How To Rough In Plumbing Under Slab For A Bathroom - FOR BEGINNERS!

in this video I'm going to show you how I'm going to rough in plumbing underneath of a concrete slab that's for a bathroom that you see here behind me and if you're new this channel my name's Josh this channel is all about building your own house saving a ton of money so be sure to subscribe ring that Bell so you get notification every time release new video and Hammer that like button for me that's all ask return for making this video so we got a lot to do today so let's get started I'd like for you to note the details to the drawings here as you can see I got a three inch drain pipe in which I roughed in in the first video on this garage build and this is part three of a multi-part series as you can see we've got our drain pipe coming right in and this is our drawing for our bathroom and these are stairs and this is a sink that's going to be inside than my outdoor kitchen sink and as far as the exact details of the pipes themselves if we take a look here at the bathroom details the dotted lines or the pipe that's going to be underneath the slab it's already Drew this and measured everything out ahead of time and I've put errors pointing to where each fitting is going to be so I could easily calculate material and if we zoom in here if you see that we come over we're going to Branch here with a 45 degree elbow go over to the sink here after we Branch off of that and then we've got our toilet here and then we got a combo wire that's going to go to the outdoor kitchen sink then we've got a 90 degree long sweep elbow that's going to go to a sink inside of the garage and again all this is going to be based off a wall that's going to be going through here so I just wanted to show you how to calculate all this up ahead of time before I start digging for the plumbing I must first run string lines in order to represent the wall so I know where to dig and what I'm going to do is just go six or four foot six right off this wall because I'm going to have a set of stairs in the back so I'm gonna have a wall right beside it so I know the outside of the wall that's going to be on the inside it's going to be four foot six and I also I'm gonna come two foot off that Mark because I have a wall that's going to offset for the bathroom according to the plans so I'm just going to come over two foot for that as well and I'm going to make a mark and now they make items that attach it into string lines in order to hook to the block but I'm just going to take an easy way out because I don't have one right now just run a little tapcon on each mark and now I'm going to do the same on the opposing wall and then hook my string line to it now I'm going to hook my string line to that tapcon and run it to the first tapcon that we made Loop it around that tapcon now I'm going to come over this tapcon and this is going to be my offset wall for the bathroom now that gives me a reference to go off of while I'm digging out for these Plumbing pipes and also I need to make sure this isn't off String Line there we go that looks good now that we know where the walls are going this way we need to get the walls that are going to go this way in order to represent the bathroom corner and as you can see our sub panel wire and conduit and our water lines are coming right up through here so I want to make sure my wall is going to sit right here to house these wires and pipes so I'm going to measure over off that blocked wall to the edge of that pipe so if I go to about a hundred and eighteen inches which ends up being nine foot ten I'm going to come over here 9 foot 10 on this block wall and drive a stake in order to hold the string line so I know where it's going to be now we need to mark it over here on that wall now I'm just going to put tapcon here all right now I'm going to take my string line and go around that tapcon run it over to my stake now we know exactly where our walls are going to be so we can start digging all right so now as you can see we got our string line down here going beside those pipes and right here is the pipe that's going to be for the drain and these are our rough walls where they're going to be so as you can see we are ready to start digging out some of this dirt as you can see we got all the rough digging done now what I'm going to do is measure over to where the toilet is going to be and mark it on my string line and also the other drains so that way we know exactly where we're headed to when we're plumbing and I know I need to come 39 inches off this string line for the toilet so I'm going to come up here this measure right off that string line 39 inches all right so it's going to be right there and now I know my sink drain has to be 14 inches off this string line so I know exactly where I'm headed to and since this is on the other side of the wall we know we're going to be coming up right here and it's going to be a two by six wall here is the three inch pipe that's going over to the sewer system and now I'm going to have to install what's called a clean out tee and this clean out tee is not going to be functional after the Plumbing's done the reason why I got to put it here is because I need to find a way to