Turning Small Parts on a Lathe

hey guys don't buy here advance innovations welcome back to the shop as I stand here it is a couple days past Christmas 2019 and I want to say thank you to everyone that sent me holiday wishes very much appreciated and hope to keep this up for 2020 anyway today's demonstration that I'm going to show you were going to make a stupid small part on that engine late today and it's going to be done with the technique that I call coordinating my tools and by knowing where the tools are you basically don't even have to look at your tools you just look at your numbers on your travel dials they're currently obsolete or your carriage indicator your Dro and you just trust the numbers that you've come up with but there is a baseline that you must establish before you do this and that's what coordinating the tools technique is all about sometimes you just can't register a tool on a specific part because of the part geometry and you better know where the tools are before you make your next cut or you're winging it or just rolling the dice it's awkward situation when you have to plunge a tool into a part and then measure to see if the tools in the right spot it's always good to know that you're within your dimensional boundaries before you do that so I'm going to zoom in on this graphic behind me and I'm going to show you exactly what I'm talking about and it's a technique that has served me well over the years so let's zoom in take a look okay that's with any part weren't any featured on any part you got to start somewhere right the tool has to be registered banked identifiable or whatever if you have a dro some of the some of the more modern bureaus have tool offset spur tools so if you know the tool is in your holder you just hit that button and all of a sudden it's zero where it needs to be zero it's not always so easy if you have a single axis dro where you're using an indicator and that's where this comes in handy let's say the red tool holder right here on the top is you're facing tool when you face the part off you have established what I always call the parent surface or the parent feature or the zero plane but you face it off there you go that's a finished surface and everything usually dimensioned from a given surface let's assume that is your service well the next tool in line the chances of that next tool in line being exactly coordinated or aligned with that parent service is slim to none so you need to know that difference and that difference is right here I have let's say we have a facing tool and a parting tool so with a facing tool you smack your material out the end of the park and you indicate or you set your dials to zero right there zero that is the face take this tool and output this next tool in now if you were parting this piece off let's say a specified dimension here that you have to know where the inside of that parting tool is this is the part off side the inside of that tool is prepared to the face of the previous tool that way you can take that value let's call it 800 it's probably not but let's call it 800 okay whatever they give in to mention on the part is you would then add the 800 to that dimension plus a couple extra now if you want to think you're going to turn it around and face it off but that's what I would do and add five or ten flip it around face it off make sure it's nice and clean because part of us doesn't leave a good finish so whatever that dimension is here you just add that tool offset and when you shift over darling part if dollars to lead and you have exactly what you think you have now the only drawback to this is if something happens to this tool you've changed that tool or that tool starts to wear gets chipped and the part surface changes well then that affects every tool downstream that you have registered that particular setup from so keep an eye on it but it's a great way to just take a pad find all your offsets write all your numbers down write all your dimensions down and then you just look at the numbers as you're making your part no panic no nothing it's easy works like a charm I'm going to make a really small part using this coordinated technique and I'm going to show you that it does work and I'm also going to throw in some of the extended small diameter turning from a previous video we're gonna make tiny little nails because you guys know that once upon a time I started a canid project and I'm going to make everything on that Canon including the nails to put the wooden frame together so let's take walk out see how it works okay this is the part I will be making for you simple now it's an O 20 thick head that's about a half a millimeter fall you guys in the UK we got a 150 diameter it's about 4 millimeters o 30 diameter which is about 0.8 500 long from the point to the inside of the head so 525 that would be what 12.75 millimeters long inside about 13 millimeters overall making this out of brass and you can see by the geometry this is not a part that you can bump or register your tools after the fact so you got a preset up and I think you're going to like what you see so let's pop a piece of brass in the Machine and it doesn't matter brass steel whatever I'm just going to choose to make this out of brass for it just so we can knock it out 85,000 tip at 20 degrees that was inspired by a question about how to do that on a much longer part and I think today you're going to see exactly how to do that on a long part like this long compared to the diameter it's long it's not actually very long but it is very flimsy you do it with a