14+ Dodge Ram 3.0 Ecodiesel Blown Engine Teardown. Strangest and Most Difficult Teardown Yet!

today's tear down is something a little different we're not doing an american v8 we're actually doing an italian turbo diesel v6 this is a three liter 630 i think motari is the italian maker that that designed this engine it's found in the 2014 up dodge ram it's a three liter eco diesel i think they also use this engine in grand cherokees it makes about 240 horsepower and 420 foot-pounds of torque but this one doesn't this one's completely locked up and i'm going to be honest with you i've kind of been dreading taking this thing apart because it it looks like a labyrinth it looks extremely difficult and complicated although well we'll get all the bolts out i promise you anyway this thing's locked up i don't know any history i do know that this engine looks like it tumbled down a mountain there's a ton of broken and cut stuff on it i have no idea what the history of this engine is i have no idea how many miles are on it all i know is we're going to take it apart we're going to find out what went wrong tear down is not going to be done on an engine stand i'll show you why in a second but i'm going to kind of show you the equipment this engine has it's it's really like it's really overwhelming to look at but i'm sure it'll come apart somewhat easy here you've got your egr cooler you've got your fuel injection pump and these are the lines to the injectors which are here and on the other bank as well someone has been in here chopping this harness i don't know if they were just trying to sharpen their wire cutters or what but it's like they wanted to cut every connector but they left the like why do you want the harness it makes no sense to me anyway this has a lot of the mission equipment on it and i think that's what makes this look so difficult uh but i think it'll come apart pretty easy this is the back side of the engine and here is the turbo which you could not pay me enough to replace that in the truck that must be terrible so here's the turbo here's the other side of injectors you got your oil filter housing with a cooler and this is the exhaust routing from this bank it's really it really makes sense when you look at it and look at everything it just it looks very overwhelming the first time you see it that's how i felt i looked at it and went hey there's got to be like a thousand bolts holding this together but i don't really think it's going to be too bad after walking around it a few times and this is why i don't really want to put this on a stand as you can see the oil pan protrudes about four inches behind the flywheel and that would definitely impede putting this on a stand as well as the turbo and the exhaust and some of the coolant pipes it's just easiest to do it on this table this table has held cars up for extended periods of time this engine is about 500 pounds so i don't think it's going to have any issues the first thing we're going to do is try to pull the fuel injection pump that's one of the more expensive parts on this engine and you'll get to see what it looks like once i pull this cover off and there's the injection pump it looks like it's got some pretty simple lines unplug that and now it looks like i just have some bolts and a couple fittings i'm not quite sure why i did this first because now i'm going to smell like diesel the entire time anyway there's the gear driven pump i can't really turn it over by hand so these are pretty stiff usually that's a good part to sell for sure so we're gonna pull the egr cooler off i have no idea how hard this is all i know is it seems like ford was in control of the fastener selection because it looks like it has one of everything so let's get started with what i know i can take out there's the egr pipe it goes into the intake manifold now we can get all the injectors out but first we're going to get the rest of this cooler undone and off of the engine all right let's see what we missed here the vacuum line through the actuator and a hose with a clamp that i have to it's got a band clamp on it why would you put a band clamp on a hose if it would ever need servicing oh sweet it's got coolant in it this is just turning out to be my favorite oh stop leaking stay i'm just gonna cut this house because i don't care okay egr cooler coming off that wasn't too bad i have no idea how bad that would be in the truck though now that my tools are covered and coolant just go ahead and take the passenger side bank injectors out i have no idea if these are going to come right out or if i'm gonna have to pry them out with my big pry bar or maybe i'll just attach a chain to the forklift and yank them out probably not that oh yes more diesel stank the place up pull them all the way off here there'll be less stuff in the way now we can get the injectors out oh this might not be so bad would you look at that ha i was dreading this and they came right out even though the retaining brackets are rusted to them the injectors came it came right out let's see if we get lucky twice oh yeah i i know from uh experience with crd liberties that sometimes uh when the rod bearings let go on those engines they'll smash the injector tips and i bet you these are the same way so we'll see if we have any smash tips that one wasn't stuck and all our tips are complete there's a circumcision joke there same deal on this side let's get the lines off and then we'll pull the injectors out [Applause] uh as you can see all the tips on all six injectors look pretty good they are kind of rusty but it's no different than the crd liberties that i'm used to working on the next thing we're going to try to take off is the turbo and i say try because this already looks super complicated there's a lot of stuff going going to this turbo and it's all really rusty so i don't have a lot of faith in it coming out nice yeah yeah that's just a heat shield bolt so let's try another one hey we got one and then this is bent ah this is gonna be good it's gonna be good right okay passenger side