The Body Filler Innovation You Can't Afford to Miss!"

welcome back to the channel guys i'm travis sylvester and today we're going to be showing you guys how to do body filler bodywork whatever you guys want to call it the most efficient way possible [Music] before we actually dive into doing the actual body work on the car we've had a lot of questions about how we lock in our panels and get them body worked completely seamless so we're just going to jump right into that we actually don't weld them we're just using body filler when you guys are going to start doing any panel and you're looking for the seamless look the only way you're truly going to get seamless looks is if you are body working the car as one shape and not on individual panels periods there's no real if ands or butts and the other disclaimer i'll say is you could take your car to the best metal finisher and the panel could be 100 perfect but unless you do not do this where you lock the panel in and body work it together it's not going to be seamless if you guys think it is you haven't looked at it close enough that's all there is to it so what we're doing here we have already gapped and when i say gap we've already welded every edge of this trunk to get ourselves a 3 16 gap we don't have to weld them we just have to let the filler flow into there and we typically do it on the areas that if the car is going to be rolling around which this thing we have on jack stands we're just going to put it in about four different areas we're pushing it in so that way nothing is going to move keep in mind we have already fitted this thing with all the latches we've adjusted everything i don't really want to get into all that detail i just kind of want to show you guys the difference in bodyworking a car one shape versus several shapes you'll also notice i have some shims in here all this is is 3 16 brake line that i've cut and taped in there that is holding my trunk in the exact spot that it needs to be in it is a warm night you can see things are already starting to set up pretty fast that's really it shove the body filler into those areas so things are nice and tight we're going to clean this up come back in the last body filler video we did we were using u-pull now there's been some changes u-poll since has gone downhill there's a lot better products out there that we used to use and we've kind of gone back to them so we used to use 3m 3m's not bad but what we have really come to like is rage and there's a lot of reasons why we really come to like rage rage ultra and rage ultra extra specifically are what we like rage sells a bunch of different fillers that are out there there's extreme that stuff is extreme extremely expensive and and i'm not one to be like oh there's a product that's more expensive or don't use it because of the cost for me it's what works for us there's a bunch of things that may work for you guys and that's fine this way is not the only way this is just what we do but ultimately the big difference that i really like about these fillers is your work window especially right now it's 86 degrees and it's like nine o'clock at night in my shop so this stuff if you get ultra and ultra extra you get the best of both worlds if you mix them 50 50 together it extends your work window and but i say work window i mean how long you have to be spreading the filler around the panel to get the shape that you achieve now if you're just using ultra that's fine and if you're just using extra that's also fine just know that they don't really do the same thing but they do spread a lot nicer and when you mix the two together while you're spreading it's not going on like toothpaste or cookie dough or anything like that it actually spreads really good but in order to get it to spread over a panel good and get good adhesion there's a lot of things that go into that and the biggest one is prep all the way from the very beginning so we're going to take you guys the back of the car if you guys don't know you should you need to be wearing a mask but you can't hear me guys on teaching so if you want to hear somebody who sounds like they're in a mask go watch bad chad because we're trying to give you guys a quality video and i'm not gonna be nitpicking somebody for not wearing a mask while doing this ultimately everything needs to be sanded we like 80 grit we are using sun mites 80 grit it's the p80 and everything should be scuffed very very thoroughly like after you blow it off with air you should see zero shiny anywhere you should see a scratch in every single nook and cranny of the car that you're going to be adding filler to so we have completely gone through and prepped this car from front to back everything is ready for filler it's sitting where it needs to sit we have now locked the panel in and we can begin doing our body filler so let's show you guys how to mix it up we are over here at the bench with the scale and we have ultra and ultra extra keep in mind it is not extreme don't make the mistake i did ultimately per manufacturer they recommend 50 parts to one part hardener now when i made this video or we started talking about this video the whole goal here is to be efficient how do you be efficient when you live in southern california we have very dry climate and temperatures especially in this metal building with no insulation reaches anywhere from 115 to 120 degrees now i know across the board everybody's going to say 50 to 1 no matter what that's what the manufacturer says however let's see you come to my shop i i truly would like to be proven wrong honestly because when we mix 50 to 1 no matter what the number one thing that we've come to like with these two fillers mixed 50 50 is that you get a much larger work window i'm not denying that however when you mix these two even at 50 to 1 and it's 90 degrees in here it's still you don't have enough time to do a big skim you can work small sections