Creality Ender-3 Max Neo - 3D Printer - Unbox & Setup

hey guys in this video we have the creality ender 3 max neo so the android 3 name continues to evolve and the max stands for larger volume with neo being the latest iteration so i am pretty excited to see what this printer is all about so in this video we're going to unbox it set it up and do some prints hopefully you guys enjoy it let's get started [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] all right so reality continues to impress us with new printers and it just seems like we got the s1 version here recently but now we have the neo versions now i think this is more going to be on the side of budget conscious people so think of it more as the version to upgrade so this is the box that the max comes in we got a picture here what the printer looks like the dimensions of the box in centimeters and i'm not too sure about the weight but it feels about 25 pounds or so so let's go ahead and open it up so this is a pretty large size box and as you guys can see everything is packed very well so this is what we see on top we got the manual actually after sales card and the user manual which is very nicely laid out a breakdown of what every part is on the printer the parameters contents included and then our assembly instructions starting with one so yeah creality usually does a great job with these manuals and no exception here for the max neo so everything is packed in this soft black phone so we do get a spool of filament looks like in white pla and i do like that it's a spool and it is 200 grams we got part of the spool holder and it's the pivoting kind which is nice and what's great about this it just clips on and the other part here where the spool rides on literally installs just like that by just twisting it on i really do like these pull holders because they move out of the way when you want to kind of tuck the printer away for storage so in this pocket here we have the screen this is not a touch screen this is why we have this rotary knob here that is what controls the ui and also there's a bracket on the back that unclips pretty easily yeah very nice build and this is where you're gonna plug it in here we have a box and there's a few things in here mostly this bag with allen wrenches bolts zip ties snippers clean out needle sd card adapter with the sd card in it bolts for the installation and things like that we also get a power cable this is a us tape and a spatula that is somewhat sharpened all right so that looks like everything on the top layer and you guys probably can't see this great but yeah we have the gantry which is the upper portion all nestled up with the base underneath that so let's go ahead and pull it up so it does appear to be tethered to the base with these wires so they do have to come out together but yeah this is the base and i really like these red accents everywhere that looks really cool and i think this is part of the uh whole neo series very nice little touches and right off the bat everything looks quite familiar and somewhat refreshed and we're going to take a closer look at all the details here shortly i'm going to go ahead and move this out of the way and you guys can see everything was packed very well lots of good foam and protection and creali has always done a great job with that all right so i got the base upside down on the table and the reason it's like that because i want to see what is beneath these covers and you guys can see the underneath is very clean and nicely constructed this is the drawer here the main board looks like and then our power supply is over here with some venting so let's go ahead and see what we got here so there's a clean out needle taped to the box of the snippers we get a pack of long bolts and this is going to be connecting the gantry to the base some zip ties some spare parts it looks like a nozzle and some clips for the ptf tube couplers here we get a usb adapter with the micro sd card in it we also get a little baggie of tools and that includes a set of allen wrenches a couple ended open wrenches this one's for the nozzle this one here is for adjusting rollers and also to tighten certain nuts also we do get a little mini flat screwdriver so i'm gonna go ahead and pull all these little bolts out and we'll see what's underneath let's go ahead and open this one up all metal here pretty good thickness and we'll go ahead and pull this one off which does have a fan attached to it so i'll just have to set it here to the side all right guys so let's take a closer look here at the main board so this is a creality version 4.2.2 you guys can see our stepper drivers there and they are integrated but they are heat synced and also they are the 2208 tmc drivers so there's quite a few wires going out of the board and we can see there's like a little cutout in the channel where they travel through and they are protected which is nice to see the power supply is creality branded 24 volt 14.6 amp which is 350 watts all the connections are nice and crimped and nicely routed everywhere so yeah everything looks clean and what's expected out of creality so i'm going to put these covers back and we'll start the assembly so putting the print together is actually quite simple we go to the manual we can see that step one shows us that we're gonna put the gantry on top of the base and then there's two bolts on each side they're gonna mount it so these are the bolts and we can see they're quite long so if we look at the base we can see a cutout here on the side and this is where the gantry side is going to actually slide down into same thing on the other side now one thing you need to look at if your wires or cables are all nice and happy now might look like they're somewhat tangled or twisted up so i think i need to flip this thing around a couple times to kind of get rid of these angles there we go that looks like it's pretty happy and straight and then we're just going to slide down into those grooves on both sides of the printer so mine's not easily going down because distance between here is too short or at least initially so i'm going to go ahead and raise this whole x-axis up there is a belt on top that i'm turning to bring it up or you can just turn the coupler here also to bring it up and down all right so now that i got it squeezed over it seemed to go down to where it needs to go and it's kind