Ford Ranger Transmission Rebuild - the Complete Guide No One Asked for - Part 2

howdy folks and unfortunately welcome to part two of the transmission rebuild i know you guys voted for one long video that was my intention but i'm sorry it just didn't work out at the time i posted the poll i had finished rebuilding the transmission but i hadn't tried to install it and i ran into some parts issues and shockingly it's not easy to get parts for a 1986 ford ranger so they kind of boxed me in the video in its entirety is i think about 80 minutes long and to render that would take my computer about five hours and then to upload would take probably between 15 and 20 hours with our donkey powered internet so yeah i would have missed my normal upload schedule so i just decided to chop it up into two parts here's part two it's gonna be pretty long but i think you guys will like it we're gonna get the transmission back together put it back in the truck and cross our fingers it's gonna work well as per usual just enough time has passed that i've completely forgotten how this transmission goes together but i think we have all the parts we need or most of the parts we need i bought a complete bearing set a gasket set and new nuts for the counter shaft and the output shaft we also have the input shaft and output shaft seals and the little roller bearing between the input shaft and the output shaft all the parts are clean or clean-ish the gasket surfaces have been prepped we've got a lot of things to put back together this is the main case it had a broken bolt here for the pen i drilled that out otherwise it's in good shape the bearing journals are good it's ready to use this is a bottom loader transmission so all the gears and stuff get loaded through this big opening in the bottom it's the opposite of a top loader if you hadn't figured that out so we're going to start with first gear it has an inner race and a bearing already installed then we need a synchro ring [Music] next up is the sliding clutch followed by another synchro ring and then second gear now we can slide the main shaft through that whole assembly i've got a mark on it somewhere maybe yeah there it is i want to line that up with my sliding clutch because it's the splines are pretty tricky on that thing there we go so the big chamfer on the sliding clutch goes towards the rear if you get this in backwards you'll end up with a big gap between second gear and the synchro so you can't really put it together backwards all right next up is third gear then the synchro ring and then the inner part of the sliding clutch this guy here with the grooves on it has to go towards third gear like so now the outer part of the sliding clutch see it has three spots one two three here where it's been relieved those three spots have to fit over these little spring tabs [Music] there we go all right we got to install a snap ring on the end here perfect okay so that's kind of pretty well captured now let's see what's next all right the counter shaft next i've already pressed new bearings on it all right we've got our new input shaft bearing installed that was the one that was bad we'll also put a new roller bearing on the inside and a synchro ring on the outside this should go together i don't know what was so hard about getting it apart something i was doing wrong there yeah that's the problem i can't get the freaking counter shaft down in there once i do that this is a crap design really is why would they make that that way yeah once the input shaft well let's see yeah because you can't pull the main shaft back any further well maybe you can oh hold on yeah it still won't go look at that well there we go okay [Applause] all right i've installed the two shift rails for the main main box we're going to slip in this shim for the counter shaft and then install the retainer should have done that before i installed the shift rails [Applause] all right folks i decided to call it quits last night things were not going well it turns out that i could not rebuild a transmission on three hours of sleep so we're gonna regroup this morning probably back up a little bit maybe undo a few things we did yesterday and see if we can get this thing sorted out i don't like the way this input shaft bearing fits the snap ring should be flush up against the case and then [Music] we're going to install this bearing retaining retainer housing along with a shim and the shim that we need should be i mean it should be the same as the old shim the bearings are going to be you know within a few tenths of each other typically so something is wrong i think what's wrong is that the see if i can do this without losing the whole thing i think this bearing is not installed far enough on the main shaft so we need to peel this reverse gear and retainer back off and yeah try to fix that well just to clarify i think the problem is that this bearing right here this double angular contact bearing on the output shaft is not pushed in all the way so it's not squeezing this main shaft gear set together and that's causing problems causing the thing to bind up the the synchros are basically locking the thing up all right here's what i'm thinking a couple of these adapters off my tire balancer and then this thing i believe they call it a daisy wheel off my arbor press and we'll slip on the old nut now the problem is i've got no way to hold that shaft that's the idea anyway [Music] well that seems to have worked good deal yeah we're right up against the case now cool so now we're supposed to measure from the bearing to the case with the depth mic and it is currently one 68. so 0.168 168 thousandths before the