is the other end I'm going to measure down from here and as you can see it's running off a little bit 112 uh heavy as well it's not running off too much but we're going to go ahead and caulk our line so we're going to chalk the line for this row already put the starters on as you can see so in order to chalk it as you can see our exposure here is the 5 and 5 8 like it's supposed to be so all I got to do is measure up the 5 and 5 8 here so I know right there it's my reveal so I'm going to measure off the truss to see what that measurement is and my measurement's 93 and an eighth so that's the measurement I need to go with for the Middle where I was running off just a little bit so we want to go to 93 and an eighth is right here and then we'll come down to our end and do the same and I'm now going to tack a nail here to hook my truck one too our center now and we need to make sure everything's out of the way gonna hold right here on our chalk Corner hour mark we made and pull really tight and snap it and now do the other side the reason why I showed you how to find the difference and how to choke the lines to make your line straight it's because that's going to be how much you're going to expect to have a variation after you start running it on the chalk line so you can compensate by dropping your whole road down about a quarter inch or an eighth at a time but you can only do that if your starters are not started yet all right now as you can see we got a nice straight line to go off of to run our next row of shingles so now when we put our next shingle on we're going to use a red line and not do the method we were doing earlier from the bottom then we'll run the next five rows that way before I go any further up the roof with the shingle installation I'm going to install what's called a pipe boot and this is made by Odie and this goes up to a three inch pipe it's a flexible Center that requires no Caulking and as you can see when you push your pipe up through it'll seal right around the pipe with no problem so it does not require caulk around this side but as you can see there's little dimples here for nails so I'm going to show you how to install this before we get any further I like to figure out where my vent stack is going to come through the roof and stub the pipe up through before I do the shingle so I can install the boot properly so I don't have to wait to put shingles on after the Plumbing's done I'm almost ready to put the boot on to the pipe because the exposed Edge is going right up to that shingle and as you can see one more row before we can install the boot as you can see with the shingle butt up against the run it's going to have to be cut around this pipe so I'm going to mark it first with my utility knife thank you and now I'm just going to lay it up to the edge in order to know how deep I got to cut it so as you can see it needs cut about this deep right here and this doesn't have to be a perfect cut because it's going to be well under that boot I'm going to go ahead and place this shingle down I'm going to be using this leak stopper made by Blackjack and this is roof patches rubberized I like to use this underneath of my boots so I'm first going to slide this right over the pipe slide it right down to the roof and as you can see I'm going to run this blackjack right under this to seal it first I'm not going to slide that right over that shingle and we're going to make sure we're square with the shingle and work it right down into that sealant so as you can see it looks nice and square with the shingle I'm now going to use standard roofing nails and I'm not going to use the nail gun here because I don't want to risk damaging the flange now we drive a nail in each one of the dimples that you see around the flange [Music] as you can see there's a nail on each one of those dimples I'm now going to take sealant and place sealant over each one of the nails and I'm going to put sealant over these after I install the shingle around the edge I now got to cut the shingle to go around the boot when I cut this I want to stay about right here in order to allow a good seal around the boot as you can see I'm butt tight up against this row so I know where to mark it and as you can see I got to take about seven inches to get up around the boot I'm just going to take my framing square to make nice straight cuts here some people would just eyeball this but since I have my square up here I'm just going to cut it and I didn't go the whole seven inches yet because I might have to round that out for the boot as you can see we still got to go down that extra inch like I was talking about and I'm just going to round up around the pipe all right as you can see there's going to be another shingle that's going to go around the top Edge so that's a good place to start here so I'm going to go ahead and nail this shingle down now we're going to do our next single run and as you can see we got cut around the top of the boot same process all right as you can see we cut around the boot pretty nice now we gotta put it into place now in order to finish this up I'm going to lift up the shingle and just put some sealant right around where the shingle meets the boot now I'm going to press that down get that sealant in there really nice I'm now going to put a dab of sealant right over these front nails and that's all there