hydro stack test the water lines with water so in order to do that I'm going to install this then the cap comes off then I got what's called a clean out plug and this simply just threads right into that clean out like so and then there's a valve stem here to place air into it and as you can see it plugs up the inside of that Tee so if you take it out as you can see it's totally opened up after that then this goes in Threads in plugs up the hole after you put air in it then we're ready to water test our plumbing I'm first going to start by taking a Sawzall and this is a bi-metal blade I found out it cuts PVC pipe much cleaner than using a wood blade so I'm first going to cut this off as flush as or as straight as in square as I can in order to get a good fit so I'm going to do that first all right now that that's cut off I'm just going to clean around it in order to get the fitting to be installed onto the pipe and now I'm going to take a utility knife and just clean right around the edges to deburr it and the inside is just as important because that can catch hair or what Notch and clog up your drain so definitely to burn the inside as well I'm now going to take a paper towel and just clean this pipe really well here on the end and make sure it's nice and clean I'm going to take the cap off this tee then we're just going to dry fit it into place like so and then I'm just going to take a torpedo level and put it on level now that I got saying where I want it I'm just going to take a marker make a mark on the fitting then on the pipe so that tells me where I got a line up to when I go to put it on with glue I'm now going to use what's called purple primer and prime the pipe in which the fittings going on and also Prime the fitting itself on the end that's going to connect to the pipe like so and I'm now going to use what's called heavy duty PVC cement and this is going to be for gluing the pipe to the fitting and now whenever you put this fitting on you want to start a quarter away from where it needs to be lined up so that way it gives it a Twist in order to make a good glue seal and be liberal with glue so we'll go on and then start in a quarter turn then we hold it for at least 15 to 20 seconds all right now I'm going to release and I'm just going to put the cap on like so for now just keep dirt out until we put the plug in I'm next going to install what's called a combo Y and it's called a combo y because a typical y would come up at a 45 and stop here and then with this other 45 connection on it it gives us a 90 from this side to this side so it's a 90 degree turn even though it's a y considerably and now we want to make sure the way it's angled that our drain is going down and sloping towards you don't want to install this combo wire this way drain coming in the water we go this way then go down and cause a clog eventually you want to make sure it's turned whichever way it's trying to drain so this is going to go right here down the trench that we dug this way so now I'm going to lay this about where it goes and then I'm just going to measure the distance between here to here and let's see it'd be more about right there and now I know the pipe goes an inch and a half back into this fitting and an inch and a half back into this fitting so if you measure right between we got nine and five eighths so nine and five eighths plus three inches for the inch and a half back an inch half back so that would be one two three twelve inches and 5 8. so that's going to be the cut we gotta make to connect these two before I show you how I'm going to cut that pipe I wanted to show you the two different kinds of PVC pipe there are if you take a look at this pipe it has on the writing here it has this cellular core now that's going to be a little bit of an interesting topic because some people claim you should not put this under concrete slab and some people claim that you should only do the solid so this stuff's pretty light and if we take a look at this schedule 40 pipe they're very schedule 40 by the way this pipe is it's heavier it ain't because it's longer it's heavier per foot and it's because it's solid PVC is much more solid in sense of it's more rigid so I'm going to be using this underneath my concrete slab so if you only have the cellular cell core stuff you might want to check with your local building codes and make sure you can use that underneath the concrete slab I would like to point out that the pressure rating of the solid PVC is 260 PSI to where the cell core is not for pressure at all the fastest and best way to cut this pipe is to use a miter saw and I just got a standard wood blade on it as you can see it's for framing nothing fancy so I know I got to measure over to my 12 and 5 8 Mark so I'm just going to take my tape measure 12 and 5 8 just as if we were cutting a piece of wood and now I'm going to get it square with my fence and I'm just going to cut it just like you are a 2x4 here so that gave you a perfect cut and also very little Burrs but I still recommend just going over it real quick just to make sure our edges are nice and smooth and I made a review video on this miter saw so check out the card in top right hand corner of the screen to check out