Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com. Today
we're starting in on a new project. That project? We're going to be doing a complete engine rebuild
on our 2005 Honda CRF450R. Now to start this out, we need to get that engine out, take it over to
the tear down bench and break it all the way down. Now just for fun, I want to show you the kit
that I've chosen that we're going to use to rebuild this engine, and what we've decided to
go with is a kit from Wiseco called a Garage Buddy. And with this kit, you get everything to
do a complete rebuild starting all the way down at the crankshaft, going all the way up to the
rings on the piston. It is a very comprehensive kit with new bearings and seals and gaskets and
O-rings and pistons and rings-- I mean just about everything we're going to need to get this
engine back up and running in top condition. They even give you an hour meter so you can
keep up with how much time you're putting on your machine after it's been rebuilt.
So now that we've got this kit set out, let me go open up my toolbox and
we're going to dive into this project. Step number one: well we need to go ahead and
get all the fluids drained out of this machine. That means fuel, oil, and of course coolant.
Let's start with the oil, and it's over on the other side. Now our drain bolt is a 10 millimeter
located right up under the shifter, but before we move it, let's go ahead and pull the fill.
Make it easier for it to drain out. Now to get as much oil as we can out of it,
crank the engine over just a couple of times. We'll let it finish draining and then
we'll turn our attention to the coolant. Now to get to the drain
bolt for it, we just need to pull off this little protective cover, and then
it'll be an eight millimeter right at the bottom. It looks like it's finished draining. We'll
go and put that bolt in for the time being just so i can take it all apart in sections
here in a little bit. Next let's step over and look at the fuel tank, and I'll show you how
to drain it-- even though this one's already been drained. So to drain the fuel, you'd
want to turn your valve off. At that point, disconnect the hose going down to the carburetor.
Now this one's already been drained, otherwise some would spill out, so you want to have a paper
towel ready. At that point, go ahead and connect a hose to the end of it, bring it down to whatever
container that you're going to put it in. Open it up, let it drain. Really all there is to it.
Like I said, this one's already been drained. So here's what's going to happen next:
we're going to go ahead and remove the seat, the rear section, because that makes
it easier to get the carburetor out of there, the tank, then we'll drop out the radiators.
And at that point we'll be down to a few cable connections, electrical connections,
the the actual mounts for the the frame, and then it'll be ready to lift out.
Now the seat's pretty simple. Just a couple of eight millimeters we need to get
out, one on either side, back at the back. And lift it up, slide it back, there we go. Now
for the tank, we basically have a bolt up top, then there's supposed to be a strap here
at the back-- which is missing so I need to order another one-- and then we're going
to lift it off as an assembly with the shroud still attached so we need to disconnect from
the frame and the radiator. And basically all of those bolts are eight millimeter heads. It looks
like there's a washer missing in there as well. I just need to remove that bolt for the petcock. Actually on this machine, it's already been
disconnected from the hose going to the tank. You can lift it out still attached.
Then we can lift the whole thing out. There we go. The breather wasn't even attached.
Imagine it was building up a little bit of crank case pressure there. The uh, the breather line was
actually getting pinched over here under the tank. I think this machine's had a really tough uh, former life. What we're going to do
next is just remove the entire fender as an assembly. So we've got four bolts up front
going to the frame, it's going to be 12 down low. I'm going to the six millimeter Allen. That wasn't very tight. It makes me
a little suspect of the threads back in there. That's really loose. But before we
remove that, let's reach in, go to this Philips right here at the base of
the back of the carburetor. Now let's finish removing this and that
whole rear section should come out. Just have the exhaust sticking
out like an appendage. It's a neat thing about race machines: modular. Next let's focus on the exhaust, and we're
actually putting on a whole new system. This one's been a little bit beat on. Yeah, I don't think the
power curve cares for that dent there too much. So get the slip on off, then it looks like we've
got a 10 there and a couple of 10s at the head pipe. That should be all it
needs to split apart and release. Hopefully this won't fight us too bad. These
have a tendency of corroding and rusting. The ones for the head pipe, there's
two 12-millimeter nuts. That's it. Yeah, I think somebody's done some creative
welding on this one. Yeah that's not from the factory. A couple of cracks here and
there. This machine's been so abused. Next I'm going to focus on getting the radiators
removed. So let's go ahead and break it loose from the water pump. Do this side first, and
then we'll jump over and do the left side. Now I'm betting these hoses
have been on there for a while, and they're going to be a little bit ornery to
break loose. But let me show you a trick on that. Just grab it where the clamp was. You don't
have to put a lot of force on it. And just break the seal loose... for the
most part. Now we should be able to lift it off without too much effort.
