Fireball Tool Fixture Plate Part 5

[Music] welcome back to the shop guys I'm gonna get started it back on my fire Bell tool fixture plate so the last video that you seen is getting this the mounting plate bolted onto this thing you know getting it machine and bolted down so now we're back to the shaper this is going to be shaper footage right here this is going to be more cast iron practicing and trying to get a good nice flat surface on this cast iron plate here all right so I've already got some parallel setup here in the vise we've got everything clean and what we'll do is set this thing down in here everything's clean free of dust it's just all right we're gonna set it in there Center it up real good clamp it up tighten it down and we're gonna start our surface cuts here and what we'll end up doing is cutting the top of it nice and flat and then we're also going to cut the sides in we're going to do all that right here on the on the shaper and what we want to do is get it down you just want to seat it you don't want to hammer it down you see your parallels are moving there so that one's tight that one's still moving there we go and that was still snug so it's firmly seated down on those parallels now here's the tool that we're going to use to rough it out it was just a simple radius tool I got our fresh grind on it and a fresh home right on that edge and it's just simply a roughing tool so we'll use this I'm gonna use a coarse feed probably a 60,000 step over and try to get it crossed it pretty fast and we'll try our best to try to get this under the rough scale first pass so we'll see how we do I've got the Machine set up for this piece of material it said it 28 strokes a minute now doing the calculation the cutting speed times seven divided by the length of the cut puts me at 38 surface feet per minute so I usually run it a little bit slower than what the recommended speeds are so the next size down was 28 recommended cutting speed for cast iron in the book says 60 feet per minute so you can get it touched off here all right it's just now touching it there 60,000 step-over all right so this is 20 thousands on the dial there and see if that'll clean it up before so good [Music] [Music] now here's something crucial that I just reminded myself that I'd forgot about when you're doing cast iron twerk you see this edge is chipped off right there that's something that's going to happen with cast iron if you don't bevel the edge so what they recommend to do is you take a file file the corner on a bevel that clears the chip coming out through there so I'm going to go across here and I'm going to I'm going to follow that all the way across all right we just follow the edge now this may not be that important to this piece because remember we're going to be cutting the sides as well so this may be trimmed up but I'd rather go ahead and be safer and sorry then and hopefully have some good fresh lines on the edge of this part [Music] [Music] [Music] there's our finish using our roughing tool and it appears that I got everything on the the first pass across there I got I got the I got it cleaned up completely maybe this spot right there there's a little dark spot there it looks like it may be still a little porous there but what I find interesting is all these spots on this side right here I don't really see that many on this half of the plate and on this half I do and it looks like it's in the material it's in the cast so just something that I'm taking notice of doesn't matter really our our edge did so much better with the bevel filed on the edge so I can see where I see where why they teach that double your edges on your cast iron when your tool is going to come off so man I'm happy with it looks pretty good I think from here we're gonna go I was going to say maybe we'll go ahead and finish it but you know I think we need to go ahead and at least get maybe two of the sides done I don't know let me think about that because I don't want to flip it I want to I want to finish it right there where it's at so I can't do this side or this side right there so we may just go ahead and finish it we might just go ahead and finish it right now just like we're doing okay and I wanted to touch on something else again while we're while we're just chatting about this I'm chatting about it I still get a lot of people that make comments about what's the benefit of using the shaper over a milling machine you know your classic comment is why not use a mill why not use a Bridgeport why not use an end mill you know something like that you know a rotating cutter and first and foremost I want people to understand that this machine right here is something that I have a passion for it's something that I enjoy personally and I and I'm enjoying learning how to use this thing and I and I enjoy this old style of machining I know that in most applications this is it takes longer than you would sometimes do in a milling machine or any other kind of mill okay so I think for the guys that really appreciate this content appreciate the channel and know what I'm about I'm not talking to you guys it's it's the ones that don't understand who I am and haven't taken the time to learn who Adam booth is I'm enjoying using this machine and learning how to shape and one of the benefits when you're talking about comparison is we just got this ten and a half inch square piece of material faced off in about four minutes okay that's about what it takes now it's not finished that's just the rough cut we used one piece of high-speed steel that's mounted in this tool over there that you can regrind so I didn't burn up carbide I didn't burn up carbide inserts all right and I have a nice pattern I really like the patterns that these shapers make whenever they make their cuts versus your swirl marks in there okay so you guys over on the milling machines that are using indexable face mills a lot of times when I see cuts that have been made with those face mills I don't like the way the finish is it's got a tarry finish and then you have drag on there too I think this is a really cool finish very pretty and when done right it looks top notch so the benefit of what I'm getting at is that you can still cut in a large area in a short amount of time okay the other benefit is I'm using a