Guitar Making: IQ CNC Router | Laguna Tools

[Music] [Applause] [Music] hey I'm Bob with a gooda tools I've got a pretty interesting demonstration to show you today I think we're going to make a Les Paul style guitar body on an IQ with the handheld controller let's look at some of the features on the IQ h HC h HC means hand hill control and that's the control that we use for it these IQs have three horsepower liquid cool spindles now you say what do we do liquid cool sometimes we do very very long 3d programs four or five hours and that liquid cooling keeps the bearings cool so you can virtually run these forever now this is a dust collector shroud right and that we've just added a new feature to that and that is a door that opens up so you don't have to unhook that to take that off and put tools on but I'll tell you a feature I really like about this spinless three horsepower is fine but it holds half-inch tools so it uses a standard ER 32 collet and that has a capacity for 1/2 inch tool so now we can use big tools the Les Paul style guitar is a fairly sophisticated setup so what I did on the machine is I took off some of the MDF tables that we put on there and I created I think what I call a fixture board and this is actually taped to the surface of a double stick tape this is used to help me position parts and you'll notice in some of the setups are you steel pins and you'll see why in a minute well you know a couple years ago we did a guitar video and it's been really popular absolutely tens of thousands of people who did it and I've always wanted to do another one and at the time we did one on a Stratocaster style guitar but I wanted to do a different style this time since that time we introduced i cue machines and they have a work envelope that makes a lot of sense for the size of a guitar so I'm really excited to be able to do that okay let me explain to you where this all started what you see on this screen is a it's a 3d model of this guitar it's a Les Paul Styles what we call it and that was probably designed in SolidWorks because if you notice it's standing up and why is up in SolidWorks which is a little bit different but it doesn't really matter this one is a is a NURBS model and the extension on it is iges you probably want to stay away from meshes like stls because you can't really manipulate them but you can't or Pat them but you can't do very much manipulation so that's where they started now once once I got that original model I started removing things I didn't want to produce for instance I don't want to make a neck on this video I want to make the guitar body so what you see on the screen here is really the body and there's several parts to it so for instance if you notice this I've got it in ghost view so you can see the internal stuff but there's actually a top let's get that there's actually a top that's removable so first thing we're going to do is we're going to make this part and if you look at it carefully it's got machining on the bottom side it's also got machining up here that's pocketed and so we pretty much have to do that then when you view the top you see the top is a panel that's glued on there after that base piece is made and then the final machining here is done so this is quite a project to undertake now let's take a look at how we approach making something like this the software I'm using is Rhino 5 I'm actually gonna do the tool path you can aspire but Rhino 5 gives me a great way to manipulate stuff so when I bring this out the first thing I have to get a handle on what size things are so let's turn this off it's on the lair so basically this is the the body or what I call the base and that's what we want to start so what I'm gonna do first is create a bounding box around it and now of a sudden that is that is a rectangular volume that that fits into now the nice part about that whole bounding box is that bounding boxes are constant so now even though that's an irregular shape product like with that bounding box I can actually manipulate it and move it and be consistent on it then we're going to get rid of that bounding box and talk about what's what's involved in machining this piece that you see here's this is not 3d at all this is basically a 2d part I can make this and be car pro it's what's called two and a half D and what it really means is it's a shape kind of certain depth and that's really all this is so this is a chunk of wood on the backside it's got some pockets cut and some passages and then it's got a round over and I could do that round over a couple ways I chose to just buy a small round over bit take the bearing off and in machine that but there's there's more than one way to do that so we know then we're probably going to start out and we're going to machine this backside we're not going to machine all the way through we're gonna machine about halfway through so that's gonna be our first set up then we're going to take this part turn it upside down locate it precisely on the table and we're going to do this other machining so that basically finishes that part we won't be able to do this you can you can make a set up to that but typically we won't worry about that these two pockets here we will catch those later from the top what we primarily have to machine from this side of these passages that little groove