is loose it looks like we're gonna have to pull the exhaust manifolds all the way off because they put studs on here but let's go ahead and get those bolts out and then i'll get the exhaust manifolds off let's get the passenger side manifold off first let's go ahead and get the dipstick out oh okay does it come out yes i'm sure that's how they want you to do it in the manual okay let's get that exhaust manifold off i really doubt my impact's gonna do this but you know i'm gonna try oh okay it might be broken what okay we're just gonna let that kind of hang out there while we go to the other side because it has come off the studs for the turbo turbine housing now we can get the oil filter housing off it's probably gonna leak much oil or it's gonna have some hidden bolts that i can't nope coolant actually and some oil not too bad [Music] still very stiff so she said it's getting there all right i have figured out how to get this off we're just going to pull really hard that's what we're going to do well it worked here's the oil feed there's the oil return which i didn't need to unbolt from the turbo just literally came right out of the block just sitting in this rubber plug i guess so much holds the turbo on uh what fought me was this right here this is one of the coolant hoses for the turbo uh here's one side here's the other and it's clear that they want you to pull the intake manifold to pull the turbo i'm gonna go show you the turbo now it's pretty interesting here's the turbo from this engine it's actually not as small as you would think for being a 3 liter i'm very careful of course but the cool thing about this is it is a variable vane turbo it's electronically controlled there's a controller right here and this the computer tells the this actuator how far to move this arm i'm not really going to take this all apart because likely i'll break every bolt if i try looks like someone already broke two of the three downpipe bolts off of it but the turbo does spin uh it feels pretty good it will be something i can sell so i'm pretty excited about that i'll just have to fish those two bolts out now it's time to take the intake manifold off which is probably what we should have done before we tried to take the turbo off but hey we got the turbo off now let's get the intake manifold off this is a fuel manifold let's deal with that clip in a second start getting some bolts out [Music] oh okay okay and there are more bolts i knew there were more probably just the one oh we're gonna play a game called now what it's out now with the intake off you can see the glow plugs and the intake ports which carbon is the name of the game here geez louise this sport especially you could chop that up and serve that okay let's start pulling the valve covers off and see if we can actually see why this engine doesn't turn over before we start pulling valve covers i'm going to get these fuel rails out of the way it'll just make things a little bit easier they weren't even tight i was anticipating a fight here that was just really easy [Music] those rails are not aluminum they're a lot heavier than they look we're going to start with the passenger side valve cover see what it takes to get this off what will we find oof that is dirty the chain's still on it it's likely not a timing issue the cam lobes look all right followers are all still in place now for the driver's side much of the same nothing stands out everything looks alright just dirty now we're going to work our way towards getting the driver side timing cover off so we're gonna pull this belt tensioner out of the way still do it there we go yuck is everything so dirty okay same method as last time wow that's super sludgy looking but i think that's probably what most look like so this bolt is reverse thread i guess and it just comes right off well let's get the timing cover off let's go ahead and get this timing cover off there we go no signs of anything coming apart everything looks really good actually just just dirty except for this that's not a good sign that's metal what is that from i bet we're gonna find out we're gonna go ahead and peel the timing chain off we're gonna take the tensioners and the guides off well i was not expecting that the other one will likely do the same wow that's under a lot of force oh that wasn't too bad we have finally made it to where we're ready to pull the cams and get access to the head bolts the cam cap bolts are triple square because clearly that is the best and the most reliable and robust and practical okay i hate triple square i don't understand why there's triple square but the triple square it's a european thing i i don't really understand it but somebody thought was a great idea i wish you could smell what this smells like getting these out without breaking them is going to be a little bit of challenge i'm sure there's a right way to do it and then i'm sure there's a way i did it and those are not the same way there's a very in here there's one this one should be pretty easy nothing broke the cam journals have a little bit of wear no major grooving that was just dirty there but no signs of major oiling issues there's a couple grooves in that one actually but yeah they're not not too bad now we're going to crack the head bolts loose and then zip them out with an impact these are some massive head bolts i got some weight here goes nothing oh that's not very heavy cylinder walls look pretty good there's a little bit of rust at the top nothing too bad i don't think that rust is enough to keep this from turning over smoothly so there's something else causing it and i think that piece of metal we found in the timing cover will be part of whatever that issue is same thing on the passenger head let's go ahead and get these cam caps cracked loose it's kind of a tongue twister this is a little bit more wear on this cam journal here and this cam journal here but everything else looks like the other side did looks decent nothing's come apart the cams look pretty good too there's no scoring no no damaged lobes