but you're going to be taking a lot longer to do it and by doing bodywork in small sections you're also not creating a nice smooth transition guys even if you have perfect metal work like i've talked about you have to have the mentality that you are sculptors you are making that car one shape one radius and working through it whether it be flat or rounded so what we're going to do is we're going to mix up 500 parts and i say par i mean 500 grams on this scale because body filler primers are measured in grams and paint products are measured in parts so we're going to do grams 500 we're going to do 250 of rage ultra and we're going to do 250 of rage ultra extra by doing that we are going to take 500 and divide them by what works for you guys for us at this temperature you can then dial in right so like let's say you mix up that amount and you put on the car and it starts to turn to cottage cheese right away you just smoked all of that product that you just mixed now by doing car after car that we've been doing in this heat we can now adjust just a little bit to to not waste product if you're the shop that's going you know what i don't need a scale i'm going to do what everybody says and i'm going to put a dollop of it on there and i'm going to do one stripe through it because that's what they tell you which is fine it's a recommended right but they also tell you 50 to 1. now let's find the crossroads between the two instead of doing a stripe and you never have a clue how much hardener you're truly putting into that filler now you're actually measuring it to the nets s and by doing that you can actually dial back a little bit on the hardener i'm going 70 to 1. if you compare the difference 50 to 1 versus 70 to 1 it's minimal but what it's going to do it's going to give me a huge work window that i can then spread the whole trunk as much as i can fit on the board that's the goal here so we also want to need this thing guys if you haven't seen our other video where we discuss every little aspect in detail some of this stuff is reiterated from that but it's kind of an updated version on how to be more efficient so we're going to come through we're going to load this up with extra doesn't matter what you put on first we're gonna we got all this on here 50 50 and the other thing you guys want to really take in consideration is mixing this up at the car even if it's 10 seconds that you're away or maybe you're on the other side of the shop it is going to matter when it comes to your work window you want the most amount of work window that you can you want to stir you do not want to chop at it it will create air pockets in it and you want to smear it back together round it up this kind of takes a lot of practice and muscle memory you want to make sure you're getting as much of it off of the spreader as you can and just keep rounding it up on itself pushing it to one corner of it and spreading it off to where you can just keep mixing it up you want it to where you don't have any stripes through this filler either you want it mixed very thoroughly don't leave any on the spreader that is unmixed make sure you get it all off we've also blown the car off really well i like to scuff the car and blow it off i don't like to use a bunch of chemicals over the epoxy that we already have down because i don't want to contaminate anything once you get it on here you can then grab what you need and initially you want to really work the filler into the panel on the car you want to get it on in a decent amount of time and then you can work it more once you get it on the car focusing on pushing it into the scratches the whole goal on this car because we kind of have a little bit of a deadline we want to get this thing to a show yes dry times do matter but the expectation is we're trying to get this car to sema so we're going to try to do filler work as efficiently as possible and we're starting this project today right now there's no filler anywhere on the car other than the very belly which is already painted and we're going to attempt to do this entire car in five to ten days start to finish all the way to 220 grit the goal is going to always be prime the car one time after filler work so this needs to be as perfect as possible i'm going to come back around this side you guys can see this thing's pretty shiny all the filler that we're putting on it's laying out really nice it spreads really nice you can do a big big area and i like to call this roughing everything in we are just coating the entire car we've already done all the metal work on this car everything has been metal finished sealed up and then as you can see we're not going to be wasting any of this filler work now as you get things smooth put your board down and then you're going to be trying to spread everything as smooth i'm using my fingers spread out to make the curve of this blade this is a metal spreader the goal here is skim coating everything and then we're going to get into how we block all this out smooth and the biggest thing you guys are going to take away from this if you've ever battled an area that you just can't seem to get perfect is knowing when to stop sanding i'm also feathering my edges so as i do all this i'm coming around you don't want a hard edge anywhere you end even if you make a plateau with it the goal here is as smooth the smoother that you can spread it the easier this is going to be on you to sand sometimes you got to come in and you can use a spline a spline is basically a wider spreader so you can actually do this in one swipe if you had the right touch and the right amount of filler but again you don't have to do that it's just tricks to the trade i want to show you guys that are just trying to start out we're just trying to get a nice smooth spread so everything flows together we should have timed this so we could physically tell you guys maybe we'll have mike tell us afterwards in