How to Build and setup a Concrete Foundation for Garages, Houses, Room additions, Etc Part 1

[Music] hi this is David Odell with Odell complete concrete this is our first day at this particular jobsite what we have here is a new garage going in from the ground up we have the pad and that was already graded prior to me arriving and I'm hoping that it was graded properly because I don't want to have to do a lot of extra pad work I just want to dig my footing set my forms and you know go from there on out so we're gonna see what happens once we start putting some level lines up some elevations and we're gonna go from there but here's your look at your drawing this is your basic garage it's a 24 by 24 feet six inches we're building a garage here this is the foundation this actual dirt areas metal were excavated we compacted so it's over 95 percent compaction right now so we've got all of our square lines you can see here we put this up at 24 foot and then we squared the corners with the six eight ten method and then we also measure diagonally from one corner to the other to verify that everything was square so we've got that so these stakes are offset about five feet from the corners that way we can leave them there and run around run the equipment in here to start excavating I've got a little tool here that we're gonna be using got this from Baker tool equipment rental as you can see on the sign there Baker rentals brand-new equipment this is the first day this thing's gonna get used I'm gonna be breaking it in today these footings here on all these corners are 30 inch wide that's for your sheer walls and this is on either end of your opening this is a drive Drive Thru garage so they'll be an opening the garages are there and here just for ventilation purposes really you won't have to run AC or anything you'll get a nice breeze because we're real close to the ocean here and that's the idea of having both ends open on this situation there's not two foot wide footings through the middle you can see this line is this line is building it this is your footing width right here six inches is the stem wall and then your slab this is gonna be designed and set up for a monolithic pork in other words we're pouring the footing slab all one shot it's getting for number fives all the way around a to top and bottom and then we've got verticals that continue across the slab and I believe it's 18 inch centers on the number of floors so it's gonna be a pretty beefy anyway we're gonna get to it I'm gonna start digging moving dirt Here I am in the excavator I've got a two-foot bucket on here these particular plans were kind of drawing out as a 2 pore system meaning they want to do the footings you know below grade as this one poor and then come back you know and rebar down into the footing for the slab so way I'm gonna do is gonna be a little different than the plans suggest I'm just gonna do everything in one one monolithic pour that way I've got the pump truck out here won't here I got the pump truck here once I got the finishers here once everything happens at once instead of a multi stage multi inspections and stuff like that we're gonna do it in one shot so what we have here since we're bringing the elevation up in this backyard all the dirt is staying on the jobsite and I don't have a skid steer to move this dirt that I'm digging so what I'm doing instead of piling it up and then pushing it I'm just dumping it right into a wheelbarrow and then I'm willing it about 100 feet away and dumping and making a pile over there once this garage floor is in place and it's built then we'll move the dirt around and slope everything away from the foundation or garage garage slab then we'll pour the driveway after that [Music] this is about three hours later zest the whole perimeter getting out as you can see two feet deep two foot wide and there's all the dirt that was generated wet down the footing today tomorrow this will be nice and saturated and then we're gonna run the compactor in the footing and then we'll be ready to start that inform and what we're gonna do is a complete monolithic force so we're gonna do a you know floating stem wall gravel six mil visqueen there's a little free-standing wall there's gonna be a door right here passing your door into the garage right here J - that's gonna be tomorrow for day one so now this is a day tuned we're compacting the bottom of this footing and what we're gonna have is a inspector soils engineer come out here and check the dirt see if it's hard enough to pour concrete on the way I cut this through with the excavator is is it it was pretty undisturbed so whatever it is it is so it should be pretty hard this is just a little bit of very bit maybe a couple inches of loose dirt on top and I just compact it in so now what I did here is I've driven all of my steel stakes these are four-foot steel stakes the reason they're so tall is because we have a stem wall we've got we're nine inches above the natural grade for the slab eighth plus another six inches for your stem wall and so that puts us well above the top then we're two inches below gray two feet below grade so we needed four-foot stakes to get everything up and out of the ground so we could actually tie wire the top together to hold the weight inside that stem wall just as you'll see in a few minutes here so we've got all the stakes driven in inch and a half back to allow for the forms I'm gonna be setting I just use a 2 by 12 and 2 by 8 stacked around the outside perimeter and on the inside all it is is a 2 by 6 that's been ripped to allow for slope on the floor since it's a monolithic pour so right now I'm double-checking the string line to make sure that we're still perfectly square [Music] on the corners of each one of these corners actually the footing gets a little bit wider it gets up to 30 inches wide for about six feet in on each corner and the reason for that is because that's the sheer sheer walls on on the corners and they have to be a minimal of four feet so with the footing going outside of each share wall it's approximately six feet by 30 inches by two feet below grade and then on the rebar on this particular design it's got six number five or you could say 5/8 rebar that's two at the top two in the middle and two at the bottom all running horizontally then as far as your vertical bars go we have half inch with six inch tails every two foot on center and those tie into the slab steel which is on 18 inch centers that's number four steel then we have a four-inch gravel base and then we have this grain six mill underneath that that's the basic design of this foundation so here we have your 2 by 12 you're too late stacked your