This here is another viewer's broken gaming PC. And when I say broken, in this case, I mean, well, it kinda, sorta overheats. Well, okay, maybe not kinda, sorta. It actually does blatantly overheat. And according to the owner of this build, it apparently does so right after starting any game at all. That is not good. So here's what he says. "Hey Greg, my name is Andrew. I live around the Tampa/Orlando area and I have been a viewer for a while now and I'm having an issue with my PC. I'm struggling to determine whether there's an issue with my CPU or AIO. My computer starts up, CPU temps are at around 30 to 40 degrees and everything seems normal. As soon as I open up any game, my CPU temps spike to the 100s and then the PC shuts itself down. I have reseated the CPU and reapplied thermal paste. I loosened the cooler, which helped a little bit with temps, but they still spike very high, causing the PC to shut down. I don't have any spare parts to troubleshoot the issue myself. So I was wondering if it would make the cut for "Fix or Flop season 2". Now the specs are an Intel Core i7-10700k. A 16 gigs, of course, of memory in here and RTX 3060 from MSI. Also an MSI MAG series AIO and then an ASRock motherboard. Now at first glance, when reading the email, I thought that his pump was dead. And so I figured this would be just a quick diagnosis, something you guys could see in real time here. What happens when you have a dead pump. Although we have simulated this in a dedicated video already on the channel. But this is a real world case. And as such, I think it's a little more valuable to the average viewer. Reading his email though, it almost seems like it's not a dead pump, because if his temperature is at idle around 30 to 40 C and they don't get any higher than that, I mean, if you have a dead pump, usually these temps just continue to slowly rise into the 80s and 90s, which is never good for idle temps in a desktop like this. And so, because he's not seeing that, at least from what he told me in the email, I'm a little hesitant to just jump right into the dead AIO pump bandwagon. Who knows? The whole point of this video though, is to investigate. We're gonna figure out what exactly it is. Could be maybe just over volting. Maybe it's some setting in the BIOS that he wasn't aware of that he might have changed. Or maybe it is a dead pump, improperly seated AIO. Who knows? Again, we're gonna find out in this video. Stay with me. I'd like to take a moment to talk about Mailgun. It's how modern companies work with email. With it's data-driven approach and easy to use UI, you can reach real customers at scale. Through its powerful email API and intuitive email marketing solutions, Mailgun controls the entire email lifecycle from pre-development through delivery, supporting companies like DHL, Wikipedia, and Microsoft. You'll find useful tools like Send Time Optimization, which automatically tracks and pushes emails to individuals at the times they're most likely to engage with them. Can also create massive reports for large email lists and test and avoid things like spam filters the next time you click send. Mailgun is the most relied upon email platform for growing businesses. And we greatly appreciate their support of this channel. Try today using my link mailgun.com/greg. That's again, mailgun.com/G-R-E-G, which you can also find at the top of this video's description. Hello there. For those who aren't aware, this is "Fix or Flop". We are in season two. So if you're new to this playlist, you need to check out the earlier episodes first. I've been quite surprised by how many different issues we've run into with builds in and around the Orlando, Florida area. Speaking of which, the way this works, if you do live around Orlando, Florida, and you have a broken system, one that either doesn't turn on or, in this case, overheats, something along those lines, and you want a chance for it to be fixed for free, you can reach out via the form link in this video's description. And if you're chosen, then we will attempt to fix your system for free. $0 and 0 cents. All we ask is that you allow us to take on your systems for a few days and film this process. We make money obviously by filming these videos, uploading them to YouTube and elsewhere, monetizing these with baked in ads and external advertisers. We're very thankful for those and that allows us to continue doing what we're doing here. So I get comments like, "Oh, Greg's such a nice guy. He does this for free." I do get paid to do this. And to be fair with all of you and upfront, I get paid a lot more from those advertisers than I would from just like charging the average person to have a system fixed or to have us look at the system. So I'm really grateful that this setup works and that we can create content that most of you seem to enjoy. I really should have focused on my hair just a bit before filming this video. Anyway, I wanna talk a bit about the layout of this system. Because you might have noticed that, well, there's a lot of empty space in here. And that's because the owner, for whatever reason, decided to throw in an ITX motherboard into an ATX case. So yeah, now normally, that wouldn't be too big of an issue. At least from a performance standpoint, you might notice small variances here and there, when it comes to