DIY Les Paul Guitar Build (Black&Gold)

[Music] what's up fellow youtubers my name is mike and uh today i'll be making a video of uh of putting together a diy les paul kit this one is particularly for a customer um he wants it shiny black with white bindings um he doesn't want to show the wood grain so we're gonna have to primer this one to make sure we got all the wood grains covered we're just going to do a nice shiny black with a shiny clear coat finish we're going to be using some automotive supplies i saw a couple videos of a guy here on youtube he made some great videos and i really liked the product he was using and uh the way his finishes were coming out so i actually went ahead and bought a dupli-color primer the black paint and this uh automotive clear it's basically two cans in one you take this red cap off you put it in the bottom you pop it in and uh it mixes it up in there and uh basically gives you automotive quality clear coat which is pretty damn cool if you don't have any spray gun equipment or air compressors and things like that i will definitely link his youtube channels as well since this is where i got it from not trying to uh say that i figured this out but this guy does make some beautiful guitars and i'll be more than happy to share his link in the description uh basically what the customer wanted was a shiny black and gold guitar so i have a bunch of golden accessories here which i will give you a better close-up because they're very very beautiful but in short uh we're going to be using gold tuners uh gold bridge and saddle 500k emg pots and h4 and h4a emg gold pickups to top it off we're most likely going to be using some carbon fiber covers for the back for these control cavities and i'll probably be making that on my cnc machine i've i've made a couple other guitars this one's for a telecaster i made a pick guard and the control plate cover and once again i'll zoom into these things so you guys could get a clear picture of what it looks like after it's done so uh let's get in this build and uh i'll definitely be really excited to show you guys some more stick around all right guys so here's the parts that are going to be going on this guitar as you can see they're really really nice and shiny these are the uh emg conversion kits they're the long shafts this one's made for uh les pauls but i believe you probably could use this for other guitars as well because it does come with two uh adjusting nuts which you could adjust uh the height of it and let this back end basically sit a little lower and uh you could probably make it work this is the guitar neck i forgot to mention in that video where uh i actually put my own little design on top of the headstock and it's similar to the original les paul's but i did give it a little a bit of my own touch because i didn't want to just outright copy theirs and uh that's the neck we're gonna be painting this all black we're gonna make a shiny finish this is the body i'm gonna sand it down first uh and uh then move on to the primary stage and uh i'll just keep recording and updating you of all the steps and uh processes that i take to get this guitar body ready for uh paint uh polish and putting it together so stay tuned and i will show you guys more welcome back guys um today we're actually gonna start sanding this body uh we're gonna be using mainly 220 grit i like to use these diablo sanding discs that i get from home depot it's really cheap and it lasts a long time it's kind of like a mesh i could bring it closer to the camera it lasts a lot longer in my opinion than the regular paperback ones so we're gonna hit the back wood with 220 grit because it's a lot more coarse but the front since it is a veneer and it's a lot thinner we're going to go with 400 and we want this front to be a lot more smoother so let's just get into it and get this guitar going make sure you have your respirators on guys let's get to this so we're starting with the uh the 220 grit i like doing all my slots here first i feel like uh the flat surfaces are a lot easier and it's a nice way to get into actually [Music] naturally had and get any minor scratches that may show up uh oh see a lot of people uh use thinner blocks i like to use the thicker one uh it definitely gets a lot less flex in it and bend and uh you kind of do have a better grip on it as well so i personally think if you're trying to do a smooth surface it's flat use the thicker block [Music] and this body was already fairly clean or it has some minor scratches here i don't know if the camera could get it if you look in this area it has a little bit of a scratch from the previous ba or something but we're trying to basically level that out where you can't see it or it's just very very tiny at the end of the sand and all this and as you can see i'm going with the uh grain of the wood it's not really going to matter for this repair uh especially because we're going to primer it and paint it but uh it's pretty good practice to actually just go with the grain of the wood every time you're sanding or working with wood for that matter all right so that back part is pretty smooth i got i'd say about eighty percent of that little line out which i'm not too worried about i'm not gonna waste too much time on that because we're gonna primer it and a lot of that stuff like i said is going to get covered next step we're gonna go ahead and do the rounder edges this particular spot right here is uh probably the hardest part because you can't really you can't really hold it or or it just takes it takes a lot of uh precision and you don't you've got to go with the grain of the wood to get nice strokes so i'm going to start off with the hard part and then we'll just keep moving forward on the rest of the body for that you're probably going to