of holding itself and actually does look like that i need to go down even more so i'm going to go ahead and just tap it down okay yeah so you do want it to sit right down at the table looks like or the flat surface okay so that is the correct way as the bolts are going in easily and if we go to the other side hopefully you guys can see pretty much the same thing here and we're gonna grab the large wrench and run these bolts all the way down so i'm not going to tighten them up all the way just in case we'll go ahead and run the other side down and yeah guys because this printer pretty much is pre-built and all we got to do is just connect a few things this makes it really friendly for anyone that is getting started which wasn't always the case for creality especially back in the day it was more like a kit that you have to assemble all right so i'm gonna go ahead and snug this side up really good so you don't have to go crazy as this type of connection is quite strong and because it's grooved in it's very stable which by the way i love this design and just more rigid for the whole z-axis going up back to the other side snug these up and we are done with step one so for step two we're going to be installing the screen the mount does clip off and if we look at it we can see we got some t-nuts with bolts and these are actually going to line up right here into the channel in the front so the first thing we need to do is cut the t-nuts loose so these can move around and all we're going to do is just line them up into these two grooves and so these two will go on the bottom and this one will go on top and just like this but yeah once it falls in all we got to really do is unscrew the bolt and then screw it back in where the t-nut will turn in the channel and then lock in so if it doesn't work out the first time just keep trying it just unscrew it and then screw it back in and the t-nut will turner didn't lock in so once you do all three your bracket should be nice and tight in there so we can grab our wire that comes out from the bottom and we can connect it to our display just like that and then this should just clip right in going down and that's it we're pretty much done with the display and you can adjust it to go back or front however you like it i think mine here looks pretty good and so for step three we're going to install our spool holder which is quite simple just clips on the side and for step four it's asking us to look at the voltage setting on the back of the printer and that's pretty much all the steps in the manual so not too much more information about the assembly but we're gonna go a little bit more in depth because there's quite a few important things that we need to adjust and check so let's go ahead and put on our spool holder which by the way clips on right in the back here and before we do that we can go ahead and connect this z motor and there's a plug here that's right next to it and it says z and actually guys on the other side we have the same thing so yeah that's pretty much the extent of plugging things in including the screen but as far as the spool holder basically if we clip it on and it simply just sits on the rail and clips down and you can move it farther closer away and we do have a nice little rubber foot there and so your spool will go on here and then it'll feed up to the filament detector now if you want you can flip this around to the other side which might make more sense because we have wires here up front and kind of move this thing more closer to the motor here right underneath the motor because it does go all the way under there and i think i do prefer it this way better then when you tuck it away it really tucks away nicely as the spool just kind of folds right behind the bed i think i prefer this way but we'll see how that turns out as we print now in the manual it did want us to go straight here to the back and check our voltage which hopefully you guys can see there's a little switch right there and ours is set to 230 which we need to change it to 115. move the tab over to the other side and now we can see 115 under there so yeah make sure you don't forget to do that before you power on the printer and as you guys can see it's not very hard to put this thing together adjust a few bolts through the side a couple plugs to plug in the screen and it's good to go so yeah very great for beginners but we do need to check a few things that are quite important which are going to be the rollers on the bed and also the belts on the x and y and the hot end itself has rollers also so let's start with the bed and we'll probably have to go to the side here but yeah you can see there's some rollers under there and there are three of them so there's three stationary and then three adjustable on the other side so adjustable ones do have the centric nuts and i'm gonna go ahead and move the screen out of the way so we can reach them better but what we're gonna do is we're gonna just stick our hand under there kind of roll them around and see how tight they are and right away i can tell that the middle one here is completely loose the one in the back is too tight one in the front is way too tight so you're gonna grab this wrench that was included and what we're gonna do is we're gonna turn the eccentric nut to loosen the roller so you want both sides of the rollers to kind of just barely squeeze around and you should be able to turn them in one spot kind of like a little burnout with some friction and so this one actually feels good so the bottom line is you want to try to get as loose as possible but not wobble on the bed so it will take a little bit back and forth until you can get that right and actually guys i noticed that the middle roller actually adjust on the other side and see if we can adjust the center roller so when they do have three rollers like this it's a little more tricky you know keep checking and adjusting and eventually you'll get it and i think mine is pretty good right there and if you move it back and forth you should have a really smooth and even roll if you have any kind of jumping or feels funny you know keep checking your rollers and adjusting them and as long as you're not too tight you should be good and also if you're too loose you'll know by your bed moving around so we also need to check our rollers on the x-axis which is this hot end here and mine are way