SNS 314 Part 1: Mounting a Multifix Tool Post

[Music] all right guys we're going to go ahead and get started on our next project here and this is going to be a job for a viewer my name joseph who resides out in nevada and uh recently he purchased one of these peewee tools multi-fix type tool post right here this is the 40 position tool post this is the same style of tool post that you see me use on both my victor and monarch lathes all right this is just a different size right here this is a size e from peewee tools so joseph had emailed me back whenever he was making this purchase and asked me if i could help him with this project what he wants is a new t-nut made this is the compound off of his lathe right here this is the factory uh t-nut but he didn't want he didn't want to use this right here he wanted to make a new one and so he asked if i would make a new t-nut to fit the compound good you know and then we got to make the uh the stem that goes down through the center of the tool post as well so that's uh that's what this job is about right there and whenever he had emailed me about it i was pretty intrigued and i thought this would probably be a good project for the channel it would also give me a chance to actually see one of peter's tool post here in person because i have never actually uh seen one of his al all i've got is my you know my multi-fix the original multi-fixed so this is a good look at what they look like when you buy them new from peewee tools so that's peter wendt and peter is the best source that i have ever seen or known about when it comes to the original style multi-fix tool post he knows every detail there is to know about these tool posts about the original inventors all of the different companies that have been involved making these where they come from all the tolerances sizing everything so he has every one of these made to the exact tolerances of the original multi-fix tool post every piece and component about this is manufactured the same way and once he gets them in his hand he actually inspects them to uh the original fixtures for the multi-fix tool to ensure that all the parts work not only the tool post you got your holders as well now i don't have it he didn't send me any of the holders uh that came with this so i'm just showing mine an example but just looking at it it seems to be excellent let's uh we're going to take the top plate off right here we've also got this piece this will have to be modified right there so oh there's the pointer we'll talk about that in a second so this piece right here looks exactly like the multi-fix top plate this this has your 40 positions on there all right you got your clam shells right there looks like the the handle is the same size that i use on mine all right then you got your center right there which looks like a big spline shaft and this is the base and the top so it looks good you know i haven't obviously i'm not sitting here checking it for hardness or tolerances on how everything fit up but he ensures that every component every part is the same as the original multi-fix and he guarantees that so peter or peewee tools is a good source if you're interested in any of this tool post right there he has a wide range of sizes he actually has sizes that were not originally available from from multi-fix the smallest size that he has and and i haven't seen it up close but it's probably about that big is a triple a size so he has triple a double a a um b c d and e i believe and there's uh he's got some massive ones as well so if you uh if you're interested in these this is a good place to buy from peewee tools and not only that if you need parts for yours uh he'll sell you the parts whatever you need this is an example of some of the parts see these three square headed set screws here that go with the multi-fix and you see mine says made in switzerland mine's the original i needed some more of these screws so he sent me those this piece right here that the height adjustment and the locking nut right there and this is this is actually that piece here is the bracket the screws the height adjustment screw and then the uh the the locking nut right there so all these parts are the same as the multi-fix so good quality stuff if you need any components you can buy them from him all right and saying that this is not a sponsored video by the way i'm just showing you guys a good quality tool post you know because these these have become pretty popular and sought after and i think peter does a good job of replicating the original style multi-fix all right so what we need to do i'm going to put this piece back together this is going to be bored to 14 millimeter and this is going to go down like this all right that sits right in there so this would be 14 millimeter bore this is the nut that joseph provided it's a 14 by 1.5 flange nut that will pull everything down like so all right and then so this is the pointer right here and this fits on to the tool post and then this is a spring once you get this on there this is the spring right there that you snap into place there's a little groove right there and so the spring just holds the pointer in place all right and when you're using these tool posts the idea behind this is that you have 40 different positions indicated right there and so what you can do is you can have this thing set up say for zero position for all of your normal everyday turning facing whatever all right say you want to move it you want to rotate this around 90 degrees well you just go 10 positions since there's 40 positions you divide that into 360 degrees every position is 9 degrees so if you go if you rotate this around to 10 positions that's exactly 90 degrees all right so that's a good example of how that's used you can have multiple tools set up and know exactly where uh what position you might want to rotate this on to uh to line it up all right i've actually never used that feature but it is a very cool unique feature built into the multi-fix style all right so now that we've got that covered i wanted to kind of mention all that stuff we are going to machine a brand new t-nut for this compound and the way that peter and multi-fix recommends that you make a t-nut for your lathe is that you see this one was made that way you've got the two set