How to Fix Rust Holes on a Budget Using Fiberglass - NO WELDING

hello viewers for DIY is here with an editorial video for everyone in this particular video here I'll be doing a demonstration how to repair rust holes on your vehicle's body panels using fiberglass now before I do get into this repair as a disclaimer this is a budget repair and when done correctly can last for a very long time however with that being said if you are wanting to restore a vehicle properly then this isn't the repair for you this is a repair where it can be done at home doesn't cost a load of money or require any specialty tools and can easily clean up your vehicle fiberglass is strong so won't fall out like a body filler even when using a reinforcement mesh the two main concerns with fiberglass is that it doesn't expand and contract like metal so the repair may be visible and it may have bonding issues with the steel so those areas will be covered in this video I have you just method in the past on low-budget daily drivers without any issues and it has held up great despite living in a area where the vehicles are exposed to harsh winters so as you can see here there's quite a few soft spots along the fender unfortunate with this fender design the inner fender folds over on the inside creating a prime spot for dirt to get trapped holding moisture and eventually rotting out the steel luckily this lip is still salvageable so it'll be easier to maintain that shape and the body lines removing the paint and rust this can be done by hand or by machine you can use anything from a surface sander such as what I have here media blasting orbital sander etc when removing material it's important to wear the proper safety equipment such as a mask and safety glasses so you're not exposing yourself to any harmful contaminants 80 grit sanding discs are used this will clean up the surface quite quickly while the surface sander can create Heat you'll need to be careful and minimize this we want to avoid heat as this can warp the steel getting the panel down to the bare metal so you have a good base point on what needs to be cut out and where the rust ends from the rust damage there should be about two to three inches around the area to ensure we have a solid base and it didn't miss any rust spots which may jeopardize the repair try to clean up the area fairly well you can go over the area again and just before the fiberglass is applied using compressed air blow it any dirt or debris which may be stuck behind the fender next using a die grinder clean up that rust hole cutting out some of that thin rusted metal this pneumatic die grinder is made by OEM tools model number two four four zero four from a Mobil distributor supply if you have seen my cab corner video both the die grinder and a surface sander or use their as well both these tools work great with a small portable air compressor so they do fit perfect for anybody working at home a link to both these products will be included in the description below once that rusted metal has been cut out unfortunately there will most likely be rust in behind that fender and this can be tough to tackle using a media blaster would be the best option however that can be messy and if you don't own that equipment it can be a bit costly to get into and I'm trying to keep this as a budget repair a chemical rust converter can also be used which I'll be showing here there are various products on the market available some do work better than others this is the same product I used to clean up the rear differential on my Toyota Tacoma and we'll be posting a video for that in the future application processes will vary with this product I dumped a desired amount into applies to container and then applied it to the surface using a brush keep the surface wet the slower it dries a little longer it can attack that rust once it dries I went over the area again using 80 grit disks and abrasive pads to ensure all the paint is removed and we have bare metal exposed just to give you a close up at the surface sander this is made by OEM tools model number two four four one seven from mobile distributors supply this works excellent with those small portable air compressors is relatively quiet and a compact allowing you to get in those tight areas inside that hole and behind that fender using 80 grit sandpaper to scuff up the surface a rough surface allows the fiberglass to have a straw bond to the bare metal if there is paint or primer in between the fiberglass and metal materials this may give an area for the bond to fail I'm also wearing gloves which helps prevent the oil for my skin contaminating the surface this also can cause a tease and issues using a hammer lightly tap on the edge of the hole the fiberglass cloth will go in behind and overtop of the hole this will help keep the repair level with the original body shape clean the surface using a wax and grease remover and a clean rag gloves are highly recommended when working with fiberglass the fibers can embed in your skin causing irritation you'll need to cut up various lengths and sizes this matting cloth will need to be placed across the surface in multiple layers it's best to have plenty of pieces cut first as it can be messy if you need additional pieces halfway through patching the holes using fiberglass is messy as the resin will most likely start dripping when applied cover up the surrounding areas to help contain that mess resin can be tough to clean up when it's dried on a surface or object for this project I'm using a polyester laminating resin which will remain tacky when it dries and can easily have additional layers if desired using a mixing container dump a desired amount of resin if you do run out of resin partway through that isn't an issue as you can always mix more don't mix too much as it can go outside of the resins work time then apply the hardener the ratio between the hardener and resin can vary between products and this also depends on weather conditions