HI, I'M RICK STEVES,
BACK WITH MORE OF "THE BEST OF EUROPE." THIS TIME, WE'RE TASTING,
PEDDLING, AND CRUISING OUR WAY THROUGH SCANDINAVIA'S
MOST FUN-LOVING CAPITAL, COPENHAGEN. VISITING COPENHAGEN,
I'M STRUCK BY HOW WELL THIS SOCIETY WORKS,
WITH AN ORDERLINESS, WITHOUT RIGIDITY,
WITH IT'S SLEEK SENSE OF DESIGN, AND A GENERAL CALMNESS,
IT'S BALANCED. IT SEEMS THEY'VE GOT
A SYSTEM THAT WORKS AND THE GOOD SENSE
TO ENJOY IT. WE'LL GO LOCAL,
EXPERIENCE SOME DANISH DELIGHTS, FLIRT WITH THE MERMAID, IMAGINE TOOTING
A 3,000 YEAR-OLD HORN, CHECK OUT THE DAZZLING CROWN OF DENMARK'S
LARGER-THAN-LIFE KING, RELAX IN THE CITY'S
OLD SAILOR'S QUARTER, GET FACE TO FACE WITH ART
IN THE GLYPTOTEK, KICK BACK IN ONE THE ORIGINAL
ALTERNATIVE COMMUNES, AND REVEL IN EUROPE'S
QUEEN OF AMUSEMENT PARKS. THE CLASSIC INTRODUCTION
TO ANY COPENHAGEN VISIT IS A CANAL BOAT RIDE. SINCE THE WORD "COPENHAGEN"
MEANS "MERCHANTS' HARBOR," IT'S ONLY NATURAL
THAT MANY OF THE CITY'S MOST IMPRESSIVE BUILDINGS,
BOTH NEW AND OLD, ARE VISIBLE FROM THE WATER. HARBOR TOUR BOATS
COME AND GO CONSTANTLY, GIVING VISITORS A RELAXING GLIDE
DOWN CANALS AND ALONG THE HARBOR FRONT. COLORFUL MERCHANTS' HOUSES
AND HISTORIC BRIDGES RECALL AN AFFLUENCE
STOKED BY TRADE. SLOTSHOLMEN ISLAND, THE CITY'S
12th-CENTURY BIRTHPLACE, IS LINED WITH GRAND 17th-CENTURY
RENAISSANCE-STYLE BUILDING, AND THIS PART OF THE TOUR
REMINDS US OF DENMARK'S POWERFUL SEAFARING PAST. WHILE THE TOWN PRESERVES
ITS RICH HERITAGE, IT'S ALSO BUILDING
FOR THE FUTURE. THE HARBOR FRONT,
DOTTED WITH NEW LANDMARKS, IS A SHOWCASE FOR DANISH
ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN. THE ROYAL LIBRARY,
NICKNAMED THE BLACK DIAMOND, USES SHINY BLACK GRANITE
TO MAKE ITS IMPRESSION. THE STRIKING PLAY HOUSE,
WITH ITS COPPER ROOF MATCHING THE CITY'S
FAMOUS SPIRES, FEELS INTEGRATED
INTO THE COMMUNITY -- OPEN, INVITING, AND BRINGING
THE ARTS TO THE PEOPLE. JUST ACROSS THE HARBOR,
COPENHAGEN'S OPERA HOUSE IS EVEN BIGGER THAN IT LOOKS. MUCH OF IT IS UNDERGROUND. AND, AS IF TO PROUDLY SHOW OFF
THE NEWEST PART OF COPENHAGEN,
SIGHTSEEING BOATS VENTURE FURTHER FROM THE CENTER
FOR A PEEK AT ONCE-RUNDOWN
INDUSTRIAL ZONES THAT HAVE TAKEN ON NEW LIFE. FORMER INDUSTRIAL BUILDINGS
ARE TRANSFORMED INTO HIGH-END OFFICES AND CONDOS,
CREATING A PLAYFUL NEW SKYLINE. GLASS SEEMS TO BE THE CONSTRUCTION MATERIAL
OF CHOICE. AND THE HARBOR'S COVER GIRL. THE MOST-PHOTOGRAPHED