closest i could get it was was 203 so we've moved it we moved it back what 35 thousandths a little more than that now the depth of our cover with the shim is exactly the same so we're good you're supposed to have between zero and four thousands clearance between this shim and the face of the bearing and then when we put the gasket on there's gonna end up being a little bit more of a gap but yeah i believe we're perfect now so that's good that's the thing that that was freaking me out last night i couldn't get that measurement to come out i was just too tired so cool we can i believe we can now install this cover and then we'll set the clearance on the counter shaft all right we need to install the thicker of the two spacers in front of the front race and then i've already installed a new front seal and we've got some tack on our gasket all right let's see how did it go i hope the studs go out here that torque spec on these bolts is 22 to 30 foot pounds 29 to 40 newton meters so usually in my mind when they have that large of a torque range it means nobody really cares just tighten them up but don't tell the comment section that okay the studs we'll worry about that when we put the bell housing on so we should have the end play in our input shaft approximately equal to the thickness of the gasket looks pretty close i don't know why they want that much in play you know 18 000 since the thickness of the gasket that seems like a lot but that's what they say to do usually has something to do with thermal expansion or some other you know unseen force anyway we're done on the front now we're supposed to stand it up on its nose and work on the back all right to set up the counter shaft bearings we're going to make sure this race is fully seated and then everything turns freely then we're going to use this shim this is a selective shim which means that there's multiple different thicknesses available of course we only have the one that came out of it but like i said it's normally the bearing tolerances are so close that it's normally not a problem to reuse the spacers so what we're supposed to do is put a straight edge across the top and then try to spin i guess we're supposed to try to spin the shim underneath the straight edge and if it rotates freely we put in the next size thicker shim but this one actually has essentially zero gap so that's what it's supposed to have it's supposed to be between zero and two thousands i believe that's two thousands of preload so we're right on the money which means we can now install the retainers we're good to go back here [Applause] so we'll install these flat head cap screws with a little bit of loctite because it would be a bad day if one of these backed out let's get torqued to 11 to 16 foot pounds which isn't very much okay now there's a torque spec for that castle nut on the reverse gear here but it's kind of irrelevant because we have to line up the hole for the cotter pin got that installed to aircraft nasa mill spec [Music] before i get a ton of comments i don't like to use brass punches when i'm putting things with bearings back together because brass punches are constantly shedding little pieces of brass and they get wedged everywhere and they make a mess that that inner race is way harder than the punch it won't hurt it at all but what will hurt it is that i put that reverse idler on backwards so let me flip that around that's better now the overdrive synchro so again the gap in the teeth corresponds to the little key right here yeah that one i think will heat up just to press a long way [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] all right now we're supposed to install this little spacer and then the roller bearing and then this is the overdrive gear and the company that i bought these parts from they said that these transmissions they kind of have a reputation for the overdrive gear this really thin surface here digging into the thrust bearing surface of the synchronizer and it causes excessive end play but this one looks like it's in perfect shape so i'm not going to worry about it there is an update kit you can buy that has a different i don't know it has a different style bearing or something but the parts were not available when i ordered these so even if we wanted to do that we can't but ours are in good shape so we should be fine and then okay so that completes our reverse arrangement uh oh uh oh folks we got a problem here you see this our aircraft spec cotter pin hits that gear there we go see these pet ants in the comment section almost got me in trouble all right now we have this tiny little ball and its purpose is to keep the thrust washer from turning there we go and now a couple of bearings like so i think we'll also heat those up make them easier to fit on [Applause] what's the problem there [Music] must be a burr on that one cool i don't know why they have snap ring grooves in them there's no snap rings well i gained nothing by installing these shift rails just left them out all right these little pins they get installed in holes that are drilled between the two shift rails and that's an interlock so the rail has a little groove like this and you have to have at least one groove open for the other rail to shift that way you can't shift more than one rail at the same time it's just a safety safety precaution but they're kind of a kind of tricky to get installed i'm not to peel this thing out of here oh see it's already working the interlock i mean i'll show you that interlock so basically i can't move both of them at the same time i can only move one kind of a cool system anyway tighten that back up now these springs are