Don't Spend Another Second Struggling With Body Filler!!

do you feel like you work too hard doing bodywork you're going to want to watch this video we're going to solve all those problems [Music] welcome back to the channel guys today we are going to be talking about body working a car to a show car finish we're not going to be doing anything in the collision type industry this is more geared towards full restoration show quality straight laser straight panels and how you get there we want to talk about the foundation that you guys start with on your car if you are doing a car and you don't strip it to the bare metal and epoxy then we're probably not the video for you we want to be talking about what is the absolute best preferred method that we use and we're not this is not the only way but it is definitely the way that we have found to work the best from an accumulation of people that do top notch work when you are evaluating your panel you want to be making sure that where are you applying the filler and when you're applying the filler from headlights to tail lights and you are skim coating everything to create one uniform shape that's the goal you can metal work the goal is to metal work everything to the best of your ability where everything is completely gapped panel to panel fitment is good and everything has been either sandblasted metal finished and epoxied and that's for a different video but if you are already in epoxy where do you start and we want to talk about panel prep so you're going to want to scuff all of your epoxy panel with we recommend 80 grit that is you're sealing in all of your bare metal with an epoxy from moisture you're not if you're doing body filler over bare metal your metal is still exposed to the elements to where you could have rust that starts from underneath and when we're talking about a quality paint job people might be spending anywhere from forty thousand to eighty thousand dollars for just body and paint and that is what we are referring to you want the best product and overall outcome that you can possibly get with doing that make sure everything has been prepped acid washed epoxied and scuffed thoroughly when you are evaluating where do you start typically you want to start on the biggest flattest panel we like to start in between your wheel wells because that's what your eye is going to go to and you want to be feathering out all of your edges and shapes from the center line of your vehicle today's demonstration is actually going to be back here on a trunk that we've already metal finished and yes we do have some areas that are showing bare metal at this point because we're already ready for primer but we kind of came back in and just created a couple spots to show you guys how we get that nice flat smooth finish once your panel is scuffed in the 80 this is where you're going to want to come in and before you scuff it if you're working on a car that's maybe been sitting for a little bit of time you're going to want to wipe it down wax and grease and i mean wipe it down in wax degrease before you have scuffed with 80. and once you start the body working process it's always good to keep everything completely clean we want to be using rubber gloves or nitrile gloves whatever works best for you some people have different allergic reactions but you want to keep your oils off the car you want to keep the elements maybe your shops using wd-40 or whatever it is you want to keep all that stuff completely clean and away from the car once you have wax and grease and clean the surface you can then scuff everything with 80 grit so that way you can put your body filler down we do not recommend using an orbital sander or a d a to scuff the surface because one you don't have any control of how much of that mill thickness you're removing of the epoxy you want to keep that epoxy there as best you can that way you don't have any thin areas like we have here that it starts showing its face you want to hopefully only have a couple little areas that show that way when you come back in the end and you re-epoxy the car or use your polyester or whatever it is you want to make sure that anything that is showing in bare metal is either an epoxy or a approved dtm meaning direct to metal primer if you go to put a polyester most not not all but most polyesters do not adhere well to bare metal so that's why you want to be very uh conscious of that so moving forward once your panel is completely scuffed there should be no sheen no shine you are then ready to come back in and what we're going to do is use a guide coat i cannot stress guide coat enough you're going to use more guide coat than you've probably ever used if you do it this way and you can use the powder which is what this is you can use an aerosol it doesn't really matter but i will say that i do like the powder better because it doesn't clog your paper it it overall it shows more detail in my opinion with the powder we use aerosol maybe when you get in and you're prepping your jams but for this video we're going gonna stick with the powder so you want to scuff your panel and we use we like to put it on pretty heavily that way you can truly see what it is you're working with rather than wasting filler or time maybe you got a new quarter panel and maybe there's areas that don't need any body filler i can tell you that even with new panels the majority of the cars as you can see are completely covered every little square inch is different you're correcting shapes you don't want body filler thick you want to keep it down to like a 16th or you have areas that may end up in a little bit thicker but you want to try to keep the body filler as thin as possible when we talk about a foundation if you're spending high dollar on body and paint this should be the most critical thing you don't want to be paying a shop to do body and paint or doing it yourself when you have no clue what was underneath that could delaminate or fail so this is why we always start all the way