CITIZEN OF COPENHAGEN IS THE LITTLE MERMAID. IN THE MUCH-LOVED
HANS CHRISTIAN ANDERSEN FAIRY TALE,
SHE SAVES THE LIFE OF A SHIPWRECKED PRINCE
AND SETS OFF ON A FUTILE QUEST TO WIN HIS LOVE. THE VIBRANT SQUARE FRONTING
THE IMPOSING CITY HALL IS THE BUSY HEART OF COPENHAGEN. IT'S A CROSSROADS WHERE
EVERYTHING SEEMS TO CONVERGE. WHILE CENTRAL TODAY,
THIS WAS ONCE THE EDGE OF TOWN. THIS BOULEVARD MARKS
WHAT WAS THE CITY WALLS. FOR SEVEN CENTURIES,
COPENHAGEN WAS CONTAINED WITHIN THESE WALLS. BY THE MID-1800s,
OVER 100,000 PEOPLE WERE PACKED INSIDE. ALL THIS CONGESTION
LED TO HYGIENE PROBLEMS. AFTER A CHOLERA OUTBREAK
KILLED THOUSANDS, IT WAS CLEAR THE CITY WALLS
HAD TO COME DOWN, AND THEY DID. TODAY, ONLY THEIR ECHOES REMAIN. REMNANTS OF MOATS AND RAMPARTS
NOW FORM A DELIGHTFUL GREEN BELT --
A STRING OF TRANQUIL LAKES AND PEOPLE-FRIENDLY PARKS. FROM THE CITY HALL,
THE STROGET, A SERIES OF LIVELY STREETS
AND INVITING SQUARES, STRETCHES THROUGH THE OLD TOWN. ESTABLISHED IN 1962, IT WAS EUROPE'S FIRST
MAJOR PEDESTRIAN BOULEVARD. A TRAFFIC-FREE STREET WAS AN EXPERIMENTAL NOTION
AT THE TIME. THOUGH MERCHANTS WERE
INITIALLY SKEPTICAL, IT'S A HIT NOW, AND THE STROGET HAS INSPIRED CITY PLANNERS
THROUGHOUT THE WORLD. AND, AS SHOPKEEPERS
ON NEIGHBORING STREETS SEE THE BENEFITS OF
TRAFFIC-FREE ZONES, OTHER DOWNTOWN STREETS
ARE ALSO BEING PEDESTRIANIZED. NOW, STREETS LIKE THIS ADD TO COPENHAGEN'S THRIVING
CAFE AND RESTAURANT SCENE. AS YOU STROLL, REALIZE THAT
THE COMMERCIAL SUCCESS OF A HISTORIC STREET
LIKE THE STROGET DRIVES UP THE LAND VALUE. THIS RESULTS IN THE REPLACEMENT
OF OLD STOREFRONTS WITH NEW ONES
AND BRINGS IN THE CHAINS. LOOK ABOVE THE STREET-LEVEL
ADVERTISING TO DISCOVER BITS OF THE 19th-CENTURY
CHARACTER THAT STILL SURVIVE. ABOVE THE CROWDS, ATTRACTIVE PIECES
OF OLD COPENHAGEN HIDE OUT. SO WE'LL BETTER UNDERSTAND
WHAT WE'RE DISCOVERING, WE'RE JOINED BY
MY DANISH FRIEND AND FELLOW TOUR GUIDE,
CHRISTIAN DONATZKY. SO THIS IS
AN OLD HOUSE HERE. THIS IS AN OLD HOUSE
FROM THE 18th CENTURY. LET'S STEP INSIDE. YOU CAN GET A REALLY,
REALLY GOOD FEELING FOR OLD COPENHAGEN HERE. IF YOU WANDER OFF
THE MAIN STREETS AND WALK INTO THE BACKYARDS,
THEN YOU GET A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT IMPRESSION OF HOW
COPENHAGEN USED TO LOOK. THIS IS REALLY HOW
MUCH OF COPENHAGEN LOOKED IN THE 18th CENTURY. SO PEOPLE LIVED WITHIN