down through there in that passage because that groove has to be in there for wiring once the caps on it so we pretty much have to take care of that now once that's done then we're gonna come over and put the top on it reposition it and in the top is a 3d surface and we're gonna actually machine the 3d surface and then we're gonna come back and do these pockets and it'll be finished okay now let's do let's look at this a little bit now the first thing I'm going to do is let's look at this from the top view and you see now this green axis in red axis that's Y and X so the center of this thing is pretty much at x0 y0 and remember that because when we go out to the machine that's how we're gonna locate it so what I ended up doing here is I started out with a bounding box and then I made a piece larger and that becomes my blank so I started with the bounding box to figure out exactly what the minimum size was and then made a blank and so that's what you're seeing here this is actually the piece of material that we use so that's what I saw started with a chunk of wood that size just a little bit thicker and you'll see why in a minute now something else I have to have is I have to have the geometry for actual tool path and so let's turn some stuff on here where you can or turn it off where you can see it okay this is what I really need now here's what this is this line right here and we'll look at from the top view this line represents a perimeter of the blank so somewhere on the machine I have to figure out how I'm gonna where I'm gonna locate the length to start with okay these two holes here are pins so because we remember when you cut one side and you flip it to cut the other side you have to have some way to get that line up or you got a mess okay so that's what those are and then this is the outside of the shape of the guitar body and these are those pockets that you saw on the underside so this is really all I need for this first set up for a spar now let's look at how this is done in this bar okay now what you see on the screen here is a set up in a spire and the first part of this whole project then is to be is to be able to create a set up system so that we can hold apart Center and here's what I basically did I this is this piece right here is 22 and a half by 24 and I just arbitrarily selected that it could be bigger and larger didn't matter remember the work envelope on the machine is about 24 by 36 us they went in there now this is a geometry that you saw earlier that I copied over so this represents the perimeter they're blank and these were those holes for the pins go so what I wanted to do first was I wanted to really make a shallow pocket across here with a fairly large tool so that this would line up perfectly with the the cutter just like we flocked cut a spoiler board mdf doesn't work very well with double-stick tape on these heavy parts sometimes so I wanted a better material my goal was not to cut through the mirror to basically just just flatten this out and at the same time I wanted to drill the two holes for machining the two holes for the pins and you'll see how those are gonna be used and then this is really a landing pad over here I wanted an area that I could use the automatic tool touch off the puck that was at the exactly the same level as this plane out here so they'll all just I'll just machine me a circle pocket the same same depth all right so and if you look at the tool pass here's really what happened let's go to simulation and basically this is that cheat so this piece is like I said it's twenty two and a half by twenty four and it's a half-inch thick it's Baltic birch plywood so it's real stable so the first thing that's gonna happen is it goes in and an inch and a half flock cut to cut that pocket out and if you notice I put dog bones in the corner so I didn't have to worry about it okay then I came back in and I drill pins and that's those through the holes there you got to be careful we need real pins cuz you're flipping apart so you got to make sure that get smeared over and then the last thing I did and I will go back and reset it the lasat this the last thing I did let's cut that because I need to know where the blank goes because when I start out I don't use the pin so I have to know where to take the blank so that's that's what I call the setup file so we'll look at all those again so that's where we start okay so now that creates a place for us to start with the blank we do the machining on the backside we machine the holes for the pins then when we flip it over the part lines up on pins that's how we get started now let's go over to the machine and we'll look at this setup board okay this is a setup board I showed you on the screen it's twenty two and a half wide by about twenty four long I just lined it up flush with the front it didn't really matter then you'll notice it's probably hard to see on the camera but this this was pocketed out and you can see those little dog bones in the corner and then then there's the perimeter cut so it shows me where to Center the panel and there's the holes for the pins so the first thing you make on this whole guitar project is not a guitar at all it's a setup bullet so that you can control all the other parts okay let's take this to the next level now let's focus on what we do machining