too tight and when i move it i can hear a lot of jerkiness and really hard tension so the adjustable eccentric nut is on the bottom so i'm gonna go ahead and loosen it until these rollers feel pretty good okay so i'm a little too loose now and looks like maybe right there that's pretty good and sure enough that feels much better now i can still feel a little bit of bumpiness and that's because these things were tightened so hard and they've kind of indented a little flat spot on the wheels so over time as it runs around it will kind of go away but i'm going to loosen mine just a little more to see if i can get rid of that completely okay yeah that feels much better so i'm very loose right now but i'm not wobbling and this is where you want to be for that perfect roll where it's really smooth now another place we can adjust is on the sides here we got a couple rollers on the outside and then an adjustable one on the inside same thing for this side now these are not as critical unless they're really tight and you can't move them you want to adjust them so on mine this side is pretty good and this other side is decent too but i think it needs to be loosened a bit all right yeah that does feel a little better and this side is still good too so yeah just remember that you don't have to get the side perfect as we do have dual z axes and we're tethered and the whole z just moves very slow and not very much so yeah get him as close as you can but don't worry about it too much but yeah other than that that's all our wheels so let's flip around to the front so you do want to check your belts also and we've got a tensioner here up front for the y and you don't want this to be too tight but also not too loose because this bed is pretty big and it's glass so a little tighter than looser for the y-axis and you also have a little hole here through the top where you can see how your pulley is lining up and for the x we have a tensioner here which also can be loosened and tightened and for the x i definitely like to keep mine pretty loose and you want to be really careful because with these knobs you can't really feel how much tension you're putting on there and these belts don't really like being over tightened so just very slight tightness where there's no slop and you should have very smooth movement back and forth but yeah that's pretty much all the things that needs to be adjusted and as you guys see there it's not too hard to get this thing going and get started out of the box so i am pretty excited to power this thing on but before we do that let's go ahead and take a closer look at all the features and details of the max neo all right so yeah this inner three max is quite a decent sized printer so you will need some room for it not only for the base but it is quite tall also and a lot of that has to do with the print volume which is 300 by 300 and 320 tall also looking at the front you guys can see how much this y channel sticks out past the printer which is quite interesting so on the top we don't have much going on i do like how clean it is and we don't have you know a spool holder up here sticking up that's really nice we do have just normal aluminum channels 20 40s and 20 20. flipping around to the back you guys can see we've got dual z axes lead screws but more importantly there's a belt between them which tethers them together and so if one turns the other one turns together with it and this is a great design and the brackets that hold everything together are plastic but we do have bearings inside and it all seems to be pretty well built so the dual lead screws go all the way down to the motors the frames here are completely metal which is very nice we got the brass bushings on both sides and on this side we have quite a few more things here to look at so there is a filament detector it is plastic there is an arrow here that's showing the direction it's like an led and what's great is it does have brass inserts to keep it from getting eaten up but our filament will come in here and then out into the all metal extruder really much nicer than the plastic ones the extruder motor underneath all the connectors are hot glued everywhere and this is our x-axis motor which runs the x-axis belt for the movement going down from there we can see our stepper motors on the z-axis and our spool holder that's actually underneath and you guys saw how i slid it underneath there earlier now again you can have it either you know like this which actually now that i look at it doesn't even line up correctly so yeah i think we're gonna slide it to the back and remove this and put it on the other side and maybe these wires can be tucked around like this that would make maybe more sense but now we could have a lot more straight feed to the filament detector so looking at the very back we can see here out of the bed we got the cable and it is strained relief and instead of running to the back it actually runs to the side around so i'm thinking maybe it is possible to tuck all these wires underneath here so here we have the y-axis motor and this runs the bed it's our belt here can't see anything with this cap enclosure not even a cutout which i wish they would have made but not a big deal and over here we can see the y axis and stop switch so looking at the very back we got a pretty good low profile and this is our power supply all the ends of the channels are capped with these little plastic covers very nice touch and if you guys remember this is where we switched our voltage from the 230 to 115 so make sure you don't forget to do that before you power on the printer flipping back to the front as we go down we can see these pretty cool red accents and this is the cover for the x axis motor and there's a switch here on the side and this is the x and stop switch we got a qr code here for most likely the instruction manual so from the metal extruder our filament will flow out into the hot end and this is what the assembly looks like it's one cover that is plastic but it's got this really nice little accent here in red on the front now there is a cr touch that's pre-installed which is great to see and overall all the wires are nicely routed and just looks great so i went ahead and took out one little bolt behind the cover and it all just comes off we do have the heat break fan right on the cover yeah you guys can see the new style heat break