DIY Drywall Part 1 | Before you Start You Must Do This!

hi I'm Jeff from Homer in division DIY and today we are in my kitchen renovation project we're here to talk about drywall and all things pertaining to a real successful installation but before we go any further I'm going to encourage you to subscribe to our channel if you haven't because you're not going to want to miss all of the videos were doing about this kitchen renovation it's going to be spectacular let's dive right into it we've already ordered our drywall and is sitting here behind me but what we're going to talk about today is preparation inspection how to measure how to order how to make sure that everything is ready to go before you start dry walling because the biggest drag we're gonna call it when you're installing drywall is having to stop to fix something or you miss a step or something that's buried in the ceiling so I'm gonna teach you my system for installing drywall quick and effectively and it starts with preparation so before we go any further I'm just gonna let you know that I gave my son Matthew the bulk of the work here and he's done a pretty fantastic job but because he's brand-new he's made a few little errors I don't expect that you guys have the same kind of situations so instead of just fixing them first when I have them come over and join me Matt come on in we're gonna go a quick little tour we're gonna talk about the kind of things that you're gonna miss on your projects that Matt also mix and then we'll show you some quick remedies and solutions to all these little things that'll give you a professional result so let's get going first of all nice I'm pleased now this project here is a little complicated because we've got I don't know 300 lights in the ceiling right we've got an 1880s it's balloon frame construction so we don't even have top plates everywhere we don't have continuous vapor barrier there's a lot of issues here so our our goal in this renovation is to get the house improved as far as the science of the construction but not to go too crazy right because we've got to find that sweet spot of making sense now first of all our let's talk about the strapping on the ceiling so generally we strap the ceilings before we drywall I don't like the screw right to the floor joist especially with dimensional lumber even if it's old because it has a tendency of wanting to move around and all the vibrations in the house will be transferred into every screw that you install if you put in strapping first like we've got then all the vibrations are transferred through much less fasteners okay and the drywall will sit a lot tighter and you'll find you won't get as many nail pops in time so basically we're not getting too crazy here strapping also allows us to install our drywall from one side of all right to the other so we don't get any butt joints on the ceiling so that's why we do this if we were to hang drywall here without the strapping we'd be hanging it this way and since the room is over 20 feet long we'd have butt joints everywhere and that increases the amount of work by putting the strapping on now we're installing our drywall this way drywall comes up to 12 feet wide our room is just a little over 11 feet so no butt joints and we'll show you what a butt joint is later in the next series if you're not familiar with that but what we mean is a butt joint takes three applications of mud and the regular side of the drywall only takes two so this makes things a lot quicker if you can avoid having butt joints strapping is great every 16 to 20 inches and we we spaced that out based on where the pot lights are gonna be located so when we go to drill our pot lights we're not drilling through the wood this was done well right we're all good to go there is one issue with this so we did a rough inspection with the electrical inspector and we had all pots lined up but since that we've decided we're gonna go three pendants over the island that's what I need you to do Matt is I need you to cut this wire and feed it through into that box just about two or three inches and then tighten that screw for me real quick that way I can wire that up later okay so you can just curl it around and bring it in the box okay there you go yeah those are the access you just have to bend it open and then wiggle it off there you go now generally speaking those boxes are already open in the open position so you can just feed the wire in beautiful and if you just throw two inches in there or so and then we'll tighten that up with the drill all right so that's awesome we've got the wires in can you just back the moat a little bit so that when we put the drywall on it's not causing them to be compressed in there okay and then here's the drill just tighten up that set screw good and then grab the wire and just bring all those extra wires onto that side of the back there you up into the ceiling there you go nice and tight like that beautiful so now you're not going to have any problem with the compression now you got your pliers up on this strapping that's how I lose most of my tools try not to do that all right come on down that's good we're set to go there okay so there's just two things that I noticed over here first of all this is awesome because you did the bottom part and there's this a joint it's taped this joint here now because of the age of the home and the fact that nowhere