wise on what I call the base the base being the bottom piece and I did two setups I called base 1 and base to base one being the bottom side base 2 being the top side of that base part and all you really have to have this geometry if we look over here to set up once again the material thickness is 1.75 we're touching off at the table itself at our fixture and so then basically all I have to do is do some tool passing them here's one I decided to do first this is called facing what I wanted to do first since the material was a little bit thicker I wanted to absolutely fly cut that so that's exactly the right thickness now the reason I do that is everything lines up so then when I put it round over a bit to not to soften an edge it lines up so I did that first then there's a couple pockets and those are I believe 0.1 170 they're not very deep those are pockets okay here's pins there's the pulse for the pins okay now this is the outline and if you notice this represents the outline of the the guitar and this represents offset from that so what I wanted to do was just to create a pocket around there about halfway through so I believe I said that at an inch D then the last thing I do is I take a round over bit it's an eighth inch roundover bit let's turn it on and we go around that and that creates set softened corner so it's a if this actually has four different tools now when you do the simulation the facing won't show up because it's zero depth I'm just taking off a material that was above 1.75 so it's called a simulation see what happens okay so we'll turn all this stuff off the first thing we're gonna face it like I say you're not gonna see it because the material is already to thickness we're just cutting what's at the top there's the first pocket all right here the pins so there's the two holes for the pins this is where we cut the outline now when I cut the outline I did something different I left 40 thousands of material and here's why when I flip it over if I don't get it perfect and I want it to be a little fat and then I'll do the final perimeter pass from the top if I don't get it perfect that gives me some fudge room typically it doesn't require it but I'm just planning to add and then this is a round over it's hard to see on here but it actually it's an eighth of an inch round over that it goes around that perimeter because that's what we're really on the model now you may do different things there there are other techniques that they use in guitar making where they put different strips of stuff in our case we're just going to put we're solving it you could actually soften it with sandpaper if you wanted to now I want to show you a neat feature we've just added this to these controllers it's a firmware and software upgrade but basically now we've always been able to plug a USB key and operate the machine and there's an internal memory built in the controller it's about 500 Meg's so it's almost a half a gig but now I can plug this into my laptop and it shows up as a drive and then I just drag files over and so it really works out well it's a great way if you've got lots of fossil so you're making a set of kitchen cabinets of 15 or 20 sheets it's a really neat way to do this to start with I've got this nice piece of mahogany that I made and then and I put some double stick tape on it if you watch some other videos you know I like double stick tape isn't simply going to try to get it lined up and that looks pretty good okay that's good now so you see what I did I use that perimeter cut side with nowhere to line this up and my blank is bigger than the bounding box saw I knew it wouldn't work let me tell you a little tip of how it created this block I glued it together and then I attached it to the table with tape and another use until the flock I saw it became a planer so if you notice I machined the top and bottom and all four sides of that so just think about being able to do that with your machine okay we've got our materials secured to the machine we're ready to go there now let's talk about putting tools in and tool touch off now like I say we basically created this design based on our smart shop one dust hood with the little door it's worked really well and that works really nice and it's successful but I think for shooting a video we're better off to take that off so that you can actually see what's going on I think the first operation we'll do is to face the top of this so that it perfectly lines up with our setup so what I've done is I've got a half inch collet and a collet nut I'm going to put that in the spindle and tighten the tool this is a puck system we use for tool touch off it's it's really neat I like it because the news versions now completely comes off the machine so you have a plug that plugs in here and then you position it under the tool and if I were touching off to the top of the material I've set it here in our case where this is actually you can't really see it but this is an area that was pocketed when I pocketed that area so that's the same height as the bottom and then all we do is hit two buttons the machine comes down you can always see their dimensions changing and then it'll come down and make contact and the tools touch up that's all you have to do and then once it makes contact it'll retract [Music] the tools touched off as