supposed to go with the tapered end towards the ball all right the counter shaft nut gets torqued to 120 foot pounds come on baby now the big one on the main shaft i'm not sure what we're going to do there yet well the torque nazis are going to hate me but we're just going to go by feel i don't have any good way to torque that nut the spec is 185 foot pounds i want to say that's good enough for me [Applause] so there we go simple so simple except i got that thing on the wrong side all right back off [Applause] there sample nothing to it so the first and second third and fourth detents just have bolts that bottom out but the reverse and fifth gear detent has a set screw you're supposed to install it to a depth of 0.24 inches so we're a little too deep right now close enough now we're supposed to fill that hole up with our tv silicone so that'll lock it in place and keep it from corroding so all right guys i think we can button it up it shifts into every gear everything turns freely i think we're good to go oh i'll use some new bolts uh one of the things people do with these bottom loader transmissions is they'll they'll upgrade to a stiffer pan a lot of times they're made out of a thick aluminum plate and it helps keep the the transmission case from spreading i have somewhat limited limited experience on manual transmissions in cars but i remember like on the old 5-0 mustangs i think that was a tremec t5 transmission in those and when you started putting out a lot of power the helical gears inside the transmission because of the angle of the teeth it would spread the case this way and that basically limited the amount of power you could put down with one of those cars so [Music] huh bummer i like that ratchet [Applause] all right folks we made it this thing is ready to go back in the truck [Music] [Music] well that's a pretty handy tow rig forklift's feeling jealous don't worry someday we'll fix it and it can go home come on come on pup hey you can do it come on maxwell you want to tell everybody why you're scared max hates wind i don't know why it freaks him out and that's bad news because it's windy here all the time isn't it pup yep so you just get to be super sad all the time [Applause] all right folks i've been toiling away behind the scenes i think we're finally ready to install this transmission we did get a transmission jack upgrade this is a snap-on tj-100 i picked it up used off of facebook marketplace well gently used for for way too much money the seller told me that the whole ram assembly's already been replaced once before because it was leaking and it's leaking again so should fit in just fine around here it's a massive improvement over my chaicom special over here although strangely this one's never leaked at all can't say that much about the lathe anyway on to the truck i went poking where i shouldn't have gone poking the exhaust y-pipe was kind of crumbling over here on the right-hand side and i figured there's never going to be a better time to fix that so i pulled it off that went about as well as you might imagine so i was able to get three out of the four bolts out with some help from my friends oxygen and acetylene then the fourth one just broke right off so i had to drill it out but i think we can save the threads or i have saved the threads so this flange clamp over here on the right side is just rotted out there's nothing left of it so my thought was i could pull this y pipe out and it would make it a lot easier to install the transmission because it's almost impossible to get the bell housing past that left side pipe but of course that opened a whole can of worms the whole thing's pretty rusty and the tailpipe actually just fell completely off it's laying over here oh that's in pretty rough shape but the good news is the donor truck has a good exhaust so we're going to use the y-pipe off the donor truck well we're going to use pretty much the whole exhaust off the donor truck it's in a lot better shape both clamps are good it's quite a bit less rusty unfortunately the o2 sensor was broken and i tried to remove the o2 sensor from the old y-pipe and it just took all the threads with it so we need a new o2 sensor which it's not easy to find these old three wire sensors i ordered one hopefully it'll be here this afternoon and then the catalytic converter was missing off of the donor truck and somebody somebody put together this little gem i don't know that much about welding but i know quality work when i see it that is very special i'm guessing what they did is they they chopped the converter off because it was plugged and they tried to scab this together with the y-pipe still installed on the truck so they were just kind of trying to reach over from the top and weld that blind anyway i formicated this guy here a little slip over so that should work a little bit better all right we got to make sure our spacer plate is in place and no i'm not going to replace the clutch or the rear main seal yes i know that's wrong then i should always replace the clutch in the rear main seal i'm sure you'll tell me about that in the comments so all right guys transmission is in it's bolted up got the spacer plate in there don't want to forget that got the y pipe back up with some new bolts that was definitely the way to go pulling that y pipe was very painful but it makes putting the transmission back in so much easier i'm not actually sure you're you're it's even possible to get the transmission back together with that exhaust in place it's just too close to the to the firewall up there anyway we're in the home stretch now we need the transfer case both drive shafts both shifters the