JDM Nissan Silvia SR20DET BAD ENGINE TEARDOWN. What Killed The Most Popular 240sx Swap Engine?

today's teardown is a little bit different of an engine than i normally get as a matter of fact i don't know that i'll ever get another one but i'm happy i got this one this is a red top nissan sr20 det found in jdm 200 sx's and we didn't really get this engine here ever we got it in front wheel drive non-turbo configuration cars like the g20 the nx centra's but we didn't get the turbo version in a rear wheel drive platform so a lot of people swap these in the 240 sx it's like likely the number one swap because it's such an easy swap into those cars as a matter of fact one of those cars ended up in our local self-service yard and we got to it first we pulled the swap out of it well second someone pulled the turbo first but we pulled the swap out of it knowing that it might be a question mark turns out that it has less compression than a bad rotary well okay it has the same compression as the battery engine which is zero it has no compression so i don't know what's wrong with it all i know is for what i paid for it plus i got the trans and the ecu and the pedals and all the other good stuff i'm not going to get hurt all the parts on this are worth a bunch of money the cam sensor all the injectors all that stuff's worth money so i'm not really concerned with getting my money back out of it it would have been nice to sell a good swap but we're gonna tear it down and see what went wrong right off the bat this swap was not done the best the harness is pretty butchered up it has lots of broken connectors that's not from my guys pulling it that's just from whoever had this together we pulled it pretty cleanly but it still is pretty rough the car has some questionable things on it so i'm not surprised that the engine is bad you can tell by the amount of corrosion of the throttle body that it's likely that this engine and that car set quite some time before it went to the salvage yard it could have come from a tow lot could have been off the street i'm not sure either way we're gonna take it apart let's see what went wrong first i'm gonna have you guys listen to what this sounds like when it turns over because it's not good it's not good at all it's screaming so yeah there's that the first step is going to be to pull the plugs and see what they look like what cool so we got one that's unhappy ooh that one's full of water the plugs all look pretty good albeit it was clear that water was sitting in the plug well they were loose because my guys did a compression test but nothing's damaged nothing's re-gapped the engine didn't have a say in how much gap there is in the plug so let's keep going the next step is going to be to peel the valve cover off and see what the inside of the engine looks like uh so whoa that's dark i really wouldn't call this sludge but i would say that this has suffered from extended oil change intervals there's lots of varnish everything's super dark it's not supposed to look like this we're going to turn this engine over and see what it does with the cover off i am really concerned with the lack of tension between the cams on the uh like in the bridge here between the two cams and taking exhaust cam so let's turn this over it almost sounds worse i don't know how it's possible yeah that sounds pretty bad screaming at me let's see if we can put this thing in some some kind of time initially i thought it might be out of time i've got the cams lined up now i can already see that the keyway it appears to be in time and if it's out of time it might only be a tooth off so i don't think that's the issue which is pretty scary if i'm being honest i figured that was what was wrong next i'm going to start stripping some of the outside parts off this engine so i can pull the cams and get the head off i pull the cam sensor off first that wasn't the right bolt and now i'm going to continue trying to get this harness apart zip ties everywhere all right there's a very butchered harness now let's start pulling the intake manifold [Music] so you got a couple coolant hoses there's my socket we're just dropping everything today all right got this last hose here there we go i know it's really hard to see but there's just a little bit of rust pitting on the top of all of the intake valves next we'll pull the timing tensioner there we go next we'll take the cam gears out well that wasn't what i wanted to happen drop the washer all the way down cool oh well we'll get it out it's about normal wear on these now we can start getting the cams out of it now we're going to crack all the cam caps loose oh i guess we got to get that out of the way see what we've got here this is always fun on these nissans well the cam itself doesn't really look bad looks pretty good so the head the journals in the head for the cam look pretty good at first i was pretty concerned the way they looked uh just because of their color but i can't feel any deep grooves there's a little bit a little bit of wear on some of these but i was actually pretty surprised to see them in this good of shape there we go this cam also looks pretty good see any deep grooves or signs of oil starvation yet just a little bit not not really noteworthy while we're here we're gonna get the front two head to timing cover those will be required to pull the head get a few things prepped before we go to pull this head all the way off spring clamps it's a very love hate relationship there's some of the