outside perimeter will already set up I've got about three foot spacing on these four foot steel stakes of course I'm gonna have a kicker and every one of those uprights which is a kickers your basic 45 degree angle stake then it goes back to the dirt so the weight of the country doesn't push it out there's a lot of weight on this and you want to over build in these situations because once the car starts going in it's too late to move it if it starts to blow out so it's better to over build over frame and stuff like this there's the only way you can push it back is if you have a tractor to push the form back if it blows out or you have to dig the car get out push it back and then put the concrete back in it's about the only two ways that I know to move move stuff around so here's your returns your return stem walls you can see here in the outside form there is a garage door opening on both sides it's kind of a drive through but the other ends of dead ends you can see that property line block wall back there so basically this is just gonna really work as a ventilation or a breezeway through the garage which is kind of nice especially in this area because you're gonna get a nice ocean breeze through here so you won't have to worry about heating or cooling that two by twelve Heights there's a slab height the way this garage is sloped is it's 24 foot so at 12 feet they have a high point in this garage that slopes both directions it slopes up from half of it slopes outta one garage door other half slopes out of the other garage door and it has three inches of slope in 12 feet so it's pretty much max down with the slow pitch so I mean you could do a lot of stuff in this garage you can hose it out really easily where it goes after that's another story but almost like you're gonna go into some drains oh I have that depending on what they're washing out at or out [Music] so I got this two by 12 in cross here and I said well you know the Congress gonna probably blow out the bottom and mushroom up on the outside so I'm gonna I threw a 2x4 underneath this two by 12 just to retain some of that excess concrete from blowing out then also if I get a form locked in all only I'm only gonna lose a two by four instead of two by twelve so it's good if you can throw some scrap at the bottom that it's not a biggie if you end up losing it here's these little tails that stick out beyond the actual corner of the building and that's basically for sheer strength it might have some design element to it as well but I'm not real sure [Music] so we just 6-inch they're gonna use six-inch lumber on this wall so we got a six inch wide plate at the bottom so I got a six inch width on the stem wall nailing some just some basics stakes on the top just to hold my gap just right at six inches that'll also hold the concrete when it goes in from blowing apart driving some 16 duplexes in in these corners here some areas I may use some screws just depends on the overlap in the condition of the lumber well if I've got a good overlap I can use 16 duplex and not worry about splitting the wood if I'm cutting my stuff flush a good chance it's gonna split when I try to drive a 16 so the 16s kind of worthless so in some situations I'll go with screws and I think I run into that a couple of areas here [Music] now I'm building this little freestanding form out of the actual location where it's gonna end up inevitably going so basically I got you know like I said we've got a two-way six plate which is really five and a half inches so what I did here on this free stander that I'm kind of forming out of out of the hole I just grabbed some two by sixes stood those up right and slammed some wood on the side of that and that gave me the width and it gave me the ends all in one shot now I cut off the extra two by six lengths and now I'm gonna suspend it over the footing home like so no we're just going to suspend this in the air and drive a few I like to use eight duplexes on any of this kind of formwork because there's gonna be a lot of people walking through here getting plumbing getting gravel in here getting pump hoses stepping over the footings and a lot of time when you step over friends you end up stepping on the form and six duplexes won't hold so you gotta use eights minimal to support weight of people and others objects going in and out of the hole so this is my insight form and you can see I've already ripped it so it's tapered this is where that board ends is the high point and that's at two inches and then the other end of this board I left at full height which was because it was a two by six that I ripped so I got two on one side and then the balance on the raft two and a half in the middle then three five and a half at the other end so that gives me the three-inch slow also this is a good guide that I can rod this lab like rod the rod the slab to this bottom of this board that'll give me flat slab height and then top of that board will give me top of stem wall which is still level average returns on the other side the other garage door opening now if you notice these uprights are 4-foot and I put them across from each other the only way I can wrap tire wire around the two steel stakes then they work as a one when the concrete weight hits it then you're doubling the strength of your uh uprights by doing that now we're dropping some number Five's in here I'm just gonna suspend them from the top see these stakes wood stakes I have it going across these cleats that's gonna hold my whole rebar up in the air off the dirt so we've got six number five two at the bottom two in the middle two at the top three inches up from the dirt about an inch and a half two inches down from the top and then wherever the middle is my other set of two not a lot of space when you're looking at two number Five's and a number for vertically through a six-inch stem wall I mean there's really not much room for error if you want to keep a maximum amount of concrete around each side of the rebar when you're pouring in this scenario here's what it kind of looks like when it's getting hung and then what you need to do is at least a two-foot overlap with five eighths rebar and you can get UNAM get down to 18 inch on number three or two-foot on number four so in this case where I had no stem wall to hang the rebar for I just threw some three foot wood stakes from the dirt the top of form I'm hanging the steel off of that now at these door openings were discontinuing one of the sets of number five rebar since the top two are in the stem wall and there is no stem wall across the doorways so they terminate in the ends at the ends of this stem walk door opening so all this great in the middle