back at square one with bare metal epoxy and then your body filler here we're going to be using you know your panel we're going to pretend that this is just epoxy that is scuffed and this is a linear block that's what the new blocks that we've recently received that we really like these things feel good and they're comfortable we're going to do a video later on these review but for this video the big thing when you're checking your panel is a light touch light touch when you're block sanding is the most critical part to finding how straight your panel is when we talk about light touch it could vary from is your car on a car dolly with no weight or is it have motor trans and it's sitting on the ground the point that i want to make is that if your car is light like this thing with just a thumb you can see how easily this car moves when you're block sanding anything especially when you're trying to find a super flat surface it should be such a light touch that we are just going to lightly scuff the panel and the car should not be moving all around for this particular video i'm not going to wear a mask but you guys should definitely mask up when it comes to body filler or any standing of primers i particularly like the 3m mask with the dust filters for this it's nice because you can use one mask and you can alternate between painting with it with a charcoal filter and or the particle filters but so in this case we're going to use a block that fits the panel nice and easily it should be a very light touch that contours you don't want to be using a block that is super flimsy to try to make something flat and we do not use a velcro we use a sticky back acrylic block that is stiff enough to fit the panel from there we are going to just lightly scuff and just with that little bit you get a representation of what is flat and what is not anything that is left where there's an excessive low now we we created these few lows with a da just to kind of give the demonstration because we had already metal worked the majority of this and this is just a very light skim coat but you can see just skimming it with 80 and this is going to become more and more magnified the lighter grit that you use so if you are using 150 grit to show these lows it's going to show even more detail than with 80. but this is the roughing stage as i like to call it so you want to make sure that you just get everything flat and roughed in we're not really worried about the very minut waves that all comes later here is where we want to make sure that you're using a pencil and you do not want to use a sharpie or anything else the reason we use a pencil is that it doesn't bleed and by saying bleed when you use a primer that has chemicals that will make like for example if you took brake cleaner or acetone on a sharpie it would just bleed it is the ink in it would just go all over the place a pencil being dry is not going to come back through it has been known that sharpies if you are marking lows with sharpies that if you paint primer it might cover right now but even after things dry we have seen marker where it actually comes back through and next thing you know you're painted and you start seeing your mark marker lines come back through to the top of the surface you don't want to see any of this stuff you want to lock it in and make sure we get rid of it the big thing with the pencil is this pencil is going to do a few things on guiding you in the direction that you need to go with making sure you're adding enough filler to be able to feather and fill out a dent and we're going to touch base on that in just a sec so keep blocking this area nice and light again i'm using two fingers per hand i am just grazing it to give me a good view on what needs to be added with body filler this is where you want to come in and we want to mark and when we mark you do not want to try to put your filler only where the low is you want to be out here on the flat where you know you have a good smooth surface that is flat we're going to come in and we are going to teach feathering things out so i like to mark everything that we're going to add going out a good couple inches i'm going to focus on this area here first let's make sure that we don't have any lows over here and when you're block standing an entire car maybe you're a door to quarter or trunk to a lower panel you want to be blocking across both panels we want seamless we want that thing to be a complete mirror when you're looking over the entire car when you're going to come in and you get everything where you have no more guide coat that's what we're looking for you'll notice where we've already applied filler and we're going to talk about this later in the video things will show up where you've reapplied very minutely and we want to make sure that when we're putting this on everything goes on nice and smooth that's going to save you all the work if you're trying to hoof filler on a bunch at a time to try to conquer a dent you've already lost the battle and that is what we're going to try to teach you guys to rethink bodywork it's not about putting it on and trying to knock it out in one shot it's harder and this is a lot easier okay for this particular video we're going to work like i said just this area coming out a good few inches like so that's all we're going to focus on is this area and the reason that this is important is we need to make sure that we come in with a little piece of 80 grit that you can scuff by hand when we scuff this we don't want to put body filler over any guide coat it doesn't want to stick to guide coat it doesn't want to stick to anything that is not thoroughly scuffed don't come in and just go it's good enough that needs to be completely scuffed zero sheen zero shine and make sure that you have all of the guide coat completely off the reason that it's important to have a pencil line and to only scuff the area that is low is you're using that area that skimmed really fast and cleaned up as your guideline you don't