screws in there so once you install the t-nut into your compound you actually tighten the set screws which pulls it up tight and you have when you make this you you have it a little bit taller than the face of your compound there and then the way peter recommends is that you go to a surf you go to a surface grinder and grind this so that the t-nut is even with the top i don't have a surface grinder to grind this so my plan is to probably just use the k t mill we'll set this up in the middle vise there's uh there's not a whole lot of difference between this face and this face but i think as long as we get this square and just touch off we can deck this just enough to clean everything up nice and even we'll just use a big face mill make one pass across and be done all right the other feature built into the multi-fix you see these got these three holes here those are a six millimeter hole for this little dowel pin here and you utilize that so on your tool post the t-nut you would have a hole drilled it's like like so and when you put this on there this pin is lined up with that dowel and that prevents any kind of rotating motion with this tool post one of the holders that goes with this that you can use is uh there's a there's a tool that takes a sleeve that where you can use morse tape or drill bits and so if you're using the uh morse taper drill bit and you're applying a lot of pressure this could rotate and move a little bit so that pin actually keeps the tool post from rotating around while you're using it not only for a drill but if you're uh using some kind of heavy turning tool it just locks that in and keeps it from uh from moving all right so we know we got to make the uh the t-nut going to make that we'll machine a 3 4 10 thread down the center of it and what i'm going to do is i'm going to make the stem i've got all my drawings right here the the center bolt should i say this is what it's going to kind of look like that's not drawn to scale but i've taken all my measurements and this is how it's going to look right here once i machine it so you've got this counter bore right there and so what i'll do is i'll have it threaded down in the into the t-nut it's going to be turned so that it fits this area right here very very close and in the center of it right there we've got it at uh 20 millimeters to fit up through there and of course on the top we'll have our 14 millimeter bore coming through this piece threaded for the flange nut right there and the other thing i'm going to do is go ahead and machine some wrench flats on the largest diameter which is 30 millimeter so that you'll be able to take a wrench just a standard wrench and tighten it into the t-nut there all right and materials i've got this piece of 4140 that we'll use for the center bolt all right that'll take care of that and for the t-nut itself uh closest thing i've got on hand is this 1 by 3 hot roll flat bar so i'll just cut a piece of this off in the band saw and we'll go to the k t mill and we'll do all of our milling over there get this down to the size that we need and then we'll use the do all mill to do our our holes there all right so let's go ahead and get started on it all right we got our block of steel cut off in the bandsaw there dress just a little bit on the edges and get some of the rust off so we'll go ahead and get that thing milled down to size this will be our first cut after we get after we got the knee feed motor wired up correctly let's try that's a quarter inch depth of cut 10 inch feet well 10 inches a minute for our feed let's see what that does [Applause] so looks like i handled it better than it did before [Applause] yeah i think it did just fine all right well we got a total of an inch and a quarter to take off the width of this i'll take another cut here and we'll flip it over and go ahead and mill it to our one and three quarter [Applause] width [Applause] [Applause] that one did even better i went ahead and sped it up another 50 or so rpm looking good we're doing a cleanup pass the other way there drop the feed rate down to five inches a minute just try to get a little better finish on it so so all right we're gonna stick it in here and go ahead and uh deck the top and the bottom uh just to clean that up and then we'll uh we'll leave enough there that we can finish it on the compound once we're done the uh this is the new set of eight inch parallels i bought from uh kbc we also got a nice parallel separator there too i think i'm gonna go if i go two inch nice looking grinding [Applause] exactly what i wanted some eight inch wide parallels and a nice standard size set all right and i got the parallel separator too from them and this one is made by automatic products made in usa all right perfect [Applause] so so [Music] [Music] [Applause] so our width here i was going for an inch and a quarter see what we got more to the brown and sharp we've got at about a thou under 1.249 249 and a half so we got our size there only thing left we got to do i was saving it for the end i'll put a bigger end mill in there and we'll side cut the ends and get rid of that saw cut [Applause] that's an eighth of an inch depth of cut there good [Music] all right there's our there's our t-nut finished out minus the hole that's the next step there but we got all the ends filed dressed and there we go i've actually got it milled to the same width of the compound here so it's the you know exactly the same should be flush on both sides there all right well the uh next up we'll go to the do-all we'll go ahead and get our holes put in there and then that will uh finish up the t-nut once we do that get the holes tapped drilled and then we'll um get to our center stem piece after that we got our t-nut set up over here in the dewalt so we can put our holes in it so here's here's what the map looks like we've got our center hole that we'll drill for three-quarter ten these two holes here just going to be drilled for a quarter 20 and then here this is our six millimeter pin that i actually measured the bottom of the tool post the center bore and then the uh the hole pattern there's three holes in there and i'm sure the nominal is a 50 millimeter bolt circle where these pins are but the actual measurement from the center to the center is going to be 24.4 