that video I'm now going to go ahead and glue this pipe into this tee and you just use the same method as we did to install the T to the pipe foreign in order to get the angle right for this y when it's installed I'm going to go ahead and slide it onto the pipe and then take the inch and a half pipe that's coming off of it and go ahead and connect it into each other and don't glue anything yet and then what we're going to do is put our level on this piece of pipe to make sure it's sitting right then we're going to mark this to make sure it goes back together where it came off now I'm going to take my four foot level and place it on this pipe take note of the bubble between the lines I want the bubble heading towards the fixture in which the drain's coming from so that gives me about a quarter inch per foot slope which is recommended for drain lines all right now that that is where we need it I'm going to do the same thing take a marker or pencil and Mark to make sure we line up right wherever we take the pipe off and then glue it together now we're going to start running the plumbing going through here to the sinks and I'm going to go ahead and glue all this together just like we did the other fittings except now we're working with an inch and a half schedule 40 pipe because we just have sinks going to this so they require only an inch and a half pipe and now this is already angled appropriately because we calculated that earlier so it should be as simple as gluing and going so I'm going to go ahead and dry fit it on this end and place it onto this fitting so that way I know how much I got cut off of it to get to my sink that's over here measuring over 93 all right hold me right here all right 93 inches to where it needs to go so hold off this block to 93 inches we got to cut about an inch off of this pipe [Music] now I'm going to install my combo y again I'm going to dry fit it on first then take my little torpedo level we're going to get it sitting perfect whatever you do do not try to eyeball something pointing straight up or sideways always use your torpedo level now the reason we had to Elbow this up is because we had to go up over the footer so now that we're up over the footer I'm just going to Elbow it this way towards where it's going to hit on the wall over here all right now I'm going to set this here to get our elbow now I'm going to get my distance for that piece of pipe and now these go three quarter inch back into the pipe so 10 plus an inch and a half so that's going to give me 11.5 inch piece I gotta cut for this after he hands me this piece I'm actually going to go ahead and debur it and I'm going to place a small piece on the end along with the elbow and I'm going to go ahead and glue the elbow onto the pipe in this case and the reason why that is is a little bit of a tight spot here so in order to get it installed at the right slope I'm going to go ahead and dry fit it and then I'm going to use my torpedo level and get the exact angle that we need to install it and then after we get the exact angle I'm going to Mark each end with the marker just like we did the other fitting so that way we don't lose our angle and then I'm going to go ahead and glue it into place after I do that all right I cut a piece that should be the right length so I'm going to go ahead and kind of dry fit it just to make sure there it is temporarily now it's going to plumb up from the center of that hole or the edge see where we're at and yeah it looks like we should be really good to go into a 2x6 wall right there so now I'm just going to glue this into place I know it's difficult to tell the depth here but the plumbing pipes are about 18 inches below the concrete slab which is recommended in the area I'm building and now I know the string lines top of my block and my concrete is going to be four inches or so below the block so I want to be about two foot above that so that way it's going to give me plenty of space to go above and I'll cut it off later and now as you can see that elbowed up and now it's going right in line with that black line that we made on the string that marked the center so that is exactly my goal and it looked like it turned out pretty good another thing I wanted to mention these are long sweep 90s these are not the little short 90s that's for vent these are actually the long sweep meant to go in the drains I now got to bring this drain up through this block wall so I'm first going to take my level and level over from the ground to that plumbing pipe so I'm going to get at the right slope that I need and now I'm going to measure down to this elbow in order I just hold it down the ground if my level was shorter but it's not so right there looks good so I got six and a quarter so come over here six and a quarter down and we'll make this Mark on the wall and now from that Mark I'm going to measure six and a quarter down so right there is going to be the top of my pipe so I gotta bust this out right at the bottom in order to make this easy I got my rotary hammer drill and I know I'm going to be coming down off this line so I'm just going to bust out a nice section here and then see if I can plummet from there as you will notice here the blocks are not filled