Now be prepared: there still may be some coolant in the system, so go ahead and have
your drain pan under it when you lift it off. Yeah, a little bit more. Next let's reach in, take
off one of the top clamps. There it goes. Now let's reach over
and get that one at the bottom. All right, it should pull off when we get that
other one removed. That'll do it for the hoses. Now we just need to finish unbolting it from
the frame, and there's two eight millimeters: one down low and one up top. And we're
just going to push these little vanes back. Now is it absolutely necessary to remove the
radiators for this? No, but I want you to be able to see what I'm doing, plus I'm going to pressure
test these to make sure they're okay because let's face it: this machine has been through
a lot. There she goes. And there's just a overflow hose which it does not want to route up,
so we're going to disconnect the overflow tube from the radiator itself. Now see if we
can get that one to release. There we go. Now let's head over to the other
side, unbolt the other one, and that'll do it for the cooling system.
There is one one more hose I need to get, and that's going to the front of the
head. So let's break this one loose. Looking at this one guys, this one's gotten really
really hot. See how it's swollen up so much past where it was clamped? And that is feeling really
weak, so when we go to put this back together, we're going to at least replace this one. The
other ones, they look pretty good although I'm going to go back and inspect them one more
time. But if yours looks swollen up like this, it's time to go ahead and replace it. Because it's
not if, it's when it's going to break loose there. Go after these two on the front. Now let's go ahead and get the carburetor
disconnected. On the side I need to loosen up another clamp. I'll tell you what, we're just
going to take off this hose. Yeah, plus that's just about as hard as a brick, so I think
it's time for a replacement on that as well. Now all the vents are already pulled
up, so we should be able to pop it back off the intake and then bring it up.
This is a TPS switch if memory serves. Let's get the vent hose off. There we go.
Then what we'll do is we'll just zip tie it next to that little holder for the
front brake line. Getting closer guys. Disconnect our cable for the stator
and probably a crankshaft position. Now let's go ahead and disconnect the clutch. Push that boot back where
we've got some working room. We're going to need to loosen up the play
on it where we can wiggle it out of there. And the adjustment screw is not adjustable
anymore, so add that to my parts list. Yuck. Now the way this should have happened
guys, I should have been able to take the adjuster and screw it all the way in to have that
in line with the split. And then you should have been able to easily pull the cable, bring it
around, and then drop it out of the lever. This one wouldn't even let you bring the
adjuster in anymore, so what I had to do is actually grab the cable. And the way I
did it is I went ahead and engaged the clutch and put pressure on the cable, and when I
released the clutch I let it that pressure follow me out and that gave me enough distance
to then get the cable out of the split. But I'd say this cable is pretty much done
too, so I'm going to put that on my parts list. Now we can go in and disconnect this. There.
Now to give us a little bit more working room, I've got the course-- the coil cap pulled off
the spark plug. We're going to reach in here and just remove the coil completely to where
we've got some more room to negotiate the engine out of the frame. Because even if you
could get the engine out with it in there, chances are you're going to damage it. So why
not just go ahead and get it out of the way? Of course the top one has a 10 on the
other side, just a nut. There we go. Now you have the ground wire that was here,
and then the trigger that was right there. Get this other cover out of the way.
Now at this point I'd be telling you to remove your chain, but this one already has its
chain off. If it's a master link, you just remove your master link and then pull it out. And if it's
an endless chain, then you'll end up having to press out one of your pins to get it out
of there. So now we can concentrate on the engine mounting bolts, and we'll need to support
this temporarily so the machine doesn't collapse. That should do it.
Let's start off by getting out the uh, the top ones. There's gonna be four 12
millimeter bolts up top, two on either side. The upper motor mounts... All right guys,
to get this one, it's a 14 millimeter bolt on one side and a nut on the other.
And here we go. There we go. Fair amount
of corrosion in here, guys. That'll need to get cleaned up a little bit. It
was getting close but uh, it hadn't frozen up yet. Now let's get those other two 12
millimeter bolts out of the other side. Now let's get the, the brake pedal out of
the way, because it won't clear the swing arm bolt. May need a little bit of grease in there.