millimeters so that's where i'm going to drill that six millimeter hole for the pin to go in and that should line up perfectly right there so we're just going to go ahead and we're just going to get the holes drilled here and then i want to go to the flex arm to use that for tapping i haven't used it for the small tapping yet and so we'll just go over and do that i can i can tap it right here but i want to go over and use the flex arm and you know use that machine that i've invested in here we'll do our center hole first and then we'll move over and do our metric six millimeter hole and then we'll just uh drill the ends since the ends are evenly spaced from the end of the block symmetrical we'll just drill one and flip it around against our stop all right using our dro we are stepped over exactly 24.4 millimeter or let's see what we got here 24.4 or 960 thousandths it's the same same the same same same only different right all right so what we'll do this is our pin we're going to use so we don't want it to go all the way through there let's measure it it looks like it's going to be roughly 20 millimeters let's just take half of that we've got a we got a dro in our quill here i've already got it set to uh metric so we'll just once we touch off and get a radius established we'll go down 10 millimeters using that right there okay and i've got some metric drills i don't have a six millimeter reamer i'm going to use a 5.5 millimeter drill to drill the hole and then we're going to just kind of like ream it with a six millimeter drill bit right there all right we'll use the center drill on this one just to make sure that we maintain our exact center line just use the tip there all right we'll go ahead and put our 5.5 mil drill in there what i'm going to do is i'm going to come down and touch it just kind of get it right back there and i'll stop the mill we're going to bring it down here touch it i'm going to zero this quill out right there that way i know i'm i got a good 10 millimeter depth all right there's our 10 millimeter depth we'll put our six millimeter drill in there a little drop of oil in the hole and let's just kind of ream it the size with the drill bit careful not to drill the bottom because it'll make it kind of walk off a little bit and let's see how we did look at that see that just like it was rain let me move this drill before i stab my finger i'm glad that it didn't make me look like a fool on video here see very close fit that's a little trick that i've used many times if i don't have a reamer and i just need to get something done right away just drill it one size under even if you got to mix your imperial wire sizes with a metric just drill it slightly small and then use a good drill bit that you know has got a perfect grind on it to uh to drill it right to the size that you want right there so that's that's great perfect just going to touch off on this edge and we're going to move in a half inch from the from the end of the part there so it's a three-quarter on the dial up here go ahead and get these holes drilled these are going to be for quarter 20 set screws just make our divot there and then we'll get the hole drilled we'll be using a number seven drill bit tap size for our porter 20. now that we got that one drilled since it's going to be the same as this end we've got it on our stop so we'll just simply flip it around like so and that whole location will line up nicely and those red marks were just references with a scale they're not exactly on the center there pretty darn close though [Applause] getting that center hole chamfered nicely too so we don't have any burrs hanging out of it when we tap it all right we've got our flex arm ready we're going to use it to tap our three holes we've got it adjusted for the three-quarter tap so these are the two taps we'll be using right here we're gonna use a three-quarter ten for the center hole and we've got a quarter twenty for the two set screw holes so this is the smallest tap that's rated for the ghm 60. i've had a lot of folks ask about how to adjust the torque on these things flex arm actually builds these tool holders right here and they are adjusted from their factory to provide the right amount of torque for these taps so like if you used to use this to bottom tap or you hit the bottom this thing would actually clutch out and not break the tap so this is how you uh this is how the torque adjustment works on them they're built into the doors so we'll go ahead and start with the three-quarter first get it done [Music] we'll go ahead and speed it up just get it centered up on the hole there a little going just watching the bottom there all right reverse now there we go i probably could have done that a lot faster i just got it in gear one right now that looks good perfect all right so we're going to take this one out and we'll go ahead and stick in our little bitty 420 all right and we'll uh reset the speed and we'll go ahead and tap our quarter clamp all right so here we go over our quarter 20 hopefully we won't have any catastrophes and by the way the tap isn't going to go all the way through so i'm going to tap it as far as i can and then back out and then after we deck this thing off i'll run a hand tap down through there to make sure that it's tapped all the way through all right i'm gonna put a little drop of oil right there in the hole all right back her out come over to our second hole and do this [Music] nice [Applause] all right there we go 2 4 20 cap holes so here is the the big boy two inch tap right here and uh flex arm actually give me this right here as just uh just a gift so that we can uh make a little show and tell here on the with the flex arm but just to show you an example there's a two inch this is the maximum capacity of the flex arm that i have and then there's the quarter so quite a size difference right there so whenever i get a chance we'll uh i'll take a block of steel and we'll drill a proper tap size hole in it we'll come over here and we'll test it out with the big two inch tap i actually realized after i had told you that we would tap this after we deck it off i remembered that well i got to have the tapped holes all the way through because we're going to be locking this thing down using these set screws to uh hold it in place