overclocking and the sort. But when it comes to, you know, expandability, PCI slots, obviously, you only get one slot with an ITX board. And the other issue with an ITX motherboard, in this case, is that the CPU socket is a bit high. They might be thinking, "Well, Greg, what the heck does socket location have to do with anything?" Well, here, the AIO is... It's high up. The barb positioning is fairly high, but because the socket positioning is also fairly high, that means that the block is almost in line with barb height. And normally, I wouldn't care about this layout here. It's been blown out of proportion if you ask me. The whole barb up thing, when it comes to front radiator mounting. Usually the socket is positioned significantly lower than the barb height. But here, the pump is so high that I think what might have happened, if in fact the pump is dead, is that some of those air bubbles might have just been trapped here. Because there's no real inclination for them to circulate back to the radiator. Since the top of the radiator is pretty much in line with the top of the pump or at least the pump chamber. So that might have been the reason why this overheats. Then again, we need to actually test. We also, if you ask me, need to cable manage just a bit. Working with an ITX motherboard and a case that conventionally supports ATX motherboards means that cable routing's gonna look a bit strange. I'm still on the fence about whether or not I want to upgrade this viewer's motherboard to an ATX board. We do have an N7Z490, which is an NZXT board, which will look really good in this NZXT case, but I'm not entirely sure it's needed. This motherboard is a, what is it? A Z? Yeah, it's a Z490M. So it should be just a plug and play swap, but I don't know. We'll see. So with all that outta the way, let's get into the troubleshooting process. We need to start first by turning the system on and attempting to replicate what is described by the owner. Again, in this case, it's just overheating. We'll power it on we'll check temps at idle. We'll see if those temperatures change it idle, and then we'll open something stressful. Now, just because I have been down this road a few times before, I'll know pretty much right away when we power this up if the pump is dead. And I'll show you guys how you can check here in a second. So, power on. I'm grabbing the tubes. Fluid is moving. I can, I can feel fluid moving. Now. We've got core temp loaded up here, and you can see just by opening this program, temperatures are already super, super, okay, I'm gonna shut the system down. This is, like, not good. Phew, okay. If you couldn't already tell, those temperatures were reaching very, very dangerous levels. We're talking 106, 108 degrees Celsius, which I believe for the 10700K is above T junction. I don't think T junction is 110 C I think it's 105 C. It might even be a 100 C, but anyway, those temperatures were not good. And all we did was open up Core Temp, which is a program he already had on his desktop. He said he was looking at temperatures and apparently he was monitoring it with that software, which is a fine one. So I went ahead and opened that one up too, just so I could see what his idle temps were like. And they weren't good. So I don't think the 30 to 40 degree Celsius idle temperature thing he was telling us about in the email is accurate. I think it's much worse than he's making it out to be there. So, you know, because I feel fluid moving here. I feel like the pump is on. Maybe his pump is not on. Maybe I'm just feeling the vibration of like the fans, because there's a lot of heat pent up right here over the AIO. Maybe, maybe I was wrong about the pump being on. I'm kinda doubting myself now, because I feel like either one of two things is happening at this point, either he hasn't mounted the block correctly, which means it's not actually doing a good enough job pulling heat away from the chip or the pump is running so low that it's not getting rid of heat quick enough. So I'm gonna take my flashlight to it. I'm gonna see if I can look through the top here, through this grill and see if there's a noticeable gap between the IHS and the cold plate. Now, this is probably impossible to see on camera. I'm trying my best here to get it to focus through the grill, but I can see that there is at least some contact with the IHS. I'm not sure about mounting pressure. I'll be sure to check the standoffs and the screws used to mount the block. I'll make sure those are good and tight. I imagine they are though. I can see thermal paste was used. I mean, all around, pretty confused here. If, I don't wanna turn the system back on, I mean, it's just gonna overheat again. I'm going to remove the block and I'm gonna inspect it. Maybe he didn't pull off the little cover you're supposed to pull off of the cold plate before installing the block. Who knows? Let's see. Yeah. You know what? I can turn these screws quite a bit more. Yeah. Maybe this just wasn't mounted all the way. Yeah. These have a good, like, full rotation, maybe two full rotations where-- Wow. This one really, I could really turn that one. You know, that might be it. That like, it literally might be that simple. I kind of want to turn it on again and just see what happens. And yep, fluid is definitely churning. I don't know why