the video he can put a little timer up there on how much time and this is keep in mind this is 90 degrees here right now i think it's 86 to be exact and we've worked a solid three foot by two feet section if not larger still spreading just fine you're not going to be able to do that at 90 degrees with hardly any other fillers 3m platinum plus spreads really nice but some guys will add honey and different things to the filler to get it to do this and the problem is you're changing the makeup i know filler is made with honey to begin with but again you're doing a bench chemist type of scenario here we're taking two products directly out of the can same manufacturer and mixing them 50 50. that's the reason that this is what we like about it now at this point you've got everything completely smoothed out you've got your spread done you haven't wasted any filler we're going to go clean up our board and our spreader and we're going to come back and we're going to show you guys to be efficiently sanding and not breaking your back and trying to sand concrete that's the number one thing we're trying to show you guys here okay guys we came back in and i want you guys to look at the sheen on the filler that's already there now what we're able to do with this filler which is so awesome is we're able to continue filler work as long as you have a sheen on here where it's shiny and it's not dry and hard we can then merge the two mixes that we've come up with to blend to one another and make this seamless now you have the ability to be skim coating the entire side of a car if you wanted to me i like to kind of do filler as almost like a wave i do so much filler work like i'll do the whole trunk and then i'll come in and i'll cut it all with 80 grit on the other block and then i'll do another skim and i'll keep working because you're going to have to skim the car sometimes you do it once sometimes you do it several times depending on how good your guys this metal work is i like to spend more time in the metal work stage of things that way i can really dial in the filler you're using less filler than than you would be if you just jump right into filler work try to take the time and metal to get everything right and you won't hate this as much so i'm going to finish spreading this filler around this trunk and then we'll show you guys how to clean up your board so you're not trying to do it later meet you guys back at the table when you guys are coming in and you're cleaning i mean you guys have some guys will put trays and they'll soak the boards in acetone or lacquer or whatever i like to just use acetone we'll put a little bit in a cup don't use a glove that's ripped this stuff will go into your bloodstream and then ultimately you can just clean everything up with acetone you don't want anything at all on these spreaders so make sure you get this stuff completely clean these are metal spreaders you can use plastic ones they both have their advantages i like these for doing tight even spreads and i like the plastic ones because they've got to get into some more curved areas so just keep everything clean come right back and do it don't wait clean it have it ready for the next spread so you can keep being efficient the more efficient you guys are through every one of these processes the better you will get consistency we've come through and we finished the spreading of the second part so two rounds of spreading on this trunk and then now you want to start watching what the filler looks like this was the section up here that we did first and if you look it starts giving it the eggshell color it's also not smearing anymore and then if you come here you can see where this is the second spread it still has a shine to it notice i can still leave a finger swipe in it and if you guys truly want to check you can grab the 80 grit that we're going to be carving in this shape and you can also just give it a couple swipes and what you want to see is that it's not sticking and it's balling off that's what you want you don't want it to where i'll do it on the wet stuff stuff is rolling off you want it to just ball up like a dust you don't want it to completely clog your paper in the beginning the longer that you work this the smoother you can get it you want to create the shape that you need with spreading it and just this is like i said this is the roughing stage it doesn't have to be the prettiest we're going to be talking again about picking the block now i love linear blocks but something that i haven't seen maybe i'm wrong i need a specific curvature i have an assortment of blocks i have big kid i have lucky blocks next level blocks i have almost every manufacturer that i can think of now picking the block you should be able to i always pick the stuff before you start doing any filler work i like to do the thumb test it should curve to the panel with ease you want to pick the thickest block that goes over that shape with ease if this was half inch thick that would be way too thick and your block would only be riding in one area you want to be the sculptor you want it to fit over the panel so if you guys are going to message me and say hey what block did you buy i use a different block for all kinds of areas you guys have to have a pretty broad assortment of blocks to be able to block a bunch of different cars now if you're only doing one car and it's a dodge dart buy a heavy hitter that's a half inch thick it's big and flat that'll get you at least most the way there so now if your blo if your spreading was not good enough you could use a cheese grater and come in and the only thing you really want to be focusing on here is just cutting out the very highs don't get frustrated with this guys this takes a truly it takes a lot of practice but the more you do the more this becomes second nature this is a lot of muscle memory i'm just lightly grazing this thing with two fingers i'm not