Creality CR-30 - 3D PrintMill - Unbox & Setup

hey guys today we got a pretty special printer from creality which is officially called the cr30 but also known as the 3d print mill so this is a pretty unique printer and in this video we're going to unbox it set it up and do some prints so hopefully you guys enjoy the video let's get started [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so this is the box that the cr30 comes in and you guys can see the picture here what it looks like and most of you probably guys recognize naomi wu which had something to do with this 3d print mill our dimensions on the box are here in centimeters and the weight on the shipping label is 46 pounds which is about 22 kilograms so let's go ahead and open it up and this is what we see on the top so we got the black soft foam and it is formed very nice and this is what we see on top so it looks like we have all our pieces here and you guys can see how everything is nicely packed and protected so here looks like we have the manual and some documentation some stickers we do get a roll of white pla on a 200 gram spool that's nice looks like below that there's quite a few other things we got our full-size sd card which is eight gigs and a usb adapter looks like some extra couplers and nozzles and here we have a baggie of hardware looks like bolts and t-nuts and things like that to put the printer together tools and zip ties some snippers things like that a cleanout needle looks like an optical sensor maybe an extra one our power cord which is us type decent length the spool holder which is already put together inside of two pieces which is metal and then the plastic part so over here looks like we got a frame piece to somewhere with a filament detector here so yeah as you guys can see this is definitely going to be some assembling required obviously all right the next piece here looks like we have i guess you would call this the upper portion of the printer but it is on an angle so i guess it could still be the gantry right so yeah this definitely looks very interesting guys it is set up in a core xy configuration so that is hard this is a core xy machine that's quite interesting we are going to look at this a lot closer a little later and looks like it is tethered here to the bottom so carefully remove this but yeah check out this phone guys very well packed and so here we can see the bottom you guys probably can't see it very well but it is all connected so we're going to be a little careful here probably would have been a little better to unbox this thing differently but in any case we also do have the controller here looks like old school kind that's also connected to the printer so a lot of it looks like it's pretty pre-assembled we just need to put the main parts together but so i'm going to try to pull it all out together here guys which is definitely a little tricky and the base is very heavy so there we go so yeah that looks like everything for the box very nicely packed and very well protected all right so this is very exciting and quite a unique looking contraption here and you guys can see the belt itself it's quite interesting looking so it's kind of like a treadmill i guess there's some kind of adjusters here looks like maybe for leveling or something very interesting now i don't know if it's possible but i'm going to flip this thing around see if we can see the bottom because it's all tethered here it makes it a little more complicated all right so we managed to flip it around and yeah we have four nice large squishy rubber feet and you guys can see we do have a plate here that can be looks like taken off so we're gonna go ahead and remove this and see the electronics inside so let's go ahead and grab the tool bag which also has some snippers very nice a nozzle wrench looks like a calibration spacer of 0.10 so yeah nozzle cleanout needle some zip ties and our tools which include a set of allen wrenches a flathead screwdriver and a few open-ended wrenches let's go ahead and find the allen wrench we need for these bolts i'll go ahead and remove them all right that should be all of them okay and the plate comes off and there's a little fan attached to it for cooling which i'll go ahead and unplug get out of the way here but yeah it looks pretty simple under here guys so yeah this appears to be more of a design kind of change here more than on the electronic side so yeah that's quite interesting it makes this printer actually quite simplistic which is good because it probably means it's very dependable so yeah starting here we can see the power supply the on and off switch that's fused with the power input here it is the slim kind and we have a fan here that cools it off and if we go on this side of the power supply we can see that we have our voltage selection there and ours is on 230 which i need to switch to the 115. i'm going to go ahead and do that very simple so yeah make sure you check that before you forget about it that looks like the branding of the power supply and yeah everything is very nicely crimped and tightened and routed and you guys can see we got these ferrites here i guess for power noise reductions a lot of that kind of stuff here so very interesting so this is the creality board the stepper drivers are integrated but they do have heatsinks on top there's another heatsink here looks like for the heated bed and then we got the main chip right there which might be a little hard to see but it is an arm processor full-size sd card very nice but yeah very nice and clean and what you'd expect from creality and that is simplicity with great build quality so yeah very happy how this printer is put together so far so i'm gonna put the lid back on and flip it around and we'll start the assembly all right so we got everything flipped back around well let's go ahead and grab our manual so let's see what else is in here so we got a little warranty card quality certificate some stickers that's cool an envelope with something in it i guess a little thank you from creality that's nice and i get some information of how to contact them very cool we also get an after sales card that you know if you have any kind of trouble or have any questions of what's covered everything is here including this warranty card that you can fill out and go from there so yeah lots of documentation here another thank you for your order and finally the manual itself so creality usually does a great job with their manuals and this one's no exception looks like the parts list of everything that's included and here's our step one for installation so for step one looks like we're gonna be working on the front of the printer installing these two rails and that's these two right here so one of them that had the filament detector and the other one actually i didn't even pull out of the foam lamps still left in there so yeah they simply go here on the front and just like that i guess but we're also going to need four m512 bolts which let's go ahead and find them here in our packet so they are all labeled but it's a little hard to see it's on the actual bag it's a really nice presentation but not as obvious so if you're wondering it is on the bag so we got m512s right here so this is what we're looking for all right so hopefully you guys can see here so the one with the filament detector is going to go here on the right