Honda EU2000i Tear-down and Fix - Low Compression

hey guys welcome back so today i brought home this honda inverter generator it's an eu 2000 i and the person selling it was only asking 300 in the description he stated that it was running fine last week when it's suddenly shut down and hasn't started since you know he brought it to a local shop they told him it most likely needs a new valve and gave him a quote at which point he quickly ran the other way and just listed it for sale so i offered him 240 and he accepted so here it is anyway there's a few things that could have caused a shutdown like loss of spark low oil potentially loss of compression or a bad fuel pump so i'm going to get you set up a little bit better i want to get that access cover off i'm going to check the oil and then i'm going to pull the engine over and see if we get any signs of life yeah plenty of oil a little bit dirty but it's fine for testing okay we get the vent on eco off fuel and spark on and choke on try choke off and there's nothing so this was stored outside i am seeing signs of water down here i'm just gonna drain the carb out make sure there's no water inside that bowl there's nothing wrong with that fuel color looks good and i do see a drop maybe of water at the very bottom but that's it i don't think that's enough to cause it to not start so the carbs getting fuel the fuel is good potentially the jets are clogged but if it did shut down suddenly like you said you know i don't think it's a dirty carb so i'm going to check for spark next okay good we have strong spark i'm gonna pop the plug out and just make sure the plug itself is sparking okay good we got spark so we've got spark i think we've got fuel let's check the compression yeah that's not good so that's the problem i mean that compression is maybe 20 25 psi that's not enough so there is an issue on the top end hopefully it's valves but let me put a little oil down in the cylinder and try this test again so the number came up a little bit maybe 5 psi at best so that's actually a good sign it tells me that the piston and the rings are not the problem it's the valves either they're misadjusted or potentially need to be lapped or something else i'm not really sure i won't know anything else until i get this cover off so and we're in mostly the fuel valve the knob isn't coming off it's putting up a fight i don't want to break it so i think we have enough clearance to get these four bolts out which will allow me to remove the cover and inspect the valves okay so a few things stand out here i guess first off the valves do have clearance so if we're not building compression it's most likely not a valve adjustment there's probably something wrong with the valves so i'm gonna get the leak down tester put a little bit of pressure in here right now i believe both valves are closed so i want to see where it's leaking out of the engine is rotated to top dead center we've got clearance on both valves so i'm going to add a little bit of pressure i want to see which valve is leaking and most likely both are but one is probably worse than the other so we'll give it a little bit of pressure i'm just going to put my thumb on the exhaust that's a pretty big leak i also took the cover and the filter out of the air box so i'm just going to feel over there see if we get anything and there is a little something not nearly as bad as the exhaust so yeah we've got some valve issues so the head needs to come off you you so so okay well we're in i think next i i need to get this carburetor off and then the plastics kind of surrounding the engine that should then allow access to get the head off of the engine so well there's good news and bad news the good news is we've got the engine out we've got all the plastics removed and we have access to what we need the bad news is this head seems to be part of the block i don't think it's removable so instead of just being a top end issue i think we have to open up the sump take it off you know get the piston connecting rod basically all the guts out so that we can access the valves from down below okay everything's been expertly cataloged in these two boxes the oil most of it's been drained and i brought the engine up here on the on the workbench so next steps are to get the recoil the blower housing flywheel and stator off which will free up the crank so that way once we open up the sump we just have to disconnect the piston and the crank should come right out and just a side note too the plastic here i struggled with that for a while i did get it off eventually without breaking it but the correct way to uninstall it would have been to get the blower housing out of the way first and then that plastic would have come right off okay so next i want to get this off for the starter so i need to get a strap wrench around the flywheel to hold things still we'll get those off but first i need to get off the pulse generator so that i can get the strap wrench around the flywheel you the flywheel on this has magnets all on the inside here permanent magnets the stators in the middle you don't want to start banging on this or hitting it with an impact you might rattle some of the magnets off so the best way is just using a wrench until you get it loose it's probably