THE SAFETY OF THE RAMPARTS
IN THE 1700s. WELL, ACTUALLY, THEY HAD TO
LIVE INSIDE THE RAMPARTS BECAUSE OUTSIDE OF THE RAMPARTS,
THERE WAS A MILITARY AREA WHERE THEY WEREN'T
ALLOWED TO LIVE. THAT'S WHY YOU GET
THIS CONGESTED FEELING. THAT'S WHY YOU GET
THE CONGESTED FEELING, AND AFTER THE FIRE IN 1795,
THEY COULDN'T BUILD HALF-TIMBERED BUILDINGS, SO WHEN YOU SEE
HALF-TIMBERED BUILDINGS, YOU'LL KNOW THEY'RE OLD. SO YOU KNOW WHEN YOU SEE
THIS HALF-TIMBER -- IT'S BEFORE 1795, YEAH. Steves: AS YOU EXPLORE,
YOU'RE BOUND TO PASS WINDOWS LINED WITH ENTICING
OPEN-FACE SANDWICHES. WHILE THESE TEMPTING BEAUTIES ARE LESS EXPENSIVE
THAN TAKE-AWAY STREET CORNER
SANDWICH SHOPS, CHRISTIAN'S TAKING ME
TO A RESTAURANT TO EXPLAIN THIS TASTY
DANISH TRADITION IN STYLE. HERE WE GO. THAT LOOKS DELICIOUS. BIG VARIETY, RIGHT? YEAH. THERE YOU ARE. ENJOY. <i> TAK,</i> THANK YOU. SO THIS IS REALLY
WHAT THE DANES' CUISINE HAS TO OFFER,
OUR FAMOUS LUNCH, AND WE HAVE HERE
THREE COURSES -- HERRING, MEAT, CHEESE,
ALWAYS ON RYE BREAD. ALWAYS ON RYE,
AND IN THAT ORDER THERE. HERRING, THE ROAST PORK,
AND THEN THE CHEESE. FIRST OF ALL, <i> SMORREBROD.</i> <i> SMORREBROD,</i> YEAH,
THAT'S THE NAME. <i> SMORREBROD,</i>
WHICH MEANS, ACTUALLY,
JUST "BUTTER ON BREAD." BUTTER ON BREAD, OKAY. THIS IS A LITTLE MORE
THAN BUTTER ON BREAD NOW. IT'S EVOLVED, HUH? SO THE HERRING COURSE,
ON A PIECE OF RYE BREAD. NICE, LOOK AT THAT. SO, WITH THE HERRING,
YOU HAVE TO HAVE AN<i> AKVAVIT.</i> <i> AKVAVIT</i> IS PERFECT
FOR HERRING. IT'S THE DANISH SCHNAPPS,
BASICALLY. THIS IS THE DANISH SCHNAPPS,
THAT'S WHAT WE CALL IT. <i> AKVAVIT.</i>
WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? THAT MEANS
"THE WATER OF LIFE," AND IT TASTES LIKE THAT
WHEN IT GOES WITH THE HERRING. SO, RICK, THIS IS NOT HOW
WE DRINK SCHNAPPS IN DENMARK. YOU HAVE TO EMPTY
THE WHOLE GLASS. THIS IS THE LEARNER'S DOSE HERE. BUT I'LL GIVE IT A GO,
DANISH-STYLE. YES. YEAH, THERE YOU ARE. Steves: ON GAMMELTORV,
THE OLD TOWN SQUARE, THE FOUNTAIN, WHICH IS
THE OLDEST IN COPENHAGEN, IS NAMED FOR
THE FIGURE OF CHARITY ON TOP. QUITE A FOUNTAIN. THE FOUNTAIN IS REALLY AN OLD
WELL FROM THE 16th CENTURY SUPPLYING WATER
TO THE COPENHAGENERS. THE STATUE OF CHARITY
WAS FROM THE 17th CENTURY, BUT IN THE 19th CENTURY,
MIDDLE OF THE 19th CENTURY, THE VICTORIAN AGE,
IT WAS TOO MUCH, SO THEY CORKED THE HOLES. THEY CORKED IT.
