Vass Spade Soles Shoe Repair

elissa Steve from Vito's leather works and today's project is this beautiful fast shoes Vass if you guys haven't heard of it it's made in Budapest whoo Depeche not sure how to pronounce that now as you can see it's a brain issue most of these are handmade but the guy wants customer wants a spade sole so you know spacely's got that sharp edges on the sides here a little bit more pointed you know outwards and basically we're going to take this whole soul apart take the welt off and then just kind of restart fresh and we're going to do blind stitch also the way this isn't right here and we're going to try to see if we can salvage the heel the top lift the same as is I kind of like this if I can't all salvage it if not we'll just replace it because this is this is kind of kind of looks good with all the nails like that keep it still the kind of original look all right so let's get started here we go yo here we go yo what's up what's up with this and they were you I should get my tools out before before I start my projects this is early alright so let's get started with this top lift not a good sign now it's a good quality company right yes but I guess even good quality company sometimes they'll take shortcuts this is paper not good not what I was expecting from this company its fiber board it's it's it's paper it's paper he'll base hmm well I still like the company you know but but maybe they got a less headline you know if they offer little cheaper material I don't know but this is not useful anymore this is done we have three nails holding the heel base on in the past you know we've seen I want as many as seven you know but I guess we'll have more nails when we're securing the new heel base to the to the shoe some people cut this to cut those nails and leave them in there I don't like to leave them in there I like to remove them because I'm gonna replace it with me over one so I don't like leaving them there all right well it's kind of a rough start but I think it'll be okay let's continue so these shoes are handmade shoes okay and when I say handmade they're they're literally hand laughs that there's a lot of there's a lot of in the production shoes where they have machines they stretch the uppers onto the last and and it's all done by machines those times productions these are all done by hand the wealth are stitched by hand the souls are stitched by hand so they're good quality shoes don't get me wrong just this kind of threw me off a little bit and um but it's okay it's not bad I'm gonna apply a little bit of turpentine here just to loosen up the glue on the edge some people go ahead and pour the turpentine all over the bottom of the shoe it's not necessary because the turpentine is not gonna absorb into the bottom of the sole so it's just a waste of turpentine what you want to do is you want to loosen up the glue that's that's holding the sole onto the welt and the rest should peel off so every time I see that I think it's a waste of wasted taping time it's a shame that we have to cut into a brand new shoe but it is what it is and once I think the sole off I'm going to protect the uppers wrap around with plastic we don't want to damage the uppers me not that's going to get damaged but we don't get a dirtier then then it needs to be it's on here now a couple things showing you guys something this is called the heel Rand okay most of the time it gets nailed on this is done by wood pegs very cool these are all wood pegs they act as nails and they they secure that on there now this is called a holdfast that's the wealth obviously right let me back up a little bit that's the wealth right there and this is all hand-stitched together okay now most of the production of shoes you're gonna find is like this they'll have a footbed this is a gamming the uppers and the wealth are stitched on like this this has not done that way this is basically this is a holdfast they call this a footbed right so they opened a channel on the sides which that's what you're looking at right there and everything gets stitched together this is a much better quality way of making shoes yeah most most mass production even at that good quality mass production will not do it this way because because this needs to be done by hand that's why it's if you can see that handmade again I'm don't get me wrong guys I think I think this is a very good quality shoe a couple things they did made it better maybe like for example this filler right here that's fiberboard also this filler is just it's it's exactly what it is the filler it gives it that little bit of hump right in the middle of the waist there well we'll replace it with leather other than that it's a good quality shoe now those are those few things are they critical to the quality issue in that really there's a lot of other companies for example Allen Edmonds will use fiber board heel bases so not that we're comparing Allen Edmonds to vest obviously this is much higher much much higher quality than Allen Edmonds is but just giving you guys an idea some manufactures will do that I think these retail for like 800 if I'm not mistaking they hunted and up this particular job I believe we charge 650 if I'm not mistaken so now we get to clean all the threads all the cork all the all the wood pegs prepped that surface for the new welt all right let's continue [Music] I'm gonna use