I doubted myself a bit earlier. This is a fully working pump here without a doubt. But nope, core temps are continuing to rise. So you can see individual cores are hitting a 100 degrees Celsius or higher. This is again, not safe to keep on. We're gonna turn it off. Now back into his bios where his CPU isn't really under any load at all, where it's 62 degrees C and it does seem to be fairly stable. So at this point, I'm comfortable leaving the system on. We're just not gonna go into the operating system anymore. This is looking more and more like an improperly mounted AIO. Now, the reason I say this is twofold. First off, you can see chassis fan one. This is actually where the AIO is connected to the motherboard. This RPM here is 3,700 or so. This is pretty normal for an ASA textile pump, running at full blast, which is what I usually do. Just run it at full blast, unless it's too loud and you can turn it down a bit from there. Some folks like to have these pumps scale, kind of like, speed up and slow it down, depending on the load of the system. I don't recommend doing that in my experience. It's better just to have the pump running at a constant RPM the entire time, regardless of load. So this looks normal here, and that means that the pump is, again, not dead, which I already confirmed earlier, but still. The other thing I wanna show you is CPU voltage. So there is nothing in this chart indicating to me that this is abnormal. I will do a bit more of a deep dive into this. I'll check, you know, advanced settings. We'll make sure that he's not like running a crazy offset or anything, but at least at idle, or somewhat idle here in the BIOS, 1.0 volts is perfectly fine. Under load, I wouldn't expect this to go above maybe 1.2 ish volts. Again, depends on the offset. And it depends on like what you've set in the BIOS as, like, your max frequency, et cetera. But at this point, this doesn't yeah, yeah. There there's really nothing indicating that it's a software setting causing the system to overheat. And yeah, this entire BIOS is pretty much vanilla, it's stock. He hasn't tweaked anything, which I'm, I mean, yeah, it just rules out one more potential variable here. I'm really hoping we don't have to resort to like reducing frequency or voltage or anything. I mean, we could try undervolting. I just don't think that that's something that should be necessary for a CPU running at stock, in a system with four fans and a 240 mil AIO. So what I'm gonna do is remove the block myself and just check, you know, we'll look at like the thermal paste application. We'll see if it seems like it had, you know, proper mounting pressure, because obviously it needs enough pressure to fully conduct the heat or as much as it can anyway. So yeah, let's do that now. Oh, okay. I just realized that these MS AIO's are a bit special, so they don't have the pumps in the blocks. They actually have the pumps in the radiators, which kinda changes things, kinda doesn't. It more or less kind of, it takes away from the statement I made earlier about the block's position. That is significantly less relevant now because the, again, the pump is over here in the radiator, but, okay, interesting. So we're still gonna remove the block. We're still gonna see what's underneath. We're gonna check mounting pressure. Man, I'm really hoping this isn't the CPU. That would be really weird. I mean, it has happened before. I have seen it before, personally, where CPU just runs extremely hot for really no reason. There might be an issue under the IHS. But as far as I know, these chips are soldered. The diodes are soldered to the IHS. So it's not something we could deal in and fix ourselves. Or at least it's not something I'm willing to do here in the studio with someone else's hardware. So yeah, I'm hoping we don't need to replace the chip. That will be the next thing we do if this doesn't fix it. All right, let's pull this up. I mean, it does look, it does look like it's mounted correctly. I'm gonna pull these little black tabs out just to give it more of a chance to squish itself against the IHS. I don't really recommend doing this because all that's gonna happen is the back plate's gonna fall through. But yeah, we'll check that. We'll also replace this thermal compound. Though I doubt that is the issue here. It does need to be replaced since we just pulled it up. And back in the operating system. Yeah. Temperatures are still absolute garbage. And actually T junction is 115 C so that's why we're seeing temps well over a 100 C. I still wouldn't recommend going anywhere near this. Okay. We're gonna shut the system back down. So at this point, I'm becoming increasingly frustrated with this rig. It clearly is not user error because we just remounted the CPU block ourselves and temps are still God awful. You might be thinking well, Greg, maybe it's just the fact that the H510 isn't the best for air flow. Well, to that I say the fans are running at near full speed by the time the system does overheat and we have the left side panel off for Pete's sake. So that's like optimal airflow, right? And the temperatures are still, again, awful. So I'm going to jump straight to the point because I, again, I just wanna be done with this one. It's starting to frustrate me. I've got my own 10600K here that I know works, that I know