that reality is using which looks quite unique we do have an axial fan for the parts cooling with the injection plastic duct that blows right underneath the nozzle we also get silicone sock over the heat block and yeah everything looks really nicely built and designed going from the hot end this way we can see this is where our belt tensions and again we got the red accents got the tensioner here so yeah it looks really nice quite a tasteful little color of red and going down to the bed guys this is probably you know the main attraction here as we got a very large see my hand here 300 by 300 glass build plate that's perforated let's go ahead looks like these just fold out so this is not meant to be constantly removed but there's a couple tabs here that open up and what you do is you just pick it up from the front and then slide it out you guys can see it's a one large big glass plate and underneath we have a pretty large aluminum heated slab so we need to go ahead and peel off this top coating so yeah we got a nice ender logo there and the bed is perforated so that the coating let's go ahead and slide it back in it's just going to go in those clips and then we're going to lock it in but yeah this is kind of like a ultra base style material with little dimples and whenever the bed heats up the filament should stick very well and then when it cools off the models should just pop off so yeah we'll see how well this one works here so going underneath you can see that we do have insulation as that's great to see yes we have a really large glass so it should help quite a bit with heating up quickly the frame itself is reasonably thick and on each corner we have these large adjustable knobs and high quality yellow springs let's go and push this out of the way you guys can see our y axis rail which sticks out quite far past the printer adjuster here for the y belt and it's also in this really cool red color so over here we got some stickers qr codes reality original filament plans i don't know what that is all about and the manufacturing sticker we can see the name of the printer power rating of 350 watts the build size 300 300 by 320 and the weight of 10.5 kilograms which is about 20 to 23 pounds so right below that we got the micro sd card slot and also a micro usb connection there so going around this way here we have a little storage bin actually it looks pretty cool we've got these little ridges here and the bin does come out completely and there's actually a little bit of extra storage here right underneath so yeah very nice size and i'm glad they included a little bin and you can put all your extra little parts in there and tools from this printer which keeps it organized and going to the right side we have our display controller so this thing is a pretty nice size go ahead and peel this protector overall i do like it but i wish the bezels were a little smaller here around but the knob feels nice and premium it's all looking at the side of the screen you guys see where it plugs in and mounts and going this way we can see this is our power input port it is fused and our on and off switch and going to the left side of the printer not too much to see here just the spool holder and the wires that come out the side and we are sitting on four large squashy rubber feet that should help with noise and vibrations so overall a great design and what pretty much we're used to from the older ender 3s just you know slightly upgraded here and there and the backs having a large volume makes this printer definitely quite more useful and also love the little touches that they added to this neo series so for the next part let's go ahead and power it on hold the printer make sure everything works preheat it and we'll go ahead and level the bed alright so i got the printer plugged in here on the side let's go ahead and hit the power switch okay so it took a second there to power up but it booted up really quick and this screen is looking really nice so let's use this rotary knob here to choose prepare and we'll go ahead and preheat pla to make sure our nozzle and bed are working and also go to move well i guess it's going to home itself so i wanted the helmet but it's homing just by clicking move so okay so it looks like the x and the y works and now the z is coming down and that bl touch there or cr touch usa should be our z axis switch and there goes all right so yeah it looks like everything is working and if we look at the screen we can see that our nozzle is preheating and our bed is also preheating 41 now so let's go ahead and level our bed you're going to need some kind of sheet of paper i'm just going to use a little posty note so the way this is going to work is we're going to manually level the bed first to kind of roughly get it pretty flat then we're going to use the automatic bed leveling and the reason you want to manually level it still is because the less it has to compensate as it travels the better it is so meaning like if your bed is way off you know as it travels it has to really start coming down over here and then back up over there so a lot of up and down movement if you don't have the bed flat so where we want to go is to move and then we're going to move the z axis you guys can see it's 10 millimeters down to zero and it's kind of weird that you have to do this but that's basically where the nozzle is at the bottom so so what we need to do is disable the steppers okay so it isn't prepared and you guys can see they're disable steppers so once we do that you're going to cut the whole mechanism loose so now what we need to do carefully without pushing down the nozzle too much is go to every corner by pushing it around and your bed and nozzle should be preheated and now we can start to manually level the bed and we're just going to go corner to corner manually pushing this thing around so i had to loosen that one quite a bit this one is was kind of already tight now we'll push the bed to go to that corner and now to this one so yeah you just want to go around corner to corner at least three times or so because once you change one corner all the other ones kind of change so that's why you need to go a few times it's kind of unfortunate that creality didn't build in a corner to corner traveling software because that would sure make it a lot easier moving around so all right so i think i am getting closer here as we're