more hardener tends to be needed in cooler weather and a lesson warmer weather as it cures faster but if you do add too much hardener the resin produces heat when curing so this heat can create warpage on the fiberglass too little and the resume not cure at all when the hardener is added the resin will change color which is normal the resin must be well mixed and try not to cause any bubbling either also when working with fiberglass work in a well-ventilated area using a cheap disposable brush applied the resin to the surface this will help stick the fiberglass cloth to that surface then apply the cloth first you'll need to apply it on the backside you can pre soak the cloth but this can get messy so I'm taking a slightly cleaner route the cloth must be fully saturated in resin otherwise it may not stick on the surface or its structure will be jeopardized using a stir stick I'm able to maneuver the cloth and behind that panel to stick it in place the exposed metal edge basically needs to be sandwiched between the fiberglass layers the more layers of fiberglass the stronger the repair will be if there is high spots this isn't an issue as it can be ground down afterwards once the area is filled up using painters tape lay it over the top this will help keep the area together reduce the chance of the edges pulling away before it cures keeps the bubbling down and when it's cured you'll have a smoother surface next working on the other side using the same process work time of the resin will depend on how much hardener is mixed in along with the weather conditions dry times will vary this should be ready to sand in a few hours however I will be letting this dry overnight the hole should be overlapped by at least a couple inches so there is a good strong bond if you go past the cloth with the resin that's not an issue as it can be sanded afterwards remove the tape and as you can see the repair has hardened you can of course hand sand the area but this does take time this should be done with 80 grit sandpaper and I'm using a block backer this is the same setup that I used on my cap corner replacement video or you can use a surface sander to cut down that area quite fast you'll need to rough in the area first a filler will take care of the fine work after considering the fender shape was gone due to the rusting this will need to be made again if you do find any thin areas or holes in the fiberglass more cloth and resin can be applied clean the area using a wax and grease remover using a short strand fiberglass filler this will be used to get the shape back this is a strong waterproof filler the mixing ratio for the hardener and filler will be listed on the can and the filler should be dragged across the surface when mixing so you don't introduce air bubbles in the filler the filler should be mixed on something which doesn't soak in the resins I am using wax paper over a cardboard backer then apply the filler to the surface if you don't get all the spots in the first try more filler can be applied you'll have a certain amount of work time when applying the filler once it goes past that window the filler will be hard to work with and it won't have that bond allow the filler to dry and then block the surface using 80 grit sandpaper getting that shape back does take some time and if you're new to bodywork it can be tough it does take patience time and always looking at the panel from different angles being that this panel is in one color this also makes spotting those angles a little tough using a coarse sandpaper makes roughing in the shape much quicker and the sandpaper doesn't tend to plug up as easily however when that sandpaper does plug up you can use a wire brush to clean it I would recommend wearing gloves however at this moment is quite hot outside so it's a bit more comfortable without them on the curved edge you can use a flexible rubber backer to help achieve that smooth contour I can already see there are some low areas which will need to be addressed in a moment clean the area off using a wax and grease remover then allow it to evaporate before applying more filler a fast and efficient way for cleaning up an applicator is by scooping up the remaining filler from your mixing board once it dries Bend the applicator and the filler will break right off in large chunks when the filler is too thin it can flex the applicator and can be hard to remove apply more filler using the same process as previously mainly focus on those low areas or any flaws on the surface sand the area again using an 80 grit sandpaper I did end up applying more filler in a couple missed areas there really isn't a limit as to how many coats you can apply and I usually try to keep the thickness around 1/8 of an inch or 3 millimeters in total now working on the back side you may need to seal up the surface depending on the fender design I do have a couple holes in the inner fender which I won't be batching but it does expose the back side of the repair and it may allow moisture to penetrate in order to gain access inside the fender well plastic covers may need to be removed for this truck there's a shield at the front and rear inside that fender there will be plastic clips that hold these liners and place and they simply pull straight out first using a die grinder with a wire wheel clean up any dirt or rust in the backside you'll most likely need to remove the wheel for this so the vehicle should be safely elevated using a wax and grease remover clean the surface here's a quick view on the inside of that fender using an etching primer applied to the surface and etch primer is needed on bare metal as it increases the bond for additional products and can help reduce future rusting to some extent two coats are needed wait five to ten minutes in between each of those coats next I applied a regular gray primer which will be a barrier between the etch primer and undercoating edge primer can sometimes cause a chemical reaction depending on the products