want to use a rounder sanding block and uh let's get let's get to it and see how hard this one actually is to get cleaned up one thing i did learn is that i kind of hug the guitar body and and mount it down so it's more controlled when you're sanding it it does seem to work pretty good for me and if you guys have any better ideas of this feel free to write it in the comments and uh you'll definitely like to try that out and uh you do got to be careful not to sand the binding because these areas on the less politics are usually a lot thinner so just keep that in mind when you're standing not to go overboard or sand too much so i'm pretty satisfied with the way this looks again we're going to primer this if it was just going to be a spain and then clear coat i'd definitely put more time into this but since we're going to primer it and manage my shell it feels sweet to the touch it's gonna be good for these curve sides i love going in one straight shot rather than uh doing a little portion at a time uh you could start off with little portions at a time if you're just trying to take away material but this body is really clean as it is so i don't really have the need to do that i just do long strokes and uh i can already see this side is fully ready to go so we're just gonna continue around the whole body of the guitar until we're fully satisfied and then we can start doing the special corners the edges wanna uh make sure you're going full with the part and not to bend over because you don't want to uh mess up the edges while you're trying to straighten out the sides so always make sure nice and flat just to give a better example we want to go down flat on the side as flat as possible all right so the size i'm satisfied with next this part is really really really important you want to make sure all these corner edges are nice and round you don't want to have any sharp sharper edges when you normally look at the wood you could tell it has lines in it and you definitely want to eliminate those because they will come become a problem later on down the line when you're doing finishing or color sanding or anything like that another really good reason why i like using these meshes is because they're a lot more flexible for these corners as you can see it just lays right over it and it gives you a lot more refining if you would say for these corners corners and edges again this body is really clean as it is so it doesn't look like we're gonna need to do a lot of work here but i still like to go over it and make sure all the greens and grits match i normally don't use a sanding lock for this i kind of spread my fingers out and i kind of like uh lodge this sandpaper in and it makes like a perfect round edge or a circle for trying to flip that corner right so all right so i'm just going to touch up this edge right here to make that a little more smoother you probably won't be able to see it with the camera the difference the difference between the edges but i definitely do see it with my eyes so i'm definitely gonna push that up before we move forward again just launch it in between your fingers space it out and lightly go over it there and i think that looks perfect right there now that we got our back ends and the corners of our guitar standing down we're gonna move on to the front which we're gonna do with a 400 grit because it's a lot more thinner and it seems like there's a lot more softer wood and then we'll move on to the next portion of it here i got my 400 grit i like all right guys so now we're on to the front uh i like using paper towels i kind of fold them up shouldn't look a little something like this since the vest is curved up we want to have a little buffer or like a cushion to it so we're gonna hit this with the 400 grit again i got my paper towel on the front is really clean as it is again so we're gonna do very light sanding just to make sure it's nice and ready for the primer i am trying to stay away from the bindings so later on when we scrape it off it'll be a lot easier to scrape if everything is level so do keep that in mind all right guys so the front is good i'm happy with that let's move on to the neck uh so we can get this thing primary tonight the next uh the same material as the back so we're gonna use the 220 again i'm using the sanding block for the flat surfaces and then we'll switch it off the pan when we're doing the actual radius parts again i'm staying away from these brandings and indentations because i want to keep those as clean as possible you could always try to mask it with uh with the masking tape if you're not too confident in your soldering skills i've been doing this for a while so i'm fairly confident i just hold it at an angle and i barely ever even touch that so i'm not going to take the time to mask it but you can if you like so so all righty guys i think i'm pretty satisfied with the sanding job for now uh i'm going to mount a round tube to the back of this and a round tube for the actual guitar body i'll show you what i'm doing once i get it mounted on there i basically screw it with some screws through areas that you're not going to see after the car is built and i will show you exactly why i do it uh when the time is right so stay tuned and we'll be right back all right guys so i cut off a a 1 1 8 inch dowel we're gonna screw this into the guitar body so we can have something that will actually uh stick it in which would be this tube right here it will go in and we could mount this tube somewhere on the table and then it'll give us the ability to flip our guitar around when we're doing primer so you don't have to hold with one hand or be too difficult and you could have a better control on your sprayer if you could have both hands available so i've already made the holes for it um as you can see