SO, BEFORE THE VICTORIAN AGE, NO PROBLEM,
AND THEN, TOO RISQUé. BUT TODAY, WITH OUR
OPEN-MINDEDNESS, THE WATER CAN SPRING FREELY
ONCE AGAIN. PROGRESSIVE DANES --
LET THE FOUNTAIN FLOW. EXACTLY. Steves: EVERY SITE WE'RE
FEATURING ON THIS VISIT IS WITHIN A 15-MINUTE STROLL
OF HERE, AND DENMARK'S GREATEST MUSEUM
IS JUST AROUND THE CORNER. THE NATIONAL MUSEUM
TRACES THE STORY OF THIS LAND FROM ITS
PREHISTORIC BEGINNINGS. DENMARK'S BRONZE AGE
CIVILIZATION DATES BACK TO 1,500 YEARS BEFORE CHRIST. THIS ELDERLY WOMAN,
WHOSE COFFIN, CARVED OUT OF AN OAK TREE,
WAS PRESERVED IN A PEATY BOG, MUST HAVE BELIEVED
IN AN AFTERLIFE. SHE TOOK HER MOST
PRECIOUS POSSESSIONS WITH HERE. STILL WEARING
HER ORIGINAL WOOL BLOUSE, SHE PACKED A FINELY-CARVED
HORNED COMB, BRONZE JEWELRY, AND A DAGGER. LIKE HER MEDITERRANEAN
CONTEMPORARIES, SHE WOULD HAVE
WORSHIPPED THE SUN. THE CHARIOT OF THE SUN
ILLUSTRATES THAT SHE BELIEVED THE SUN WAS DRAGGED ACROSS
THE SKY BY A DIVINE HORSE. THIS DAILY OF JOURNEY OF THE SUN
DOMINATED BRONZE AGE RELIGION, AND THESE HORNED HELMETS
WERE WORN ABOUT 500 YEARS LATER
AROUND 1,000 B.C. CONTRARY TO POPULAR BELIEF, THESE HELMETS
WERE NOT WORN BY THE VIKINGS. IT WAS THEIR
BRONZE AGE PREDECESSORS WHO WORE THEM
FOR CEREMONIAL PURPOSES 2,000 YEARS
BEFORE ERIK THE RED. HORNED-HELMETED PRIESTS
WOULD HAVE PLAYED THESE LUR HORNS. THESE DISTINCTIVE
NORDIC WIND INSTRUMENTS, FOUND IN BOGS ALL OVER DENMARK, ADDED ATMOSPHERE
TO BRONZE AGE RITUAL. WHILE 3,000 YEARS OLD,
AS OLD AS<i> THE ILIAD</i> AND<i> THE ODYSSEY,</i>
THEY STILL PLAY. EVEN BACK THEN, THE DANES HAD
A FLARE FOR DESIGN. THE ORNAMENTAL DISC
IS A SUN SYMBOL, PERHAPS AS IF
THESE HORNS PLAYED THE MAGICAL MUSIC
OF THE SUN. GETTING AROUND COPENHAGEN
IS EASY, ESPECIALLY IF YOU CAN
RIDE A BIKE. TODAY'S CITY IS DESIGNED
FOR CYCLISTS. MANY LOCALS FIND
PEDDLING AROUND TOWN IS MORE EFFICIENT
THAN DRIVING. CYCLISTS GET RESPECT, AND GENEROUS BIKE LANES
GIVE BIKES ALL THE LEGITIMACY OF CARS. LIKE MANY HOTELS,
OURS RENTS BIKES TO GUESTS. ON MY BIKE, I CAN GET
MOST ANYWHERE IN TOWN IN 10 TO 15 MINUTES. COPENHAGEN HAS
LOTS OF IDYLLIC PARKS. ITS MOST ROYAL
IS THE KING'S GARDENS SURROUNDING
THE ROSENBORG CASTLE. WE'RE HERE IN JULY,
AND SUN-LOVING DANES ARE GETTING THE MOST
OUT OF THE LONG DAYS OF THEIR SHORT SUMMER. ONCE UPON A TIME,
THIS WAS THE KING'S GARDEN. THAT KING, CHRISTIAN IV,
IS THE MOST MEMORABLE CHARACTER IN DANISH HISTORY. RULING FROM 1588 UNTIL 1648, HE WAS DENMARK'S
RENAISSANCE KING. ROSENBORG CASTLE WAS THE KING'S
SUMMER RESIDENCE. FOR ANYONE ENTERING