else in this house has got a continuous vapor barrier that sealed up if you're just doing one room I get it this will work fine but because we're eventually working our way through the whole house we're gonna bring it up to the standard of air seal so what I want you to do since it's full of staples and all that kind of jazz I want you just take the tuck tape and tape that joint together top to bottom and then on the bottom where we've got the vapor barrier coming down onto the floor I want you to get the acoustic seal and I want you to run with nice thick bead and press that all in and throw in a couple of sets staples okay gotcha beautiful Oh again using that as a shelf oh man you're gonna lose that night wasted or me I got to get you used to wearing a pouch yeah there you go sweet now there's two ways to seal up a vapor barrier when there's an overlap one is with the tape the other one is acoustic seal acoustic seal works great in situations where you haven't stapled it all on yet since this is stapled it's just faster for us to get it done this way just a quick note when you're working with this tape how much fold over the edge so that it doesn't seal against itself so just save a lot of aggravation okay so this is the acoustic seal basically it just kind of like cut the tip off so that it comes out in a nice thick bead sweet yeah so the one I put on the photo squeeze it nice and tight does that need to be punctured probably throw the puncture trick so I guess some of these caulking guns have a little like needle here it pops out it's always easier they get full of goop yeah it's kind of like stick it in there and poke it a few times it's gonna get a messy it's gotta be a better way to do that okay right up against the edge of that okay not too far into the room further back there you go and that's that's what I hear this stuff works great but man it makes it messy there you go so press it in now we got an air seal that is awesome so the secret when you're inspecting your job is go one system at a time first inspect all of your electrical then check all of your framing then check your air barrier and so on and so on and so on and if you do that and you won't be always picking up and putting down tools you can just keep on working through the room one tool the time so well Matt's cleaning off that goop I'm gonna just throw a few screws I'm using Florrie screws here into my strapping I noticed that the last row here wasn't done with a nail gun and want to make sure that everything is secured properly before you hang your drywall on it okay one other thing you want to inspect very carefully user insulation this is your last opportunity to see it so you want to visually inspect and make sure that there are no ugly gaps like right here okay if you have an ugly gap cut open the plastic get your hand in here and get that filled properly most times what it is is during the installation process someone will tuck it and a corn will pop out right the every action has an opposite equal reaction syndrome when you're done that make sure you get and seal that vapor barrier up again press it in there really good because this tape only sticks under pressure if you just touch it you know it won't be attaching itself it'll just fall off make sure you do that that's good up steps good and we have a problem over here but better address too so what I have here is a framing issue I actually are missing the last piece of this interior wall we should have a stud running along here somewhere to line up here so we have a intersection for my drywall now I asked my son to put in some blocking and he did that I should have taken the time to explain it properly because he's got it the short side here and what I should have is the wide side okay so Matt what we're gonna get you to do is pull the blocking set it where the installation joints are okay and then we're gonna go on on the wide side of where the installation joint is you pull the plastic and you can through your screws right here on an angle and you can actually screw right through into that board okay it's really easy to install you can set these screws before you put the board there and then once you get that done then you can take this insulation and you can just you know lay it in behind the board because there's just enough room because of the old framing right it's an actual 2x4 here so this hard 12 won't be compromised if you put it in behind this and then I'll give it a much better seal because by going underneath you're compressing behind it but you're creating these gaps you see that right where the cold air will come through so what we're gonna do is we're going to just throw in our laser level here and this one is a little bit different than the one I usually use there's my line right there so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna just throw my line on here I'll draw right over that laser line that'll mean that's where the front edge of that 2x4 is that we're gonna stick on and that's awesome sauce and then we'll throw a level on it when we install it after that so here we go what we want to do is we want to cut our barrier where the installation joint is because now when you go to change that wood you'll know exactly where it goes right in the middle and then we're gonna make like a cut it like an H so you got lots of room to get in there and work okay so now you can