best clamps as clamps but they come off terrible there we go all right i'm going to get a bucket because i don't think this is actually drained all right that should just hang out there and now we can pull the head bolts before i start taking the head bolts loose i'm going to spray them out with some brake clean and kind of get any of the debris out of there they're hex bolts 10 millimeter hex bolts and if i strip one out i'm gonna be in a bad spot so whatever i can do to avoid that i'm gonna do something kind of strange about the srs they have external head bolts these little six by 1.0 10 millimeter headed bolts there's one here and there's one here and they're so fun to get to this one i already got cracked loose this one's actually the tough one but i'll probably end up just using a box and wrench on it and then my fingers to get it the rest of the way out here goes nothing there we go oh man those are tight but they're head bolts so they should be you know what we're gonna get a longer brake bar all right let's give this one a whirl here [Music] one thing i noticed as i was pulling this apart is it has two broken off exhaust manifold bolts and these are pretty hefty ones so that'll be some work to get those out but it's not a not the end of the world so let's go ahead and get these head bolts out before i go any further i'm going to put the some of these cam caps back in place that way i don't lose them it'll be easier to keep track of everything there we go just a little convincing it's all oh chain tensioners huh oh i think that chain is actually keeping it you guys are laughing at me right now [Music] there we go well that head gasket looks rough look what that coolant looks like that actually looks really good pretty happy about this although i'd like to find a cause for no compression that would be nice here's what the block looks like i already checked all the rods are fixed position rods no adjustable ones the cylinder walls don't look awful either they actually look pretty decent so i really don't know why this has no compression i mean i i'm not going off of my own readings and going off of what i was told but i'm inclined to believe them maybe it's a ring issue let's turn this short block over i know it's going to do some bad stuff with the chain let's turn the short block over and see if we can get sounds out of it like we heard when it was complete so i'm going to turn this over a little bit i'm going to kind of hold the chain up so it doesn't get all bound up on the crank and there's that noise again oh now we're just tightening oh that sounds bad oh i see a problem that's rust pretty pretty severe rust well relatively severe rust let me show you here's cylinder four this is the quote unquote bad one i don't really believe them that this had no compression in any cylinder but this cylinder i believe that is pretty ugly looking aside from the fact it makes terrible noises the piss the rings do we're gonna spray them with some wd-40 or some kind of lubricant and see if we can get that noise to stop i don't really expect much here just understand that this isn't fixing anything it's just shushing something ah it turns over so much better yeah that's decent that is decent those rings clean that cylinder up pretty good yeah not bad that cylinder still looks pretty ugly i feel a lot better that this looks this way i know that sounds crazy but if i had just torn down a good sr20 that i could have sold somebody complete for no reason i would have been pretty mad but i'm not i definitely would have felt good selling it this way to somebody and this way someone has all the parts to build one and these cylinders look really nice really nice perfect just this one so there must have been some water or coolant that got into this cylinder and uh sat it's really unfortunate all right so let's get this crank fully off now it's time we make a mess maybe oh we got some oil cool it's not drained at all all right let's get this lower pan off one thing about nissan bolts that i do not care for is the lack of flanges on the heads it means that you have to fight all the bolts to get out of your socket oh there we dropped the head oh hey there's that washer from the uh from the cam i was looking for that inside the pan is definitely dirty but i don't see any notable debris so i don't think anything blew up in here pickup is clean these are both good things i do want to talk about this plug so a lot of yards like self-service yards like lkq and pick and pull they puncture pans they have a machine that pops a hole in the pan sucks all the oil out and then inserts this plug on its way out which is probably the fastest and most economical way to do it however you ruin a lot of oil pans that way and i've also seen them do it on aluminum transmission cases which i i literally cannot understand for two seconds while you do that if it's got a pan it's bad enough don't puncture the case that's you can't make any money on that let's go ahead and get this baffle out of the way now i think we can pull this oil pan [Music] all right i think i've got all the bolts out except for nope yeah all the bolts are out even the one that locks the engine in the sand huh this looks pretty dirty but i don't see any real debris next thing on the agenda is to pull this little baffle out of the way so that we can get the pickup off and then pull the timing cover hold these bolts [Music] all right now with this out of the way all right now that we can pull this out of