that are used two coats are all that's needed again wait five to ten minutes in between coats back on the outside of the fender considering it is getting late I like to seal up the surface to some extent from the elements sand the fender down using 180 grit and then finish up with 220 there is bare steel however there is also filler and paint so an etch primer can't be used as it can sometimes create a chemical reaction so a filler primer is being used instead to seal up the surface feather in the existing paints edge so we have a smoother transition line clean the area using a wax and grease remover then mask off the surrounding area for masking I'm using packaging paper which is cheap and will soak up the paint so there is no risk of any paint flaking off onto the work surface place the paper over the area which will be painted apply the tape and then fold it back over this will reduce the chance of a hard tape edge which can be hard to sand afterwards overspray can be removed this can be done using a wax and grease remover or clay bar give the area another wipe down with a wax and grease remover then apply the filler primer first applying a light coat then to medium to fully wet coats you're looking at about 10 to 15 minutes in between coats this can vary depending on your temperature remove the paper within 5 minutes after that final coat considering I did leave her for the next day the primer should be lightly sanded with 400 grit abrasive pads by hand if you apply the undercoating 20 minutes after that final coat of primer there's no need for scuffing the surface if he did scuff the surface also give that area wiped down using a denatured alcohol mix the undercoating accordingly and spread on the surface starting out with a light coat first considering it is warmer outside you'll be looking at about 15 minutes in between each coat applying more coating for the surface will leave it smoother while light coats tends to put more texture on once it dries here's what I'm left with and it's officially done on the inside you can use a guide coat on the outside just like my cab corner video I notice fairly close and you can see the high and low areas therefore it won't bother with a guide coat sand the surface using 220 grit sandpaper and vacuum fat the edges around the old paint and the repair will need to be feathered in along with any surface imperfections if you do sand down through the primer to the bare metal more primer will need to be applied considering this is a fiberglass filler it is thick and has a higher chance of causing pinholes these will need to be filled a spot putty also referred to as a glazing or finishing putty will be used here this can also be used to fill any mod Leeloo areas or any light surface imperfections a two-part product is the best option as it's a much better quality product than compared to a single part product this includes both a filler and hardener again it's mixed by dragging it across the surface until it's a uniform color and the mixing ratio will usually be printed on the side of the product package apply to the surface using a plastic applicator same way as the fiberglass filler this filler is much thinner which allows you to achieve a smoother finish and it can be feathered and much easier again you'll have a limited work time window and this will depend on your weather along with how much hardener has been mixed in the thickness of the filler should be no thicker than 1/16 of an inch or 1.5 millimeters dry times will vary again however in general this should be ready to in about 30 minutes using 220 grit sandpaper block the surface using the same process as before working across the panel avoiding any waves if the sandpaper becomes plugged use a wire brush to clean it considering a filler was used again this can leave outlines in the paint so a primer is needed go over the main area with 320 sandpaper and 400 at the blend points where the transition is between the primer and original paint tape the area off just like before the primer needs to be applied over those 220 and 320 standard areas otherwise the sanding marks will show through on that final paint finish the area will need to be cleaned using a denatured alcohol to remove any contaminants apply the filler primer primer colors can vary depending on the final color of your vehicle I'll cover that for another video this is black so does cover fairly well over a white filler primer so it's not an issue you'll be looking at about three coats one light coat and the other two will be a medium to fully wet coats five to ten minutes in between each of those coats and try to avoid any runs which will need to be sanded out if they do occur remove the paper within a few minutes after that final coat and then allow it to dry once dry to smoothen out the transition lines between the primer and paint or remove any orange peel to level out the surface block the area with a 600 grit sandpaper when sanding make sure the filler or the metal does not show through otherwise this will need to be touched up again typically with thicker paints 400 grit can be used before the final paint coverage but with thinner or metallic paints 600 grit should be used between the new and old paint transition where the tape edge will be use 1000 grit if you don't fully cover those 1000 grit sanding marks with paint that isn't an issue as they are fine enough to be polished out you'll need to paint at least a couple inches past that repair area where the primers edge finishes clean the area again using denatured alcohol and then let the product evaporate now tape off the area just like previously laying the paper over the repaired area and then fold it back over for a soft tape edge which may easier to blend after making the repair nearly invisible it's a cooler day so I warmed up the cans of paint in a bucket of hot water this helps the paint flow better on the surface if you have part cans I would recommend using those first as they don't