How To Build A Garage - ULTIMATE STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE

in this video I'm going to show you how to build a garage so we're going to be going over how to build the walls how to set the trusses and the whole nine yards and if you're new to this channel my name is Joshua channel is all about DIY to save a ton of money so be sure to subscribe ring that Bell so you get notification every time release new video and Hammer that like button for me that's all I ask for Turf for making this video so we got a lot to do today so let's get started this is part five of a multi-part series and in the other parts we did the foundation and the Footers and the concrete that you see here so if you want to see those videos check out the playlist in the description below in order to transition from the masonry Foundation to Wood we must first install what's called Sil sealer and this is also called Bug Guard in some places but you simply roll this across top of the foundation and be sure to poke it through where the anchor bolts are in order to secure it into place in case you're wondering how these anchor bolts work these are placed down into the block when the Mason was installing the block and then this much of it is sticking up and then after you put your seal plate over this and you put your nut and washer this anchors right down to the block so any kind of up pressure from a storm or whatnot a hurricane cannot pull the wall up off the block now that the seal sealer is put down we got to install these seal plates and these are pressure treated two by sixes 16 foot long and the tools I'm going to be using is a drill with a three quarter inch drill bit or a 5 8 would work too and a three-quarter inch impact socket on my impact driver and also we're going to have three quarter inch nuts and washers that are going to go here but first we got a mark where the bolts come up through the sill plates easiest way I've found to Mark where the sill plate hits the bolt that's coming up through the anchor bolt is to take the plate and set it right on top of the foundation on top of the bolts and then line it up flush with the outside of the block or your poured foundation and once you do how you looking down there pretty close yep just get it flush into the foundation all right we're sitting exactly where we need to be on the foundation so I'm going to take my hammer and hit right on top of those anchor bolts and create an indentation in order to Mark where we need to drill out [Music] all right now we're going to take the sill plate up and flip it upside down here as you can see the indentations are where every anchor bolt was hitting the sill plate so now all we got to do is drill out these little indentations and we'll place it right back over the foundation now I'm simply going to take my drill with the drill bit and drill right through the center of the indentation and do that to all of them across the sill plate wait we're now going to take the sill plate and we're going to place it right over those bolts I'm not going to place the washer right over that bolt along with the three-quarter inch galvanized nut hand tighten it at first these came with the anchor bolts by the way and now I'm going to make sure I'm flush to the outside of the block and then I'm going to take my three quarter inch socket and tighten that down and that's all there is to securing it to the foundation now I'm going to do that around the whole Foundation [Music] thank you foreign [Music] [Music] ly time to start framing the walls these walls are going to be made out two by sixes so if you're using two by fours it's the same idea other than these are a little bit water these are five and a half inches wide but the very first thing you need to do is find some straight plates so the best thing to do is eyeball down these make sure they're really straight because for the wall plates if they're not straight your wall is going to be kind of crooked and you don't want that so I found two that's really nice here so we're going to cut these exactly 16 foot long and you always want to try to buy 16 foot material in order to build your walls out of you don't want to get eight foot material or anything like that because the less breaks you have the better off you are and oftentimes these are not exactly 16 foot so I'm going to cut these down to 16 foot usually about 16 foot 3 8 inch so that's what I'm going to do first see as you can see it's just a little longer than 16 foot but we want these exactly the same length now it's going to take my speed square and then cut the square but first I make a line you can also use the miter saw here too but for convenience sakes a little easier to use just a regular circular saw I'm now going to take this bottom plate and we got to Mark the bolts coming up from the wall and similar to how we did the sill plates for this bottom plate we're going to have to drill out for these bolt heads but I'm not going to drill out all the way it's just enough to countersink this into the plate if not it'll be sitting on top of it so what I want to do is have this if there's any bow we want it bowing out because you want things to bow out instead of inside of the house so I'm going to lay this on top of those bolts and I'm going to allow a half inch in for the sheathing so I'm going to set this right up here with a half inch lip what I got an inch and a quarter drill bit I'm going to drill down but not all the way through if you need to purchase these I'll put a link in the description below if you want to purchase them yourself so as you can see I did not drill all the way through it's just enough to get that bolt to countersink [Music] now that we got all the holes drilled we're just going to lay it into place to make sure everything fits right and also don't forget you need a half inch on this side as well now it's time to lay out any windows or doors that's going to be in this wall and whatever wall You're Building you need to look at your plans but I want my window to be directly in the center of this wall this is going to be a six foot wide four foot tall window the rough opening needs to be six foot one quarters inch so I'm first going to find the very center of this wall to where it's going to be sitting so 10 foot 4 I'm going to make a mark to the center of this window so 10 foot 4 and right there is the center and we know that's going to be the center so we're going to go 36 and 1 8 each way here so I'm going to hold 36 1 8 come down here make a Mark we know we need to be on this side and then same way here we're going to go 36 and 1 8 we're going to come down here make a mark and we've got to be on this side so we know that's going to have to be the exact rough opening here so right there there we go we know we're going to come over here an inch and a half then we got to come over another inch and a half and then these are going to be our jacks so that's our Jack studs then I'm just going to write window here just so we know what that's for now that we marked the windows and doors in this wall it's time to Mark out the studs this is very easy but a lot of people get confused you just want to hold right at the end of the wall and then you'll see these red marks at 16 on Center because this is going to be built 16 on Center and we want to come back three quarters of an inch make a mark and then an X and that's going to give us right in the center of that stud so when we pull across here we want to do the same thing find the next red markers will be 32 come back three quarters of an inch make a Mark still is going to be on that side and do that across the whole length of this bottom plate [Music] [Applause] [Music] I now got