about 40 foot-pounds tight right now and once it's loose there are other bolts if we rotate it you'll see them that are holding the stator and so you can remove those bolts also and this whole thing will just come out as one unit okay i think this puller should fit okay i'm gonna leave the nut on i actually don't have bolts that came with my puller set that fit this size hole so the exhaust bolts from the other side fit in here perfectly so i'm going to use that to hopefully get this off do yeah these bolts are bending so i'm afraid to torque it anymore something is going to break i need to think about what to do next here okay new bolts new puller hopefully new results okay i think that's it yep do [Music] um it's amazing how much build up there is in here you know i've picked at these just a little bit and it comes off pretty easily i think the only concern is these wires are delicate they're insulated you don't want to damage them so you know before putting it back together i'll pick at this a lot more and try to get it looking halfway respectable so that bullet's making me nervous so foreign you it's not too bad uh do the pistons not too bad given the amount of hours a lot of carbon buildup but not too bad the crank also looks pretty good the valves actually don't look too bad at least there's no broken parts so let's get the exhaust valve off first and see what that looks like it doesn't look half bad so i want to try well i'm going to clean this up and try to lap this in see if it makes any difference so there's a closer look at the valve seat and it doesn't look bad i mean i don't see any defects but it is kind of hard to tell there is a lot of carbon buildup down there and i have a feeling that that it was holding the valve open a bit so we need to decarbon that and then we'll wrap the valve in and do another leak down test [Laughter] do [Laughter] okay the valve's cleaned up really well you know i use scotch brite spun it in a drill and then sandpaper 800 grit 1500 grit and 3000 grain so this this is the intake here i mean this valve wasn't an issue before cleaning it up but it's been cleaned it's been lapped and it it fits in there perfectly when you drop it in you can't spin it it's making good contact all the way around exhaust valves a different story even after cleaning and lapping it the first time you'd put it in and you just spin that valve it was making very poor contact with the seat so i did lap it a few more times and now it is fitting a lot better so hopefully this will do what it needs to but there's also some pitting going on it's very hard to see but in certain areas you can see where there's pitting and that is going to let compression buy and lapping isn't necessarily going to fix that so most likely i'll need a new exhaust valve i do need a new timing belt this is cracked all around so this definitely needs to be replaced and as far as the cylinder goes i ended up using a dremel just with a brass brush and got most of the carbon off it's not completely done yet but you can see it's a big difference from where we started i'd say the exhaust side still needs a bit more work but the big concern here is the cylinder you have to be careful you don't hit that with the brush or you gotta create another problem that wasn't there before so i think it's good enough for testing i am going to put the valves in put the piston back in just loosely reassemble the sump and we'll do a proper leak down test and see where we come in at so so so so okay just gonna zero out the gauge here on the right and on a new engine when testing for leak down you're gonna have at least five percent somewhere between five and ten percent all engines leak it's just a matter of how much and of course the more they the more they leak the less power you have on that engine so you know this one was leaking pretty badly i didn't do a proper leak down test earlier but it probably would have come in pretty close to 100 leaked down in this case i'd be happy with anything in the green really happy with 20 or less we're at fifteen percent that's pretty good exhaust is tight teeny bit coming out of the intake that's good that's a good number i mean considering how many hours are probably on this engine i don't know how many but just looking at it it's been used quite a bit so 15 leaked down is very good this engine should run without issue but i am going to replace that valve anyway that one is showing some signs of wear and timing belt has to be done no questions so while i'm waiting for those parts i'm just going to start cleaning this thing up a bit the bits i was waiting for came today we got the timing belt some different gaskets we got a new oil seal and i think more most important is the new exhaust valve so i want to spend a minute lap that in probably lap the intake again as well and i've already cleaned up the block pretty well both outside and in as well as the stator so i'll do the final lapping clean the block one more time then start getting this thing back together i'm gonna start by replacing this oil seal i mean i don't think it was leaking but since we're in here just putting some oil on the seal there's no lip in here so you have to drive it in just about to the end on the on the far end here and keep it