How To Roll On Primer - Painting a Car with OPTIFLOW Roll On Paint System - Eastwood

you ask any professional painter what it takes to achieve that perfect mirror like show quality finish they're gonna tell you it's all in the prep work that's what the Optive flow system allows you to achieve at home the perfect foundation saving you thousands you just saved yourself a boatload of money at a body shop the vehicle is now paint ready for a single-stage base clear whatever you want you're ready to take this to the next step mark Robideau here what you see behind me is a 1992 Camaro and primer what if I told you we didn't spray that on but we've rolled it on follow along to see how you two can achieve these professional results at home [Music] so what is OP the flow well let me tell you it's a two-component epoxy and urethane priming system formulated to be roll applied to the vehicle it's not for everybody it's for the guy that doesn't own spray equipment doesn't have the place or doesn't want to spray the vehicle it now gives him the option to achieve professional priming system on the vehicle it's very easy to achieve these results now let me walk you through the steps [Music] [Music] first step in process is going to remove all your existing components bumpers trim door handles mirrors etc once you have that done you want to strip the existing coating notice options here you can abrasive last chemical strip or mechanical we chose to go the mechanical route we used our SCT and a da with some abrasive paper on it to remove the existing coating [Music] so once you've stripped the vehicle of the existing coding go ahead and wipe it down with some pre or a high quality cleaner to remove any surface contaminants or grease or oils from your hands then we're going to move one prep the door jambs this can easily be done with scotch brake pads scuff until you have no longer any gloss if there's areas where there's chips feather them out if you need to a little bit of filler and go ahead and apply two coats of the epoxy primer this can actually has the activator inside of it so you go ahead and you'll mix that shake it spray it just like an aerosol can go ahead and apply your two coats to each door jamb [Music] once the door jams are complete we're gonna go ahead apply one coat of epoxy that's just a bare metal sealer and then we're gonna start the bodywork portion of this now the bodywork is gonna take about 80% of your time during any paint job whether it's this roll applied or spray but it's what's going to determine how nice that finish looks at the end of it so go ahead take the tack rag wipe off your car and go ahead and start doing the first coat of epoxy mixing instructions are right on the cans very easy these rollers are designed for these coatings here with this small 1/8 foam map what you want to do is what I call metering it out dip the roller into the tray and go ahead and do a couple rolls on some painters paper what that'll do is that'll wick the roller completely even now you can go ahead pick up more and start applying putting it on the car it's no different than what you're doing on the wall but the tip here is at the end once you have the hood door or any section coded come back and on your roller marks just lightly drag the roller with no pressure on it other than its own weight right on those marks and you'll see them just disappear [Music] you want to wait about 15 minutes between coats or until the epoxy is no longer tacky a trick I use is to take some painters tape in an area like down on a windshield or maybe in a wheel well where you know you're gonna come over a little bit on your roller you can use that surface now to test for if it's tacky or it's not instead of actually touching your finish in cooler temperatures you may have to wait a little bit longer inevitably there's gonna be some areas where you just can't get with the roller you can use the aerosol can for those areas or a small foam brush if it's real small dipped into your epoxy or your urethane will touch those areas up nice the next step is going to be very important to achieving a perfect level paint job what we're gonna do is apply our guide coat to the entire vehicle and when you're using the aerosol guide coat don't just sit there and fog it around like you see on a YouTube video you want to have a uniform coating of black over that gray epoxy once that's completed let it dry for about five minutes now we're gonna cross block this which is in a pattern of where you're sanding 45 degrees to each other start with your 220 grit on your block and continue to crosshatch the panel as you see me doing working this door here what that's gonna do is gonna reveal your highs and lows this is what you want to trust trust in the guide coat your handle work if you've been doing this for thirty years if you haven't this is the best option here what you can see here is any of your lows you're gonna have the black of the guide coat left in there any of your highs you're either gonna have the epoxy showing or you may even cut through depending on the size of them into the bare metal your highs if you can tap them down with a body hammer is great if you can reach the back with a dolly your lows those are the areas that we're gonna want to work with the filler to bring them up to meet your highs some tips when your block sanding are this two very