the top plate this was the other one that we cut exactly 16 foot and now I'm going to grab this plate and set right up against it and just so you're aware typically when you build a wall I'd go ahead and lay out all the tops and bottom plates and cut it to length and then put my layout across but we're building this section first because the other one's gonna have a big garage door header in it so we're going to build that second so first we're going to take this bottom plate we're going to lay it right up against this plate flush from in the end all we got to do now is transfer the marks from the bottom plate to the top plate using a framing square we simply just Mark right through that Mark we made then just put the X we know our studs will line up here we just keep transferring the marks from bottom to top plate the outdoor kitchen beam is going to be sitting right here on this wall I'm also going to go ahead and lay that out real quick so I know I'm going to have six inches worth of posts so it's going to be studs all stacked together and then I'll have a king stud so inch and a half for the king stud so right here I'm going to go ahead and make that layout so I know when I'm laying out the wall I can go ahead and do that while I'm at it up and then this is all we'll call this post and when I get here one thing I failed to Mark here is the king stud so I'm going to go ahead and Mark that here this is the king and also some people call these trimmers I call them Jacks so it all depends on where you came from so right here that we can say so we'll say Jack Jack [Music] I'm now going to build the header that's going to go in the wall for the window now as you can see here I got an inch and three quarter LVL that's nine and a quarter inches wide and if you're wondering how did I come up with those specs for this build well whenever you order trusses you're going to have to have the engineer that made the trusses give you the specs that you need for your lvls and then you have the engineer seal on the prints whenever they arrive with the trusses so that way you can show the inspector that they're to the specs of the engineer but since we need a rough opening a 72 and a quarter we need to add six inches to that in order to give us an inch and a half an inch and a half on each trimmer or Jack on each side so it'd be three inches and three inches so we come up with 78 and one quarter inch is what this header needs to be now that I got it marked I'm just going to take a framing square and Mark it to cut it and you can cut this stuff with a simple circular sole [Music] now it's time to cut the jacks or trimmers that's going to support the header in order to do so here's a scrap piece of the header if I take a measurement I get a measurement of nine and one quarter so I know all I have to do is measure off the top of one of these Jacks not in a quarter and then cut that off and that's going to be the height I need and cut those and that's going to be our Jacks cut four in order to get ready to build both of the jacks I'm now going to nail the Jacks together and I'm going to be using three and a quarter inch framing nails with my pneumatic nailer now for sheathing we're going to be using smaller Nails I'll show you that in a bit but I'm just going to load these up in the gun and I'm simply going to nail each one of these trimmers on top of the king stud these are just full pre-cuts and these are nine foot walls so they're 104 and 5 8 inches long just so you're aware and now I'm just going to place them right on top of the full ones like so and always wear ear protection when using the pneumatic nailer and now when it comes to nailing these together we need to make sure our bottoms are flush with each other I just like to use a speed square and we need to make sure our sides are as well so I'm going to place it together like so so now that we're good we're going to lock a nail in this Bottom now since there's one locked here we're going to go up the side of it and do the same thing we're going to get them flush and nail a nail in it as we go and now I'm going to flip it over and I'm going to put some Nails going into it this way as well and there's nail head sticking out at the backs of these a lot of inspectors will look to make sure the nails are long enough by inspecting if the nails went through the king stud just so you know foreign and along with ear protection I like to wear eye protection as well of course now we're just going to nail one more trimmer onto the jack all right the Jacks are now built I'm now going to cut the pre-cuts down in order to make the post at the end of the wall that's going to be holding the beam for the outdoor kitchen like I explained earlier so if I take a measurement here I got 13 and 7 8. so I gotta subtract three inches off that because this top needs to be flush with the top of the plate of the wall I'm building after it's capped and everything so that way the trusses will sit flush the wall then keep running across this beam so I need to cut it 10 and 7 8 inch the studs that is in order to make the post to hold this beam [Music] we're now going to separate these plates so we need to put it together but we're going to get out here to where we can spread it apart enough and we're also going to elevate it off the concrete so if any nail angles down it doesn't damage the concrete and we're now going to lay the studs and all the Jacks and everything into place and then nail it together but let me show you how to nail it together I got a pre-cut here for this nine foot wall and whenever you lay these out you always eyeballed down them in any type of crown that's in it you want the crown up because you want that facing out on the outer side of the wall because it'll hide it much better that way so that looks like the Crown's up here so we have it sitting upright so we're going to come to the First full stud it's going to be right here to right there and now we just lay everything out nail it together [Music] I'm now going to show you how to nail the studs to the plate this is the top plate here and the first thing we need to do is get lined up with the line and you're going to notice if these are a little twisted you ought to nail one end and then kind of twist it to get it lined up the best but I always keep it flush with the top or the bottom but typically we push it down in order to make everything flush on the inside and we're going to tack a nail in that very bottom foreign and now make sure we're on that line really well so you might pull it over a little bit like I do here then I'm going to put another nail on it and I put one more always put at least three Nails holding the stud to the plate and then do the same to every stud and make sure you put the stud on the X and not on the other side of the line that's a common mistake so that looks good and like I said sometimes you might just stand on this in order to get everything flush with each other all right and just keep nailing it off I'll nail off the top then I'll nail the bottom [Music] now I'm going to nail the bottom off and I recommend having a pipe wrench or something of that nature to where you might have to twist these into place because whenever now I'm straight up at the Top If there's a Twist in it it's really going to be pronounced down here so you'll have to fight it so I always carry a pipe wrench when I nail the bottom off as you can see this post is going to Twisted down as well [Music] all right [Music] I'm now going to cut and install the cripples for this window so if we measure back here we got six inches from the floor to the top of that sill plate so we know if we want the bottom of the window at 48 inches I got to measure