the way have access to that 10 millimeter right there pull those couple of 12s off and the pickup is off gasket looks okay start getting this timing cover off shall we well there's a couple that the water pump stuff's in the way which i'm not really taking that stuff off right now getting that off is gonna be fun actually it looks like i'm gonna have to yep i have to i tried to get i try to be lazy and this is what it gets me doing the work i should have done from the very beginning let that be a lesson i don't know why i didn't do this in the very beginning i was dumb okay it's time for you let go there we go and now i can get to the rest of the timing cover bolts it's also the oil pump one more there's the oil pump built in the timing cover that over here go ahead and pull this chain out of here let go oh i remember this it's been a while since i did one of these i have to pull the rails off nope that's gonna round out oh that's great great let's try the other side let's mess that one up too oh see that one came right out nope apparently those bolts are very tight it's about time for a new socket i guess one easy way to fix this i got this special wrench right here just oh i guess i didn't mean to do that huh huh weird that's weird that's weird look the chain came off that wrench was a miracle worker yeah i'll deal with those later now i don't have all that stuff hanging off here now we're going to turn the crank over so we can get start getting the rods and pistons out of this thing look at that it's beauty all right first we're gonna do one and four these aren't super tight and bearings look pretty good did not want to do that nope did not want to do that the bearings don't look too bad uh number two has a little bit of wear and don't mind those marks those are from my pry bar getting these out but bearings look pretty good and the pistons pistons all look pretty good even the one that decided to fall out of the block that was my bad there these are normal rods this is your rod on water this is clearly bent it's not as bent as i've seen in the past but it's also the wrist pin is very stiff compared to the cylinders that did not try to compress water you can't compress water no matter how hard you try water always wins now it's time to remove this main cap girdle and then the main caps let's get this crank out the crank looks fantastic it's perfect just not on a single mark on it all the main bearings look really good as well i didn't really suspect an oiling issue once we started pulling the cam caps so i'm not surprised here cylinders one two and three the walls look fantastic there's a few ridges in that one it's not terrible this that's not so pretty you can feel it with your fingernail it's definitely going to need to be gone over i don't think this is something that would have just cleared itself up with running it's pretty unfortunate that this happened i think what happened to this engine is very clear someone was driving drove through a big puddle or some other means of getting water in the intake and well no matter how hard you try you're still not going to compress water with your engine i don't know why people keep trying this it always ends up in a bent rod or some major catastrophic failure and thankfully in this case it wasn't super terrible it wasn't a catastrophic failure i've got plenty of good parts to sell but i have to admit that when i first started taking this engine apart it felt wrong it felt like i was taking apart a good engine and i do not like to do that that's not i don't like taking stuff apart for the sake of taking it apart if it's something that i can sell however once i pulled that cylinder head and i saw the rust on the top of cylinder 4 i felt a lot better and i didn't feel better because the engine was bad i felt better because i wasn't ruining a good engine sr-20s especially red tops the earlier engines are getting harder and harder to find and they're getting more and more expensive and i certainly don't want to take one out of circulation the good news is this engine has a ton of good parts to sell like everything but one rod and piston is a sellable component virtually nothing will end up in the scrap pin and it'll keep a lot of other sr20s going so i feel good about that and working on this engine kind of brought me back i haven't worked on an sr20 in quite some time and there is nothing like working on an 80s or an early 90s japanese engine they're pretty much idiot proof to take them apart there's no special tools required and there's a far cry from modern engines if you'd like to buy parts from this engine or any of the other engines i've torn down i'm going to leave my email in the video description and as always i love all the comments all the criticism and the feedback i love it all and i'll catch you on the next one

Channel: I Do Cars

Views: 193,120

Keywords: 240, SR20, SR20DET, SR swap, SR20DET Swap, SR20 Swap, S13, 240sx, S14, Redtop, big turbo, dyno, failure, blown up, bad engine, misfire, diagnose, engine noise, engine, motor, JDM, 180sx, Silvia, Drift, Driftmotion, upgrades, exhaust, vs, Nissan, 400whp, injectors, how to, remove, timing, timing chain, block, cylinder head, intake manifold, intercooler piping, intake, CAI, Exhaust clip, engine sound, noise, camber, stanced, coilovers, stretched, timing marks, oil leak, oil, cAS, camshaft, cams, tuning, Turbo, Manifold

Id: 2yA8l3WL7Ns

Length: 27min 26sec (1646 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 25 2021