Building A Bodgers Shavehorse (Complete Tutorial)

[Music] [Applause] [Music] hey guys how are you doing this is there from zealot thoughts and I hope you're having an awesome date so today I am joined by a very dear friend of mine and the old mates thiol how are you doing recently zone natesan stuff if you've been watching my channel for a long period of time you would have seen that in the very early days of my channel from the point of recording this video it's being roughly about four years look at that he's been getting younger I'll be getting older right and so about three years ago is that a video well went to a friend of mine Jo's woodland in Kent in the Southeast of England and I thought a chair making course what ends up being in the middle of a hurricane there wouldn't you love that not literally a hurricane a pass-through about the day before I was in a video like three years ago that was a la summer I saw Neil and obviously we've kept in touch it's been a very well received video and now what I'm here now is I'm in the county of Shropshire which is in the West of England in the West Midlands and we're right on the border with Wells and we're in a place called Salford and we're more specifically in Iron Bridge did you say this is Coalbrookdale which is in Iron Bridge yes well this is a very historic location now we're in their headquarters for the small woods Association which is an association in the United Kingdom that doing an incredible amount of work teaches small word owners about various aspects of Management woodland and autocross that go with it primarily centered around Queen woodworking Neil makes is what they're new boats is one of the primary teachers here but he's also a dedicated teacher in his own right now one caveat I will add in the future we'll be doing a video about the sensor itself is has got a various a lot of history behind it and it's an absolutely stunning location so I'm here today to spend quite a bit of time with Neil he's very kindly taking the time out to show the process from absolute star literal start to finish on how to make a shave horse and more specifically a budges pattern shave or there are many different models that are out there now don't worry if you're trying to figure out what that pattern is you will be seeing that as we move forward and actually the next segment we actually going to look at an example of what we're gonna aim to replicate so Neil is going to very kind of take the time out to show us in this video now a couple of things stress in this video as you can see from the timeline it's a very long video now that's necessitated in order to show every single step of the process and there are a lot of steps involved it's not a simple I am to make as such and there are few subtleties and nuances along the way and along with Neil's kind of experience of many many years we can hopefully partake to you some tips and techniques to start to finish on how you can make your own shape horse should you so desire so you can see obvious it's a long video that's necessary in order for other steps involved and for us to cover that properly the second thing I will add if you look in the description just below this video you will see a timestamp of all the different sections of the process of making a shape horse so if you want to jump to a particular section of this shape horse making process you could jump straight to that down below in the description so with your kind permission you'll yes what we're gonna do now in this next segment we're gonna look at an example of the shape horse we're gonna be actually building and then get on with the actual build from there working with a fresh piece of ash and I suddenly recently been felled so hope you enjoy the rest of this video your new Neil mopes is going to teach you how to make a bodger's pattern shape horse using hand tools and fresh wood so Neil this is a rough example of the top we're gonna build I know you said the one we're gonna build is slightly different but just to touch on this you mentioned is a specifically a bodger's pattern yeah and so can you spin what you mean by that well the Chilton Hills is a big area where the beech trees are and ran high wycombe particularly although there's other areas here there was a chair making industry as well so High Wycombe just for those watching who may not know that's just outside London isn't it's north of London yep and Trudeau mately beech trees beautiful area and there was a lots and lots of beat chair makers but we were working in that area and we're known as bages and this was a synonymous really to that sort of working it's quite a narrow space here and you can imagine it's just really for chair legs that they work with for draw knifing on to get them down to a roundish billet to be able go on to a onto a pole lathe so you can see it's three legs good for on even ground quite a stable process this one's a bit shorter this is really aimed more for children but with a bit of a longer body we'll make it a bit bit more yours I think so three legs two at the back wall at the front the angles that I put on are normally around about 25 degrees sloping outwards I'll do that pretty much on all my benches and make so that's an angle that I'm quite used to drilling into legs with so we'll have a body of ash the whole thing will be made of ash including the the wedge that the the upper ramp will be a little bit longer as well and then we've got a frame that comes off so we have a treadle on the bottom which is used with two feet so you sit across it and trapping a piece in you're actually use both your feet and pushing away trapping a piece of timber underneath so we've got the treadle we've got an adjustable height with a handle there and then there's the clamp up on the top which can be adjustable as well depending on what size piece of timber so it'll be a bit of an all-singing all-dancing perfect you have may see that because of this specific style is easier to transport is that correct yes that because the legs can come out the the top will come off everything comes apart so it'll all be in a kit form and the legs are just sitting to quite deep socketed holes or mortises there's a wonder twisted thing with this particular saw which I've not you seen before is the carve Singh I finished so it's a beautiful addition area which is a twist that I've put on because the end of the day if you're doing a lot of pole weight turning and you're sitting on a shave horse the worst thing you've got is something that's gonna really hurt your backside you want something that's fairly comfortable dope that's really why I put this scallops eating a lot of work involved in that but it will it can be done and it's perfect so this is the style that we're going to be working through and obviously it's going to be tweaked slightly the final version that we actually built yeah so was a next step of the process are we gonna now work with a fresh piece of ash in the tree was felled two days ago ash treat local material and we've got two parts of the bottle the lower part and the the next part above it the tree actually came from an area known as nege Hill which is approximately three or four mile up the hill from here and that was felled brought on site the next section that we'll be looking at we're going to be cleaving or splitting the main trunk apart to make the main body that'll be the first part and then everything else gets built off the board perfect so we move on to our section Nell then so Neil here's the beautiful piece of ash in question yeah felled locally only two days ago so it's really green still after some summer growth in it so this is part of a site where it's come from where it's been managed actively managed so there's a lot of trees that were planted about 40 years ago plus and now they're being thinned and the wood comes here and we use its part the courses and also the firewood for beautiful pieces like this tend to get use direct for craft work so with this on the just so for the folks that are watching is a particular diameter they should be looking for when well this is probably a little bit on the large side for a shape horse but anywhere between 10 to 12 inches cuz we're gonna get a seats out of this bit here yeah this is where you're gonna be sat on this so we might just clean the sides up just to give it a a square to feel to it but predominantly it'll just be half a log and then it will get narrowed down where the the front end of the shake horses where the frame fits so but if you've got a nice large seat at the back that gives you plenty of room to sit on and sort of first step in the process is using the throat you say yep so we've got a fro here and the mall um if you look just basically there's a very small crack in the timber there which we're going to have to use and I'm not using the the fro to split it all I'm doing he's on one a mark where we're gonna be driving the wedges in so I've got something to aim to a nice straight edge okay see essentially just score it just scoring it's just putting a mark in that saw the old traditional the way was using axes a lot of people use axes and and also froze were used as well so it's really as do different traditions the other thing is I've got this mortising axe made by grants for Brooks but there are a lot of the companies who are making them as well and all I'm going to do now is just following that line it's in the back of the axe with a would never metal against metal in this particular case not where you've got a really good fight axe cut I would the wedges okay metal against metal because we're going to use a sledgehammer because they've been designed to do this hasn't so with this one associate you take that score a little bit deeper it yeah I'm just creating a crack now scoring it across the timber okay so now we've got a good crack in there I'm now gonna change tools and I'm gonna put the throwing them all away I'm going to find one of the wedges now that we've got here and there is one that I've set up that's got a thinner and finer point to it so this is also quite heavy duty wedges ah yeah there are they're good quality wedges you can see they've done a bit of work what we'll end up doing is we're going to put two in one about a third of the way in and another one a third of the way in from the other side and it's just basically we're going to we see a sonic yet now what I've got to try and do is follow the natural split of the timber it's following the grain basically that's what's happening so I've got one started there and I want to try and get one just below that on the other side it will go I'm just going to open this up so here the spit is running off yeah a little bit so what you do you trying to bring it back it's trying to bring it back in a little and I think it's just the way the trees and growing and one of those things will just have a go we're going to drive a wedge into there now see how just naturally it's following the grain yeah it just wants to split that way so we're going to have to do what the tree tells us work with it see by driving that in these two wedges are falling out because we've opened the growing up in here it's cracking as we go yeah no it's it's not as erst a straight ground a lot of light as you can see if you look down the length of the tree the tree is actually twisty so it's although it looks straight after it's been growing it's been twisting around for the light interesting so again until you open up the tree it's very difficult to to read though and this is what we've got somebody else fell the I didn't actually fell this but so it was felled for me so I'm gonna it's relaxed a bit now and I'm gonna drop few more wedges you hear that cracking okay need to do how's your splitting it we started off with two in the end and then we put one here to open the cut up but because we've got this movement of the tree twisting as we're growing the it's causing us a bit of an issue but we'll get around it then what we do is we start working in pairs so we've got two together and then I've just put this third one in which is the one that was here and we drop will drive these two in and we can then remove this third one out and then that can be brought forward so you're working that safe oh yeah basically yep so it's just working down the tree as you can see the probably the bottom of the cut is still connected so we're going to have to at some point really get into that and it might well be with just after to the tree over and work from the other side here they're cracking that's we've not touch that for a year four minutes you can still hear a little as it's driving the the five as a part you know just caught another one just hear it yep really just forcing those fibers apart straps we'll need every see these are fibers inside yeah this is just the fibers of the grain holding together and they just split in all different directions not a lot we can do about that we just have to sever the dam out and it's okay at this end it's it's become more fibrous referred to as a well this is actually a mortising ax which has got a long thin part head to it they the strapping axes were actually a lot longer than that but for the smaller trees this is probably adequate enough and this is designed to Cox's split the yeah I was basically yes as I say this one's desired for more to seeing cutting out mosses made by grants for Brooks but for this particular application this is it's a good tool as well been a long thin axe head for getting into the sort of splitting those straps that we've got inside there's stuff to be a bit a wedge here so the goal here an instruction with fibres basically yep that's it so there's one in there which and I'd just take it up here I mean on over got some straps here today but you see all these here were just that side we've got two wedges trapped in that end you see now good from this side here how really twisted that timber has been grown just one of those things well so what's the tool that you're using to turn right this is a lot as a PV so basically it's a hook on one end and there's a rough portion here and I can rather than us rolling and twisting hot back I can actually just leave it quite simply / outside and you can now start to see where the crack all the strapping is really opening up yeah it's quite a strange tree in that respect oh well what I'm going to do now we've got basically a wedge starting here sorry a cut start in there because we've got the wedges to the other side so now you basically separate the fibers it yes that's it this happens but it's all well won't strain this is what you're getting with so much is it's the just the just the way it's grown out there in about see how it's split and split there's really not follow the grader so all well though what I'm going to do is now I've just severed that one I'll try and put another wedge in this side this is going extremely bad doesn't yeah it's a spiral all grown and bodies would I just turn this into firewood to be asked but this is this is dying to what you get with unmanaged timber so let me just check that on its side yeah and you can see now how badly so as we motion there's a twist isn't it quite a skier on this one so what we've now done Sonos a juke joint space and we put it on two to three foot to two bearers basically and what we want to do is we're going to ping a chalk lie on this edge down here okay I'm gonna then put a vertical line we're gonna wax off the worst of the Timbers who have got a dead flat so what we'll end up doing is we're putting notches in it like the old timber framing skills we'll put a bit of a notch in and then we can knock off the box and then we'll use a a broad axe to clean up the surface so it is socially giving us a flat edge - a flat edge yeah and so the way you've held these in place this is quite interested I'm not seen this before so what is referred to as Imber dogs they're basically if you have a look this one's got a a flat which goes in line with the grain running in the tree here and then on the other end this actually got a flat in the opposite 90 degree direction so it's actually hitting the grain in that direction to you you're not going against the fibers you're just driving into in line with the fibers I see that's quite solid you look at that last never seen this before timber framed houses were build exactly like this they would have cleft a big oak tree and traditionally there would have been pits on but originally they would have been cut out with just acts and lines like this and also the hammer you use in this is a these are made in Birmingham or word I'm not I think the company's still going and made by a company called Thor which is based in Shirley this one was made in Birmingham so there it's got a leather there's two rawhide leather faces with a cast iron head and an ash handle never seen it with a lever thing yeah that they get different size some you get copper the end sum you get plastic in the end some that they're all different applications for different crafts and jobs but this one's got a great four they're actually doing similar framing because you can strike a chisel without damaging the end with this leather face and these are replaceable first thing yeah not quite wait they come in different weights as well so this wasn't well is this size reference you can get number ones number two's number three's and before so they're basically in axes and pounds so that's what they were referring to but the largest one I've got of these is probably about a three pound head wowza yeah and some of the big slicks and chisels that I've got you just need to be able to drive it in your way if I can help it and driving those into the grain and you can see that is quite solid and they're easily removed you just tap it mags and where you go so a good way of locking in timber you just have to keep make sure that you've got them locked in properly when you're accessing traditionally they'd have had somebody stood on top of these logs but because this is quite thin and it's right on its edge anyway we're gonna have to do a slightly different method so using a chalk chalk chalk tape basically just called chalk line and what we're going to do is we're going to ping a line down that there's a reference point you can see from here there's a big chunk that's got to come off in effect to create a flat bed and there's several other tools that we're going to be using to to make that so I'm just guiding myself to where that is there and you can see down the length is quite a bit of a chunk of timber it's got to come off and we're going to cut little axe cuts into this and then strike them off okay so what I'm going to do there is just hold that pull it tight and then we're going to ping it like so we've created ourselves a lines here okay we've set it up on these bearers haven't we yep okay we've got our timber dogs on what we're going to be using is we're going to create some V channels into this so basically they'll be cut out like so there'll be another one in there [Music] like so and that's basically what we're going to be shopping at and then with an axe we'll come down and we'll take these bolts off to create a a straight surface won't be quite rough but that's what we're going to do I'll do that all the way along where we need to following that blue chalk line and then from it so if