cutting and hoofing and to the point where it's pulling it off the car the other thing is you don't really want to be putting filler over anything finer than like a 120 grit because it doesn't it's not going to have enough tooth say you grab a cheese grater and you start cheese grating it's going to just pull the filler off you need a good enough tooth that's the whole reason that we like to seal them up and scuff everything with 80 grit so i'm just gonna kind of boogie around we've we've only taken about honestly five to ten minutes to spread all of this it's taken longer for it to set up than it has for us to start sanding even the bottom section is just now starting to set up and the panel temperature that you're working with is super crucial if it's a hot day and the car metal is super hot this is going to kick way faster right now being that it's 86 degrees it's it's cool enough that we had a good amount of time to work this i'm just going to shape and get the massive areas out also if you have anything that's in an edge i keep a razor blade close by and i cut that stuff out as this starts to set up don't spend your time trying to get this all cleaned up perfect every time if you come in and clean house every time you spread and make sure everything is clean every time going back and cleaning everything you're going to be set up for the next spread simultaneously [Music] so now we've come in and we're using the block so this block is what you're going to be doing long strokes long motion right instead of doing filler in a small area you have a nice big gradual spread bigger shape more uniformity and you're going to be taking this 80 grit in the last video we used 40 grit because u-pole was a lot harder to sand this stuff sands a lot easier the big takeaway there is you don't want to be leaving 40 grit scratches when you go to do filler overwork now it would be just like using a body file we would use 40 grit to maybe cut things down quick but we want to stop high once things start to look uniform and then switch to 80. what happens is if you go to 40 grit it's such a big groove and scratch one it's tearing up your epoxy two it's such a big void that if you don't really push it in and you don't get all the dust out of it you're going to have an area that's going to fail and delaminate so that's why 40 is not recommended but we're going to be doing a 30 degree x pattern motion across the panel keep a good variety for the shape for example this is the big flat area i'm going to work this way and this way and as i come into these shapes once we get filler on them or maybe we're doing over here we're going to be running this different ways to create that shape you would not want to be blocking this this way because now your block is only as wide as it is instead of the length so always be using the length to your advantage and creating the shape that you want as you are blocking this down you guys can see where it's light and where it's darker obviously we have not guide coated this yet we will but for the roughing stage because it's so apparent where you have a low if you start hitting metal or even epoxies the whole goal here is knowing when to stop you guys need to be stopping as soon as you can see primer and marking your lows and reapplying before you reapply you will have to mark them with a pencil and we'll get into that and show you guys how we come back and hit the lows again this is just to get the rough shape we're going to continue to block this thing out once we get this to the point where we can see some lows we'll show you guys the next steps on fine-tuning it now that we've come through and blocked everything in 80 this is kind of the crucial time where we really dial things in for you guys knowing when to stop obviously the caveat here is your metal work needs to be correct you need to make sure there's no highs and if that means blocking the car in the very beginning before you even put epoxy primer on the car to know where those highs are that's what's critical we are looking specifically for the areas that you just start to see primer show up and what you're also going to see is you have the areas that show where the filler is not it's your low okay these are the massive i don't say massive they're minor areas that are inconsistent from whatever's happened in this car's life at this point this is where the pencil comes in some of you guys are familiar with it some of you guys are not but you want to come around and circle beyond where it's low i don't want you guys in here circling circle out where you know it's good the reason is this epoxy that is showing is a hybrid epoxy it is a epoxy to seal up bare metal it is also a high build primer we're trying to eliminate having so much primer on the car you're trying the goal is you want the body work as perfect as possible that you come around the car and you only prime the car one time so if you mark this stuff accurately and stay away from going all the way to metal if you go to the base metal you and you continue to try to sand this out you are creating a ripple or a wave in the car and the only way you get a perfectly straight car is to one have an acrylic or polycarbonate block that is completely flat you're not using a velcro you're using a sticky back sandpaper to your block and at this point you're going to come around and just notate where you see filler is needed and even if it's small the reason that this is crucial that you stop ahead of time is because right now we still have a little bit of material with the high build epoxy that we can float this thing out at the very end if we're going to come through and we're just going to scuff the areas that have not had a tooth to accept more filler and what we're going to do is we are going to use the pencil for two things it's your guide on where you're going to put the filler and reapply it's also the guide for when you come back