i'm gonna go ahead and start screwing those in be careful not to screw in to the other side you could probably use uh shorter screws but i actually this is what i have so this is what we're going gonna use at the moment and uh basically looks a little something like that and then when you put it uh put it in the tube and mount this tube on the table you can easily just turn it around and it's that much easier to spray your guitar bodies so that's for the body let's go ahead and get the neck going i already did screw uh pre-drilled these as well so we won't eat too much time off of the [Music] videos and same with this as you can see just slide it in the tube and uh easily move it around when you're spraying it so next i'm going to wipe this wood down with some denatured alcohol and a lint-free cloth so it's we make sure we remove all of our dust particles or wood wood pieces out of the body before we're ready to spray so that's my denatured alcohol and this is my lint-free cloth you don't have to go too heavy on it you don't want to really wet the wood too much either so just a light amount of alcohol should be plenty i like using it because it dries quick and it also removes any grease that might have came off of your hands into the actual wood parts all right so you all right guys so now that we've actually cleaned up the wood we're gonna mount these tubes onto the table and start our first coat of primer just to let you know these are also uh for hanging clothes they sell these at home depot so you could simply just go buy one to split it in half and you'll have enough for the neck and the body so uh home depot is where you're going to get these guys out okay so i've been shaking up this cam for about like 5-10 minutes now uh it's semi-warm i like spraying all my primers and spray can products when it's warm so i i put it in hot water uh this is basically what we're using today a duplicator primer and the first coat we always go ahead and give it a very light mist coat and then we follow up to give our heavier runs after the second and third one so here we go guys we always spray it once make sure it's clean and let's go all right that should be it for the first coat we're going to let this dry for like 10-15 minutes and then go ahead and put a nice thicker second coat and we'll probably let that dry for another 30 minutes before we put our hopefully third and final coat so there you have it let's move on to the actual body next and we'll keep it going so okay oh so you want to bring the camera from this side yes so so the third layer of primer it looks like i'm gonna do one more heavy coat but we're gonna let this dry overnight give it a light sand and then we'll better see if it needs any more primering because uh we don't want to over build it either but at the same time we won't really find out until the thing is sanded down so we can see if there's any open spots so stay tuned and uh we'll be back tomorrow to put on another layer if we need to and uh if we don't we're just gonna sand it out and get ready for paint welcome back guys so uh it's been three days since we primered our guitar body in the neck uh the primer came out really good i was really satisfied with it i was thinking i was gonna have to sand it and primer it again luckily we didn't have to run into that situation um i already did sand the body and the neck i kind of got carried away uh sanding and it was coming out really good so i just kept moving it forward and uh it's already sanded ready to go i basically started off with a 220 grit for the back and then uh again same for the front all the sides then i move that up to 400 then i move that up to 600 then 800 and my final 800 was a actual sanding paper like this it's not really sanding paper it's more like a mesh it's really flexible and gives a nice little finishing touch to it so everything's ready i'm happy with it looks like we're gonna go ahead and spray paint this black today but before i started spray painting it i wanted to clear the bindings so uh there they sell tools for this i personally don't like the tools you could just get like an exacto knife or a razor blade and carve an edge into it to have a perfect run around but at the same time a lot of these diy bodies the bindings are already not equal or even anyway so i just free hand it i like to clear out my binding now so i could sand this primer down and smooth it out a little bit more and when i paint it black it will take a lot lighter of a rub to just clear that binding off before i give the clear as i mentioned before we're not going to expose the binding on the sides we're just going to expose it in the front i already did start binding it cleaning the bindings a little bit so i'm going to continue doing that as you can see the rest of the guitar is not done yet but uh overall the primary came out really good nice and smooth as you can see give you guys a little close-up and same thing with the back this is the neck i already did sand down all these edges so it's smooth you don't have your finger doesn't hold up against it when you're running it down there and uh overall i'm pretty pleased with the primer job it was a one-shot thing came out really good i'm really happy with it so uh i'm gonna continue scraping the bindings now and start sanding these edges down lightly we'll mask the neck and we're pretty much ready to give it its first cone of paint it's going to be black it's going to be another spray can paint i showed it in the beginning of the video it's gonna be this dupli-color acrylic enamel paint so let's get into this again guys you just want to take your time with this no need to rush you don't want to scrape any areas you're not supposed to scrape i just put little pressure and just work my way down i move around the angles a