you look at it from a side view or top view down so here's the log resting on the bearers okay like so and if you have a look we're going to be cutting notches like this looking down from the top just a single forest axe really accentuate the rights a lot of stock cuts so now that haven't set one massive slice off yeah you're just controlling it by taking and then what you can do is you can take each and avenges your little section off at a time perfect okay so you go then you've got a flat surface or reasonably flat surface then we'll go into the broad axe and then we'll start to clean it up and that's all done on that that situation so then what we've got then is take that off then as we what we've got then is we've got the log on its side nice and flat on the bearers I've got our timber dogs in yeah and what we're going to do is then there'll be a broad axe that will come down the surface with a cranked handle like so we'll be chopping it down sideways to take off even more surface of the timber and then we can then get a nice smooth finish once you've got that we can then make a mark down the middle and then start to work out the real true body sighs perfect okay so you've marked a vertical line just on the edge yeah so basically you go either get a level or you plumb line it and so that's so you've now got a nice vertical line that you're going to cut to so so here on top you've now carved the a couple of notches and we would go all the way down following that vertical line on the end to a point where it meet metres out and you can see what's happening because of the wind we've got to do on the top we're cutting away here but on the bottom of this end if you come round on look at the end of this then you'll see that it's a bit too good boy is on the other side right so we're going to have to chop out at the bottom you can see the wine down the length and we're just going to use the tree to its advantage now this is where we're going to start working it so these are the fees that you've basically chopped into yep and then from here you're not use and then we're gonna once these all done then you're going sideways basically yeah so what you would do is you'd sort of be careful how you stand you don't want to be leaving your leg over that side because you miss bang you could come into it there are some guys that will we'll stand over the top or you can stand like this but if you glance off it will come into you so you've got your route so I always try and stay on this side of it that's right mm-hmm and you can see I'm just going to now stop knocking off the timber because you put that v-shape in we're now starting to shape it I'm not going to get too particular this axe because I'm going to use a broad axe a little bit later that you'll clean all this off all I'm doing is I'm removing waste so this is quite a small axe really it's a little forest that's I mean the other axes I've got I've got six and seven pounders oh well felling up season these probably for that job do the job you can see so obviously we're focusing strict on hand tools but just just to for the purposes of the video and kind of like documenting this this is someone obviously if you were using power tools you would use a chainsaw as well want you to do these exact same stock cuts with a chainsaw it's it's said that you can actually it's 10 times 10 month days work is basically grab back by using a chainsaw as against an axe right so I remember going back years ago I was involved with a log boat and that was the sort of timings that they were working on so for every one day that you work with the chainsaw it would be 10 days as an axe so this is obviously just for demonstration purposes yeah associative so we've done the to stop cuts there with the with the with the axe work and we could carry on and do that all the way through not a problem I'd quite happily do that but but for other safer just for purposes say we can speed up the process by putting in some notches with a chainsaw and because we've got that line here which is giving us that vertical we're going to create that coming all the way down I'll be coming back with a broad ax later on to finish it off and clean it off not sure so all I'm doing is just speeding up the process I'll just get myself kitted up this is a cordless chainsaw recent purchase and it's great because it's not as noisy great from environmental areas triple-s s eyes that we've got around the country now we are actually advocating the use of these so what SSI refers to the de category which it falls into yeah well situs of Scientific Interest through my actual site the Scientific Interest to give it its full title and a lot of these areas now because of the flora and fauna in them we can't be using chainsaws that are well basically promoting you know poisonous gases and and oils into the environment so again there's pros and cons with this you're not going to get a really high rated chainsaw but they're there ok anyway just get kitted up and we'll do a little bit of cutting you're not fully there we go still some fibers to be had so we've got two bearded axes or ones more like the old Kentish style pattern that's sort of big open broad axe but it's this slightly year it is sided the only problem is with this is I I pick this up some time ago but the handle isn't tanked can you see the difference in the handles yeah yeah so using this one you're gonna knuckle yourself or catch your knuckles quite a lot so I always try and show you that buying second hand tools isn't all nice head don't get me wrong but the handle isn't quite fitted right right so but it would still cut a certain amount this axe so if you can see it's got a can't handle so the handle is slightly offset great for if you're right-handed side axe so as the blade hits the timber your handle is away from the the actual cutting line and see that interest I never knew that about a hurdle yeah so always bear in mind when buying a large bearded if you got one second hand to look at just be aware that which way the handles go the handles going right so this is where you can stand over the log and we're going to be cutting trying to cut down to that line as best as possible just coming up towards you can rosette so just okay no we're just smoothing it off this is where the other end of the log isn't quite right so we can still work on that you see actually cutting across the grain which works really well what one thing what you're doing out here what did I forgot to discuss and obviously for the folks that are watching so obvious in this particular instance we're using ash you know more the other good wood that people could use to kind of well with ash a boss it's pretty much anything you can get old off it's a biased I mean I've made Shay bosses in oak in ash in Sycamore ash is a bit more residual strength in it Sycamore can be quite weak birch I'd steer clear it off is too soft but the heads really want to be using the dumb heads which we're not talking about but if you use - it's got a lot of residual strength you know they used to use the morris - the travel is on the back well those were all Ashford framed very very strong some of the other car makers that use ash think Morgan their frames were made from ash so I ideally you want to use the heartwood basically yes a good hardwood oak is really heavy but you sweet chestnut you can use but that's quite soft but it still make good shave horses the end of the day it's a tool that you're using and you just have to regularly maintain what happens in the ice in the woods it's the legs that get really badly rotted so you've got to be aware under a shelter you're okay but in the woods it's the it's the moisture coming up into the ground which is going to rot off so the beauty is is if you don't fix the legs but have a deep deep seat like this and the legs will just sit in it with it with the mortise and a year and basically those you can replace with yeah and then you can just replace those as and when you need to so we're just looking at the length so this is five and a half eight this one yeah just over yep just over far enough so this will be marked off halfway so you've done from that end to two back there nice and then we can be using this for other parts of the you know we can cleave that up but uh because it's a wider bit down there we can keep that for the seat and then we can clean this up and this will be the body but what will happen now is we when we finish cleaning this off I will then take the dogs off and we will then get a mark up a central line down it and we'll then measure about seven inches across that we three and a half inches either side of that central line and then we'll cut that out as well now ideally I'd have liked to have split that will click left it off but because of the the wine did it I'm not too sure we're gonna get anything out of it but we'll give it a go even if I make a cut in the right point we'll do it that way so largely this is pretty pretty level isn't it this at the moment they're in everywhere but it's pretty much straight for the purposes that I want for this particular time we're going to be doing some other cleaning up with other tools yes pretty much there right so what we're gonna do now is I'm gonna ask you to basically with the PV lock it and then hold it in place as I take these off perfect so what you're gonna do is just hold that up and I'm gonna remove these so and you're going to lower that back there and gently try not to process it wonderful so what we're going to be doing now now we've got it lying down we're going to be chalk lining a central point all the way down the timber and bearing in mind we're going to be cutting this down to five foot so the end piece will get used for parts on the the rest of the frame so we're now going to just make sure we've got this centralized and I'm just saying it's round about 11 inches so that'll be five and a half they're important when you measure at this points to discount the box isn't it discount the bark yeah completely and oscillates the actual timber bear anymore we are going to cut a little bit this off to put a chamb fur on the ear a sidewall on it anyway so it's not going to be that with the same applies down here we know that's a five-foot roughly there and we said that's ten and three quarters and make that five and through three eighths so that's the central line there so if you can hear it if you'd like to just come and get us a hand with this just ask you to hold that on at that point their website okay so we're over the the pencil line and I'm just going to night ting that that's given us a central line all the way down so this is all what's up Daniel yep now what we're going to do it's from that central line we know we're going to have a seated area up around this area and I'll probably come back down about 18 inches or so that's just going to be a rough measurement so that'll be your seated area which we're going to creates saddle effects mm-hmm and then from there on in what I'm going to be doing is taking three and a half inches as a central point we're going to mark up seven and on the outer edge there okay you see the two marks you've come in how much you know that's that's I've taken going off the central line the blue line yeah where the three and a half inch mark is I'm going to go three and a half inches that way and three and a half inches that way so it'll be seven and obviously a nor there so we've gotten we're now going to have a body of seven inches in width which is quite a wide one we could bring it down to six so that'd be three the side which is quite an you know but you're not going to get much of a piece of wood in there so we're going to go for seven okay bit of a compromise you could go even wider but then you're gonna have a really heavy body mm-hmm so we're going to be got we've got to play play around with the design and I'm gonna do the same down this end here so we've got three and a half so you know that's roughly where the outer edges and seven there so we've now got two lots of lines know what I'm going to do is ping those lines again I'm going to ping no there we go so now you can see we've got a nice straight line then there's a reef cat this central monitor give you the central point to work out from yeah then the alt two lines are where obviously we have the seating area here yeah on this bottom section and then but here it's gonna be brought into so basically what we're going to be doing from this here we're going to be cutting this in yeah like so now we're going to create this saddle defect on here and then this is and then I'll be down to that line and we'll cut that end off there okay and that will be used for the other part of the frame so we've cut the end bit off yep what I'm gonna be doing now is although this has got to have some further work on the top we have got to make a right angle cuts to create a side part to the to it and I'm just going to put a mark like so and then another mark gently there and what I'm just going to check and how parallel that is that's seven and that's just over seven I suspect one of these is just like the a just like that but it gives us a little bit to work out so now that we've obviously taken the size of this off we're starting to look at the actual shape now of the young of the Shay force so what you've done you've actually elevated the height Avenue photos which is great for The Cider big side acts that we were using or broad acts to clean the sides off there'll be a lot more work to do on the tops of these yet so we've just got it to a rough level I've got other tools that we're going to be using on this so we've raised it up to a height we've got these timber dogs backing on these high benches and that's quite stable okay the next thing we're going to work on is the the actual saddle of the the shave horse and if you we sort of refer back to your old one behind it you can see the sort of addition to it you can lay to day add a little back to it as well and there's all sorts of things going on and just to recap you you yeah so you don't need the the depth of these this ain't up to this line here yeah and then at the back here we can have a flat platform that could attach a vise if so needed you could use this for for drilling on all sorts of things a bit multi-purpose a bit multi-purpose it's your black & decker of the back in the day and it's so that's what it's it that's what it is really in effect and now what we're going to do is we're going to dig out using an adze the shape of the of the seat or the the saddle and basically we're going to scoop it down so when you're sat on it your legs come down the side of either side of it and referring back to the old one it just gives you that nice comfortable shape to sit in so if you're sitting in these all day it becomes quite a you just got a flat seat it isn't a very pleasant way of working on my shave horses I tend to put a shape skin or something on it anyway just to give it a bit of added comfort again on adapted shave horses I've seen like the chairs for the Windsor chair saddles you know they obviously host fitted on so you can actually have quite a thin plank and with the seats it sat on to it but this is a slightly different type because we're just making it out of a straight log oh we have to work with that so digging out the the shape of the seat so very mine we've got to be going downhill with it and we'll be working in slightly different directions so what I'm going to be doing is just chopping out starting we could have done this with a slightly bigger it's just this is what I've got here we made today small hand adds and then I'll have got some bigger bolster our lads this we're not going to be going to do with it and once I've got a bit of a I'm going to come round that side of you but if you want me to work on this side said and then you can see what's happening I can come across brain so you bouncing around a little bit so be careful here so just starting it off little cuts are with a bowl and then you can work across brain so pushing for you if someone watching it doesn't happen out there another toilet could be well you could work it out with the I suppose an axe and then if you've got there I say Stephens spoon knives you could probably shape it out if you've got a saw you could cut out so much and knock off the shape and then work it with it with an axe you there is ways and means of doing that what would the gouge work a gag should work equally as well a big if you've got a big gage you know an open a slight hammer with that that would work equally as well I mean I've just got an hour's it's just really a gauge with the handle the largest handle on isn't it an effect see how I'm just going across the grain and I'm working up to that midpoint line now I'm just going to work back we're going to get quite deep here at this point along here and then it's going to come up quite to a shallow point so that will be sitting in like a saddle in effect on any edges catching our legs so though we've got this edge here this will be quite rounded so it doesn't touch the underneath of our leg just rough marking I didn't I work by sight a lot on my stuff so you just took the ergonomics of the back of seat though yeah yeah so you it will be a bit of a depression there yeah both your butt cheeks will sit in there and there'll be a slight raise as a crest in here but it's just going to be enough for you to get a nice seat and not feeling too sustainless you know in a very professional manner would it be a difference with the women and men when it comes to the shape another say would you say well each seat should be made to the individual person that's the key thing and yes H indeed if are in the world each seat will be different so if you're making your own you really want to be sitting on it and just say how it doesn't feel quite right let's take a bit more out of that though it's just you know you'll get a basic shape where most people will fit in but some people will want it slightly different to others and I I would just urge anybody who's going to make one is to sit on it and just sit on it for a short while get the main roughing out done sit on it think yeah that's got to come out a bit more you may find this edge all this edges - he's not rounded enough so you'll need to take more out of that really just taking that edge right over and we're just going to ran that edge right off and all this is all this edge here will we get taken off anyway with it with the other tools here it's going to be a bit more of a depression coming out there's quite a bit more to come out of this bit yet in terms of what I think this would take for any mine we've had a bit of a problem with the splitting or cleaving of this timber anyway because of the year the wind on it I would have thought somewhere in about two days you could have most of this made mm-hm so there's a you don't necessarily need to put a saddle on it you could have a really nice just a piece of eternal that's just got a flat bottom to it hasn't got to have a saddle like this sown it's got a lot of it roughed out with the adds so what are these are tools over here these are these are all in shades or scopes as some people might call them and we've got various ages of score from these older versions which are probably Cooper's tools I would have thought and you see