side if you're looking to the front and the plain one is going to go on this side which is the left side so let's go ahead and grab our little bolts and grab our wrench and go ahead and install this side here so i'm not going to tighten it yet because this is part of the frame that's going to connect the back part there so i want to wait before i you know solidify it because it can move around a little bit here and there so we'll go ahead and start this one also all right and we'll leave it loose for now so we can move around and let's go to the next step so the next step is a little more exciting because we're going to be connecting i guess the upper portion here to these rails we just installed and also to the back of the printer on the base so we're going to need quite a few different bolts which are 8 and five eighteen two m five twelfths and two m five forty fives and if you guys look here maybe you can see they're they're numbered so we got 20 and 20 is here on the sides on the back the manual does a good job here telling you where each bolt goes so here we have the packet of m5 18s get those bolts ready we're going to need two of the m512s which are the shorter black bolts and two of these longer m545 all right so hopefully you guys can see this pretty well but yeah we're going to just grab this upper portion and we're going to set it on top of here and also it's going to line up here so let's go ahead and try that now make sure that all your wires here are not tangled up which might seem to be fine maybe i do need to make a spin let's see yeah that's a lot better so i just spun it one way i think i got it angled as i was moving it around but in any case make sure you're not too tangled up and it should just sit right on top of these rails here and then down here it's going to line up also with the channel and just kind of sit down so as you guys can see it should kind of all kind of fall into place so we're going to grab three 518 bolts and they're going to go here and then also on the other side so i'm going to go ahead and start them so i'm not going to tighten them at all we're just kind of running them down and before we go to the other side let's go ahead and put the longer bolt which is the m545 through here and it's going to go literally through this channel into this one and then the smaller one the m512 will go here so yeah this ain't too bad actually it only seems a little complicated in the beginning but once you get to it it's pretty intuitive here of how it comes together actually guys the bolt that goes here is the same one which is the m5 by 18 which we used over here same one goes here the one i was showing you earlier was not the right one i'm not tightening anything i haven't tightened this bolt i haven't tightened that one just kind of ran everything down so let's flip it around and go to the other side and do the same thing so yeah same thing here and three bolts on the bottom and then same bolt up here and the large one over here yeah this thing lines up very well together and seems to be all pretty good and solid there so yeah the reason we haven't tightened everything because we want to make sure that the frame is going to sit exactly where it wants to and kind of you know stretch where it needs to so you probably want to kind of push down on it a little bit make sure everything is you know in its place and then when it feels very solid there's no any kind of unevenness we can go back and tighten all the bolts that we put in so i'm going to start with these on the bottom and then we'll make our way up and then go to the back so remember also the very first bolts we put in on these pieces down there also and this is the reason why you want to wait to tighten everything is because you want everything to line up perfectly and kind of settle down at where it wants to be and while you are tightening all that you can go ahead and you know tighten the other factory bolts that we haven't touched yet they look like they could be tightened a little too so yeah you just kind of you know go around the printer and tighten everything because bolts do loosen up over time so we are not done yet because there are two more five by 12 millimeter bolts that actually go from the bottom here so let's go ahead and see and we can go ahead and grab those things wow that's quite heavy but yeah maybe you guys can see there's one here and one here and so this kind of holds it from the bottom and we can go ahead and tighten these up all the way all right so yeah i think we are done with this step but while we're under here guys check out this motor that looks like it has some kind of gear reduction here which then goes from this gear to this main gear here that turns the belt very interesting this is a very unique printer indeed so we do have some wiring here that looks like connects here so i guess i'm going to go ahead and connect that but yeah it looks like guys we are definitely getting somewhere because we have the frame built and it's very solid and feels really good so yeah that was all step two so for step three we're installing the spool holder which goes here looks like for looking at the front on the right side so here we have this pull holder and it looks like it goes right here somewhere maybe according to the picture and we are going to need some t-nuts two of them and two five by eight bolts let's grab the five by eight and also two t-nuts so we're gonna grab this pull holder and we're gonna put the bolt through there and then on the other end we're gonna put the t-nut gonna start it here and just like that you guys can see on both of the bolts and so the way t-nuts work is they line up with the channel once you start screwing it in it should spin inside the groove here and then lock in so yeah it's just going to drop into the channel like that then we're going to grab our wrench probably can't see that but yeah you want to probably unscrew it a bit but you want to line it up as close as possible to the center of the channel and then as you start tightening it the t-nut should turn and lock in into the channel if you're having trouble and it's not locking in try unscrewing it and then screwing it again and that should turn it so it is a little fiddly sometimes it does work all right so one of mine caught now the other one so now i just need to tighten it all right so once you get those tight your pool holder should be nice and planted here so so yeah the filament will go on here and then it'll kind of feed through the filament detector and then through there into the extruder all right so that was step three step four is installing the display controller which also goes right here and looks like we need to feed it through here maybe yes and mine actually got unplugged so make sure you check that plug it back in and yeah it's simply going to sit right here right on the end so you kind of want to rout your wires here on the back where they're not you know going to the front of the spool holder but the back of it so yeah same little bolts with the t-nuts we'll go ahead and peel it here on the screen a bit so we can put the bolt in the t-nut on the back of it same way again make sure your plug is plugged in mine keeps on plugging for some reason i guess i keep moving around too much but yeah so same way guys we're just going to line it up with the channel and the