access your screws flip that over boom boom boom when you're done we'll just tape it all up okay awesome there you go [Music] [Music] we're just lining up our our stud on that laser line that I made with my my marker on the plastic always great to have markers with you when you're working order your vapor barrier it's so much more effective than pencil okay no it's the level on it I'll do the level and I'll tell you when you can hit the top for me first yeah there we go all right throw a couple more in for good measure just to make sure that it's not going to twist on it okay so our inspection is complete we've got our back framing or vapor barriers taken care of our lighting or strapping everything is all done we're ready for drywall and we aren't gonna have to take our hands off the installation tools once we get started that is a huge goal you'll be surprised how fast installation will go if you don't constantly have to stop to fix little things the other side of it is a lot of people when they're dry walling if they don't have everything prepped perfectly first the drywallers are just skipped right on past all those little mistakes and they'll remain there forever so if you're doing your own renovation and you're contracting out the drywall that inspection is golden don't expect the drywall er to come in here and do any of that work for you it'll never happen now what we want to talk about is ordering your own drywall okay remember we talked about strapping the ceiling so we can order our drywall and what we want to do now is just measure the width of the room it's a little over 11 feet okay which is good now drywall comes in traditionally eight nine ten and twelve foot sections depending where you go we just go like that and that's easier okay so what I do when I'm doing my order is I'll start I'll make a list like this twelve ten nines and eights in a lot of cases I don't buy nines but every once in a while it's really handy especially if you have a nine-foot ceiling all those short walls it's just perfect right so we have eleven feet across and we have 20 feet to the other direction so wait wait it's gonna look as let me just draw this over here's my room okay so I'm gonna have a sheet that's four feet wide another sheet that's four feet wide and so on and so on okay there's five of them that's five times four feet wide twenty feet long then it's 11 and change so by a 12 foot and we'll cut one end of each of those that's how we do this so I need five one two three four five now this long wall is going to be installed with drywall on the horizontal not the vertical never install drywall vertically if you are dealing with old frames because they're not parallel they're not leveled or they're not straight you want to go horizontal whenever you're dealing with with a structural number if you're in a house that has steel framing you can go vertical because they always install it perfectly level and you can always adjust the screw if you need to what does not give you that flexibility so we have 20 feet then we have two choices we can put a 10 and then a 10 on the top part but then what do you do let me just draw this out so here's my whole long 20 foot wall if I put a 10 foot in another 10 foot I have a joint right here then the next sheet I want to stagger the joint it's one of the rules of drywall you don't want the butt joint in the same place so I'd want to joint there and then what am I gonna do with this have two joints on a wall when it's not needed so what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go with 12 feet with an 8 okay and then I'll go 8 feet here with a 12 that offsets my joints that makes em nice and simple I only have one joint in each wall perfect keep that in mind so I need two more 12s and I need 2 eights and you continue on through the room like that measure all your ceilings first get all your numbers that ceiling there is 12 feet long and it's 10 feet wide so I know I need three 10s for the ceiling that means the wall is also 10 feet wide I got two ends of that so I need two for each side okay that makes life simple now I've got all my major walls already ready done they ordered the only thing left is all the short walls now hey your wall is less than four feet which would be here anything four feet and less you can order one sheet to go vertical because now you can span from the corner to a corner with one sheet so you're fine anything under that so I just walk through my room and I pick out all the small ones I go that's a that's an eight that's an eight one two three four five six seven eight boom and I go on two three four five six seven eight now I've got on my driver water no the last thing I do before I order my drywall I always toss an extra couple eighths on there because things happen alright damage happens you miss adding something it's just nice to have it around better to have an extra couple of sheets on the site when you're dry walling then be almost finished and have to go back to the store and pick a couple up especially if you're getting it delivered because you don't have a truck alright so now we got the drywall let's talk about how to carry it where you going to put it on the job site and how to load up the room so that you can install it without having to move it over and over and over again to get it out of your way okay so as I mentioned I'm working in my kitchen but let's