the different curves and shaves shapes to them these are more modern made ones we've got a flatter surface here which is quite a good for chair making and I believe that's the German made version this one's made by rails and friend of mine he makes and manufactures this so basically they are just curved draw knives mm-hmm so like you would with a flap draw knife you draw them towards you so if I sort of removed the ones I'm going to use the more modern ones these tight curves are very good for getting in the the edges in here see and we may just use that to finish off the seat but for predominant Li I'm going to be using these two over here to remove the timber and start with the flatter version one which is basically say your stand and you'll pull the the tool towards you what you're aiming for is a nice thin shaving I'm just going to take the high spots off and we're just trying to make it smooth all the way through so it's just a very nice green timber it's it's quite easy to work now you can see why the deeper curves are obviously useful that nice flat blade there is a slight curve on that but I can't quite get in to that curve in there and over here it will be quite quite difficult to take off the and they've also got be mindful of the way the grains right that's been going downhill and across the grain see if I cut back that way we're cutting up into the grains is just gonna flare up it was a bit like spearing carving just got to be aware of which way the knife is running with the grain no we're working it down this is just a tool to get it flattened down we're going to be using other tools like a Travis you yes we could get into a chair making territory and get it really finally finishing that's up to you but it's a working tool this at the end of the day so this is a more tightly curved yeah this is a tighter curved and shaving I'm just so what you're buying these how do you know think the curvature what kind of reference points are looking for janessa so go to a website and it's well it's individual makers are making them as they see fit I mean obviously the German made version over there I'm just I can't off the top of my head to actually think who makes that one they will find out this one he doesn't see rails and this is his style of chair making I expect he's been to several makers and they've come up with this version which is not too dissimilar so the Cooper style curve yeah you see that that's almost the same shape this is obviously a Cooper's tool Cooper's barrel making is that yeah this is more for chair making so it's a flatter tool and this is probably quite good makeup for for most chair makers things this is quite a tight curve in here cuz the way of the shape that we're working so I think that it's a combination of the Cooper style score and in shape is useful for this tool and you'll see later on that I've got the tip traverses of different grades there's a a number six and the number four which is predominately what I use on my chair making and the number six should out adequately work this really big territory so these kneel what is you've got in your hands oh well these are some tools I've made of their Travis's I'll have the blades made up by a local blacksmith some of my early ones were made by Ben Horford but these have been made up by another guy called Richard Weaver he made up the metal work and then I've come up with this sort of shape which sort of sits in a hand very well they're basically like a curved spokeshave but they're curved in not only in that direction but also this direction slightly again a bit like a spokeshave this one's a number six which is the deepest curve this one is a number four slightly shallower and I've got others all the way down to zero which is a flat flat version and basically how we use these is making sure the blade is obviously a way from us and we'll hear you know I'm just cleaning up the top of this I'm just pointing the way the grain and I know that the grain is here is running up to me so you can see in that spiral the grain has changed even though we're trying to put a flat so that the grain is coming up this way here and here it's moving that way so I just like be really conscious of its way the grain runs in both ways doing it just flat yeah just I'm following the grain again as I mentioned before the grain outside is coming this way the grain this side is coming this way so it's obviously as its twisting around the tree that movement that wind in the tree see how much easier that was really working with the grain that way now if I just come back round this way and I'll work the opposite direction you see how it's just pulling up mmm that just shows you've got to work with the grain so for those watching that maybe don't have this particular tool could they use just a normal plane yeah normal plane is fine but what this is doing is putting a little scoop a cutter curved and you get like this fluted almost like the patterns in the sand when they cease being around and I quite like to me that's just facet work and it just knows it's handmade if you get it all you know belt sanded or flattened with with sand as you just lose a little bit of a salt and it's a bit like the finger marks in a that a Potter and his pots and that's what it is with green woodworking it you're working with a at all which is putting some marks in and then tell that what worker is done how good his tools were how sharpest tools are or in the sir some of the archaeologists that go round looking at old cathedrals there you can look at the timbers in them and they can actually wear okay which which person has worked which bit of timber because of the ax marks Wow so he's got a chip in his ax or whatever they could tell it was here me whoever he was the other key thing is if this is yet flat but a roughish surface when you're with your wedge that will sit on here that's going to keep the the ramp coming up it actually will grip the timber a lot better so you don't it dead flat answer because it can just scoot around all over the place like a normal plane or a scrub plane basically scrub planes got a slightly curved iron okay and that's what I would use on this it's just that I'm using this tool because we're you you know I've done the seat within it it works just equally well now to remove a lot of timber with this from the axe cuts that I probably didn't know I'm doing I'm just working the surface like let's say other people will do other things this is just my way of doing it because it's the tools I've got to hand and like anybody else will use what they've got in their arsenal that's all I would say to anybody and what's gonna happen is because it's really good so you are motioning off camera B obviously this is Greenwood but like yeah if you can imagine now this is the underside of the log so the log it's on the top if the pith line to stay on the middle so this part of the log will actually smile away from the center of the timber so you'll end up if you have a look at this yeah and what's happened is it's it's it's actually shrunk what's happened is all the cell structure inside the timber closes up and they all pull together so what you may have done flat here is actually twisted and choked so that's what will happen to that interesting so and what you'll do is you'll come at some point in a few months time and you're just playing it back it'll take a good good while for this to dry out maybe a couple of years left out in the open like this also that longer yeah yeah it to AirDroid a one inch plank to air-dry it will take an inch of thickness per year to dry how was it was that long that's only getting it down to 15% yeah lucky to try and get that dry so you've got what four inches there so to get it down to 15% you probably going to get about I don't know two three maybe four years at maximum and that's what's happened to that over the time so that's quite an old I don't know 10 50 it years old now maybe something like that still going okay the Train needs replacing the body's okay legs might need replacing and that's the beauty of them as they've where it just added its to it so you know there'll be shave horses I'm sure in the country that's been going on bit by bit and when the body goes then that's the time to replace everything no from here is feel quite a bit a bit of a crown on it a lot more but I'm not going to be too bothered the end of the day it's it isn't like we need to if you take this off use it as a flat surface for working on them yes you will need to play in it but for just as the purposes of the shave force that's that's fine in my book but no not what we've got a do now the next section is just really work this a bit more so that it fits your posterior yeah well fix your leg a bit better and what I'm going to do is actually just chop that a Jack there round that off do the same on this side so that your leg will sit into that I'm gonna get the ads and we'll do this is it this one yeah they got it from off eBay actually but it was it's an East German made one and it was in a real rough state to handle it all rotted my Mac sorry grind it and it's been reprofiling a a few people are no bowl cars have used it and they've added additions to it and with the grade of the angles of the sharpening and grinding and so it's had a little bit of work on the inside as well as the outside great for doing bowls by the way but it'll work on this sort of work as well so it's actually quite a deep cut on it see what I'm trying to do is just round this edge yeah so and again we can just take it out in there right in there so long story short for folks that are following the law just basically use whatever tools you have to have just to get similar basically yeah you might have a gauge recommend you if you've got a deep gauge you could easily do that with this and then work you down with the flutter gauge to get it smooth and then with a scraper blade you get it down to that but the end of the day you just want to curve it doesn't matter if there's a a slight raised faceted feel to it cuz I quite like that anyway as a look and and at the end of the day to working tool that's the key thing with this so it's taken a long while to get to this point but it's all been done by hand pretty much so no we're just porting obviously in between novices shaping the the main part of the shape horse with the hand tools now obviously what you're demonstrating now is do the same process that we use with wedges and the axes to split the main lock in half and now you're doing it with a chain saw is that correct yeah what we're using no you say a milk I'll ask your mill on a three foot big glass chainsaw and what we're gonna do is we've actually cut that in half now to create two large glitches in effect one would be the body the other part which is been left on that log we're going to Mill a plank off that which is gonna be about one and a half inches in thickness and the reason now that we've done that we can actually we've opened it up and you see quite the story of the tree of how it's grown really you have a look here of its in its early days as a tree's quite handy and sinuous all the way through the pith line which suggests that although it looks a nice straight tree that's why we had all that wined in the in the other tree yet the other one we were working yesterday so that's why we're showing you how to mill it as well to get decent in the route of it notice it needless to say the chainsaw and gasnet side of things you only do it obviously if you're trained and yeah fully trained to go through courses for just basic courses and then you really need if you're gonna buy these things you really need to get get some training with them as well because they are quite fearsome yeah perfect so with this one obviously the goal is videos to show you the different variations that how you the process the timber hands and obviously now we're looking at chainsaws so are you ready to go then yeah I'm so good to go so what we've got here we've got some wedges set up and these will actually be fed into the cut as we move through just to keep the cut open so it doesn't bind with the chain [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so here we have the finish plank mill yeah as you can see we've opened it up and you can see they're telling the story of this tree is not it's not been a well grown two dead knots here obviously the branches that have grown off and broken off or died in it's a light drops away and the trees grown around it yeah you can see just by milling that this tree must have been under quite a lot of stress but because it's just opened up literally seconds ago on both ends so in terms of a plank we'll get stuff out of it because we're going to break this down into smaller parts so I'm not too bothered but this will obviously get cut out and we'll be using here and along here and these two bits here so we'll get some decent timber for what we want which is the frames of the of the shave horse so there we are but amazing isn't it I love opening up the trees in this respect because it tells the story of how the trees grown in this case not very well so but this has come from a plantation where it stopped being maintained for 40 odd years so Neil the Nick's face is using the offcuts and I'm all right in saying you're now going to make a legs yeah we're going to play this in half these are obviously the the pieces that were taken off and we're not usable for the the actual body but we don't waste it which one use as much oh that's the the tree as we can so we'll get a couple of legs out of this and I have another piece that we've got will make the third leg for the shave horse there going to be a tapered leg so it'll be thicker at the bottom coming up to a 1 and 3 inch tenon at the top perfect or good to go ok so what we're gonna do is you're going to cleave this and by using a maul and a frog and how I start using a throat is I just raise it so the tip I'll just using the finger the tip is just on the edge of the timber we're doing it if we sort of measuring up its try and get it halfway around the box I so half and half that's how Emily trying to split it in indirectly in half see where I strike is above that point where the throw is touching the timber is a slight gap here and we just give it a good strike and that's now locked it in and now what I'm going to do is I'm going to strap that off and then we can see where that point actually takes us in terms of the timber now because I've left a bit of the bill sticking through I can actually drive them down I can then turn it round that throat just to make the bill stick out a bit further turning it round striking it again and you can see the crack that's opening up following the way the grain direction is okay oh it just keep going now I know I'm at a point now and feel the tension and timber is removed and I can now leave or this now put my hand over the back end and there's two or three ways well a couple of ways you can either push or pull towards you but so what I tend to do is put me up against it holding it and pulling towards me you see domes the cup or leave ring that way the Frodo and that leaves me with two halves now what I'm going to try and do now is I'm going to split this again actually and get rid of the waste on this edge piece because that's too thin for anything and we're going to get two nice legs out of that so pop that down on that side there and I'm going to create again half and half ish trying to lose this waste piss piece and leave us with a nice big piece of timber here so raising up there's just the matter of twisting the timber around hitting the furrow in different directions and just being house is going to split trying to keep it fairly straight as we go right just here timber packing yep now we're not far off one more Drive that should well that's just gone straight right that's great so there we've got our leg well the one leg made up and we could potentially get another leg out of that it's a bit narrow at that end though but you could maybe a chair leg or something for making those so nil we've cleared off the pieces and now are you going to be using the axe to do what to shape it up yeah we're going to create a rounded leg from you see this triangular shaped piece okay we're going to take the corners off and get it into a round tapered leg the end here will be a 1 and 3/8 mortise sorry tenon to fit into a mortise of the same size which will fit in there base but there's a lot of work to be undertaken we've got an axe and draw knife our way to that so how to start with that I actually hold this to the back sort of 60 degrees the axe is a side action as you can see it's got a flat on the one side so this is a right-handed side axe a normal that's was supposed to for the average person yeah if you've got it but what will tend to happen is with the saw and all the side axes sorry uh normal acts as the bevel goes in it will tip to the side a little bit so you got be aware of that with you with your hand what I would suggest most people do is choke the axe like this so you hold it right right up both your head but all I'm going to be doing is tiny little cuts like feather cuts and I'll just give you an example so starting at the bottom we're just going to do tiny little cuts coming up like this severing the fibers up to halfway and you can see we've got these feathers coming off and they just easily break off yeah so in the timber I'd want to right just work our way up you see I'm keeping the axe vertical and the Timbers at about sixty degrees and when I come to take off those I just raise the timber up keeping the axe were to go all the time move them off turn it around okay and then we're going to take the bark off as well so we've got it almost sort of six sided and we're going to work this a little bit more just to take the corners off flatten the Mac a bit more so we'll end up with a six sided piece of timber so I'm just going through around you haven't actually got it you could keep them quite triangular shapes as well if you wish so that will give you a bigger footprint on the on the ground so imagine we can tidy that up and that and perhaps we'll do that with this one take the corners off take the back off okay so we've got this sort of tapered shape bear in mind we're going to bring this down even more at the end here so this will be a one and three-eighths tenant so that's nearly there I'm just going to take this end off here you can see there's a few straps from the 12 inch we've got to remove we don't want any cracks showing in the timber and that's probably so especially be the end where the tendon is going is slightly thinner basically yeah I'm what I think we'll do is we'll keep it a nice triangular shape big chunky and heavy so it'll sit on the ground well but this will then get shapes from a triangular shape to the round shape and what we're going to do that is now go on to the Shay force to do that so with the X you would just want to mention something didn't you yeah just about safety it's it's really just so people are safe when using it I've talked about choking up the axe which allows you to control the head a lot easier than holding it down here where the weight of the handle will move around I've also taught this particular block which I use has got this up stand here so it stops the timber moving outwards you can