TableFlip Resin Printing Class: Beginner 3D Printing class + New Auto Support Workflow in Lychee!

[Music] hey what's up welcome to the stream so glad of you to join hopefully audio's good i'm still figuring this kind of stuff out so hey bearded twitcher first time hey welcome man i think man hopefully man but i got it right um so i'll give a couple uh people a couple of minutes to kind of roll in oh my goodness jarb did i pronounce it right kyarb that's a rough one uh welcome thanks thanks for joining uh so my name is tai and oh wow my uh my green screen is really weird today about the best i can do right now so cj no i'm gonna i'm gonna stop guessing oh welcome thanks for coming um everybody audio's okay just bearded we'll just call you bearded i consider i considered uh trying to pull off like maybe the bearded blacksmith or uh the bearded bard but i don't sing all right perfect um well let me start off while people are rolling in here let me talk about uh you know what i do uh what table flip foundry's about um why the heck am i the one teaching a class and uh you know why you should uh pay attention or listen to me as opposed to anybody else um so my name is ty i own a company called table flip boundary and we have a um we have a lot of of different avenues um to our business um we do have an etsy store we sell 3d printed minis on our etsy store um and then we try to sell a lot of like immersion type products we have an artist on staff who will do like custom character sheets and we have the ability to print custom battle maps like full-size battle maps things like that so we have this sort of like idea that tabletop gaming should be as immersive as possible and we offer um products that try to help that we we're developing some you know potions that go on a shelf in your gaming room and things like that on the other side of that uh we do professional pre-support so if you um buy a kickstarter there's a chance that we did the pre-supports for that kickstarter so um if any of you guys are resin printing and you've come across let's say like the uncharted lands kickstarter we did the sports for that so there's been a lot of time and dedication and effort into developing a system that makes that makes 3d printing in resin really easy for you well my assumption lately and maybe some of you guys are like this is that we might have gotten our first resin printer for christmas and we're still figuring out the ins and outs of what does it do how does it work um and i i just kind of wanted to go over a few like of the basics to try to get you a really good understanding of like what is the printer how does the printer work um things to look out for a couple tricks on on let's say things like cleaning and and uh and then we're gonna touch on um supports water supports what are they meant to do um we're not gonna get super deep into like support theory um we teach another class for like pre-support specifically but i want to give you like a broad overview get you really familiar with um you know what's this tool you're working with and how can we use it the best way possible with the best understanding possible so um i've been printing since 2018 i think i've been resin printing since 2019 i've had my own patreon i i'm not much of a sculptor but i'm more of an engineer i used to to have a patreon called the table uh tabletop engineers um and now we've sort of like shifted gears and we're we're supporting artists who are really good at what they do today we're going to have a not really sneak peek because he's sort of advertising it right now but there's a kickstarter coming up called the barbarian by the lions tower adventure guild and we are going to have a look at the model like in 3d today we're going to learn a brand new um like pre-support or an auto support method that i can it's like a workflow that i came up with this is not a workflow to be used for like professional work this is just like a quick and easy for anybody who's new doesn't quite have all of the the like ins and outs of supporting down or just want to hammer out a model real quick like as a one-off so this doesn't take into account like ease of removability anything like that but it's a very sophisticated workflow that uses some features in lychee that um even some of some of the the lychee staff were a little surprised to hear that lychee worked this way and so um so it's it's like this really cool feature uh in the way that lychee works that allows us to sort of um identify certain aspects of a model so let's let's start with the beginning we'll go from the beginning all the way to to printing and and let's just kind of talk about what's a 3d resin printer how does a 3d present resin printer work and then some some of you guys that are here i know at least mr square pig uh he knows this stuff um so unfortunately i gotta i wanna go through this stuff before we get to the the auto support method um and uh and then we'll we'll sort of go from there so so i'm going to talk in general about just the normal um resin printers that like the average consumer is used to so the average consumer is going to be using and there's lots of brands out there any cubic frozen ela goo epex there they all have um have like some options for resin printing and they all sort of generally work the same so we're gonna we're gonna kind of break it down to the very the very base like what is this how does it work so in uh in resin printing you basically have this resin with a photo polymer in it and that photopolymer and hopefully i use all of the right exact terms for this but this this this resin will start to harden once it's come in contact with with uv light so the way these printers work is they use a um a uv light source and that light source is usually called a parallel array so i'm going to bring some stuff up on screen here we're going to kind of understand some of these terms oops uh we're gonna understand some of these turns together thing all right so let's have a look at a parallel array okay so this is um let's see this is what we'd refer to as a parallel array so each one of these these little bubbles has a uv light underneath it and these little bubbles are lenses in there and they're specifically designed to um to make light travel in a parallel direction it actually creates like a lamellar light wave so to speak so that that when when the uv light goes off all of the light will scatter and kind of go every direction this lens will sort of pull it in and bring it into a straight line and sort of focus the light in a very very precise way so this um parallel array is underneath your masking device which is an lcd screen and what will happen is these lights will turn on and shine light to the bottom of a vat full of resin and that that full of resin cures in a very specific pattern so beneath that or i'm sorry above that is a is a an lcd screen and it'll look this this is one um probably for oh looks like maybe for a photon or something like that so this lcd display goes above the uv array and you can actually see here that lcd display is used to mask uv light from hitting the resin and when it blocks that uv light in a certain shape only the light that passes through will hit the resin and the resin will start to harden in that specific shape so what you have above that is is this vat which is just a big bowl full of resin and and these vats have a specific type of plastic called fep and one of the new technologies is called nfep which i think is for not fep um and that that bottom is is perfectly clear it's crystal clear and uv light will pass through that bottom layer into this tub full of resin then what will happen is we have a a build plate which is where our part is connected so you can kind of see the build plate inside the vat here that build plate will sort of come down really close to the screen but with just a small small gap in between that uv light will pass through the lcd screen in a very specific shape it'll pass through the fep and it'll it'll hit the resin and it will penetrate the resin but it will only penetrate the the size of the gap between the fep and the build plate so what will happen is that you will get a very precisely shaped hard piece of resin in that teeny gap after that the build plate will lift itself and separate that resin from the fep sheet now this part's really important the fep she is specifically it's the reason we specifically use fep is because it its its um ability to grab the resin is less than the build plates ability to grab the resin which means every time that build plate lifts up it's very very likely and sometimes you'll have there'll be issues occasionally and we'll get into some of those issues but it's very very likely that the the resin is going to stick to the build plate and not stick to the fep sheet and that's that's sort of like the cornerstone of the function of this um of this printer is that the things stick to the build plate and not to the bottom of the vat so then what will happen is the build plate will go up it'll come back down but it'll come back down slightly taller like with a bigger gap and then there will be a a new layer where the light turns on it the lcd will shape in a certain shape it will cure in that shape which is the next layer and it will gradually build now we're going to take a look at this in lychee slicer we can kind of give a um we can we can actually see what the screen would do um with lychee slicer here um we'll get into what the slicer is and how that works but here's a perfect example so here we're going to get like halfway up so this white area is where the screen would be on on on this particular layer so this layer is layer 547 and on layer 547 these white lines are exactly what the screen will will activate and it will black everything else out the uv light will turn on for a duration of time depending on the printer and then these shapes will cure as a hard layer on your 3d print and then what will happen is the the vat will pull that up off the fep and it'll go up to the next layer and the next layer and the next layer and the next layer and it will gradually change its shape based on the object and what we're seeing here is basically a super sped up timeline of what would that look like every single time this white section changes this is a change in the lcd screen and you can see it builds on itself each layer by layer so that's pretty much front to back that's how a 3d printer makes an object in 3d just curing these layers of of resin one at a time and building an object up so how do we get that like what do we you know what do we put in the printer how do we get it to the printer so in order to get this digital file this 3d model into your printer you use a a program called a slicer there are a few slicers out there i'm not going to say that some are better than others i can tell you that i personally use lychee slicer and i use their pro version which is a paid version they do have a free version it's totally okay to use the free version i would definitely recommend getting the paid version i used to use a different a different software and i used it for years and i was very comfortable with that software and then a good friend of mine comes to me says hey have you tried lychee yet and i was like nope i'm good i don't need anything else i've got this down he's like listen go get it try it out for a few hours and you're gonna change your mind and i did i took his advice i did exactly that a few hours later i was already paying for pro and then um and then i've never looked back i've never swapped i've never needed a swap this does everything and more that i need to do so when i teach these classes they're always going to be um done with lychee so uh so you need this software in order to create a file that goes into your 3d printer now this um this software will take a solid object and we call it a slicer because what it does is i'll take that solid object and slice it into the layers and give those layers to your printer so that the screen knows what each layer shape is supposed to be like so we can kind of view that let's bring in just a random object so here's our random solid object not really in layers and here we can actually see these are all the layers that that your printer would print in order to to make this cube happen so when you go in to lychee you're going to need to add your printer now these are all the printers that i have in my in my print farm but let's say we're adding a new printer let's say we just got a new any cubic um i don't know mono i got the monox so let's say we just got a new mono x so we want actually let's do a let's do a completely let's do a completely new printer that i don't own let's let's do a printer i wish i had how about the um let's see i have some frozen printers they have a the sonic mini 8k is coming out uh how about the mega ak i would lo i would love to have the the mega 8k uh so we just launched the sonic uh the frozen sonic mega 8k and we noticed that we don't really have any brands or resins or settings or anything like that so this is a process we have to start with we have to tell the slicer what type of printer we have and then we have to come up with a way of figuring out you know settings to start so i used to use um a printer by a company called anycubic called the photon now the photon is from a different age it's sort of like the dark ages of 3d printing and the amount of time that uv light would have to be on each layer was about 14 seconds or so well the technology has gotten way better and these new monochromatic screens have come out and now the layer times are you know two to three seconds in that range and so we need to know are we printing at 14 seconds or are we printing at two seconds and so when we add a new resin um lychee offers you some community-created um like it's basically a a bunch of settings that the community has sort of agreed are pretty good and some of these are great some of these are not great you just um when you first start you're just gonna have to kind of dial it in we are releasing our very own calibration method coming out very soon and um and this method is going to help everybody whether you're brand new or super experienced to get the easiest to read simplest method for dialing in your printer but when you first start it's okay to come