just micro adjusting at this point all right so we can go ahead and go to the level button here or this dedicated leveling and what that's going to do is going to go through the whole bed and probe it and then save the offsets in memory so as it's printing it can compensate all right so it looks like it takes five points across and it's probably going to be five points down so looks like we're going to have 25 offset parameters that it can go off which is really nice to see usually it's 16 or so but because it's a larger bed it makes sense alright so it looks like it's finished and it goes back to the main menu and you guys can see that actually out of dim so after a little bit of not touching the knob it dims the display which is pretty cool i guess it helps the life of the screen so yeah the last thing we need to do is go to prepare and set the z-axis offset but actually before we do that we have to move it back down to zero again okay so it is at zero right now so let's hit the offset and we'll see how much we need to go down looks like quite a bit on mine here so i got minus 2.15 looks like it's pretty good for me so you want it to slightly drag but because i'm using a really thin sheet i basically have almost no drags simple as that after you set it you're pretty much done with the out of bed leveling so let's go ahead and install some filament and i got some red that actually matches the theme of the printer we'll start with that so yeah we're gonna go on the spool holder here make sure you cut your filament on an angle so you can go through the detector which by the way there's a little light there that glows blue it's gonna go into the extruder and we're going to push on the extruder arm and then kind of feed it manually all the way through and you can maybe see it go through the ptfe tubing and then it's going to come out the other end for the hot end disable the steppers it looks like there was a little bit of yellow in there so let's go ahead and grab our micro sd card and it is an eight gig it plugs here out front looks like upside down i'm gonna put the adapter in the drawer and if we go to print you can see we got a couple the g-codes that are samples that are included on the sd card so we can print either rabbit or both now before we print let's go ahead and go over this ui on top we can see it says made so this is the main page we got the logo we got a print prepare control and level so the print reads the sd card the preparer is all of your controls like move disable steppers out of home z axes offset preheat pla abs pull down and then language selection let's go back control is going to be our temperature controls motion controls store configuration rig configuration and reset configuration and then also we got info about the printer so i'm not going to go through all of this but i'm just going to give you an overview real quick here and then we got our leveling option and down here we have the nozzle temperature and the target also the bed temperature in the target underneath the flow rate which is at 100 and the extruder at 100 the fan speed and the z-axis offset as we know we have minus 2.15 right now and down here we have x y and z coordinates so since it's not in process they're all just kind of blinking but yeah it's pretty simple and intuitive ui and if you ever use the creality here recently this is pretty much the same thing all right so let's go ahead and do i guess the rabbit since it's first we'll do a red rabbit and it starts to print and we'll go through this menu as we're printing here in a second all right there it goes grab that blob there now let's see if our offset is good and yeah right off the bat looks like it's pretty much perfect what i could tell all right well nice very happy about that as you guys can see the offset was just great and this is one of the things i love about reality printers is that it just works seems like so far my experience has been great with pretty much every machine so let's go back to the display here and check out the options as we're printing so we got the g code name up there rabbit we got a progress bar which is at zero percent right now printing time that has passed since we started remaining is still at nothing because it's either calculating or maybe just doesn't know and then over here we have three options we got tune pause and stop so stop is going to completely cancel the print pause is just going to pause it and then if we click on tune we can adjust our print speed our nozzle temperature our bed temperature and our fan speed it's at zero right now but i'm sure it'll kick in after a few layers and also quite important we can do z-axis offset as it's printing so if you need to go a little up or down you can do that right on the fly you can fine tune it real quick yeah pretty good intuitive options and down here we have all of the main things that we need to see always on the bottom which is great that they did it that way all right so yeah everything looks good with the print and pretty cool how we just got it right off the bat printing perfectly down on the bed so as it's printing here i have to say that the printer does have quite a bit of sound noise but the stampers are pretty much silent or the motor so yeah you can't hear no motor sound but i'm gonna bring my microphone in if you guys can hear it so not terrible but i rather hear fan sound because it's just kind of like a hum then you know stepper motors making motion sounds back and forth which gets quite annoying especially if you're using it late at night or in a place where you're doing other things and also i just heard the parts cooling fan just kicked in and it got even louder yeah there's quite a lot of fans out so we're gonna go ahead and print this thing out and see what comes out and maybe i'll print the other file also and we'll see what they look like all right so we printed out the bunny and looks like the boat was a benchy so let's go ahead and take a look at the bunny first so right off the bat the first thing i'm noticing is how smooth the layers went down usually creality does a great job and that's no exception here for the max neo so yeah looks like that's our z seam there we do have a little bit of artifacts there or ghosting maybe you can kind of see it there on the body the bottom looks excellent and on the front here you guys can see on the reflections