just talk about a few other things that are really important because this information is useful no matter where you're working in your house there are a variety of different dry walls in the market now traditionally we use what we call half-inch standard regular ultralight all these different terms are the same thing there's a half-inch basic drywall that's for residential construction whenever there's no consideration or annal requirement by building code for fire safety or water or moisture control so most of the house is going to get that half-inch if you're working in a bathroom you might have a code requirement for using a green water and mold resistant board those are options as well and generally speaking we it's only specific to a bathroom some people use it on the back wall of a kitchen if they're tiling and expecting that there's a sink there for water damage that's an option as well the other kind of drywall it's most common is the 5/8 drywall it's what we call type X now in the back of this drywall you can see it's just got a print the date and manufacturer and that's it on type X drywall the drywall itself has got a band written on it and it actually says type X drywall on it that's for the inspectors when they're doing a tour of the job site they know yes that's fire rated drywall and it'll ever say whether it's 5/8 or 1/2 inch because they're different ratings for fire code we don't wanna get in too much of that right now but in most residential situations if you're using type X fire wall board it's because you're in a row house or you have a semi-detached and your neighbor the building code requires a fire separation while between the two dwelling units okay so if you have a bathroom that you're renovating and that bathroom wall is on your neighbor's side of the property and you're sharing that wall that drywall has to be type X so you want to put in your fire rating wall first then put in your moisture board okay very important you can't cheat there because it's a matter of liability in case something goes horribly wrong now the only other time you're gonna use 5/8 drywall is if you're using sound control measures if you're putting insulation and you want to help make things a little bit more dense you can add one or two layers for soundproofing and if you want to learn about soundproofing we're going to put a link in the description because we've got a few videos that are awesome information about soundproofing and it's really important to have that understanding before you go close up because there are issues there that you might want to address in your house as well now that we understand all the different kinds of drywall that are out there let's get busy with the next step so when I'm bringing drywall into a house I like to stack it up against the wall not on the floor and that's generally because it keeps it a lot cleaner you'll end up using it as a ladder and it's just not necessary if you're using a drywall lift to put your drive one position you don't want anything on the floor in the room that's what I like to use I'm a big fan of using the machine to lift my ceilings in place now I know I'm gonna get a lot of comments from contractors out there going ah we just lift it up and hold it somebody else screws the board and that's great if you got two or three guys on your crew but this system works amazing for homeowners you might be by yourself or have one a guy helping you and you're not used to working with it you don't want to be lugging that around and causing yourself injury because you're using muscles you don't usually use so rent a drywall if if you need to and if you want to see a video about drywall lifts and some of the different ones that are on the market check the description below because I went out and I bought the one that was for sale on Amazon and we did a comparison test between the North American made product and the one that comes across from China and you're gonna be surprised at that result it's worth the look but anyway let's get back to this I like to bring my drywall into the room and put all the short ones on the wall first because the shorter the drywall the less important it is to my installation and usually gets installed last so I put my eights first then my tens then my twelve the reason for this is I'm gonna start installing my biggest part of my ceiling first which is all my twelve footers and then I'm gonna install my other ceiling which is on my 10 footers and then when that's all done I'll come back with the eights and I'll do the little touch-ups I put it on the longest wall because this is the one that can stay to the very end and if there's a couple of sheets left over I can set them aside and then we'll put those on later but I have all my drawing one place now my card can go anywhere in the room and I don't have a you know obstacles and I don't have things to trip over and I'm not constantly moving drywall from one section to another while I finish the house so put it all in one spot have one place to work and you're golden no all right so when this stuff gets delivered it's gonna come generally in groups of two like this sometimes you know that'll come in singles but most the time it comes in groups and it has a piece of cardboard underneath the paper and it's designed to tear that paper off so the sheets can be separated so generally speaking you got three options