that that dirt and inside should be we got a 5 inch slab thickness and calls for three inches of gravel so should be 8 to 9 inches you know from that dirt to the top of form right there this is just a single-story garage there's what looks like the day before inspection we got some Dobies at the bottom because like I said on these corners there's a little bit of extra steel where the corners get wider so we had to throw some Dobies in to support that extra load I've already oiled all these forms and we have to do you have to oil the FAR's before you put the steel in in this these situations when you're dealing with inspections because if you get oil on the rebar they don't like that too much so even though it acts as a rust preventative doesn't it here as well as a copy so try to keep the oil off to rebar whenever possible for right now I've kind of got my kickers my 45 degree angle steaks every other up right and that's not gonna be enough so I have to add a few more here and there I think I ran out ran mistakes too at this point we got that formed up the skeleton form up now we just got to beef it up a little bit here and there we're starting to bring in the gravel here it's just clean gravel what I'm doing here is I'm adding so you normally have to have the six mill visqueen but I just took some rough spots out of the natural grade with the gravel so when I laid my plastic on I have a nice flat surface now I can start throwing the gravel on top of this six mill I like to let it overlap or along the edges and let it hang down a little bit into the footing that way it's real obvious that it's there when you do get inspection you know all I have to do here is just pull a string line across underneath the stem wall form and that gives me the grade and we're gonna we're gonna be shooting for a five inch thick slab so I'll just kind of freehand this and measure down from my line and make sure I'm at five inches of concrete in this particular concrete design for this footing calls for 4,500 psi so since we're using the small rock because we need to pump it from the front of the house the opening to get between that property line wood fence that you see there in that house it's only like nine feet wide plus then you got the eve hanging over so you can't get a truck back here basically without taking that fence down we're using three-eighths pea gravel and it's 4,500 psi zero running about a nine sack cement in here to get that psi that's calling for when you do these monolithic you're gonna use a little bit more concrete than you would if you did a to poor system but you're gonna probably do it and about know you probably save about three days of work on a job like this once the concrete starts going into the footings which what we'll do is we'll just we got we got uh three trucks going in here three full truck loads gonna be 30 yards plus just for this garage slab foundation these right here these number for rebars that are being bent right now are your verticals that are gonna tie the slab steel into the foundation still and those are going to go every two feet the long part of these tails on this two foot is gonna go out to the slab that a little short leg at the bottom six inch is going to be at the bottom of the footing and I'm gonna shoot them right down the middle of one number fives and that's also where the GA bolts and that tied the plate would plate to the foundation they'll also go right through the middle of the two number Five's at top well here's your rebar 18 inch centers number four and a five-inch slab 4,500 psi 3 inch gravel base six mil visqueen six number five horizontals all the way around and then you got number fours two foot on center vertically and in every corner has additional number three for no number an additional number five for six foot long then it also has a number of fours going across the four number 5's at the bottom of these footings in each corner and what we have to do here is we're gonna have to start hanging the hardware all the J bolts have to be in place prior to inspection all the hold-down hardware so here's the here's the verticals that we'll be dropping in these are the verticals will also help support the slab steel from sagging since there's really not much under it at these edges since we rolled the gravel off and as we start to pour we go around this thing with treat three truckloads we'll start cutting a lot of the wire that's just spending all this stuff and you know it'll hold itself as soon as the concrete starts going around it that's what it looks like when you follow the plan these verticals that you're looking at we're really designed for a two-port process but I threw them in anyway even though I'm doing them one at one poor system those actually verticals were designed to hold the footing to the slab in a two poor scenario but now it's a one poor but we still got the verticals there so this is a lot stronger than the original design but you don't want to have to ever tear this slab out though because it's all part of the foundation at this point better better off resurfacing if you wanted to go it's a new look on the floor surface at this point like seeing an epoxy coating or whatever there's a lot of coatings that were really good for indoor use there's not many that are good for outdoor use but a lot of good ones for indoor you know I've got my screed pin set up basically I've got a high point in the middle because it slopes slab slopes both directions out both big doors here's all your bolts what we have is 3/4 inch 12 inch long L or J bolts and then we also those are 4 foot centers and then we've got some other hardware that's some H DS those happen to be a 5/8 diameter that actually go through the corner post on these door openings anyway I thank for watching my video and if you ever want to build a garage floor that's not going to move in any conditions this is the one you'd want to use don't forget to watch part 2 of this which will be the actual pouring of the concrete into the foundation and slab all at all at one time

Channel: Odell Complete Concrete

Views: 5,055,345

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Keywords: How to build a Concrete founation, how to build a foundation, concrete foundation, house foundations, garage foundation, Building your own 24'X24' garage and save money. Steps from concrete to framing, Building forms for our concrete foundation, Garage Foundation Pour, Concreting garage base, Concrete Slab Foundation, Build my garage, Monolithic slab foundation, Garage Foundation, Concrete Stem Wall Foundation, How to Build Concrete Forms

Id: kgOEeSBiefU

Length: 30min 29sec (1829 seconds)

Published: Fri May 05 2017