How to Build a Storage Shed Slab Foundation

hi david o'dell here with odell complete concrete first day on the job site what we're going to be doing is a big shed pad 12 by 20. we have a new tool for this job because we're in a tight quarters in the backyard and i can't get my three foot vermeer in there so we've got a 29-incher tomahawk power buggy it's electric nice tool i've had it for about two weeks now and uh i've only had to charge it once i've used it off and on uh for about 10 days i have a new guy here on the job site got him from people's ready also previously known as labor ready call them up give them a description what you're doing and anybody that fits that criteria will click on the job description and show up on site and that's what we got here so yeah this is not bad not bad at all look at that oh what a line up i hit that gap perfect now you just put your weight on it and see that you need about the more weight you got back here the better because you can put your weight in and twist put your weight on it do a couple push-ups get a workout in a couple dips a couple dips let's see if we can hit it right oh what a nice ramp [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] that this is an easy job for that particular machine because it's just sod it's really lightweight i really took it uh through the through its uh put it through its paces on this next job that you'll see pretty soon loading it with uh i was dumping scoops of concrete into it doing some demo and uh powered right through it but yeah what i like about that people's ready is uh you know they're all uh they they cover all the insurance the workers come they do all the deductions it's like a one-stop shop so that's why i went through that particular program was just simpler faster and if you're interested in that power buggy check out the link in the description down below i don't have to go down real deep on this shed pad because i want to elevate it above the lawn i want to i want it about probably on the high side of the lawn i want it about two inches above the grass and then on the low side of the lawn it'll probably be you know five to six above depending on how much slope is in the lawn and i think there's about two to three inch cross soap on this existing uh dirt elevation and grass so we just skimmed all the roots and all the stuff that could potentially decompose under the concrete get rid of all that set up some level lines then i'm gonna cut a little thickened edge all the way around the outside edge that way when he starts framing the shed he can go ahead he'll have something to drill into something substantial that he can drill into put some expansion bolts tap cons whatever he wants to do he can do it without um hurting the concrete because you know if you start drilling into a four inch slab and put expansionable stuff like that you could actually fracture the concrete if you're not very careful yeah so that's a good reason to put a thickened edge whenever you're going to fasten something to the concrete it needs to be a little bit thicker than a typical four inch and as far as setting this up what i'm doing now um i don't have my laser level because i lost my johnson that's what i was using they actually got stolen but i got a new one in root uh dewalt i'm gonna do a little upgrade anyway so that's kind of nice now on this setup what i'm doing is i'm just paralleling the wall i'm gonna go parallel with the wall and i just hung that form that's level i'm just using a four foot level that's about it and that's gonna work for me now how i did that end i didn't use i don't even have a square out here actually after i set this long one that's parallel with the wall i just 6 8 10 over there and i just swung it around to my string lines and squared it that way once i got that end and this long one that's going along the wall once i got those two in everything i just everything else was just measured off of those now i was just messing around there at the end checking to see if it was still square by the time i got to the back to the beginning and it still was and i just ran a little three four five just to verify but inevitably what i did here is i actually went cornered a corner all the way and i was only off about 3 8 of an inch diagonally and that's pretty good in that net span so i'm not real concerned with it so that's it's basic virtually square that's some 15 mil plastic that was some leftover the homeowner from a previous job i did he gave me that stuff so i threw it in here some 15 mil then i threw um i just got some play sand at depot dumped a few bags on top of there just to kind of hold it down and protect the plastic a little bit extra piece of rebar in there too and i just diagonally ran it diagonally that's 3 8 inch diameter rebar owens corning makes it's called pink bar all right this is the moment of truth poor day and going up on the truck to add the fight well that's what it looks like when you're looking down into the back of a mixer truck the nice thing about going up there and adding your fiber you get to look at the slump that it's at and uh you know just kind of verify everything before he even comes down the chute and that stuff is coming out stiff we're looking at about a four and a half inch slump right now it's so sealing up really good along the bottom of that two by six we're not getting a lot of excess squirting out from underneath it sometimes what i'll do on these shed pads or any foundation for that matter because they're typically level is i'll crown the middle you know just to get uh no puddles you're not gonna have to worry about puddles once the roof gets on there but it's always nice to be able to wash it down and not see standing water in the middle but in this case i just went straight all the way across and all my forms are in level and when i when i went to saw cut and wash it down it did hold some water although it's not going to matter once they get the walls and roof up but that's the difference between crowning it and not crowning it a slight crown that was okay 3 8 of an inch up in the middle wouldn't even affect this really you'd never notice it but it might it would get the water off of it here's a three foot wood bowl float this is a 3000 psi p gravel plus i've got the fiber mesh added in there that metal shed is going to get tossed eventually after this one gets built [Music] so on that same concrete truckload we have a couple of driveway additions in the front for this house and the house next door we we widen the driveway we'll show that in another video now right here i'm going around the outside perimeter with a square point shovel to make sure that there's no excess concrete locking that two by six in so that way i can strip it and reuse the two by six if you don't clean up along the edges it's real hard to get those out in one piece also if you notice all the vertical stakes are all already removed i just left the kickers on so now i have all my stakes out so they're not in the concrete so those all be reused as well hit it with the fresno then we hit it with the funny trowel we are putting a half inch radius on the edge it's not really necessary since the building comes out to the edge of the slab which is ideal for water shedding now if you're framing in on this you could potentially get water coming in and under the wall so it's always good to build to the outside edge of the concrete and then step it down from there the edge is nice just for stripping purposes because we pulled the farm off it'll come away fairly clean you won't get any chips off the edge then who knows maybe he won't use it for a shed pad at some point maybe you could use it for a shuffle court so you can see where the water standing because i had him i had the owner wet this down you know every hour i usually start the watering process an hour after i leave the job and then i do that every two hours during daylight hours for at least three days so it's quite a bit it's quite a chore really but you can see where the water was standing you see the rings of the hard water deposits that's because there's no crown in the middle i'm only going to put one cut in in this i'm going to take a chance on it so basically we've got a 12 by 10 section two of them because i went four inches deep in the middle and we're about 10 inches to 12 on the perimeter i'm cutting a little extra deep on this you know what's nice about cutting concrete when you're using the fiberglass pink bar it doesn't matter if you cut into it because it's not going to rust anyway you know you have to be concerned about still if you start cutting into your steel now water goes in there now you've got a problem in this case you never have a problem with this kind of reinforcement but a very smooth finish really nice looking and he's ready to start framing on this thing look at that wood grain finish that's a masterpiece anyway thanks for watching have a good day if you like these kind of 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Channel: Odell Complete Concrete

Views: 1,084,700

Keywords: concrete slab, concrete, how to pour concrete, concrete shed slab, how to pour a concrete slab, diy concrete, concrete slab for shed, how to pour a concrete shed slab, how to form concrete, how to concrete, how to pour a concrete patio, concrete skills, how to pour a concrete driveway, pouring concrete, concrete floor, concrete tools, diy concrete shed slab, concrete finishing techniques, diy concrete slab, finishing concrete, pouring a concrete slab

Id: W0BwpBCMOgU

Length: 14min 12sec (852 seconds)

Published: Fri Apr 22 2022