want to take away too much of what is already perfect in bodywork we only want to come in and address the low if you came in and you scuffed everything inside the pencil everything inside that pencil is no longer straight you need those straight pieces to guide you in making sure that it is 100 perfect you do not want to try to put this on we're going to add filler over everything inside the pencil and we're going to put the filler beyond that area so if you're going to put filler out here in the perimeter you want to make sure that there is no guide coat that it's going on so when we talked about wax and grease the one thing i want to make sure that you guys understand is that you do not want to take wax and grease right now and try to wipe this off because now you have a porous surface it's no longer smooth and if you had anything whether it been on the car on the rag and you worked this thing you're going to rub all the grease into that you want to make sure you're just using air and blowing this off clean making sure your hands are covered from here you are ready to start mixing all right when we're mixing filler we want to talk about the products that we use and how we use them we use or we like you pull 3m whatever it is that you particularly like i do not like bondo brand but u-poll is what i do like to use the gold it's the up0745 and it is a lightweight filler for the bang of the buck that stuff is awesome so far if you guys are looking to get any of this stuff where we buy our stuff is temecula valley paint they have been amazing i've gone there for the last 20 some odd years and like if you're looking for i'm not getting paid to say this but if you guys are looking for sheet metal that's of quality auto metal direct has been absolutely amazing their customer service even just through instagram has been absolutely amazing so the big thing is i try to support those who support us and with that i mean if you guys could absolutely like this video and subscribe it definitely helps us make these videos moving forward okay got that out of the way so let's talk about mixing filler the majority of people that mix filler they use your body filler and a hardener you have to have a two part everything we want to do with this car is two part your epoxy is two part your primers are two part if you're using a different primer your paint should be two part even your base coat a lot of people don't use hardener and base coat but you should it is recommended the one thing you want to do with your hardener is you want to knead it this will get watery inside and you don't want to use an old one either i mean they give you this and you have so much usually that if it's old throw it out when it comes to body filler no matter what you're using the few things that you want to do is if you're starting that day to do bodywork get a new stick the problem is you mix it and then your stick sits out overnight and that filler has not quite the same consistency it starts getting hard with an outer shell right well those hardened outer shell things as they get mixed into there is what causes pinholes the other thing we don't do is we do not use the stick and scrape the side of the can everything in the side of the can leave it there this stuff is cheap enough even if it's not and you're buying a higher quality leave it on the side all of those things dry out all this stuff on the top goes in and as you mix it and you're trying to spread a nice even spread you end up with these clumps those clumps that is where that derives from when it comes to mixing you'll notice i have a paint scale here a paint scale that you can switch back and forth between grams and parts everything in the body filler stage and primer stage is measured in grams everything after you're done with primering and you're in the paint stage is measured in parts for all fillers the rule of thumb is 50 to one and i know most of you are thinking that's crazy because i just have put the method of put a dollop of filler on there and do one stripe through the issue with that is when we're talking about show car paint is you have different levels of hardener that get put into that so you have different hardnesses one might have too much hardener one might not have not enough and you want to make sure that everything that you do in the automotive industry consistency is key the more consistent you can get with every one of your processes and products that's how you're going to know where you either had a problem or where you had a change so we try to be very very very consistent again wear gloves because this stuff when you first start doing it you're going to have it everywhere you're going to look like a kid with play-doh so we want to talk about the spreaders we use both metal and plastic spreaders the metal is going to give you a very tight nice smooth spread but maybe you're doing something that you need to curve a little bit more and you can use a plastic spreader to get in there and actually create that shape again your metal work should already be really close you should be hammer and dolling everything to where you don't have excessive filler if you have excessive filler that's where you're gonna start having problems again we talk about the foundation the foundation of your car should be the best that you can make it in metal before you even start filler filler is just to fix any inconsistencies and waves in the car it should not be to fill major dents when you are mixing when we say 50 to 1 we want to put if you got 50 parts on the scale when you put it on here if you could put 300 divide that by 50 and that's how many grams of hardener you want to add me particularly i like to use a scale that is accurate that goes past the decimal point that way you get a more accurating some of the scales that are out there i have not seen where it just does a solid number and you can't get into the decimal point so it's it does vary a little bit the other thing that it does is it's giving you that