up 42 inches so then I got to subtract an inch and a half in order to have the top of the sill there so I'm going to cut these cripples 40 and a half inches and then we're going to put the header in after we stand the wall up because it's going to be really heavy for just two of us so with that being said we'll have to build that header down after we set the wall I'm now going to cut the window sill and we're going to cut it exactly the rough opening width of the window opening so it's 72 and a quarter inches it's already have it marked here at 72 and a quarter so we're just going to cut that right off now we're going to go ahead and cut the cripples 40 and a half inches I'm now going to transcribe the layout that's on the bottom of this plate onto this sill it's nice and tight so now we'll just mark it right off the old marks and put the x's on the side of the line where they go now we just nail the cripples just like we did the studs but I'm going to have to nail one right against the side of this trimmer [Music] again because there's only two of us we're limited with the help so we're going to go ahead and pick this wall up and shift it into place and then stand it typically we'd go ahead and put the header in put sheathing and all that if we had enough help but we don't today but we're going to keep going okay so let me get the saw horses ready foreign [Music] now that we got it stood up we just got to brace this side and go ahead and Plumb it up let's go to the scrap pre-cut two by six here just going to tack it to the side now I'm going to go ahead and plummet where I need it go out there looks good I'm now going to go through make sure my half inch is correct across this bottom and then just tack couple Nails in across into this sill plate but I do got to go back through later with galvanized nails for the final nail off because galvanized nails will not corrode in that sill plate [Music] we're now going to finish off this header that it's sitting up here temporarily and we did not nail this so we can get our nail gun to nail it into the side when nailing the plows of the LVL together refer to the spec sheet that was sent with the lvls [Applause] [Music] I'm now going to lay out for the piece to build down the header I'm just going to let it ride up against my old layout kind of the same idea where it's going to mark it just like we did for the other cripples because these cripples were so small to build down this header I also could have padded it down with multiple layers of the 2x6 but I think it'd been better to save material using the little blocks and now we're building the wall that's in between outdoor kitchen and the garage [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] the next header that I got dressed in this next wall is going to be made out of two by twelves and this is going to be three plot thick it's a little Overkill but since the 2x6 wall I had to add another plot to it because of that so with that being said I got to cut three pieces into 39 and a quarter inch in my rough opening for the window is 36 and a quarter inch but I had to have three inches for an inch and a half trimmer an inch and a half trimmer so I'm going to cut this down to three pieces I'm now going to rip this sheathing down to fit in between the header that's just going to keep it so it's spaced out properly for the wall now in order to make the header I'm just going to take one of the pieces of the 2 by 12 then put a piece of sheathing in between this and the next piece like so then we're just going to nail it together and then we keep everything square with the speed square and then we nail it in a w pattern is what I like to do straight on the ends and then a w in the middle all right now I'm going to flip that over do the same thing and now all I got to do is put another plow on it [Music] and now we got a solid header that's going to be for that window and that's going to support a ton of weight when it comes to framing walls it's often a good idea to build the window and door openings first and then install the studs so that way you can get that nice and square and exactly where you want it in the wall before you stand it and also after we stead the walls up we're going to frame up the next opening in order to finish up that one wall between the outdoor kitchen and the garage and when we installed this opening we had to cut out the bottom plate in order to open up for the garage door and then I also had to Pat it out using trimmers to get the exact width of our opening [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] the wall that has the garage header across it that's going to be a 16 foot wide opening I want to make sure I stabilize all these walls so I need to install What's called the sheathing the sheathing is about 7 16 inch thick we just allow a half inch thickness for it in the field while we're working but it's technically 7 16 and because I use the pre-cuts for nine foot walls were 104 and 5 8 inches tall I had to get the extended sheathing that measures nine foot now if you're going to be building a regular 19 5 8 inch you're going to need a standard eight foot now this is going to be for my roof but that's for later in the video so that being said I want you to note these marks going across the sheathing if we take a measurement that's going to give us our layout to nail 16 on Center and then if you're nailing two foot on center right there's your layout so this layout and this layout is going to be nailing the does going up the wall so that being said I'm going to start by installing this on this wall behind me this was the first wall we laid out in this video I'm switching to the 2 and 3 8 inch nail these are the clip head just like the other Nails I was using except these are for the sheathing if you remember correctly we allowed a half inch lip here in order to set the sheathing on and it'll also make it flush with the block and the sill plate once the sheathing's installed but to make installation easier when I'm installing it by myself I take two eight penny nails one on this end and slide it right under where the sheathing is going to lay pack it into place then I come out here to the other end and do the same thing and that's going to give me a lip to set my sheathing on without trying to fight it and set it on this little half inch flip so now that we got the nails here to secure it I'm going to set it up into place sorry if you hear a little hissing sound I got a little air leak in my nail gun all right so I'm going to go ahead and set this right on those nails now I'm going to get flush the outside of the wall that looks good now I'm going to take my nail gun tack some Nails in the bottom now here's a real important part because these walls are not sitting perfectly Plumb we got to use this sheathing in order to get it square and Plumb so what we got to do next is make sure our wall is flush outside the sheathing and if we are we're good to go if not we got to rack the wall in order to make it perfectly plump so whatever it takes make the wall Plumb and your sheathing line up with the studs that's what you got to do so Plum walls is number one so I'm just going to put my level on the side of this wall and it looks like we're sitting really good nice and plump so I'm going to go ahead and lock a nail to hold this into place and it looks like we're sitting good still all right so that segment where we want it now we gotta nail off the sheathing and when you nail this stuff off you nail it off every six to eight inches and make sure you don't sink the nail heads too deep because this is what gives the wall Shear strength so it's what keeps it from collapsing left to right so which that's really