DIY Roll-On System gets Great Results in Home Garage!

on this episode of paint society we're going to attack our project honda civic and use eastwood's optiflow primer system we'll be grinding some paint blocking out some panels putting down our epoxy paint doing some body repair and some urethane [Music] what's going on everyone and welcome back to another episode of paint society the channel where the learning doesn't stop when the video ends well today we have a very special one for you guys because we're gonna take our honda civic project that needs a little bit of work and some primer and we're gonna put to the test and use eastwood's optiflow primer system we have an epoxy and we have a urethane as well let's see what else the kit has to offer so with a wide variety of products this kit is designed for you guys in your home garage to get you one step closer to getting it into the body shop we know how restoration projects can be that can take many months too many years and sometimes when that metal rusts that's something that we don't want to happen so this is a good way of getting your car protected while you work on it that's why we have the epoxy and the urethane to help us out in between our body work to seal up our metal and get it one step closer to maybe moving it to the body shop without the use of a spray gun a whole spray system we can use it with ease just by rolling it on and we're going to test it out today and see if it lives up to what a regular primer system can do with a regular conventional gun now this is the whole kit everything will be included here that you see on this table and it's enough to get your whole entire card done now first up what we're going to have is our sanding which you're going to need to do before you actually go ahead and sand now it comes with a dura block now durable uses the stick it sandpaper and we have a wide variety of sandpapers right here i've already gone and tested out the 120 and a 220 grit now it also comes with your p 400 p 320 and you have the p 180 now the way that this paper works is very simple so right here i have my p220 and i'll just go ahead and measure just about how much it is and i'll just go ahead and rip it right that spot or we can cut it with some scissors now this is a stick it so when you peel the backing off of it okay it's simply going to stick right to your dura block this is where you're going to start the process by going ahead and sanding the card down or chemically stripping it or using another tool which we'll get into so that's the first step after you have everything sanded you're going to want to go ahead and mix your primer now these cups will be used for your primer you can also use it for a wide variety of different paints as well for your project comes with a convenient top so if you want to go ahead and store any base coats that aren't catalyzed you'll be good to go using these mixing cups then we get to the guts of the actual system now before using any of these paints it's really very important to look at the instructions i went right over the instructions and got familiar with them a few times just so i can make sure that i'm following it perfect and it's got pictures which i like because i am a visual learner okay coupled with some very easy to read instructions it's a pretty straightforward system now the way that eastwood wants you to do it is it wants you to get your epoxy on the surface first so for that you'll have your epoxy catalyst and your epoxy primer now these two will mix up and we'll show you how to do that now again this is enough to do a full sized car and you're only going to mix what you need because you got about 20 minutes before it starts to kick so your epoxy would come first and then we'll move on to our primer now before we move on to our urethane primer it's recommending that we use a body filler over our epoxy so this is not included with the kit but you can go ahead and pick up this body full or any body filler to go ahead and use it before the primer system now this primer suggested to go on over the epoxy now of course if you don't have any bare metal spots you can use it over some body filler if you like but we're going to go ahead and follow the directions just the way it said and it's saying to use this over a 400 grit scuff surface so that would be the epoxy in that case so this is the primer and we'll get to this on the project now like any car it's going to be hard to get that roller into some tight areas which is why they have a 2k 2k spray can meaning it's two parts it's got the bladder inside that holds the catalyst and when you take the red cap and pop the bottom it will break open that bladder and release it to the rest of the can and from there you have a few days until it starts to harden up depending on the temperature where you're at and where you store it so we got the epoxy and we got the urethane primer which is the same thing that would be in that gallon that we roll on but in a spray can form for hard to reach areas then the kit brings two guide coat in aerosol form and this is to show us our lows and where we stand it and we'll get more into that in the video once we have our urethane grade primer down now the guts of this project is the roller and the roller system now looking at it does not look any different from a paint roller system you would have to paint your house which is kind of user friendly it's got 12 packs liners so you can kind of switch them out now it's going to have two different types of roller system it's going to have one for small areas and one for your larger panels now to couple with that it's going to have your larger roller and it's going to have your smaller roller now these are very very very thin the nap on them is very very minimal so it looks like it's going to go on very very easily now these are going to be one time use only because yeah