t-nuts will fall into the groove and then we're going to grab our wrench and start tightening it up yeah and it should grab so that one grabbed make sure you're centered up same thing here and that one grabbed also so we're going to tighten it up a little bit but not too hard guys because this top face plate is plastic so you don't want to over tighten it but yeah that's how the screen goes on all right so for step five looks like we just need to connect all of our connectors everywhere simple enough and then here we have some leveling tips so this is going to be quite interesting on the leveling because we are at a 45 degree angle so this could be quite unique but i'm sure we'll figure it out here so we got our display plugged in if we move over here to the extruder we can see that it's already plugged in but we do have another wire here with the other motors here which says y on it which will plug in under here to the y axis so i guess because this is a core xy printer it makes sense that the belt here is the z so yeah that makes it a little bit confusing than usual but that's okay so we do have another plug here a small one this one actually goes to the filament detector and there's a plug on the other side it should just plug in so this wire looks pretty good here and then from our hot end we have the ptfe tubing that will go into the coupler here so there is a little clip that we have to pull out from the coupler then we're going to push the ptfe tubing to the extruder and then we're going to insert this little clip back in and that's going to lock in the tube so now we went ahead and plugged in that one wire on the bottom you guys saw earlier and believe it or not guys that appears like everything that we have to plug in so yeah not too complicated here all right so let's take a closer look here at the cr30 print mill so yeah it looks quite unique for sure let's go ahead and start here on the top you guys can see the two motors here for the core xy movement we got the extruder here which is a dual gear very nice i definitely like this one here it's more mechanical old-school which are my favorite the motors look pretty nice so you guys can see the 45 degree angle and this is what the top rail here rides on so we got four rollers two are stationary two adjustable so if your rollers are too tight or too loose you can see here we got eccentric nuts and you can adjust them to be closer and farther away and what you want is you want to be able to spin the roller like this one spinning here in one spot so that just tells you that you know they're loose enough so if you do need to adjust yours you can right here with the provided wrench so the back of the printers there's nothing too interesting here we have the belts that run for the core x y now one thing to note is that these belts are really thick so yeah it's more of a heavy duty kind of build here on this printer and they all come together here to on each side to move the hot end left to right but also the whole axis up and down so so here we have one of the end stop switches and then the other end stop switch is actually in there maybe till it's actually an optical sensor with the nub right here that goes into it and the main part of the printer which is this really large belt that runs across pretty long length here so the idea here is that you can continuously print as it peels off as the belt continues to you know run round and round so this is the main feature of this printer what makes it really unique now the belt itself has got a really interesting kind of i'm not sure even though how to explain it some kind of like a vinyl or something and it's got like a little pattern in it so hopefully that sticks pretty well got really heavy duty rollers with bearings here and there looks like to be adjustable parts here that you know you can move closer and farther but it appears to be nicely pre-tensioned and hopefully it's all level and running straight and we don't have to mess too much with it but if you do all of these pieces here they do adjust and we also have some adjustments here that looks like have a locking nut and then we can turn it up and down looks like from there and there's like a plate underneath that so the hot end itself looks pretty generic it does have two parts cooling fans which is nice and the heat block is insulated our heat break fan on the front here and again as noted before it is on a 45 degree angle so that's going to be quite interesting how it's going to put especially the first layer down so so yeah going here to the front you guys can see we have a really big large creality logo and this is also kind of like a little shield here that keeps the prints from going under but theoretically as your print starts to you know go off here it should just peel right off we do have our voltage selection here right up front which we already changed to 115 so if you have to change that to your voltage make sure you do that our full size sd card and here it looks like we have a micro usb connection and to the right of the printer we have the display let's go ahead and peel this protector off well i guess when you pull the knob off yeah the knob just pulls off and you can get it off completely and then we'll push it back in it doesn't really matter which way it goes it spins around circles and circles so it doesn't really matter so the display is definitely you know quite dated looking and i wish they would have went with something a little bit more modern at least keep these huge bezels here to a minimum but you know it is what it is and the finish on the front here doesn't look all that appealing either but in any case it is the control function and it does work pretty well i just feel like for this caliber of printer it should have had a better control display there so but yeah going from there we can see our spool holder so our spool will sit in here filament will go through the detector into the extruder and then from the extruder down the ptfe tubing into the hot end all of our cables are very nicely managed you guys can see very clean design i went ahead and put some zip ties here to clean this part up here but yeah overall very nice looking solid printer and very unique indeed so on the right side we have our power input port that is fused with an on and off switch and on top of that we can see the manufacturing label you guys can see our print volume there is 200 by 170 and infinitely i guess long and 350 watt power supply so yeah guys very excited and honestly a little nervous of how this is going to work with the whole belt and everything so i think for the next part let's go ahead and plug in the cable and turn it on alright so we got it plugged into the wall let's go ahead and turn it on and see what happens all right so it boots up and you probably guys can't see that but there's like a little boot up welcome okay so looks like it's up and running there's definitely some noise from fans quite pronounced actually so yeah i just want to mention that but let's go ahead and see what we got in here i haven't used this kind of system in a while all right so we got let's see motion here what's motion okay so we can move axes individually or we can go home so let's go ahead and click on out of home see what happens let me zoom you guys in here and right off the bat i can see that i think the nozzle is way too