THE AUDIENCE ROOM, ALL EYES WERE ON CHRISTIAN IV. CHECK THIS GUY OUT. OFTEN DEPICTED AS
A ROMAN EMPEROR, HE WAS A BIG PERSONALITY. CHRISTIAN IV
WAS DYNAMISM IN THE FLESH -- EARRING,
FASHIONABLE BRAID, HARD DRINKER,
HARD LOVER, BIG SPENDER, ENERGETIC STATESMAN,
WARRIOR KING. DURING HIS REIGN
OF OVER 50 YEARS, THE SIZE OF COPENHAGEN DOUBLED. HIS STUDY WAS SMALL,
COZY, EASY TO HEAT. LIKE ANY GOOD KING, CHRISTIAN DID
A LOT OF CORRESPONDING. HISTORIANS KNOW A LOT
ABOUT HIS RULE BECAUSE 3,000 OF HIS
HANDWRITTEN LETTERS SURVIVE. HE WAS EIGHT YEARS OLD
WHEN HIS FATHER DIED, STILL TOO YOUNG TO RULE
WITHOUT A REGENT. A PORTRAIT SHOWS HIS MOTHER. AND THIS ONE SHOWS
THE KING IN HIS PRIME. IN ANOTHER ROOM,
A CASE DISPLAYS THE BLOOD-STAINED CLOTHING CHRISTIAN WORE
WHEN WOUNDED IN BATTLE. RIDDLED WITH SHRAPNEL,
HE LOST AN EYE. NO PROBLEM FOR DENMARK'S
WARRIOR KING. HE FASHIONED THESE EARRINGS
MADE FROM THE SHRAPNEL HE YANKED OUT OF HIS EYE
AND FOREHEAD AND GAVE THEM
TO HIS MISTRESS. THE KING DIED
AFTER HALF A CENTURY ON THE DANISH THRONE,
LEAVING A COLORFUL LEGACY. CHRISTIAN LIVED TO BE
70 YEARS OLD. HE HAD TWO WIVES,
THREE MISTRESSES, FATHERED ROUGHLY 25 CHILDREN. AFTER CHRISTIAN, THREE MORE KINGS
USED THIS PALACE. HERE IN THE LONG HALL,
TAPESTRIES CELEBRATE GLORIOUS DANISH
MILITARY VICTORIES OVER SWEDEN,
BUT NOT THE LOSSES. AND THE KING'S THRONE
IS SURROUNDED BY SYMBOLS OF ROYAL POWER. THE TREASURY IS SAFELY STORED
IN THE BASEMENT. CHRISTIAN IV'S
CORONATION CROWN DATES FROM 1596. WITH SEVEN POUNDS OF GOLD
AND PRECIOUS STONES, MANY CONSIDER THIS
THE FINEST RENAISSANCE CROWN IN EUROPE. ITS SIX GABLES
RADIATE SYMBOLISM. THERE'S JUSTICE,
THE SWORD AND SCALES, CHARITY, A WOMAN NURSING,
PROMISING THAT THE KING WILL LOVE HIS PEOPLE
AS A MOTHER LOVES HER CHILD, AND THE PELICAN,
WHICH, IN LEGEND, PECKS ITS OWN FLESH
TO FEED ITS YOUNG JUST AS THE KING WOULD MAKE
GREAT SACRIFICES FOR HIS PEOPLE. THE SHIELDS OF VARIOUS
DANISH PROVINCES LINING THE INSIDE
REMIND THE KING THAT HE'S SURROUNDED
BY HIS REALMS. CASES OF TREASURES
DAZZLE VISITORS. TODAY'S ROYAL JEWELS
WERE MADE IN 1840 OF DIAMONDS, EMERALDS,
RUBIES, AND PEARLS FROM EARLIER ROYAL JEWELRY. IMAGINE THESE
ON THE DANCE FLOOR. THE CROWN JEWELS
ARE STILL WORN BY THE QUEEN ON SPECIAL OCCASIONS. DENMARK'S KINGS
EMBRACED LUTHERANISM AS THE STATE RELIGION
DURING THE REFORMATION BACK IN THE 16th CENTURY. THIS MEMORIAL CELEBRATES
DENMARK'S BREAK FROM THE ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH. ACROSS THE STREET
STANDS COPENHAGEN'S VERY LUTHERAN CATHEDRAL. REBUILT IN THE EARLY 1800s, THE FACADE MIMICS