in here try to find a um one of these that has a lot of this like this one has done five five prints um it's got 17 success so we can kind of like go through this and let's say 2.8 seconds and we want to use this profile so what will happen is we are now creating a a resin profile that we are going to use to print our first part now this is probably not going to work great at first soon uh or like soon you're going to get into calibration and all that stuff but we need to start somewhere so this is how you sort of like you pick your pick your printer you pick the resin profile you think is going to work best um and this is a part that we're not going to dive too deep into this any further um but it's it's pretty explanatory you go in you pick your resin you pick your color you see what other people are doing you can kind of start there so let's say i'm going to delete this because i don't actually have this printer um so let's say you find something that works today we're going to be talking about the sonic mini 4k um i i tend to use this frozen aqua 4k gray and for testing i always use 50 microns so these are these are my settings here so if you have the the sonic mini 4k and you use this resin take a screenshot take a note these are the settings that i use um so now let's talk about a little bit of detail in regards to um like what do these settings do how do they work um and what does it all mean is this this is a really important aspect of 3d printing if you don't understand the variables involved with with the prince when you have a failure you're not going to know how to solve that failure and it's really important that you learn that as quickly as possible so let's talk about some of these some of these settings so on the sonic mini 4k we have on the left side is called burn-in layers the burn-in layers are the very first layers that you print these layers very specifically are designed to make sure the print sticks to the build plate right if it's got a weak adhesion to the build plate you might find that your print is stuck to the fep sheet and nothing comes out of the vat and then you have to clean and empty and do all this process so these first layers are very very important these first layers get a very long exposure time so you can see my normal exposure time which is how long the hey thanks so much uh slice i appreciate you coming by um i'll post this video to youtube and you can check it out later um so exposure time specifically is how long that light is actually on and exposing itself to the resin so my normal layer exposure time is only 2.8 seconds my burn in layer time exposure time is 25 seconds so you can see it's it's a little over a little under 10 times longer that that screen is on we do that because we need those first layers to stick to the build plate and the longer we expose the harder that resin gets and the harder it will stick to the build plate the transition layer count this is sort of a new thing they never really had this uh in the past and this is a fantastic uh setting that's on a lot of printers now this transition layer count is if so let's say we have six layers for our burn-in layers that's our first six are burning in at 25 seconds per layer the transition layer count will actually take the next layer and it will be and i'm going to make up some numbers but you'll get what i mean is it will be the next layer will be 22 seconds and the next layer will be 18 seconds and the next layer would be 12 seconds and then 7 seconds and all the way down so what it'll do is it'll go from 25 seconds down to 2.8 seconds over five layers what this does is this allows for a less a less harsh transition from a really hot long exposure to a much shorter exposure bearded said our bottom layers in addition to the models layers or are they first layers of the model exposed longer uh super good question that will become very apparent when you start to see a prepared model 95 of time maybe more those first layers are going to be part of your support structure and not even be part of the model at all we don't print with models directly on build plates very often and as we start to get into the support section that'll that'll just become abundantly clear to you so those bottom layers are usually part of a raft that holds up the model as opposed to the model itself hopefully that answers your question so those transition layers will instead of having it go from 25 seconds right down to 2.8 seconds there's a big gap there and what can happen is those layers like there's a lot of temperature variants happening inside the the printer and that difference between the exposure between those layers can sometimes cause like a delamination so the layers won't quite stick together very well because they're just so different from each other and that transition layer count will sort of like gradually bring those numbers closer together and give you a better chance for um for adhesion between those next layers so um light off delay is um is how long the light so it prints let's say it the build plate goes down it turns the light on for 25 seconds the light off delay is how long the light will be off between layers so it'll turn the light off for seven seconds the build plate will pull up come back down it'll wait probably wait and then turn back on and then 25 seconds then it'll turn off and then the build plate will go up and down it'll wait at seven seconds then turn on the reason it does this is because that the act of resin curing is is exothermic so it creates heat and that heat needs to sort of like relax a little bit so to speak and so by leaving that light off for a little bit you can kind of get the temperature to to regulate itself a little bit before turning back on creating all that heat and and then starting all over so when you have the light on for that amount of time we want to make sure that we're not overheating our lcd screen that screen is a consumable part you will have to replace your screen after so many hours and those hours are essentially equate to like how much time has that screen been subjected to higher temperatures the lcd like the liquid crystal doesn't get along with heat very well and so eventually it will die and eventually you'll buy a new screen and then you'll replace your screen but the longer the cooler we can keep that screen the longer the life is going to be so some people will turn this off they want to go go go go and that's fine but you're you're shortening the life of your screen so i prefer to keep my screen as long as possible and i keep a seven second layer the lift distance is how far will your your build plate lift off the fep before it comes back down if you have a really really big 3d printer that lift height will have to be taller that the phet film is kind of stretchy and it will dome up as you start to pull that it'll it'll pull that with it hey julian how's it going thank you i know it's super late there it's it's probably 2 probably 2 30 in the morning over there so i'm so glad you at least made it and said hi um so anyway your you know your lift your lift distance is is relative to how much your fep sheet is going to stretch as it pulls up on the on the printer the speed um i don't mess with the speed very often but it's how quickly it's going to lift up if you lift up too quick um you could you could kind of damage the part if there's a lot of um if there's a lot of connection yeah super late um i think thomas said he he would wish he could make it and um if you guys don't know um julian works for um the lychee team and i'm actually i'm this might be the first time i've spoken with them but um they're always super nice and they come and if you guys don't if you guys don't use lychee slicer you need to but if you have lychee slicer you need to join their discord so i i have i have questions occasionally or i'll notice something that i'm having a struggle with and i'll go there without fail every time one of their team is is there to respond and message and help me out or let me know that it's it's being looked at or that it's a known issue so um thanks for thanks for coming um i don't mess with the list feeds very often um i would i would recommend personally maybe don't go over a hundred now there are some other settings out there that you can start messing with but for now if you're a beginner don't dive into the deep end keep it real simple get your prints working and reliable then go later once you're really once you're really proficient with your printer you understand all the settings you understand the differences then you can start messing with those trying to dial in speeds you can you can tune some of these to get faster prints and whatnot but um i like the the reliability myself so i just kind of leave things uh yeah please julian if you have a link to the discord feel free to post it um so that's sort of like the beginning when you start your first layers these are all the settings uh relevant to your first layers um the normal layers that's everything beyond that so you might have two thousand layers in a print these burning layers were only talking about the first six to eleven in this case um yeah there we go if you guys um need help with lychee um you can definitely hey what's up um you could definitely go to their link like i said their support is amazing if if anything like even if you don't use some of the advanced features for lychee pro i would still support their team they do an amazing job so let's talk about these normal layers somewhere yes so um i'm gonna i'm working on names guys i'm sorry mr fit okay mr fister i love it um i think i think there's always going to be people who prefer um one slicer over another and uh and that's okay like it's okay for you to you know like some people like forge some people like chevy like it's okay to have your preference i'm not saying that ch2 box is a bad slicer it is the slicer i used to use and lychee is the slicer i now use um they they're they might have their pros and cons so when it when it comes to which slicer do you use when changing those lift speeds i think the end result is the same so it doesn't matter which slicer you're making those adjustments with i believe because the printer is doing the same thing regardless of what the slicer said so if in chi 2 you set the lift speed to 120 millimeters a minute it doesn't matter that you did it in chi-2 the printer itself does exactly what it's told by the slicer so by all means you're welcome to check out chitoo box um just not just not my personal cup of tea but uh go well until okay so bambridge says how do you deal with the ugly bottom side i find my prints go well until the bottom nearest to the plate then look a bit sloppy um that's one of those things i i'm i'm mostly like i'd have to see pictures i'd have to i'd have to sort of get a sense for what you mean um we can touch on some of the things that um that might be specific in detail uh but that could be more of an advanced like understanding about what's taking place uh we should also um carry if you're still watching or anybody from our discord actually you know i'll just i'll take care of it real quick i was gonna ask for a discord link if you have some some questions or you want to um maybe post specific examples of of things that you mean sure okay bambridge jump on our discord this is the table flip foundry discord and uh and you can post some pictures in our resin printing uh chat and after class i can have a look at them for you and i can i can get a feeling because there could be a few reasons why that could happen and rather than speculate um i'd rather take a look and then i can help you sort of dial that in but we can definitely we can definitely um address that so anybody who's in chat if you guys aren't aren't already you should have a head over to our discord we've got a super friendly community um if you are the type of person who just likes to talk to other people who like the same thing that you like we got you if you are struggling with printing and you need help we got you if you want to learn how to paint we got you if you want to teach us how to paint we're here to listen if you just did an amazing print and you just want to brag about it and have some people tell you how amazing it is we got you we got places for that too so um please if you're if you're interested at all you ever want help we've got a great community feel free to join let's get back into some of these these settings so normal layers are the ones that are the most like we'll say most important part of our i think it's very hard to help absolutely yep uh hmb doc says is it okay to post looking for help with other people's models we actually don't produce any models at all so everything is other people's models so any help you need whatsoever it doesn't matter if it's somebody we work with somebody we don't work with our community is for the community it's not uh necessarily for any particular artist so we do have a lot of artists there so if you need something done or you want to see something new or you're looking for a certain model or a certain type or you have requests like you can definitely answer those or ask those questions but anybody any any model anytime anywhere bring it over and we'll we'll all do our best to see if we can help you out okay so normal layers ninety-five percent of our print is done with normal layers not with burn-in layers and so this normal layer is uh these settings are super super important for your level of detail in your model so layer thickness is the first one this is you know when the build plate comes down and then creates that little gap between the fep and the and the build plate and that's that layer that the resin is curing in that's what this layer thickness is so the the bigger the layer the more noticeable it's going to be so when we're talking about high detail we want a small the smallest layers we can get so that comes there's pros and cons to having really fine layers so with really fine layers you get more detail right which is a plus but you get longer print times which is a minus also the lower the detail the more time your screen is is being hit by uv light so if you print everything at a really fine detail you're going to get less um prints for your screen life but the prints that you are getting are going