Dry to the bone. Then we'll do the swing arm. 22 millimeter here, guys. If the brake pivot
looks that bad, can you imagine what the swing arm is going to look like? I guess we're going
to find out here in a second. I'm betting bad. Afraid of that. Yeah, this is where the fun's
gonna begin. Because the harder I hit with this, the more it's gonna mushroom the end of it
because this is tapered, it'll just break loose. Marring up our frame. Don't do this to yours.
I think that broke it loose. No she has not moved yet. I guarantee you
this thing's corroded in there. Um hmm. All right this is probably gonna mushroom
it anyway, but we gotta do what we gotta do. Oh yeah, looking good, isn't it guys? It may have
been a little while since this has been apart. Those bearings in there, I'd say they're
in need of replacement. Just a theory. But I think we saved it. I'm sorry.
All right guys, I think we're down to a couple more bolts and she will be ready
to wiggle her way out of there... hopefully. Not quite the battle we had on the
swing arm, which is a good thing. Go ahead and disconnect the top
of the shock mount. Swing it back. All right, so we're going to go and get
that kickstarter handle out of the way. That wasn't on there very tight. All right guys, we only have one more little thing
to get out of the way, and that's the gear shift, and it's held in by a 10 millimeter bolt. So
what we're going to do guys, last but not least, let's lift it up, turn it in, rotate it 90
degrees, and then it comes out this direction. Let it sit there for a second. Well all right guys, there you go.
She's out of the frame. I'm out of breath and evidently really out of shape.
Next we're going to start tearing this down because like I said, we're going to rebuild
it from the crankshaft all the way up. But there's a couple other things we need to take
into consideration as we're doing the top end. As comprehensive as this kit is, there still may be
a problem with either the cylinder or the head, so guess what? I've got the cylinder ready to go
should we need it, and then a brand new OEM head. Now the good part of the Wiseco kit is it
was designed to work with the factory OEM equipment, so these are going to play well
together should they be needed. Well now that we've got all our parts assembled, let's
step over and start taking this thing apart. So let's get into it. Let's start off
by removing the valve cover itself. Now the cylinder head cover is only held
in by three 10 millimeter head bolts. And when I'm tearing down one of these, I
typically try to lay out everything in sections instead of jumbling it all together. Because it's
all fun and games when you're pulling it down, but two three four days maybe even a week later
when you go to put it back together? Sometimes I don't know about you, but my
memory is not quite that strong. So I need to have everything grouped together, and if there's a chance of all this getting mixed
up, what I typically do is use a Ziploc and just a sharpie and group everything together that way.
What I want to do first is go ahead and remove this little cover on the side, and we're
going to bring it around to top dead center. It's just good practice to do that. Even
though we are tearing it all the way down, it's just a better way to do it.
And we want this on the compression stroke, so that's going to be all the lobes up,
and i think we're on the compression stroke right now. It's about, 15, 20 degrees off, and I'll
show you the timing marks on both the camshaft and then down on the crankshaft as well.
So let's go ahead and bring it around. I'm off just a little bit. What you're looking for is that dot to align with
that pointer. What signifies it being at top dead center for the compression stroke is that your
cam lobes are facing up, and your mark is here, compared to your pointer back there. And looks like Honda even put a little bit of
white paint on the cam gear, just to make sure. Next let's get our cam chain
tensioner out of the way. I know Honda has a holder that
you're supposed to put in here. But we are just going to
back it off as is-- evenly-- because you don't want to just
run one of these all the way out, because that'll push against it unevenly
and potentially snap it. There we go. Next let's go and remove our cam gear, and I'm just holding the crankshaft
still so we can accomplish that. That's held in by two six millimeter Allens.
There's one. Now if you were doing this with the engine still in the frame, you will have noticed
that you can't get to that top bolt. Now if that's the case, you're going to need to rotate it where
the other one comes into view, and then loosen it. At this point you would want to attach a wire
to your cam chain, just to keep the chain from dropping down inside the crankcase. And you
could fish it out with a magnet, but why make it tougher on yourself than you need to? Next
we're going to do the camshaft assembly holder. We're not taking off the decompression cam
or any part of that assembly, so we're going to leave that together. What we're going to do
is just loosen each one of these 10-millimeter bolts in three or four steps to bring it up
evenly, and do it in a criss-cross pattern. Yeah, no tension on the cam, so we're good. When you lift this off, make sure you
don't drop your shim buckets out. And there's your shim. Now the shims they should
stay in the keepers up top. Sometimes they'll stick to the bottom of the bucket, just
be careful and not drop them down into the crankcase if all you're doing is the top end.