A GREEK TEMPLE. AT THAT TIME,
GOLDEN AGE COPENHAGEN FANCIED ITSELF
AS A NORDIC ATHENS. JOHN THE BAPTIST
STANDS WHERE YOU'D EXPECT TO SEE
SOME GREEK GOD. HE WELCOMES WORSHIPPERS
INTO A WORLD OF NEOCLASSICAL SERENITY. STATUES OF THE 12 APOSTLES
LINE THE NAVE, CARVED BY THE GREAT
DANISH SCULPTOR BERTEL THORVALDSEN. INSPIRED BY THE FAMOUS
ITALIAN SCULPTOR CANOVA, HIS ART COMPLEMENTS
THE RELATIVE AUSTERITY AND COMFORTING SIMPLICITY
OF LUTHERAN WORSHIP. THE APOSTLES LEAD
TO THORVALDSEN'S MASTERPIECE, A STATUE OF
THE RISEN CHRIST. THORVALDSEN WAS A MASTER
AT SHOWING BOTH HEAVENLY
AND HUMAN CHARACTERISTICS. WEARING HIS BURIAL SHROUD,
JESUS OPENS HIS ARMS AND SAYS, "COME TO ME." FROM THE REVERENT TRANQUILITY OF THE CATHEDRAL,
IT'S JUST A FEW STEPS TO COPENHAGEN'S HAPPY-GO-LUCKY
NEW HARBOR, OR NYHAVN. NYHAVN, FORMERLY A SLEAZY
SAILOR'S QUARTER, IS A NOW A COLORFUL SCENE
WITH BOTH LOCALS AND TOURISTS
LOUNGING CONTENTEDLY ALONG ITS CANAL. OLD SAILBOATS FILL THE HARBOR. ANY TRADITIONAL ALL-WOOD SHIP IS WELCOME TO MOOR HERE,
JOINING THE FLEET THAT MAKES UP COPENHAGEN'S EVER-CHANGING BOAT SHOW,
A SCENE OF MODERN-DAY VIKINGS GONE SOFT. THE SCENE HERE
IS THE BEST FREE SHOW IN TOWN. TAKE SOME TIME TO ENJOY IT. ♪♪ FOR YOUNG AND OLD,
RICH AND POOR, BEER'S THE BEVERAGE OF CHOICE, WITH THE COMFORTABLE CROWD
LOOKING ON FROM CAFES WHILE THE YOUNGER CROWD
ROUGHS IT ON THE DOCK. SO THIS IS A BUDGET TIP,
REALLY. IF YOU WANT TO DRINK A BEER
IN DENMARK WITHOUT GOING BROKE... THEN YOU GO TO A KIOSK,
YOU GO TO A KIOSK, YOU BUY A BEER THERE,
IT COSTS A THIRD OF THE PRICE
THAT IT COSTS AT THE BARS. A LOT OF AMERICANS,
THEY SEE ALL THE YOUNG PEOPLE DRINKING BEER OUTSIDE,
AND THEY THINK, "BEER'S EVERYWHERE,"
BUT REALLY, IT'S JUST, THE KIDS ARE NOT IN
THE PUBS DRINKING BECAUSE IT'S TOO EXPENSIVE. YOUNG PEOPLE ARE DRINKING BEER
ON THE CURB. IT'S A MATTER
OF SAVING MONEY, REALLY. Man: ♪ AND YOU ♪ ♪ WAS THE BEST ♪ ♪ WHY NOT TAKE THE REST ♪ ♪ SO WHY NOT ♪ ♪ TAKE ALL OF ME? ♪♪ Steves: COPENHAGEN'S
NEW CARLSBERG GLYPTOTEK, NAMED FOR DENMARK'S
LEADING BREWERY, IS ONE OF SCANDINAVIA'S
TOP ART GALLERIES. THIS IS A GREAT EXAMPLE
OF CORPORATE MONEY, IN THIS CASE,
ALL THAT BEER MONEY, PUT TO GOOD USE. IN ABOUT 1900,
THE FAMILY BEHIND THE CARLSBERG BREWERY DONATED
ITS EXTENSIVE COLLECTION OF ART AND A FINE BUILDING TO HOUSE IT
TO COPENHAGEN. NOW, OVER A CENTURY LATER,
THE CREATIVE VISION OF THAT WEALTHY BREWER
STILL BRINGS LOTS OF PEOPLE
LOTS OF JOY. TO LURE GARDEN-LOVING DANES, THE MUSEUM SETS SCULPTURE
AMONG MEDITERRANEAN PLANTS IN ITS FAMOUS WINTER GARDEN. THE CLASSICAL STATUES