hit that quite happily and it doesn't move off the block I know a lot of people use the blocks and they'll have a depression in it and hold it in but you still get a lot of movement in the in the the timber so putting it up like so now with ax work I tend to want to put my what I teach is I tend to want to put the piece of timber towards the other side of the axe block that leaving you plenty of space on this side so for the axe should you miss to go into the block is it ultimately you don't want to be chopping here if you miss the block it could end up being in your leg so if you're having out here you're chopping and if you miss it's going to hit the block one final thing when you're chopping stand to the left with it if you're a right-handed box user stand to the left of the line of the axe so that if you did miss the block it's going to miss you okay so and that's just basic safety really and that way you should remain safe so if you do miss and it bounces out that's what - all happen it'll hit the block not you the other final thing is when you've finished with the axe I tend to either stand it up or in this case just place it underneath the block that way it's not going to hurt anybody what a what I don't use and I don't advocate these people around in the axe into the the chopping block a lot of people use chopping blocks and stand on to get to height from whatever so you might get griten everything in here and you're going to slam into that that's not what you want don't I just tend to leave it on the ground nice and safe okay so now we're on the shape horse nailed in there yeah so now we've got this setup I'm using this nodding donkey style Shay force it's the one that I tend to use we're making the the old watches pattern shape horse but this is the one I tend to use myself it's more general purpose shape horse and claps well do lots of things with this even spoon carving and have you I've seen people use it for so again nice seating position whenever you again safety wise try not to hold and move the timber around so you don't want to be holding a shame horse cause I can tip around and and cut the back of your hand so always try to pop the shut blade away from you and then you can move the timber around in the shade Bors quite happily to two hands okay get it secure make sure that you've got enough pressure with your foot on the treadle so that timber doesn't come out on putting up and do it not too much pressure but there's enough there for it not to slide out and hit me in the chest which is what can happen if you don't put enough pressure another thing that I use on this type of shave horse is this little bit of a leather patch here and it just grabs grabs the timber and we can do the same on the okay so it's not gonna be a fine piece of furniture although you can make while you'll do this I mean my son like a bit of a dark question but someone doesn't have a capable to do this precisely to make yeah well you could actually I have seen shape horses sorry draw knives used in in advice you know with them with a vise so you could actually clamp and user you just have to be extra careful that you do hold both hands and you get a good standing position and work with that ultimately it's always nice to have a sit-down so we're just gonna be nice and green I'm just sorting out the leg you know it's just a triangular shaped leg at the end of the day but what will happen is we're going to turn that around and now we can start to bring this day always make sure when you're using a shape a draw knife you have both hands around it and a good grip with your thumb there's two ways of using it you can see from this I've actually got the flat of the draw knife down cuz I'm just smoothing it off really an effect but if you really want to dig in you can turn it over the other way so that bevel is down and that really does bite into the ear and see how much hard that they sit today so I'm using it that way around we have on the compass shape shaking it off getting rid of all those cuts we're gonna try and turn it into a rounded shape you get a bit of a piece of timber it's sort of these difficult is a bit naughty and it guides what you can do let's see if that's grap like so you can actually lift by twisting your wrists it just lifts and the fibers will all open up they can finish you off what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna start rounding off the top here okay a bit more work on this I think just to try and take down a little bit so Neil now that has been shaped up with a draw knife what's next alright so the next thing is what I'm going to do is put a round tenon on this I know it's green a lot of people put the Tenon's on when they're when they're dry the legs and you can do that that's not a problem but because we're trying to get this all done throughout one session what I'm going to be doing is inserting this green and burning mind it's going to be tapered anyway so the shoulder at the end is what's going to lock it into the mortise so we're going to put in a tenon round about two inches in length and that will sit neatly into the base of the the chez Paul's body so how I do this again we're still sitting on our show you force we can clamp it and this is the beauty of it-- why I like this particular shape because it allows me to do these legs so what is it you use in here there so this is around a plane this is a very old one I inherited this there are a comfort there is a company called ash and crafts that make these in Britain I think they're still operating so this is a version of that they used to be a guy here in Telford who used to make these but he passed away a few years back and used to do great big versions like those three inches in diameter this one is a size an inch and three eighths and it works really well with the the scotch I organ that I've got that pairs up to the tenon size on this right so it's just a matter of simply clamping the piece of wood in your shave horse and it's turning clockwise and as you can see put a bit of pressure we've got a blade which is well it is basically a spokeshave blade you're going to turn that and we create these shavings makes good fire lighting material when that's dry date you no good to you bushcrafting guys fantastic for those that don't have this tool would like just some refiner work life is tough you think you just use use your your your tenon cutters or sorry not any cuts of your scotch or get or your brace and bit whatever size you've got to and you could just drill a mark in the end so you know exactly what you've got so if it's an inch and three-eighths which is great or an inch you can put a tenon on that just mark it with the ears and that'll give you a mark that you can then draw knife down to bear in mind this is green so so the the end it would just give you a mark at the end and you could actually draw a knife it off very carefully to make life a bit simpler I'm using one of these now because it's tapered I'm just going to stop these that back and I'm just to show you we've got a brass ring in here which is a stop it rubbing basically the aluminium which is soft and you can see it's just starting to bite on the shoulder so on it happen get back we've not drawn off and I can just remove that down a little bit more and you can start to see there's a shoulder being built up here nice straight Tennant and then it's shouldered a just going to turn it round you see how it's rubbing on timber here so I'm just going to take that off as I say we're looking for a straight Turner we've only got about an inch on there at the moment I'm gonna look for about a two and a half inch maybe turnin on I'll sit neatly into the body just in the final shape you're not yeah just before I'm doing is on you're just making it look a bit frizzy oh that's all I want to do is I'm just grading it into that shoulder that becomes a sort of finished leg said nil moving on turn next face return the main piece on its head and so obviously this is the bottom part facing up we've clamped it down and now obviously you want to look at the placement of the legs yeah so where I'm stood is the the seat end of the shape horse and if you have a look briefly we've got a central point that I've marked out halfway between and I've come back about four and a half inches and from that central point I've done a two and a half inch marking she's going to give me that the center point for the holes and we're basically going to drill at about a twenty five degree angle and raking it out as well so we've got a rake and splay to give their legs well splayed out so they're basically bending out and embedding backwards basically so we don't have them out and vertical that way they're actually angled in two directions okay break and supply so that's on the back on the front end there'll be one leg straight down the middle like so so this is going straight out straight out but again that is angled out away from the body so you've got a three-point contact with the ground really well splayed out legs which is going to make it a good contact with the ground and it won't tip over then when you're sat on it perfect so that's a poor the holes what are you using right all I've got here is a one and three-eighths scotch I orga now the AIDA party's obviously this piece of the trap here and there's a hand wooden handle goes through and it's basically turned in a clockwise direction to cut the scotch part of the name of it is actually to do with the cutter you'll see if you've got a bracing bit you'll see that on the Jennings or Owens style pan there will be an ear here that cuts a nice true hole this is a bit more aggressive and a bit more of a rough cut to it but you'll see there's a sharp edge there and a sharp edge here and that just really cuts out a hole and obviously so you want this basically and stating the obvious here but for the purposes of the video it's going to be the same thickness as a tenant okay so this is one and three-eighths the the tenon cutter that we used previously has put the tenon all the rounder plain has put the tenant onto the end of the legs we're drilling out the mortise now which it'll be around Morse's okay good to go or good to go right what we're going to do now is we're just buying this in I don't I use about a twenty five degree angle so it's angling out 25 degrees from a vertical point here and also from a vertical point this way so they're well splayed out and I'm just going to twist and get the screw to bite into the timber once these are in position and adjusted you can alter them but you have to back them off and I'll I'll just talk through that as I'm doing it so now I've got it pretty much set at the angle that I want I'm gonna start drilling in and the lead screw on it just pulling it into the fibers and you can see now if you think that you've made a slight discrepancy with the angle what you can do is you can back back it off the reason you're doing that is you can actually know these lead through thread is in a slightly enlarged hole because you backed it off and you can alter it to suit which angle that you want okay and the reason that I say back it off because if you've got this lead screw if you try and bend that when it's in the wood tight you're likely to break the tip off and well that's just Mazal throw it away then that's a very useful tool that's gone so treat your tools with respect in application so let's go back to drilling now get it into the hole and happy with the angle [Applause] in terms of depth what are you looking at roughly right well there is two ways of looking at this you can do a stopped mortise so the hole doesn't come all the way through which we might do that in this case or you can go through mortise where the end of the leg sticks right through and you just cut that offices suit that way you know that you've got a real good depth of tenant inside the timber and it's up to you what do you want to do that if you want to be a structural point of view is there a difference between the one going through is obviously going to be stronger both from an aesthetic point of view if you only go so far you are not going to see a nasty hole the other side but you can you can read if you go through you can wedge it so the legs are permanently fitted we'll have a chat about that we've got them in but I think what we'll try and do with this because your your particular shave horse that you're making will need to have a removable legs so they don't need to go all the way through the only and I'm saying that because I'm almost minded if you do go all the way through you can actually tap the legs out with a pin the other side mm-hmm because if they if they are stuck it's a little bit awkward to try and pull them out you haven't got a throat mo so there's a pros and cons for both and it takes you what you want really so we've done now is we've drilled the the hole and it's gone in three and a half inches there abouts the actual tenon on this is about three inches so we're going to get a nice gap in the bottom so that means it's tighten up on the on the shoulder of this I'm going to tap it all the way in but I've tapped it in enough to give me guidance so when I drill the next hole mm-hmm so I've got something to refer to and if I get the the Scotch I organ act now this is the bit that everybody has a little bit of a problem with but now I'm looking at the central line that I've got here you can see now that I've got the reference point so long as the angles somewhere in there I can I can start drilling so just get the screw thread in this side should be okay all right just make sure I've got just back it off make sure I've got the angle right and I'm happy with the central position happy with that direction as well and then we're away so you can see by when the legs are in there's quite a distance apart at the bottom end quite tight at the top end but very far apart so that angle about 25 degrees from the vertical in both directions it's quite important so these through a red and now you're looking at the one at the back yeah so what I'm gonna try and do is I've got to make sure that we've vertical are down the line of the body and we're also going to do this 25 degrees from the vertical coming back this way so it's going to splay out about 25 degrees as we've had this in a sort of a bit of a triangle shape the back of the so this is the box so I'll always put inside the yeah it's pretty good good as I say that's tight but as this leg dries you'll probably need to just tap it in a bit more into the into the hole because of the shrinking because of the shrinkage so it'll go from around shape that we've got to a slightly oval shape and that's just not natural the green would work but because this is not a chair it's just a working tool the leg will will fit anyway because it'll just go down onto the tape and shoulder sit so that body's done happily Zac so here we go in all its glory the first face is looking at the business now new do the traditional booty check that's alright oh just saying before about using this as a another sort of bench as well as well as using a draw knife as a board you can actually use this back we can flatten off the back and use this as a clamp so you can actually have a round piece of timber for making cutting Tenon's on with your tenon cutters interesting so and again that just you're acting that half using that as a work surface as you were saying that we can also attach a clown comical yeah one of these little voices as well with this blue thread onto it and that will fit onto there as well and so you've got a little bit of a multi-purpose work bench really they can take the shows or whatever into the woods it all works so Neil what's next in the process here we we did cut this plank now had there not been a wind in the tree we'd have been cleaving these and draw knife in a mock and still do that but we plant this up yesterday with the machine so we've got you can tell this is really fresh and it must have hit the ground because we've had some shake come in it you see how and it's now showing the true colors of either tree started off in growth there's a bit but out of that we're gonna make four pieces so for the to shave horses this is the frame the side of the frame if you look on the old one there that we've had we've got it that's me made out of a branch but we're gonna be using two pieces gonna be a bit more stable with this what we're gonna do is I've got a measure about three and a half inches from this Liebert she will keep the live edge on on it and we're going to measure about 40 inches in length just to give us enough to be able to cut the true length of what we need I've got three 1/2 inch measurements on there I'm just gonna mark that they're okay and then we're gonna bill cut that out and then we're gonna mark another one on here another on down there another one down here loose losing this bit of debt knots that won't play part of what we're doing so we're going to saw this down now using this panel saw and I'm just a safety tip here just to start the cut off if you get your thumb planted down vertically and the Anaka will rest up against the plank xre the side of the saw and just by doing that we can there see how that was worthy it's just stopping the store from waggling around now the next thing to consider when you're soaring is making sure you saw your forearm your upper arm and your shoulder are all in the line so that it's not over there and it's not here so you're not bending the saw because that's when the saw will wash the trap so nice movement steady movement what I'm doing is I'm keeping the pencil line on the left-hand side of the store just throwing that down vertically okay so what we've got here is that is a bit of an issue now with the the cut that we're trying to get through this timber the end is closing up that's because of the grain the way it is it's trying to shut that cut up so what you can use is little tech news put a wedge in it see that's just open matter yeah it just forces slightly Oh be careful you don't over tap that in because it will just put a split straight down you timber and you can see what's happened naturally so you can carry on story so Neil will obviously marking up another piece okay same for the leg are you emotional something about utilizing the waves in the herbs yeah as you can see from the the other two that has been cut out we've got two nice straight pieces off the top of the plank the bottom of the tank we've actually got the see where the curve of the tree has been growing although it looks straight sided there is the actual natural curve of the tree when it's in its early stages of life so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna use that split that's already occurred because that's the natural cleaving line and you can see following down the actual grain that's what we're going to be cutting out and what I'll do off that is on the measure again three and a half inches following that curve all the way around and just lovely shape yep so it's it actually is a more organic shape to the because we're actually working in conjunction with nature so what I will do is I'll cut that curve off and then I'll stride the line on that side and we'll cut that out and then what we'll do is we'll use that as the template will turn the plank over and we'll use the natural curve the