for every one is you go there with the truck and you pick it up yourself now you need a whole lot of truck to be able to put 12-foot sheets of drywall in there without having an accident on the way home and an average renovation space like this is 20 to 30 sheets so it's a lot of weight I generally try to have it delivered and I have a truck so and I know in some of my videos I've harped a little bit about on the box stores because of their prices but when it comes to building materials like drywall generally speaking the Home Depot and the lows are the greatest deal in town they have the lowest price per sheet now if you're just going in for a few sheets and you get a great deal you throw in your truck you drive home great if you're looking for long runs and you're getting it delivered then you start looking at options you might be able to go to a drywall contracting firm where all they do is drywall delivery and insulation and you can get a price there now their price per sheet is going to be a lot higher but they have additional delivery services that you want to balance out when you're looking at that they'll put it on a truck and sometimes they'll not just deliver it to the driveway but they'll walk it right into the house for you for about a buck a sheet or even better sometimes it's 50 cents so checking your your competition the area you live in because you might be able to get a deal where the overall cost of the project is lower if you buy more expensive drywall and get better service and the reason is this carrying 30 sheets of drywall off the truck and into your own house sometimes can take an hour or two it's exhausting and you might find yourself too tired to finish working for the rest of the day so if you want to be effective and efficient you can have it delivered and have a couple of young bucks come running it in the house and drop it on the wall for you you just got to tell them how you want it set up and they'll do it for you you're good to go then you take your drywall lift and you can get everything installed in the same day and it's not quite so exhausting so we're gonna just demonstrate a couple of tips here on ways to lift and carry your drywall that'll help reduce fatigue and it'll make sure that the wind won't blow it away on you here we go we're just gonna pick it up together straight up and I'm going to turn around and reverse my hands now it looks a little awkward at this point but you'll see is my ain't my arm creates a slope okay so that I can hold the top of the drywall like this and what Matt's going to be doing is he's going to be holding it a certain way so that he's not fighting with me if you're not carrying it in the same direction with the same slope then you're always twisting and pulling and you're gonna hurt your back so I can walk around I could open doors as I'm working everything like that no problem at all okay so you'll see the way the mats carrying that his hand has turned the other way but he's also got the same angle okay so if I'm carrying it this way it's where we're fighting with the drywall the whole time we're walking so that's why both the best carrying it with our arms out creates that natural slope and then if you get around you got you can duck and get around at obstacles no problem right now come on back and then we're gonna flip it because we want always have the drywall with the white paper facing you when you're measuring and cutting the way you flip it if you're on end end with a long sheet is quick or it might snap ready go okay there we go whew that's precarious the other way to flip it is to work into the middle a little bit and then we can both flip it together work on the sheets just cheesy just make sure you keep your back straight you'll be fine now let's set it back in now when you're carrying 12-foot sheets of drywall they can be heavy put your knee out alright now what we've got here is friction so as long as you're putting a little bit of pressure on this drywall you don't have to carry it you just create a little bit of friction and you can control the drop okay that way you're not gonna be slamming it on the ground and drop it nobody has to work too hard now now we got a little drywall in place the white papers facing out ready to measure and cut alright so now it's time for measuring and cutting now listen if you've learned anything in this video so far feel free to take two seconds and give us a quick thumbs up and let YouTube know that we've done a good job in informing you of some new stuff now if you want to learn about measuring and cutting you're gonna have to click the end screen right here and follow along as we are in this process and if this video just came out and the end screen is not working then you need to subscribe to the channel hit the bell for notifications and next week when the new video comes out you'll be able to watch it then

Channel: Home RenoVision DIY

Views: 216,707

Rating: 4.9641652 out of 5

Keywords: homerenovision, renovision, kitchen remodel, kitchen remodeling, kitchen renovation, home improvement, how to remodel a kitchen, kitchen remodel diy, kitchen remodeling tips, kitchen remodeling ideas 2019, kitchen remodeling diy, kitchen renovation ideas, kitchen renovation diy, kitchen renovation tips, home renovision drywall

Id: sl-lCpb3He0

Length: 25min 9sec (1509 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 30 2019