to be very nice and highly detailed i'd say the average like most people are comfortable at 50 microns so that's what this um is you might also recognize this at .05 millimeters if you come from fdm printing this is probably going to be a more familiar number to you so a regular fdm printer will print in point one or point two or point three millimeters usually point two resin printers print far far far finer detail than that um so for basic stuff even for myself i print at 50 microns for work on our etsy store for my customers i print at 25. um i try to provide the best quality product i can to our customers so for today we'll just talk about we'll talk about this 50 micron this light off delay is the same as the other side it's just how long is that light turned off between layers i i like to keep that screen alive as long as possible i don't crank that up or down in this case um i'll get i give the time the screen some time to cool down exposure time arguably the most important setting you can you can set on your printer if this exposure time is wrong your print will look really mushy or it will not print at all so this setting is the quickest way to ruin a print um so we we need to do everything we can to ensure our exposure time is as close to correct as possible in this case in my conditions with my printer 2.8 seconds for a 50 micron layer it's just chef's kiss um the lift distance um oh there's another question bearded said is there a way to make that heat work for you in the house that goes down to six oh the heat already is encased inside your printer so unfortunately no um there are methods for controlling the temperature inside your printer i personally built a room inside my basement and all of my printers go in that room and i keep that room temperature controlled a lot of people will make a like an enclosure and then we'll just monitor the temperature inside the enclosure um let's let's talk about this because this is a really important aspect of uh thanks man um this is a really important aspect of of resin printing is temperature temperature correlates um very much with exposure time so um if your temperature let's say in i'm in nebraska and during the day in nebraska not today or recently but during the day it might be 50 degrees during the day but at night it'll drop down to 5 degrees we have occasionally very wide ranges of temperature well i do have that room but i do have an exhaust fan in that room that leads outside and i had to do the same thing colin and so because i have an exhaust fan in that room i get some cold air that comes in and red that's that's something i just learned about we'll talk about that here in a second so that room can drop 10 degrees in temperature even with a heater going so let's discuss like what is what is temperature's relationship with resin and how does that work when we're curing into an opaque resin a resin that you can't see through that light can only penetrate that resin through the pigment so far so the thicker the resin or the heavier the pigment the less light penetration we're going to have and we may not be able to expose the layer height that we've asked for um quite so well with a thicker resin so you'll notice a lot of the 4k resins and probably now the 8k resins are getting thinner and thinner and that's because those those when the resin is cold those molecules sort of tighten up and get closer together and penetrating light through that can get harder so there's like a sweet spot like we don't want it super hot and we don't want it super cold so there's a sweet spot i find that 70 degrees 75 degrees fahrenheit is like the sweet spot if i can get my room in there then i know my settings are good for that temperature and we're good to go but what will happen is if if it gets really cold outside or it's super windy and the wind's blowing into my my exhaust fan the the temperature can drop from let's say normally mine 77 down to like 67. when i wake up the next morning my prints will have failed and that's because the resin cooled over the night and got thicker and because the the resin changed my exposure time needed to change but it was in the middle of printing it doesn't adjust its own time in the middle of prints and so it probably would start out like perfectly fine and as the temperature dropped you would start to see failures within the print so it is very important that that we keep a regulated temperature in the room if that temperature is 68 degrees that's totally okay you can make that work it just means your exposure times are going to be a little higher in order to compensate for the difference in the thickness of your resin due to the temperature so there are ways that everybody gets around it and red hookah just said like one that i've just learned about i haven't tried it myself but it's genius um there's something called a brewers belt which is like a um a silicone belt you can wrap around your vat and it is a heater i guess for brewing alcohol and uh and you can hook that up so that it maintains a certain temperature in your vat so that the red the resin itself is um is uh is set at a specific heat no matter what happens in the environment so colin just said maybe in the future printers will come with a small heater and a thermostat as an option there is elegu actually created one at one point i believe it was elegu but they never that you can't find them anymore there is a diy and we can see if i could find it they had it on thingiverse there is a diy system you can you can buy resin heater um that you can build yourself and i started one i just never finished it because i changed my room so you can actually build this little heater yourself and put it inside of your your build area inside of your printer and this has a thermostat and a and it will turn on um one of the members of the tff discord wrote a guide oh heck yeah if we have that let's let's see if we can we can get people seeing that but i've built one of these and what it does is it monitors the temperature inside the vat or inside the build the build housing of the printer and it will sort of keep it within a certain range so you set it to 74 degrees it's going to keep it somewhere close to 74. um so i don't know of a company selling one of these but it's very cheap to build you can get these parts on amazon just absolutely dirt cheap i think less than 30 bucks and there's a few different designs for it out there so so you can build an enclosure you can put your you can put your printer in a cabinet and then put a heater in the cabinet you can build a little room like i did monitor the temperature in the room the the temperature is very very important that we keep it consistent at the very least so even if it's on the colder side that's okay because when you're printing you've got it set you've got your exposure time set for that temperature but if your temperature changes dramatically in the middle of printing you're going to find it very difficult to to get really consistent prints so i'm not saying use these settings if you have a a frozen 4k that's that's not what we're getting at here um these settings work for me my temperature in my room is usually 75 to 77 degrees i happen to use this exact resin so um these settings may not be perfect for you but it might be a good starting place and and then that's sort of like where we can go from so um if you keep an eye out on the on the twitch i will announce our new calibration part we call the cones of calibration um that will be releasing to the to the community soon um and that will be like a method for dialing in your your printer to a really good tolerance for printing minis so that's coming down the road okay cool so that is the basics of how our 3d printer works right we we understand you know there's a light the light shines through a screen the screen blocks out certain parts of the light and only lets certain certain sections through those sections correlate for the they correlate with the certain layer of the model the settings um a great calibration tool that i use actually let me i'll tell you what i use but um crazy mad scientist has is is a mid like deep dive into calibration parts but i personally currently um when i'm not using our calibration part um the amerilab city is a really good um a really good option i find that that just was enough i knew what to look for in that and uh it gave me a pretty good um idea of where to go once we release ours like i'm not saying we're gonna like make that part irrelevant i think that part will sort of complement the way ours works um but she might have some other advice she's printed i think everything under the sun recently and she might be able to um answer that a little better than i can um all right great so that's it we are you know we understand the printer we understand the resin we understand temperature we understand the the importance of exposure time and and lift speeds and stuff like that so let's talk about actual printing like what is necessary for actual printing so let's bring in a model let's let's look at something fun today um there is a a new it's a newer patreon they're only like three or four months old but they have really really great models in my opinion um the patreon is called red clay collectibles and this month they're putting out a set of i'm gonna use quotes here of mermaids because they're there's they're lacking a better term they're actually mer octopus um so let's bring one of those in this is a very complex model so we're not going to dig too deep into it but we're gonna have a quick look at um you know what does the model look like on our build plate what are our steps to like getting it ready to um to print and then we'll we'll kind of go from there so here we've got our model the model's on the build plate can we just hit print nope we absolutely cannot just hit print and go um we have to consider some physics so when we're looking at our slicer it's important to remember that our printer does all of this upside down so it'll take you a little while for your brain to just sort of like process everything is upside down when we're looking here um so the first thing we're going to look at is why can't we just print it directly on the build plate so we're going to look at it from underneath and we're going to have a um a quick look at how does the model stick to the build plate this is the important part so in order for a model to print on the build plate it has to have a portion of itself connected to the build plate in this case excuse me the very first layer are these two little spots so if we were to just hit go we would expect this whole model to be held up by those two little spots and that's just not possible right it would break off almost immediately so so those spots are connected to the build plate they will print just fine as we go up layers we notice that the next layer is connected to that first layer we go up again that one is connected oh now we have a problem all right these layers all connected to the build plate so they printed this layer was sort of floating in the air right there's no way that it can print because it has no connection at all to the build plate so we refer to these little areas here as islands they look like little islands in a sea of gray any time we see an island like that we have to connect that island to the build plate in some way and we do that using supports um i'm gonna for this for the sake of doing this understandably we're gonna swap this up a little bit here we go um okay so now we have some islands we need to add some supports to those islands so what happens here is we have now connected those islands through the support to the build plate so now we know those islands are going to print everything on this 3d model from top to bottom in some way needs to go back down to the build plate so if i were to say support this this tentacle well the bottom of the tentacle this is very bad so we're not we're not getting into the details of supporting but the bottom of this tentacle is connected to the build plate the top of this tentacle is connected to the bottom of the tentacle is connected to the build plate so the top is connected too but we'll also notice that there's an island here for the top this island won't print so we need to make sure we add supports to the island so now this island is connected to the build plate this tentacle is connected to the build plate and as it starts to grow they connect to each other and now both are connected to the build plate so this is like like one of the foundations for getting a print to work properly is that we have to understand that all parts of the model in some way have to track back down to the build plate now there are parts that i missed like these little tentacle pieces i didn't put supports on them so there's see all these little islands those little islands also need supports now those islands are connected to the build plate and as we start to go up as we start to go up in our layers you'll notice that they connect to the tentacle now they're connected to the tentacle the tensile goal is connected to the build plate everything's good so as we get into um understanding how to prep our model for printing we just need to understand that again all parts of the model fall back to the build plate so we're not going to take a look at that model that's a very very complex intricate model let's take a look at something a little easier we're going to start with just a cube and we want to print this cube um for whatever for science and so the first thing we look at is can we print this right on the build plate yes we can do we want to no we absolutely do not want to the reason we don't want to print this on the build plate is because this contact with the build plate is going to be very difficult to remove and with no way to get a spatula underneath it to pry it off um it's we could potentially break this cube trying to remove it the other part of that is if you guys remember we have a the first six layers are being cured almost 10 times longer than the remaining layers well when we expose that resin to uv light so long it will expand like ice cubes and it will get fatter so we'll get a little area around the bottom that sort of sticks out we refer to this as elephant's foot so you know elephant's feet get all