important ones whenever you have a body line or a style line that's a peak you don't want to be sanding over that sand up to it in both directions like that another one is when you have an area that's very thin and narrow like say and a pillar coming down a side of a windshield if you can't get your block on there to sit squarely it'll just end up making grooves there you can use your hand but when you're gonna sand with your hand you want to take your fingers 45 degrees from the paddle never sand linear with your fingers that's what it'll dig those grooves in so now you have the entire vehicle block sanded go ahead and wipe it off blow it off or use a tack rag let's see where we are and again trust in the guide coat carefully look at a panel don't look at the whole cars all I have to bodywork this just break it up into the ten panels that it is so what you're gonna see is you're gonna see your dark areas your guide coat remaining in any of your lows any of your highs if you can get to both sides of the panel you can gently tap them down with the body hammer but trust in this guide coat this is the most important thing the lows are where we want to apply our filler the highs are where we're not going to worry about right now if we can't tap them down we want to bring the whole surface up to one uniform level so now we're getting ready to put some filler on here we're using our contour premium polyester filler which is a real nice high build high adhesion filler here's a little tip if you have a bunch of lows on your panel there before you mix your filler take some painters tape just a little piece and put it by each of those areas now you go ahead and mix your filler and you can see exactly where you want to put that on you're not chasing or looking as your fillers hardening on your pallet so now our filler has thoroughly hardened that we're gonna go ahead and block Santa start with the 80 grit on the blocks and concentrate just on the areas where your filler is what you want to do is get that into a uniform dull Sheen now we'll come back label off or blow off any of your dust and guide coat the entire panel again not just areas but the entire panel now we're gonna cross block again with our one twenty two twenty three twenty in between each step of paper or grit blow it off guide coat again this may seem like a lot of work but I'll tell you if you've ever seen a paint job looks great six seven months later you see what the painters are call sanding scratches coming through well it's not that they're coming through it's that heavier grit sanding scratches were never removed and as the paint cures and hard actually sinks into those valleys the guide coat will show us that once you're done with your 120 grit you'll see black streaks that's the 80 grit now you know continue sanding in that area with your 120 until you level it out so continue to do that guide coat progressively move up and grit don't cheat yourself don't go from a 120 to a 320 and think you're speeding things up you'll never get out those scratches work through the system trust the guide coat you'll end up with a perfectly level surface and remember when we're standing up to our body or style lines even with the filler on there you don't want to go over them you want to go up to them top and bottom and continue like that so here we are we're assured we finished our body work that means we have a complete level surface now we have some cut throughs which is fine what we're going to do now is we're going to apply one seal coat of our epoxy over the entire vehicle this will seal and protect the bare metal and get us a nice uniform surface before our urethane primer so let's go ahead and do that [Music] so once you finish with the epoxy go ahead and clean up you've done a lot so far what we're gonna do is we're gonna let this cure for 24 hours before we go ahead and put our urethane primer on so now we're gonna apply the urethane we're gonna use the same application methods and techniques as we did with the epoxy it's about the same viscosity so it's gonna go on pretty much equivalent you want to put four coats on waiting about 15 minutes between each coat or until no longer tacky [Music] at this point the four coats of urethane are cured you're done you did it you just saved yourself a boatload of money at a body shop the vehicle is now paint ready for a single-stage base clear whatever you want you don't look around there's no overspray in your shop there's no neighbors complaining about any smells or odors coming out of your garage you're ready to take this to the next step so for more information some detailed how-to videos on the opto flow product go to Eastwood comm [Music] [Music] you

Channel: Eastwood Company

Views: 230,435

Rating: 4.8968639 out of 5

Keywords: eastwood, eastwoodco, eastwood company, optiflow, OPTIFLOW, roll on primer, primer, auto primer, por15, por 15, por-15, maxx, rustoleum, rust-oleum, duplicolor, sherwin williams, epoxy, epoxy primer, urethane, urethane primer, high build, down to metal, custom shop, restoration shop, dtm, primer surfacer, surfacer, tcp global, tcp, ppg, kirker, house of color, house of kolor, kolor, diy auto primer, diy primer, primer at home, opti flow, filler, sealer, self etching primer, napa, dupli-color

Id: dAkV-n3in4I

Length: 12min 7sec (727 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 09 2020