is to installing the boot foreign our shingles as if there is no boot in the way another good thing to have the sealant on hand just in case you have a nail that's a little bit lower than it should be and also I like to tie a trash bag in the place up here to put all of my scraps in so they don't blow off the roof and get people's yards and make the neighbors mad another thing I think is important to know is that in this case it takes one two three bundles to make a square shingles some manufacturers have four bundles to make square but with this line it takes three bundles to make a square shingles I'm going to give you a rundown on how when I'm actually installing the shingles how I do it to make it much more efficient and as you can see by the stair step pattern already got several rows started here now when I grab the shingle I just go ahead and grab a handful about eight or so then I'll start up here at the top of the runs and then I undo the shingle like so so I don't have to do it while I'm running the shingle and if you notice the glue I'll face that out so I'll lay it on the roof to where the glue is facing out and then I'll grab my neck shingle and lay it in a manner and where the glue is facing out as well and that's overlapped where I can pick it up from this side and then I keep laying it out like that with the exposed side facing down because you don't want the shingles to get glued together especially if it's really hot out so I'll do that first foreign now as you can see all the shingles are laid out so I can easily grab them and install them I'm now going to grab the shingle the first one and start installing it right up in a stair step pattern now I'm going to show you the biggest tip when it comes to nailing these fast so as you can see we got this much of the shingle exposed here we got 10 inches of shingle exposed for the next step and now on this one we got about six and three eighths just like we did the starters when we cut them that's about how much is going to be exposed so we know when we nail our first snail in the field of the shingle we need to stay back about 13 inches plus in order to not have a nail right in this joint so we'll nail the ends of the shingles and then we nail one at 13 or so then we can nail heavily throughout the rest of the shingles so I'll show you here on this one so the first thing I'll do like I said I'll put my shingle down like so and I'll line it up over here and I'll put the bottom of it in line with the previous shingle and then I'll tack a nail here and I try to hold my gun like this and not like this because it's easier to hit on that common Bond holding the gun like so so I know I'm lined up here on this end and I'll come here and quickly line this end up with the bottom of the previous or the top of the previous rows Edge so like so and then I'll tack a nail here and then again here's the key coming back eyeballing about 13 inches in this case which is about here now I know I can put as many nails through here as I want without risking having one at a joint so as you can see that shingle is installed now when I put my next shingle down I'll reach up here and grab it off our ones we laid out now when I put this shingle down as you can see it's not going to have any nails here at the joint and it's about clear to here to that nail so we can quickly nail it without worrying about having a nail in the joint so watch as I go here I'm just going to line it up at the bottom attack a nail come over here line the bottoms up attack a nail here then come back and that shingle is good to go and just keep up that pattern if you have never done shingles before after your first day or two of doing them you'll definitely develop a pattern that works for you everybody's a little different if you search around in different videos everybody has their own style and techniques and also something very very important you need to make sure you check your local building codes to make sure there isn't any specific nailing pattern or any specific Roofing in general that you must install in shingles may or may not be an option so always check your local building codes before doing any DIY project now as you can see we got all of those done on that run and then I'll come back down here set my nail gun to where the next shingle is going to be installed and then I just repeat that process and laying it out and continuing the runs if you are fortunate enough to have a helper a good system would be to have your helper lay them out like I am doing here ahead of you and then you were him vice versa can go through and nail them down and then you can keep that system going and you can definitely rock out a roof in half the time of what it takes just one person so just keep that in mind if you have a big roof to do foreign [Music] once you get to the very top of the roof your last row of shingle that you see here needs cut with the sheathing and always just take my utility knife and run with the sheathing that's underneath and help guide the cut because you need to let your roof vent and if you're curious how that works your roof vents up from those vented soffit from below and goes up through the roof and comes out the roof vent and right here is a place where I do got to put sheathing this is the overhang that we build on the ground in the previous video on how to build a