AND LUSH TREES TRANSPORT VISITORS
INTO A SCENE STRAIGHT OUT OF SOME
EXOTIC ROMAN MYTH. FROM THIS DELIGHTFUL HUB, YOU CAN EXPLORE
THE MUSEUM'S FORTES -- ANCIENT MEDITERRANEAN ART AND 19th AND 20th-CENTURY
FRENCH AND DANISH ART. THE ANCIENT COLLECTION
IS ARTFULLY LIT AND DISPLAYED. EACH HALL WAS DESIGNED FOR
THE ART IT WOULD SHOWCASE, ALL DONE WITH THAT SPECIAL
DANISH KNACK FOR DESIGN. A CHORUS OF ANCIENT ROMAN BUSTS
THOUGHTFULLY PLACED AT EYE LEVEL WELCOMES YOU INTO THEIR WORLD. AND, WITH THIS SMALL BUT FINE
EGYPTIAN COLLECTION, THE POWER OF THE PHARAOH REACHES
ALL THE WAY TO DENMARK. THE EARLY 19th CENTURY
WAS THE DANISH GOLDEN AGE, WHEN PAINTERS, WRITERS,
AND DANES IN GENERAL WERE CELEBRATING
THE ROOTS AND VALUES OF THEIR DANISHNESS. HERE, THE LEADING
DANISH PAINTER, KOBKE, PAINTS A SCENE AT
THE RAMPARTS OF COPENHAGEN AS IF WE WERE THERE,
WITH A ROMANTIC, YET REALISTIC, FLAIR. THE MUSEUM'S FOUNDER WAS BOTH
A FRIEND AND A MAJOR PATRON OF THE FRENCH ARTIST RODIN, EUROPE'S GREATEST SCULPTOR
SINCE MICHELANGELO. HERE, WHERE SUNLIGHT IS
SO PLENTIFUL IN THE SUMMER AND SO RARE IN THE WINTER, THE LIGHT REVEALS THE ART
IN A LOVING WAY. ENJOYING RODIN'S FAMOUS<i> KISS,</i>
YOU SENSE THE ARTIST HIMSELF WOULD APPRECIATE
THE PLAY OF THE LIGHT. COPENHAGEN IS A THRIVING
COMMERCIAL CENTER, AND THE ECONOMY IS GREASED BY
A FINE PUBLIC TRANSIT SYSTEM. THEIR METRO IS STATE-OF-THE-ART,
TUNNELING UNDERWATER TO CONNECT MAJOR NEIGHBORHOODS. THE DANES VOTE FOR HIGH TAXES
WITH HIGH EXPECTATIONS, INCLUDING A TRANSPORTATION
SYSTEM THAT WORKS. WE EMERGE IN THE CHARMING
DISTRICT OF CHRISTIANSHAVN, ONCE COPENHAGEN'S PORT. BACK IN THE 17th
AND 18th CENTURIES, THESE BUILDINGS
WERE WAREHOUSES. THIS REMAINED COPENHAGEN'S
COMMERCIAL CENTER UNTIL THE 1920s,
WHEN A MODERN HARBOR WAS BUILT FURTHER OUT. AS THE PORT'S ECONOMY COLLAPSED,
THE PLACE BECAME A SLUM. CHEAP PRICES ATTRACTED
ARTSY TYPES, IT BECAME TRENDY, AND NOW, THOSE OLD WAREHOUSES
ARE UPMARKET CONDOS. THE CENTERPIECE
OF CHRISTIANSHAVN IS OUR SAVIORS'S CHURCH
WITH ITS BELOVED STEEPLE, A LANDMARK THAT CAN BE SEEN
FROM ALL OVER TOWN. ITS UNIQUE EXTERIOR
SPIRAL STAIRCASE REWARDS THOSE WHO CLIMB IT WITH COMMANDING VIEWS
OF THE CITY. JUST DOWN THE STREET IS
THE FAMOUS COMMUNE CHRISTIANIA. IN 1971,
SEVERAL HUNDRED SQUATTERS TOOK OVER AN ABANDONED
MILITARY BARRACKS AND ATTEMPTED TO CREATE
THEIR OWN UTOPIA. TWO GENERATIONS LATER,
THOSE IDEALISTS ARE STILL HERE, DEFENDING THEIR RIGHT
TO ENJOY LIFE ON THEIR TERMS. BACK THEN, CITY OFFICIALS
ALLOWED THE SQUATTERS' TAKEOVER BECAUSE NO ONE CARED