low yeah it's literally there's no gap between the bed and the nozzle so it looks like maybe we do need to be adjusting these knobs here to go up and down okay i see how this works so basically the top bolt you unscrew and unscrew it doesn't really do anything and then this washer here is the thing that pushes down on the plate so depending on how much you want to go down this upper one kind of controls that too so it's kind of hard to explain but like right now i pushed it down there is now a bunch of room so yeah it's definitely adjustable it's a little hard to explain how it's adjustable but and as i'm doing this guys i'm realizing that maybe i should be moving this thing so we're going to go to move axes and then move x one millimeter at a time i guess so now we can move it across and see how it is as we go it's got to be exactly the same plane as it is on this side so as we get to this side now we can level that corner correctly because if we disable the steppers we're going to mess everything up and it's just going to fall down okay so that looks about right to my understanding the nozzle is only going to touch the bed at this point here on this so it doesn't move anywhere else so i'm guessing these are probably fine here i got this adjusted pretty well between the two ends hopefully it's close enough to the bed to stick and so as it builds it's going to go up and not you know this way so we should be good so as long as we can get this plane straight here and everything after that is pretty reasonable should be all right i think so i think we're pretty good right there i do have to say that is a little bit tricky here i guess digest of how it all moves because not only is a core xy but it's on a 45 degree angle so yeah anyways i'm gonna go ahead and see if we can preheat here so we'll go to temperature and all the way down to preheat pla and we'll start that so we do have bed heating also which i guess is under the belt here and that's going to 55 and the nozzle is going to 185 so while that's warming up let's go ahead and grab our filament open it up you want to cut it on an angle so we're going to set it here on the spool holder go through the filament detector which glows a little light here indicating detection and then into our extruder arm so i'm going to go ahead and push it all the way through to the hot end and we see some filament coming out over there all right so we're good i can go ahead and raise this maybe we can purge a little more all right so let's grab our sd card that was included plug it in right here in the front and it does look like it goes upside down yes it does so you probably guys can't see but we're gonna go to attach card and then print from card and let's see if we have any kind of g codes here no oh wait here we go model 3d printing okay so there are some g-codes here so let's just go ahead and go with the first one i'm not sure what it is and sorry guys if you can't see anything click on print now let's see what happens for some reason guys i don't think i have much faith that it's going to stick on our first try here but all right there it goes so it's homing get that booger out yeah i feel like i might be a little bit too far from the the build plate now let's see well maybe not yeah it's not low enough okay i wonder if there's a way to adjust that tune okay so there is baby step x and y is this gonna be a z baby step let's see okay so it doesn't let me adjust anything on the z okay so it does appear to be on the y okay so we went up a lot if we go back down i'm going to start the print over and see if i can adjust it on the fly so let's go back stop print all right so we did have somewhat a success there because we figured out how to adjust it so let's see if we can get it right on our second try same print and start the print i'll zoom you guys in maybe you can see a little better what's going on over there while it's heating i'm gonna go ahead and get ready to tune it all right so there we go okay maybe i need to go down just a little more go 0.15 yeah a little more i could see it here from the side a little better so right now i'm 0.25 and that looks just about right actually so yeah it looks like i am still a little high i'm going to go ahead and go down to 0.5 actually so quite a bit lower so i have a feeling that the weight came was actually probably pretty good the way it was adjusted and i messed it up because the nozzle is on a 45 degree angle it really has to be very close to the bed like almost touching in order for it to have a pretty good successful stick to the bed itself so anyways the good part is is that it is adjustable so you can fine tune that as we print it and it's only really important as it starts printing because as continues it's going to only print on that one line there so it's not like you would think where it travels all over the bed it just stays on this plane here because it's on a 45 degree angle it can't really do much more than you know stay on a very very small plane that it has when it gets close to the beds and so if it needs to move you know a long line from here to here the belt will turn not you know the nozzle travel so yeah hopefully that makes sense there yeah we're looking really good let me guys get you from another angle or maybe you can see a little better or maybe you guys can see here a little better but yeah you can see how it's printing on a 45 degree so yeah it's kind of weird to be honest like i can't imagine that and the prints will come out you know as good as a typical 90 degree kind of print where it's straight down but looking at it here initially it definitely doesn't look bad so especially you know with what it has to work with so yeah so far everything looks pretty good and appears to be no issues we are sticking to the bed looks like and the bed is warm and pretty much hot to the touch like you would expect so the heated part of it is working just fine and it appears like we're good to go so yeah i guess we're going to let this thing print out and see what comes out but yeah you guys can see here we got the old school marlin software we're in the baby steps and this is how much i went offset so yeah definitely you know not using this for a while it's a little bit more clumsy it seems like compared to what we got these days but not a big deal everything is here so let's go back here so here we can see all of our parameters so we got 210 on the nozzle 60 on the bed fans at 100 that's our coordinates and all the axes flow rate 100 percentage done and how much time passed which is nine minutes and the bar here doesn't look like it filled up yet so looks like we've got a while to go now we can adjust a few things if we go to like tune we can adjust the speed the nozzle the bed fan flow and then our baby steps here so yeah and you want to adjust the y for up and down that's what worked for me so and you can do a bunch of other things here too so yeah so that's the basics there and i think that's all we really need to know at this point and you guys can see our spool holder is feeding very nicely and then going to the ptfe tubing there into the hot end so there's not like a great angle to film this thing at but it looks like everything is going good so far there whatever is printing see i can move this out of the way it does stick pretty well actually so this is our first print not