garage and now in order to finish this up I just got to put strips of sheathing to finish it and it's just two and a quarter inch pieces that are just tacked down in order to finish up the little bit of roof I have now shingled both sides of the roof and I'm now getting ready to finish up the last little bit of shingling before I do the caps when you get up to the peak like this as you can see I put nails about a half inch from the peak now I'm just going to cut this off and then continue that as you can see the buttoning up of the last full shingles is complete and now I'm ready to begin the venting and the Caps to finish off the roof now that we've reached the top of the roof we gotta talk about roof venting there is commonly two ways to vent your roof the most common is the roof ridge vent and that's what we're going to be installing today and another way you can do it and check your local building kits make sure you can do this is put in what's called a gable vent and you don't have to put a ridge vent on and you just put a gable vent it's just going to be a vent right in the peak of your Gable truss or gable roof if you've built a roof and it's going to vent through the top of the attic and take the air out that way and if you're wondering why do you even have to vent a roof well that's because you can get moisture and condensation and excessive heat heat is going to break down the shingles if you have a metal roof you don't worry about as much and the moisture will break down the sheathing that's underneath of the shingle so you definitely need to make sure you vent your roof so the vent that I got here here today is going to give you a more high def look it's actually going to stick up a little bit off the roof and you'll be able to notice it exceedingly from the bottom and they make rolls of ridge vent and stuff that's like a texture that will give a place for your cap to stick up off your shingle of your Ridge that allows you to vent that way but this is actually a rigid plastic so I definitely prefer this over the other ones and it also has a screen that's built into it to help stop bugs from entering into the top of the vent and also along with the venting we got to think about caps so here is a piece of cap and if you're wondering why it's so long it's because it breaks down the ends come off and this one breaks down into three pieces now you can also get shingles and cut them into caps but I always buy the Caps this way because it's much quicker and in my opinion gives a much better looking job so now that we know what we're going to cap the roof off with let's go install this stuff before I get up on the roof I'm going to go ahead and cut two of these down and leave the tar strip on one side then the decorative piece on another so I want to keep this tar strip to act as my starter strip so in order to do so all I gotta do is Mark like this on one side and then Mark it here on the other and then all I gotta do is turn it around and then I'm just going to take another one is a straight edge here I'm just going to hold it from Mark to mark now I'm just going to cut so we're going to keep this part that's for the decorative top and then we're going to have one here that has just the tar strip on it then we're going to do the same to another one because we're going to need two on this roof all right now we got two cap starters when it comes to installing the Caps you got to think about the prevailing winds in the area in which you're building so for instance the wind always blows from this Direction coming this way so we're going to want to start on this side of the roof so that there's less likely that wind will get up under the cap and pull it off if it's going with the direction of the wind so to speak so if we're running this way and the wind's blowing this way it'll go over the overlap instead of right against where they overlap so always keep that in mind because we got to install ridge vent from here back we're only going to run the cap starting from the end of the roof up to about here and then do the same on the other side of the roof so I'm going to begin by taking the tar strip here on the starter piece we cut and placing it right on the end of the roof now you want to make sure you're exactly Center of the top so you want to fold it over like that and as you can see we got an equal size on each end we're just going to line the end up like so and then we're going to place two Nails on each side of it foreign about like that now we take our first cap and as you can see this is the part that's going to be exposed this is part that goes in the back it's going to be covered up and do the same thing and always put two Nails about right here right behind that tar strip so that's our first cap and now we just got to continue the Caps overlap and do the same thing now we're just going to line our next cap up and this is the five and five eighths exposure just like the shingle so about right there and then we're going to hold that into place and then do the same thing just two nails I'm now at the area that's going to transition to the ridge vent so I'm going to stop there with those all right I'm now over here on the opposite end of the roof and we're going to do the same thing except I'm going to start from this side come out this way first going to get our starter strip put on foreign hits