even hardness and an even color you see the cars on the show cars when they get done doing all the filler and it's a nice uniform color it's because that they have focused on using the exact same mixture all the way through the car that we're doing we started a while ago in summer and winter and it it's changed but rule of thumb always do 50 to one that is going to keep everything consistent and that's what the manufacturer recommends the onion board that we use these are kind of cool you can get these at most auto body stores temecula valley paints where we got this one and they're just sheets of paper that do not allow it to soak up through so they there's i don't know what kind of paper it exactly is but it's considered like an onion board this is made by high tech you can pull these sheets off as you get done and then you're not spending time trying to clean up an aluminum panel or board which this is great for doing small amounts of filler but if you're doing a bigger panel with a lot more filler that you want to spread on you may want to go to a board that you actually have to clean when it comes to cleaning you can use a brake cleaner you can use an acetone i always like to have everything set up where you need it ready to go you need to make sure that you have the blocks that you need with the papers over by the car where you're ready we're going to mix this filler and i'm just going to do a small part for demonstration we're going to do 50 parts to one part of hardener only just because we have a small area that we're working and then we're going to move to the car and mix at the car the reason being is as soon as you start mixing this you are now on a time clock and you want as much time to work this filler as possible before it starts to harden on you that's what everybody has a problem with right that's why you're watching this video it gets too hard and who likes to sand concrete because i don't so we're gonna mix that up and we will meet you guys back at the car so i forgot to mention and talk about this in the video but as you're mixing this you want to put this on a little bit at a time until you get the desired you can see a tiny little bit makes a big difference so just creep up on it don't rush it this part you're not on a ticking time clock not until you mix it up so put a nice accurate measurement try to get it as close to that number 1.9 that is damn close to two we ended up doing uh two parts just because we mixed up 50. so let's go to the car again i want to reiterate that this is a demonstration so typically we would have the whole car blocked out where there is no guide coat i have the pencil line here you want to make sure your pencil line is easily visible and that you do not want to be applying filler where you do not need it so we're going to stay within this perimeter you're going to find out what that pencil actually does in a second when you are mixing the filler and the hardened together it should be a circular motion and turn and swipe it in you do not want to chop at it because if you chop at it you're also creating air pockets and you want to make sure that every time you are getting it completely off of the spreader as best as you can this is going to take a lot of practice and time to master the more you do the better you will get but just keep going until you have no stripes and you have one consistent color the other thing you don't want to do is you do not want to ever swipe the side of the board everybody likes swipe side of the board but the problem is you will end up with hard chunks that will slowly pop off over time and end up in your filler as you spread it and you do not have an even spread now you start having chunks those chunks turn into pinholes and that's what we're trying to avoid so just sit there and keep mixing it it's pretty cold this morning that's why my damn nose keeps running but get everything off regroup come back you don't want anything in there that's not fully mixed you can see it's now looking like a uniform color i like to round it all back up if you leave it in one big heaping pile and it's a hot day this will harden way faster than if you take it and spread it out spread it out now you can only grab what you need start small even fingers firm pressure and spread it on you want to get this on and pushed into the scratches nice and firm so you can see i'm not going over anywhere where i have guide coat now the other thing you're going to see when you look up body filler on youtube is people just hoofing this on because they don't want to do it and they don't want to have excessive standing you do not want to put it on excessively for this you want to try to put it on as smooth as you can and as thin as you can at a time if you have a curve in the panel use your fingers to create the curve spread nice and even the more that you pick this up perpendicular to the panel the more you're removing and the more that you lay down the more you're adding the the other thing you want to make sure you do is you go beyond or up to your pencil line right because the pencil line is marked on the area that is good and you want to have enough buffer to be able to smooth it out the other thing is smoothing your edges to create way less work that is key to making this easy we will come around and we will put the corner down and feather out your edge notice how it has a nice smooth transition you can just see your pencil you don't have to see your pencil but if you're going to go past your pencil make sure you're not going over guide coat you want to smooth these transitions out smoothing these transitions is what the majority will battle i don't care if you have a table top or a plateau of filler as long as your edges are completely feathered and by feathering it here that's going to save you so much time in bodyworking this the other thing is you will try to add too much filler than what you are comfortable working everybody has a different work flow and what you are comfortable with i