expecting you know too much to go right here but it would be nice if we can complete it so we can kind of see what we got there and we can learn from it this is a lot different than normal it's still very interesting how this thing is working in any case guys we're gonna let this thing print out and we'll see what comes out right so yeah guys as you saw there that was our first print to pop off the belt and a little mini factory here is going pretty good as you guys can see that the biggest issue that it is having is the start and it did get a little better as we went because i did lower the baby steps even lower so that seemed to help it quite a bit but yeah pretty cool how we can just print and print and they'll just fall right off the edge here as they're completed very cool so i don't know how much more i'm going to print of this because if you look at the screen we're right at nine hours so and it's about halfway maybe a little more so there's quite a bit more printing to do but i don't think i want to print the whole thing that is going to take a while for sure so and you guys can see our filament is getting used up but yeah as far as the operation and the mechanics everything is working perfectly the dual gear extruder is pushing the filament in very nicely precisely and the high end doesn't seem to have any trouble either printing here on this 45 degree angle and if we take our look at our first cube here we can see that the layers are sitting pretty well i don't know if you guys can see that but not bad but it's not perfect for sure so i mean this being core xy plus at a 45 degree angle it's still very impressive of how straight the layers went down so yeah very cool all right so i went ahead and stopped the print because i figured we probably have enough of these things already and it's pretty cool how the belt kept turning and we had two of them that popped off and there was no issue whatsoever once they got to this turn here they just kind of peeled off and dropped on the ground and there is a plate here that kind of prevents from anything large to get in there so it pops it off if it does stick too well i guess so on our first print we can see we had a pretty decent start this is where we started this little lip right here and we were a little bit high but i did lower it then and it seemed fine and check out the bottom guys i don't know if you can see any on this white but it looks really good like surprisingly very flat and uniform so this side is a little rougher because this is where all of our stitching was meaning like where the nozzle moved up i guess and the rest of the sides look pretty good but in any case you can't see too well and there's also a stitching here but overall i would say very good for this type of printer now on our second one we didn't have much luck in starting because it was still too high and so this is what happened here other than that it prints exactly the same as the first one and so on and so on as you guys can see here now i haven't pulled these off the bed so i'm kind of curious how easy to come off let's go ahead and pull this one off and look at that it just pops right off now what i noticed that the back of it is actually sticking better than the front of it okay so this one stuck a little better overall yeah that seems to be really the perfect amount of clearance because it sticks really good yeah very nice now you guys can see that you know we're having trouble on the first parts of the print like the very beginning is where the trouble is and the reason for that is like we talked about earlier we only have one plane so one line that we start off with and then we build off of that one line so there's nothing to push against whenever you're printing straight down you know you have a nice uniform kind of resistance between the nozzle and the bed and the and the filament flows nicely but here you're on a 45 degree angle which makes the hot filament kind of flow out there's no wall to hit to stop it and this is why the first layer is so tricky here but yeah as you guys can see you know all the first layers seem to have trouble now i did lower it down some more and it did get a little better so you can see that we only have a little bit of trouble on this one so this one is pretty darn good here and then the last one was perfect pretty much which is kind of crazy you guys can see the first layer there like it laid down the best so far so yeah out of all the cubes this one here turned out the best looks like and what's good about you know printing all these little test cubes let me just bring them all up here so you guys can see how many they are is that we got to learn a little bit you know how it goes and how it flows and how the nozzle reacts with the bed so yeah it could be a little tricky to figure out how to get going but it looks like once you do and everything is adjusted well you should have very decent success here so i do want to print my own prints but there is you know a couple more files in here i might try them out since we have this pool here still some filament left so i'm going to go ahead and start something on there and we'll see if it's worth printing maybe since we do have it and you know they probably test prints made exactly for this printer which will be good to see move these out of the way also guys on this belt here you can see where the seam is and it's pretty flush i guess is the word there is a little bit of a bump in it and you know the belt is flexible so i'm not sure how well this would do with like a large sperm because on this side here we actually have a little bit of like a peel up like the belt is trying to go up and i don't know if it's maybe overstretched or just the nature of it so i'm guessing you know printing to the very edge might not be the best outcome but looks like you know about an inch or so from the edge or at least here on my build it looks a little more flat now it's possible that maybe we can raise these up a bit push the center up a little so the edges fold in so maybe that's an option there to do yeah i just wanted to mention that but overall this belt system is really unique all right so it looks like that print is starting that we initiated we might have to adjust it so i'm going to go to tune and then baby step on why yeah it's reset itself so we definitely need to go down so i'm going to go ahead and add the 0.5 because i know that works perfect so some reason it looks like the same print we just printed actually yeah it does look like exactly the same print we printed so it must be just a single print of one of these test cubes again so let's just cancel that and i'm going to go and print something else here get you guys a little closer so there it goes starting up we have a booger on there should grab it all right so yeah that looks like a good purge there all right so it looks like we're definitely a good amount from the bed especially on that first layer you want to be a little lower so maybe it's a good idea actually now that i'm doing it as to go down even more on the first layer just to make sure you know you get that good first layer sitting to the belt and then after that we can you know bring it up just a little bit where it's not too low because now that it has a nice wall to you know purge against or print against there shouldn't be any issues all right so i went