Now let's go for these two eight millimeters on the head at the base of the head. Then we're going to go for these four 14
millimeters-- the four main nuts that are holding the head down. And you may want
to get a longer ratchet like I'm using, because it's got a fair amount of torque
on it. See if I can hold this thing still. And we want to do this about a quarter of a
turn each so it relieves the pressure evenly. Break my arm doing it. All
right, looking good so far. Now it should be ready to lift off. At this point, I have to give it a little bit of
a tap to get it past the dowels. There it goes. I'd say she was running a little bit rich. May have to do something about that.
We get our gasket out of the way, and maybe lift off these two dowels.
Lift out one of the chain guides. This one actually looks in good shape. I
don't see any grooves or anything on it, so I think she can just keep on going.
Next there's just one eight millimeter bolt over on the side, and we'll be
ready to lift off the cylinder. There she goes. You can definitely see this one's got some miles
on it. Not a horrible amount of wear, but you can see where the skirts-- of course in line with
the rotation of the crankshaft-- they've been eating into the uh, the cylinder walls.
A little bit of scoring on both sides, that's to be expected. And I'm curious if
this was a big bore kit, which may be the case because I don't think this is a factory piston.
Because the factory piston has an "N" right here. So next we're going to reach in and
take out the circlip on one side so we can get our piston out. Now
if you're doing a top end only, it's important that you go ahead and put
a towel down here. Otherwise you drop in this circlip that I'm removing, it's going
to be really tough to get it fished out. Because they have a tendency of
flying away like that one just did. Now we need to just push the wrist pin through.
now I'm going to use a 3/8 extension to tap this out, but keep in mind you're tapping against the
connector rod and you do not want to bend it, so don't get carried away doing this. Just a light
tap is all you should be able to get away with. I'm even using a very light hammer to do this. There we go. So what we have here is an aftermarket cylinder
and piston kit that was installed on this. It looks like to be standard compression,
standard bore, and we can verify that-- this is a stock Honda piston for this
particular make and model and year-- diameter looks like a spot on.
The way you can tell if it's a higher compression one or not is to see if the piston
height or distance from the wrist pin itself to the top is the same, which it is. And I don't see
any protrusions coming up, or a dome if you will that would increase the compression ratio.
So it looks like it was a possibly a forged piston, nothing really special about it. We can
also see a fair amount of wear on the skirts, which you expect to see that, but that looks
a bit excessive. And I think I see why, because you'll notice you've got your oiler rings
or the oil holes on the oil ring, they're there. But what you'll notice when we look at the
Wiseco piston that we are going to be using, it actually has those same oil passageways, but
then it's got three more over here. Guess what? That is to let oil either in or
out to help lubricate those skirts, and then keeps it from actually scoring the
cylinder walls. So this is the piston we're actually going to use, and it is just the
stock compression ratio, stock diameter. And I could probably hone
the old cylinder out, but I really don't know where it came from. I mean,
did they-- being the manufacturer of this kit-- cast their own? Because it looks roughly the same
as the the stock Honda. Is it is good of quality as the Hon-- the stock Honda? I kind of doubt it.
So we're going to go ahead and replace the cylinder with a known good one if
we're going this far into the engine. But that's basically what they had: they
have-- had an aftermarket set up, probably a decent quality. OEM's fine, I just want to step
it up a notch and go with a Wiseco forged piston, new rings, etc., etc. Let's go ahead and
invest in a a new cylinder, that way I can sleep better knowing that it doesn't have
a score mark on the inside of the cylinder. Tell you what: go ahead and pull our shims out,
we'll keep them in the correct orientation. But I have a feeling we're going to end up
replacing the head as well, because this one uh, it failed a leak down test. I mean it was it had
like a 45 loss when I did a quick test on it, and all of that had to be going somewhere, and
I don't think it was blowing past the piston. I mean honestly, this doesn't look like
it really been in there that long. I was, I was quite surprised that
it wore off this coating so quickly, but like I said I don't know the uh,
the quality of the kit that they had in there. Alright looking at the head, I
don't think it's ever been modified. I don't see any sign of it having any type of
impact. Maybe a bent valve. I mean, everybody looks like they're seated down. We really won't
know until we actually pull the valves and take a look at the seats and see if they were actually
sealing up like they're supposed to. So we'll-- we will break this down further in just a little
bit. We'll bring out the spring compressor and uh, get those valves out of there. So we have
a pretty clear indication of where we're heading for the top end, now let's go ahead and turn our
attention to the bottom end, because we are diving all the way down into the crankshaft. Before
we pull it down, I just want to take a peek. Oh boy, yes, this one needs
a new crankshaft in it. You should be able to pick up on that. That's
well over an eighth of an inch side to side play. It's supposed to have a little bit, not that
much. So this is a a good candidate for a Garage Buddy kit no doubt. Now on the as far
as the side to side, I can definitely feel it, but on the vertical? Yeah, this even got it on the
vertical. So this bearing was getting ready to go. So we caught it before something catastrophic
was coming its way. So this is definitely, definitely going to be worth the time and energy.