and you start to block this specific area down as soon as you start to see the pencil show up you stop it's the same thing you get a very quick visual of primer you get a quick visual of the pencil mark and you stop now we're talking about 80 grit right so 80 grit we're using it to get out your your bigger low areas and then as you go up in grits we like to use 80 grit then i go to 120 grit 150 grit and then 220 after 220 is when we like to prime the whole car if you think about it like a magnifying glass you're looking at it from far back with 80 grit and every grit that you upgrade you are going to see more and more details start to show up and imperfections so if you're roughing it in you can move at a pretty good pace and as you go up a grit it's a lighter touch and if you go up another grit a little bit lighter of a touch to the point where you are just letting the block guide along the filler ever so slightly it's after you get all of these areas that are not very apparent showing where you have a low that you're going to start using guide coat we use a dry guide coat we like the merka one it's a finer granulated guide coat to where it really goes into even the fine sand scratches as high as like 2000 to 3000 grit when you're wet sanding clear we even use it for that so this is how you dial in roughing in a car and ultimately here's what you guys got to understand i know this is a video and i know you guys think this is edited but with putting it on and with sanding it no more than 20 minutes and i'm 80 percent done with the trunk of this car no more without a doubt i only sanded this thing for 10 minutes it only took us a total of five minutes per spread to put it on and then we spent more time waiting for it to set up than we actually did having to work it you should be thinking about all of these things to work smarter not harder and then the whole goal is at the very end you're using that last little bit of primer to be able to feather out the finer grits at that point you're not removing a dent you're removing scratches when you get to 120 and above finer grits it's just removing scratches and imperfections at the very end is where you really dial it in the wet sanding and you can actually check your surface and make sure there's no waves or ripples that's going to be the biggest takeaway for this guys we're going to come back we're going to scuff these small little areas and we're going to reapply and just give you guys the raw demonstration of how we feather that out we're coming back and we are specifically putting it on the areas that have our pencil marks the other thing you guys should take into consideration is the board if you spread your filler out on the board especially if it's a hot day this isn't as a critical in the winter time if it's bunched up this stuff is obviously kicking it's getting harder with the hardener in it it gets hot and as it creates heat if this is thicker you will have it harden faster on you instead of if you spread it out and then apply it as little bits you also have more control on what you're putting on the spreader itself and the big thing that i teach all the time is as you spread once you've gotten the center area that you need smooth feather your edges make sure that your filler is going beyond your pencil line i don't care if this center section is a plateau and you come in if you're straight up and down you're scraping it off and as you lay it down you're putting more filler on so i don't care if you come in like so and you're just swiping the edge to be smooth the other thing that we also like to show is i know we touched based on it real quick about the mixture that you're putting the hardener in this if you know how long it took you that you could work your filler so let's just say you guys are not using this filler to extend your time let's say you're using the crappy u-pole that we had in here before if that was the case you could actually adjust your mix ratio to give you the work window if you were to put honey in this you might get a better consistency but it's not going to make your work window longer adjust it for what you guys need i just try to stay as close as i can to the 50 to 1 mix right now we're actually at 60 to 1. i'm gonna go around and we're going to just keep covering the areas that we have lows with the pencil then i'm going to start blocking this all out i'm going to leave you guys the worst one to show you the example of how you know how you feather these out without creating a low around it that's the biggest struggle i see guys do is they try to fix one little spot and they just created a bigger issue we've already come through we took the same block we've used from the beginning and we've worked down all of those areas that we circled and then refilled again we saved this one for you guys so that way i can show you what i mean by excuse me by creeping up on this when you're when you're blocking this down and you have a smooth edge we're going to come back through with cheese grater this is optional i like to just buzz down those tiny little bits of high it's just a saving production on time the biggest thing here is when you select the block having your hands in the correct area we know that our low spot is here and we know that our block bridges that we also know that if i was to take my hands and hold them only on the handles that's kind of why sometimes i don't care for the big kid blocks because it's it's training you incorrectly on what you're physically doing with the block you are trying to take down the high first and then as things start to even out you do things very evenly so i'm even though i'm using a block that is bridging it i'm using one hand to grab the handle and push and pull and i'm using one hand to keep even pressure and i want to stay so if i'm standing this and i'm going way over here i am creating a low everywhere around that i go i want to focus