everything looks kind of like you would expect out of a used engine let's go ahead and crack these head bolts loose and zip them out as well make sure it's not gonna leak unlike the other side there is some damage here there's some very deep gouges in the cylinder wall especially on that rear cylinder there's some in almost every cylinder on this i don't know about the middle cylinder that that piston is too tall on the bore too high on the bore but this is really really gouged up this is the driver's side head i don't see any noticeable signs of damage nothing's bent just some crap from it sitting this is the passenger side head the side that has the damaged bores and two two of the intake valves are white and i'm not quite sure why i wonder if it uh sucked in some coolant maybe from the egr cooler or maybe i don't know i don't know enough about these i'll be honest with you i've gone ahead and flipped this engine upside down very carefully and now it is drained it wasn't drained before but now it is one thing to note um the amount of sealant between the upper pan and the lower pan right here is a lot more than between the bottom of the block and the upper pan that tells me that this has been off and likely the guy that put probably three tubes of gray rtv is probably the same guy that used to own my porsche and modified the throttle body boot the way he did anyway let's go ahead and get this lower pan off and then we'll get the upper pan off i can smell the rtv we're just gonna give it a little tappy tap well i think it's starting to become loose and there are so much rtv save some for the rest of us man man i just don't like that whoops good lord so much rtv i've never seen so much rtv in my life all right i'm not going to enjoy this oh my god yuck look how much rtv there is you can make a necklace out of this that does not look good and there's another strange piece of metal this is sparkly it's like the milky way in here oh there's some chunks of metal down there in the corner yeah we're getting close we are getting close let's keep going let's just start banging on stuff hopefully not breaking things that's what we don't want to do we don't want to crack anything let's go to the front oh we're moving now what the see this has not the same color rtv this is really dirty geez yeah there's some metal fragments in there if you can see that lots of bearing material lots man i wish i could just like spray some clear over this and hang it on the wall time to keep going we're gonna pull the pickup and oil pump assembly off as one bunch of eights looks like well maybe we won't do it all at once i'll just pull the tube off first or something maybe we will pull the whole thing off we're just gonna take all the bolts out let me see there's the oil pump that was a bolt that was not part of anything it's gear driven right off of the crank pull the windage tray and here we go well wow let's see if we can put the crank bolts in it and rotate it i'm having doubts but it's worth a shot i pulled the sprocket that drives the oil pump off and i noticed some material sticking out of where the front main bearing is and it's actually the main bearing this thing chewed up a main bearing yikes oh man yeah this is not gonna work okay ah so we're gonna go ahead and get the bolts the main bolts and it's a modular iron block which i haven't seen before i'm sure something else exists with it but uh this is a first for me the modular block means that the top and the bottom uh are the the block is in two pieces and um yeah i mean i'm used to this a lot of mazda engines are this way but i haven't seen an iron that was this way i know how you guys love the sound of this so okay i have no idea if this is gonna work there's not really anywhere to pry aha [Applause] that's kind of heavy wow well that engine's done this is impressive every single main bearing is spun the thrust bearing and all of the other main bearings this engine is trashed i mean yes you could probably line hone it and put a different crank in it and but man at this point with the board damage this is scrap and look at that that's that's impressive trying to see if this has been a part before but i don't think this has been a part before i don't even think that there's not even a bearing there and that colors look at this look at that that's just i wonder what happened here i wonder if somebody just ran it out of oil but man you'd think the main bearing would be the last thing that would spin it's a one it now i understand i understand exactly why these crankshafts are 1200 used i don't really think it's fair to judge an engine by taking just one blown-up example apart however that failure was rather peculiar i can't really put my finger on why that happened and that coupled with the fact that the used crankshaft is worth at least twelve hundred dollars that tells me that something in the oiling system or there's some manufacture defect who knows i'm not sure i'm not trying to say this is a terrible engine anyway i had a lot of fun taking apart not not really that that wasn't so great but i hope you guys enjoyed watching as far as the next one i'm going to do i have no idea whether it's going to be an ls it could be a coyote it could be mzr i have all those engines here i've gotten more stuff in since the last time i shot a video so you'll just have to catch me on the next one

Channel: I Do Cars

Views: 486,832

Keywords: Ecodiesel, Dodge ram, Ram 1500, Ram Ecodiesel, Grand Cherokee, Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel, 3.0 Ecodiesel, Eco diesel, Diesel, Turbo Diesel, Engine, Engine problems, Crankshaft, bearing, oil, exhaust, main bearing, spun bearing, bad engine, engine noise, diagnosing, Teardown, Dismantle, remove, how to remove, EGR cooler, turbo, injectors, cylinder heads, crank, cams, block, Fuel injection pump, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2011, 2012, 2013, Motari, 630 A, 630 L, DOHC V6, MPG, power, offroad, V6, Specs

Id: qvA3XKE9eWE

Length: 29min 2sec (1742 seconds)

Published: Sat May 15 2021