ahead and brought it back to the 0.5 where i think it should be and it's printing away so and look at that now it's moving real quick so and that's one thing we haven't really talked about is that because this is a core xy you can technically you know do some pretty quick speed printing so once you've figured out all your parameters in all your settings you can really make this thing boogie along for sure so this looks like a pretty large print we'll see what it is kind of interesting and also guys i don't think we have listened to the printer yet so let me bring my microphone in [Music] so to be honest the printer is actually very quiet except for that i guess either power supply or the cooling fan underneath and the motherboard there so the movements are actually quite quiet and all the fans are on on the hot end so yeah it's not that it's mostly under here so all right so this print is done and it took eight hours and 48 minutes it says on the clock there so you can see that it's actually a benchy which is out of 45 degrees which is i guess one way to cheat the 45 degrees is print on a 45 degree angle yeah that's quite interesting but i haven't took it off the bed here stuck to the belt very well actually so this one i think i might have lowered a little more but let's see yeah it's coming off pretty easy though wow okay so there's no damage to the belt at all or anything weird so yeah i guess we're good and i don't know if you guys can see the bottom it's very smooth like very smooth so yeah the belt actually makes a really nice surface see here our edge is the hardest part to start but we had definitely a lot better success here but once it started it was you know pretty much perfect so on this face here we can kind of see like little bumps there and this is i guess the stitches so overall just on this filament here i mean the layers do sit pretty well and we have the benchy on top so i wonder if it comes off let's see now looks like it's well it almost looks like it does come off because there's like some gaps there but but i'm not sure if it's supposed to okay this well maybe not i did just rip it off anyways it's fine we can still look at it here so yeah i mean this is a large adventure you guys can see it's quite big and the walls do sit pretty well the layers but i do have to say you know there's like these little lumps here and there it's definitely not perfect and our retraction is not enough looks like according to this slicing here on this benchy other than that guys i mean it looks pretty good it's definitely not like you would expect but at the same time it's actually really good for what this printer is and how it prints so yeah so we get another successful print so i think for the next part we should go to the computer install the slicer and we'll slice some of our old prints and see how they'll print out all right so here we are by the computer and i got the sd card plugged in let's see what's on it okay so it looks like we have a user manual looks to be similar or exactly the same as what we got software and drivers and looks like guys we have the slicer for mac so that's good to see because that's what i need and we'll be installing this here in a second and also looks like we have some kind of profile for cura so i think i'm going to go ahead and install their reality belt slicer then try to figure out the cura so here we have some trouble shooting guide a lot of information here guys yeah it's nice to see that they got a lot of questions and answers there we got some models here a couple g-codes which we printed and then some stl files let's see what this is some kind of guide oh it's the fan okay so this is the parts going fan oh one end and check it out how it's made it's actually like a 90 degree very interesting and that's the other side so all right cool the last one here is we got a little video it looks like how to assemble it they do go through the leveling here which we kind of figured out so yeah this is a really good video that goes over all the basics here all right so let's go back to the software and we'll click on mac and let's see if we can install this thing so on the mac we gotta grab this and drag into applications and the installation has begun so we got this thing that appeared creality belt let's click on it see what happens okay so that's this here okay so i clicked on this little image here and i think it's opening it up and by the way guys i did forget to mention if you can't install it you have to go and allow access or verify that you want you know reality built to be installed but for me here it didn't even ask that so i guess we're good to go okay so we got a disclaimer that we have to agree to i guess let's just agree to it okay so here we have right off the bat the 3d print mill and we'll add that and here we have the slicer man that is long not even sure how long that is but it looks very long all right well let's do something simple here what we know how to do is throw in let's say a calibration cube and look at that now i'm not sure if it needs to be that far down the belt or not i guess it doesn't really matter technically we'll leave it right there and by the way if you've used the cure or something like that this looks very similar so if you click on the model you can see you can move it around the plate anywhere you want and then here you have on the side other things you can do so like scale it and move it around and mirror and whatnot elsa this looks very much like a cura slicer so if you're familiar with that it should not be very hard to use here but yeah here we have configuration which is 45 degrees 1.4 nozzle pla material yes so we can use recommended or custom so i'm not sure what's going on here but let's see what custom is okay so here we have something interesting the first thing here it says copies so you can make multiple copies so if you wanted to make 100 of these calibration cubes i guess you can and there's their distance between the copies print raft now adjust belt walls okay so i guess we're just going to leave this all the way it is it's very interesting so yeah this is the creality belt section let's see what we got here quality so we've got point two layer height just fine wall count three layers yes looks good so yeah everything looks like it's where it needs to be i'm gonna go through this and look real quick okay infill density zero that's not good make this at twenty percent i think i normally use grid or lines i can't remember i'll just go a grid material so here we have the printing temperature 200 it's probably fine and then build plate is 60 flow 100 retraction distance 8 millimeters sounds about right now i'm not sure why this retraction speed is so high seems like a little too fast honestly but we're going to leave it the way it is since it's the way it came so so print speed here of 40 millimeters which is a little slow i think we should speed that up to 50. and i think our infill should definitely be at 50 also and then here we have slower layers so i guess this is the very first layer so it slows down so i guess we'll keep that at four cooling looks good supports we don't need build adhesion nothing's available there or dual extruder mesh fixes i guess we'll leave it the way it is and look at that guys we actually have spiralized mode which is uh yeah kind of interesting i wonder if it