Fairbanks Power Hammer Cross Head: Part 2

[Music] okay we're getting our cross rail set up in the kearney and trucker mill this is kind of how it'll look with our setup i'm making a modification of my angle plate and i'll show you what we're doing so what we're going to be uh the machining ops we're going to be doing here is we got to machine our split down this side right there this is where it's through through uh drilled and tapped so that this part can squeeze on the bar that goes down the middle of it there so i'm gonna pull it up to an angle plate and i'm i'm having to modify the angle plate so i can actually get it bolted down right here because the slots aren't in the right spot but this will this will provide a nice strong flat surface you know we'll pull it up on this fir at the surface there we'll have a clamp you know a stud coming through to pull it up so we'll be able to mill this here mill our slot in the middle and also deck this off right there so that we can then flip it over and mill the other side so right now i'm set up in the uh do all this is the angle plate that i'm going to use and i'm just adding a a 5 8 hole for my 5 8 hold down stud so that i can utilize uh two of the slots in the middle right there and uh get this drilled and then we'll start getting her set up in the mill with our additional hole right there we're able to uh kind of put the studs in the middle because if you try to if you try to come out here on these studs right there the flange does just run into the webbing so i'm going to use three studs using our 5 8 hold down hardware we'll square it up with the machinist square here and then we'll uh we'll give it a check and see how close we got it should usually you can get within a couple of thousands that looks pretty good i'll snug it down right there and then we'll for fun we'll run an indicator across and see how close we are all right let's see how close we are just going to zero that out on the fine adjust there wow you see how close you can get it with a square we got a little variance because the surface of the angle plate isn't perfectly flat across there let's go back across here and see that's a little bit of movement in the indicator and stuff whenever you change directions getting some false readings i guess about two two thousand yeah it's about 2 000 so i'm going to leave it just where it's at right there because i don't think we're going to [Applause] improve on it that much pretty good right about there i'm gonna go ahead and snug it down all right here's our setup got a couple parallels for this surface here i've set up this planer gauge to kind of like act as a jack to hold it hold it up where i want i'm just gonna sort of like lining up right in the middle of the slot right here in the back we got a t-nut in the back right there and that fits that slot there and we're just going to put one of these clamps on the front 5 8 flange nut there so this will allow us to pull it up tight against this face on the back but still give us clearance here so when we come in here with our saw we'll be able to you know clear the stud and the clamp and still be able to come in here and cut it i'm going to put this sterit little giant machinist jack right up underneath the center of it here and push up on it kind of not too much but i want it to stay snug and that should help with a little bit of vibration dampening there on the outer end i would really like to put an angle plate here on the side but the only way i would be able to hold it is to put a clamp around it like this which is going to be right in the way of where i'm trying to do the saw so we're just going to roll with this i've got this you know really tight so it should be held up squarely and firmly against the angle plate and now we've got this guy right here pushing up on it so we're going to roll with that and hopefully it's going to work pretty good for us we're going to start by shaving the side of this ear off here we've only got about a 16 to take off equally on each side right there so we're going to do this first and we're going to mill this off first as well we'll do this first just a second that way the vertical milling is done because i got to take the vertical head off and set up for the horizontal horizontal saw that we're going to use to split it all right so i was looking for an end mill that had a nice radius on the bottom of it so we don't have like a sharp corner right here and i finally found one i knew i had one around here somewhere that guy right there that's a two inch end mill with a radius i haven't measured a radius on the bottom but that's what we want so that we can come out here and side mill that and have like a radius profile right there at the bottom make it look pretty good all right so i've already got my two inch end mill holder installed i'm gonna use my kevlar glove so i don't split my hand open handle that thing because it's brand new all right we're ready to mill all right you can see i've got the depth established there and i came in there and touched off to where it was just touching in the very center right here at the top so we're going to take an equal amount we're taking uh 40 thousandths off this side we'll step it over or two and three sixteenths and that'll take another forty thousandths off that other side there so we're ready to go the thing did a nice smooth cut on there it looks good nice rigid setup here all right we're going the other side so so [Applause] just give it a check here with the calipers when i dialed it over i moved it over 490 so if i can get the caliper squared up so it looks like we're maybe about five six seven so about 5 000 it's over we'll just take a uh i'll just climb cut that side to bring it down i don't think that tolerance is very fussy though you know it's all fractional dimensions there it's only 5 thousand so not a big deal i'll just make a little spring cut climb cut on the other side okay so our next move is to deck this off right there and like i said we're going to be removing these casting letters that was put in there i confirmed with eric that these don't have to be in there i don't know why why they're right there because this has to be machined anyway and then our holes will end up going there as well so measuring across this we're