important so make sure you don't sink your nails in all the way because they won't do anything so we just nail it to where it just sinks the head slightly [Music] and now because I'm 16 on Center I'm going to nail down this one and this one so this would be for two foot on Center but as you've seen earlier I laid out 16 on Center and because you laid it out correctly we're breaking right in the middle of this stud I'm now going to go through and nail off everything I can reach by my arm's length and then I'll get on a step layer nail off the top oftentimes wall sheathing needs to be spaced an eighth inch apart in order to allow for expansion and an eight penny nail will do just that [Music] now that I got these three pieces of sheathing out off I wanted to show you this lip as you can see because we compensated when we frame the walls and set them now we're flush here so whenever we install our siding it's going to overlap the foundation give us a nice smooth transition I'm now about to start the other wall let me show you something this was laid out just like we did on the last wall except as you can see we break even on a stud here like we should but I'm pulling off the edge of the wall like that that's going to allow our drywall to break evenly inside but we need to address it on this wall coming in here because it messes up our layout coming out so what we need to do is measure over and as you can see four foot will hit here if we start flush on that wall so we got to cut this sheathing back to break right here in the middle of this stud that's closest to the distance that we can cut down to so we got 37 and a half so now I'm going to cut or rip down a piece of sheathing 37 and a half for my starter in order to rip down this sheathing it's best just to keep it on the pile that it came in and put a 2x4 under it in order to cut it so now that's going to prop it up off the power sheathing so we can cut it without damaging the other sheets so all we got to do is measure 37 and a half off the edge we're going to make a mark come down to the other side and take our chalk box with us now I'm just going to hook right on this 37 half inch Mark and put down to the other side we're going to strike a nice line from Mark to Mark and now as you can see we got a red mark here and we're just going to rip right down that Mark and my saw set to cut down two by fours and two by sixes so we don't need it this deep so I'm just going to adjust it a little over a half inch deep so that way we don't cut the sheathing below this now I'm going to put on my ear protection and rip right down that line all right and I can put this scrap to the side and save it for later and remove my two by four and we're ready to start installing the next row in order to start the sheathing on this wall I'm going to go ahead and get it plumped up as you can see if you put your level on it it needs to go out the top knees go that way so that being said there's a simple fix especially if you're working alone a lot like me all I got to do is take a ratchet strap and I'm going to hook the ratchet track to the bottom of this corner and hook it at top of the window header then I'm going to ratchet it and pull that top over [Music] all right now we're nice and Plumb so now I can start the sheathing at the end I'm going to double check again when I get down there so now this wall is setting where it needs to be and we can sheet it properly foreign sheet it also needed racked over and I used a ratchet strap method and it worked fantastically now getting ready to build the opening for the garage door and I wanted to point out something when it comes to how the design of this garage is because I couldn't come through the Gable side I have to put this big beam across here now if you're coming in through the gables side you wouldn't have to have near a big of a beam as what we're getting ready to set because the way the trusses are going to sit on this wall and then the back wall and this wall here isn't going to have that much weight that's why the headers across this wall are much smaller than the headers for the windows across the back wall so we need to make this rough opening exactly eight foot finished because it's going to be eight foot tall door and it's going to be 16 foot wide so by the time the opening is built that's the exact measurements we need so we got the post here built that's going to set here to support this side of the beam then we got this wall with this post here going to be supporting the other side of the beam so we're going to go ahead and set these up and get ready to set the header [Music] before we lift this header up into place we're going to put kicker blocks on each side of the post in order to hold it so we can set it up there without it falling over one side or the other foreign [Music] that was the first ply of the three Plies now the rest of the plots are pretty straightforward we're just going to set them up into place and then nail them off and then put the next plile in and then nail it off as well and then nail it into the king stud secure it and then Square the post up so we're going to get the next plot there are a couple other methods to setting these beams one is you can pre-build this on the ground now all the Plies together and then use a crane to set it into place or you can also use a skid steer to lift it up into place after you build on the ground as well for us this was the more efficient way of doing it and we've done this several times in the past handling these beams are not something that a amateur should be doing I recommend hiring a professional to set the beams if you're not comfortable with it now that the header is set and nailed off and everything's plumbed up and secured I'm going to install the final trimmers here and as you can see if you take a look this rough opening has blocked down here and then I had to make this three inches wider than what the actual rough opening needed to be so that way once I put this trimmer on as you can see now it gives us exactly 16 foot after the other one's placed on [Music] to finish up this garage door framing as you can see we got exactly three inches to fill in right here so I could cut three inch blocks and go 16 on the center to continue to lay out across the wall but to make things really easy I got a bunch of leftover pre-cuts I'm actually just going to fill this in two Plies of the two by sixes in order to fill that crack in [Music] what I'm about to do now isn't going to be with every garage I have a covered outdoor kitchen that's going to be attach this garage so I got a set 26 foot beams connecting to the garage so I gotta put anchors onto the concrete in order to support the post for the beam so what we're doing first is hooking a string line down to the end of the building and pulling it to make sure we get it straight the post sitting straight with the structure so that's what we're doing first this in order to set this bracket I need to measure 26 foot off the garage to the edge of the bracket holding down next to the concrete you good there oh yeah I'm flush right with the end of this slab perfect I'm going to set this bracket three quarter inch off the string line which represents the edge of the garage because when I set this beam I got a piece of PVC board that's going to pad out the beam to finish it so I'm going to set it inwards just a little bit so I'm going to measure three quarters inch back I'm now going to Mark the center hole on the bracket I'm going to use my rotary hammer drill with a 5 8 drill bit to drill that out I'm now going to place the bracket back down over the hole and something cool about these it lifts the post off the bottom so that way