always spray nicely due to the lower pressure or they may only spray in certain angles for paint this is a single-stage acrylic enamel which I had mixed in my local auto parts supplier they were able to mix the color based on the color coat I provided from the vehicle which can be found through the serial number on the doorpost inside the hood sometimes in the trunk area or in the glovebox ensure the paint can is thoroughly mixed and apply a light coat to the surface typically I like to get the hard and awkward areas first then finish up the final coat on the larger more noticeable sections this paint is not needed clear coat as it will dry with a gloss finish single stage doesn't tend to be as durable however there is less work to applied and it's cheaper a two-stage paint requires a base coat applied first then a clear coat is applied to provide that layer of protection and the final gloss finish but can be more expensive and slightly more work apply the second coat of paint considering this is a little cooler today I'll wait 10 minutes in between coats have the edges of the taped areas allow the paint to taper off with overspray so we don't have a hard edge which would be harder to blend after I'm not making a huge deal about the overspray on the rest of the truck as it did get a full paint correction and I have already released a video for this so be sure to check it out overspray can travel quite a ways so try to keep the paint away from any other areas which can cause damage I am applying three coats so I have enough material for what sandy and polishing if the paint layer is too thin then this is a greater chance of sanding through that layer the final paint layer should be a fully wet finish with no runs if any runs do occur they can be sanded out afterwards wait about five minutes after that final coat and remove the paper if you wait too long the paint can harden and you may risk the chance of pulling the paint off the surface on that tape edge while the paint is still fresh it also has a chance to smooth it out wait at least a week before what sanding so the paint has cured enough cure times will vary depending on your weather conditions with the cooler weather the paint will take longer ensure the area is clean and free of any contaminants that may cause damage during the polishing process using a bucket of water with a soap mixture pre soaked the sandpaper starting out with 1000 grit sandpaper this will remove a majority of the orange peel and overspray apply light to medium pressure working evenly across a surface a backing pad is recommended as it does apply even pressure to the sandpaper this can be something like a flexible rubber backer pad or a sponge with the odd contours and the fender your hand can be used but be extremely careful as you can see with the backing pad it isn't flexible enough to bend around the contours so it is leaving marks in certain areas this is something we need to avoid with 1000 grit sandpaper the surface should be fairly smooth and only light orange peels should be left behind moving up to 1500 grit sandpaper rinse tiara and sandpaper off sanding debris from time to time and the area always needs to be well lubricated with the water and soap mixture the 1500 grit sandpaper will remove the remaining orange peel finish up with 2,000 grit sandpaper you can of course go higher but I find it isn't needed if you're willing to spend a little extra time with polishing compound you can go over the original paint with each 2000 grit sandpaper this will remove some light orange peel and can help blend the area as a final stage getting that paints shined back using a polishing compound this can be done by hand or a machine polisher this is fresh paint so polishing by hand would be the safer route using a soft cloth apply the polishing compound and then work it on the surface I did apply a light mist of water to help the polish work a little easier there is a variety of products on the market workability and quality of finishes can vary remove a polish and buff the surface using a microfiber cloth after a couple minutes you can see the shine has been fully restored and the transition line is almost invisible I can lightly see an outline but after a few more minutes of polishing it should blend much better finishing up with the rest of the fender being that this is black it will show imperfections much easier than compared to some other colors so it can be a bit hard to work with at times wax should only be applied once the paint has fully cured I would wait at least a month to be safe when polished correctly this surface will remain shiny just like the rest of the vehicle as mentioned at the start of my video this is a budget repair that will still be durable and lasts a very long time when done right if you do want a proper repair especially if you're restoring a vehicle cutting out the rust and welding in a patch or replacing the whole panel at the factory body seams is the best Road new videos released every week on my channel be sure to hit that thumbs up button it's a huge help to me and leave a comment below if you found this tutorial helpful don't forget to follow my social media pages such as Facebook Instagram and Twitter to keep up to date with my latest projects and if you're not a subscriber be sure to also that subscribe button thank you for watching

Channel: 4DIYers

Views: 1,993,444

Keywords: 4DIYers, car rust repair, how to repair rust on car, how to fix rust on car, car body filler, how to fix rust spots, rust spots on car, how to remove rust from car, bondo rust repair, bondo, fibreglass, how to get rid of rust on car, fix rust spot on car, rust paint for cars, how to stop rust on a car, rust repair, repair rust on car, how to repair rust on a car, car body repair, how to repair rust, rust holes, how to repair rust holes on a car, repair rust holes, welding

Id: D6jEkz3_-po

Length: 23min 0sec (1380 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 22 2019