we go through these processes I want to stop and explain a couple fundamentals because I applied a lot of different applications here but if you remember on the drawing I showed you where x0 y0 was and it's basically being in the middle well let's send the machine to the origin and verify that's where it is okay so uh the origin is wherever x0 y0 is set and that's basically drew diagonals on the panel and set it that way so that just verified everything's right now we're ready to run the program once again if I had dust collection I turned a dust collector on I'm gonna actually stand over here with a blower so you can really see what the cut is this is electrical panel all the components are in here it's air-cooled what you see here is a display for the spindle and basically it tells you what RPMs the spin was running it so I can adjust it in increments of 60 60 rpm as if I want to this just turns it on and off this is an emergency stop this is a disconnect so this basically did disconnects the machine from power okay everything said we're ready to run something so I'm going to select the program from the internal and the name of the program is facing and it looks pretty good to me [Music] and it's been a turning [Music] [Music] okay all right yes just right I'm changing tools to run the next program [Music] [Music] we're going to touch it off [Music] [Music] then drill a pinholes [Music] [Music] [Music] well the things to of him so we'll take that to layer [Music] Terry we're gonna put the half inch straight tool in and we're going to cut these pockets out and you're also going to cut the perimeter to time to touch off [Music] okay now we get to what we've got the half-inch tool and let's run the other program it uses it let's run the outline here goes [Music] [Music] [Music] okay here's something that's kind of neat you might recognize this as a standard router bit that you use with a hand wherever I took the bearing off what I really want is this this is an 8 inch race that's the cutting edge on one that's actually gonna go around there so sometimes you got to think outside of the box then we'll put that tool man [Music] [Music] another round over looks real consistent all the way around here and that's the quickly flock that's one of the reasons we did that there's a little ledge here but remember this outside still 40 thousands fat so looks good to me okay we've got the bottom side of that base piece machine so that came out pretty good now let's go back and look at the 3d model and see what we have to do when we flip it over right so this is the top side of it you can see on the screen here now what we did earlier was we basically cut this out cut the shape out put the round over on it and cut this pocket here and we did that because those have to be excess from underneath now we're going to turn it upside down we're gonna line it on pins to keep the front and back aligned now here's what we need to cut we need to cut this whoops wrong button we need to cut this pocket and it goes actually doesn't go through but it intersects the other pocket we need to cut this slot and then we need to cut this hole here the rest of these recesses get cut once the caps on there so basically that's what we've done I created you know once again went in there found the geometry and create a drawing and then that drawing was that's that's where the geometry came from for tool pathing all right in other words here's our centerline we made sure that was right I brought that geometry into a spire and there it is and let's turn that off so basically what's going to happen is you're going to have this tool path and you see there that's just going to pocket that out and then with same thing on these pockets now we're going to use a different tool this time and I'll show it to you when we get up to the machine but it's a real long to us maybe our vortex it's for for deep machining it's 3/8 in diameter the cutting edge is about an inch long and then it gets smaller above it so you don't get the heat from rubbing the side of the bit so that's what we're gonna do with these okay now we've we've taken this off we've taped the underside and put the pins in and we're gonna see if I can feel those holes there's one of them there we go on that tape to stick it down and now now we're lined up and should be good now I want to show you something while we're closed in here this is a bit I discovered vortex a couple actually I found this bit back when we did that first guitar you know but it's it's an I call it a deep pocket bit if you know it's a 3/8 shank it's long if you notice right here there's a better 1 inch cutting edge here and then it gets smaller behind that so you don't get you don't get to burning down here now we're going to take various scalloped asses because that's a real long bit now it'll it'll make a lot of noise and we don't so that's what we're going to put in the machine [Music] [Music] [Music] all right well the machining for this base part is pretty much done of course we did the underside first and these pockets came out real nice I think this is a slot in here for wires to run now the next step then is to take this maple cap we'll glue it on reintroduce it to the Machine and that will cut the 3d surface and then finally we'll trim the outside of it there's a couple pockets