other way to create the the other half of it Oh interesting okay so now what we've got now is we've got the curve cut nice shape onto it following the grain and what I'm going to do is following that three and a half inch line I'm going to scribe this now using my end of a square here we can just follow that around following this shape of the curve on the inner side okay so that's that's doctor that's going to be a nice curve on that we'll cut that out and then we'll transport it over to this side what we'll do is we'll put a curve like that and you can see that there's a natural curve there that we can then transfer on to that side that makes sense yep so we'll come over sorry that's not gonna cameraman out total fit or something like that let me finish cutting it and it'll become more apparent gay so now what we've got we've turned the plank over this bottom piece and we use that other curve we've got a mirror image or use the top one as a template and you can see the curve is naturally replicated there and I'm just gonna the reason I've come in a little bit there's a slight crack from the center piff line which i want to remove you don't want that in and I'm just going to shake that up like so and come down real slow you wouldn't make sure something about the curve in the way it helps it a shuttles yeah okay so if you imagine us use this shaver or sphere if you have the the the the straight piece and the curved piece together if we were to use the straight piece first when it's moving you see that it takes a lot more with your feet to push it over to clamp the timber if you've got a curved piece that actually hits the timber a lot sooner interesting so she starts with the ergonomic yeah it is so that's one of the reasons for using of curved piece and it could be branch wood we've got a sinuously the plank that we've taken it from you can see the curve the natural Kirk growing curve of it but it could have been a branch event branch that we could have cleft in half and worked it and on that but we've just speeded up the process perfect so nil for the next component we're making this top piece here right yeah this is the ramp or the plank that's on here this is what will clamp all the timber that's gonna be drawn aft mm-hmm so everything will rest on here it gets supported by a wedge this is an old-style version it's a bit shorter than the one we're making we're gonna be obviously using this be a lot more support and with yours a lot longer legs so it will be a lot heavier on the ground perfect okay so what we're doing now is we've got this slightly air-dried plank it is only planked a few months back although the trees been down a lot longer than that and I'm going to lose the those splits that are in the ends with marking you up with 35 inches I'm going to do two pipes that one for each of our show forces so just a missional on camera actually making another shave all this in parallel yeah one for the center and the ERC one one that I'm taking away so yeah so these two on top so now it's just a simple that's the length we've all seen our got to cut the OSHA mark up the width as well mm-hmm and what we'll do is we'll take the best of the timber will lose the live edges and we'll take down Center Cole and so in terms of width and how are you working on the width is it based on the the width on theme' yep so the plank will be the same width as the the body itself in this case this one's six inches the other one because we could get the seven inch width on that will be that will be seven inches and it just the wider the plank you can get the bigger the bits of timber in you can get really perfect yeah so you have to understand that the the old bodger's were just making chair legs who's there anything above two inches was not really needed Wright's be honest [Music] so nil so we've gone ahead and made the block that sits underneath so you all talk a little bit about that yeah it's just a wedge that helps keep the ramp at the right angle and it is adjustable so by getting a higher plank height you can push the plank or the wedge in it to whatever height you want as you can see it just goes up a bit higher and that so you've got several different adjustments now you've got the adjustment little pattern with the holes in the actual frame which we're going to do next and also the height can be adjusted so depending on what size of timber it is and you get a good effective grip by adjusting the height of the frame and also the height of the ramp that's awesome ergonomics of the wedge itself you just talk about that yeah so if you have a quick look it's been roughed out with a chain saw in this particular case it's just an angle block now a lot of people have their high points at right at the back I tend to bring mine a little bit further forward so it just helps with the timber underneath and you haven't got this fulcrum there is a little bit of a fulcrum point there that means you can bring the block right in or push it right up you actually got the high point a little bit further forward and until we get the frame on explain it I just one last thing on the top obviously you've angled up the just on the wedge yeah if you lift that border for a second so no wedge here you were saying it typically that would go all the way yeah yeah that should go all the way across in terms of but because this is made out of a roundish log you've still got these edgy but you've still got a good plant of timber on that it's again it's it's what we're finding the timber that's just an old bit of ash that's been lying around so no you mention something that I thought it's important to get us on camera an option for making the wedge underneath yeah what we've got is as I say that's made out of one big lump of timber and for those people who may not be able to find big round timber and are gonna bide lumber that's already milled material so you could have a plank for the seat the lakes could be made out of larger pieces of mill timber the other thing is is that the wedge you could actually make out of the plank as well so this is just some broken off cuts of timber and we could then basically mark up the the the style of the wedge and probably four maybe five pieces could be bolted together I went through the same shape and then that could be your wedge underneath so you haven't actually got to go created a massive wedge out of one big lump of timber perfect so Neil we move on to the next phase and so obviously going to be doing some turning now to do the last of the pieces get on the pole with you yeah on the pole oh did you want to talk about the pieces then that we need to if we refer to the this older version that's been around a while now you can see there's a frame that sits over the whole of the body and what we have is the is the top piece here which will clamp onto the timber and it's your feet that pushes out onto away from where you're sitting and that plants here on the pivot point we've got a handle here which is freely taken out we've also got a top piece and with what piece here now what we're gonna be doing slightly different this has got two pins we're gonna actually be putting a pin at an angle straight away through so we can have the piece of timber on either side of that it's just the way that I do on mine because it really does actually anchor the plank onto the or the ramp onto the onto the body of the Jay horse so if we can have a look at that with the body of yours which is a six inches so we know that the piece is here and the bottom have got to be six inches in the middle there'll be about two inches in thickness to create a good solid piece and then off these will be two ears or Tenon's that will sit through the frame of the shape horse frame top and bottom and and there'll be different lengths but obviously longer at the bottom to get your feet on and at the top there'll be reasonably short all this will be held together by wooden pins or in this case a very dry oak you can see they just go on the top on the old example the these have broken off and they probably just been originally were held in by a pin there you can see a wooden pin which is broken and then somebody's just done a really temporary vers repair on that which isn't very good what we'll be doing is coming through from the side here so it's held in really tight and we can pull the pins out at any point so as a recap them so we've got the the top piece which is what comes to the the actual objects in place that you're gonna be using a sort of pin which is the fulcrum of the frame suck through the body and then that the bottom piece will be a piece for arresting both our feet on which is gonna act as the trettel very and in terms up from the side view you're doing adjustment holes yeah so the top one will have one one or two holes there for adjusting the height of the size of the timber that we've got there's also another three holes here which you'll be used to adjusting the height again and also if you want a younger person to use your shade horse you can put more holes at the bottom that's why these pins are most important to the other take apart so you can adjust the whole frame to suit the individual who has sat on it the other thing is we're going to be doing this pin and it can cease coming at an angle into the body of the shave horse and that's when you applying pressure by pushing your feet away with the frame and obviously the top is clamping down onto the ramp what happens is this wants to force upwards to plank here so but if you put this in at an angle into the body that resists any movement interested okay and then the final one in the middle here you've got two adjustment holes as well yes again again for the site or a height of the individual you can adjust the frame forward or backwards depending on so you've got height movement for the feet length the leg also for the length and knees to move it away and also for the height change for the size of timber so there's a lot of adjustments can be made with this to fit most people so the way you've essentially done it's just like you said you've got the ability to adjust quite significantly and also for its impact on them as well yes that's it's a wall this can be taken apart legs can come out the ramp can come apart the frame can come apart and all this can go into the back of the vehicle are inessential perfect okay so those who want to go off to meets or whatever can take their own frames their own shame horses with so now in order to make the components we're going to be utilizing the timber that we cleaved off from before then we wash these sort of off cuts will get used up if it doesn't get used up for the components you would have got used up for firewood obviously needs a bit of air drying before that happens and all the shavings will get used up as well different small fires that we use on site so what going to do is we're going to split this up into component parts bearing in mind we've just said about the three main parts of the frame which is the the top piece the the fulcrum or handle piece and then they wear the feet fit so I'm going to try and get all three of those out of this one piece so using the throw again and the more this off so once again from the middle ityou from the core yeah just taking out the the pit line really cause you don't want that in any of your timber and will work probably the handle out of this piece and then we'll split this in a certain way where we'll get both the the top part and the bottom part of the frame that that will be for the handle and then I'm just going to try Noren take this to get the best as we can out of it looking at it we've got quite a thicker piece at the bottom but I'm just noticing we've got quite a crack in there so we may only get the one piece out of this see how we go okay get more on it so let's just hit that again knocking the bill down turning it right yeah and you see where that's followed through almost gone through the crack there is another one just there which I'm going to have to try and take out but I've got quite a big chunky piece and they just still get what I want out of that a lot of Acts work I think we'll get it off okay okay so what we're gonna do is there showed early on about using the axe work for the legs and it's a similar process now we're just going to make up the parts that we need this is going to be far longer than we actually need so I'll be cutting this down a bit what I'm gonna try and do is just square it up into a a billet of a square shape rather than before I round it just want to get making looking they're the right sort of size so what are you making around Pierce's you I neither want to get a square first well dimensions base it just gives you something to work to any mind all the Bark's got to come off as well and I can give you a false perspective as other timber we can start to see we've actually got it slightly elongated and I want to remove that one side of that okay so now I've got a square shape and it just gives me a reference point to work too and choking up the axe right up to the head and I'm doing these feathering cuts and then that'll just ease and what I'm looking for is making sure I've got a fairly straight sided again ever mindful about safety going to stand to the left of where the the axe line is in this case because on the right under the shop alright so now you can see there's a bit of a bow on here got this reasonably straight here I'm now going to try get this looking a bit more square shapes so you've got this pretty pretty square now at you though yeah but what I've done is a it was quite an irregular piece of timber if you can see where it's come from and I've just tried to follow the grain to get get it nice and straight so although it's squared off I'm gonna try and make this now into moral round ability by taking off the corners always keeping the axe head vertical it's angling the Tim not the acts that way the axe will work for you and not to put more pressure on your wrists if you start accessing over here he's not getting any control okay so although that's quite a rough bill it will be a little bit more off the ones to either think so essentially you've gone from obviously a very irregular page to a rough square to ten taking the size and making it a little bit more round yeah that's about it isn't it ideally what you'll end up is the octagonal shape so from there I'll end up doing is so now were the shape or for you know just thought you know trying to make it more round or you know we're just trying to make it more into a rounder shape what I'm also trying to do is remove all the axe cuts so we don't want any of those in the timber itself you get a bit of a spot like that twist okay just pulls it off see there's some axe cops in there getting rid of those tax cuts here pull off and then he oversees where the remove that we're just trying to get it into a rounder shape let's ensure all the experts are off though see he's got an eight sided billet that's that one end now that there's a template I can turn it over work on this end [Music] [Music] you think it's a pretty healthy nice and fresh now for all those who've got to either the storm cat or kelly kettle or Gilly kettle these are great for that so you can dry these out and just feed them in burn beautifully so all it all gets used I think I'll be happy enough with you've got a fairly round billet it's still a little bit in the middle say that off they were just trying to make it nice and straight when we turn it just take off the bits of the year that is gonna be a reasonable we're not gonna need it there look full length of this is just that what was left over from the timber so what I'll probably do is just cut it a little bit oversized no bearing in mind we've got to do six inches for the middle which is going to sit on the body and then we've got to leave the ear which is an inch and a half either side and then a bit more for the top piece the bottom foot pace will be even wider so we can get a good foot on either side of it so that will probably be okay from the bottom area I'll turn that and then we'll we'll make some more so that's the one piece so Neil now that obviously we've roughed out the the pieces yeah so see now we want to turn them on a polo to kind of make them rather obvious into the shape that we need I'm joy doing a quick discussion around the polos itself well basically it comprises of four main parts there's the pole itself which in this case goes beyond the fence and so we also have the a-frame which acts as a fulcrum the treble the pole is about 18 feet length made entry of an ash tree and that's allowed to dry for six months remove all use right the next part will be the main body of the lathe itself we've got two a frames and with a bed attached double bed we've also then got two pockets and people who agree electric turn you will know them as a headstock and tailstock but they're called puppets in Greenwood turning and what we've got there also in between those is a tool rest which in this case is made from a piece of oak the headstock has a handle on it you don't necessarily need that both the puppets are held on by wedges underneath the bed so that locks it down into the and they're movable to the size of the template it's only interesting yeah the other final part is the obviously the treble which we set on this has a movable head so we don't move the string across with it yeah right gotcha come on side of the other and basically where it's an active you the individual creating the power and you're working in tandem with the spring of the cold but I press down the pole comes down and as I release my foot the pole takes over and brings the string back up so it's this act you know this is why this is called a reciprocating lathe mm-hmm so it's the actual piece turns forward and back forward and back now if we start to introduce a tool the first tool what I'll be using is this roughing gauge now this is a very old blacksmith made one we fit well I bought this at a car boot sale it was covered in paint not ground very well and I ripped brought it back into use nice socketed tool works beautifully for what I want I knew instantly when I saw it what it was mmm-hmm just nice to use so we'll introduce the tool I've done a little bit to test it so how we work this is I put my thumb underneath the tool the four fingers across the top and my hand is resting on the tool rest so just be aware of the treadle moving around said so and the pole what I'm going to be doing is I'm going to move the treadle and see the forward emotion backwards and I'm going to introduce the tool and I push down the tool goes in as I lift all comes back because this timber is slight I'm just gonna try and take the high spots off here there's a hot spot you see that really digging it out there's nothing being turned there who's got a bit of a bow in it we'll show you again in the moment how to set up the the piece you're turning in between profits what we're doing here is we're actually turning the piece it's going to go down at the bottom of rain so what we could end up is with it put a pick piece in the middle and two inch sentence or it could be one of the half-inch down there we've got a fairly round piece there rough date now there's two ways of doing this we can kick over the string and just carry on certainly taking off the high spots both got