So our plan of attack now, let's go after the clutch, get it pulled apart. Then we'll work
with our water pump, go ahead and get our stator cover off. Get all of those out of the way: the
output shaft, gear, and the cover, etc., etc. Take out probably a dozen or so bolts,
and then we're gonna split the cases and just take out the transmission as hopefully
a cluster and be able to lay it together. That way we can evaluate it make sure
we don't need to replace the shift fork or shift drum and all the gears look at least
acceptable. So let's go for the clutch first. All we have on this outer cover is
just six eight millimeter bolts. We will not be building it
back with the stock clutch. You're going to be using a kit from Wiseco,
but that will be in a separate video. So next we're going to get these six 10 millimeter
bolts out, and if you were going to reuse your clutch you want to let them out a little bit
at a time to bring it out evenly. Otherwise, if it brings it out cockeyed you run
the risk of damaging that basket. I'm pretty sure when they went in
here, over torqued those. Because I think they're only supposed to have like,
eight foot pounds or something like that. I guarantee you I'm putting a lot more effort
than eight foot pounds into removing them. A good torque wrench is important guys and girls.
Okay, let's start pulling this apart. Oh you almost came out. That's the
stack. I think it might-- heck yeah I love it when
that happens. It never does. Somebody had been through this engine
recently. I mean that is all but new. There's almost nowhere, no scoring, no anything. When you're doing this, make notes and
lay everything out as it comes apart, because it's going to be really easy
to make a mistake when it goes back together if you're putting
your stock one back together. Next we're going to get a chisel and
open up those stakes on either side, and then I'll probably just bring over an
air ratchet and we'll buzz that nut off. I'm not using anything really special here.
Just a chisel because all we're trying to do is just open up these two areas that are
folded over on the edges of the nut itself. Once you get them to split open a little bit, then
you can kind of rock it out to the side, and maybe turn it at a 45 degree angle to catch it like
this and then bend it the rest of the way back. Now if you look real close, you can see where it's
got a few marks on it. Somebody's definitely been in here. And on that note, now that I know
somebody's been this far into the engine, I told you to take notice how
everything is coming apart? It would also be a good idea to go back
to partzilla.com, bring this engine up. That way you've got access to the exploded parts
diagrams, because as I learned on our YXZ1000R, they made a couple of mistakes when they went into
the transmission. And I would not have caught them unless I've gone back and looked at
the diagrams very carefully. All right, so you have your your nut, then a washer,
and then this locking washer as well. There was one plate left behind. Now to get our basket out. You actually have to
remove the crank case cover. So let's go ahead and get that water pump out of the way, buzz off these
other eight millimeter bolts, get that cover off, then we can get the basket out of there.
I still see some radiator fluid in there, so we're going to go ahead and pre-actively
put a paper towel under there to catch it. Once again as you're doing this,
keep everything grouped together. It makes like a lot simpler when it
comes time to put it all back together. Let's go ahead and get off the water pump
impeller, just a 10 millimeter socket. Now we've got 11 more to take off. Do take
note: there's a little hose stay on the back. In that respect I probably could
have left that outer cover on, just pulled it off all together. The
only reason they give you this cover is just to go in and replace the actual
clutch plates and not the bird basket. You've got a couple of points where you can break
it apart. It's that little edge right there. I think it either has two or
three dowels, I know at least two. When you're doing this, resist the temptation to
put a screwdriver in there and just pry it out, so you don't want to damage
that surface end up with a leak. We have two dowels, and do take note of
that O-ring right there, very important. It goes around here. We can
get out our clutch basket and bearing. Starting to get
interesting now, huh guys? Now let's go and bring out
our starter intermediate gear and our spring-- return spring. Now to get
the spring off, the easy way, there is a split collar that will actually come off first, then
that gives you enough room to lift up the spring and bring it out.