will do a big section because i am proficient at it i've had a lot of practice but if you are starting at this work small you do not have to do a big area i can make one panel completely flat across and i can do it 30 times if i had to so make sure you take your sweet time and work what you can work only putting it on thin even coats and then make sure you get it all back off if you start getting the cottage cheesy look you can see this thing starts not spreading quite as nice you're done just take it all off the spreader this is where you want you're on a time clock now everything's mixed up because it's cold i have time to explain this right now if it's a hot day you better be booging back and get this stuff clean get the onion board ripped off and ready to come back and you're going to want to babysit this and that's what we're going to talk about next so let's show you how we clean up so i didn't actually get any acetone out but typically i would dip the paper towel and acetone in this case we'll use some brake cleaner you already don't have the filler on here because you've wiped it off or maybe you use a another spreader to scrape the majority of it off the big thing is making sure that it's completely completely clean you do not want any filler on the edge or anywhere on the spreader it will build up over time and make things not spread straight then you can grab your onion board pull this guy off and now you're ready and set up to come back for your next spread i don't recommend once you've been doing this all day long and things get dusty i don't even usually spread this thing off this is a brand new stick this morning a brand new can so we can pull it off the other thing is as you're standing and maybe this station is close to your car and you have dust particles that start floating cover your can if you don't cover your can and those dust particles build up in here that's also where you're going to start getting your clumps so every day i at a minimum throw my stick away and get a new stick i do not scrape the can and i do not let dust or moisture leave the can you don't want any that stuff in there it's all bad it's going to create more and more pinholes try to keep this as fresh it's going to spread easier everything across the board okay we're back at the car and now your filler is like i said today is a cold day this is going to take a lot longer but don't think that you should start multitasking or working in another area until you have mastered this technique what we're going to describe is when you come back and you're looking for that that hour of up or that window of opportunity take an area maybe you spread it in a spot that you can come back and test so you're not swiping your finger through it you are going to see [Music] use your lights in your shop to look at this it should look kind of glossy it's going to start dulling out to like an eggshell and that's what you want you want to work this filler before it is completely dry because otherwise it's like sanding concrete and that's the number one reason why people hate doing bodywork is they say it's a lot of work well it's only a lot of work if you've waited too long and this is completely hardened and now you're really you're fighting a few things you're trying to fight an edge that is a hard edge and you sit there and you work it out well the problem is you'll get it down there eventually smooth and you might have one or two edges that are hard so then you come back and you put filler on that edge and you try to work and smooth that well now you got edges that just keep compounding and you get more and more of them next thing you know you have this wavy panel that is not straight and you have no basis of where to start where to stop and why so as this starts to dry you want to use your finger and touch an edge and notice how quickly it's still really wet even though this is 50 to 1 you're going to find that in the summertime this is a lot sped i mean we're you are almost running back and forth to be able to get back to the panel so you can work it so with this time frame i want to talk about what are the things that we do well the papers that we use i'm going to get some slack on this but it's how you use it i actually prefer two ways to in my opinion you call this the sculpting stage that's what we call it when you get to a point where you can touch it you just want it you don't want it to where you can move it with your finger you don't want it to where it's sticky you just want it barely tacky it should start to harden that's the sweet spot that you're looking for in that stage if you're going over panel to panel you're spreading in between the two i will come in and go from this edge then work the bottom edge and then swipe the two to have a nice even surface and when you do that it goes into the crack of the panel take a razor blade have everything on hand ready to go so you can put the razor blade right on the edge and cut it when it's still soft you don't want to cut it when it's too hard you might pull the filler from the edge and not know it and then you have a delamination problem later so you want to make sure that everything is pushed into the cracks nice and evenly and a nice even spread feathered your edges and then that's where you're going to come back when this thing gets to a point where it is hard enough we are going to use either a cheese grater and or 40 grit now here's the disclaimer you do not want to put body filler over 40 grit again i am sanding this with 40 grit but the thing that i teach in our classes is that you want to stay high so this right now is a dome very minimally it's domed out we want to just use your 40 to work either or a cheese grater or 40 because you're going to come back to 80 grit and you're going to body work this down nice and smooth and because you swiped your edge and feathered it it's going to blend out super easy the other thing you're going to want to make sure is that if you're using 40 you're not sanding