they're going to harden up and dry you're not going to be able to use them so you want to make sure you're ready to prime and you're not actually just trying to test an area out because you will lose a roller once it hardens up now the smaller roller seems to be more of a foam type of material and a little bit softer but good to get in those small areas nice smooth roll and we'll put it to the test in just a little bit so here's the project this is our project civic now it's got a lot of panels that do need full primer and it's got some panels that actually have some decent clear on them that we can go ahead and just scuff now the panels that we're going to be uh putting our attention on for this project are the fender this is an aftermarket fender and then we have the original roof that the clear is completely gone and then we have the trunk right here that just needs some primer so we're going to start this project off and divide it into three panels now this car has some good clear on it still but some of the panels need attention the three panels we're going to go ahead and work on are the fender the roof and the trunk now it's always recommended that you start off a bare metal so you have a nice and even substrate so you know that what you're putting on is your work and you can trust it in this case we're going to strip this down because this has rattle can spray paint on it and we can't trust it in the case of the roof and the trunk it is the original paint so we'll actually be showing you the method of sanding that one down now in the case of stripping it like the fender we have a few options we can go ahead and chemically strip it we can hand sand it or we can use a machine stripper which is what we're going to try out right now now you want to make sure that the panels next to the panel you're stripping are protected we can use some duct tape for that and we'll protect the door by using a duct tape because it's much thicker we just need to make sure we remove it in time and don't let it sit on there all day now in the case of the stripper this is a machine we're going to use now it claims it's going to take off the paint really easily and it comes with a few different discs that you can try now it has a little bit more aggressively starting off with 40 grit but i don't think we're going to go that aggressive just yet we're going to go ahead and start with the 120 grit disc for stripping and then if we need to finish it off to make it smoother we can use this one quick unboxing let's see what it has inside oh it's got some weight to it if we take off the plastic it's got some weight like i was saying before some spots for our handle to go on and make it a little bit easier to maneuver all right so we got our 120 grit on there so let's go ahead and let's get to work [Applause] works pretty good oh a little hot works pretty good i'm gonna go ahead let me try the 40 grit a little slow uh i don't need the metal this smooth but uh let me see how well that fourth grade if it makes it too too rough then we'll switch back to the 120. [Music] well there it strips it a lot quicker and it's still not really warping the panel so that's good news let me go ahead and strip some [Music] more [Music] so the machine stripper made easy work of it although it did take a little bit of time but cut a nice strip all the way around now this is a little bit too rough so we're going to go ahead and refine it so when our primer lies on it it's got a smoother finish to lie on and that way it doesn't shrink back too much for that we're going to switch out to the 120 finishing drum [Music] [Applause] [Music] and as you can see the duct tape does a pretty solid job of protecting that panel so we got our fender all done now i showed you an application where we're stripping it down to metal just in case you don't trust what's underneath it now on the application on the roof we know that this is original paint there's no bond or anything that will get us into trouble so we're going to show you this application where we just sand and smooth it down now to do that we're selected the p220 we might want to go a little bit coarser but let's see what the 220 does before we go ahead and go coarser we just want to go ahead and level it off it doesn't look like it has any damage just needs to be smooth now when we sand it we're going to go in a cross hatch pattern that means we're gonna go one way okay and then we're gonna go the other way pretty much like an x and we'll kind of follow this whole entire pattern on the whole entire roof just the best we can and we're looking pretty much just feather out and smooth out the paint and get it ready for our epoxy primer [Applause] areas around the trim we're gonna use a maroon scuff pad now this is equivalent to around 400 grit and this will give us enough adhesion on all of our edges so we'll just simply go around and scuff it up where the sandpaper is a little bit too big to get to now with our trunk we can tell the clear coat is completely deteriorated now one option is to take it down the metal like we did on the fender or the second option we're going to treat it like the roof and just simply feather it out once again if you have a whole bunch of body filler and you don't know what's underneath it's best to take it down the metal in our case we know the history of the car and we know this is original paint so once more we're going to start by feathering it out on our block with 220 grit now if you have any sort of clear that's still kind of there you want to make sure you get that off [Music] and there we go now it looks like this trunk has a lot of high spots maybe from underneath when they're going to close the trunk maybe some objects were poking up we're not going to worry about it for now we can adjust it once we get into the primer stage we're also not going to prime this area since it's still good