this for the wilt because normally this is what we would use for a well okay but since we're making it into a spade so we need a little bit of wider they do make wide welts for these but rather make my own here I'm gonna basically trace it out cut it I'll start stitching on there [Music] I mean they have hand they have hand tools that that make those grooves I like living on the edge with the you know sharp trimmer blade right on my fingers really anyways you guys can see it's coming along slowly but surely I just want to take the edge off here a little bit now this pretty little leather is not as dense as I would like it to be so we're gonna hammer it down a little bit tighten the fibers well some of you guys may hear that fan in the background that's that's just the air condition unit running it'll shut off when it cools down in here I guess we can say it's hammington summertime now we got to make sure that sometimes a hammer and and you know needles and stuff like that damages the surface of your hammer and if you don't want any marks on the areas that you're hammering you got to sand that off so in fact the habitat reason I noticed that because I left some marks on the piece of leather right there but it's not going to be noticeable all right let's continue basically we're just going to follow the old holes stitch this new welt on to the chute this is called jerk needle Neil's got a hook on the end you put the needle through the hole attach the thread to the hook you're looping like this attached to the hook pull the thread through attach should we run the other thread through the loop and now you pull it nice and tight there's other methods of using your stitching waltz on shoes some people will be use an awl to poke the hole line and run two needles I think it's called a saddle stitch you can do it that way you can do it any which way you please whatever you're comfortable with so we'll go that will go wrong all the way there until it ends let's continue keep old leather this is the JR leather that we resold one time and we made a mistake and we took it off and we salvaged a so we're going to use part of that as the filler in the shank area basically it's gonna give it that it's gonna give it that little bit of a home [Music] yes I know it could use some oil but you know what I've boiled this thing down I've got poured oil over it's usually not that squeaky soon as I'm video things been squeaky I got one of these days I'm gonna like take completely apart that's the only way not right now I got work to do I gots work to do alright so that's the piece of leather right it's gonna go right in the middle just like that okay first we look at the shangkun though Oh at this stage basically okay I've got a rough cut of the wealth you see how it's got hump there a little bit of sharp edge there almost like a square toe there we're gonna put this in we're gonna fill it up with court we're gonna sand it with the sole on and then give it that final trim with the so long okay so we're making some progress I reuse the old mule chinks will fit this in here and we'll give it a give it a cork like that's that's it's getting there alright let's continue we are getting there everything so far has been kind of structurally done and then once we put the soul on we'll give it that shape that Spade is soul shape I guess spaetzle was popular in the 30s you know forties fifties even some manufacturers made their shoes really really like 20 slides and some some made it just kind of not as protruding to the edges outside but it's popular in some some fashions cool now we could just sit here and watch the glue dry oh speaking of glue where is it it I use masters all-purpose cement also same with thinner this is thinner master all-purpose cement Master all-purpose thinner people ask me all the time what kind of glue I use well this is it I use masters all-purpose cement it's a good product I'm happy with it you know so okay so I guess we won't wait and watch the glue dry we'll just fast forward a little bit and come back let's continue so while we're waiting for the glue to dry we're gonna cut some heels for the heel bases now this is jay-ar bend okay this comes in a huge piece this is about half of what it usually is okay now even even as good of a quality this leather is around the edges where it's towards the belly of the hide here it's the belly and the neck area stretch a lot therefore the fibers are a lot looser than the back and and the shoulder and the back area so we tend to save those areas for the full sole jobs okay and some of the excite the pieces where it's a little bit soft we'll go ahead and cut heel bases out of because I'd rather use this softer side to make heel bases out of it rather than use it for soles because it's a little bit too soft in my opinion to use for soles the looser the fibres are the faster will wear out and and we don't want that we're going to do three per heel base and we'll glue it all together and give it some shape you know give it like a concave I guess it's called two four five six one more and stay this one this way okay that gave us plenty of eel bases right there this office this I mean as soft as the leather is on the side it's still still very hard hey man don't pull the blade 30 minutes what are you doing I know I know I'll cut the rest of the five on one machine I can fit it in there now [Music] no