Now... Looking good so far. We're going to pause on
this side for a moment, and go to the other side and take care of the stator, the rotor, our
output shaft sprocket, etc. Then we'll come back, get our shifting mechanism out of the way.
And these are just going to be eight millimeter heads, except for the bottom one which
of course is your drain, which is a ten. This engine did not have many hours on it after
somebody'd gone through it. But it's all that scoring that I saw on the uh, the cylinder that
that just wasn't right. It shouldn't look like that. That was so few hours, I'm betting. The
good part is this kit has an hour meter, with it so we will know going forward how many hours
we've got on this on this machine. But on a higher performance motocross bike? You pretty much do it
by race. I mean, four to six races you need to go in and change your oil and probably put in another
set of rings like we used to back in the old days. I can remember replacing rings in my YZ125 at the
track. It was a two-stroke. I could do it in like, 15 minutes if I was coasting. Okay, let's find our pry points. There's one here, there, and there.
Oh yeah, easy. Off she comes. That is such a tiny stator. Well let's face it: it's not like this
thing's running lights, or sound systems, or anything else. Pretty much just has to
deal with the ignition system and that's it. Why put anything in there bigger than you need
to have, because with the race bike it's all about saving weight. Let's go ahead and get this
cover off, and then sprocket off, and then we'll deal with the rotor, flywheel, whatever
whichever one you want to call it. I'm not sure what that was, it
was something organic though. All right, let's see if we can
hold this still and buzz it off. That was a 12 millimeter by the way. So we've got our puller, and
I'm using one from Honda. A satisfying sound. There it is. That kink does not want to come out. Makes me glad we're replacing the chain.
Next let's go ahead and get the tensioner guide out of the way. This is just a 10
millimeter. Along with that oil pickup pipe. That oil pipe is an eight. At that point, we'll
go ahead and flip it over and start taking out the shifting mechanism, then we'll be getting
really close to actually splitting the cases open. So now let's reach in here and get this circlip
off, then we can remove this drive gear for the oil pump. When you're removing the circlip,
only open it just enough to get it off of there. Otherwise you're going to stretch it out and then
it won't hold it in place like it's supposed to. Don't lose this little pin.
And now we can get down to that other eight
millimeter and get the old pickup tube out of it. All right, I believe that's
going through an O-ring. Yep. Good to go. That's going to do it for this side
until we come back and get all these bolts out. What we're going to attack first is this nut
which is that of course the drive gear off of your crankshaft. Then you've got this intermediate gear
where we have to have the special tool for it. But to get this bolt off, we're
actually going to temporarily reinstall our clutch basket. That way we can use
this little gear holder, put it in place, and that'll give it a more substantial area to
hold against so we can break that bolt loose. You don't need to attach the bolt on this.
Just lay it in place. Our gear holder is in place, and I think that'll do. And now this
is going to be a 14 millimeter. And there's a reason they want you to use this larger gear
is because this bolt has 80 foot pounds on it, and I'm not quite strong enough to hold it
still to break it loose, so I'm going to use impact to go ahead and break that thing loose. Now don't remove it yet, because we need it. I'll
hold this gear still to get off this particular nut that's holding on the counterbalance.
