Generator Head Installation - How to Install a Generator Stator and Rotor

hey guys welcome back so the last video I published was on this generator and I was troubleshooting a lack of power and we found out that the windings that provide power to the AVR were bad so this gen head is basically trash and usually what that happens you don't fix it and I looked up the part and it was $800 the part that was listed specifically for this generator but I did do a bit of digging and I found another one which is here that sells brand-new for about $300 so I looked around and found it actually listed somewhere for two hundred and nineteen dollars so I jumped on that or did it needless to say the seller of that canceled the order stating that they couldn't sell it for that price ordered from another place for like 250 they also canceled that order for the same reason so I Pony DUP paid the 300 and it actually arrived but it was a tough journey because when I came out on my porch this morning this is what I saw this box I didn't open that's how it arrived and this was just sitting in the mail bin you can see it did suffer damage this end cover is quite badly bent up and it's supposed to be sitting on that lip but it's been pushed in so you know I need a new tap already probably just use the old one and hopefully everything behind it survived you know other than that it's just some scratches and scuffs so it's been a while I've been trying to get this for almost two months so I'm not too anxious to return it I'm gonna try to make this thing work so let me get you set up in a stand and get going on this thing first things first I want to pull this cover off and just see how bad or the extent of the damage that actually looks pretty good I don't see anything broken under here so we got lucky and you know the old end cover it's a little rusted but I'll freshen that up with some paint and it should fit on and it does fit on perfectly so as far as I can tell that's really the only thing that's damaged beyond repair so I think we're in good shape so let me get that bad generator head off and get this one on [Music] sorry with the bolts removed from the stator as well as down here theoretically this should slide out I [Music] want to give you a better look at the carnage here the windings mostly look good but if you see keep going around you'll see right there where it burned through and it's similar on the other side so the main power windings are all good but the two here and the two right there are the ones that provide power to the AVR you can see those are the ones that burned up unfortunately so before pupping this rotor off I do need to fill a cylinder with rope and I've already rotated the piston so it's at the bottom and I'm just going to feed this rope in until it's full and that should basically walk up the engine so that I can torque down you know and get the rotor out you you in my last video I showed you how to measure a ride to put in there so I think I still have that I'm just going to pop it back in and use that to push the rotor off wow that was uneventful before I can install this I need to get all the hardware off so I can separate that rotor and stator so new bellhousing from what i can tell it's the same design same size so I'd rather not pull the bolts and put the new one on if I don't have to so I'm going to leave this one alone and try putting it together with the old bell housing so I'm having trouble getting this data to slide on and I think it's hanging up right here there's like a little spring here on the outer race here on the ball bearing and I think that's supposed to help it stay still so it doesn't spin anyway it's not sitting quite right I don't know if that was part of the damage that it suffered or if I'm just being too too wimpy trying to push the stator in but I want to swap it out just with the one from the old rotor and see if it goes on any better [Music] okay that's much better I'm gonna put the bolts on and just loosely tighten them maybe to 20 inch pounds and then I wanna what I want to do I guess I want to pull the rope out spin the engine make sure the rotor isn't scraping against the stator because if it is this power head won't last long again you know when you line everything up it doesn't take much there's a very small air gap between the stator and rotor and if you get it wrong you're going to destroy the gen ed pretty quick okay good I don't hear any rubbing or scraping so that means the stator is positioned well and not hitting the rotor so when I finished working these down I usually talk them to about 80 inch pounds again I don't know what the specs say on this but given the size bolt and that it's going into aluminum I don't dare go much more than that so while I'm here I'm just gonna get the exhaust off I want to get that painted up as well as the old end cover and one thing I noticed I have to look at a parts diagram here but usually I mean there isn't there is a heat shield here that I took out for the fuel tank because it's a plastic tank needs to stay cool with that exhaust here but there's usually something that goes behind the exhaust to kind of shield some of the heat away from the stator so that it doesn't melt down you know wear out the insulation from overheating and I don't see that on the newer model Huskies they had something that bolted on down here and then bolted on here so I could buy one of those I just don't know if there's enough clearance for the tank or even if it's recommended for this generator so - a little bit of research on that and come back to that later when I put this back together getting ready to reconnect the state of wires and I'm noticing one thing here this while there's four wires coming out of here which is good sometimes they have three the old one also has four wires coming out but you can see the colors are different we got blue red white and black and if you look here you just have white black black white and and actually the wires coming down from the outlets to say it was just two black wires and two white wires so I'm assuming that the whites are neutral and I've already tested that with the wires going to the outlets they are in fact a neutral but they're connected together so if I were to put these in the wrong spot I'd essentially be jumping between the posts and if they're not both neutral then you're essentially going to end up with a lot of power going through this neutral it's going to cause some sort of a meltdown so I'm gonna hook this up maybe just one of the whites for now start it up and do some tests down here I want to test between the black wires which should be 240 volts and then of course between the black and the white should be 120 on both and then I've never done this before but I assume if I test the voltage between the whites it should be zero so I just want to make sure that that it is and then I will connect the second white wire going to the outlets and then we should be good all right so before connecting all these wires I wanted to show you guys what readings a healthy new stator and rotor should have so and this is also for my own benefit I want to make sure that this is one winding and this is the other so I want to connect the lead here one to each wire and make sure I get a reading and yeah that's good so it should be between point two and point five so that's a good reading and then down here on this other winding we get the same so that's as healthy as you can get it's only downhill from there now as far as the other wire is going the the blue wires which supply the power to the AVR or bad and the other one I think it tested at a point six and this one theoretically should be healthy because it's new get about two ohms so that