it won't rot the post out so I highly recommend these if you got to Anchor a post to concrete now I got my impact driver and it's going to drive this right down into the concrete make sure I'm exactly where I need to be before I snug it up I have a post going between this post and the wall and I'm going to set it directly between the opening so I'm going to get a measurement from the edge of the garage right to the edge where the post will be setting foreign [Music] the height in which we got to cut this post so to do that we're going to temporarily set it into that bracket and then brace it and then we're going to level a line across to get the exact height [Music] as you can see we got the transit set up and we're just going to shoot a level Mark where it's setting against the post and over against the wall where it's going to be intersecting oh up a little bit down a little bit right there down just Smith up a little bit right there here is the level Mark that we just shot so all I gotta do now is just measure right up to where the top of the post is inside of the wall is setting so I got about 62 inches so all I got to do is measure up off my level mark on the post 62 inches we're now going to take the post down and cut it to the right height the level Mark is right here so if you remember correctly I just got to measure up 62 inches off that Mark so if I do such a thing that puts me at right here at 62 inches so that's the height in which I gotta cut the post in order to cut this off with a circular saw all we got to do is put a mark right around the whole post all we got to do is square right off the side of the post to make the marks I'm not going just the blade of my saw as deep as it can go and cut each one of those marks I'm just going to take my Sawzall to finish the cut and you can cut this on a 12 inch miter saw as well which it's much easier but the circular saw works great we're now going to set the post back in place and Brace it twice as good because it has to sit here permanently now good [Music] I'm now going to drive these galvanized nails into this flange in each nailing hole to hold the post into place and you can use Tico nails they're much shorter than this but I'm going to use these longer galvanized nails foreign do to sit this 26 foot beam it's actually 26 foot six and a half inches to be exact because it has to go back in that pocket we have two pieces of scaffolding set up one on one end one on the other and also got a board nailed to the top of that post so we can have something to set the beam up against and then once we get this first ply set we got two more applies so we're simply going to work one end up together then one end up to the other [Music] [Music] all right [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] to install the post in the middle it was very easy all we had to do is measure between the beam and the anchor and then get that measurement and cut the post accordingly and then as you can see we hit it right into place and plumbed it up well and then anchored it and now we're going to build the beam that's on the other side of the outdoor kitchen that's going to attach to the other side of the garage foreign as you can see the beam is sitting nice and level and that is exactly what you want and that method of using the transit work great to make sure we're going to cut the post level now that we got all the sides done to the garage as far as framing of the walls and the beams for the outdoor kitchen we got to make sure our walls are really straight because the truss is going to sit from the one wall to the other so it's going to hold all the weight and that's what we got to run our trusses off of as well and before we put our next plate on the walls it's important to do this step now because after you double plate those walls it's really hard to get them to move straight so what I'm going to do is put a string line from that point in the garage to this point in the garage and get the garage wall straight first then work on the beam so let me show you eyeballing down the wall what it looks like so here I am eyeballing down the back wall as you can see it represents a snake and we don't want a snake we want a Straight Arrow so we need to put a string line on it and then brace it accordingly to hold it perfectly straight at the very top of this first corner I'm just going to take okay inch half material it happens to be a two by six I'm going to tack it right to this corner I angled this nail in order to hook my string line to it now I'm going to do the same to the other corner of the garage all right now I'm going to hook my string line to this side and we're going to pull it tight and use it to make sure we got a straight wall here and now we're going to brace and measure inch and a half off the sheathing as we go across and once again half all the way across then we know our wall is perfectly straight a good place to start is right in the middle of the wall here's a window of where I cut the sheathing out of already I want to take a measurement here and I got right at an inch and a half where I'm at there so I know I'm good because I already took the brace off that was holding it out of plumb there it's now going to hold it back up check to make sure we're still inch and a half and we need to come out a little bit just push it out a little bit okay all right now I'm going to have my helper hit the nails to Anchor it all right let me check that and we're good go ahead and sink them all the way and we're perfect right at an inch and a half now we know where wall is perfectly straight from that point to here now we need to get in between to make sure we're straight as well now's a good time to take the Sawzall and I got a nine inch blade here I'm going to cut out the sheathing in these openings so I can use them for a place to brace boom now we got the window open we can use this to brace against here's a special case for bracing the wall sometimes if you don't have a good way to brace from the inside out to push the wall out because I got concrete here what you can do is wedge one down the bottom of the one wall That's stationary that isn't going to be moved and then we need to push this top out so we just wedged the board here and pushed it and got it wedged to where it is pushing it out now we gotta make sure we got an inch and a half then once we do we'll just tack a nail in top and bottom of this and it's going to hold it until we get our trusses set now he's on that inside corner where that board is wedged if I take a measurement here it needs to come out about a quarter inch yet so he's going to drive a nail on that top to drive it out all right go ahead all right now we got exact where we want it now it's eyeballed down this wall and see what we got now as you can see after bracing it and getting an inch and a half off that string line across that garage wall it's perfectly straight and we are ready to double plate it so we got to do the same to the beams and all four walls before we double plate them I'm now going to show you how to double plate these walls we're going to go ahead and slide this 16 footer right on top of this wall and now here's an important concept when it comes to putting these plates on let me show you how it overlaps the top here as you'll notice this wall is coming in this wall is butting to it so whenever you double plate in the corner you want to make sure it laces over the wall like that so now you're really secured from this wall to this wall before the framing is complete that's going tied in really strong I'm going to nail it here first so it's going to hold this wall to this wall as I nail it off here and then just line it up with the inside