the roof and cut it off there now we're going to take that scrap piece that we cut off the starter now when I nailed this one I'm going to put four Nails in it on the top of it I'm going to hand drive one here because this nail went a little sideways here's the Blackjack that I used earlier in the video around that boot to tap on top of these nails and you want to make sure this is sealed really good because obviously that's a place to leak all right and that's all there is to finishing up the cap and obviously once gets warmer this will settle and seal down really well it's now time to install the ridge vent and I'm going to use this to chalk my first line and how I'm going to do it so I'm going to lay it into place here on the end to get my measurement so if we Mark right here as you can see I put the ridge vent to where is Center here on the end if we take a look we got a Mark or chocolate line right here and I use a red pencil so you can see it on the shingles so we know we need to chalk the line to right here now I'm going to do that on the end and then measure it to what it needs to be in the center all right so as you can see that's going to be our mark on the end of the roof here and I'm going to transfer that Mark to here to measure down from the truss if we measure down from the truss we got six and three eighths heavy now I gotta Mark that in the center all right right here's about Center measure down 6 and 3 8 heavy about right there and now I'm just going to put a nail here this is something if you had a helper to do I would but I don't so I'm going to use this to hold the nails and I'll have to caulk over that after I chalk the line now I'm going to hook my chocolate onto that nail and pull to the marks to each end and chalk it [Music] it's now time to nail the vent on oftentimes these vents come with nails just for the vents themselves as you can see their Rings shank nails so they will hold very well and I'm going to measure over 10 inches over from the end of the roof in order to start mine and take note right here this end is meant to be overlapped over top of the other one so I'm going to start from this end and work that way and if you look here on this side this end has a Groove in order for the next one to overlap just keep that in mind and I would Gap this just a little bit in order to allow for expansion before we nail this on we need to make sure we cut this out because that's obviously not going to vent so I'm going to go ahead and just rip this out of here another method to finishing up the peak of a roof would be to run the sheathing right up to the peak of the truss and then shingle right up to the peak of the roof and then after you do that you just take a skill saw and then cut the sheeting and the shingles at the same time but me personally I felt like it's a much more of a hassle to do it that way I'd rather go ahead and pre-cut everything before I have to do that now I'm going to measure over 12 inches as my starting point I'm now going to line the bottom edge with that chalk line and drive a nail right in the holes that are already pre-drilled in the roof vent come down here I'm going to square it up with that line and then put a nail in each one of the holes that you see across the bottom now I'm going to go the other side and nail it down I found it works best to nail off the one side totally before going to the other side of the roof and nailing off the other side of the vent now our next one we want to make sure we have the end without a lip on it it's going to overlap the lip of the other one thank you and always allow a little Gap just for expansion not much just a little bit [Music] if you're wondering why they send Nails instead of nailing this down with a nail gun it's simply because you can shoot through this because it's just plastic if you're using a nail gun so you definitely want to use a hammer and nail and use the nails that they provide and they're also ring Shanks so they won't pull out as easy all right now just continue that pattern I'm now going to place caps on the ridge vent in order to cap this I gotta cut a starter off one of the Caps first just like we did on the actual roof in order to install the Caps onto the ridge vent the supplier of the ridge vents supplied the nails in order to install them as you can see they're the long ring shank nails just like we used for the ridge vent so we're going to use those to install the Caps as well so I'm just going to Center that up on top of the ridge vent as you can see there is a area here for the nails that's the nailing strip so I'm going to place a nail right here and like I mentioned earlier you want to hand nail the caps on on top of the ridge because it is the plastic underneath and you can nail right through it if you're not careful using a nail gun I'm now going to place my cap right up to that and we're just going to Center that on top of the ridge as well so Center the center and then nail it and just keep doing that across the whole ridge vent [Music] [Music] I've now reached the end of the ridge vent with the Caps I now got to finish this end it's going to be similar to how we did it before I'm first going to measure this and cut it to length so about eight and a quarter I'm now going to install this just like you would any other cap I'm now going to take the scrap that we cut off the