mushed on the bottom right so the bottom of this will mush out and it'll no longer be a cube it'll be mostly a cube with this elephant's foot on the bottom so what we want to do in order to print this cube more accurately and remove it more comfortably is we want to lift this off of the build plate and use supports to hold it up so there's a couple ways we can do that when we talk about the auto support workflow we're gonna get into like how to do this front to back like this is the first thing i click this is the second thing i click for now we're just gonna do it this way for understanding so in lychee there's a utilities button right here that utilities button has the ability to lift the object off the build plate first things first we got to get that often that object floating in the air um okay so that's what we've done we're great let's have a look at the first layer first layer is gonna be here we are first layer okay so we know that this first layer has to connect to the build plate in order for it to print it can't just float in the air magically so here we go i put a support on this layer we're good to go right so no technically the whole layer is connected here but of course there's no way that this one pillar it's it's sort of like a building there's no way a whole building can be held up by one post we would need to hold the building up by multiple posts or pillars so here we are we've got some we've got some supports on the bottom of this um but what we have to start thinking about is whether or not these pillars can overcome um what for there there's two terms i'm going to use the weight of this or can overcome the suction of this remember when everything happens upside down the build plate pulls this off the fep and when it pulls it off the fap sheet it creates suction so we need to determine whether or not these supports are strong enough to overcome the suction of the build plate pulling this off the feb i can tell you through experience there is no way that will take place here knowing that can we make this print sure we can we can make this plant print by just adding a ton of supports around the bottom until it does overcome the suction but this is not optimal there are much better ways we can do this also every support we place on the the model is going to be a teeny amount of damage to that model and we want to limit the amount of damage we we make so the way we handle this is by changing the orientation of the cube so that we have less suction forces applying to the supports so let's say we take the cube and we just turn it on one axis now let's have a look at it here's the first layer this is a big big big difference right like we have way less suction forces happening on that first layer now so we can place supports down this first layer just like this and now we're now we're talking right that's way less to to handle but we do need to consider as the part builds and builds and builds each layer is more and more and more suction force can these supports hold up this suction force as the as the part starts to build i can tell you through experience no they cannot there's also other elements involved remember that the the part will always pull perfectly straight up but with these supports off center the part is going to tilt as it pulls up and that tilt can make these fail as well so while this is better than the first orientation this is also not the optimal orientation for us but we do know that we're getting a lot closer all of this is connected to the build plate the way it's supposed to be so let's have a look another way another way we can mitigate some of the the suction force at the beginning is by by tilting in two axis now let's have a look at our first layer look at that look how small that first layer is will this one support hold up the first layers of this of this cube like absolutely um i'm just going to call you cj cj um i can go into some of the settings like the pillar settings once we start digging into um once we start digging into a little we're going to do a little bit about supports but you can um let me create one like this you can right click it and then you can make it a support pillar and it will come perfectly flat so we went from having a cube that needed 30 supports to support the first layer to orienting that cube to where it only needs one support to support the first layer all right now we're on the right track but we know that one support won't overcome this amount of suction force so we we know that this isn't perfect but we're off to a good start so what do we need in order to overcome a wide suction force like that well we just need more supports so it needs more pillars and the way i would do that is instead of placing supports along the side of the cube i know that when you break these off there's going to be a little teeny mark in the cube and let's say i want to keep a really nice surface of the cube oh christopher all right i'll try to remember um what we can do is we can place supports along these edges here every couple of millimeters and then here's our trick the keystroke for this i believe is alt p and that will make him perfectly straight and then what i'll do is i'll go up these edges and i'll go up these edges so why am i putting the supports on oops that one's not very good on the corner here so the way i look at this is no matter where you put a support inevitably there is going to be some sort of damage to the model when when the um when the support is taken off the model there will be some level of contact that's breaking um i do have a little one hookah um i can't demonstrate it on this model but i'll show you on another one here in a minute um so knowing that there's going to be some level of damage what i'm doing here by placing this this point on the edge is i'm i'm i'm sort of like using the idea that no matter typically i want to say no matter what but it's not no matter what but typically you're going to see this edge from only one side for the most part and by placing these supports on that edge i'm only going to see half the damage i'll never see all of the damage unless i'm really dead on looking at it and so by placing supports inside creases or along edges you can sort of minimize the amount of visibility of the damage by sort of hiding it visually it's not a perfect science there you know there's always a pro and con and these are just things you'll want to consider but in this case i know that this nice big surface of the cube is going to have a perfect finish on every side so here we're looking at at the cube and we just have these three rows do we think that this will print i think that would print you know um i think this would probably print the only thing we'd have to consider is are the tips of these supports big enough to hold up the weight the bigger the contacts so let's have a quick look at that the bigger the contact tip the more it can hold right and all of these are very light contacts my light tips are 0.22s so this this portion of supports are very technical and these aren't this is not something i'm going to dive deep dive into right now you just have to know there is a correlation between the size of this contact and how much weight the support is holding up um the way this auto support method i'm going to be teaching today is designed it keeps that in mind when choosing where to place supports and that's super important and no other auto support system does this yet so all right so we know how the printer works we know how resin works we understand the importance of exposure time we now understand and hopefully this answered the question earlier about like the um the bottom layers like being like over exposing the model so we know that uh that by lifting the model off the build plate we can have a much better print and then or how important the orientation of the model is to its printability so um let me answer hookah's question here real quick let me bring in a model that's a little more complex we recently started doing some work for a company called infinite dimensions and they sent us some furniture and some of these things are um are like a perfect a perfect way to to get an idea for measuring so here's an altar for a church by infinite dimensions and um and we're gonna take a look at the bottom so you see how this checkerboard pattern showed up on the bottom hookah we can use this checkerboard pattern to measure um to measure placement eventually uh you do enough of this you don't need the checkerboard pattern anymore like you just have it in your head um but when you're first starting you can understand and i believe i believe this is accurate is that each one of these checker boards are two millimeters apart so the way that i know that is i'll place this support on the corner and i know that my support the trunk diameter of my support is one millimeter and i've got a gap between the two so here between this one and this one i have about a millimeter gap and each one of these is a millimeter so this is a method you could use for measuring support distances between each other however i don't know if they've implemented it yet i haven't looked into it personally but i know lychee is implementing or has implemented a way to measure um one support distance away from the last support you placed and i have to look into that i haven't i personally haven't messed with that too much yet but it is something i know that they're they're implementing there's like a little ruler somewhere where you can see how far away the last support you placed was but this is a cool little trick for for measuring and while we're here is this the proper orientation um for this altar right it it's not quite we want to take and tilt it on the second axis so that we've got one point down at the bottom um great okay so we've got a basic idea like what are supports how do they work why do they work where do we place them let's talk about the uh you know the table for this what i'm calling the table flip and for for lack of better terminology it's semi-auto this is a workflow that you have to go through in order to um to place these supports but it's us it's like step by steps how to do it um so before we get started we need to understand a few things that are just specifically important to supports and um and then like a couple of little bitty reminders uh yeah nick um absolutely i have some tips let me run over those tips for nick real quick support diameter exposure time are the two main characteristics of of su of whether or not a support comes off works doesn't work comes off easy causes a lot of damage so when it comes to settings for your printer i can't get into those details i'm not there with you in the environment or anything like that here's the thing and i'll demonstrate it on on this model if i am going to place a support on the model um yes doc waltz that's a that's a great tip heat will help you remove those supports but if you're having a hard time i don't i don't ever use heat to remove my supports i never need it right so if you have to use warm water something went wrong along the way but warm water is a great a great heat in general i used to have a heat gun handy where i could just warm them up a little bit and break them easier it's a great way to overcome like something that you can't undo now but here's the thing some people when they play supports understand that we want this thing to print more often okay and what they'll do is instead and when they make these support tips they'll make them very large and the larger they are the more likely they are to work and there so there's a problem with that if i do this whole model with all these super fat supports all the way around and i've heard of people using even like the default i don't remember the defaults for lychee the defaults for lychee are very big so some of these supports are even bigger like this this support at 0.6 millimeters is going to require yeah so we my advice we're not going to do that um we're going to set our settings down a little lower but we'll have to cut this off with with cutters or we'll have to break it off and when we break this off it's definitely going to leave a mark so here's a general idea for you now the math on this is not perfect but it's close enough that it will make sense if i have a support that is 0.6 millimeters and it's holding up this this circle i could do that and i could have a nice big 0.6 millimeter divot and i'd have to break it off but why wouldn't i use 2.28 or 3.28 three of these provide more contact to the model oh excuse me more contact to the model with less damage right so i'm providing more support by placing three but each of these three supports comes off without damaging the model no need for water hot water no need for heat and i've provided my model more support now this comes at a cost the cost is a little more resin but it's marginal you know one one support is not very much resin and and my end goal is the quality of the model right it's not necessarily to save myself as much resin as i can and so if you want to save resin go with the bigger support if you want a better quality and easier product comes off the supports very easily we need to we need to understand the correlation between the diameter of the tip of that support um and how much it's actually holding up i could place four supports here like this there needs to be one in the middle but ignore that for now so yes that's more contact surface on the build plate that's more contact surface on the model but because i've divided that contact surface across an area of the model it's easier to remove it holds up more and it damages the model less all at the expense of more resin but i'm okay with that expense you know so if you are supporting your own models and and you're having a hard time like breaking these model these supports off we need to adjust your your um your settings that said let me share something with you guys and i'm going to let me here we go here are my settings for um for lychee pro so my my light settings i use a 0.9 diameter on the support so that diameter is is here see how thick the diameter i call this the trunk so i use a 0.9 on light and that's just it um i use a 0.22 so here's the thing with the lights the light the size of the light support is the one that i adjust the most i adjust this