even works on this printer i guess we're gonna have to try that out and see if we can print something in spiralized and then we gotta enable coasting so let's go ahead and hit the prepare button here and it should slice and it was pretty much immediately it says it's going to take 32 minutes which is about the usual so we can go ahead and save it straight to the removable drive let's just go ahead and do that well you couldn't do it it said error let's save it to the file then this is a very long name we'll just call it x y z all right save it and that was successful and we can see that file right here being saved so now we can just drag it to the sd card and if we open it up we can see it right there now we can go to the printer and print our calibration cube so i'm going to go ahead and also do a benchy let's see if we can clear this clear build plate pretty much the same settings we have on the calibration cube so it should be fine we'll see how it goes it's kind of uh interesting save this one and we're good to go so let's go see if we can print these out and we'll see how they turn out all right so i changed the filament to this silky black all right so we're starting up okay so it is purging i had a little light and hopefully you guys can see there that we are printing the calibration cube at 45 degrees angle but yeah guys as long as you figure out the distance between the bed and the nozzle it seems to work very well i did turn down the speed just a little bit too just to make sure you know it laid down nice and that seemed to work pretty good and i was just booging along and printing our calibration cube [Music] all right so our calibration cube and vinci are done you guys can see that i had to print the benchy with supports and we'll talk about that in a second but let's go ahead and look at the calibration key now i realize that this is not the usual calibration cube i print but i guess for this printer it doesn't really matter i think this is the dual color one where there's more inserts inside for like a multi-color one but in any case we can still see the walls really easily so let's start here with the x and because this is a core x y machine this is not going to be relevant to the x axis itself and also the 45 degrees so yeah surprisingly it still printed out this cube very reasonably well and you guys can kind of see the diagonal lines there which is the 45 degrees but yeah overall it looks really good and the layers are sitting a lot better than i thought they would with this type of printer and what's even more impressive is the bottom which lays down really well on that belt so so yeah i probably said this a million times but as long as you have the nozzle correctly offset it seems to stick and sit on the belt very nicely and our top looks pretty good too so yeah not too bad now for the benchy i did start printing in normal like sitting like this and i realized that wasn't gonna work and i guess it didn't really hit me until later because the nozzle is at 45 degrees if you tried to print them up and down like a normal like this what's gonna happen is it's gonna try to print the most outer part first so it's gonna start printing in the air so this really kind of like messes with your idea of how you think about models and it actually makes it pretty hard to figure out what models you can print and not print on this kind of printer and so printing something like this is definitely better to orientate it 45 degrees and then use supports in order to get decent results as you guys can see here we got pretty good results but they're definitely not perfect as you would expect and you guys can see how we had the support sitting there so yeah hopefully they pop off pretty easy here well they are popping off but it will take a little bit of time so let's just go ahead and look at it so we can see here the sides look pretty decent we do have like these lines and marks going through and you guys can see the end fill through there and i guess that just couldn't be concealed in those three layers so the writing on the back here is completely blobbed out so you can't see anything so detail is not great as far as micro detail we do have a slit in the box overhangs are very nice and decent but yeah overall i mean you know this is what you can expect from the cr30 here printing in this fashion and i would say it actually did pretty well there's a lot of things that are different about this printer and realizing that almost everything needs to be printed in 45 degrees to get good results made me realize that this printer is pretty limited to something that's more basic not a complicated shape or has a lot of detail in it you know and especially if it needs to be long this is where the strength of this printer is so for the next part let's jump back to the computer real quick and we'll slice something a lot longer all right so we're back at the computer and let's really quickly here try to slice something that's pretty long which i downloaded this sword here hopefully we can make it work you guys can see how large it is wow that's huge so yeah we're gonna have to fit it on this belt somehow and it does look like we're gonna have to scale it down so let's go ahead and rotate it and you guys can see we're definitely gonna have to scale it down here so let's try about 70 percent and the sword just flew away for some reason but in any case oh yeah it looks like it's still too big maybe 65 oh yeah that looks like that should fit 65 yeah that looks good so what i'm going to do with this sword and i think it's going to work out pretty good is i'm going to highlight it and then use the move function here and i'm just going to move it until it splits it completely in half if you guys can see that so just make sure you're looking at it straight from the side anyway so yeah we're just going to split it right in half right on the bed that looks like it's exactly half so the idea here is to print one half of it and then print another half and then glue them together because obviously you know you can't print all these things here flat on the bed without having supports and that's going to be a pretty huge mess so yeah i think that's going to work out pretty good so let's go ahead and slice that and down here we can see our dimensions 180 by 108 by 26 tall so 108 is going to be the length of it which is quite long actually and on the settings here i think we're going to pretty much keep everything as it was maybe bump up the speed to 60. let's just go ahead and slice it and you guys can see there it's going to take 10 hours and 42 minutes so about 11 hours it might be a little longer than that with all the retractions and everything but yeah this should work out pretty good and we should have a half of a sword and then we'll print it out twice i guess we can go up here and click on two copies here and it'll print two now i'm not sure if this here is a good amount the 300 millimeters and i don't know where it takes the point from the edge of the print or from the middle of the print so yeah i'm probably just going to print this as one and then i'll just restart and print another one but yeah i'm going to go ahead and print this out maybe a few other things and we'll check them out so so we ran out of filament while printing the astronaut and the printer did pause says here to change the filament