be mindful where that string is and returning don't know what the tool anyway hanger the string you can see we're turning out Sycamore he gets a really nice ribbon off because that is the ring porous tree see there's a lot of grain that you can see in the timber as we've seen before Sycamore so diffuse Taurus timber and it actually comes off the tree a lot nicer when turning so we've got a few little flats here and they're not too bothered by those because they're going to get turned off so the next tool that we would use just bring that over to the left again next tool would use is my tool I had made by Nic Westerman and this is a combination of a flat turning chisel and a skew chisel you can see this is an older version based on a picture I saw from a medieval painting and what we have also is a more modern version where you've got a flat two inch blade and a skew chisel and I can do all that with one but this is quite a fearsome tool so you've got to really hold it because again they'll just pop those away right because we get the the the tool rest even closer you can see I can now do the same again hold it and what I'm doing I'm just going to smooth off all those rough edges first getting it smooth don't know what you want to talk through the way you can be working through this site yes what we did previously is we've now measured this down to one and a quarter inch now this is where the foot part of the frame will be so my left foot would go here my right foots gonna go there this is the spacer which is the same size or just slightly larger than the body of the shave horse so the body of the Chavous is six inches this is six and a quarter so that makes the sure that the frame doesn't squeeze up on the just the message quickly we did this part off camera because Neil just basically easy just check everything's working with the Polo so we're now going to show on camera you start here which is exactly the same process yeah so what we're gonna do getting back to the roughing gauge I'm now going to so I'm just going to change tools now go back to my so the flat edge or straight edge and a skew chisel combined you can see I'm not far off inch and a quarter and width so we're going to take this end down first there's a matter of cutting in with the point of the skew a little bit of curving up I just want to check what size you've got we're just over the size so family we've got to be drilling it an inch and a quarter and I did because this is still green remember and we're using green timber odds there is going to be a bit of movement when it dries but because we're going to lock it in within I'm not too bothered about that and this is a saw that we're using ideally you'd probably just turn all these and and and let them to dry and then you could refit the Tenon's to suit so now I've got that end nicely sorted on just not come out soon we're just going to check that's fine a little bit tight there okay that's it I'm good to go just making it a little bit tight on that end where it's going the frames gonna come up so it'll just tighten up to it all right so that's that's really it for that piece no undo this and we'll take that off so that's your your first piece made which is going to sit in the bottom of the frames you have a look at the old one there that's where that's gonna go right we can rework this we can put a few ridges on here so that your feet will grip that so it doesn't slip off so there's lots of little additions we can do to that but that's primarily the piece of timber made so the next thing is gonna I'm going to make the top and then the hand wall here for the the fulcrum so it's really just making another one of those but the the end pieces will be an inch not inch and a quarter the what I'm gonna do see from this other end we've just done off camera we've got a few ridges on here well that'll just act as a bit of a grip for our feet and I'm gonna do the same this end maybe three-quarters of an inch mark burning minds we're gonna have the frame there so we don't need to go any further the faster and just come the opposite way so that gives us a yeah moving in there just a kid you do not let's get the fur off yeah it's just just cutting one side any of these Theon just altering the tool history from one side to the other it's just taking out the worst of it then what I'm going to do now just pick up a few shavings in my hands and then act like nature sandpaper okay that's it so moving on to next piece just very quickly show how you actually adjust these yeah we can see now the this next piece is a lot shorter so what I have to do is adjust the puppets and below there is some wedges that hold the puppets down to the bed just a matter of tucking around the back moving those out and then adjusting like a poppet so that we can get just read which I will just undo that enough to make sure that we've got plenty space and there's just a matter of not amazing really tight to make sure that the puppets are down and locks solid just make sure you've got enough room there brilliant and then again with our trusty pencil and a mark out the middle on both ends and getting the actual spur on the poppet on that pencil mark why not in I'm not going to go right home because I want to do just pull the tool rest back and I just want to see how that runs on the lathe which is great but this is going to be the top piece on this on the frame okay quite tight to adjust that so with the post a lot of Justin once it's once it's in place okay just this has to be quite rough on the top because over time yes it does get smooth to the pockets under pressure can't move backwards so what's the next step you've got these right yeah I've got some beeswax in my hand but I've also got some petroleum jelly as well which you can use as a lubricant just to pop put on the ends although this is green that's great but if you're doing a lot of turning on one piece eventually the moisture is removed out at the ends not the piece of timber it just because of the friction it really heats up and if you don't have any lubricant in there it squeals like Matt but actually is quite although this is quite freshly it is quite a dry timber so you can either use a little bit of beeswax shoved into it or petroleum jelly whatever is easiest for you to find I mean most pharmacies up this available blue all all of them so it's just a matter of putting a little bit on either end and that's that sorts that out now we've got that on I can actually add the string we've got two turns but to show a little bit about that because a lot of people get caught out by this so if you hold the string in your left hand imagine you're beating it the string or a drum and you hit it and you turn it away from you and then another one you turn it away so that actually sets it up right for when you're using the treadle another thing that you've got to be aware of is also that we've got this tight because this is under quite a lot of pressure if you don't have the it locked in tightly what can happen is this will break out and this piece of timber can fly quite a way okay yeah I've seen it happen at shows with other people they haven't got it done and bang it goes about ten foot into the crowd and that can be really dodgy so I'm gonna do is get set up and we're going to turn this oh you do bear in mind we've got to go back to the roughing gauge I'm just gonna make sure that this is all running okay and we're away again I'm gonna stop turning just see how it the as I'm pressing down the woods coming towards me and I'm actually introducing the tool into it and as I lift my foot I'm coming that's all away slightly so it doesn't rub the back of the tool because this is only carbon steel if you just held it there all the time see how I'm rubbing just rub a big gag in the back you don't want [Music] okay so this is the bottom of the frame maybe your feet are going to fit this is going to be the top one and we've got to make sure that the the to fit exactly the same on the frame that we just 12 inches so I'm just going to mark the middle of six inches and then either side of that going to need 3 and 1/8 so that'll be 6 and 1/4 there that's 3 and 1/8 there okay so these two ends will be the 1 inch Tenon's which will sit through the frame and get fixed I'll just poke out a little bit you can see that we took three marks yeah Center 3/8 that side 3/8 that side giving you 6 and 1/4 it'll be the same as that piece on there ok although this is a lot longer bear in mind this is your feet sitting on here lined up marking out the initial basically you you're you didn't the initial marking space yeah get that sorted I'm now gonna use the roughing gouge again to get this down a little bit okay so what I'm gonna do now you hear that squeaking means I need to get a bit more of a loser now you don't necessarily have to take it off just get your finger in dab it into their squeaks gum so just checking it with a way of an inch yet so how we lookin now yeah that's good that's just nice and tight that'll fit into the one inch hole that we're gonna drill with the bracing bit and now basically just repeating the other side okay I'm gonna do the other side here great so we're looking good so we've just simply repeated the same on the other side yeah there's been a bit of a fault where where I'll just caught it what happens this is what happens to be reciprocating lines if you don't control the tool runs away with it just see the little bit of a about to take off that's not gonna affect what we do that's just bad workmanship on my part okay so that's the top taste this is now the top part the handle yeah this is a handy going it this will be where everything comes up this the bar just rubbing on the taking off the high spots see there's still a flap there you know it high spot they're taking all that side off and we've got quite a bit so we were just discussing something Neal yeah so obviously this is going in like the middle session so this attaches it to the bench doesn't it so this is your fulcrum the handle be made up this end this is the tenon that's gonna go all the way through the body and frame so just to kind of so this is just a recap this is this middle one here yeah guys proof are you a measure something obviously we working with Greenwood so you were talking about the width of it yeah the body is gonna have a an inch hole drilled through it which is fine but if you make the this an inch the the handle that's the body starts to shrink and dry it's gonna tighten up and you don't want an inch tenon going into an inch hole because it'll dry and shrink so when you take it home these need to be dried separately and if the tenon hole sorry if the mortise hole shrinks up you can actually put in another autist through it and just open it up again so the point being is that everything's that are dry so if I leave this inside the actual mortise yep there's a ton of concrete could just say it's up place indeed so this needs to be slightly smaller anyway but I'm gonna make this a round about 7/8 of an inch as we compare to the mortise hole which is going to be an inch so it's it rattles through and it'll be nice and smooth at the end of the day it'll hold and and create a good fault fulcrum so what I'm gonna do now is just turn it round and there to do the other end look I'll see what that's gonna be good for you long as that's bigger and thicker than the the actual Senate that's okay but onon particularly anybody's a little bit of a clap which you take off that'll be the size of the handle you can see there's the mark that I've still got which I'm still going to just put a reference point in there okay all this will come off they'll just want to make sure that I've got enough for the handle right so I'm just going to try and take that with the engage now I'm gonna try and just get the 10 in the same weight which is about 7/8 inch so I'm coming up there it will start to feel and chatter so just okay and I'm just gonna put it [Music] [Music] see you're making fire around it all yeah it's just really so we got some into grab a hold up I'm just gonna be a [Applause] bit more of this end [Music] okay sorry I just rough that they all nature sound paper again we'll just burnished us [Music] you know let's just put a bit of a shine on it see on the edges is just catching it let's remove all those little birds so the last piece we're doing is the peg that's going to go in the ball and we're just doing one peg okay so I've got that set up again what I'm gonna do is just round it off before I put the round on the lights fading I could just catch in the right okay so what I got to do now is just remove all that let's just be a little knot on the end of that [Music] [Music] the cows you use it a very small yes spindle gauge it's basically gonna be so you can get your finger in there and got something to grab a hold off when you set it out just go and see she's gonna be an inch all the way down this spindle oh just want to make sure in a little bit so I'll get make sure we get it right at this end and then I can do follow the rest today so what I'm gonna do stop there now and I'm gonna turn it round and just put a bit an inch long across the hole yeah across the whole thing now I've got a nice surface to turn on there I should run a little bit better okay as you you know which you'll grab hold of something tight that's waggling they're coming up too tight so you're done in taper right a bottom so yeah so we old slide in and anything tap it home perfect I think actually might just need a little bit off there I'm just gonna do that the say I think we the puppets are a little bit out on this old light look it's just gonna be locked solid that's it so that's all four bits done then this is gonna be burnished with the shape yeah we can do that as well the nature sound paper just to finish off see that actual list spindle is quite hot move that across string over there do that just smooth it off so nil I just wanted to touch on a option of doing the the Tenon's yeah for those that don't have a Polish so what is the kind of alternative they can well you could get the bill it down to the simple to almost the right size and they're not what I've set up here is a brace and bit all right the brace is really just to mark the end of the or billet I'm going through much more than that okay and that gives you a rough mark for an inch so then what I can do is I can then draw knife this down quite happily to that mark and that will give you your tenant bear in mind you've got to have a thick bit up here so you may want to put a saw cut or a mark pencil mark around it and you're just working going parallel to that now okay like I said before do the square cut just tell them this down to the right size because that little bits come out you see that mm-hmm so you know you're there turn it just there on that bit turn it and we're just there so now we've got four size which are just well one more so I'm just going to bring that down a little bit further there we are there the four points north north south east west or if you want to call it 12 o'clock 3 o'clock 6 o'clock 9 o'clock whatever that's fine and then we're going to turn it on its edge and we're just going to bring down the corners similarly and that that end yeah this is where you've got to start being a little bit careful what you take off they'd almost don't and then it can be really gentle about that's not going to be far off a perfect circle and would you take the ridges off you can see what what I've done is I'm just down to that cut where this than 30 bits that's got to come off that's not bad for its own um is it no there is another way of doing that as well which I'll show you with another tool look what I've got set up here is a Veritas tenon cutter they might leave Ally tools there is also an adapter you can get which fits into the end of the brace it's a bit like the brace bit see they fo put the same tool so this is quite a good setup for someone who wants to just start out making Tenon's you know sort of post and wrong stools and things like that so what I can do here although I'm just stuck on the shade horse doing this I did it viewing a bench you see I'm just getting it in making sure that the the body of the tenon cutter the adapter and the body of the brace are all in the line with the timber that you've got so that's that way there is a little thing here that's going to give you a level but I wouldn't even look at that obviously wouldn't put those on because they're a little bit awkward really so there's that I'm looking down here so it's dead in line also you need to be aware of the up-and-down position as well and see that so it's not only left and right but up and down and you've got to get that essentially on there what I'm doing is on pressing day [Music] so you get these shavings when you get a tenant have a look at the lieutenant I did with the wall end got some facets on this one has still got a a roughish edge to it depending on how good you are with the tool but it's a little bit rounder so but they both work adequately so Neil the four components are done then yeah so basically we've got the foot part of the frame made there's the handle that's gonna be the fulcrum that the frame will twist on and then we've got the the upper part which is going to be the clamping mechanism at the top end of the frame and the fourth part that we turned was the basically the pin that's going to keep the the ramp or the plank that we're going to be clamping to and that just keeps that in position so there's some noise obviously you've shown all this on the pod but I just just demonstrated there are other techniques yeah but yeah you could have used rounder planes on it there are all sorts of stale engines and rounder planes that will do these one each tenon cutters and Tenon's I should say and you can get them at different shapes this one's one and a quarter there are others at other different sizes so it's well worth investing if you can get a pole lathe great but there are other means of working perfect so now we onto the site arms now the first thing you will do is you said you were trimming off to soccer size base yeah we're gonna keep it at around 37 and a half inches for this particular Heights because you've got a good long leg on this and we want to make it long enough for you and your friends to be able to use and I'm sure you can have a lot taller you know people of you and maybe the recent that's it I've seen some friends notice it so it'll be interchangeable from different heights of people so we'll keep it around about 37 art but we're going to trim off this dead not be so no just before obviously we draw the holes into the side arms so obviously we're just looking at the the measurements how far we're gonna you know place the holes and whatnot see just wanna talk through what we've decided on this particular length well with this one because we know the whole length of the arm is around about 37 inches we're going to allow a good inch and a half below the bottom of the hole so between the bottom hole and the bottom of there are going to allow a good inch and a half so it doesn't break out then we're going to do an inch and a quarter hole then between there and the first hole we're going to do 20 inches mm-hmm okay so that will be the first hole for the Frog Chrome and then we're going to do incrementally