how well the layers are sitting so we did have a little bit of blobbing between the ears but not bad at all pretty easy to clean up there and overall guys very impressed with our first print so the bench is still stuck on the bed and it is completely cooled off let's see how easy it pops off and look at that pretty easy that's what's great about these kind of beds is when they're hot it really sticks well and then when it cools off and even though you do have to wait till it cools off that's the downside now you can pull the plate off and cool it faster by laying it on something cool like a table but that's not super convenient yeah when it does cool off it seems to pop off really good all right so here we have the benchy so let's start from the bottom here it'll be a little hard to see on red but we can still see the reflections so yeah you guys can see how nice the bottoms are and the bed leaves a nice little imprint so let's look at the walls very clean overall and uniform we got a little bit of artifacts and also some ghosting there you kind of see the ghosting not terrible but it is there you guys can kind of see the vibrations there so that's actually the y-axis and the bed is quite heavy and large and it's glass i mean we can play around with the belts maybe a little bit and loosen them or tighten them but yeah we're gonna have a little bit of vibrations there because of the weight far as cooling looks good on the overhangs there and yeah just looks like a really good print so yeah very happy with our first two prints and creality provided great start samples here but what we need to do is slice our own prints to really see how well this printer prints all right so here we are at the computer and i got the sd card plugged in so let's go ahead and open it up so we got three files in there it looks like a couple g codes which we printed the boat and the rabbit and also we have rar file i guess this needs to be extracted but i am on mac and it appears that maybe it's not pulling it up it's not even working for me but in any case this probably will work on windows and includes digital form of the manual and maybe the slicer things like that so let's go ahead and open up cura and this is the slicing software that i use so creality has their own or you can use whatever slicer you want so right now we're on ender 3 pro let's go ahead and create a new profile just for this printer and by the way we are using the latest version of qra which is 5.0 and yeah it's supposed to be quite a bit better so let's go ahead and try that out with this new printer and everything looks a little different than i'm used to but i'm sure we'll figure it out so when you first download it it'll probably take you to this add printer menu and what we're going to do is click on non-network printers and then we're going to go find creality and here we can see all of the printers that are available so let's go ahead and go with the ender 3 max so i'm just going to rename it here to just enter 3 max and i'll put neo in there we'll click add and here we can see the parameters so the only thing we need to change here is the z height of 320 instead of 340 and everything else should be good i'm gonna click on next and here we can see the build volume of our printer so let's go ahead and drag something in there we'll do a benchy zoom in a bit here so if we click on it we can just drag it around when selected also you got these little arrows to move it around on the axis or here on the side you guys can see we got hot buttons of move and you can put in the parameters here and then scale you can scale the model or you can just grab one of these points and pull them around and scale it like that and you can also rotate here so yeah these are pretty much the basic options and you got more advanced ones here so we're not going to be going in too much detail we'll just quickly go over how to slice so more importantly over here on the top click on this profile standard quality and here we can adjust all of the parameters so let's go ahead and go over real quick of how i set mine up so if you click these three little arrows here you can choose between custom basic advanced expert so normally advanced is what i use and you can get quite detailed if you go to expert which there is one thing we need to change in expert and we'll get back to that in a second but we're gonna use advanced and starting here with the quality layer height we'll leave that at point two and everything looks good here under walls we wanna change the wall count to three under top bottom we wanna change the top layers to five and fill at 20 is good under material this is where we can set our printing temperatures and i'm going to leave everything the way it is here print speed of 50 is what i usually print out the only thing i like to change is the initial layer speed to 15 go a little slower on the first layer and also the skirt and brim to 25 to speed it up everything else we're going to leave the way it is so here we have retractions and i'm not going to touch this because this is about usually what works sometimes you have to go a little up here maybe seven to seven and a half and sometimes you can go lower depending on the temperatures materials things like that so you can play around with that cooling is good here we have the support button so if you're gonna you know mess with supports you can do it here and then we have build adhesion so we're on skirt is where i like it so this is going to print a few lines around the print and then print the print itself you also have brim and this is going to actually touch the print bigger area to grab to so if you're having a problem sticking to the bed you can try using brim and then you got raft which will build a whole raft underneath the model and i normally do not like using this as it wastes time and material so skirt is the best way for most prints as it will print straight to the build plate so the only other thing that we will try out also is spiralize mode and that just prints a few layers on the bottom and then one layer all around in the continuous motion so we'll see how that works out with this printer but yeah other than that guys that's pretty much everything here and obviously you can adjust this to you know your liking and whatnot else now if we click here on these dots and go to expert and under travel which is where