clear okay we only really need to focus on is a top now we're getting really close to primer now before we're primering we're going to use a pre-painting prep i'm also going to use a microfiber cloth because it really pulls off the contaminants and it doesn't get soggy and useless like a paper towel would after a few passes now while running my hand over the panel while cleaning it i noticed that the metal ones are a little bit high now these i don't really think we're going to be able to get to and fix in primer so we're going to use like an extension here and a hammer and just give it a slight tap and this will help keep it low so we can fill it later feels much better feels a slight bit low which is what we want because so you can use a little skim coat a bondo to make sure it's nice and flat and don't worry about ruining those microfiber cloths i use all these for painting i simply just throw them in the wash grab some degreaser and they're good to go so we have our epoxy and our urethane primer and we're ready to get started now our epoxy primer is direct to metal dtm now we're going to be using this on the fender on the roof and on the trunk now we could get away with just using our urethane primer on the roof and on the trunk since we really don't have much bare metal showing if you plan on just using a urethane for areas you didn't take down the metal you need to use the epoxy spray at least on the bare metal spots and that would be spots just like this but if you really want a long lasting repair and a strong hold out it is best to use epoxy on the whole entire car it's just that much stronger of a primer when followed up with the urethane you'll get a much nicer finish we're going to go ahead and pop these open and i'm going to show you a little trick to mixing and pouring these without making a mess now these are ddos gallon size mixing units now you can get these online we happen to have some really old ones laying around that weren't being used now we'll simply just put it in here now there's a lot of sludge at the bottom here so it can be a real pain to mix now we'll just simply take off this top little collar then you get yourself a drill motor and slowly mix it okay so we're ready to go ahead and mix our epoxy primer with the catalyst now this mixes one to one that means for one part of epoxy primer it's one part of epoxy we find one to one which is right there and then we're gonna go up to the first six for our epoxy and then it's gonna be equal half an equal part it's gonna be the other six right there for our catalyst really mix it up good now it says do not use any more epoxy than what you can use in 20 minutes that means it's to start to kick up pretty quick and you're not going to be able to roll it anymore it's going to start to probably get really jelly now i've done no special fancy masking i want to make sure i can do this job with the bare minimum okay so i've only ran a couple pieces of tape around the exterior of where we're going to be priming so let's go ahead and see if really we can get a nice prime out of this roller now we're going to start off by taking one of our liners out and going ahead and putting it into our tray we are going to use a smaller roller for the fender since it does have some contours that might be a little bit tougher with a bigger roller first coat it says just get it on there we don't want to go too heavy we just want to get the primer on the surface now for the roof we're already using our bigger roller to cover more surface area don't worry about trying to get it completely covered on the first roll there's going to be some see-through spots you can tidy these up with the second and the third coat i'll switch to the small foam roller for the edges a little bit softer and it conforms better to these little body lines that we have along the roof rail i'm learning quick that a little product actually goes a long way now we'll go ahead and pour some more epoxy primer and we'll attack our second coat after 30 minutes now we're not looking to build too much with our epoxy so we're just going to do two coats that should be more than enough [Music] so our epoxy has been drying for a good couple hours now and you can see it's dry to the touch but we really need to wait the four days before we continue with the body work or the urethane primer now the directions will tell you that we can go ahead and do the body work right over this with sanding with a 320 or 400 but once we do our body work we're gonna need to epoxy over it then wait our four more days and then go ahead with the urethane all right so it's been four days we really want to make sure we're following the directions and doing it just as they say so we can leave any sort of issues to user error and not the actual product now it is hard as a rock it is good to go if we look at the roof as well it's good to go so what i'm going to do now is i'll tape off my edges and we're going to go ahead and start the sanding process so right here in the process where it wants us to put the guide coat on which we have right here and then we'll sand it with a 320 grit now when you put your guide coat on it can be kind of misted on just like this it doesn't need to be completely black now what this mist black will do is get into all the little crevices and it's going to show you your low spots let's see if we have any low spots here okay so the epoxy has been sanded now this is really going to show us what's going on let's identify what we have here okay so anywhere where the guide coat still is is a low spot so for instance you can still see the guide coat right here and a guide coat right here that will represent a small dent okay everywhere else looks pretty good now right here is a high spot it's an abrupt high spot just right in the middle of nowhere it's a high spot and that's when the actual block right it hit the top of