pull the old one out and i don't have exact replacement but i do have this more shiny one that's silky blue i guess so we'll just use that to finish it up so it did cool off the nozzle it's preheating it should continue where it left off all right so it's actually out of purging now it's asking me to purge more continue will continue and it should start printing there it goes so yeah and that's how simple it is to change the filament and continue printing well guys shortly after changing the filament the whole model broke loose from the belt so yeah i guess that's not gonna work out unfortunately and yeah that's what happens whenever the bed cools off there's a chance that the model can pop off so even on this kind of belt looks like all right so let's take a look at the few prints that we printed so as you guys saw there the astronaut guy got early termination but we did do a spaceship in spiralized mode which is kind of cool and also a pretty long print here in the back we'll look at in a second so let's go ahead and start with a spaceship and you guys can see i printed it at 45 degrees angle and the reason we have to do that is because we wouldn't be able to print in spiralized mode which is one layer around without putting it on a 45 degree because this is the plane on the top here so so yeah if one thing you take away from this whole video is that a lot of things you do have to print in 45 degrees especially more complicated shapes so and you guys can see we had to have supports i don't know how easy these are going to come off but yeah because this is a spiralized mode it's just one layer it's literally breaking it apart so the bottom comes off pretty easy in any case guys let's go ahead and look at the side walls here so we can see the layers actually you know went down pretty good and the reason we have more dots on this side is because this is where the next layer transition is but like on this side we can't see none of those dots so basically the seam is scattered all around randomly but yeah i mean overall it looks really good as far as the layer bonding it's pretty uniform honestly it looks much better than usual especially for the small size and as we go up here we're going to really see how well this printer did everything looks super nice and smooth and the most amazing part is nothing melted here so this is a pretty small spaceship normally this would melt easily but it did not so that tells me this printer has excellent cooling and yeah so you are able to print in spiralized mode but you know you do have to deal with this so it's not ideal for sure so i would definitely not recommend printing in spiralized mode with this printer so i do like to print astronaut with the spaceship but this astronaut here was not finished as you guys saw there but that's okay we could still see pretty well how everything went down and you guys can see there's little x patterns in here which for some reason the infill is showing through i'm not sure why that's the case because we do have three layers on the outside so it's pretty thick but we still have the infill coming through that might have something to do with the settings where it's overlapping too far so again we had to use supports and they're not coming off too easy so that probably needs to be adjusted somewhat yeah i mean that's how this astronaut came out not too bad i guess and again because of the way this thing is it's not really ideal to print any normal prints but what it is ideal for is something like this print here a sword i don't know if i can fit it in the frame but it is quite long as you guys saw there and so yeah what we did was we printed two halves so two pieces each on one side and then i just glued them together hopefully you guys can see that and yeah it turned out really good i mean it's not perfect but you know for something this long that's kind of you know somewhat useful i guess it's pretty awesome that we're able to print this in one piece now to make the argument that you know you couldn't print smaller pieces of the sword even maybe standing up like this on a normal printer and still gluing together and get the same results that's true you could obviously but you know like this you have a much more solid piece because instead of gluing it in sections you technically could have one solid piece depending on what you're printing but like in this swords instant we have two of the same halves on each side glued together which makes it a lot stronger and a lot more usable i guess but i wouldn't say that's you know a strong argument there so and because it prints you know like this our weakest point is when we bend it this way it could snap easier because all our layers are like this they're not long ways so so to kind of understand why this printer exists i think we have to acknowledge the fact that there might be a few people out there that could have a use for something like this that need multiple parts that are simple that can be printed at a 45 degree angle and they need a lot of them continuously which this belt will provide but to be honest for a hobbyist that you know needs one good printer this is definitely not your printer here so this is something for someone that's really into printers and has all the printers out there but want something very unique this one definitely provides that and a unique experience but as far as being practical and simplistic i would definitely not recommend this for that or for your only printer so yeah guys overall i think this is a very unique printer that has a lot of unique features about it the 45 degrees the core xy movements the whole belt driven build plate it does have a dual gear extruder which is very nice filament detector silent steppers the overall build quality of this thing is super solid everything is high quality and made out of metal i do like that it accepts the full-size sd cards if one thing that kind of hinders this whole printer from feeling up to date is going to be the screen here and the ui i don't mind it as much but using the newer touch screens and just the ease of navigating makes me realize that this is kind of outdated so yeah i was very happy to get my hands on this printer and do this unboxing and a little overview for you guys so hopefully you enjoyed it and if you did then hit that like button if you want to pick up this printer for yourself i'll have some links in the description check it out and also guys check out my 3d printing playlist i have quite a few printers i've done videos on i'm sure you find something interesting there and if you did get to the end of the video i just want to say thank you for watching and supporting this channel so as always guys thanks for watching this video and i'll see you on the next one peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 76,647

Keywords: 3d printing, creality cr-30, 3d printer, 3d print mill, 3d print mill creality, belt 3d printer, 3d printer review, creality cr30, creality belt printer, 3d print, belt printer, creality cr 30, 3dprintmill 3d printer, how to, creality cr-30 review, creality 3d print mill, naomi wu, white knight, naomi wu 3d printer, 3d printing time lapse, 3d printing ideas, 3d printing software, creality cr-30 printmill, creality cr-30 3d printer, creality cr-30 time lapse

Id: CFqh69YRdZk

Length: 57min 13sec (3433 seconds)

Published: Fri Sep 10 2021