little bit like this just to get my smoothest uh line going oh uh down so edge cool so there you have it guys the binding is exposed it's hard to see because it's very similar in color but we got our binding exposed i'm going to go ahead and sand down these edges now to smooth it out i'm going to use 600 grit sandpaper and just literally light water just to get it as smooth as possible and not too much either i don't want to introduce too much water to this body so uh the lighter the better on water cleaning the edges but uh still can't take this down a little bit more so all right guys so there you have it the binding is exposed i'm going to dry this out really well for like 5-10 minutes i don't want any of the water staying on there then i'm gonna clean it with some alcohol or any other things that you could use really to clean it i like alcohol i just do a light rub over it and that should get us pretty much free from any grease or debris and we're ready for our first coat of paint luckily the paint dries really fast so uh probably like 30 minutes after we paint it we're going to be ready to start putting the clear coats and uh i'm hoping to get all our clear coating done by the end of tonight so we let that cure for a day or two uh we'll intermittently take it in and out of the sun to make sure it's doing some slow uh curing and uh hopefully that'll be the last layer we need to put on there as far as clear goes and we could sand it polish it and get to the fun stuff which is assembling it and hearing this guitar actually come to life so stick around guys and uh we'll be back soon with the painting video and there are rest of the steps that remain alongside with this uh beautiful les paul build we're doing for our customer so stick around we'll see you guys soon all right guys so uh i'm all messed up ready to go ready to put our layer of paint on there again we're going black i've shipped the can up for about 10 minutes now i did warm it up like the previous uh primer video i don't know why it just i feel like it sprays better and it dries quicker as well so i always like warming up my cans you don't necessarily have to but you can if you'd like so here we go so all right guys so that's that for the neck we're gonna move on to the body next i think we got pretty good coverage here back so all right guys so we're gonna let this dry out for like 10-15 minutes come back check the evenness on it uh we don't need to re-spray after this we're pretty much ready for clear i think i got a really good coverage on this but uh the only way to find out is let this bad boy dry all right guys so it's all painted i'm super happy with it i'm ready to move to the next steps as you can see i started scraping the bindings already um i'm doing it again with this exacto razor blade works spectacular just uh just got to be careful not to scratch anything uh and just focus on the areas you need to actually clean up so i'm gonna keep pushing at this until we're finished i'm almost all the way at the end so let's keep it going [Music] [Music] i'm probably gonna let this little part dry a little bit more uh it looks like it's a little bit wet still so we're gonna let that dry that area but everything else seemed fine so far so we're just gonna keep moving at it she's starting to look really beautiful with this outline i think it's looking really really really nice foreign [Music] how she looks now we're just gonna let this fully cure and dry for another like 30 minutes and we'll be back to spray the clear coat on this and uh hopefully like i said earlier in the video we'll be good enough to uh just color sand from there on after and just move forward with assembling this guitar all right guys here's that moment we've been waiting for uh we're getting ready to spray the clear coat uh this is that two-part clear coat um 2k meaning two parts actually so we're gonna put that red cap in the bottom put it in there hit it and then shake the cap a little bit more and we'll be ready to spray so stay tuned i'm really excited to put this coat on so far everything's been going really really well uh all we need to do is get this clear coat sprayed on there and uh if everything permits we should be able to start uh color sanding and polishing within a day or two and uh we'll do another video of actually putting together the guitar and all the little challenges that we're gonna run into because i'm sure we are going to run into some challenges i have never put together a guitar where i don't run it all right guys so we just popped that in we're gonna shake it for another two minutes as the instructions say and uh start a clear spring so [Music] so so so um um there you have it guys literally a glass finish i always like to leave my guitars more on the side hopefully you don't have any runs but that way you reduce the chances of collecting a lot more dust on it as you can see this is so clean that we're probably gonna have like minimal color sanding and polishing work to do it on this bad boy it came out really really really good especially for not really having a spray booth i mean look at it same thing with the neck really nice and shiny got that deep black and clear coat on there i'm happy with this guys i think it came out phenomenal stick around we'll be back with the color sanding and uh polishing and then we're gonna go right back down to assembly and getting all the nice little pieces on this guitar welcome back guys so uh it's been three days now that we've let this clear coat dry uh i did lightly color sand this a little bit i started off with a 1500 grit it looks like it's doing the job pretty well it didn't take me long to get it here um we're going to continue sanding with the 1500 if we run into any heavy bumps or anything we'll probably switch to like a 800 or a