with concrete yet so running the plumbing before you fill them up with concrete is essential I'm going to go ahead and get my plumbing pipe back into this block that I knocked down elbow up come out through the top of this block again we're going to use a long sweep 90. I just hold it back where it belongs you get a good measurement here 34 at an inch and a half so 35 and a half inch piece now I'm going to go ahead and glue this 90 on first I'm going to go ahead and Prime this real quick because I'm going to glue this as well now I'm going to go ahead and Prime this elbow because it's going back into the wall now on both ends it's going to be very difficult to try to do this later all right so that's going to go back into the wall like so I'm going to glue it back out here but first I'm going to make sure I set this 90 we will way I want it first so as you can see even back there I set it nice and level and now I'm just going to mark it out here where I want it to be when I glue it I'm now going to go ahead and glue this end and now after checking this My Level I need to prop this up just a little bit so I'm going to put a rock under it for now just to hold it where I need it so let me check with my little torpedo level there now it looks pretty good for now and I'll double check that again before I backfill I'm now going to deburr that pipe like the rest of them and now like I was telling you earlier I can't get back there and Prime really well I'm going to try to but it's a little tight and then I'm going to glue this down through the top into that elbow we've got our plumbing done on this end now we gotta finish where the toilet and the sink go for the bathroom I'm now going to work on getting this toilet and the sink plumbed I'm going to come off this string line over here 39 inches as well even though this ain't the wall but it's going to help me reference where I need to be as far as the toilet flange itself when it comes up through the floor so I know I need to line up from that black mark on that string line to this black mark and then it's going to be in the center of that I'm now going to take a three inch combo Y and it's going to be a nice long sweep right here and I'm going to try to line it up just by ah with those black line black marks I made on the string line and that looks roughly where it's going to sit and now I'm going to take what's called a 22.5 degree elbow and this is going to point right here towards this three inch fitting that we installed earlier so it's going to lay somewhere like so so right now again it's just rough setting here so we get an idea so to start out with I'm going to go ahead and just cut a piece that fits here so we're going to cut this one we got eight inches plus the three so we're going to cut this 11 inches I'm not going to go ahead and dry fit all this together and see where we're at here and eyeballing it that actually looks pretty close to where we want it so now I'm just going to measure the pipe for here so this needs to be a five inch piece to make that connection and now I'm going to dry fit this together and you never want to glue any of this until you dry fit it when it has to be this precise all right that looks like a good start and now let me make sure I'm the right distance off the block I gotta be four foot ten off this block looks like we're definitely long so we got to bring this back to here so I'm actually just going to cut four inches off this pipe all right now I'm going to dry fit all that together again there we go that works for a four foot ten if you have never worked with PVC cement you will notice quickly that it will set up really fast when it's hot and dry out and it's going to set up much slower when it's cooler so just keep that in mind so if you have a lot to glue together be sure to work relatively fast so that looks really nice where we have it there and next I got to put a elbow over to the sink well not an elbow another combination Y and we're going to go ahead right towards where the sink's going I'm going to start by putting on a small piece of pipe just so we can get it nice and level and now this really can be a short piece of pipe because my sink is clear over here and actually I feel like that's pretty darn close where we want it right there so I'm going to go ahead and cut a small three or four inch piece that's going to head towards that wall remember just like any other DIY project be sure to check your local building codes and be compliant with the codes now I'm going to dry fit this into place and then take my little torpedo level right actually right there I mean a little bit down [Music] all right that looks good there and I'm going to take and hold it there for a second and take this tester pieced off I'm now going to put a long sweep 90 degree in order to go up through by this wall for venting and also I can install Plumbing in the upstairs if ever want to but for now this is just going to be for venting so I am going to angle that up right there measure the distance between and cut our piece of pipe I would like to take a moment to talk about the cost of this project the plumbing fittings that you see for these three inch pipes average about 15 dollars of fitting