flush you don't want to go beyond that point because then it will hit the ball bearing on the crank so you so just to show you the timing on this this dot here should line up with this ridge here so that is top dead center and if you look up here on the cam it's hard to see but there are lines on the cam that should be parallel with the top here if i turn it you'll be able to see there's one of the lines turn it the other way there's the other line so those are even with this plane and this lines up to that so we know the timing's good now to lock this in there's a pin that goes in and honda does recommend that you not reuse the seal so i got a new one of those you in case you're wondering i used the same roloc bristle brush by 3m to clean off all this old rtv it's a pretty safe brush it's used commonly to clean up you know heads on engines and it's fairly safe for aluminum as far as the rtv i'm going to use the permatex ultra gray so so i need to wait about an hour before i can torque down on the sump bolts so while i'm waiting i'm going to adjust the valves the service manual calls for 0.15 millimeters on the intake and 0.20 on the exhaust that translates into about six thousandths of an inch and eight thousandths you yeah that's pretty good the seven does not fit seven thousands the six feels pretty good do do do yeah it's pretty good and eight fits feels a little bit loose but a nine does not fit and it has a point zero two millimeter tolerance so i think we're good as good as the honda service manual is kind of surprise they don't list the torque value for the sump cover so the only thing i have to go on is the bolt size it's six millimeter and in that manual they do state that that six millimeter flange bolt should be tightened to nine foot pounds there is a pattern for tightening these it's one two three four five six seven eight so do okay good there's nothing scraping you know the stator and the flywheel clear each other also the pulse generator clears the little magnet on the flywheel so we're good to continue so so so so bummer this has to go behind here do got the test tank hooked up light plugged in almost ready to give this thing a try i do need to plug in the switch so i can kill the engine if i need to [Music] [Applause] nice i put a bunch of oil down the cylinder so hopefully that's just smoke burning off we'll give it a minute so i was a little bit nervous on this one it was a lot of work to get it back together but it did start up sounds pretty good too you know the carb i thought for sure i'd have to pull it off and clean it but i don't think that's the case it's running both well at low speed and high speed and the smoke took a while to burn off but it is gone so we're in good shape just going to get this back inside and finish putting it together so we're in the home stretch here pretty much ready to button this thing up i think the big outstanding item is just hooking up the fuel pump and getting all the fuel lines plumbed in and that's when i realized i forgot to install the pulse line for the fuel pump so air box has to come off again we'll get this connected and then finish this thing up so [Applause] [Applause] you you you this [Music] you things cleaned up pretty well all the paints off i mean the plastics aren't in new condition by any stretch there are still some issues some glue lots of scratches but you know overall it's much better plus it runs anyway uh fill the tank with fuel there is still gas in the bowl from testing so it should start right up i want to see that the fuel system primes it keeps running and then i'm just going to load it up at about half load for a couple hours make sure that things are good [Music] so [Music] this thing ran perfectly for two hours like a clock no issues and i shouldn't say no issues i think this is more an annoyance this cap is rattling and this cap is actually a newer design they didn't come on the original eu2000s this is almost like one you'd find in your car when you tighten it it clicks and because of that this top piece is actually separate from the bottom and that's what's rattling around i took a quick look online seems to be a common problem the original eu2000s had a different cap without this and that cap is available it's only like 20 bucks so i've already ordered that and you know this machine despite the way it looks it isn't that old you know the listing said it was four years old and when putting it back together i did see an emission sticker kind of on the side of the blower housing and it was certified six years ago so this thing is definitely no older than six years old and yeah i was kind of doubting that based on what i saw inside and out but this thing's pretty young and hopefully has a lot more life left in it so hope this video helped someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 368,118

Keywords: Clean Valves, Compression Test, EU1000, EU1000i, EU2000, EU2000i, Fixed, Generator, Honda, Inverter Generator, Lap Valves, Leak Down Test, Low Compression, No Compression, Permatex Ultra Grey, Rebuild, Repair, Small engine, Soark Tester, Starot Removal, Timing Belt, Timing, Troubleshooting, Valve Adjustment, Will Not Start, Won't Start

Id: iO2a9I4VfDk

Length: 71min 53sec (4313 seconds)

Published: Thu Apr 15 2021