based on my needs and we won't get into those needs right now we just want kind of like a a light overview right but 0.22 is a really good light diameter tip just remember if it's failing you either need more of them or you can go up to a medium so the diameter is 0.9 the tip di the tip diameter is the part that touches the model is 0.22 i leave all of my tip lengths 2.0 and i adjust them if i need it my medium is one one millimeter with 0.28 tip diameters the reason i have a difference between the the trunk diameter of each support is is not because they do a better or worse job but here let me demonstrate i can without looking tell which size support it is just by looking at the size of the trunk so when i have a full model fully supported i can tell which which support is being used just by looking at it whereas if they all have the same trunk size you would have to click it and then look at the setting so here i'm looking at the bottom i can tell this one's a heavy this one's a medium just by looking so i keep those different trunk sizes because i can identify the support size real quick if i don't have that right i wouldn't be able to tell if this was a heavy if this was a light if this was a medium i would have to click it and then look up here to see the tip diameter and i'd have to click this and look up here to see the tip diameter but with that fatter with that fatter trunk sorry with that fatter trunk i can tell right away so that's why i have the different um the different diameters there um so 0.28 is my medium size medium is far and away the most common support that i use i probably use two percent heavy maybe 10 percent light and the rest of them are mediums so this is my bread and butter right here the heavies should only be used in places that can't be seen easily or in places where the damage of the support coming off wouldn't be noticed like on a texture or something like that and they should only be used to anchor your model to the build plate this part of of the of learning supports is very important especially for our auto support system we need to know that in order to hold that model to the build plate we need a heavy contact on the model holding it in place all the rest of the supports are to keep the detail but the anchor supports are to keep it stuck to the build plate so i might only place a few of these .40 millimeter supports on the build or on the model but those supports are placed in a way that is super important for the success of the print so take a screenshot maybe i can i don't think this will work but i'll post this here i'm familiar with 3d printing pro i have not um that's that's sort of like he does the same thing i do i'm actually greg and i are are friendly we talk every now and again i have not looked at his support settings um not since i was very new at this in fact greg has been around doing this a long time he is extraordinarily knowledgeable when it comes to the stuff that i'm talking about um i have possibly a different idea about how to go about that does that make his wrong and mine right no absolutely not there are many ways to approach this i just have not um mr not nearly as much as the tip diameter it can but not nearly as much um but no so i haven't compared bearded to to his support tips um i have compare compared to one of my competitors um i choose a completely different method than they choose um viresh vrish oh man i'm stuck at these names i'm sorry um verisnatha maybe i pronounced that right and hopefully um i mean i i can't you can download it if you'd like i just posted a link to it you can download the image um the whole video will be up on youtube so you'll be able to check it out on our youtube channel which just look up tableflip foundry um so this will be available to you you can also join our discord and i think i have it posted in our discord as well let me grab you guys a link we'll post it again here um i don't want to get off too too far off topic here here's our discord you're welcome to join any questions i'm there crazy mad scientist is there a lot of like super helpful people are over there so if you have any future questions any more specific questions that i can't get to right now ask away you can be posting them right now and you'll be getting answers right now um so keep a screenshot of this take some notes whatever you need to do click the image join us on our discord um so nick nick is cool said i have used them and this is regards to 3d printing pros settings but i was getting very inconsistent success probably more so because i was using pre-supported models and not knowing yeah so here's the thing um this model is a model i pre-supported for an artist called velrok art this model prints perfectly for me i test print everything that goes out you may get this model and it may not print perfectly for you and that's going to have a lot to do with your exposure if you choose let's say you have my exact setup my exact temperature my exact printer if you choose an exposure time of 2.4 instead of 2.8 there is a where uh where how do you upon reading this whole message please head over to roll request oh um ignore that for now i i'm still like a new discord admin so ignore the role request section i think that was in the rules so please ignore that i'm so sorry about that i will spend some time this week getting it dialed in um okay so if you have a lower exposure time there is a high likelihood that this model won't print for you what's happening with the lower exposure time is that the tips of these supports are getting smaller and smaller because the exposure time is getting lower and lower and all of a sudden supports that are working for me at 2.8 aren't working for you at 2.4 this is and i'll go off on a on an hour long tangent and i'll try not to in this stream uh we can talk about this on the discord this is in my opinion one of the hardest parts about being a member of the 3d printing community is that we don't all have the same exposure settings right i'm not talking about the same exposure time i'm talking about the same exposure outcome so that's that's one of the things that make learning this the hardest is knowing how much exposure will get you the result we're looking for we aim to fix that right like my team at table flip foundry uh crazy mad scientist has been like my um my lieutenant in the fight towards figuring out how do we get everybody to understand exposure understand calibration where we're working really hard to make it much easier for you so that these types of things are more consistent so i know that 3d printing pro has some very light a very light touch when it comes to his support settings and i love that but it requires you to have a higher exposure and i don't love that so everything's give and take what i've shot for is the middle like a really good exposure with really good detail and a really good middle ground for for tips red hookah join the discord if you haven't already and you i think within the next couple of days are going to be introduced to something that solves that exact problem maybe you know what maybe i'll showcase maybe i'll show i'm going to showcase that now we haven't announced it officially but i'm uh did you i i'm unfortunately i'm i've got discord closed or else i'll get distracted okay so bear with me you guys are going to be aside from our test printing crew and a couple of choice friends you guys are going to be the first people to see this and um we're still finalizing everything we want to make sure that it's that it's working perfectly before we announce it but i'm so glad hookah uh mentioned this this is one of the key factors in calibration and current um in our current environment that i think is the hardest is understanding what we're looking at when we print one of the current calibration models so um so when we're when we're talking about calibration right or exposure we have two different we have we're using the same term for two different things and it's really important that we start to learn that there are two um there are two things we're talking about when it comes to exposure one is how long was the light on we often refer to this as exposure right but if we continue to refer to it as exposure we're we're not understanding what the end result is right so when mr says i use a 1.7 exposure he doesn't mean he he he's not he's not doing a 1.7 exposure he's doing a 1.7 light on time and what that's doing is that's causing a certain amount of exposure so this is the weird part right it's his light was on 1.7 seconds but his room was at 68 degrees my light was on 1.7 seconds my room was at 75 degrees our exposure is different mine is higher than his and so by using the term exposure to reference how long our light is on we have a hard time now communicating to each other that that we have the same outcome because i can go yeah i have a mono x i use 1.7 seconds what do you have you say i have a mono x i use 1.7 seconds and we forget to mention our temperatures we have different exposures we just have the same amount of time our light is on so what we need to do as a community is come together and understand that there is a perfect exposure that perfect exposure is impossible to achieve but we can get very close all we need to understand about exposure is coming as close as we can to the part we're printing being accurate dimensionally if we're printing a cube and that cube is uh let's look at the scale is 10 millimeters by 10 millimeters by 10 millimeters if we over expose this cube it's going to be slightly bigger than 10 millimeters that is not the right exposure if we under expose this cube it's going to be smaller than 10 millimeters that is not the right exposure now the time that our light is on is going to change for everybody we all have different variables in our in our printing experience the end result of those calibrations needs to be this part that is 10 millimeters by 10 millimeters by 10 millimeters actually being printed at that size and this is the thing i think a lot of people either don't understand haven't learned yet or haven't considered is that the all anybody talks about is how long is your light on what's your settings what we don't talk about is what's your result your result needs to be as close to accurate as possible so what we are doing is we have designed a part that helps with calibration ah guys i'm kind of nervous i'm about to show you something almost nobody's seen um with the express idea that it tells you without a shadow of a doubt whether whether or not you have the right results not the right settings but the right result so here's what we have i want to introduce you guys to the cones of calibration by table flip foundry so this is let me grab the the revised part here this is a new method of calibration that we have been testing for months that very specifically addresses the idea that your end result is the same as everybody else's have you guys ever seen um let me see if i can i can find one here have you guys ever seen a post like this so this says i'm not very good at reading these sps dude ads this is a nine point seconds on a blah blah blah blah right do i need to increase exposure so we look at this right and then somebody responds and says yes you need to see i have to i have made these posts too so here was what here was what really got here's another one here's one with the amer labs still messing around making sure my exposure knows all right can i get your thoughts guys let me let me say that there's no perfect even this with as much testing as we've done is not perfect but i put forth to you that if you have to ask after you've printed an expo like a calibration part whether or not you're calibrated it is not a good calibration part you should not be confused at the end and need other people's opinions about whether or not your result is correct i don't think that's the best way to go about it so with that idea in mind we designed this and we and we lovingly call it the cubes of calibration so the idea behind this is we are using your printer and we're using it's the cones what did i say the cones of calibration hopefully i said that um we're using your printer and the things we thank you so much next cones um we're using your printer to determine uh oh my goodness yes yeah it chris christopher if if your room is 90 degrees you need an air conditioner in your room in order to print or you're really going to lower your exposure time so the idea behind this is that we can predictably cause your printer to fail and succeed in the exact way we want it to okay so we we can make a support tip that's so small that we know for a fact it will fail and if it doesn't fail your exposure is too high and we can make a support tip that's so big that it's guaranteed to succeed and if it doesn't succeed your ex your exposure is too low so let me give you an example of what that looks like here is the cones of calibration with the success side our intent is for all of these cones to print most specifically this cone on the left if this cone on the left prints properly then we know our exposure is high enough for now okay here's another picture this picture is a little lower quality here on our failure side we have cones that didn't print we don't want them to we specifically designed them to fail but we have success on one side and we specifically requested that that success and we have failure on this side we specifically requested this failure if we are able to accomplish this we know that our exposure lies within a certain tolerance if if i am in nebraska and it's 50 degrees and christopher is in puerto rico and and it's 90 degrees but we get the same results it doesn't matter what our light on time is that's not our exposure it is it's absolutely self-cleaning yep it's not a it's remember we're not calling our light on time exposure we're calling our results the exposure so he is going to have 1.7 seconds and i'm going to have 2.6 seconds but the end result is identical now that we have identical results we can start talking about which pre-support settings work the best okay so this is a part where we're releasing soon we're on the last bits we're writing some documentation on it we're gonna make a video of it but this is the new idea um this is a way we can we can help the community find the same