of the wall like so and then just nail it about every 12 inches with two nails and now you just continue that same pattern around all the walls until they're all complete [Music] now time to unband the trusses and get them laid out across the ground and prep them for the crane to lift them into place so we're going to do that [Music] when they ship the trusses they always stack the gables on top of the pile so that way you can pull them off to get them prepped for the crane now that I got both Gable trusses laid out this is for the furthest side where the outdoor kitchen is going the other Gable on top of this hill is for this wall here on the very opposite end so you can see we'll be sheeting this side first and then we'll be putting our blocks on for our overhang so we gotta first put the sheathing across here when we do the first rows of sheathing on the Gable truss we hold down an inch as you can see here after we hold down the inch I'm going to attack it into place using an eight penny nail and then I'm going to walk over to the other side of the sheathing and repeat that so we know that our sheathing setting square with the Gable truss when nailing the sheathing on make sure you hold up at least an inch and a half if not you'll catch that nailer that we installed earlier and if you do that it's going to slow you down when it comes to setting the Truss is and you don't want that now time to build the rake overhang onto the Gable truss so a very important tool here is a speed square it'll make your life way easier so we first gotta find Long 16 foot two by sixes and we want to make sure they're straight so I'm going to just eyeball down them just like we did the other boards and that looks good the little bit of bow is up here so got laid right like this now I got to put a 712 pitch up here at Top This is the top of the overhang so in order to get a 712 pitch and I know this needs to be a 712 because my trusses are so whatever your trusses are is the pitch we got to cut so if you take a look we got our common numbers here so here's my seven right here's the pivot point we're going to line the Pivot Point up with the top of the overhang and then we're going to get a seven on the common then we're going to make a mark right here where a line I should say gotta cut that out all right so we got our 712 pitch here now we're going to cut another one for the opposing side going this way now I got to put a layout two foot on Center for my blocks to overhang and now with this I like to start down about three and a half inches that's going to give me room for when I put a block here as you can see it's going to miss down here so my blocks won't hit each other from the peak you'll understand more when I start shooting this on and now all I gotta do is do a two foot on Center layout going down the whole overhang now I'm going to take my speed square and just make the straight lines down the layout I now got to put my layout on the truss starting from the peak I got to measure down three and a half whatever we put on the ever hangs board we gotta put on this truss so I'm going to measure down three and a half and make a mark and now I'm just going to take a nail and Tack it into the truss right there and I'm going to pull a two foot layout off that nail and now we do the same to the other side of the Truss for this part when I put the layout onto the truss I like to use a framing square because sometimes we rip that sheathing off it's not cut perfect so if you use your speed square it's going to go off that sheathing instead of the truss so the truss is always what we want to go off of so we're just going to hold square right onto that layout and then we are going to do that right up the Truss because we want to finish one foot overhang we're cutting blocks 10 and a half inches because by the time we put the board on it's going to give us a 12 inch overhang now that we cut a pile of these 10 and a half inch blocks we're going to just throw them right at each of the layout we're now going to take the framing nailer and line the blocks up right onto our layout make sure we're flush with the top of the truss again don't go off the sheathing because it can be off sometimes when you rip it off so make sure you're flush with the top of the truss and toenail it onto the layout [Music] now I'm simply going to nail the board that we put the layout on and we cut the 712 on this upper part we're going to line it up with our layout that we laid out on this board with the blocks that we shot to the Truss when nailing the fascia board on and technically this is subfacial because I'm putting aluminum fascia over this when it's all done but you just work it like trim just pull it up and down to match the blocks that were toenailed onto the Gable truss and with a little bit of time and patience you're going to make this thing look nice and straight after the Gable is set in the peak where the fascia boards join I do like the nail the fascia boards together on the face I simply just angle it right through the top of the peak into each fascia board [Music] a couple things about these Gables I have to frame in for a window in the center that's why I did not finish that sheathing there and I want to set it and slide in the subfloor up into that opening before I frame it in because it's going to be much easier that way so that's why I left that out and something about the end of this board is we're going to extend this come out flush for the overhang on the eave side so that's why that 2x6 stops right there so that's going to get finished up after we set this truss now it's time to put the truss layout going across the tops of the load-bearing walls so that's going to be the 64 foot wall going out this way and 64 foot wall going out this way that's going to be supporting the weight so the wall behind me actually won't really be holding any weight at all so again that's why the headers in these walls on the ends are very lightweight compared to the ones on the load-bearing walls so I'm going to show you the truss plan up close whenever you order trusses for your garage or a house even it's going to come with a set of plans like this this it gives you the square footage and everything of the roof so this is a very important piece of paper to have as you can see we have our 64 foot length here and then we see there's a two foot on Center layout for each truss and right here is going to be the openings for the stairs so that's why you see a gap right here because we've got to allow a place to go into the upstairs of this garage right here is the side width and as you can see we got the a01s going across here then we switch to these double trusses that are going to support the weight of this opening and then we got the a01s going across here to finish and then these are the gables that we set up yesterday these are the ones we put the overhangs on so now that we know our layout for the trusses all we got to do is put this layout going across each 64 foot wall to begin the layout I'm going to use a 100 foot tape because clearly a standard tape isn't long enough to go across the whole wall so I'm just going to hook at the end of the structure and run it cleared down to the other side of the garage foreign as you can see we got the tape laid out across all the wall and it ends right at 64 foot before I go up on the ladder and put the layout across the wall I want to show you some things that I'm going to have to take with me number one is a speed square and a marker and if you don't have a marker you can use a pencil as well either one will work fine so this is going to be for putting the layout on the wall and next thing that I'm going to take with me or what's