in a two inch spaces three holes and then inch and that's an inch tenant okay and then between the middle hole and the top one we're going to do a nine inch gap and that should be adjustable enough for what your needs are and just to kind of fight those you're a bit pedantic weirdos the two holes on the bottom with the foot just decides right now we're gonna do just the one yeah just the one I mean you can always add that in a later date yeah to suit your needs but all these adjustments are adjustable for most people you know you can add it shrink it bigger whatever - suit yourself so no you just realize you want to do quat or one quicker amendment you need to clamp yes to the very top bit and what we're going to do is we're going to put our just a little flat on it you can put a v-shape chip in it as well to clamp the timber it's almost the reasoning behind this it actually clamps the timber a little bit better edge see you have a look you've got a nice flat edge now rather than a rounded edge so that will actually sit and grasp a little bit more what you can also do is we'll put a little V cut into there so that will sit on a around tenon and grab it a little bit more as well cool so if you've got a larger flatter piece like your spatula or something that will grab it on the flat if you've got a little round end or a tenon that you're you're trying to and that will grab that as well so these little additions which is going to make your shape horse a lot safer and easier to use coal shall we add that onlin yeah so I just need sit [Music] alright okay so what I'm gonna do is on stand up and I'm gonna cut this [Laughter] so you literate for sewing of agency yeah that's all it is just to be in there as well and that will sit and grab hold of any round 10 and like that okay so Neil we've marked off the holster this is the bottom one for the it's gonna be the inch and a quarter mm-hmm that's for the foot part of the frame treadle then we've got three holes and these are set at now two and a half inches not the two inches that we discussed I think in the appropriately that older one was made for children particular and I think we need to just up these a little bit so these are two and a half inches between you see the original markings have been burned them up a bit and then between the middle and that that one is nine inches but I've also added a second hole just in case we need to use that as well it's fine it just gives you the loads of options then some terms of so we citizen we're gonna do a dry fit yeah with one hole on the Internet then just go just adjusted to suit so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna do I've got the tomb we've got the inch and a quarter and the inch and I'm gonna do the the the inch and a quarter so I'm gonna I've clamped it together and we're just going to go straight through the lot okay so but I'm just eyeing this in this drill needs to be vertical to the top of the timber okay so it's not over there or not it and there it's not that oil that way it's got to be dead vertical as blessed as you can get it I can just get that in and we can use a level sorry a square to give us a rough idea if that's the right twice and that's pretty good not bad for a red wine is it that's 11 so in future I should just stop you in my tool bag will check your stuff that support you up when I need you eventually you do get used to now the inch-and-a-quarter bit is quite a tough bit to overcome and this isn't a green symbol but it might one thing you got to be really careful with your the brace bit is making sure that everything is sharp said Neil the holes of thumb but you haven't gone all the way through no I said what we're going to do is we've we've drilled so far and the pin or the screw thread at the end of the auger there's just popped through so we'll turn this over now keep them both together and we can just see a little bit where the holes have got one two there's another one somewhere just about there and then the other one finally there so we haven't got to have that one in the way we've got that with you don't you see there partly done so what I'm going to do is just clamp that on there okay so one that one that one they're sitting just about see the holes poking through one and a quarter and they send so insured this is in order to perfect the break food just stop him break through so you get nice clean hole either side just so nil obviously the holes done in the side but is somewhat you want to do one quick little tweaking yeah this is just an addition he doesn't make that all any better but it it's just something that some Turner's do on there they would turn in it that's a bit of fun to see yeah no man makes fire so we're just using a steel wire on here and it was see from the smoke coming off it just burns in do another one lovely smell and they just create crates in there in addition to whatever you're turning on share legs hurt this is done a lot as well just to show off put the leg structure on things like a some Garden implements dippers and things like that the one inch increments or I usually denoted with the line like this and the other thing is is it it burns all those little fibers that may be sticking up inside of that anyway so you're getting rid of them there we are so nil we're going to do a dry run up week to make sure everything fits yep so we'll start with the foot part of it if it's okay I'm gonna pick the top bit in try and get the two together okay and then obviously this fits but whatever height you want then you travel to go okay and this all fulcrum on here so now we can then when we've drilled the hole we can do a bit of it they fit something where to the actual shape horse perfect sold me body now we're gonna go drill the holes yup yeah we are indeed we'll do that next perfect so no you're just marking off the holes now I actually sat down on this off-camera so you could do this properly but obviously you're sitting on it just to illustrate how you measured up where the holes are going to go yeah so you're sat on the saddle part and the first hole is normally six inches or 150 millimeters from the front of your knee to the first hole Center and then we're going to do increments of two and a half so you may put three holes this and just want to put the thing when we sat down you told me to basically put my fine oh yeah to the edge job actually got a bit further because we've designed this for you this particular one and each one's made specifically for individual use but we're also trying to make it for a generic use most people are the similar height but that's the measurement that we'll be using is about six inches from the front of the knee to the first hole what we're going to do now is from the top we're going to mark down a square either side than the top based and normally what I do is we try and get the whole quite close to the top here so the center is probably going to be about an inch - that will leave you about half an inch of timber so this is gonna be an inch hole remember going through now we've got to be really careful with the drilling that it doesn't come up at an angle or go down at an angle he's got to be parallel to this surface on the top so everything taps on that so this is we're using squares and sites lines and somebody else helping if you can to do it's quite important perfect care and helping me with this particular section because you're on the camera so it's difficult but thank you Karen for helping out basically what's happening is we've got that line that we marked on it which is square to the top and what I'm going to do now is I want to drill a parallel mortise using the bracing bit going straight the way through I'm using the the line of this steel rule so I'll get a parallel measurement here and I'm also looking down that line as well and I'll keep the the brace of the order in line with that let's just start that off get that in place so I've got it locked I just want to check reasonably parallel and then I'm gonna go that's right this is where you gotta have courage of your convictions a little check yep so it's just poke for it's difficult to see on the camera we can just see the pin just there okay so I'm gonna withdrawal that right now bringing this watch swarf have got left in there the chips and I'm gonna come round the other side and this is once again to prevent the break-up just that breakout yeah and see that was quite an accurate drill what's the reason that you wouldn't just go straight through because it would just break out the fibers that's all it is yep following the hole back through the other way oh Sh you know any fibers we've got there yep waiting there now on this side we can set up a second one after going for a knot we've got three was this difficulty on camera bass just poking through nails alright so I'm just gonna withdraw that you know this Wharf would make I'll come around this side it's just off the line there we go there's actually just okay that can be done with a as I say this is a Jennings patent hmm brace and bit you could also be done with a scotch eye auger if you've got slightly odd a bit and bear in mind we've got this is six inches and you've probably got about eight inches worth a cutter mm-hmm to play with so just about get that's right I'll see the pins got to go down the bottom and this is probably a good example of taking my shoes off beating see I can then you can just put your hand on the bottom of their keyring just to hold it okay and I can just use that as a clap but that works like okay and just by adjusting the bat forward and back you can you've got some adjustment though you've also got adjustment in the hole so you can get some quite big bits of timber in here yeah bear in mind if it's it you know you won't want to be holding great big lumps but somewhere between three and four inches would be adequate that's just been holding that but oh yeah and that's without any pins holding it together that's just holding it like so so the next thing and final thing is we're just going to drill the pin that holds the plank and you see what I was saying about the pivoting point yeah so that pin that we've got to hold it down it's got to be drilled at an angle no that means doesn't happen so Neil we've clamped this on the board so are you looking obviously the yang going yeah so what what's gonna happen now is I've got to put this pin in now if I was to use this as the my datum point here is a level I can see I've got it at right angles now to the board well if I was to use that what's likely to happen is you press down on there this is like it's a fire or so we actually have to put this in it a bit of an angle okay like so okay and what that does is it acts when you press on there it locks in position it can't come out I'm just going to drill you can see where the leg runs up I'm just gonna drill the other side of that that's an angle there's no specific angle just make sure it's Oh more over than the 90 degrees from this here so it's probably adding like if you took a measurements probably about 110 degrees from the from vertical from the base I should say okay so with right what I'm gonna do now is I'm just going to get myself into a position where I'm drilling a hole like so now I'm gonna get to the point where I can't go any further so I've already got the whole set mm-hmm I can take that off draw that out undo that take the plank off all right you just got the whole started and all been well just keep going and with this thing go all the way through here all the way through okay so the last and final piece we're going to push the plank back through and line up the holes for the peg I'll just give a gentle tap there that's it so that's locked so just have a check see I'm really pushing hard on that that plank doesn't doesn't pull up look at us there what a difference that's made huh yeah and that's why that angle is really important you've got to get that if you start drilling at 90 degrees it's likely to pop up and there we are that's really the shave horse made the only things on what we're going to do now is we're going to insure that this top piece is pegged nice and tight and so is the feet down below the handle obviously remains loose so we can move it about but that really is about it final touches we could round the ends off of the ears on the top and bottom just crazy so you don't catch your hand on any sharp edges but that's really the shape horse made so guys we've had to move into this amazing barn just across from the workshop but it is going absolutely pitch black outside it's impossible to film this is an incredible bond like that was good a detailed video of this location our later date so we're just on the last leg sound and we're looking at some pegs and mr. mates is carving out some oak pegs is that right yeah there's a bit of English oak AirDroid and then it's been brought in sizes properly well dry which is what we need really for this and what's going to attempt to make some pegs that are gonna fit [Music] yeah as I say that's just coming up quite nicely but speaking of in some way pointless about the lighting it's indoor lights it comes out very very different to the outside lighting but you have to make do so you've done a sample Peter - obviously test out the hole as you're carving it yeah so as I say you drill the hole the size that you want and we're just creating the pegs out a bit of square squared AirDroid timber and that really fits in nice and tight and then this will go through into here and just peg in it doesn't need to go all the way through idea if you had a peg that went all the way through you can tap it back out and that's the problem it becomes loose but if you drive it in it is only one way it can't be tapped out again you just have to twist it and pull it out so there is a function for not drilling all the way through okay okay now the same she just holds a picking persimmons yeah honey you can twist and pull over and adjust okay so there you go guys that is a wrap for this very comprehensive and northern tutorial on how to make a budget shape or meal I cannot thank you enough it's been a pleasure really slight really tight now you wouldn't believe it watching this video but this has been coordinate over the period three days so that's how much we've added condensed into this tutorial coincided with this move you will be building suit chambers is someone I've been building for the base count which will be shown at a later date so that's why I take an incredible amount of work and as we said in the beginning of this video this video is designed to teach you how to make that specifically the budget pattern of shape walls there are many stars our out there's many ways of doing it you see the combination in this video of these machine tools various hand tools etc the goal is is that you really kind of use what you've got to hand now obviously when you have my equipment you make certain jobs a hell of a lot easier but the idea is video is to take news vast experience and condense it down to show you little mini master classes throughout for example the parlay and drop using a draw knife etc etc so I hope you got some value something great on this video more importantly I hope you've got some inspiration to go maybe attempt yourself to just you know some kind of shame for yourself so no shame voice is a really useful piece of equipment oh you couldn't really wear green that is it it's one of the backbones of the the job Road yeah so it's just one low signal for quite chop now well thanks it is quite over here I've caught the amazing one but with it you know built under a second seat appreciates tuition and many many years of experience some really chop like I said the one that I've got for myself and you'd be seeing at the later date and we're actually sitting like here and now now a couple of things that kind of quit yet this was actually used primarily using green wood so what the others suggested that we actually taken apart with the green board was obviously that's got a shrimp is that correct well yeah I mean everything will fit back together again the the legs and everything at end with tapers on so they'll all fit back together shouldn't be a problem again all the the frame and everything is good to go yeah so that's what I'm gonna do when I get it home believe it's aired way outside covered up for about Martha Martin and obviously we're good to go and then making sure everything comes together that's it happy days man he's no shape always with price but just to reiterate that you could use planks longer as well obviously we've done things in a very kind of traditional way like using green wood etc but just use whatever you've got to have it this ought to show up on your DIY store even house or whatever there's no lighting wrong camp this is the key thing that we need to get across just because nearly funding in a particular way doesn't mean that's the only way yeah just do whatever you deem fit we've just show you certain techniques and this is just 100 oh my word yeah it's your way so think of once again hope you enjoyed this video we know some long video Atlas press at the beginning we have a break down below in the description with a time on all the different sections should you wish to jump that particular second of the video now a couple of things just to wrap up firstly without a shadow of a doubt and it's needless to say I'm going to put a link to the almost social media he's Instagram and his Facebook both of whom of which he's very prolific and it would mean the world to me just as a way of saying thank you you've got to remember this guy second three days out of this working lawyer you know he's a working man does this for a living and he's serving a hospitality and he should've taken three days to do to allow me to also document a process that's taking many many years so we're fine not a lot of people would be willing to do that and so it will meet a world to me if you've got any form of benefit from this video so don't check out new maps on Instagram and Facebook links below in the description and give him a follow I'm also gonna put a link to a small word sensor with very kinda giving us permission to use their facilities there and it's an incredible location ingredients so being the world's male porn it to those guys below as well feel free to go and check those guys out or something like a missional will be hopefully and a later they coming back to the center to spend more time is showing you a lot more these are the facilities that certain they got here is a quitter bomb that we're in and the work that they're doing to help small wood owners woodland owners manage and learn about forestry would accept right except for so please do go check out you know please do go check out the links is more with center and all the links will be in the description below and I'm also posting a lot of stuff up when Instagram just search without doors and you see it on their post system behind the same stuff so there you go that's a wrap for this video I sincerely appreciate you watch it all the way through if you grass it up until now no thank you once again Bruin thank you you know hot or thank you to this guy for taking time out over three days and as always I hope whatever you do of Neil and myself is it said from set up doors peace out goodbye [Music] [Applause] you