cheap high speed tool bit versus expensive carbide tools all right so this is in a a real shop environment people are most likely not going to be using a shaper this is not in a job environment this is my personal shop this is a project that's something I'm having fun doing okay but even if this was in a in a job environment where somebody's paying you can still use this kind of machine to get this stuff done it's still going to get the job done especially if if you had something like this that you don't want to get all this cast iron over your expensive milling machines or your expensive CNC machines go to the old shaper and make it flat you know you make use of that machine while the other machines are busy doing other more important expensive jobs to make money I'll touch on something else I get a lot of comments about beforehand just this is the tool that we're going to use it measures about 300,000 squad still sharp as a tack but we're going to Rio knit using the same method that I've shown before by using our oil stone all right so I wanted to touch on the angle of this clapper I get a lot of guys asking me why this is angled the way they and a lot of people are misunderstanding how this thing is functioning they're they think that this is swung the wrong way alright this is this clapper is designed so that your tool clears on the back stroke it allows it to lift it usually doesn't lift it much not enough to really to see it but it lifts it enough so that it doesn't drag on the back stroke and this is usually stepping over as this is moving back okay it does that by design but a lot of people think that the angle of this clapper is the wrong way and what it allows you to do and whenever you're feeding when when the tool is feeding this way and the table is feeding that way you want your clapper to be swung opposite the direction of your feet okay so that's why we got to kick that way now I want you to visualize this as I swing this out okay I can't go very far with it but as that is going out I want you to see the arc the arc is making the tool go that way it's going out and around that way because of the way because of the position that this is swung in okay so if you had this clapper swung this way in the feet of the direction that I'm normally doing whenever you go back like that it's gonna bring your tool over into the material that you haven't cut yet so that's why the clapper is swung that way because of the arc it's swinging out and that way in that direction away from your material I've got the tool kicked at a slight angle somewhere around 34 degrees maybe I can see a nice home on that tool we're gonna go ahead and try right there I'm gonna file a double on the backside there just to remain that there's no scale or grit that the tool is going to go into even though it's been ground from the batteries I'm gonna go full step over on this thing 180 thousands there we go we'll have to make another cut and it's not cleaning it all the way up [Music] there we go or clean up good [Music] now from the start of that cut and clean up just over three minutes how long it took between to make that pass all right there you can see our finish we didn't really do very much in the middle it's cutting more on the perimeter of it so it's looking good out here on the edges let's go ahead make another pass distorted o'clock that's only two thousands on the doll right there [Music] there's our time three minutes going across that plate there's our finish from our second finishing pass and it's got a nice smooth feel to it man I'd love it it's got a little bit of oily substance there from the vacuum cleaning it off there I think I want to re-home my tool and try this one more time it's it's satisfactory where it's at but I'm going to see if I can improve it just a little bit so I'm going to get that done and I'll show you my results this is our final finished cut there rehome the tool and I tried to take only a thousands this time well there it is there is the final finish cut on the top and I'm very happy with it it looks great I'm glad that I touched the tool up with the hone and tried to dial in just a thousands there and it did a good job I haven't even touched it yet I just vacuumed it up from above it and then dusted it off with a rag because I didn't want to get any fingerprints or anything on it we'll try to get a couple good pictures of it it's touching that edge there it feels great nice and smooth so that finished cut right there just like I showed you a minute ago that's so that's a three-minute finished cut on a work piece s size which is a ten and a half by ten and a half so the next step is I'm going to cut the sides in I guess we'll start with this side right here and we'll use our automatic down feed to clean this side up and then we'll come over here and change our set up and then cut this side and once we have these two sides squared up then we'll take it out of the vise and rotate it and then cut our other which will be these two sides right there and that's going to be the next step and then after that it's going to be going to the mill and putting our tap holes in there this is a tool that I've been grinding up to cut in the sides and what it's meant to be used for is a either direction so you can come in and cut on the left side or come in and cut on the right side it's gonna have a neutral rake we're just we're just putting a radius on the end of it right there I'm gonna see how this does I'm not too concerned about the finish on the side I just want it to look good and have a smooth finish so we'll try this out and see how it does you just want to finish touching up my hone and then we'll go over to the machine give it a try we got the tool touched off dial indicator appears I like using that more than we're gonna do the 25 we are good you'll be using our automatic down feeds that cut the sides we've already got the cam plate set and then this is where you set the feed so quality do it either 8 or 12,000 feed rate and see how that looks until that I'm not cleaning it up so I'm gonna take another 25 looking pretty good actually if I start getting into that scale I'm gonna back off I'm gonna stop the cut and feed it over I was hoping to maybe cleaning up at ten ten and a quarter square and we had about a hundred