also left to be machined that actually go through this down into the base part but now we're getting there okay well we've got our piece of maple glued on now and now it's time to get serious and talk about 3d okay let's review so far what we've done in terms of programming if you recall we started with this model that was downloaded it's a Les Paul style of guitar and pretty much what you see on the screen here's what we've machined at least everything that has to be machined at this stage we machine the back we put that little rounder over the edge you see the pockets now the only thing we had to machine on this side at this time was this this slot here because the rest of that's going to get done and but pretty much this is what's called two and a half d machining which means the shape and a certain depth everything we've done here so far I could have done with vCard pro or simple software it's nothing 3d yet but it's coming now so the next step is to create the top and so we'll just turn that on I've got that turned on where you can see it and when you look at the guitar you'll see there's the surface and this curved top is a surface now you might not be familiar with the term surface it's an easy way to understand it is to think of something I have to cut out with a round tool so for instance if it's an irregular shaped surface I'm going to use a tool that's that's round at the end in our case it's called a ball nose now the amount of detail determines what size ball you use obviously the larger ball takes less time to machine but sometimes if you do decorative stuff it takes a very small detail tool in our case this is a gentle surface so we're probably going to use a half inch tool so that's how that's going to be created there's also another 3d surface and I didn't notice it at the beginning but there is and if you look down inside of here where this net where the neck sits in that pocket that's actually an inclined surface so technically that's the 3d surface also I can't cut that by saying cut this shape a certain depth it only cuts it flat at the bottom and so we'll have to deal with that okay now let's take a look at this and let's see what we're actually going to have to do with this surface now first off let's let's get rid of the body let's turn that off so this is this is the top part this is what we're really going to machine so there's the surface part and then you notice there's also some other cutouts here and those are actually driven from shapes down below those are actually recesses that are created for the contacts and the pickups on the guitar so we'll cut those that all in one pass and then you notice there's some holes here they have to be machined there's four here and they correspond to that underneath there and there's a hole here and I assume that's for a shaft okay so now here's here's our problem though there's there's an oh by the way in this let's turn this back off and that is if I try to cut that surface the tool drops down in those holes so I could figure a way around that let's look at the solution of this okay now what we've got here this is you know this is just the top separated out now you see these holes here I've actually on the layer I've got patches and you see these basically fill those up in fact if we render this it's probably going to be easier to see see how that because all I need for a spire is a smooth surface remember those cutouts are two and a half named moschini so all I really need is a file first bar that's got that smooth surface and you'll see one other thing that I added in and that is this plane down here now you might wonder why did you do that well here's why I did it because I need a way to line this thing up because remember everything has to be lined the center line is in the middle and we started out with what size the blank was and how the body fit in it so I need some way of making sure that alignment carries through this bar so when I bring this 3d surface in its a line and so that's why you see that plane so all I did was took the surface I took this surface and then I actually took made a surface out of this and I exported those just as a 3d surface as a Rhino file of which Aspire can open it let's pretend we were doing a new job set up here I want you to understand how you bring the 3d stuff into a spa sometimes it's confusing first off I said okay my table or whatever this is or block or whatever you want to call us 24 by 36 the material thickness that's the thickness of that glue that block that's that's really what I'm looking at he's two point five six to five which is to 9/16 all right the origin is in the center so what the x0y0 is in the center we're touching off at the bottom and that allows the students our till touchdown so we'll say okay now what I need to do is I need to bring that 3d surface into spar so I can toolpath it and here's how you do it you go to the modeling tab come up here at the top to the word sense modeling tools import a component or 3d model okay a spire surface click on that that's what I created that's what it looks like so it brings it in just like that I'm going to accept it I'm not gonna change anything about it okay now that's how that fits into the material all right now you see what so what you really see here is you see that 3d surface and you see