How to properly use auto body filler (bondo) for dent repair. mix, apply, and block to perfection!

howdy howdy Chris here back in the garage today working on the Chevy truck Fender now in the last episode if you caught that we started the repairs by Glue pulling this Fender and getting most of that dent out then we went around with a hammer and Dolly straightened out some of those wavy areas and those imperfections and then we hooked up the g90e and did our final pulls on it and this is what we ended up with start to come out really nice today is all about body filler I'm going to share with you how to mix apply and block sand body filler so let's get into it okay we got some upole lightweight filler here this upole lightweight gold one thing I want to recommend if you're just starting out with body filler get yourself a quality body filler doesn't have to be the most expensive but do not buy the cheapest filler out there it's going to be very difficult to sand and it's going to cause a lot of frustration we want to fold this in till it's all war uniform color press out any air try and avoid stirring it if you stir it you can introduce air to the filler and that's going to cause pin holes so we're just going to put one thin coat over this and then we'll block it out and see where we're at we may have to put another coat on but all we're trying to do is fill those low areas those waves so we don't have a ton of filler on this we're just going to get a little bit on our spreader here I'm just going to start at the top I'm going to press it in to start with so all this metal and the surrounding paint paint was prepared for filler with 80 grit sandpaper on an orbital sander and we are applying the filler over the edge of the paint you can do that but you always want to check your technical data sheet for the product you're using also you want to make sure you have a clean surface before you start applying your filler I like to use isopropyl alcohol you could also use automotive prep solvent I'll try to leave links to the products I'm using like the prep solvent the isopropyl alcohol and this body filler here I do like this body filler it's not super expensive ensive but it works really well and it Sands very easy now I'm going to ease up on the pressure a little bit so the first coat we pressed it into the metal but on the second coat we want to ease up on the pressure and allow that filler to fill those low areas if you press too hard you're going to push it out of those low areas we'll let that dry and then we'll block it out see where we're at so I've got some 0 grit on this medium siiz block we're just going to start this way and work our way over you want to block it in an x pattern we're going to block it in sections I don't want my scratches to go too far past the body work there's a lot of different ways to start the blocking process says some guys like to use a coarse paper like a 36 grit just to knock the roughness down on the filler and then others like to use a DA because this is such thin filler I'm just going to start out with 80 grit this filler Sands really easy so it doesn't really take any extra time to start with 80 and then I don't have to remove those deeper 36 scratches there's nothing wrong with any of those techniques it's just finding what works for you but if you're starting out I would start with 0 grit use a quality body filler you don't want something that's rock hard to sand you want something that Sands nice and easy it'll eliminate a lot of frustration we finished our initial blocking we did break through into bare metal in some areas so I did have to knock down a section here I had to knock down this metal here so I use my flat spoon and knock that down we've got a couple little low areas here and here now I did break through into bare metal there here but this is not low this section right here is low so one thing you got to determine when you break through into bare metal what you need to determine is is that metal higher than the rest of the fender or is the area around it low in this case the area around it is low so we're going to put some filler right in here we're going to cover this whole Fender but we want to make sure we get some filler right in there so we can build this up just a little bit once I have that I want to get the low areas so I'm going to fill these low areas here and then I'm going to put a coat over this whole section now I'm not pressing really hard here because I don't want I want to spread it evenly over this whole repair area I don't want to push the filler out and I'm going to put a little right over this edge here so we can transition it into the rest of this Fender next we're going to let this dry it usually takes about 10 to 15 minutes and then we'll block sand this out with 80 grit I'll share with you how to use a guide coat to find your high and low areas and then we'll talk about using polyester your glazing putty and why you might want to do that so darus went ahead and applied a guide coat to this Fender and then he started in the front section worked his way back and blocked this Fender out we are still using 80 grit sandpaper to block this so we got most of this blocked