runs very cool, very quiet, very efficient. We're just gonna keep everything else the same and swap the CPU in. Now, one of two things could happen. Either A, my CPU runs very cool and quiet, which means that it's probably his CPU, which would suck, but at least at that point we would know what to blame. Or B, my CPU also runs very hot, which would then rule out the chip, but then force us to focus more or less either on the cooler or on the motherboard. It is possible that the motherboard is responsible for this. Again, I've seen that as well, but it's, I think more likely that there's an issue with the AIO. Maybe there's some sort of blockage in the fins in the block itself, maybe preventing fluid from flowing again at a high enough rate to get rid of that heat. But I'm just speculating at this point. So let's get my CPU in here. Now I'm looking at the back of his 10700K, everything here looks pretty good with the exception of up top here, there is a bit of thermal paste covering two pads. Not fully. So I think there's still good contact, but this is worth looking into, we can clean this up. I still wanna swap my CPU in first and see if it overheats. If it doesn't, then we'll clean this up and then put his chip back in to see if this fixes it. I know it'd be weird to, you know, for this to be the reason why his CPU is overheating, but I've seen stranger things in this industry. So I'm not gonna rule it out. All right. And is this gonna work? Not entirely sure. I think I'd prefer his cooler or even his motherboard for that matter to be bad. Replacing his CPU, it's just gonna be more expensive on my end. I'll have to buy a replacement just so I have an extra to test with and not really looking forward to that. Let's see. I'm gonna try to jump into the BIOS first. I just wanna check idle temps. Wow. They're still pretty high. Already it's 60 degrees Celsius. Just chilling there. Yep. I don't think it's the CPU folks. And those temps are continuing to climb. This is insane. Heck, my chip is worse than his, what's going on here? So I've had time to ponder this a bit more. I'm trying not to be as frustrated, at least visibly on camera. I know it seems like this is taking only a few minutes, of course, in video, but this is taking several hours, especially with like replacing coolers and everything. It just takes a long time. I am going to replace the motherboard. I have seen enough from this AIO to believe that it is functioning just fine. I just, especially when looking at the fluid imaging camera, the photo's there. I just, I don't really see this as an AIO that's not working. I think this motherboard is just dumping way too much voltage into the CPU. I mean, it was dumping too much voltage into my CPU and I know mine works fine in other boards. And C490 boards have traditionally been known to pump a bit more voltage than they really need. And that's why, at least in part, Intel has kind of gotten the bad rap of being so toasty. But this is like super abnormal. I mean, this is like dangerous. So something I think is clearly wrong with the board. I'm gonna swap it out for the N7Z490, which I have tested. I know this thing works and we're gonna see if we can get temps down just by swapping a motherboard, which, it would be kind of weird. But again, I've seen it before. It's not the first time. All right. And some time has passed. We've got the new motherboard in here. I've also migrated over his M.2 drive as well as his DDR4, his CPUs back in this system, by the way, I took mine out, obviously. It was in the other board, which is right here. We'll look at this a bit closer after this, depending on what happens. All right. Let's fire it up. And first thing we'll do is try to check temperatures. I suppose we'll just hop into the BIOS and check temperatures there first. So let's see how this goes. By the way, I didn't connect any of the RGB. There is some of that, but it's not really pertinent to what we're testing here. Right. And should be booting into the BIOS here. Okay. CPU temperatures. I'm gonna look like such an idiot if this didn't fix the thing. And yes, there we are. I'm a moron. 67 degrees in the BIOS with nothing else going on. That is definitely not normal. Pretty much the same symptom we were seeing before. So swapping the motherboard didn't actually fix it. So the motherboard's fine. Yeah. We gotta swap the AIO now. We need something that actually works. So in light of sticking with the NZXT theme, at this point, might as well go big or go home. So I've got here, the Kraken Z63, this AIO I have used in the past. I know it works. It's a white AIO. So it's gonna look pretty cool with this white case. And we've got the contrasting black motherboard in here from the same company. This isn't an NZXT sponsored video or anything, but I feel like, yeah, sticking with the same brand, just, it looks good here. All right. I'm, yeah. Now I'm really, I'm really getting tired of this build. I'm, you know, I have a lot of patience when it comes to certain things. My wife might tell you otherwise, but when it comes to dealing with, you know, PC stuff, you just have to build up somewhat of a tolerance. I'm hoping that us swapping this fixes it, if it doesn't, I mean, what the heck else could it be? So here we go. Now that is more like it. Oh. Oh my gosh. 37 degrees. I've