that flat plane underneath so that gives me the ability to locate and unfortunately it's centered so I don't really have to worry about that okay but now there's another step here that's involved when you mess with 3d and that's this where we're within our volume of material does that rest so we come over here to setup and you'll see this is showing us where the model is if you watch it'll move it up and down what you'll see it move it up and down within the volume of material okay well where do we want that well I don't want it flush with the back I actually want it since my finished my actual finished guitars about two point four six I really want this this thickness here I really actually want this it from a tough point zero point zero nine four or five that's the number I need okay when I put it in there when I'm finished with a guitar it is the correct thickness so that's why you go through there and that's that's sometimes the confusing part of doing 3d step because we're doing two things for this part we're gonna toolpath that model but everything else we're doing from geometry so in addition to that model also need the DXF that line up with that so that's where we're gonna go next okay now that you understand where the 3d surface came from let's talk about a strategy of how we would actually machine this now there is one step you could add to it that we're not going to do that you that you could and that is you could actually fly cut the top of that glued on piece if you did that that gives you the ability to flip that over it just in case you forgot the machine something on the back if if we're not going to need to be able to do that hopefully but if you ever wanted to if you fly cut that you could actually fly cut that and drill your pinholes and locate it so just keep that in mind well I think I want to do first though is I want to kind of define the perimeter of the edges of that surface and the reason I'm doing it is so when the ball tool gets over to the edge it doesn't slam up against the material and that'll make more sense to you so I'm gonna call this surf edge there's the toolpath and let's look at the simulation and you'll see be able to see what it does well we said that so that's what's going to happen the tool is going to go around what I've really done is taking the outside shape and offset it so it's really it's about 5/8 wide and I'm taking a smaller tool that's a long tool and just cutting that out and what that's going to do is that's going to give me a nice perimeter around it later I'll use that same tool or that area to cut all the way through to separate the pieces but this point I'm really just trying to define the edge of where that surface is going to end up okay now let's talk about how you toolpath a 3d surface we already talked about the fact that you have to use around those two typically we do two passes one is a rough pass and and we typically take quite a bit of material off we do it in steps and we do it in steps this way so that we typically might make a path and offset that path 50% of the tool diameter so if using a 1/2 inch tool it steps over that's what it's called a step over a quarter inch and our whole intent here is to just get rid of material and we'll leave a margin on top of the surface maybe 40,000 so that's the rough pass once that's done then we do a finish pass we're going to use the same tool the only difference is it's going to come in in a step over it's going to be about 10% so it's got its it's going to leave a much much smoother surface so remember rough pass then finish pass okay now let's look at the simulation on the software here so you can kind of get an idea of what's going to happen first thing I'm going to click is rough the rough pass and we hit preview and once you see there is what's going to happen on the machine it's doing it in steps and if you notice there's pretty good waves there that's that 50% step over but the point of that is to get a lot of the material away and I told it to leave 40,000 sub of the surface once that's done then we come back over and we do this finish pass and that's what makes it smooth and now that's a 10% step over and you see it's a much much smoother surface and once that's done that's pretty much that part of the 3d surfacing [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] that looks pretty good now we're now we're beginning the suit is shape of the guitar and that gives us some recess so that when we do our 3d surface here you know how to have a nice edge on your side it looks good let's go to the next step okay we've changed to us now we have the half inch ball nose till we talked about now that should do that Ruffy [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] I pause the program and turn the spindle off because I wanted to point something out to you see these terraces that was the rough pass okay you see these waves here that's the 50% step over in the debt per pass is about an eighth of an inch so that's what you're seeing here so it calculated all the material that it had to get rid of and I told it to leave 40,000 sub-materials across the surface above the surface so now I'm going to turn this spindle back on start the machine back up and now it's going to go around and it's going to create that smooth that final surface that we're really