out it looks really good over here so there's his Block in this section here he's using this flexible block so he can shape it to the Contours of the fender but he's going to finish blocking this out then we're going to put some glazing putty over it I'll share with you how we do that and what that process this looks like darus is using a flexible block because this Fender has a contour to it a natural contour and we want to make sure that Block's going to lay flat on that panel if your block is teetering on the panel then you're not going to get a true block and you're not going to get it truly straight so just make sure you're using the correct block for the situation you're in now he is going to apply a guide coat here this is just a charcoal based guide coat that's going to show his low area so as he blocks over it as the panel's blocking straight it'll leave that guide coat in those low areas so this is an easy way to check your work to make sure it's straight now guide coat doesn't always show everything so you want to start developing a feel with your hand now you run your hand quickly across the panel and you can feel any higher low areas or imperfections okay this is the glazing putty we're going to use it's USC icing this is just a finishing putty it's going to fill any imperfection so we've got a few little pin holes here a few little waves we're going to correct it with this so I just put some on here we've got our hardener here we're going to mix it up till it's all one uniform color and then we'll lay it over this whole repair area this stuff is really thin it Sands easy it's just kind of an insurance policy to fill any deeper scratches that we might have missed or any pin holes so I'm just getting a little bit on my spread here I'm going press it in [Music] for [Music] [Applause] see how smooth it is nice and smooth put a real thin coat over here okay so I'm going to block this out with 180 grit sandpaper I am still using this flexible block because this has a natural contour and I'm going to use both hands at times to make sure I have some even pressure on it we not putting a lot of pressure on or letting the Sandpaper do the work but I want to make sure it's laying flat on that panel once I've went ahead and knocked off the roughness of this icing with the 180 grit sandpaper we we're going to go ahead and add a guide coat again we'll block sand that out with 180 make sure we've removed any of those deep scratches or imperfections and then I will block it with 320 grit sandpaper before we add our primer I did switch over to a smaller block and I blocked it in sections from the rear of the fender to the front it's going to help me with this Contour in the front of this Fender and I also want to feel over it as I block make sure I'm not feeling any waves if I feel some waves I can block those out a little bit so if I feel any little high spots I can conate I'm blocking that high spot down to meet the rest of the panel now this is all in filler we're not going to run into any bare metal here or anything we're just straightening out this glazing putty so now I switched over to this adjustable long block I can adjust this to meet the Contour of the fender really handy little tool but this way I get a longer stroke over this Fender I cover more surface area it's going to help me get this straight so here you can see I'm adjusting the Contour of this block it's pretty interesting tool I like it if you want to check it out I will leave a link in the description so you can take a look at it so now I'm going to use an orbital sander and I'm going to sand the perimeter with 320 grit sandpaper and I'm using an interface pad which is a soft foam pad that's going to move with the Contours of the panel it's going to keep you from digging into your filler so I'm going to run over this filler with 320 try and remove some of those 180 grit scratches so we got a little low spot at the top of this Fender so I'm going to have darus fill it with some icing we're just going to fill that spot only the rest of this Fender is ready ready to go and then we'll move on to the primer so dares just filled a low spot here there's a low spot right here that we're going to block out so he's going to block that out now with 180 and then we'll be pretty much ready to primer this [Music] okay dar's got this all blocked out so now it's ready for primer he's going to go ahead and mask it off and then we're going to apply two coats of 2K urethane primer we're using the upole primer we'll share all that with you and how to paint this truck in the next episode listen I appreciate each and every one of you watching I hope you found this information helpful if you did consider are subscribing to the channel liking this video and leave me a comment down below listen we'll see you next time on garage noise

Channel: Garage Noise

Views: 60,903

Keywords: How to properly use auto Body filler, Bando, Auto body training, D I y auto body, Guide for using auto body filler, Garage noise, Bondo basics, Is blocking auto body filler, Sandy auto body filler, Dent repair with bondo

Id: HxQgQp4gb2U

Length: 12min 12sec (732 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 27 2024