at four and seven eighths and we need to be uh four and a half so i'm just taking i'm going to take 3 16 off of each side we'll do this side first and then later on we'll actually bolt it down to this and then machine the other side so i'm using a three inch roughing shell mill there we're going to take it at one pass all right here we go [Music] [Laughter] [Applause] [Music] [Music] i'm gonna have to move it across that way [Applause] all right so we got this finished here i just i uh i went back across there just to try to even out that uh that machining finish on there it's got a little bit more of a checkerboard look to it but anyway we got this side done this is done so we got to break this setup down and go with our horizontal so we're going to get the machine set up i'll bring it back and then we'll do our split in here to for our saw split i'm going to use this 3 16 slitting saw the print actually calls for a quarter inch wide slot to be cut in there but the quarter inch wide slitting saws i have none of them are big enough to be able to reach the depth and then clear here you know because you got to take consideration your arbor spacers as well so i think this one i've been just kind of eyeballing it here i think this one's just big enough to be able to clear the top here and get through the uh the bore so we're going to use this 3 16 right here so okay we got everything tightened up i've got the arbor nut tight and i've also established the depth here visually we're just below the borderline of the uh the part so we're gonna we're gonna touch off right here and then i'll move to the center i'm just going to bring the part over until it just starts touching the saw blade there we go there's touch off so our move over is going to be 1 and 3 16. 1.188 is what we're going to move it that'll put us in the center right there all right guys here we go we are running 44 rpm right at 100 surface feet a minute and we're going to try about an inch and a half feed rate to start with see how it does [Music] seems to be a little uh unrigid there seems to be flexing a little bit on the stud so now that we're through with uh this mill in here i'm gonna see if i can't do what i was talking about maybe clamp an angle plate just something we need something out here to support the outer end so let me see what i can come up with all right we're gonna give this another try what i ended up doing is i put another uh machinist jack underneath this flange nut right here and i've got both of these jacks snugged up where they were they were snug all right then we got a heel a gooseneck clamp on the on the nut but we're supporting the nut with the jack here so that this clamp isn't actually pulling the stud down and i'm hoping that this is going to give it enough rigidity to get the saw uh through there because if we if we clamp this you know i caught an angle plate and we could reach around here with a big c clamp and clamp it but the problem is since we're splitting it we're going to be like clamping onto the saw blade as it cuts through there which is probably going to be catastrophic if i did it that way so usually if you can get a little support on the outer end like this it'll work we might get some chatter but as long as it's cutting we're just gonna roll with it so let's give it a shot just going back into the cut now it's just rubbing i did slow it down to 37 rpm not quite one inch a minute i had to back off the feed there [Applause] um [Music] um um [Music] hey uh all right we're going to stop right there i need to see where our trucks at yeah we still got to come on down through there we're probably going to have to come at least about halfway down this right here so that we uh may even be further than that i just need to make sure that our split goes all the way through the bore to this side here [Music] [Music] so [Music] all right we made it that time i i went as far back as i could for the blade hit this this section of the part and what i did was i just manipulated it by hand and moved the table and then cranked the knee up and was uh cutting the bottom of it just making sure that i wasn't cutting into this as far as i could before the arbors were you know start getting into these ears right there so it goes through to uh right there that's that's where the edge of the split is so that should allow this to uh work just like it should there's no actual formal dimension on the length of this it just shows on the print the split you know going from the end to about right there so i'm happy with i'm glad that we got this done because i was a little nervous after that first try you know it started shaking around but this tow clamp out here did did the trick now that our slitting operation is done i think my next approach is going to be to actually uh take it down from here we're going to flip it over onto this this face that we already machined and we'll be able to clamp it there and then machine the opposite side when we do that we'll probably be able to come out here and maybe uh use the side mill and mill this face to the proper length there this would be a good time to put the holes in there because we got our through holes for our pins but i don't want to use this machine for that it's just it's a lot more difficult when you don't have a a quill that a quick action quill like a bridgeport type of mill so this operation will be done over on the do-all it'll be set up just like this we're going to pull it up on the angle plate and i'll be able to accurately you know find the center drill it ream them that kind of stuff so i'm going to get all this broke down and then set it back up on the table and i'll bring it back whenever we get to that [Music] stage [Music] [Music] [Music] do [Music] you

Channel: Abom79

Views: 156,860

Rating: 4.9671807 out of 5

Keywords: Abom79, K&T milling machine, horizontal milling machine, slitting saw, horizontal milling arbor, milling arbor, machining cast iron, machining a casting, Fairbanks Power Hammer, Fairbanks Power Hammer Cross Head, angle plate, manual machining, manual machinist, old tools, vintage machines, shell mill, roughing mill, end mill, machine shop, job shop, Starrett little giant

Id: Y0y4XnKotRU

Length: 33min 53sec (2033 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 06 2021