thousand today i'm going to be using these little sanding pads along with this little foam holder i got this from pet boys i believe a few years back and i had it left over and i like it because it's tiny controllable and uh pretty flexible but not too flexible so it's a pretty good sanding block i got a little spray over here it's just a regular alcohol bottle i dumped it out and put clean water in here um normally with wood you don't want to wet sand unless you're raising the grains but for this occasion i got uh i i'm sure you guys saw how much clear coat we put on this so i think it's pretty well sealed i i feel confident that we'll be okay uh using a little bit of water to color sand this so let's get started and see where this leaves us okay so it looks like sanding side to side on the circle radius does a pretty good job so it looks like we're going to continue doing that from here on until we lay it down a little more flat as you can see these shiny spots still need to come down a little bit i am working with 1500 so it's taking longer than usual but uh it was really smooth to begin with so i think i'm going to keep working with the 1500 doesn't look like it's taking too much longer than it would regularly so let's just keep continuing with the 1500 damn that actually is pretty damn smooth awesome these sides were not going to touch because they're clean i don't want to open any of the edges yeah that's going to be a kind of pin all right guys so here we have it um we got the sanded with 1 500 grit really nice there's barely any shiny spots on there um i am standing with 1500 so it's a lot harder to penetrate the clear down to the paint but even then i am really careful i stay away from these edges uh it's really clean if i polish it and i'm not happy with it i'll probably go back and risk it then but since the paintwork and clear clear coat was so smooth i think we're gonna get away with it if you could get away from sanding these thinner corners i would really suggest doing so because no matter how good you are you end up burning through clear really easily over here so i would definitely avoid those areas if it's clean if it's not you might as well give it a shot by sanding it and then if you need to re-clear it you got to re-clear it to get it done right i'm probably going to touch up this back a little bit i'm not too happy with that so i'm going to take my time i'm going to be really careful with it and let's see how that goes and we're ready to basically move on to the body which i'm sure everybody's been anticipating along uh with myself and uh our camera crew over here awesome let's do this guys i'm not going to use the block i'm just going to try to do my finger keep it as controlled as possible all right just a little smudge more and more and we're gonna leave it at that the rest should polish up and look pretty smooth so here you have it guys that's the neck um nice and color sanded we're probably going to do another sanding with 2500 it moves a lot quicker from here because we got it all smoothed out so that'll be a quick little rub down of 2500 and we're ready for polishing this piece right here all right guys so as we promised down to the body let's remove this uh stock that we added on and let's get standing all right let's wipe it down since it's been sitting for okay all right guys so to be cutting down clear with uh 1500 grit this quickly you know it's done right um i'm not trying to brag but you could see with 1500 grit look how quickly we got down to uh almost having it flat there's a few fish eyes around here here here here but we'll just focus on those with a little bit of finger pressure you want to go very light you don't want to go around it you want to go literally on the on the little dot that's sticking up so let's keep going at this until we have it nice and smooth and then basically i want to do this portion right here and then move up into this portion and flip it over to the back so let's just keep it rolling i'm going to grab another piece of sandpaper because these are really tiny and they do get clogged up even even though we're using water with this setup right here so you okay guys so now we're getting really close to being very smooth on this portion the lower portion of the guitar um i am gonna smoothly feather out the uh the edges a little bit more but i will not touch it uh touch the edges with sandpaper whatsoever the edges usually don't need any color sanding so uh i would stay away from those as much as possible but i do want to get this little corners out right here so um we're still gonna have a little shiny black line but not this much it's gonna be a little bit less from where it's at right now so um alrighty guys so we got the lower half done i'm really happy with it um you could still see very few little shiny dots but we're still going to do a 2500 coat of sandpaper so it's either going to get those out or they're going to be close to being invisible so now we're just going to continue the top portion of this guitar uh with the the 1500 and then flip it to the back get the back done and move forward with 2500 grit um so hmm okay now let's just do this okay all righty guys so it looks like we're pretty much done yes we are ready to move forward this is pretty darn close to having an immaculate finish once it's uh polished buffed and polished so let's switch this side over to the back and keep moving forward from the lipstick it's just all right guys so we got the 1500 done everything came out good so far uh we didn't bust into the actual paint we got plenty of clear coat we're going to do 2000 next so i decided to go from 1 500 to 2 000 and i'm gonna polish right from there i know a lot of people like raising up the grains and going all the way up to like four thousand five