never been happier to see 37 degrees Celsius in my life. That is just such a relief. Again, still don't know entirely what was wrong with that MSI AIO. I do wanna take a closer look at that. Now that we know that this motherboard is essentially fine, there's nothing wrong with it at all, it was just the cooler, we could turn our attention to the AIO. Maybe take it apart. See if there are any clogs in the fin stack. Maybe there's like an issue with the pump itself, which is again in the radiator. I don't know. Let's find out. The first thing I wanna do is try to remove this pump. I have broken the seal on the other side of this radiator to try to get some of the fluid out, but having a bit of trouble with that. So we're gonna try to pull this out. Maybe that'll allow the fluid to flow out. We've got a little bottle here just in case. I'm not worried about spillage. There's not too much fluid in this, but I did want to take a look at the fluid itself just to see what the condition of it was. Now, what we can do to easily tell if this is functioning or not, is plug this directly into a motherboard that is receiving power. And then if this turns, obviously it's good to go. If it doesn't, it's not. I expect that it is fine though, because, again, it was registering as being, you know, running at like 3,700 RPM in the BIOS. So I don't really think it's the pump itself. I think it's somewhere else in this loop. One thing I will say is that this fluid is kind of disgusting looking. You can see there's, like, some crap in here. It looks like some kind of growth or something. Typically with these like glycol or water based solutions, they'll have some inhibitors for galvanic corrosion, obviously, but they'll also put some sort of biocide or something in to prevent algae growth and all this other crap that you're seeing in here. So if this is what we're seeing in the pump chamber, then we're, well, not really the pump chamber, the pump housing. Then it's gonna look pretty rough on the other side of this as well. And I'm talking specifically about the block. In here are a bunch of small little channels where fluid moves through to absorb heat from the CP. Obviously the more fins, the better, because that increases surface area. So the water can do its job better. But if there's gunk in the, again, the pump housing, there's probably gunk in these fins, and that could definitely disrupt fluid flow. There's only one way to find out and that's to get in here. So again, might have quite a bit of fluid spilling out. I really don't care. I've also noticed that this fluid is a bit red. I'm not sure if that's by design or not. I know that some other manufacturers, like Be Quiet, for example, they supply extra coolant in their AIO's, in their boxes. So that coolant is totally clear. So a lot of the other coolants I've worked with, totally clear. So the fact that this has a kind of a pinkish red hue to it has me slightly concerned. So, okay, here we go. Oh my gosh. Ew, this is so gross. There's like, there's like crap living in here. What the heck is this? There's all kinds of just nasty growth. I've never seen this in an AIO this modern. I mean, you'd have to be running this thing 24/7. And even then you can tell it wasn't properly treated. Look at this. You've got no flow in here. This is so gross. And someone tell me how the heck they expect fluid to get through this thing. And just look at the entrance to the channels, is totally caked up in this nasty crap. Again, I don't know what it is. I'm not a biologist, but it, it definitely shouldn't be in here. And if we pull this off, what will we find underneath? Oh yes, yep. It is what I expected. These channels are totally blocked off by whatever this gunk is in here. This is so gross. It's just, just disgusting. What the heck is this? That is so nasty. It has a distinct smell to it too. It just, it, it, ugh. It smells like, like rotting, like I don't know, rotting fruit. (Greg chuckles) It definitely isn't pleasant. Now my camera in these white balance settings, aren't doing a good enough job, I think, showing you how dark red this liquid is. It's definitely not a good color and all this gunk and crap here, shouldn't be here, yet again. Well, on that bombshell, I suppose there's not too much more to talk about here. The results are pretty self-evident. I mean, you're clearly getting no flow here. I mean, this coolant wasn't treated properly without a doubt. So a QC issue there. I do wanna talk very briefly about kind of the goal here. You're probably wondering, well, Greg, why are you wasting so much time trying to figure this out? That's what I want this series to be about. I wanna know specifically why these systems fail and the fact that we have so many different samples from all around this state, really, is just, it's so cool to be able to see all the different reasons why systems don't work, why they fail over time. And hopefully this helps you as well. So if you're in a situation like this person was here, where you've checked mounting, right? You've checked all of the obvious things that typically go wrong with AIO's. You've checked that the pump is functioning properly. You've checked that you've used the correct mounting gear and that you have adequate mounting pressure and you're still getting super high temperatures, it's