settings the same result so that we can predict what will work and what won't 90 degree oh my goodness man oh yeah man guys we we've had a i think we have a test team of like 12 people and they have put in so much work i cannot thank them enough um um this is yeah it should be less than 30 millimeters i think the um it at 50 at 50 microns it takes about an hour to print it is only 15 millimeters tall um so so in this case uh let me let me pull up our i have an infographic for you guys and i'm really proud of this infographic and i think you guys will like it um the failure part is self-cleaning christopher so it picks up all of the fails and catches it itself and pulls it right off for you so you don't have to worry about any of that all right so this is documentation i wrote the other day legends are told of 3d printers with perfect calibration i might run over we still have to we still have to go over our our auto support method um as you enjoy your seed in the table flip tavern a hooded figure approaches you with without a word hands you a small object a moment later he is gone your local artificer identifies this object as the cones of calibration this is a legendary object you guys it adds plus one bonus to all subsequent crafting checks and plus one bonus to saving throws against frustration this should help you guys not get so frustrated this is a really important part this cone right here is what we refer to as our success calibration cone this cone here is what we refer to as our failure calibration cone in reality the rest of these cones are not important once you're you once you are calibrated we're really focused on making sure this cone prints and this cone doesn't print um are they the same along uh alongside or graduated these are graduated so they get larger and larger or smaller and smaller but our calibration lies between our success and our failure the reason we have the rest of these cones is so we can if if we are not calibrated properly we can see how far out of calibration we are so if i go to print and you make sure that you print this part on the center of the build plate but here's an example i'm on the failure side of my print and i have a cone and a half that succeeded we know that these are supposed to fail so it indicates to us that we are pretty far out of calibration right let's say three or four of them printed we know we are really far out of calibration so the rest of these cones are specifically designed to help you identify how far out of whack you are in this case one and a half cones ish and and we know that we need to drop our exposure a bit now the amount we drop our exposure is going to vary printer to printer right a non-monochromatic printer is going to have a much bigger drop in exposure versus a mono same thing applies on the success side here we have a success side print where one of our cones didn't print absolutely season the season for my mono printers i adjust things at like .2 second or 0.1 second increments but if you have like the original photon you're gonna be adjusting um like four second increments or two second increments so it's it's different printer to printer but it gives you a rough idea how far out of whack you are so here's success with a failed cone this is the cone we care about it didn't print right so we know that because the success side didn't print that we need to add exposure so that's all outlined here we also add a little errata here to the calibration part occasionally you'll see some weird some weird results um it's very hard to indicate like why a result like this might take place for the most part they can be ignored because our main focus lies on this cone and this cone what we've narrowed down recently is this is most likely due to fep wear so when you're when your feb stretches and wears out you can get some some abnormal results but even with these results we know that in this in this failure part three of the cones on the failure part printed and it shouldn't so we know we need to lower the exposure same with this right we know we need to lower exposure so we can use we can use our brains deduce what needs to be what needs to be done so if you get a part that looks like this you have now yeah um that's been addressed next um possibly poorly mixed resin um i've got some ideas about pixel alignment and like the center of the cones and all that stuff but it's not um it's like i don't want people to get really confused by this you can just ignore exalt results like this and really focus on the calibration cones to be your your guide um so if you get success like this and you get failure like this you achieve a new feat your new feat is exposure time mastery it has no prerequisites you make this happen and you automatically get this feat your experience and ability to follow guides has helped you master exposure time settings on your 3d printer so we're going over some last stuff crazy mad scientist is doing a write up for her blog we're not going to outline in super high detail um when we release the part if you want some really technical info like her blog is a great a great place to go um carrie if you're still on you should throw a link to your website up at 2 am i can be extremely dense i look at this look at this bearded boom plus and negative so gotcha i was thinking i was thinking about you when i did that okay um so that aside i didn't mean to get into that tangent uh but i'm just i'm super glad all you guys showed up and and uh and just be looking out for that soon i think um i think we might be able to change some things for the better this may not fix everything that's happened in the past this may only help us in the future but i think this is like your start get a good get good and dialed in here and you're pretty much set and from there you can go off to um to like try some of the other calibration parts and maybe get a little fine tune in but this should be like a great starting place for for anybody whether you're new or advanced i've printed tens of thousands of hours across all of my printers and now this is the part i'm using to calibrate everything that i do and it's been working great so i can't wait to share it with you guys that said i also want to introduce you guys since we're here we have a mascot his name is puck um cj i would love to do that um but we need to be a hundred percent sure before we start dropping this to the community that we've dotted all the eyes crossed all the teas um that i'm not sending you something that hasn't been properly vetted made sure it's all good what i'll do though is if you join the discord server is i will release it to the discord server before we go out to anybody else no in this case you don't need to repeat the calibration all over the bed this calibration specifically is for exposure time so when you move this part around your bed you're going to have different forces from your fep like pulling off the bed and it will throw off the actual calibration so it doesn't matter what size printer you've got place a sucker in the center of the bed and it's going to get you an exposure time and that's what we're shooting for anything beyond that any troubleshooting beyond that this part isn't necessarily going to help you like dial in your level it's not going to do that your lift speeds it's probably not going to do that either but it's going to give you a really good exposure time i think uh yes this whole video will be on youtube later i'll probably try to chop it up in parts so the beginning part where i'm talking about the stuff you guys mostly know about about 3d printers will um we'll kind of chop that into its own video and then in a few moments i'm going to talk about this auto support workflow um that i developed and that'll probably be its own video too and then i'll be creating like a very specific video about the calibration part and then my understanding is uh and hopefully this this all works out this is not 100 but um the youtube channel 3d printed tabletop is gonna include this calibration part and a video they've got coming up too so it should go out to lots of people we hope so um real quick as part of our release for the calibration to uh the calibration the cones of calibration um you are also gonna get a free mini and if you guys i don't know if you guys have seen him hopefully you have i would think you have at this point we have a mascot and his name is puck and this is puck so this is our little mascot guy and uh yes bearded i think that is absolutely the idea i will revise as we get more and more people right now we have like a a test group of maybe 20 and once it's a test group of like a thousand there might be some things we have to dial in so it's definitely version 1.0 um so this this is our mascot puck he's just like um he's just a little little guy he's an adventurer he's got a little temper and um and he's sort of our mascot for table flip foundry and um we have over the duration of of like our community had a couple of people decide to do some artwork of puck so this is another artist they they did this for us um and then we also have one from one of our our members this is his his wife this is xiomar's wife did this so this is puck the adventurer and we have available for free for you guys when you get the calibration part we have an official puck miniature that you guys will get and the way that he is designed is he is also his pre-supports are calibrated to match the cones of calibration so you should be able to print the cones of calibration first get it dialed in and then print puck and then he should come out perfect and then you're good to go so um so he'll be for free included with the um with the calibration part just as a thank you for um for liking the parts so cool okay that's enough that's enough promo let's talk um auto supports so so auto supports is a weird topic right a lot of us and and let's do let's do an example we're going to look again at this model from the lions um the lions tower adventure guild which is the it's called the barbarian it's a kickstarter that's coming out here soon um it is a sort of like a pinup model so just be aware there's there's gonna be some some thickness coming on here but um let's take a look at this this is um it's it's sort of a larger model i'm gonna scale her for our purposes down to like 32 millimeters today um we're gonna make her like 35 millimeters so um okay so let's start with the workflow front to back this is you know the table flip semi-auto workflow auto support workflow um there are some elements to lychee slicer that are really important to understand before getting into this we recently like discovered a a feature of the slicer that was confusing us and some of the support staff at lychee for a while where i had gone in and and i had done an island detector on a model and and i had placed supports on all the islands and then i sent it out to the client and the client said hey what are all these islands doing here and i go no no i did this detector i placed the support on every single island there should be zero he goes man there's like 15. and i go and i took a screenshot of my screen and i sent it to him i was like man i'm not lazy i'm not just skipping these things i have no idea what's going on and and so it was just puzzling i went to lychee support nobody really had an answer nobody had experienced it before and i think that the um the nature of that was was that not a lot of people work in lychee the way that a pre-support worker does most people come in they'll do their their supports for their model they'll print their model they're done it's not really inspected and and passed around unless it's a pre-supported model so then um fast forward a couple months still no answer the same thing arises like carrie was doing some supports she got she nailed all this all the islands no problem i i bring it over to my computer i scan it i've got like 15 islands and so i sent it to her she's like no i i did all of them i said i don't know on my computer they're not there and um so all credit goes to our buddy xeomar who then says something that just opened everything light up and he goes what layer height yep what layer height were you scanning at so the way it works is lychee slicer will scan island detection at this specific layer height that so that that layer height i had 131 islands now that i'm scanning at 25 microns i should have more and so as soon as 100 so we had 31 more islands just by changing our layer height so as soon as he said that we went we ran the test and we go oh you're absolutely right it was layer height like i think carrie had scanned at 50 and i had scanned at 25 and the same thing had happened when i sent my workout to our customer he had scanned at 25 and i had scanned at 50. okay so this is paramount this understanding is paramount to now creating a workflow that takes island size into account when placing supports we now can scan these islands based on their size so i'm going to choose a layer height of 300 microns and do a scan i only achieved 45 islands what does that mean about these islands what that means is that these are our biggest islands and our biggest islands need our biggest support tips right so and from here it should be like it should all just come together all you need to understand is that we know that these 40 43 islands are our biggest ones so what i'm gonna do there's a workflow i'm gonna get into the workflow like step one step two step three but what i would do is not use the auto support function the auto support function doesn't really care about islands the island detector has its own auto support placement it will place supports on as many islands as it can figure out it won't take into account wait it won't take into account suction force it will take nothing into account all it does is it says there's an island got a place of support on it so it places whatever support we have currently selected so now we have 10 and this is going to be normal it can't place every so there's like some supports we just can't quite get a support on our chin right right so it just doesn't so here's the semi-auto we need to go in and add supports that didn't get that didn't get hit and this model happens to be very complex so i'm not going to go through every last detail of this model right now but the idea is that we