thousand personally from my experience i don't see much of a difference in the finish so i like just stopping it at 2000 or 2500 um i like leaving as much clear coat on the guitar as possible so it has a lot less chance of breaking through the paint barrier um and for for the future too actually because you could uh always take this guitar apart and color sand and polish it again throughout the years and the more material you have on there the better that's always going to come out so 2000 here we go we're going to do one final touch up on this and get ready to do the actual polishing and before we move forward i want to show you what i'm sanding with i cut these up into four pieces it's a circle they're circle discs it's called tiger shark i got this from amazon it does a really really really good job actually uh of of sanding it's it's really nice sandpaper and it lasts a long time um i'm not affiliated with them or anything so it's not a commercial they're not paying me to save this but i really do like it i just cut them up into little piece of pies and it's more controlled that way rather than using a five inch sanding disc with your bare hands endorsements are welcomed so all right guys so there you have it that's the front we're going to flip around there's something on the back and uh so uh we got it color sanded we did 2500 i'm ready to use some cutting compound i like to use mcguire's mirror glaze it's an ultra cut compound it works pretty good it's a heavy cut and i usually just use like a very soft foam pad with a with a drill it's small piece so it doesn't need to spin too fast you could at the end of the gate they get a really good gloss on this and then uh basically that's what we're going to be using uh so the steps where you have to color sand it 1500 2500 then you go take a bath and uh wash yourself and then you get the towel i'm just kidding about that i'm using the same towel i was using beneath here beneath the guitar just so i don't get any compound on me it does get really messy and uh it's a pretty good way of saving your clothes so let's get to polishing guys so you want to spread that around or as soon as you start that drill it's going to blow it everywhere so i just like spreading it around getting it coated on the whole body and then continuing from there us all right guys so we got it all polished up uh i'm probably gonna assemble the neck next then we're gonna go with a smaller polishing uh head to run over it and make sure we got all the little corners and crevices my pad was a five inch pad and i need to get a smaller one to do the finer details but now i'm gonna glue the neck let that rest overnight so it's nice and dry in the morning i'm basically gonna use this melamine board that i put tape over i'm gonna put this in the back and clamp it down once i put the neck on so we'll clamp it down from right here and uh hopefully by tomorrow morning it'll be dry enough i can make a run to the hardware store grab myself some smaller polishing pads do the final polishing on this and then we're pretty much ready to assemble so let's get let's get to it guys we're going to use some type on three ultimate wood glue this stuff is really strong once it dries so uh here you go there you go so uh this thing is pretty good to use for next little stick i like putting the glue on the actual body because when it when the neck slides down it doesn't squeeze it out from the sides of the neck it more uh squeezes it down and then there is a lot less surface area to clean up that way i got a really tight fitment on the neck so i'm not going to put too much glue i find it to be kind of pointless doing that because it's all gonna squeeze out anyway but uh just a nice little coat that'll depend on your actual smoothness and tightness of the neck so let's see how this goes down it's a nice tight fit i want to make sure it's all seated all around and all the way give it a nice little push and uh i think we're ready to clap ready to clamp this i'm just kind of finger tightening it so you don't over tighten it too much i'm probably gonna put another one right here so one in the front one in the back but before i get to that i'm gonna get a clean paper towel wipe off the excess glue it's very little actually didn't squeeze out a whole lot i like to just wet a paper towel get it literally wet and just grab the corners wipe it down flip it around wipe it down boom and uh that stuff cleans off pretty easy now this is a black guitar and the wood glue will show on the white but those are probably like little touch-ups we could do all the way at the end just to make sure we're nice and cleared up on this all right so let's put the next clamp in the front do again finger tighten it not too much but not too little you want it to be nice and jammed in make sure all the edges are pressed in there we're squeezing out a little more wood glue from the back but that's totally expected all right guys so here we are just waiting on our neck to uh dry out polish did come out pretty good i'm really happy with it i can't see i'm 100 excited about it or uh i think it's 100 compared to what we've been able to get before but uh i think when i go and polish it one more time do a detail polish of all the little uh imperfections that are bugging me on this guitar uh i'll be a lot more happier with it yeah my five inch pad was just a little too big so i can't really control that good thing is that i do have a little bit of patience i didn't let it run off the edges uh because if we did we're prep we're probably going to have a lot of burn marks on there which is a pain to fix you do not want to do that off of experience uh my experience told me to just hold it over here and call it at night glue the neck get it ready and we'll do the final polishing when i