this thing completely flat you are only using 40 and or cheese grater to smooth out some of these swipe marks or small inconsistencies that way you're not sitting there trying to work down a whole bunch of area if you're the guy who likes to hoof it on a cheese grater's already going to be your friend but the problem is people will try to use a cheese grater when it's harder and then they try to work a bigger area and next thing you know they're running out of time and it's sanding concrete and that's why everybody hates it so if there's one thing you take away from this video it is make sure you find that window use a test panel and swipe it until you want it to not smear sometimes i'll take a little hand piece of 80 grit and i will just touch the edge if it smears or sticks on the paper it is too soon you want it to be balling up and and coming off like a dust particle but not so hard that it's hard to sand you're just trying to find that that sweet spot we're gonna sit here and we are gonna babysit this until it completely gets to that point and then we're going to come in and the other thing is when you're using a cheese grater if you hold it out here on the edges sometimes it won't cut good i always like to hold the cheese grater on edge with a very light pressure and i'm just lightly sculpting this into the shape i need very very lightly if you're doing this when it's soft this does not take much pressure if you have a new cheese grater it will cut a heck of a lot more than an older worn out one sometimes the older worn out one works better if you're just trying to feather things out you're not trying to recreate a shape you are just trying to smooth out minut waves across the panel so while we're waiting for this to set up we got these new linear blocks in we are going to do a review video on this we do have another video that we've done on all the other blocks so we will put that link in our video here for you guys to check out so please check back when we go over why these blocks in our opinion are the best blocks again we're coming in now notice here when i touch this it is not doing what it did here it is starting to get sticky but see it's just it's still swiping a little bit hear that it's a little sticky we don't want sticky we want just a small tack if you were to come in here right now and i'll show you guys just because this is a good demo and you swipe this see how it clogs the paper really quickly it sticks in the paper and this is actually see how it balls up and it rolls it's too soon you do not want to do it when it's balling up now if you have a piece of 40 grit that's already almost toast you can take it and very lightly smooth out these edges notice i'm not using 40 and i'm not coming out here in the areas that are good and already bodyworked i am just staying on the high i am using this this is a great example right here this is what you do not want to this is too soon so we're going to keep continuing to wait that is the example of how i would use 40 and or a cheese grater the cheese grater again come in and very lightly see how it's just shaving off that little high where the spreader came in look at that you're going to be focusing on this edge or any area that you have a swipe mark that's all you're going to do you're not going to try to take we're not removing the dent with this your dent should already be close to body worked out with a hammer and dolly this is the consistency you want we just now have that you can see how now it's a dust and it is cutting it nice and good it's not pulling it off the panel i'm just trying to even out this spread this area right here where it's spread at this point this filler already feels pretty good and that's what you want you want this to be so close that you're not working hard again i haven't broke a sweat yet we are just working through this slowly building if you had a dent let's say this dent was this low when we started it was one big low if you're putting it on nice and thin the dents should be smaller and smaller each time do not try to conquer that dent in the first shot you're not going to get the adhesion that you want you're going to get more pin holes you're going to have more problems put it on thin it does not it is not a bad thing if you put it on two and three times the big thing is that you're not putting it on excessively where you recreate the shape that the car is not now we are going to go to our 80 grit our 80 grit is where we want to do all of our final work and finishing if you are blocking the dent again we're back to light touch you can push with a firm pressure here because we're in the rough in stage trying to knock this all flat you want to bridge use the block that is appropriate again we don't want to use a block that's super flimsy for something that's flat if you're doing a 40 forward fender flimsy would be a lot better of a block you're going to want to bridge your hands from the low so if our low is in the center we want to be working this in an x pattern working out a 45 each direction so you work this out nice and evenly what you are going to look for is the pencil the pencil is your guide to slow down and start using a lighter touch the firm pressure in the beginning and as you get closer and you see the body filler smoothing out use a lighter pressure and as you upgrade in grits so if you go from 80 to 120 or 100 everything is a lighter grit and the big thing is use guide coat a lot we have not used it but right now when we get into this stage and you start blocking it out then you're going to see the areas that are low we're going to guide coat it block it and then we're going to re-guide coat it to see how our finished work looks that's what you need to be doing go back and forth guide coat sand guide coat sand if you're putting it on and it took you three or four coats you're going to have this inconsistency right here and if you stay where it's nice and smooth and you get everything roughed in when you get to like we use 