our retractions are there is an option here called retract before outer wall so i like to turn this off the reason i like to turn it off because when it retracts too much on smaller areas like around the benchy here where it has to retract a lot around all these windows and openings it tends to not do very well i have under extrusion so yeah this helps with that if you're having a lot of under extrusions where there's a lot of retractions try unclicking this retract before outer wall at least what i noticed on my prints here but yeah i'm just going to set this back to advanced so we don't get mixed up with anything yeah that's pretty much it for the profile pretty simple nothing too complicated after that we're going to click the slice button and it's going to slice and it says it's going to take 1 hour and 59 minutes which actually is pretty reasonably quick so we can go ahead and click save to removable since our sd card is in the computer and it sees it and that's going to save and you can eject it from here but i'm not going to do that i'm going to right click and clear build plate and we'll also throw a calibration cube in here push it back just a little bit and we'll slice it the same way and that's going to only take 36 minutes and we'll go ahead and save that and now we can eject the file and take our sd card to the printer and print these models out so yeah guys as you can see not too hard to use and hopefully this little quick overview here was helpful all right so our benchy and calibration cube are printed out and i do have to say they did turn out pretty good let's go ahead and look at calibration cube first overall looks great very minimum kind of vibrations or layering we do have a very slight ghosting on the x but minor i'm trying to get you guys a couple of different lightings here the y so we had a little bit more vibration and quite a bit of ghosting and that's understandable for this huge bed so even though it's there it's not too bad we got the x wall and the y wall so overall really nice even print the bottom and the top yeah very solid and quite respectable for reality here so the benchy's still stuck on the build plate and i have to say this material here has been working very well it's sticking while it's hot and popping off quite easy when it's cooled off so let's go ahead and see how easy this benji comes off perfect every time now it does have to get pretty much cold you do have to be a little patient and let it cool off all right so for the benchy well let's look at the bottom here first so yeah it looks beautiful walls very nice look how even that is reality printers do not disappoint in this area they're very accurate and the layers go down very even now we do have some vibration and ghosting but seems a little less than our other print well it is there right there yeah so it's still kind of there but yeah overall very very nice the way the layers sit we did have a little bit of stringing overhangs look good around the arches the walls look pretty decent except for a few places here and it's actually where it's kind of stringy and it makes sense it has to retract a lot in this area because it prints a little and then retracts and has to move over and this is why that area there is not perfect the box in the back looks great and the chimney here also looks pretty much perfect so yeah i'd have to say definitely above average as far as print quality goes and pretty much average for creality prayers so for the next part i'm going to print out more models i'm also going to try to print something large and we'll see how well all our leveling works and the compensations and i'll also try to do some spiralize mode and we'll see if this printer is capable of that alright guys so yeah these are all the prints that we printed and i have to say the printer actually performs very nicely and i kind of expected that from creality as you know these are all pretty familiar designs and parts from earlier printers overall it's executed very well and you get pretty much everything you would want in a 3d printer so we've seen the rabbit and the benchy that came with the printer also the black benchy calibration cube so let's go ahead and go to this frog which by the way turned out really nice and this is a silky gold i guess kind of color so it is quite reflective so the bottoms stick really nice there's no issues there overhang is good so the thing about this print it's pretty detailed around these little paws here and yeah as an usual creality fashion we have really nice accurate beautiful print there was a tiny bit of stringing between the eyes but nothing huge and by the way all of the prints were printed 0.2 layer height 200 on the nozzle 60 on the bed at 50 millimeters a second so the next print we got here is a squirtle and i guess this is kind of like a turtle mixed with the squirrel it's kind of like a polygon so there's a lot of flat surfaces and here you can kind of see how the printer does there is a little bit of ringing not bad at all and yeah overall the layers are sitting very nicely great around the face here the eyes and looks pretty awesome overall so this here is actually a gear is what it's called and it is a functional print now it is frozen up right now and there's a little bit of stringing inside and how well you guys can see so this test the tolerances and the accuracy so i can't turn it by hand i'm gonna grab this allen wrench and we're gonna stick it in there see how easy it goes in first so yeah perfect fit let's see how easy this thing will go and yeah that went perfectly with not much force and because there is a little bit of stringing and it's probably mostly because of this filament we can kind of break it up here by just turning it and when i spin it there's no bumping or grabbing or like an oval kind of feeling or it's getting tighter looser tighter or looser so this is a good sign of good accuracy and everything is round and all the gears around or symmetrical so now that we've spun it a few times we can easily spin it by hand as you guys can see so yeah did an excellent job here with the gear so quite obvious here we have large octopus this thing turned out pretty awesome so as you guys can see there's a lot of tentacles and they're all in these little pieces and they kind of all combine and then they're you know functional somewhat so what's great about this print