Ford Differential Carnage - Driveline Noise Located

yeah that's probably not good all right can i do this without bumping my head oh yeah howdy folks welcome back today's project is a 2010 ford f-250 it's here because it has a winding noise somewhere in the drivetrain the wine is speed dependent so it changes frequency as you drive faster i tried to capture that sound on the camera and it just it didn't work it just sounds like normal normal background noise anyway pretty simple diagnosis i pulled the check plug out of the rear axle the magnet's covered with metal and the oil was real frothy and kind of brown and nasty looking anyway i've gone ahead and pulled the cover off just so i can give this guy kind of a halfway estimate of what i think is wrong and what it's going to cost to fix it i believe that the problem is the pinion bearings just a quick glance i think that the ring and pinion is going to be okay we're going to check that a little bit closer but we probably can't make a real solid determination on that until we get the pinion bearings fixed anyway let's get to it this is i believe a ford sterling 10.5 axle truck's got about 100 just over 100 000 miles so not a lot of miles on it this is a locking differential i believe anyway we're gonna get it torn apart and see if we can figure out definitively what's wrong with it what parts we can reuse what parts we need to replace really oh man that sucks that's an original stanley combo cast dead blow ball being hammer that's cracked there too that's a bummer these are really good hammers i feel like we had a dead blow version of this break on a video a long time ago we're gonna pull this whole differential carrier assembly out but before we do that i want to check the backlash the spec is eight to twelve thousands and it's showing about ten so that's right in the middle it's right where it should be there's an electrical connector up here for the diff lock i hope it comes apart yes there we go i thought they'd be tighter than that so so so [Applause] [Applause] yep that figures so so hey there it is jeepers [Music] oh yeah yeah that's pretty bad oh yeah big old chunk out of the race cool yeah she's in pretty bad shape folks pretty bad shape that's good though means we found we found the smoking gun all right folks time for a survey of the damage spoiler alert there's a lot of it this is the glitter i wiped off the fill plug when i pulled it out there was a lot of metal in the oil a lot of metal well starting with the pinion the outer bearing is junk you guys saw the outer race it's got a big chunk out of it the inner race and the rollers are no better the inner bearing is is in better condition but it's still not great it needs to be replaced as well the actual pinion gear itself in my opinion looks fine the shaft is fine that part could be reused on the differential carrier the left side bearing it's pretty rough the surfaces are pitted it doesn't sound great when you roll it not catastrophic but definitely needs to be replaced on the right side the damage is significantly worse so we've got some severe pitting here that bearing is is badly damaged the real problem though is on the outside of this bearing race i don't know how well it's going to show up on the camera but you see that streaking that means that the bearing has been spinning in the axle housing so if we look at the bearing cap here again it probably won't show up very well on the camera but there's a distinct you know shiny part and then a dull part that's where the the bearing race is actually worn into the bearing cap that is that is not good there's no easy way to fix that again on the shim here this is the shim that fits up against this race you can see galling right here that's where the the outer race has been spinning against this shim and it's chewed it up pretty good so that is a problem a major problem as far as the gears go again i think the the ring gear is serviceable the teeth look fine to me the tooth wear pattern looks fine i think we can reuse that there is some damage to the spider gears though i don't know if i can show it to you but the spider gears are pitted their surface looks about like this bearing race surface again i don't know if that would really hurt anything i imagine we could reuse all the gears ideally we would need to replace at least the spider gears though in order to get this thing back to 100 percent just a quick demonstration of what i'm talking about i've got the bearing caps reinstalled they're torqued up let's see how i can move this race so that's a little bit loose that one's probably not not too bad huh where were we at two phone calls and a parts delivery place is a mad house today the left side bearing she's pretty loose so i can actually rotate it pretty easily and it will actually slide right out so i'm not an expert about rear axles by any means but uh i don't think that's i don't think that's good now there's no preload on these bearings so maybe it's not a fair test but if you push this bearing all the way in up to the shoulder where the wear is it tightens right up so in my opinion that's a problem it's a pretty big problem a couple of options i guess we could take the cap off we could get our little center punch in there we could do our mill right routine and just you know put a bunch of little peen marks in the in the bearing journals see if we could tighten it up that way we could spray it down with some bearing retainer loctite 608 or whatever whatever we want to use there some differential carriers actually call for that as part of the the bearing installation procedure to use a bearing retainer now if we really wanted to fix this right and this was the last ford 10.5 inch axle left on planet earth we could take the cap off grind the bottom faces of the cap to move that cap forward and then line bore this journal back to the correct diameter that can be done let me know what you guys think i don't know i suppose i'll get people telling me well i always get people on both sides of the fence you know i'll get a guy that says oh i've rebuilt 7 000 rear axles and they're all like that put it back together it'll be fine well the right side wheel seal was leaking you can see it inside the inside the brake rotor so i went ahead and pulled the hub off the wheel bearings are okay at least on the right side so evidently whatever metal was in the oil did not make it out to the to the wheel bearings to the hubs so that's good news so we'll need a wheel seal at least for the right side but the wheel bearings themselves are fine all right folks here's how it's shaping up to fix this axle at a minimum we need both pinion bearings