actually get the right pads for it i did have a few here in the workshop but they were kind of old and i didn't want to risk putting more scratches into it so new pads for this guitar and we'll keep it moving from there what's up guys so uh we're back with this guitar we got all the color sanding polishing done looks spectacular really happy with it we're gonna do a light little touch-up polish once we're done with the whole guitar uh i stuck some um vinyl transfer paper that i had in the bottom so i could freely move this around without worrying about it getting scratched this is gonna come through clutch uh before moving forward what i really like to do is um i like to put the bridge um studs in place so when i turn it around and put it down and when i'm doing the wiring we're basically not touching the actual paintwork and it's just resting on top of those guys and the neck basically for these vest talls it uh sits basically on this nut up here and it gives a good little surface to work on it you don't need no protection pieces or towels or anything like that beneath it so uh today we're actually gonna get started on this copper taping we're gonna tape all of these uh inner open cavities here here one point with my index finger uh we're gonna do the where the pickups are where the pickups go we're gonna all copper tape and all that and then we're gonna get started on our wiring uh this is from emg this kit i got all the pots and switches and uh the the jackpots right here and uh yeah basically this whole wiring uh came from emg i did buy these separately i bought the passive kit for the the pickups that i actually bought which are these h4s and h4as uh the the h rays are going to go up towards the neck and the h4s are gonna go uh in the bottom for uh for the bridge so we got those uh it's really straightforward i just followed this diagram it's like literally plug and play the only thing we do have to uh solder is going to be this uh selector switch and that's pretty much it everything else is pretty much just plug in place so that makes things really easy all right guys so let's get to it i'm gonna start uh putting in this cardboard tape and moving forward from there so we can start putting in our electrical putting down our actual uh pickups and uh bridge and tuners and all that other good stuff so stick around with me and let's get this guitar built yes and little exacto knife right here that's that's probably all you're going to need to cut this copper copper tape it's really simple and flexible so it's easy to work with i usually like working uh in segments on these things i don't try to do the whole thing at once because it becomes near impossible to do that but uh working in little pieces as we go definitely works really well for this type of stuff uh [Music] so so so human ugh all right guys so time to press in these little studs i like using the end of a hammer not this part but this part uh i have a couple rags placed underneath it so i don't uh press down on the body uh in between rough surfaces so here we go guys let's push this first one in that's one and that's two it did take a little bit of uh force to get that done but uh it's better tight than loose honestly so here we go guys [Music] [Music] um so okay guys so next i'm gonna go ahead and put in the let me just put this down real quick uh next i'm gonna go ahead and put in the actual pots these guys they're already pre-wired i like separating them sometimes it's easier to work that way so i'm going to start off with the next okay so so you you you do all right guys so i'm going to use these to solder uh the switch wire up the pickup selector switch wire and then uh we'll finally connect these these wires that come to this control cavity and they're gonna go in here these uh one two three four ports and we're pretty much done uh with the wiring as far as that goes and then we just gotta connect the pickups and the little things here and there but uh i'm gonna keep pushing forward i'm not about to solder this right now i'm going to turn it around and put all the uh the nuts and uh and washers for the pots and then we'll probably move forward to putting on the tuners and uh will connect these uh pickups and then from there we'll do the soldering for this wiring the pickup switch and uh just keep moving it forward so hang in there guys i'm gonna keep going step by step for you guys so you guys see exactly how this thing is being put together all right guys so here we have it we got all the stuff on there all the chrome all the gold-plated stuff sorry it's late by the way i've been working away at this bad boy we got all the uh all the parts installed my wiring done i'll zoom in a little bit right there so you can see i'm still fully not finished i just gotta do like uh i gotta solder the grounds together and uh i believe we could test it from there but i basically wanted to get back on the camera and show you guys how it came out really really really nice i'm really excited to uh show this to you guys and i can't wait till the owner actually checks this thing out it came out really beautiful but uh yeah from here on i'm just going to get started with the strings i'm going to string everything on there and then uh plug it in and see how it sounds so for the strings these are my favorite uh strings they're fender super bullets uh you put these bad boys on they don't break you'll probably wear them out before they break and uh i really love these i've been using these for years and uh you can't go wrong with them

Channel: CaliWoodConnect

Views: 4,105

Rating: 4.7922077 out of 5

Keywords: Guitar, electric guitar, gibson, fender, Stratocaster, telecaster, music, Les Paul, SG, prs, emg, strings

Id: WceMb9yV_yo

Length: 106min 18sec (6378 seconds)

Published: Thu Mar 04 2021