is we've tested a few things as how well is the level on the bed because this print stretches from end to end when it printed all the way on one side it had the perfect gap between the nozzle and the bed on the other side and also including in all the other places so yeah the leveling system works perfect and just proves how well a glass bed with out of bed leveling with the sierra touch works together and also another thing to mention is that the print stuck to the bed very well but then when it cooled off i was able to just pop it off with my hands i didn't have to do anything special now it does leave a small marks on the bed and it looks like almost like residue of some sort but it doesn't seem to be affecting the sticking or the print at all and it's not too close to the bed it's just for some reason whatever coatings on here after the hot filament goes on it it leaves like a slight mark on it but yeah if we look at this guy here up close everything is even and clean not much stringing or blobbing at all which was impressive and that's gonna you know depend a lot on your filament also really nice even layering here yeah we do still have a support here we can break off all right there we go so this octopus was scaled up quite a bit from its original size but yeah very cool and looks great overall i would say and again i was very impressed that i was able to print it on the full x and y axes with no issues whatsoever so for the last two prints we have a astronaut and his spaceship or i guess this is more like a plane chip so the astronaut was printed in kind of like a gray metal look filament it's not the best i got but it does produce like a nice metallic finish the only issue is it's not always super consistent and we can kind of see that in the layerings i don't think it's so much the printer as the filament i would like to see this part being a little smoother but other than that everything looks great and even under the hands here very good cooling usually this part gets pretty bad on most burners we barely had anything to grab onto now we did have a little mess up here but yeah nothing too major still all worked out and stuck to the build plate and we were able to print it out and so for the last print we have the spaceship which is still stuck to the build plate and this is in spiralized mode which is a few layers on the bottom and then just one layer all the way around so it's hollow and then let's see how easy it comes off it's not coming off super easy okay there we go and it's quite fragile if you bend it you could you know crack it in half so yeah as you guys saw it came off really easy and yeah look at that bottom looks great and yeah if we look at the sides here the layers are sitting very nicely now there is something a little bit weird right here here and here not sure what that is the rest of the print is nice and smooth and there's no issues if we look at the actual body here you guys can see how well those layers are sitting very smooth and perfect so yeah very impressive and definitely better than most printers but quite a lot and if we go to the point here we can see it's not really melted it looks really good and by the way guys this is 320 millimeters tall from the bottom to the top and what i noticed is actually on this printer you can go another 15 to 20 millimeters higher than that so i think realistically it's more like 340 a little more than they advertise for the z-axis height but yeah guys overall i'm really impressed with this printer and kind of at the same time i was expecting exactly this a great experience great print quality and just very easy and friendly to use overall now one of the things that i did not really like is the spool holder it's really flimsy and jumps around and because it's not level this pool keeps wanting to kind of drift down so yeah i feel like they could do something better about the sport holder even though i like the function of it it's not as stable or as straight as you would want it and another thing that's a little annoying is that when you are finished with the print you have to wait till the build plate completely cools off until you can try to pry it off now you can try to pry it off earlier but you have a you know high chance of breaking your model because it's sticking really good and when it's still warm so you have to kind of wait till it's done cold and that could take quite a while so yeah and pulling off the build plate every time is not ideal and the other thing i would say that maybe is a little bit a nuisance could be is the pretty loud fan noises the fans are running at full speed and making quite a bit of sound and it's not terrible but i wish they were a bit quieter but other than that there's just positives about this thing you know starting with our build volume very large 300 by 300 by 320 is quite awesome dual z axes tethered on the top with the belt all metal extruder we also have the filament detector cr touch for the bed leveling quiet stepper drivers tmc 2208 i love this little cubby door here for storage the screen is clear and easy to use with this knob and not to mention they're pretty cool look with these little red accents here and there so yeah overall i really like this printer mechanically aesthetically and it's definitely a winner if you want something from creality with this kind of volume so if you guys are interested i'm gonna have some links in description check it out and if you did enjoy this video then hit that like button if you want to see more videos like this and other things i do on this channel stay tuned and also check out my other 3d printing videos and i think you'll find something interesting there so as always guys thanks for watching this channel and i hope to see you on the next video peace

Channel: Just Vlad

Views: 12,372

Keywords: 3d printing, ender 3, 3d printer, 3d printer review, best 3d printer, ender 3 max, 3d print, creality ender 3 max, creality ender 3, ender 3 v2, 3d printed, ender 3 max setup, ender 3 assembly, ender 3 review, step by step, build guide, creality 3d printer, ender 3 setup, creality ender 3 max neo, ender 3 max neo review, ender-3 max neo 3d printer, ender 3 max neo assembly, ender 3 neo max, ender 3 neo, 3d printer time lapse, creality 3d, ender 3 max review

Id: p82TT4tNsb4

Length: 47min 20sec (2840 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 05 2022