Channel: Zed Outdoors

Views: 2,866,415

Rating: 4.4687824 out of 5

Keywords: zed outdoors, outdoors, survival, survivalist, prepping, preppers, camping, hiking, bushcraft, wilderness, sas, military, forest, wild, tactical, bob everyday carry, every day carry, edc, bug out bag, awesome, best, wildlife, nature, army, ray mears, bear grylls, self sufficiency, wild camp, wildcamp, solo, primitive, shave horse, shavehorse, wood, woodwork, woodworking, neill mapes, telford, green wood center, small woods

Id: hjOeKgOirNo

Length: 193min 16sec (11596 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 08 2017

Reddit Comments

[u/heavymetalsculpture]

Three hours is a commitment I cannot make at this time. I'm a work for goodness sakes!

continues browsing for 5 hours

[u/GreasusChrist]

I totally read that with Sean Connerys voice!

[u/mud_tug]

Zed is a treasure trove. Lots of videos like this on his channel.

[u/thereticent]

"Today I am joined by a very dear friend of mine, Neill Mapes. Neill, how are you doing?" "Pleased to meet you, sir."

[u/whalesdontfly]

Wow he is so funny at 02:13:42! Nice video!

[u/owningmclovin]

yeah, I really don't need to do all this work this afternoon anyway

[u/thnk_more]

Thought 3 hours was too much until I realized all the multitude of little tops that were included in every step. Learned a ton.