and you can get them from various places you can get them from Amazon Lowe's Home Depot and the price of the schedule 40 pipe that you see here is about forty dollars a pipe anywhere from 35 to 40s what I've seen in my local building supply stores so just keep that in mind so this project cost about 250 dollars now that we got everything pointing up we just got to cut our pipes are going to extend up above the concrete slab the time to later [Music] now that all the Plumbing's done underneath of the slab I'm going to come back to that test T that we installed earlier and this is also called a clean out tee so we're going to take this off first I'm then going to take the test T balloon plug and this is very easy to use you simply thread it down into this test T like so and you only want to hand tighten this plug into place and I'll put a link to this in the description below if you want to purchase one for your project all right now that's hand tightened on well we're going to remove this valve stem cover and you want to put in about 35 pounds of pressure in order to make the seal so I got a bicycle pump here that has a gauge in order to tell how much pressure I got in here so I'm first going to hook it on just like you do any other valve stem we're going to start pumping it up to seal off the pipe all right we're full there and now I need to go get my water hose and fill up all this pipe full of water now just going to take a water hose from the nearest water source and come over to the shortest stub up through the concrete to where it's going to be because if you fill this one up it's going to drain out of here so just save yourself a little bit of time and come to the lowest one and just start filling it up from there okay we are all full here so we're going to let this fluctuate a little bit fill in any air pockets okay and I'm going to go ahead and put some more water in it all right so how this works is I'm going to call in the plumbing inspection and when the inspector comes out he's going to look into this pipe to make sure it's holding water while he's here inspecting everything else and if it is we're good to go I'm just going to let this set up overnight in order to see if it holds overnight and if it does we're definitely good I went ahead and cleaned up all the tools that were hanging around here to do all this so this has been setting for well over 15-20 minutes as you can see the water's still right at the top so we're definitely going to pass our inspection as far as making sure we're water tight and now I would recommend you go through just to double check everything to make sure you do have the proper drop one last time and also take a shovel and I'm going to backfill right around the pipe so that way it's on a nice comfortable base so whenever this is all filled in it doesn't shift around and move [Music] all right so there it is this is the final product before the back filling let's take a look these water lines in case you're wondering will not be underneath of the slab they're coming up right through this three inch white pipe and they're just tucked down to that conduit for now just hold it into place but they're going to run in the walls to get to the fixtures so that way if I have to get to them later I don't have to go under the concrete to get to them and also as you can see I backfilled everything with the gravel so that's going to give it a nice bed and then after the inspection is done I'm going to put gravel over top of the pipes before the back filling just so you know I'd like for you to take note how this vent is going to be going up through this six inch wall and the sink behind it is as well so that's what that string line was for same thing goes for this water line as you can see it's right inside of that string line if we take a look over here then clearly this one come up through the block walls going right up through the center of the wall as well after all all the plumbing was passed and we're good to backfill and we removed the test plug and replaced it with the cap on that test tee we're now going to backfill with gravel around those pipes and be sure not to get any gravel down the pipes as you're filling in around especially when you're using something like a skid steer like we did here this is what it looked like after all the gravel was graded around the pipes as you can see we got a clean looking job and we're ready to prepare for concrete if you would like to see how I installed this drain pipe over to the Sewer or if you want to see this video series check out this playlist or check out this video it'll help you out

Channel: The Excellent Laborer

Views: 570,784

Keywords: plumbing, rough in plumbing, under slab plumbing rough in, under slab plumbing, basement bathroom plumbing, plumbing rough in, plumbing lines under slab, plumbing under cement slab, rough in plumbing basics for under a slab, rough in plumbing under garages slab, basement bathroom rough in tips, plumbing septic and drains under concrete floor, rough in, plumbing tips, how to repair plumbing, plumbing lines under the slab, underground plumbing, do it yourself, concrete

Id: _JGtxlFmj3s

Length: 28min 0sec (1680 seconds)

Published: Sun May 14 2023