called hurricane ties now these are for the code here we got to have a way to secure the truss to the wall in a hurricane tie will do just that so again this for the up pressure in case there is a strong storm it's going to keep the trusses hooked to the structure so in order to connect those to the wall you can either get what are called Tico Nails these are for metal strap connections and if you don't want to use these with a hammer and drive them in by hand which it's a big pain there's a better option but it's going to cost a little bit more money me but it's what I use and this is a metal strap nailer and this is made by Bostitch there's a Metabo make some too there's all kinds of Brands they're even battery powered ones but I just got a simple pneumatic one and the nails that it takes come in a correlated nailing strap like this and these go right into the gun instead of using a hammer and nail so that's what I'm going to be using to secure them to the wall and if you want to purchase any of that stuff I'll put a link in the description below if you need to pick them up for yourself here's the first two foot layout Mark so all I'm going to do here is simply put a v just as if we're laying out a wall and then I'm going to take my speed square and I'm going to slide it up under this for now and then we're going to Mark right down that two foot on Center and we know got a little off right there but we know the truss is going to sit on this side so I'll put an X like that now all we got to do is take our hurricane tie and we're going to lay it right here see where it says plate down so we're going lay it right up against that layout like so and then secure it to the wall using a Kiko nail or a metal strap nailer now I just got to put a nail in each one of the holes on this hurricane tie and we just move on to the next one continue that layout [Music] next in order to prepare for the trusses I'm going to add what's called a nailer to the exterior wall that is the non-weight bearing wall to where the truss can get nailed up against it and this will also create a drywall nailer as well so in order to do this we got to set the board right up on the wall and then we're going to measure back an inch and a half in order to space it correctly off the wall so as you can see I got an inch and a half off the wood not off the sheathing because the sheathing would be too far so we go inch and a half back off of the wood then do the same going across the whole nailer then once you got it spaced correctly we're just going to nail it on top of the wall using your framing nails foreign we also got the drywall nailer like I mentioned earlier I now need to place a string line going down the back side of this garage and the reason why I got to is because as you see there's a tail on these trusses they all have this exact tail on the end of them so if we measure over we're or about 10 and three quarters inch off the side of the truss and oftentimes your truss won't have this design like this where it comes up off the bottom it usually will come right off the back but I have this because I have storage in the upstairs so typically your tail would be clear down here but we got to get these measurements we got 10 and three quarters inch and in order to meet right here at this tail we got to come up about 16 inches off the wall in order to get a string line to run against this tail but I like to offset an inch from it because that's going to give me a place to measure back for my tape measure off the string line because if you use it right up against the string line it could keep pushing the string line out as you go so you always want to measure off the String Line instead of allowing the string to touch the Tails as you set your trusses so we got to put up a dummy board on the wall in order to support the string line and get it at the correct distances in order to support my string line I'm going to first nail a 2 by 10 on the edge on this garage I'm going to nail it to where it's flush with the outside wall yes I now have the 2x10 flush with this outside wall [Music] so that's going to support my board's going to go out to hold the string line I'm now going to measure 16 inches up onto that board and make a mark I'm now going to square a line right across there I'm now going to measure over 11 and 3 4 to give me my distance in which this has to overhang I'm now going to nail this line flush with the back edge of this board now going to Simply tack a nail here to hook the string line to it and we now do the same thing to the other end now that we got the String Line running with the wall and set off properly so now we can just measure right to the tail of the truss we're ready to go so the Crane's coming first thing in the morning and then we're going to set them I'm back here the next day after we got the trusses set I couldn't get the camera set up because there's just too much going on and the weather wasn't cooperating so I just want to go over exactly what we got done when we were setting the trusses the first thing we did was built what are called stiff backs or strong backs some people call them and we nail these to the exterior wall before we start setting the truss and when I say the trust the Gable trust that is this is the one that we built on the ground so we just slid it up there between the nailer and this stiff back and I got one on the other end and then we just nailed it to the nailer and nailed off that stiff back in order to set our first one then we plumbed it up the best that we could and also what we did is set up two sets of scaffold here and we set our OSB and then I put my tongue and groove subfloor that's going to go in the upstairs to this thing on the scaffold so that way the crane went ahead and set them up here in the air so we didn't have to lift them up by hand which was a big help and I did an overview of setting trusses and if you want to see that video check out the link in the top right hand corner of the screen and that's going to walk you through how I set these on another building as the trusses were being set if you take a look at this back end where the Tails of them are as you can see they're running nice and straight and that's because we use the string line and the plane of the roof looks really nice if you take a look across the truss we have 25 and a half inch blocks nailed on each one going across because that way it'll stagger the truss the way we want it two foot on Center as we install them so we have a row here on this side and there's also a row going across this side because one installer installed the one side one on the other as we installed the trusses so it spaced them appropriately and as we install this sheathing we'll take them off as we go after we installed the Gable in the first four trusses we installed this piece of sheathing on this side and the piece of sheathing on this side and that helped lock it and secure it into place so now we have a nice stable situation if we take a look down at the end of this room there's a piece on this side and a piece of OSB on this wall and that's also helped securing it until we get the roof on as we are setting the trusses as you can see we have two toenails on each side of the truss and then after the roof is on we'll nail off all those hurricane ties that we installed the other day I just want to quickly walk through how to install the subfloor all you got to do is take a heavy hammer and then use a board to protect the edge and then just hit it until it's tight against the other tongue and groove joint and then you bring one side down and then tack it then you nail the other side and now it's tight not going to move anywhere and then what you need