form tool or single point that after the fact and you can kiss this part to buy so let's spin up the late until we got let's take a look at the setup I'm gonna use a high speed steel tool to turn this I always like high speed on brass and aluminum just because I think it gives a better surface finish compound is set at 10 degrees to give me the 20 degree nose angle I am on 0 back here first part of this setup is going to be which I've already done it's the center of the tool height and then we're going to take one shot pass to find out what our number is on our cross slide to hit that o 30 diameter this is just a setup cut this is not for the part strictly a set up cut to get the number and then I'm going to do the same thing to establish the secondary larger diameter in the back just to get the number and you can see I'm a big fan of Sharpie markers on my slide here so I am going to take alcohol and clean this all off and I'm going to put marks on the steel corresponding with the number on the dial so I know right where I'm at at any given time okay let's get that done okay in a setup like this if you are going to coordinate your tools and look for specific numbers on the tool versus the feature that you want to create make sure that you set that tool under actual working conditions okay we're gonna plan on hitting that othor diameter 500 long in one shot so when you set the tool don't take a test cut and say okay well I have 38 and move the tool another 8 and say okay well now it's 30 because when the load on the tool changes the resulting feature is going to change as well so you want the tool loaded and the part loaded and everything loaded exactly the same way it's going to be when you make the real cut so I'm going to try this I'm going to take a cut here look for the o30 diameter if it's not there I will face off what I just did make my adjustment and take another single shot pass so that's what you're going to see I want everything loaded exactly the way it's going to be when we go for the final feature [Applause] that is more than sufficient the stock is much larger than the final part because I do not want the material to deflect aggressively with the large cut that is seventy four and a half considerably more than it needs to be so forty four and a half more coming [Applause] that's getting pretty small it's gonna be cool to see that with a big lead on it we are at 30 32 and change [Applause] we were about 30 and three-tenths for what i'm doing demonstration that is more than sufficient 116 and a half is the number we're gonna go for the head 150 here we go [Applause] 191 forty-two I'm going to creep up on this one because this is a larger diameter and that pressure will be a lot less [Applause] 149 and a half [Applause] I will make my adjustment oh my number 194 and a half now I need to coordinate the turning tool with the parting tool for that I need a flat surface in the front [Applause] this is a finished surface right now the digital readout is set on zero this would be the time for you to set your indicator to zero and if you don't know where the relationship from one tool to the other is then set your indicator your drop indicator to let's say 500 if you have a one inch stroke that way you can float either way a half an inch and still know what you have but just remember where you started okay my digital readout is on zero you [Applause] the heights good first always make your adjustments with the block loose your adjustment thumbwheel here is going to have a tendency to rock back and forth and you want to make sure you get a good read I'm going to finish this head on a piece of everyone I'm done fine all right now since it's the overall length that I want and not a specific driven feature I'm gonna move my parting tool inboard on this part and you can use a machinist scale you can use whatever you want but I like to use single edge razor blades and I will drag the front of this part that'll tell me if I have a face off burr or a protrusion tint whatever you want to call it in the middle of my part which I don't and when I start to feel and hear a click on though that the working surface of my parting tool is in line with the face of that tool with the face of the part I am right there hope you can see that what I'm doing here's the click click hear it it's hanging up on the inside of the parting tool that way when the carriage moves a set distance the part is going to be that left [Applause] [Applause] like my digital readout is reading 231 now I need to know if I'm on the outside or the inside of that 231 so I know what dimension to add to my part the carriage is 231,000 farther in and it would be if that was a facing tool so I need to add 231 to whatever length I'm looking for that would make my final shift 751 on the digital resulting in a 520 long part ok let's see what we got now if you pay attention to the way the print was dimensioned you know that the angle of the tip on the front is 85,000 long 85 so after I part this or excuse me after I face this off I'm going to shift the entire carriage 85,000 in and I'll show you why stay put [Applause] now would not normally move a tool across the finished surface but for this demonstration I think it's a valuable thing to do I'm gonna back it off to just because I don't want to hurt anything I'm moving my tool in to where the tool is going to form that finished 33rd I am etre and that is at 1/16 and a half on my cross line all right if I were to continue cutting with this tool right now I would have the 30,000 now I'm gonna back the