first only on the area that we've added filler and stay on the high again i'm just using this hand to push pull and this hand to guide the pressure i also guys i want you to listen to your sandpaper get in tune with when you're blocking if your sandpaper is too worn out it's not going to sound like it's cutting it's more or less just guiding gliding over the high and if it's not cutting good you have to i mean some of these guys they're trying to save a buck and they don't want to spend the money on sandpaper but by doing that you're hurting yourself because you are going to create a load you have to have something that is cutting that down i can tell you already that this sandpapers toast we got to swap it out so let me get that changed and we'll come right back but listen maybe you guys can hear the difference i don't know in the block it just sounds like it's gliding versus when you actually listen to it pay attention to it at your own alright we got the new sandpaper it's a lot louder sounding i don't know if it comes up on the video or not i'm focusing on keeping my hands within the area of the new filler that we've reapplied now as you get down closer to what i call level we are going to come in this is the merka dry guide coat in black they do sell this in white if you guys need it the reason that we wait to apply this is it doesn't like to stick on a shiny surface so you got to scuff it down typically we would do the entire thing but for this demonstration and with the camera i'm just going to show you guys this small area now you can see already where our major high areas are they're going to show up first if you see filler or i'm sorry not filler primer show up pivot move stay away from it and again notice too i'm trying to stay on the high until i start to see this more and more uniformly show up keep your hands focused on all these sharp lines to get it down smooth uh notice how the pencil mark is starting to show up this is where you want to start moving away from it the whole goal here is we're keeping very minimal mil thicknesses of filler on this car to the point where we know it's flat if you put the pencil on the flat from the beginning when you got it all blocked down in the rough end part when you come back for the detail as that pencil starts to show up you can then focus around so we got it here we're going to start focusing more over on this side until that pencil starts to show up once the majority of the pencil shows up that's where you want to either stop reevaluate figure out if now what was a low is now smaller and we need to reapply a third time or if it's going to clean up then we stop we re-guide code again and we upgrade to from 80 to 120 and the whole part is because you've left that last little bit of mil thicknesses high plus the epoxy primer you can then very evenly come back through and even out those last little bits every time you reapply in a different area you are creating inconsistencies so if you leave it just a tiny high at the very end as you upgrade to remove scratches and evenness it just feathers everything out perfectly first shot also i'm holding the block up here on the back side i'm still using it to push and pull but my main focus is right here on this edge to get these to feather out i'm staying on the high because i don't want you guys to think i'm way out here i'm sanding this down no i'm actually pulling up and i'm focusing this hand check it out there's a pencil line and if you have areas that are not fully cleaning up that's where you need to learn to stop and reapply then your pencil mark went from this big low to that little tiny low and that's why i talk about this wave of filler right you come in and you lay call it 500 grams of filler and then as that's setting up as long as you are reapplying over what's still wet you can continually put it on but i don't like to go down the entire car get this flat work it down because what's going to happen is every time that you come back and reapply you can also come back and hit the tiny little areas that just need a little tiny bit more and by the time you work your way through everything from where you started starts to be finished completely and you're moving up in grits as you go all the way through all right we blew it off for you guys so you could actually see what's left and you can see how we've stayed in the high and the guide coat is still showing us how we have not even come out here and affected the areas that were already perfect at this point you can then make the determination if you see a massive low you know you can just stop it there and then circle it and fix that what was big smaller so forth all we have left in just the two couple times that we've swiped this trunk lid is a couple spots right here one on the keyhole area and i'm going to feather this right out and we will just keep moving through this panel we really did this video to update you guys and show you how good that rage ultra and ultra extra is i hope this helps you yes it is worth the bang of the buck you will struggle with this if you use a different filler that's harder i do recommend a 3m again it just depends on your heat your climate do what works for you guys continue to learn share what you know and we'll see you guys on the next one [Music] [Music] [Music] you

Channel: SYLVESTERS CUSTOMS

Views: 406,372

Keywords: Body Filler, Body Work, How to Correctly Block Body Filler, How to Mix Body Filler, How to Spread Body Filler, acrylic blocks, applying body filler, auto body repair techniques, bare metal, bellos kustoms, best body filler, body filler dent repair, body filler tutorial, bondo, diy auto school, diy automotive school, diy body filler, japhands kustoms, make it custom, metal finishing, my friend pete, ppg primer, sylvester customs, sylvesters customs

Id: xa4Hj2qqW6w

Length: 47min 23sec (2843 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 22 2022