it now this is not a high spot that's because the contour of the fender so i was standing here it was hitting the contour okay where the fender was a little bit wider in this area so you kind of have to recognize right where your highs and where your lows are when it's something just like this that's kind of just abrupt you know it's a high spot and use your hand i can feel it this i know it's smooth so let's show you how we fix these i'm just going to take my hammer and my socket and just lightly tap down on it i need to make it a little bit below the surface so my filler can go ahead and make a nice smooth flat surface now i don't feel it getting hung up my hand just kind of smooths right over the surface now for this we have two options we have a premium uh body filler it's gonna be a little bit thicker and heavier and then we have our glaze now this area is so smooth it doesn't need much of a fill so go ahead with our glaze just a little quick wipe and if you get a little over excess excess that's okay okay right there and then this one over here i'm going to kind of bridge it together we're going to make a bigger one okay that way it's going to be smoother we don't have to worry so much we'll allow this to dry for about a good 15 minutes and then sand it so we got that roof all sanded and i gotta say i'm really happy because there's no dents or anything that needs any bodywork no low spots just a couple areas where we have the original paint which is fine that means it's been feathered out and smoothed out pretty good but we didn't hit metal so that's not a problem now if we take a look at the trunk it's a little bit different situation although it does have all these kind of burn throughs they are flat if you feel them with your hand there are a couple that do need a little bit of filler you can see right here where the guide coat is still showing through and we got metal high spot right here so we'll tap this down add a little filler to these and get that filler on the fender and on the trunk sand it down [Music] [Music] so i'm ready to epoxy again now the reason why i'm going to epoxy again is because i have metal showing and i don't want to cover that with the urethane because urethane doesn't have metal coating properties in it to protect it as well okay plus that epoxy is much more stronger all my bodywork's been sanded with up to 220. so what we're going to do is the roof is fine right but the uh trunk is gonna need some epoxy again i can't put that urethane back over it so instead of using the roller i'm gonna show you what we're gonna use so the kit comes with a 2k euro spray epoxy primer and it's gonna have that um bladder that you puncture on the bottom using that red cap and this is gonna be the same as that same uh epoxy that we use that was out of the can so to use this let me show you how to use this what you want to do is take that cap right and you want to press it on like a hard surface like the ground and i'll put that cap right on that little uh stem right in there and i'll push down and listen for the click all right so it does take a little muscle but once that click happens that means that we've broken the bladder inside and now the catalyst and the epoxy primer are now mixing okay and you can get a good two to three days maybe longer if you keep it in a cooler environment but this will eventually harden up and you won't be able to use it anymore and there you have it this is the panel after the epoxy in the rattle can now we're gonna allow this to dry a few more days make sure it's nice and hard now if you were gonna take your car to the body shop from this point it'd be fine the metal will be protected you'd be good to go now the same thing over here all of our metal in our body filler is protected with the epoxy so we are good to go and we'll allow this to dry just a few days and then from there we'll go to the urethane primer to get that building to get it ready and closer for our paint job okay so we're back here four days later now i could have probably just done two or three days because on the fender that epoxy that we had used had dried already and what we're going to do now is we're going to get ready for our urethane primer now our urethane primer is going to be a little bit of a thicker build and this is what we can really start to smooth out our panels with our epoxy remember is mainly just for protecting that metal and sealing our body filler in so what the directions recommend is a 320 to 400 grit i'm choosing a 400 and all i'm going to do here is i don't need a die coat is i just want to go over the surface to kind of give that primer something to bite onto so i'll just go over it it'll be a little dusty but not too much i'm not concerned about blocking it out just going over the panel smoothing out that epoxy spray so we're ready to mix up our urethane primer now this gets mixed up four to one on our epoxy primer that's one to one so if we come here on a cup we'll see that it has a four to one ratio and that's right here so we'll go up to the seven and then we'll go up to the next seven to the next seven right there and we have a properly mixed ratio all right so here's our urethane primer now they'll recommend two to three coats and uh we want to wait maybe a half hour before the first coat and then you can go from there just use your best judgment but about 20 to 30 minutes between coats um we're going to go ahead and pour it in pour the whole amount now you need to wear your mask i didn't wear mine when we did the epoxy but it is important there still are fumes that are in the air so make sure you [Music] [Applause] wear [Music] so i just laid the two coats of the urethane primer and it is drying now it actually looks really good it lays out a lot smoother than the epoxy and i'm hoping it's going to sand a little bit smoother as well so we're back here after the next day