150 grit is what we end with before we primer if you stay a little bit high where it's pretty smooth when you come back now the longer the stroke that you do the straighter the panel so we might be working this dent and then working this dent and when you're done re-guide coat the whole thing and come in with a nice even stroke across the whole panel and then address anything that might show up or you just keep blocking the filler because you have a little bit of a buffer don't keep going if you see the epoxy primer show up stop figure out where you need to either reapply or sand appropriately don't keep going through where you have metal showing everywhere that's not what we want when you're standing you also want to make sure that you have a nice good fresh piece of 80 it should sound like it's cutting and if it's even a little bit worn out you're not going to have you're going to end up pushing hard and then you're going to recreate ripples in the vehicle we don't want that we want the light touch and we want a nice piece of paper to cut again i'm real light x pattern i will continually watch as this panel starts to sand smooth be adjusting your hands to work the high you when you're when you're working down let's say a mountain range you don't want to just sit there and work on one mount how do you know what's level you want to evenly take down the range of highs to get a nice even surface as this starts to hit evenly that's where you'll want to go back out nice and even wide grip nice and smooth and feather it out what you're looking for is the pencil line to start showing up in a when you're doing a bigger surface and you have all this prepped out here i would typically spread this beyond the pencil mark that way the pencil is my guide to slow down or to stop with 80 grit and go to the next grit so i want you to see right here this is we didn't have any filler right here but right here where we went over the pencil line it starts to very faintly show up as you start seeing the pencil line show up you know you're almost back to ground zero where you had your flat good panel to start with here we want to you can see the areas that are not sanded we're going to focus on working this down nice and even if you are block sanding here's another key and you're going you're just trying to work this down but you're going the full distance right if you don't focus on the area that you did the filler first before you start feathering it out the areas that were around it are now inconsistently low so you want to stay on your filler until you start to see the pencil line show up and then you can start going bigger motion so stay in the area that you've put your filler and then as you get close then feather it out and i like to stay a little bit high like this is a little bit high now let's say this is we need to check this with guide coat real quick remember we have dents over here right and we didn't go out into those dents we want to check our work again when this is roughing it in this is the easiest way to do it light touch to check you can see our edge you can see where this is a little bit high still but everything else this is nice and even down here is nice and even and here is where our other low is okay if you keep blocking this and blocking it this will eventually end up low you want to stay nice and flat what we would do here is block this a little bit more till we see this feather out and we know it's good and we're done we do not want to keep coming back to that and standing it and changing it we know it's good so right there we now no longer have it is a completely smooth i can tell you physically this area is 110 perfect and we can now re-guide coat this in the in the later stages when you upgrade grits right now we're an 80 and when we go to uh 120 or 150 we'll come back and we will block this whole thing until all the guide coat disappears but right here is going to be our next area right we're just giving it a few swipes to get a visual on where we are we're back at square one you can come back with your pencil and this is where you're going to mark outside onto the good area if you don't mark this you will continually keep sanding and you have no guide that's showing you when to stop you will just keep sanding through the area that was perfect and now it's no longer consistent the more you can dial in on creeping up on this pencil line the flatter your cars are going to be the better your surface finishes are going to be and the straighter you will be overall so mark your area that you're going to have now you're going to come in and scuff this reapply in this area only and do this exact same process again and i did not even break a sweat if you guys want to really dial in on learning this and master bodywork shoot me a dm we do do classes where we will spend all weekend with you the goal this year moving forward is to do a lot smaller of a class way more hands-on one-on-one to make sure that you get it because the problem is you watch the video you think you got it but there are a lot of things that we do that i correct as you do it that way we know we teach you exactly how to do it so thanks for watching we'll see you guys on the next video hope you guys learned something and this made your life a hell of a lot easier than it was in the best jesus why is there a [ __ ] jack behind me god damn that's a good ending [Music]

Channel: SYLVESTERS CUSTOMS

Views: 1,093,824

Keywords: Body Filler, Body filler car repair, Getting Started With Body Filler, How to Correctly Block Body Filler, How to Mix Body Filler, How to Spread Body Filler, Preparing your Panel for Body Filler, applying body filler, auto body filler, bad chad, body filler bondo, body filler dent repair, body filler the easy way, body filler tutorial, body work, bondo auto body repair, diy automotive school, diy body filler, sylvester customs, sylvesters customs

Id: CI68oOMCqW8

Length: 50min 19sec (3019 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 17 2021