Now this one only has 33 foot pounds. Here's where our special tool is going to come into play. There we go. Now we can
go ahead and take both of these off. All right. Now take note: right here when we
go to put it back together, that dot on the end of the crankshaft goes into this channel,
and then that dot will line up with that one. So next let's get our shifting mechanism,
our detent pulled apart. Looks like we've got our shifting arm, which goes
all the way through the cases. Just lift it straight out,
and don't lose your washer. It's like two 10 millimeters that'll
come off the end of the shift drum. Weird little setup they've got here. Okay, now we can get down to that lower nut
and get that off the end of the shift drum. I'll tell you what: we can go ahead and pull
the detent first. Just a 10 millimeter bolt. It's a tricky little thing to get
back together, but we'll get it. There we go. Now we can get to it. We're just
going to rotate it all the way back. Boy that's a lot of tension. Ah, red loctite. Should have guessed. I
guess they don't want that jumping out. We're done on this side. Now we can flip it over, start removing some bolts, and
then get these two separated. Let's go and get our counterbalancer out-- or
the other half of it rather. Now we can start pulling some bolts. Now take note: there is a
copper washer behind this one, and that needs to go back in the same place when we go to
reassemble this. We'll start with that one. Second one with the copper washers up top at the
back of the cylinder. Don't miss this little guy. I'm taking these off in order, or taking these off as I go around and just lay them in order. Makes
it easier when we go to put it back together. Another copper washer down here. Pretty sure we
need to pull this drain bolt for the transmission. All right guys and girls, I
think that is it so it is time to separate these two, and we want to
separate it from the right side. Let's see if we can get it to tap apart. There we go. Sounds a little bit
different when it finally separates. I should have another place where
I can hit. Going after that guy. And everything is starting to
open it up except for right here. I'm perplexed. All right guys, at this point
it should fairly easily tap off and that'd be great if it was brand new, but it is not brand new
anymore. There is a dowel up front-- a large one-- that I think is corroded in place. What we're
gonna do is bring out a case splitter, like you would use on a two stroke, and we're gonna see if
we can attach it to this and get it to separate. Because I really don't want to pry into the case
because if I do that, I risk damaging that surface and then it's going to have an oil leak. So
let's get a case separating tool from Motion Pro, see if I can get it to attach to this, and
then see if we can get it to pull apart. Sometimes you have to improvise a little
bit. Let's pick three good pull points, because the back is starting to separate but
up at the front it does not want to let go. So this will be a little bit of a weird setup,
but this is the area that's holding back the most. I think we can do it like this. Neat little tool. Look at that look how hard it's holding up top.
There's so much tension on there. And I don't want to pull there.
Now we can go for that one though. Let's try that. We're going
to get this... eventually. Unreal. I've had some tough cases before-- no pun
intended-- but um, I think this is the new leader. It's just a lot of rust and corrosion. There's
nothing else holding it except that dowel. No you shouldn't have to do all
this if you're wondering. No. What I'm having to do here guys is
very unorthodox, but I'm trying to do it just gently as possible. You'll see
what I'm up against here in a few minutes. I'm trying to stay away from the
sealing areas and minimize how much damage I'm doing to the surfaces. But
I don't see any other way to do this. It's almost free.
Good grief. It's one for the record books, here guys,
and I hated having to do what I did there because I've opened myself up to a potential leak
even though this has a gasket. But when we go to put it back together, we're going to use some
gasket maker or sealer from Three Bond just to make sure it doesn't leak up there, because once
I separate this you'll see just how corroded that dowel was in that front area. And I really hope
you didn't have to go through what I just did, because I was afraid we were
about to buy a set of cases. But I think we've got it now. Now is there
any way to prevent this from happening? No, it's just uh, one of the things you have to be
prepared to fight against with an older machine. That's what we were fighting with.
That was completely corroded in there. Fun stuff guys, fun stuff. Now what I'm about
to do next is um, pull the transmission out. Let's start by getting our shift forks out.
There we go. Not a lot of clearance to get
around the uh, the shift forks. There we go. Now let's see if we can reach
in and grab all of it uh, all but one. All right guys, now that we've got that
pulled out, I just wanted to go back and look where I was having to pry against it so hard,
and it looks like I'm gonna be okay. I mean the surface, I didn't have to damage it too
much and it's toward the front of the engine, so I don't think we're gonna have
a problem. Like I said earlier, I just hope you didn't have to go through
that much trouble to get yours to separate. I'm just going to give this one a
gentle tap, see if she wants to pop out. Get our oil pump.
Well all right guys, there you go, taken apart all the way down to the
crankshaft. So what's going to happen next? Well I'm going to have to spend a fair
amount of time getting this thing cleaned back up, and at that point we'll start
another video, and we'll get these old bearings pressed out and the new ones pressed in, along
with the seals and start on that kit from Wiseco and getting the crankshaft back in.
Well listen, if you have any questions or comments, why don't you leave them in the section
below and I'll do my best to answer them. And hey, if you like what you see and you want to
see me continue, why don't you go ahead and hit that subscribe button. That way you can
keep up with whatever I'm working on next. We just want to say thank you for
shopping here with us at partzilla, and we will see you in the next
video. Y'all have a great day.