a pinion seal and a pinion nut a new crush sleeve and the pinion bearing shim kit we also need both differential carrier bearings the carrier bearing shim kit and i believe we need to replace both of these thick outer shims because with that galling there's no way that that's an even surface we'll also need at least one wheel seal probably just go ahead and do both sides that's about 700 worth of parts if we want to replace the ring and pinion and the spider gears you can basically just double that that still leaves us with the issue of the bearing races being loose in the axle housing that's come come up with a plan to fix that like i said there's a couple options but none of them are really very good alternatively for about 500 i can buy a complete used axle from a junkyard that's known to be good good in my opinion that's that's the only way to go there's just you know these axles are not rare or expensive ford made tons of these trucks they rusted out like crazy so junkyards are full of pretty good drivetrain components for them so i say we just drop that whole axle out of there and put a put a used one in its place and forget about it so we're going to reuse all the brake parts it's got basically brand new brakes on it new rotors this is a new caliper on this side come on i don't know how it is where you guys live but around here junkyards are pretty reluctant to sell any kind of brake parts i don't know if it's a liability thing or what the what the deal is but they don't like selling them i had a guy with an old like an old grain truck of some kind and he couldn't buy new brake drums for it and the junkyard wouldn't sell them to him so i ended up negotiating with them and they they finally sold them to me but they just marked it on the invoices as scrap metal basically i didn't want to put the word break anywhere on it and usually junk yards you know they could care less about liability they got all kinds of warnings and waivers and stuff on all their paperwork and the place i deal with the most they'll even sell used batteries use coolant you name it it's for sale well this side's dry so that's good all right we gotta get that parking brake shoes off i think in order to pull that hub because it's got a two-piece seal and it's it's gonna be a pain to get that off yeah of course why would that actually work got it nice forward to take us a fancy socket and you got to kind of push in to disengage the ratcheting part of the nut so you can actually loosen it [Music] and the left-hand side is left-hand thread i forgot about that part so now be careful not to destroy your speed sensor which is on the front side of the hub there it is ah so foreign so [Applause] so there we go wow actually got one out of four out without breaking it look at that buy a lottery ticket people that never happens oh man i want to trim that back so the old trick is that you try to tighten it first and then the nut will hopefully move but the hoe or the line will stay look at that well we've got to buy a second lottery ticket of course i'm probably blocking the entire shot cool i wonder if that guy will come out of there what size do we suppose that is that'll work whatever it is do i recall saying at some point that i thought the vent was plugged the uh the vent is definitely plugged she's plugged up rock solid so that's probably why we have a leaking wheel seal over there [Applause] so [Music] well pretty sure that's the end of that plastic drain pan second one this week now that stupid sway bar is going to kill us [Applause] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] hmm if i could just hold that some way [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] oh well i don't see any problems with this diff backlash seems good preload is pretty light but they are used bearings that's to be expected so i want to get the cover glued on yet tonight give the silicone a chance to set up then tomorrow we can hopefully wrap this up foreign [Applause] [Music] well i decided to go ahead and pull the hubs off of our donor axle the studs are all beat up and then the dust shields are rotted out pretty well mangled so we'll just reuse the ones we've got they're in a lot better shape they're less rusty the tone ring is less rusty and on the donor axle the wheel studs are all beat up i don't want to swap out 16 wheel studs so we're just going to reuse these the bearings are fine it'll be fine so drop in our inner bearing lube it up like so wipe that off because we don't want it to affect our seal sealing now we're going to put a little dab of grease maybe if there's anything in here that doesn't have a bunch of trash in it now we have this oil slinger ring goes on top of the bearing and then a new national wheel seal it does come with a bead of silicone or something to seal it but i still like to put a little bit of loctite 515 on the 515 is great because it'll set up as a sealant but until it does it kind of acts like a lube help this bearing slide in a little bit easier now these seals are a mother to get installed so we've got a seal driver it's going to rest right on this outer lip i don't have the for real national installation tool should probably get one i guess boy these things are tight they're a pain to get out too actually i found the best way to get them out is to knock this tone ring off and then you can come underneath that lip and drive them off with a scraper or screwdriver or something if you try prying on them all you do is destroy that oil slinger ring ask me how i know okay let's not get greedy now going to make sure that our slinger ring is still centered up looks good the seal will hold it in place while we go to install the hub and then normally on these two-piece seals you need to lubricate the inside so it'll slip over the the spindle so if you're not familiar this is a two-piece seal so that the inside is going to fit snugly over the spindle and it's going to stay stationary and the outside gets driven into the hub it stays stationary and the seal rotates inside of itself anyway the national seals come with grease on the inside so we don't have to worry about that obviously i've already installed the parking brake shoes in hindsight we could have left the parking brake shoes on at the time i was thinking we're gonna have to pull the cable off but didn't end up being necessary i'm going to put a little bit of oil in the hub one of the questions i get with surprising frequency on these floating hubs there's a tab inside that nut needs to line up with the slot in the axle anyway i get a lot of questions about why we don't pack these bearings with grease we're supposed to tighten this to i