compound out the tool is now clear of the part on an angle I'm going to move the whole carriage in the 85,000 let's go a t-55 now effectively what I just did in theory when this tool starts to traverse on the 10 degree angle it's going to intersect the face of this part dead center with the part and form a perfectly sharp corner so let's see what happens perfectly sharp point and even if this doesn't work I'm going to leave it in the video we're gonna figure out why if you want to you can take the compound pastor zero point at this point the 85 now if was to assure that you get a sharp point here you can override it if you want but don't go too far that is 25e on the o85 length set by the carriage shift when I said stupid small I meant that what it's even getting hard for me to see now with apart this fragile you would not be able to bump your tools or set your tools so what you saw me do prior to this operation was about the only way you're gonna pull this off I'm going to return the tool back to the zero on the compound initial setting okay back to where it was when everything got coordinated back to zero and when I returned my carriage to zero that tool is right on the tip of that 20 degree conical feature at a 30,000 now I'm going to take the 30,000 I ammeter back to the 500 on the print sorry if this is confusing but I think you're gonna like what you see when it's done let's go for 502 again I'm feeding this by hand right now 300 400 coming around five hundred going back into the 150 major diameter I'm gonna take that right to the college because I think I'm gonna and with any kind of luck I have the space to get in there and part this off number we're looking for on the digital is 751 boy that's going to be close there we go we should give us an O 25 big head guys if you're going to be working on to delicate features like this don't use tools that are wider than the feature that you need to create a thin real thin parting tool would probably be a good idea here because the material is going to want to walk up in over this tool when we get closer to the center also do yourself a favor and before you're done back out the tool and put a small jeweler file in there you can hold it with your left hand right hand over the top underneath I don't care how you do it but don't get your fingernails caught in the face of a collet when you're doing fine detail work like this because when these slices come around and grab you by the nail that's going to feel like you got hit with a hammer another good point to make that has been pointed out by several of the people that have commented on these videos try not to use a file that's going to get lodged in a groove that's about the same width as a file that is a really quick way to have that thing kick back at you and scare the life out of you and possibly hurt you so if you're going to use a file use one that's conservatively thinner than the groove to avoid that and not continue the cut go to the bench check it up all right let's take a look at the park compared to the print the only thing I've done to it off-camera take a really small pair of clippers and remove the part off burr on the back but that's the part right there we're looking for an O 30 diameter here that cameras right in my face so let's see we got I would say that's pretty close I would say that's ridiculously close Oh 20 thickness on the head which all we did was trust our numbers from the original initial coordination of the tools 20 I am very pleased with that and that number you naturally on your second part if this number is off then make the adjustments on the values that you need now for a 520 overall length chances are I am going to damage the point on this but I'm gonna give it a shot anyway actually I'm not because there is a small protrusion right here that I have not sanded off yet and it's going to give me a longer than normal reading anyway there you go guys that's how it's done you got a zero those tools prior to trying anything and you have to evaluate your features practicality sequentially you would not want to try to put this on after that was turned it would just detonate it would climb over the tool chatter bark so you establish that first and then turn it and then turn the head part it off and just keep your fingers crossed that you hit everything anyway there it is stupid small I mean I've worked smaller but for this demonstration any smaller I wouldn't be able to film it thanks for watching happy new year okay I think you can see the benefit of knowing where each tool is in relation to the dimension on the print the parent tool the zero surface do your homework right up front figure all this stuff out that way you don't struggle per part if you have to make multiple parts hopefully they'll all come out the same hope you like what you saw hope it helps you in your shop thank you very much for watching and if I don't post another video before the end of the year which is pretty highly you're not gonna happen I wish you all very happy and healthy prosperous 2025 innovations in Austin Texas you

Channel: Joe Pie

Views: 151,336

Keywords: Joe Pie, JoePieczynski, Advanced Innovations, advanced innovations llc, how to, machine shop, shop tricks, shop hacks, shop techniques, shop tutorials, lathe videos, lathe, turning small parts, making small parts on a lathe, lathe tricks, lathe hacks, lathe tutorials, coordinating your tools, lathe setup, making nails, diresta, abomb79, abom, avee

Id: vg6ug0FDhos

Length: 26min 54sec (1614 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 28 2019