looking for [Music] [Music] all right this is my favorite time let's see what happy there is something really unique about 3d it's it's almost like this part was hiding in that block of wood all the time I just didn't know it until I cut it at Sony now you see the curvature you see how this corresponds to what we looked at on the computer this is that surface now what we'll do next is we'll come in and we'll do the machining in that surface okay let's take a minute and review the software let's see what we just finished okay first thing we did was we actually cut the perimeter so it defined the perimeter engaged some clearance for the edge of the ball tool okay then we put the ball tool in and we did a roughing pass and we looked at those terraces after that completed and what you just saw was the 3d finish and that's what really produces the final shape the final surface like I said it's just it's just magic when that appears okay now where do we go from here there's actually a little bit more 3d machining but that's not what we're going to do next now we're going to machine some of the electrical stuff so there's one two three four I call those deep pockets then there's some shower cutouts that also go there now what's amazing when we get all this done this will all be interconnected with with the machining we did on the base parts it's incredible when you see this so and then also we have some holes here and we're going to machine those also and these correspond with cavities that were machined on the underside so all of these are done with the same tool so even though it's multiple operations that will create one program with that tool so let's get started here and we'll get that plug them over to the machine [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] I want zero gap at the bottom but it's the way I created that that surface plane is at the very bottom so I have to make that changed and it's going to tell me to recalculate to a pass so now now that that that surface that plane is flat against the bottom now we can create our tool pass and then it's just a matter then of identifying here's our neck pocket here's what it's going to look like so what we'll do is that's highlighted we'll open that up and we'll recalculate that and now we'll reset our preview and on the machine that's what's going to happen it's going to cut that out then we've got the same token we're going to come over here and we're going to do the 3d surface of that will open that that's selected that surface will calculate that and we'll preview that and that creates the bottom so so you've got just like we did at the top it's a rough surface and then we have a finished surface and the rough surface basically removes the material for the pocket and the finished surface takes care of that slight angle and you'll be able to see it when it's running okay now it's getting position if you watch this it's just gonna pocket that it's going to move over to the next position it's going to step down at eighth of an inch each time even though I'm using a strike bid it's a same process with usually the top it's just a rough pass and a student with a straight router bits compensating for them [Music] [Music] [Music] and everything's coming up very well now it's time to actually do the perimeter so what we're gonna do first is cut through this material that separates a guitar body from the rest of the blank we're gonna take the corner pieces off the blank and get them out of the way then we're going to come in where we have good access to that entire edge and do a real nice aged finished job on there we're still 40,000 silver size so we've got some room to play with finish wine rock and roll [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Music] all right let's see what we've got well we've got a guitar body man that's incredible now I see how all that fit together there's I can see where they agreed that we fit on the top of the basement connects Wow there's a surface we turn it over and there's the holes line up these holes line up with those cavities that's incredible oh look at this here's the inclined surface because the neck on the guitar has an incline on it so we had to have a best set 3d surface a tree crepe that came out really nice Wow I like that mahogany too it looks good you're not really enjoyed doing this Les Paul style guitar party you know there's something very therapeutic about woodworking in general and it's also the same I found it the same way with CNC it's not so much how a tool feels against the wood it's about how you design something and you see it happen in front of you it's really the same thing well I hope you enjoyed the video we certainly enjoyed producing it for you if you need more information about the laguna IQ CNC or any other laguna tool call us at [Applause] [Music]

Channel: Laguna Tools

Views: 344,915

Keywords: laguna tools, woodworking, woodworking machinery, laguna, cnc, CNC Software/Mastercam (Brand), cnc router, Numerical Control, guitar, guitarmaking, guitar making, router, laguna cnc, laguna IQ, IQ CNC, laguna iq cnc, cnc tools, cnc wood router, cnc guitar, cnc cutting, cnc guitar cut, cnc router machine, cnc routers, how to cnc a guitar

Id: JgY4zP2LS5M

Length: 50min 46sec (3046 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 14 2014