one else ran out of water you don't know what time it is this fence barely lets me kick in the camera not too bad not too shabby all right we're gonna start cutting and start trimming then we're going to cut away for the French tip and then we're gonna open a channel for a blind stitch we're not gonna hand Stitch the outsole you know the sole like they did in a manufacturer I'm not gonna hand stitch it I've got a machine to do that so I'm going to I'll stitch it with a outsold stitcher alright let's continue [Music] [Music] and there is the blind stitch now the manufacturer doesn't do it this way manufacturer does it from the top you see that slit right there so they cut it the channel from the top lift it up stitch it and push it back down I like doing it this way I don't know why I just do a lot of different ways of doing it you're gonna hear people saying you know when they watch the video hey man why didn't you do it the other way well you can do it the other way you can do it any which way you like if you're fixing the shoes but I'm doing these shoes and this is the way I'd like to do it all right [Music] they're right there go that back down and she's getting there all right let's continue [Music] let that dry this is the other one as you guys can see it's getting there not too shabby all right let's continue these are brass pieces mm-hmm man I am losing my voice these are solid brass now the triumph pieces the triumph tips these are not brass these are brass plated which they'll throw silver over time okay these we're going to save ourselves okay it's not that simple unfortunately you had a shape but to give it a bit a little bit of a curve drill the holes countersink the holes the more detail to me the better it is you know so very soft metal so you got to be careful not to damage it too much I know they're gonna wear it and they're gonna scuff it up but you know what that's that's not the point point this one while it's in your hands you do the best you can and after it leaves your hands you go forget about it I've got no control over it that's continued [Music] all right now that we've got the tip shaped we're gonna remove that we're going to finish the edges I'm going to finish the bottom then we can that's the last thing that's going to be back on I took the plastic off this one because I wanted to put a pattern on the welt and the tools a little hot we want to melt the plastic on the leather on the uppers or lap so we're gonna put and L for left so we don't get them mixed up right love because don't bury a little bit of change all right let's continue this is called a fudge wheel which puts a pattern on the wealth that's a little hat you'd have to take the plastic off this one after all leaves a little bit of a ridges pattern on there you gotta see that just a pattern on the wealth I think shoemakers put the pattern on there and they'll follow that pattern when they were hand stitching it that way the stitches are even with each other all right we're getting there let's continue [Music] [Music] you all right welcome back we're done with another project well there's not much to show the uppers the uppers were brand new to begin with so I guess we'll go directly to the shape of the sole this is what we call Spade sole okay we've got the 100% brass tip french tip triumph shape blind stitch or you don't see the stitch we've got a leather stack heel base it was nailed nine times from the inside instead of three like the main manufacturer did wery stamped his foot size 43 other that you know cleaned conditioned polished not much to clean we wiped it down oh really I was wouldn't that about it it's just a little bit dust from working on it and and other than that it's still you know brainy shoes I like the way they throw now well they're beautiful shoes to begin with I love Val shoes I think they're gorgeous the design the shape of them I think he's gonna get many years of use out of these all right well thank you for joining me losing my voice again I know what's going on there if you haven't subscribed please do so hit the bell notification and every time I upload you'll get a notification saying that I uploaded comments share as much as you want we appreciate it if you have any questions please email me and betos at yahoo.com people are still asking questions at the comment section you know it's like how much does it cost to repair my shoes I don't know guys come on don't ask a question like that really how am I supposed to know Lisa give me some details if you could ask a question on the comment section but anyway please email me okay any questions you got email me and I'll see if I can get to it and answer your answered question is what's the best as I can alright see you again next time take care

Channel: Bedo's Leatherworks LLC

Views: 100,407

Keywords: shoe repair, shoe restoration, shoe recrafting, dress shoe repair, dress shoe restration, bag restoration, leather goods, leather restoration, allen edmonds, louis vuittion, gucci, tom ford, christian louboutin, mens style, men shoes, john lobb, soles, fancy soles, fancy soles john lobb, jr soles, blind stitch, leather, leather work, style, fashion, new age, cobbler, craftsmen, artist, custom work, walkthrough, remade, shoe, shoe shop, shoe sale, mens fashion, church shoes, AE

Id: ganDFYer910

Length: 45min 6sec (2706 seconds)

Published: Tue Jul 14 2020