think like 70 newton meters or something like that while spinning the hub this part's not super critical we're just making sure everything gets seated there we go now we're going to back it off 90 degrees like so and then the final step we'll torque that bearing to 15 newton meters you do have to have a torque wrench that can go counterclockwise which the split beam style wrenches that i usually are typically used cannot do all right that's it so the nut has a spring-loaded ratchet inside that's supposed to keep it from ever coming loose so it's basically self-locking and the manual just says the bearings are supposed to be set for zero lash so that's the setup anyway back to the oil or the grease rather so on these modern floating axles the bearings are lubricated by the same oil as the gears in the center section so when the axle is in motion the oil is going to travel it's going to get splashed up and it's going to travel through this axle tube and it will fill up the hub and keep it constantly full of oil now on the old school stuff like that military truck we worked on different philosophy they actually have a seal between the axle tube and the hub and the bearings are packed in grease so i'm not sure why they did it that way i believe the problem was back in the day they didn't have you know good quality ep additives for the gear oil like what we have today and in order to get the full capacity out of the wheel bearings they had to use grease instead of oil now i'm not really sure why because there's bearings inside the the differential and it runs in oil but that's my only theory better it was just something that was that was done so it was easier to field service the bearings i don't know [Music] come on little buddy there we go so the axle shafts are two different lengths and this side the left side should be the longer of the two there's an o-ring on the inside here that seals the axle which is kind of cool it doesn't have a gasket at all install these bolts with some new loctite and we're missing one all right i'll have to find that bolt and then look up a torque spec for those book says 37 foot pounds that does not seem very tight and a crisscross pattern yeah we got them tighter than that with the impact okay break time all right folks break time is over [Applause] yeehaw that's the worst plugged vent i've ever seen i don't know which came first the chicken or the egg here did the the water get in the oil and then cause rust on the inside of the vent or did the vent get plugged and then blow the seal out and then allow water in i have no idea all right i've got the brake lines installed just need this breather to hold everything together we're just about done with this job and i trimmed off the hose and the hose is clear so that should be fine all right folks i think we are finally done underneath this pig i've got to do the final torque on the u-bolts with it down at ride height they get torqued to 195 foot-pounds and then i've got to bleed the brakes i can probably also do that down at ride height enough double entendres if you're done setting the county on fire can you help me do that no i accidentally started a forest fire well it's more like a cornfield fire oh well i don't know if i've shown this off enough i look like i look like i started a forest fire have i shown this off a kindly viewer sent this to me kind someone that's trying to steal my job well it's the same as the homemade one i had but this one's all fancy and it's got a magnet on it a magnet so we're going to use it to bleed the brakes today takes three to blue brakes doesn't it pop all right give me a minute get set up all right lady give her a couple pumps please a couple more where's all the air one more okay pump it again push down let up that's weird should i got a lot more air than that push down let up i guess we're done well my ex wanted to help me bleed blake brakes but uh he ended up falling out of the truck so good thing we weren't in the air all right thanks for your help you're welcome well this is how i was always taught to fill the hubs it's just to tip the axle a little bit doesn't take much so now the fluid will run from the center out to the hub fill it up now probably if you lubricate the bearings pretty good before you put the hubs together you'd be fine as soon as you take it out on the road it'll fill the hubs up that's it let's go for a ride oh yeah it's already way better way better fantastic it's a pretty nice setup really 113 000 miles i think those six two gas engines are pretty good i haven't heard about a lot of problems with them four wheel drive with the locking differential uh supposedly this truck came from canada but it's really not that rusty yeah i like it all right folks i've tightened the u-bolts to the factory spec 195 foot-pounds i topped off the fluid i don't see any leaks or anything weird i think it's time to set this one free pretty straightforward nuts and bolts kind of job it's a fair amount of work though to replace an entire axle i couldn't find a book time but i've probably got six plus hours into this it would have been less but when you're dealing with junkyard parts you just never know what you're going to get if that axle had been a little bit less mangled and you know we could have reused the dust shields and not had to pull the hubs off it would have saved me probably two maybe three hours worth of work going through those hubs and replacing the wheel seals and all that stuff but that's how the cookie crumbles no big deal now he's got new wheel seals don't have to worry about that we've checked the bearings we know that they're good plus he gets to use his original hubs which are in in my opinion in better condition so yeah all's well it ends well i guess thanks for watching and i'll see you next time this video should come out sometime after thanksgiving so i hope everybody had a good thanksgiving holiday well this job's pretty hard on tools that's an original stanley combo cast dead blow ball peen hammer it's probably older than me then we lost this guy that's a gearwrench pinless swivel impact socket which ain't gonna work like that things are junk you drop one brake caliper on them and they're broken hello family hello i was just going to show the people some carnage check out this u-joint oh that does not look good strap's not tight she's got some problems i'd say what are we up to can you say hi i do oh hi folks good talk hi folks thanks for watching everybody

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 227,799

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Id: 2pVosOYc2Kg

Length: 45min 3sec (2703 seconds)

Published: Sat Dec 04 2021