Hello everyone and welcome to the X3M TIG Channel
guys, so for today's video I'm going to show you about extreme Tungsten stick
out, when to use it how to use it so this is one of the examples of the weldolet
it's a perfect example of a really tight for the tight spot and the way how you place
your root in, this is a little tip here when you drill a hole once you mark your drill Point once
you put a center punch, use a piece of a channel iron works perfectly, make it level just wrap it
around with chain grips and set up your mag drill, mag drill is the perfect tool to drill a
hole on the pipes, definitely you want to avoid the drilling by hand using a cordless drill
or whatever is going to bounce all over the place so once it's set up double-check for pipe
everything is level and square, and you can start drilling, the good thing about a MAG
drill is that keep that cookie inside that drill bit so it doesn't fall in that line
especially if you're in the field up on the line there's no access so definitely you don't want to
drop cookie inside and all that shavings that's why I mag drill is works perfectly especially
set up like this makes life way easier and usually, that cookie stays a in a
drill bit not in this case but a good thing it's a it's accessible so you can we can take it out
so once you clean all that pipe burrs around with the pencil grinder use the grinder clean all that
welding area, nice and clean remove the mill scale this is what I like to do for a
gap 5/32 on that weldolet it's inch and a three-quarter weldolet or sockolet one tack, put level make it nice and square everything's
level then I'm gonna put another tack it's gonna be three tacks all together for that weldolet
nothing fancy just the bridge tacks just to keep that in place, the main thing is here just
to keep that weldolet level it as it as it is square so for the stick out as you can see here
definitely far away from that bevel from that edge so we gotta go out with the extreme
stick out unfortunately I didn't measure the exact but the reference this is probably too
much so the reference is a top cup is touching the weldolet and the point of my tungsten
is reaching top and the bottom of that of the joint so for the shielding gas coverage on
that stick out you want to go with a 45 50. I'm around 45 here for the
Shield gas, the shielding gas with 45-50 liters per minute (LPM) that's a good coverage
for Tungsten prevents any contamination and with a bigger stick out with a good
gas coverage you keep the tungsten clean gives you a weld puddle clean otherwise
if you got very poor coverage they'll affect your tungsten and the weld puddle it'll
be just impossible to weld the one thing as well on the welding stuff like this
gas lens, the gas lens is a really crucial for the gas lens you want to use like this
is 1/8 gas lens and this one so for this argon flow for this coverage it allows you to
extend their tungsten stick out that much and then you got way better visibility of the weld
pool and especially in tight access weld like this so half of the root is done just
gonna check out, I'm gonna go check out inside and that's how the root looks like, root
looks good you don't wanna you don't want to have any excessive root build-up or grapes inside
even though if it's a small weld and usually the small welds small stuff usually requires lots of
skills lots of patients in my opinion more work than on bigger diameter pipes especially
small stuff like this even though there's no x-ray or anything you have to make a nice good
root it's you got to be a visual inspection as you can see here so the same thing is on a
horizontal weld, when the top and the bottom edges you want to add Rod you can keep the rod on the
top or dip in the middle and stretch that puddle and for the tie-in, the same thing pause on
the sides or on the top and the bottom and then just add wire as required you want
to have a nice and good connection here once you go on the top add Rod bottom a little
pause here in the middle and then just go over it half inch like, for any tie in and the main thing is just, don't
dip too much that tungsten try to not dip it too much just to prevent
contamination the root is done the only thing here also as well is
keep weldolet level as it was and so the good thing is each pass finish
on the opposite side is as we know the tig is prone to pull especially on a small stuff
like this so we're going to lower stick out same thing remember reference gonna be touching
the cup or the top of that top of the cup touch weldolet, and tip of the tungsten and be
up to five mil from from that root pass run a buffing wheel for each pass right now
I don't know did I mention that's a 1/8 rod 1/8 tungsten 2%
thoriated and a cup size #8 for the root pass I was running around 130 amps and for
the hot pass I got 10 amps up so around 140. maybe you can go with a smaller cup I started
with cap size eight so I'm just gonna finish just gonna continue and finish
all that weld with the cup size 8. yeah for the hot pass as you can see I'm
holding that Rod up and stretching that puddle down it's more like you can a free hand
here it's not really walking the cup and that's it there is some impurities that's from the pipe and for from the weldolet that's
why it's good to run the buffing wheel as I said finish each pass on the opposite side to keep that weldolet now we're
gonna run one more pass here before we start doing
passes for a capping okay one more pass same thing keeping the
rod on the top stretching the puddle down it's a little bit slower process and that's it and now we're gonna run up to
that shoulder that's the shoulder of the weldolet so I'm gonna run one pass at the bottom I
just re-melted the bottom it was a little like a cold lap here at the bottom so I'm not
just going to run one more pass at the bottom I'm kind of trying to walk the cap you can freehand as I said you can switch the cups a smaller cup bigger cup
whatever works better for you same thing I'm keeping that Rod at the top and just stretching that puddle and to the bottom okay that's it for the for the bottom pass I'll
be gonna I'm gonna run one more pass up to that shoulder as you can see here that shoulder
you know you don't want to pass that shoulder I see some guys who go up above that shoulder to
that, stamping yeah definitely no need for that, the main thing here is an inclination
at the angle how you keep your tungsten inclination torch you don't want to go too much
up or pause as you don't want to create undercuts just go a little below that shoulder and
you move you stretch that puddle to cover that shoulder and at the same time you want to
keep the same with at the bottom as well I'm around 150 amps for this one okay that's
that's the top pass as you can see now that should be like a done-work, done job
but I'm not really happy not really satisfied with that as you can see like it's like
a cold lap don't really like the appearance even there is no undercut I mean
this should be good as well but I just don't like it so I'm thinking about
running a second pass at the bottom to cover to cover all this so the bottom
pass is going to be the final one same thing 150 amps and that's pretty much that, thing with a
if you got an extreme stick out if you got tight welds you can pull it out make
sure it's not like a colet body , they're not really good they heat too much
they can't handle too much argon flow but for, with the gas lens in this case 1/8 you can really Crank that shielding gas and it's gonna cover your weld puddle your
tungsten you can still have a nice good control as a showed you at the beginning
of this video it was like over 20 mil and everything was good everything was okay and that's it , I think this is way way better
than what it was didn't like that first one so I think this is good that's it pretty much for
today's video guys I hope you like it hope you enjoy it, thank you for
for your support for everything so far and keep the good work and see
you in the next one guys, take care!