for the permanent position where it's going to be inside the compound there so i've got my i got a good bottom tap here we're going to go ahead and run this through there and i think i got just enough to clean that hole up it just broke through we got just enough i got about one and a half or a half rotation out of the hole there so we did good just enough length and then i'll um get these we'll get these tapped i got to go find some set screws i'll see if i got some longer set screws we can use to install in this we'll get these and then uh so our next phase is to go back to the knt there we go hitting the bottom and just broke through right there all right and then so we'll set it up in the the mill vise in the knt and we'll make our nice little uh deck cut across here to make this surface nice and even with the top of the compound there all right there's our compound you guys i don't think you've seen it fit yet maybe i showed you earlier i can't remember now there we go got just a little bit of wiggle room there so we're just going to center it up on the ends and these are three-quarter length set screws tighten them in just like that and so you can see the amount that we've got a deck off there it's actually a little more than i thought it was this is where it'll live right there this is going to shorten the depth of my hole that's one thing that i did overlook but i don't think that's gonna be an issue there we're still gonna be able to use that pin just right there where it's at all right to the mill we go before we go the mill i was gonna do this i thought i would just show you we're using our precision ground stones and we're doing this just to clean the surface get any dust or dirt off of it i'm just doing this to make sure there was no burrs from handling it shipping it around i want to do the bottom because we're hoping that the bottom is parallel with the top we'll go ahead and do the side here as well just to make sure there's no burr on the side i felt one right in there but we got it all this side as well i felt a couple little ones in there there we go all right all right guys we're all set up in the k n t ready to make our cut and i opted to we're going to use the y axis to cut this and all i did was just eliminate me having to loosen the vise and turn it around and then re-indicate it so i've got just enough room we're going to be cutting from the back and feeding that way i've got the vise all the way over against the uh the ways right there so we got just enough clearance there to start our cut and they'll be able to bring the part all the way out from underneath the face mill there so on the back side here i have just touched the tool there it is just touching it that's going to be our zero point right there but we'll probably take another say two thousandths past that i did mic this to see how parallel it was and i had one thousandth discrepancy in that so it's probably why we're seeing the tool touching more on this side than it is over here so we'll go ahead and deck the bulk of that off there in one pass and then we'll come back and feed it up uh the the total of uh 12 thousandths and then hopefully make our cleanup cut across this right here and be done with it let's see what it does on the the back end there i've got the uh the vertical head here tram just as close as i can it looks like we got a good finish i i swapped all those inserts out because we had some those have been on there for a long time and the corners were starting to get burned up [Applause] all right that's looking good let me turn that off there finish is looking really good on that i'll tell you what i know that i can just clear this and stop the feed so i think i'll just go ahead and we'll just feed it right here and i'll watch it come across i changed my mind we're gonna go ahead and feed it the way i did that way when we come out we can see our finished cut there so we are ready to go [Applause] [Applause] [Applause] all right well that's what we were looking for that one clean cut all the way across there i was trying not to get into this part of the surface right there which it wasn't very much you can just barely feel a step there got you back over here on the bench we're going to use a flex arm i've got a drill chuck and a chamfering tool we're going to go ahead and re-chamfer these holes here a little bit more there about that yep that'll work there we'll get the quarter holes just got to get lined up it's a small hole there to line up on okay there we go now pinhole i'm going to do that by hand with the noga tool a little bit more ah there we go it's got some chips down in there but uh all right let me grab the tool folks and it will sit on there just like that looks like our center hole lines up perfectly there all right all right well our t-nut is complete now so we can go ahead and move on to our next phase which is going to be the center the center bolt here and we'll use this piece of 4140 to machine that out of that'll screw in right there and then that tool post will sit down on top of that so we'll it'll all be laid work there but uh this turned out good it was uh it did exactly what i was hoping that it would do and we got our pin there and uh there we go so we've got a nice uh seat across the whole bottom of this multi-fix style tool post right there that's what uh peter told me this thing was designed uh you need to have it this needs to be designed and machined so that the entire bottom of this is sitting on the compound there not just on the uh the two sides of the top slide so i think we met our goal there all right so next up is the center bolt we'll meet you down there at the lathe okay [Music] [Music] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so [Music] you

Channel: Abom79

Views: 226,212

Rating: 4.9275508 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, tool post, multifix, multifix tool post, pewe tools, pewe tools tool post, lathe work, victor lathe, 4140, milling machine, super spacer, threading, single point threading, metric threading, go no-go gage, go gage, thread gage, machine shop, job shop, lathe compound, mounting a tool post, compound t-nut, t-nut, 40 position tool post

Id: FDPfB4r1qEw

Length: 44min 15sec (2655 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 18 2020