just got 90 of the big supports done and we're gonna try to like here's a little one right we're gonna try to go in and maybe catch some of these and add our supports uh nick says is it really important to support all islands i often have some islands on hard to reach places like inside the mouth on the face under the clothes no absolutely not it is not 100 percent necessary to get all islands some islands are very small and if you were not to connect a support to it it would flatten out and be picked up later and it's so small that you would never even see it so it's not necessary to do all of them um when you're doing it professionally it's it's um it's necessary because there are plenty of people who will run an island skin after and be like hey there's seven islands on here your pre-support company is terrible people want to complain when they can complain right so for me it's really important we get rid of all of them um for you though no absolutely not if you think the the detail is small enough that you're just never gonna see it here's a prime example see this eyelid right here on when it's fully scaled up this little teeny eyelid creates an island you could just ignore it print it and you'll never ever see it but that's your prerogative you get that choice when you're when you're supporting something for yourself this is just gonna give us a really great idea of what what we need to look at um okay great so i'm not gonna go into these seven islands just know that you need to probably go in and add like a manual support because it can't figure that out but let's have a look at the next scan so i scanned it 300 let's scan it 100 let's see how many islands we pick up perfect now we have 59 islands they're all over the place again right but we know that these islands are smaller than the islands before so our tip diameter can be smaller and then we can add we can add all of our supports so let's scan again cool we got 44 islands we know those are smaller so we're going to make smaller support tips add some supports now you can stop there at 50 i always go down to 25. so i think you guys get the the amazing powerful part of this feature nobody really ever considers this feature this is just such a little known thing that exists within lychee there we go so we do have 31 supports left um and and these supports are just places that lychee couldn't figure out how to place yes yeah so this this like workflow you can tweak it work it whatever works best for you but in in let's say one or two minutes i was able to place 90 of the supports manually and not only was or automatically not only was i able to place them that would be really fantastic matter of fact it would be really fantastic if their auto support function scanned islands exactly in this way but for now you just do it you know i have i have a profile set up for a resin that i don't use um yes i'll explain the wrap here in a moment um i don't use the default the default so i just have arbitrary the the numbers like none of these settings matter at all all that matters is the height because i only use them for scan um bearded i'm not sure the question what layers are using what search level are you oh okay i always use the real accuracy um in my opinion you should never use anything less than the real accuracy um there are currently 30 islands on this model if i do the fast search it says there's only one island on this model does that mean there's only one island no there are actually 30 islands on here so you should always use real uh yeah i'm not sure sure yeah um okay so just because it was asked here's a couple of things to consider um i tend to tilt my models back like this what layers are you using what are the mythical layer heights you are using for the scans um okay these are just arbitrary they're just the ones that that i i hardly ever use this method for myself most of my work has to be done by hand but okay angelus has a great question let me answer this one previous i used 300 150 and 25. you can use as many increments as you want so you can do 300 250 200 to 150 you can as many as you want i use 300 150 25. um angelus angelus angelus um you can still do this um i'll show you nick i'll show you in a second uh angelus you can still use this with the non-paywall um non-pro version i recommend the pro version not only for this feature you can still do this matter of fact i gave this to a person let me see if i can find it quickly um who happened to be on our discord server and they were asking some questions and man who was that oh my goodness please find it quickly good gorilla perfect okay he was asking some questions and i said hey actually since you're new to this um do you want to learn this thing and and give me some feedback and tell me if this is helpful to you and if you think it's easy to understand and and he said sure so i gave him a quick 15 minute rundown on it and this was his next print so these are from eldritch foundry and he used the exact method i taught here and these were his prints they came out great he does not have the pro version of lychee and so he was able to identify enough of the supports to get a couple of good quality prints so it can be done if you get better at reading the model so like here's a here's two ways you can do it without the super high island accuracy after you're done and you want to kind of give it a going over um once you're good enough at at looking at these models you actually don't really even need the island detector i can tell you this toe is an island this toe is an island this hill is an island right there's not an island here but it needs a support island island island i can i can tell which which parts are just sort of floating in the air but you could also use this slider see all of these islands here i didn't need the detector to find them i was able to use the slider so even if you don't have this real accuracy you can still give it a once-over with the slider and see if you can pick up islands just using the slider by hand so here's an island uh okay nick what's the difference between the auto support function and the island detector function i will show you it's hard to say in words but i will show you i'm going to do this on ultra so we're going to do a generate on ultra so here's our ultra island detector or our ultra auto support now we're going to go to our island detector and do a scan we came up with 30 islands so even on the highest setting on auto support there were still 30 islands that were missed and we're currently at 300 microns so let's do let's redo the auto support on ultra um i'm gonna answer that question let me let me finish this up so here we did it on ultra at 25 microns let's do an island detector now at 25 microns takes a little longer because there's more slices we ended up after doing an ultra auto support we ended up with 142 islands look at these toes auto support missed all of these so can i describe in words the difference between auto support and island detector placement i can't really but i think this in and of itself explains it so in my opinion auto support is it tries its best to calculate suction forces i think and accommodate for force but it doesn't necessarily account for printability and islands and so when i'm doing oh the magic wand oh oh oh the magic wand is just a one-click it's just a one-click function so this will um like i i always turn these off let me let me reset for you real quick this is just a macro so when you when you click i'm feeling lucky it will automatically orient so it'll rotate this by hand in some way that it thinks is good it will automatically do so it'll it'll run auto support like i just did it'll then optimize the supports so so when it does optimize supports what it means is that it will do it will do a parent on the supports where it will try to combine them and it will do bracings on the support so that's what it refers to as optimizing the supports so all this does is it just runs a series of different um features all in one click but it doesn't use the island detector see it just braced and parented and organized and tried to orient this this model in a way that it thought was best but now that we've done that let's run this island detector 138 islands missed um okay i gotta do one question at a time bearded i'll get back to that um so let me return my model back to normal the other the next question is is it true that three ends of small tips of supports are able to support the same as one gross tip yes that is absolutely true it is exactly the um the idea that we use a table flip foundry is that we use more smaller tips to support the same one for that exact reason you stated because the smaller ones don't leave marks on the model priority number one table flip priority number one quality of the model you need to make sure that the end result is the highest quality it can be by placing large tips you're degrading priority number one i inferno i'm so sorry i do not know i have not used lychee in a couple years i'm sorry cheating in a couple years and uh and i have no idea if they have an island detector um okay so yes you're absolutely right three smaller tips if you consider like you could do the math where you're doing like pi r squared and figuring out the area of the radius and all that stuff but um if you consider a 0.60 has 0.60 contact diameter and then 3.28 have 84.84 contact diameter right 3.28 have more contact with the model than the one big one and three times less damage so it's like i can't i can't think of a single reason why you would do it this way personally right so aside from if you're really really worried about resin usage but there's still other ways to like avoid resin usage you could you could place your 0.20 and then a couple of little little branches like this and use a lot less resin but still have the same contact so bearded says is there a way to do what automatically um bearded says do you use lychee's parenting and bracing and if so do you change any of the preferences okay let's talk about that real quick i'm getting way deeper than i wanted to and i'm gonna run late but we're on a roll let's do it um let's look let's look at ah i'm gonna try to i'm just gonna pull a simpler model here that one has so much detail that i want to um i want to pull something easier okay i turn all of these off oh i forgot to answer the question about the raft yes use a raft um this is the part that'll actually be on the build plate and i use this raft specifically because of this ledge i can get a spatula underneath that ledge and pry it up really easily so this is the raft i use right here if you use the flat raft um that doesn't have that steeper angle like the let's say this for example i don't know who uses this way um with flexible build pits you can do whatever you want if it's easy to get off it doesn't matter which raft to use but that's why i use this one here's one um this one is based on support placement so see how this this raft is perfectly flat i have a really hard time getting this off a build plate so i use this one because it's got a nice steep angle i can get under there and just pry it off really easy i don't personally use the flexible build plates i know a lot of people like them i'm skeptical a bit and what i'm using is working for me just fine so um the other aspect is that i have like i don't know uh seven or eight printers and i don't wanna have to buy this build plate for all of them um so i i sort of like use the lowest common denominator which is anybody who doesn't have one and i try to make it as easy for them as possible to remove so this is the raft that i choose to use um you just use what's best for you though um this raft doesn't help the model in any way um so like if you if you want to use a different raft it won't affect your model at all i just use this one for for the ease um i feel like i missed a question uh let's see bearded says use light sheep parenting oh parenting and bracing let's talk about parenting and bracing i do use bracing i do not use parenting so i'm going to give you a couple examples here okay we're going to imagine an entire m actually we don't have to imagine let's let's grab a model let's grab a finished one [Music] i know what i'm looking for i just cannot find it here we go let's look at let's look at a dragon i need to do like a like a my personal workflow um for how i remove my build plates and how i keep myself clean and make the least amount of mess possible i'll have to do a tutorial video on on youtube or something okay so let's have a look at this model and and uh we in fact it looks like i forgot bracing so this is perfect that we're looking at it so the parenting option here is is sort of my issue with the parent option excuse me we're using less resin which is really good but the the bracing that's being done so close to the model makes it very difficult even with the medium supports to remove the model from the support tips the problem this is sort of like a more a really technical thing but the problem is is when you try to like peel this one up it's braced against the one next to it so you can't just peel this one you have to peel this one and this one but that one is also braced to this third one you have to peel this one this one and this one but those are both race to this one so you have to peel this one this one all of a sudden we have to pull all the supports off all at once because they're all braced to each other where when they're completely separate this this particular one is flexible and it can pull separate from the rest and so you can sort of take it and like peel it off the supports very comfortably and easily um it's yeah it also can um can trap resin you can have fusion if excuse me if you want to use parenting here's the solution i've found is to take your support tips and make them four millimeters long and then parent those and that'll keep the um that'll keep the tangle further away from the model and give you a little extra flex which will help remove the model i don't use this very often but when i do it's with a four millimeter tip so that it's separating that bundle from the model a couple millimeters extra and just kind of giving you a little better um it'll give you a nice support you'll save resin and give you a little easier chance of removing removing them as