rest of the exhaust got to put that o2 sensor in uh reinstall the starter some of the wiring there's the speedo cable and then we're gonna have to bleed the slave cylinder at some point that's always fun yeah i'll bring you guys back when it's done got the transfer case installed this is where the snap-on transmission jack really shines we don't have to have our sketchy jenga blocks anymore it's got these adjustable arms so they slide in and out up and down and they also can be adjusted to three different angles i've never seen another transmission jack quite like it i mean i know you can buy different adapters and you know rear axle adapters fuel tank adapters but this thing's actually pretty universal i like it i think that's it for the bottom side got our new o2 sensor transmissions full of oil drive shafts are in the exhaust it's not pretty but i think it'll work so we've got i don't know how many different joints in this thing it's almost comical one two three four five six seven eight that should be enough anyway that's the muffler from the original exhaust system pretty much everything else is from the donor truck so the donor truck had the old cherry bomb and uh yeah i think my glass pack days are over plus it doesn't really work you see how this muffler that the inlet's in the center and the outlets up at the top that's important otherwise you get a dip in the tailpipe and that's what caused this to rust out here so that won't hurt anything i don't think yeah all right guys we finally have the parts we need to finish up the ranger so this cobbled together abortion takes the place of the old catalytic converter so on the 86 it just had a single converter up here in the front but on the 88 it had a dual converter that was kind of built into one unit and somebody's long since deleted that but they saved the old flange off both ends so i was able to buy both converter flange gaskets but they were not easy to find i think these things have been on a shelf somewhere since the reagan administration anyway we'll get that installed and we should be done well folks the exhaust has a little bit of a rumble that it didn't have before i wonder if we still have a bit of a leak but the transmission [Music] is dead quiet so that's good news let's see if it'll go in gear no problem good so we got the slave cylinder bled [Music] [Music] where's fourth [Music] [Music] beautiful [Music] got some noise behind the dash i bet it's the speedo cable [Music] yeah it may take that a while to settle into its happy place well we're doing pretty good the exhaust is definitely louder i'm not sure if it's just because of our converter delete or something's a little bit wonky causing a leak i'll probably run it for a little bit and i'll tighten up those bolts and that speedo cable was pretty annoying wasn't expecting that but the transmission is good [Music] so [Music] that's awesome the shift's smooth no grinding no clashing fantastic oh boy can we fit back here i think we can perfect all right folks there you go rebuilding a mitsubishi fm 145 transmission it's doable but it's not for the faint of heart i gotta say at this point i've gotten to read the comments from the first video got some pretty good feedback most people seem to think that i'm crazy and that i should just toss that transmission and pick up a used one and install it and i can see why they said that it's pretty overwhelming trying to figure out how to get that thing back together the problem is the cheapest used transmission i could find was 750 and it was three hours away from me so the book time on rebuilding the transmission is 15 hours but five of those hours are just removing and installing so the actual rebuild is only 10 hours and the parts that we bought which was all the bearings and all the gaskets that only cost a hundred and sixty dollars so in my shop to remove and install the transmission and rebuild it by the book that would cost about fourteen hundred dollars to remove and install a used transmission would cost well let's say eleven hundred and fifty dollars plus somebody's gotta either drive six hours and get that transmission or we have to get it shipped in by free and freight shipping has gone just gone crazy i wouldn't be surprised if it cost us three or four hundred dollars to get that shipped here so really you end up basically it basically ends up being a wash in my opinion and i feel better rebuilding the one we have because it's only got 80 something thousand miles on it it doesn't have any other problems other than that input shaft bearing you know we know what we have when you put a used part from a junkyard in you know you pays his money and he takes his chances so yeah i guess the big problem is that uh fourteen hundred dollars to rebuild the transmission is if i'm being honest not far off from what i was asking for the whole truck so financially we're we're upside down on this thing from the get-go but we kind of knew that going in and you know sometimes well maybe more often than not i just do things like this because i want to see if i can it's kind of a fun challenge and you know it makes pretty good content for youtube i think i didn't find any other any other videos about rebuilding one of these transmissions of course that's probably because you know they haven't made one for 30 years and they're all in the crusher now but we shouldn't let that stop us anyway thanks guys for watching and yeah i'll see you next time

Channel: Watch Wes Work

Views: 168,737

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Id: E9xZ9Bcc7bg

Length: 48min 34sec (2914 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 14 2021