to do after that is put the layout across the subfloor and be sure to nail it on the layout Before You Nail the rest of the joists off because if it's off it's going to stay there if you start nailing it from the bottom of the subfloor up if this subfloor was going into a house I would be sure to use subfloor adhesive but this is just for storage so I was not going to use that on this installation before we start installing the roof sheathing we're going to finish up this fascia board and finish up this overhang and tie them in together on all four corners in order to finish the rest of the overhang that's on the Gable truss I first measured the length in which I need to cut it then as you can see I just make a mark there with my pencil and then I take my speed square and I'm going to put a 712 pitch again line the seven with the common and then pivot it until it meets it and if you have a 512 roof for a 412 you just use a four or five depending on your roof and then we Mark the angle and then we just simply cut it and then install it to finish up whenever you are working up in the air there is a inherent risk so always be careful and if you're not comfortable with it do not do it at all as you can see after we nail the overhang on it looks really nice and that's going to finish up well now I'm going to measure up 48 and a half inches and put a nail to hook my chalk line to run it over to the other side of the roof 48 and a half inches and charcoal line and that's going to be a line I'm going to use is my starter for my first row of sheathing and that's going to give us a nice straight start and as you you can see I did have to frame in between the two trusses that were the girder trusses and those are going to be for my stair opening that's why I had to do that so I just had to cut blocks and fit and then in my next video I will show you how to hook the joist hangers and this is a sheathing clip and I gotta put these in between the pieces of sheathing because I'm installing these two foot on Center trusses and in order to sheet it with the 7 16 a half two Pi code put these sheathing clips into place and as you can see they just clip right on the sheathing [Music] [Music] oh [Music] [Applause] [Music] in that time lapse I was just tacking the sheathing down in the place and then after I attacked the whole roof down then I'm going to go through and nail it off and I just put the nails about every eight to six inches just like the wall sheathing the tool that I'm going to be using to install the roof paper is going to be this cap stapler and this cap stapler is very simple design you can see it has caps that get fed out the end and the other side has staples that feed through and it just catches the cap and Staples down whenever you're trying to staple and I'm going to use this for the house wrap as well so very handy tool to buy but it will cost you a little bit and I'll put a link in the description below if you want to check it out before installing the shingles on the roof I must first install an underlayment for the underlayment typically you can use number 15 felt paper or tar paper or you can use 30 weight tar paper but I like to use synthetic roofing underlayment the reason why I like this better than the tar paper it tends to hold much better to the roof when it gets windy or whatnot the felt paper or the tar paper seems to rip once the wind gets up so that's one real important thing in order to fasten the underlayment what's recommended are what's called cap nails cap nails look like this they're typically ring shanked with a cap on the end you would use a hammer to fasten the cap nail but since I'm using the cap stapler I am going to be using that instead of the hammer and cap nail method this is a good option if you do not want to buy the cap stapler [Music] foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] foreign I'm now going to install the house wrap around the garage and what this is for it temporarily helps keep water from penetrating to the sheathing and it also helps keep the structure air tight so we got to have this by code on all of our houses for a garage it probably doesn't matter but I'm going to do it anyways because we want things built right and this is nine foot tall and we're going to hold it right below the sill plate and overhang onto the foundation just a little bit and then it's going to go up to the top to where we got a block in that above eventually I'm not going to do that right now that's for the next video but this is going to be an easy install and typically I'd install this on the wall before I stood it but like I mentioned earlier we kept the sheathing off so when we keep the sheathing off we can't put the house wrap on obviously until after the fact so all we're going to do is go ahead and roll out this a little bit and I'm going to have to get my helper here to help me okay all right so now I'm just going to come over here and we're going to take it and I'm going to put a staple in it right here to hold it like I said just about a half inch or so over the foundation I'm going to pop a staple there we're going to get this nice and square all right looks pretty good when I put the cap nails in I'm just going to put them about every two foot apart or so and nail the edges heavier than the fields this around the whole garage [Music] foreign the house wrap in for doors and windows as you can see it's best to just cut an x pattern and then just fold it into the opening and nail it that way it protects the opening and also as you can see there's truss setting on every fourth stud and that's because we laid it the 16 on Center and came from the side in which we started running our trusses so that way it breaks right on top of a stud I'm now going to go over how much it costs to build what you just seen done here and this does not include the foundation or concrete work or the excavation that was done before this which that's in the other videos but when it comes to Fringe material that includes the studs and the sheathing and OSB it came up to sixty one hundred dollars and next the beams the lvls that you've seen installed for the outdoor kitchen and the garage and for the window that was six foot that came up to 2400 dollars in LVL beams and then the trusses which these were upgraded to the room trusses which gave me a second story and it came up to seven thousand eight hundred dollars and this gives me a grand total of Sixteen thousand three hundred dollars and this did not include any labor other than my time I had friends and family help me do this project if you're wondering how many days did it take me to do this project well it took about six days it took a couple days to do the walls about a day or so to do the beams then a day of setting trusses then a day of shooting in the roof and nailing it down and then the following day is when I did the roof paper and house wrap so it took about six days I still got bracing to do framing of the gables finishing up the joist hangers and some odds and ends if you want to see I'm going to do the rest of that check out this video it'll help you out thank you

Channel: The Excellent Laborer

Views: 102,235

Keywords: how to build a garage, garage, how to, how to build, garage build, how to build a workbench for garage, build, how to build a shed, how to build a workshop, how to build a workbench, how to build a concrete foundation, how to build a garage addition, how to build a garage workbench, how to build a detached garage, how to build a attached garage, how to build my own garage, how to build your own garage, how to build garage cabinets, building a garage

Id: ufvcMq8aJTw

Length: 70min 50sec (4250 seconds)

Published: Sun Jun 25 2023