now they say with the urethane primer you only need four hours for it to dry not four days like the epoxy now i'm going to show you in this area right here it's a little rough and that's due to user error the instructions say only use the amount of primer that you can roll on within 20 minutes after 20 minutes it starts to kind of gum up and get a little chunky and that's kind of what you see here but not a problem i'm going to show you how we can block this out and smooth it out so the directions state to start with a 320. i'm going to tell you if you have a little roughness start with a 220 and kind of knock down that coarseness and then we can move on so if there's any evidence if this actually builds mills a primer take a look at the ground there now this is with 220 now 220 is going to leave it a little flatter but it's going to take off a lot of material so this is where you kind of want to leave it you can still see a little bit of the guide coat now that's the primer underneath that's not a problem as long as we're not going down to bondo or to metal so we're gonna go ahead and leave it right here okay and we're gonna hit it up with 320 and it's going to be much easier to stand and then 400. make sure to reapply your guy coat so that we know we're removing the 220 grit scratches now once more our guide coat and we have our 400 grit now what i'm going to add is that 220 the the brunt of the work 320 400 is going to be much easier sand because we're just refining the scratch right now now i had my own blocks at dura block as well i like it because it's a little bit flatter and it's easier on a smaller area to sand out after the 400 grit it is smooth as butter now from this point where if you're taking it to the body shop or if you're going to paint it yourself should probably put that urethane sealer over it then your top coat so you want to follow your paint manufacturer's tds technical data sheet to tell you how to prepare it now i don't want you guys to be scared that epoxy primer is showing underneath that is not a big deal that's actually just showing you that you've really leveled out your finish and i gotta say it is very very smooth now there are a couple small areas that i did go through to metal and for this we're actually going to use our urethane high build now for epoxy you want to use that for metal like larger areas but for something small like this you can use your aerosol high build urethane now the reason why you want to use this on the whole car is because it simply does not have the same build as the paint that you're using with the roller it does not have the same thickness for something small like this it works just perfect and that's it now for these areas all we'll do is use a 400 crit scuff it up and it won't be a problem at all we don't have to block it out because it lays much smoother than that of the roller because it has a far less build to it now we'll kick in the high gear and we'll go ahead run some 220 320 400 on the roof and on the trunk see what it looks like when it's done [Music] so to spare you some time i just showed you the 3 320 and 400 only i went ahead and did the 220 on my own but take a look at this this is 320 and 400 only and look how much of it uh how much dust we have that's how much build that we're seeing even here on the trunk we have a lot of build and don't worry again about these epoxy areas showing if i run my hand over this it is smooth as butter now we don't have any metal showing but i do have a little bit of body filler showing so once again we're going to use our 2k gyro urethane primer just to cover that up once the panels are cleaned off just take a look at what we have achieved in our own home garage a panel that has been repaired and is ready for paint look at the roof right here looks amazing it feels great now there was work that was involved with it but this job did not require any compressor or any sort of power tools other than the paint stripper that we plugged into the wall that we use for this fender right here now we did this whole job in our home garage and i am impressed with the way the primer laid now coming from a body shop and spraying regular primer it will not lay as smooth as primer coming out of the gun but for the option of not having a full compressor paint system and all that it is a great alternative now i want you guys to really pay attention to the directions and the directions it will say wet sand and you can do that but i prefer to dry sand when you dry sand you can see what you're doing it's much easier although wet sanding will be a little bit cleaner okay because you won't get dust everywhere also pay attention to the directions because it does say four hours for that epoxy to dry that is because that epoxy really needs to tighten up and get hard you need to allow enough time for it to dry so it can shrink properly so you won't see those sand scratches later on so where does this leave the project or your project from here well this particular case you can go ahead and if you're painting the car this is ready to paint maybe we're fine a little bit more maybe 600 or 800 depending and you want to make sure you're going to seal it or hand it off to a body shop from here whatever your plans are go ahead and share them down below i'd love to hear about what your restoration is or your project you can also tag me on instagram at paint.society tell me your stories i'd love to see what you got going on hey but until the next time this is brian from paint society reminding you don't overthink it it's just paint i'll see you guys on the next one [Applause] you

Channel: Paint Society

Views: 258,296

Rating: 4.8006196 out of 5

Keywords: paint, garage, refinish, project, how to, diy, fix, how, salvage, build, copart, repair

Id: hnNVQvTSE6I

Length: 37min 42sec (2262 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 26 2020