far as bracing um let let me recalculate here okay on occasion i'll break the entire model most of the time if it's a normal miniature sized model i don't i don't brace at all unless absolutely necessary um let's look at one i did recently okay so this model is highly complex but you'll notice that i choose where to brace to use the bracing function and i choose where not to use the bracing function uh yes so on this model and there's an option here in lychee is you can do selection heavy all of these supports that you see highlighted are 0.40s so these are all my anchoring points for the model and it's the there's a lot more anchors on this one than on a typical model because of the the nature of the nature of the model requires different a different level of of anchoring but um so let's talk about when i use bracing when the support has to go a long way is where i start to use the bracing the bracing option i mostly eyeball this there is no like quantifiable reason i use it but i know that this had to go 20 millimeters unsupported and um and so i want to i was hoping to uh here right i don't want this thing to just be hanging out there that long um yes there are benefits the stability of the shorter one is much stronger than longer when i have this longer tip it's thinner for a longer portion of time and it can it can you can have stability issues in certain cases um a case like this one here right sometimes you have no choice but to use something like this um but the the thinner it is the longer it is the the less stability it has during printing so you can get away with these but that's sort of like a high level lots of practice lots of understanding kind of thing um so i anytime i see a support that's really long like this this is where i'm i'm individually using the bracing function to spec like specify places that i think might be troublesome so that i know that these really tall ones are going to support each other and not get all weird and wonky when it prints um so hopefully that that answers that um are there benefits to shorter allow i answer that sometimes i find with the fanning that lychee wants to start the fanning really far down the support how does one fix that good question let's have a look so uh here we're gonna we're gonna make a support with fans the thing you're seeing me doing here where i can take and edit this is a paid feature for lychee so if you don't have paid ignore that part yeah shift is your is your key to select multiple supports you hold shift while you select them um okay so i'm going to do a fan off the bottom of this i place i'm the one that places where the base of the fan is so when i click and place the fan down i choose how far away i want that fan so sometimes i find one when fanning the leech that leaching wants to start the fanning really far down the support i choose the distance if i want it far down i can make it far down if i want it really shallow i make it shallow so that part is up to you so in order to make a fan you're going to do control and alt and then you'll click the location you want the fan to start and where you want the fan to connect your fan is often going to look like this or your i refer to this as the twig it's often going to look like this this will not work this will not support anything it's not strong enough to hold itself up let it enough let alone hold up this part so in order to fix that you have to have lychee pro and then you go to base tip and you turn the base tip up to make it fat like that now this is still a stretch right this is a really long way for a fat like a really i'm sorry really skinny support to go so what i'll do is i'll place multiple supports in a fan like this now what what we need to like keep in mind here is even though this goes from this base all the way up there it connects up to these points they overlap so now this bundle of fan supports are bracing each other up to the point where they separate and so this one which used to be really long now gets only has to go from this point to this point unsupported and all of a sudden we have a really really strong fan so um make sure i got all questions for bracing did you use a hotkey or oh yeah i answered that just hold select to to select individual individual supports and then you can hit bracing and it'll do weird stuff sometimes so like i do my best i wouldn't i would never use this brace here i would move the support in some place more appropriate or let's say i had to do this where it's really long like that i would intentionally place another similar support next to it even if i didn't have an island there even if this didn't need to be here but this one needed to be i would then place another one next to it so that it had a friend to brace itself on so that's a really good um just a really good trick okay so for youtube purposes i'm gonna go over this workflow from start to finish so that i can kind of cut the video here and just and just kind of clip it to youtube without having to to edit so let's bring in a model um we're going to bring in one of the rock arts models so here's our model um so i use this magic button but i only use it because it lifts the support or it lifts the model and adds a raft to it and that's those are things i always forget if i don't do this i tend to tilt my models back you can orient however you want from here we're going to go in and go to our 300 micron layer height so we need to create a 300 micron layer height a 100 micron layer height a 50 micron layer height and a 25 micron we're going to go to 300. the first thing i do with this method weird enough is i put auto supports on low i choose my medium settings and i go ahead and let lychee throw a couple auto supports down okay i these auto supports are pretty are pretty they're good and they'll help us with support on the model but it's not everything after that i'm going to go to my island detector and excuse me also to note this first step isn't necessary if you don't want to if you want to have a little more control over your your island placement or your support placement you don't have to do this i think it works well so i'm going to do a search at 300 microns i found 10 islands so here's what i do i do i start at a 0.32 for the biggest islands i would go in and i would try to find these ones and find a way to add a support to them this can be hard if you don't have lychee pro um but you'll just have to be creative with how you play supports okay so now i've got one more island it's up under here i don't know why it wasn't able to place the support i got one on there perfect so then we're gonna switch our scan down to 100 microns we're going to do another scan all right we've got 25 islands to support these are going to be quite difficult okay um i would personally place these by hand but we can go ahead and let the island detector do them for us there we go so you notice i i lo oh i lowered my um my tip diameter down a couple points um maybe you know 0.2.3 let's do a 0.29 and then we'll add those supports all right so we've got more on here this is not magic it's not going to be perfect um it's not going to solve all of your problems no support method will this is just going to get you 95 of the way there um so i'm just going in and sort of like you know loosely making sure i got islands on some of these extras where i think we need them we definitely need it there oh there we go okay uh so there's our second scan here's our next scan um a lot of you could just stop at 50 if you want you don't have to keep going we're going to stop at 50 today so here's our next scan perfect we got oh i actually hit the wrong button so we had 17 more islands but i hit the add support so it automatically placed i'm going to undo that because i want to lower my support tip so we're going to go to 0.26 and then we're going to scan again all right we have 17 islands let's place our supports we've got two islands that didn't pick up let's have a look all right yeah let's toss those in i'm gonna add two to that one and here's one of those islands we discussed earlier you could just leave it and what will happen is this will sort of flatten out here but you'd never see it it's too small of a part and if it's your own model totally okay to leave it in fact i'm gonna um and that's the deepest scan i'm gonna do today right so i i isolated the heavier islands and put heavier supports on them i isolated medium islands added medium supports on them and i just incrementally lowered the size of the contact tip based on the island size so this feature in and of itself is the key to why this is better than just hitting auto support right auto support and no program will take into account what it's supporting the size of the island it's supporting are the size of the model the only other thing you want to account for when doing this by hand is to make sure that the bottom of your model has enough anchors so i might go in and change a couple of these on his feet to heavies and then maybe an anchor on the on the ball there i often find capes can be high suction just out of experience so i might add a couple of supports just um just because i know that's a difficult area and i would say there's a very high likelihood that this just gets sent through um through a printer and comes out great um the removal may not be the easiest because you're gonna have you're gonna have to go in and and individually pull some stuff out they shouldn't be hard to remove but it's not just going to be like a like like a super easy peasy pri pry this off the supports kind of thing but this should get you in less than five minutes a pretty solid auto support that's better than the auto support function takes more items into account collects most of your islands and it took you almost no effort or know-how just just start at the 0.32 and work your way down three every time so point three two point two nine point two six you know point two whatever that is two two two three point two three um and that's it auto supported mini couple minutes in order for me to have done this by hand it would have taken me maybe 40 minutes half an hour so we were able to to cut the time down pretty pretty immensely so um i think that's it any last questions before i log off i know this was a long class um but uh hopefully i covered everything when lychee says it can't uh i can't support some islands that look easy to do i think it's related to the current support tip diameter um not the diameter but the tip length so let me see if i can actually demonstrate that yeah you're very welcome you guys very welcome let's see if i can i can answer that question real quick so let's do a search at 50 microns um and then we're going to play some auto supports and then i'll show you one thing you can you can look at so there's 12 supports left it can't auto place 12 supports so what i'm going to do is i'm going to change my tip length to 3 millimeters and then try again i'm going to change it to four millimeters and try again see at four millimeters it was able to place another island for me and then i'll change it to 1.5 millimeters and try again and sometimes you might find that changing your there we go two more supports got placed because i had a a one millimeter tip length um so sometimes you can kind of tweak it like that get a few extra auto placed and give you a little extra a little less work so um all right guys that's it thanks so much uh for hanging out um i'm super glad you guys came um go ahead and check out our discord let me post our discord again if you haven't joined already um i wish i could tell you like i can't put words into how great everybody is on our discord just the nicest group of people um that they're always willing to help give advice tell you what you're doing is awesome um you know anything you need we're gonna be there i am always it's on all the time for me i'm as active as i can be um we have people who do live streaming we have people who are painters we have illustrators we got a couple of guys who are battle map cartographers you can actually like ask them to make you a map and and they'll help you make a map you can check out our website at tableflip foundry.com we have an etsy store we're starting to branch out some of our stuff um we actually have a a couple let me see if i can pull it up for you guys um we have some merch that i just started rolling out so if you uh if you are so inclined and really want puck on a t-shirt uh you can order puck from our our page and then we're working on maps we only have one up right now um and then things like custom character sheets man check this out we have a an artist who hand draws these character sheets so if you have a fighter or a barbarian you wanna you want a custom character sheet for them you should go check those out um and then yeah i think that's it uh we will do like i know we got into some more detailed supports um some support related stuff here but there's way more info i can give you on how to hand place supports the same way that we do for professional pre-supporting um so if you really want like the highest quality you can get out of your model you want it to be removed easy you just want the best the best of the best i do teach a pre-support class uh it'll probably be next week most likely two weeks away um where i'll do that this video will be up on our youtube channel that's uh tableflip foundry on youtube you can find some really cool stuff over there i try to occasionally post some oops that's studio i don't want studio i want our channel i occasionally post uh some tutorials i did like an airbrush station if you want to build your own airbrush station um some vat cleaning options um you can see some old videos i 3d printed the entire wave echo cave so if you want to just see something stupid also we post our some of our pre-support classes over there so uh that's everything i got for you guys tonight thank you so much for coming and hanging out thank you so much for all the questions hopefully i got to all of them uh i love you guys very much i hope to see you on our discord uh have a good night i guess we're not starting soon we're logging out see you guys

Channel: TableFlip Foundry

Views: 129,478

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Id: T6vw8AEIUqU

Length: 148min 24sec (8904 seconds)

Published: Sun Jan 30 2022