dollars take all [Music] [Music] there's our first side finished in on the cast iron and it looks good you got a nice smooth feel to it so I ended up settling in on the it was was it I'm sorry sixteen thousand feed rate that's what I ended up using sixteen thousand so I've got a radius on the tool there and it looks good I can see just a little bit right here in this area of porosity in the cast so Jason had asked me did I see any in it and so far that's the that's the worst I've seen that little spot right there yeah it looks good so I'm going to reverse all this we're going to go to the other side and go ahead and and clean that side up as well I'm trying to touch off it's a little hard to see the tool over on that side I putting this piece of paper here this envelope so that I can hopefully see some chips falling on it whenever I touch off there we go that worked pretty good I get the tool set just above the part there I'm going to go ahead and offset it fifty-thousand start off with I think I'm just going to leave that paper there during the cut [Music] [Music] all right a little update of where I'm at so I've got these two sides even we're at 10-inch 200 thousands and what I say by even is that up in you that my depth of mic here and I've been measuring off the side of the plate over against the base plate on the bottom since that's a square plate and I've got those even on both sides right now and that's leaving me exactly 200 thousands to bring it to 10 inches I had thought about leaving it like 10 and a quarter but since it's it's cleaning up under that and I don't want to make it you know some oddball size the bulb spacing it's designed to be at 2 inch centers across this thing you know so you come in an inch you know and then 2 4 6 & 8 so if I left it like it is you're gonna have a little bit more distance between the edge of the plate and the first bolt pattern all the way around the perimeter so I've decided I'm gonna go ahead and just make it 10 inches even so I'm going to continue on cutting it I'm not gonna bore you with every every cut but I'm gonna get it in where I need to be in and out I'll bring you back that's a 50,000 step to cut there I'm gonna take a 50 a 40 and then I'll clean it up with like a ten thousands pass and I'm gonna come over here and do this side again just like that [Music] [Music] I'm getting ready to make my final cut on this side right there and it should it be around 10000 sore so I'm just going to mic it it's like 12 and a half thousand I'm gonna kind of check it here in the middle also like twelve and a half there as well so I'm just going to dial in 12,000 so on this side and make a finish cut that's that finish cut there I've been gradually slowing down the strokes per minute and I finally got it at a comfortable speed there to where it's not burning up the edge of the tool I did notice that on my previous cuts with the faster surface speed that it was kind of breaking the edge off off the tool and with that that speed right there it seems to be doing really well okay we got her finished up there nice nice cut I got it all vacuumed up let's see where I fell on my saw is there shooting for 10 inches it looks like we're 1,000 over 10 inches 1000s not bad that table trying to feed that thing a thousand since it's kind of a sticky feeling it's hard to get it exactly where you want it so yeah that's a thousand it's over right there - all right so it finished in good though it's got a nice it's got a nice smooth feel it's just a finish looks different than the top I'm happy with it alright this sides done now just now I'm going to flip it 90 degrees and I'm going to repeat it on those sides there and get this thing squared up okay guys so we're working on the other two sides of it now I'm just mimicking what I did before except for this time around I'm gonna take a hundred and fifty thousand it's off of each side and I'm going to take my measurements to see where I'm at that should leave me with a little bit to take off and it all makes the finish cuts on both sides making it trying to make it as even as I can so I'm just going to take three passes at fifty thousands of depth or pass and we'll go back and finish it out and what I'm looking forward to doing after I get this thing squared up is go into the granite plate and doing some inspections on it to try to see what kind of flatness we got on the surface on the on the top surface I want to see what kind of how flat it is you know what kind of rise and fall we'll get it like a valley between the toolmarks but also want to see how parallel it is as well let's see how flat it cut it so we'll do some we'll do some checks after I get all this squared up [Music] [Music] all right we got it all squared up now I made my finished cut there I still need to do some filing I want to see where I'm at here on size shooting for 10 inches so it looks like I hit it at mm over so 10 inches mm and we were at 10 inch 1000 sis way right here that was with trying to you know touch the tool off right here and what I did is I touch that tool touched it and it took 9,000 because I had I had 11,000 reading on the mic so I was assuming that I was going to take 10 and maybe leave one so it's okay no this isn't critical it's just a it's just a target so on that mm server back there as well it's cutting very nice and square very cool all right well I'm gonna do some file on this thing I want to break all those four corners right there and make sure the tops are filed the sharp edges are off and I hit it with a little bit of this great gray scotch-brite just to kind of remove any of the fuzziness on the side right there and clean it up and from here I want to go to the granite plate and do some inspection on it to try to find out how flat we are [Music]

Channel: Abom79

Views: 107,282

Rating: 4.9722223 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, fireball tool, fireball tool fixture plate, fixture plate, cast iron fixture plate, cast iron, machining cast iron, shaper, metal shaper., g&e shaper, heavy shaper, machine shop, job shop, machinist, booth machine shop, shaping cast iron, tool bit, finishing cast iron, honing, oil stone, finishing tool bit, honing high speed

Id: dF-14pClm0s

Length: 33min 35sec (2015 seconds)

Published: Sat Oct 27 2018