possibly your coolant. We could have just stopped at the AIO overall and said, yeah, it's bad, something's wrong with it, let's throw it out, replace it. Yep, everything looks good now. Mission accomplished. But I want to know why specifically these systems don't work anymore. Why they get too hot too fast. And in this case, it came down to the coolant, which I'm intrigued by. I mean, this is, this is something else. I think all of the frustration involved with this one was worth it. You know, I went so far as to replace the motherboard, just the off chance thinking that was gonna be the solution, but it wasn't, it was freaking coolant. What the heck? And all it's really left to do now, is clean this thing up because it is quite dirty. I didn't mention that earlier, but yeah, there's like, there's quite a bit of dust. Actually this would almost qualify for a deep cleaning, but it was sent here to be fixed, not deep cleaned. So I'm just gonna take it outside very quickly, give it a quick dusting and then we'll take it back inside, clean up cable management, because it definitely needs that. And then we'll call it a day. Also wanna give it a quick scrub with some light chemicals. Got some stains I wanna take care of that didn't come up with the electric duster, And yeah, I mean, it's, she's not perfect by any means in terms of cleanliness, but this is much better than the way it came in. And last we'll tackle this rat's nest. I'll be right back. I might need a minute. 2,000 years later. And here we are. I think this is a fairly night and day difference. I've build many times in the H510 and it's derivatives. So I'm not too surprised with this work. It could obviously be a tad bit better. With all the different cables we've got running for RGB and whatnot, I think this is satisfactory. Definitely better than it looked when it came into the office. Whew. All righty. That's pretty good. Huh, buddy? Yeah. All right. He just got home. So I figured, why not? It took me a bit longer than I expected to fix this one. And on top of that, cleaning it, cable managing it. I think it looks a lot better now. What do you say, buddy? Is it looking much better now? Yeah. Yeah. So the culprit at the end of the day was the AIO, but what specifically about the AIO, I think is what's interesting about this video here. The coolant was to blame, not the pump, which is usually the case, wasn't improperly mounted or anything like that. It was just the coolant itself. Likely just a bad batch, but still not something you wanna run into and... Where, where you going? Are you running that way? Yeah. You going down downstairs again? Down, down. Okay. Just close the door for daddy on the way out. Okay. Thank you, danke schon. So yeah, I am just, yeah, I'm relieved to have finished this one. I'm glad that we were able to fix it. He did get a couple of nice upgrades, obviously. He's got a 280 mil Kraken Z63 AIO in there now, whereas before he had a 240 mil AIO and he also has a Z490N7 motherboard from NZXT. So I think the build looks much cleaner now. Thanks to the inclusion of an ATX motherboard. The N7 already looks super fantastic, in my view, I think it's one of the best looking motherboards out there. And he's still got his 10700K. That chip still works, which is always nice. Now in case you're wondering, yes, I did power the system back up and check temperatures under load. I downloaded Cinebench R23. Now this is no Prime 95 or anything crazy like that, which is already gonna bestow a pretty unrealistic load on your CPU, if you run that. But you know, if it can control temperatures while running Cinebench R23, it's gonna be fine in game. And look at those temperatures. So much better. 60 degrees Celsius. This is with the side panels on, by the way. So breathing through an H510, which is a bit restrictive at an AIO upfront. I mean, this is just so, so much better. He can actually use his computer again. He can actually play games on it. So mission accomplished there. So with that, if you guys enjoyed this video, be sure to let me know by giving us a thumbs up. That would be greatly appreciated. If for whatever reason you are not subscribed yet, get subscribed. We upload videos like these all the time. And leave a comment down below. Let me know what you thought about this build here. What did you think was the problem specifically? If you thought it was the AIO give yourself half credit, partial credit, however they word it in school nowadays. But if you thought that it was the coolant, now that my friend, you are sleuth right there. You're like Sherlock Holmes reincarnated. So that's a really good call there. Although hindsight usually is 20/20. I do regret swapping out the motherboard before the AIO. I think that was a bit silly. I probably shouldn't have done that. I just wanted to look like a hero and it didn't pay off. I ended up looking a bit stupid on camera, but like I said, I'm not gonna cut any of that out in these videos. The whole point is for you to see my step by step process and kind of go through my train of thought, right? And if I end up being wrong, so be it, that is a learning experience for not only you guys, but also for me, which is why I conclude every single video the same. Are you guys ready? Thanks for watching this video. My name is Greg. Thanks for learning with me.