I guess is a normal reading for this generator head and now the white green which is what supplies voltage to the AVR not voltage to power it up but it's used to measure the voltage is being created and then it adjusts a VR accordingly and similar to the stator maybe a little our 0.2 then finally the rotor the old rotor that was in here was around 70 ohms which is right very borderline reading and this one's much better it's around 53 ohms so those are the readings that you should get on a perfectly healthy hopefully stator and rotor setup now there is one other difference here in the original stator the wires were a white wire a black wire and then a red and a blue in this case the colors are a little different so you know I'm assuming the whites of the neutral and the blacks are the you know the the hot wires so with that said I do have wires coming down from the outlets and they actually match and I've already tested them and the white definitely goes to the the neutral side of the outlet but the thing to note is that the white wires are connected up in the electrical box so if I test each of these white wires we're actually going to read continuity so these are a little bit dangerous because if you put them in the wrong spot you're actually completing a circuit and you go too short stuff out so when I reconnect this I'm going to hook up the black wires to the black and one of the white wires to one of the whites yeah I'm going to start it up test it you know one of the outlets should work and I'm going to test the voltage between the black wires if those are the Hutt's it should be 120 sorry 240 volts and the voltage between the whites I would expect to be zero although I've never tested that before so I do want to see what those readings are before I just connect all the outlet wires you know I don't want something bad to happen you you to hook up the AVR the red wire goes on the left brush the black on the right and then this plugs in only one way because it's keyed okay so we're almost ready for contact just gonna throw the spark plug back in get the exhaust on and I'm going to leave this cover off for now because I want to test the voltages coming out this wire I'm gonna purposely leave off for now as I mentioned earlier I'm just gonna wrap it up in tape so nothing bad happens but this is more of us in when your generator might be a little different sometimes as three wires coming out not four and sometimes the white is bonded to ground so you got to take note of those differences and in my case - it's it doesn't bond to the ground which is somewhat rare most of the ones I work on the two bonds to grant also since these wire colors are different you know you got to take caution when hooking everything back up especially wires that are coming together like these two whites which is why I'm leaving this off and I'll just tape it up until I test you know where the power is and then I'll make the final connection [Music] gonna start this up real quick check the voltage on each winding as well as the voltage between the blacks which should be 240 and the whites which should be close to zero help all right so the good news is the Stata works fine you know I get hundred twenty volts on this set of windings 120 on that but I'm not getting what I expected between the black wires I'm only getting a hundred and twenty volts I believe and when I test from different windings white to black 120 volts white to black 120 volts so I'm gonna have to read up on this a bit I'm still a little hesitant to connect this white to white because then essentially I'm going to be bridging these two state of wires and if I do it wrong we're gonna have a problem all right I didn't really get what I was expecting to get when measuring but when thinking about it I guess it makes sense now because these two coils are isolated there's no connection between them and if you think about it if you have say two batteries right you connect the positive on one battery to the negative on the other and then you get three volts on either end and without that connection you're not going to get three volts and the story so I went ahead and connected the white wires just through a fuse okay something that was horribly wrong but I don't think it will really the only thing you could do that'll really mess things up is to connect one coil the black wire to the white which would be a dead short going between coils it's either going to be in series or parallel and neither one should result in a meltdown but I guess we'll find out [Music] okay good that was much better so creating that connection between the two coils in series we now get a 240 volts here on the black wires and zero between the white which is perfect and of course we get 120 120 so that's what I was expecting the see I'm just going to get this back to the garage we'll hook this up permanently get the cover on get the tank on and bring it back out for a load test so I took another look at the parts diagram and there is no heat shield here between the stator and the muffler so that could explain a few things because I've picked up three of these generators and two of the three had bad Staters so you know the Subaru was set up is exactly the same as the ATU 5000 which I have one over here and this one you can see the heat shield here it both thought on the back and on the top of the engine right there so you know I've been measuring and I think this heat shield for the HU 5000 will fit just fine on this other generator so you know this is a later revision of this and I have a feeling they realized they made a mistake here so I'm gonna get that part ordered and throw that on so heat shield arrived today I'm gonna try to install it and see if it's compatible with this generator [Music] okay so I bolted on fine it was a bit tight but it all worked out you know the only reservation I have about it is the fact that this heat shield is touching the muffler kind of on this side but it has a small air gap over on this side so ideally to be an air gap the whole way but it is what it is it's better than nothing okay I got to perform hopefully the final test here after I start it when I check the voltage between the two huts on each leg should be 240 and of course I'll check each leg make sure it's 120 assuming it all tests good I'm just gonna put a 3,000 watt load on and make sure that the the engine can keep up [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Music] [Music] okay good the engine sounds good and the power output is also good it was running a bit slow so I did turn up the governor screw just a little bit and once I made that adjustment it was at about sixty one and a half Hertz under no-load and under a three thousand watt load it was holding at a little about 59 Hertz so that's good and you know this generator is is pretty much all set now he took a machine that was not making any power put a new head on it and it's working quite well also this heat shield is doing a good job the stator is nice and cool and of course the heat shield I can't even touch it it's so hot so I'm glad I added that and hopefully this stator will last a bit longer than the last one anyway I hope this video helps someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 95,373

Rating: 4.836431 out of 5

Keywords: 310227016, 310227059, DPE, EX30, Generator Head Generator, HU40500, HU40500G, HU5000, How To, Husky Generator, Install New Powerhead, Install Rotor, Install Stator, Installation, Model HU40500G, New Stator and Rotor, No Power No Power Output, Powerhead, Rotor, Small Engine, Stator, Subaru, Troubleshooting, How to Remove a Generator Stator and Rotor

Id: bvjjrhhiOZo

Length: 33min 2sec (1982 seconds)

Published: Thu May 21 2020