starter earlier and use that to cut down to go over those two nails and then nail this to that and first I'm going to lay it up there and get a length now as you can see that's going to go right over this like that but first I'm going to put some sealant on the bottom of this now I'm going to place that right down to where it belongs now I'm going to finish this up by putting two nails and then put sealant over that and that's all there is to finishing up the caps on top of the Ridge and another little place where I like to put sealant is right where the ridge meets right under on top of those caps just for a little extra security that's all there is to the ridge vent and it turned out really nice and the whole roof looks really good I'd like to show you how I put on this safety harness that I've been wearing in this video and this safety harness came in this five gallon bucket and came with the rope and the attachments and everything and if you'd like to purchase this I'll put a link in the description below or if you just want to check it out and see what all is included and let me show you how I put it on the first thing I do to put this on I'll grab it from the back straps like this that go around your shoulder and as you can see the bottom Loops are for each foot so I'm going to lay it on the ground like so and then I'm going to just put this right over this leg and then put this Loop right over this leg and then once I get that started I just work it right up my legs like so and then I just reach around and grab the strap like this and it goes right on almost like suspenders than the other side and these have adjustable leg straps right here that you can see and also you can detach from here as well so just like so but I rarely ever detach this I just slip it right over my leg because why add extra work we don't have to and then the chest Mount or the chest strap I should say Just Clips in like this and it holds right like so and then the rope's going to attach right here on the back on that metal Loop so let me show you how I clip it on here's the harness that Clips onto the back so I always put this on before I start doing any of the shingles and also here is the bracket that hooks to the roof as you can see we got screws going right down through a joist or should I say the truss is running right through here and on this side as well we got it hooked or screwed down right to the truss so really important that you have that secured really well and then obviously here's all the Rope I think this rope is 50 foot and this part here I'll leave the wrap on it because that X is the shock absorber so if you've got forbid do fall this will unravel and unthread from here and pull through that plastic and it allows you to absorb the shock in order to hook this to my back I just open up the hook like this then reach around my back and then hook it right to that metal Loop then I'm nice and secure this mechanism is attached to your harness and you can adjust the length of the rope in which the tension would hit by squeezing it and sliding the Rope up and down when it comes to calculating how many shingles you need for your roof you're going to have to know how big a square is typically you order shingles and siding by the square and I'm going to show you how big that actually is technically it's 10 foot by 10 foot square so it gives you a hundred square feet so I'm going to show you on the wall how big that actually is so if we pull off the edge of this wall this is going to take you over to 10 feet right about here so right here's the edge of 10 foot so just imagine a vertical line going clear up to this truss so about right here is about the top of it clear down to the concrete so that'd be a whole square of shingle right there so again it's a hundred square feet so remember that when you're calculating your square footage of your roof that it's going to be in the squares when you order it I'd now like to go over the breakdown on how much it costs to do this roof it cost me three thousand eight hundred thirty four dollars and 84 cents in order to buy all the material and that's not counting the felt paper or the synthetic roof paper that came with my framing material but it's just a little added expense there but not much and as far as how much time it took it took me five days one day I had help setting up a scaffolding getting started off of it like you see in the video then the four days was really just me me doing it up on the roof myself and that amount of time includes the time I took out of my day to make the video while I was doing the shingle roof if you would like to see how I'm going to install these windows and doors that you see here behind me check out this video it'll help you out foreign

Channel: The Excellent Laborer

Views: 485,460

Keywords: how to install shingles, how to install roof shingles, roof shingles, how to shingle a roof, how to install asphalt shingles, how to shingle, shingles, how to install shingles on a roof, how to install a new roof, how to install shed roof, how to roof, how to install, roofing shingles, how to install roofing, shingle installation, how to install asphalt shingles on a shed roof, installing shingles, asphalt shingles, roof, roof shingle, shingle

Id: p0VM9L-0SYE

Length: 69min 36sec (4176 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 23 2023