ABOUT THE LAND. NOW, THIS AREA'S BECOMING SOME
OF THE PRICIEST REAL ESTATE IN TOWN. DEVELOPERS HAVE THEIR SIGHTS
SET ON THIS LAND, AND THE VERY EXISTENCE
OF THE CHRISTIANIA COMMUNITY IS THREATENED. DEPENDING ON YOUR PERSPECTIVE, THIS IS EITHER A SHANTYTOWN OF SCRUFFY BUILDINGS,
SOFT DRUGS, AND DAZED PEOPLE, OR A DO-YOUR-OWN-THING HAVEN OF CREATIVITY, PEACE,
AND FREEDOM. WHILE THE MAIN DRAG,
NICKNAMED PUSHER STREET FOR ITS MARIJUANA STALLS,
MAY BE A BIT OFF-PUTTING, WANDER DEEPER
INTO THE COMMUNITY AND YOU FIND
THE REAL SOUL OF CHRISTIANIA. THIS FAMILY HAS BEEN
CONTENT TO LIVE ON THIS IDYLLIC SPOT
FOR 30 YEARS. THEIR DAUGHTER WAS BORN
AND RAISED RIGHT HERE. MANY FAMILIES
SHARE THIS BUILDING, AND THERE'S ALWAYS SOMEONE
TO PLAY WITH JUST OUTSIDE THE FRONT DOOR. HOW LONG HAVE YOU LIVED
IN CHRISTIANIA? I LIVED IN CHRISTIANIA
15 YEARS. NOW, YOU COULD LIVE IN
A FANCY CONDOMINIUM, BUT YOU CHOOSE TO LIVE HERE. WHY DO YOU LIVE HERE? BECAUSE I HAVE
AN ENORMOUS FREEDOM. IT'S ALL ABOUT FREEDOM. YES, IT IS. SO, WE LOOK AT HERE,
WE HAVE 800 PEOPLE LIVING HERE, MAKING SOME COMPROMISES,
BUT STILL BEING FREE. YES, EXACTLY. IT'S A COMPLICATED CHALLENGE. IT IS, AND WE HAVE --
WE HAVE OUR BAD EXPERIENCE AND GOOD EXPERIENCE,
SO... BUT THE GOOD THING ABOUT IT
THAT WE -- WE LEARN. Steves: AFTER FOUR DECADES, THE CHRISTIANIA COMMUNITY
HAS EVOLVED, BUT IT'S STILL ANCHORED IN
ITS ORIGINAL CONCEPT OF PERSONAL FREEDOM. AND THERE IS SOMETHING ELSE,
I THINK IS VERY IMPORTANT. WE DON'T HAVE
COMMERCIALS HERE. NO COMMERCIALS. HAVE YOU SEEN? IT'S NO SIGNS OR NO ONE,
"BUY THIS, BUY THAT." NO COMM -- I WONDERED WHY -- IT'S ILLEGAL IN HERE. Steves: EVEN IN
THIS INFORMAL COMMUNITY, THERE STILL ARE RULES. WHILE MARIJUANA IS TOLERATED, NO HARD DRUGS OR WEAPONS
ARE ALLOWED. IT'S SO IMPORTANT
FOR A PLAYGROUND ALSO FOR GROWNUPS. Steves: COPENHAGEN OFFERS
PLAYGROUNDS FOR EVERY TASTE. TIVOLI IS EUROPE'S MOST FAMOUS
AMUSEMENT PARK. THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER,
TIVOLI GARDENS OFFERS
A FESTIVAL OF ENTERTAINMENT. 20 ACRES, 100,000 LANTERNS,
AND COUNTLESS CALORIES OF FUN. IT'S A JOY TO GET LOST
IN THIS WONDERLAND OF RIDES, RESTAURANTS, AND GAMES. [ BELL RINGS ] UPON ARRIVAL, SORT THROUGH
THE SCHEDULE OF FREE EVENTS. THERE'S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE
ALL DAY LONG. TONIGHT,
IT'S ROCK-OUT FRIDAY -- A CHANCE TO CHECK OUT
SOME RISING DANISH TALENT. ♪♪ ♪ I DON'T KNOW IF YOU'VE GOT ♪ ♪ SOMEBODY WITH YOU ♪ ♪ I DON'T KNOW IF YOU'VE GOT ♪ ♪ SOMEBODY WITH YOU ♪♪ Steves: THIS GRANDDADDY
OF AMUSEMENT PARKS RECENTLY CELEBRATED
ITS 150th BIRTHDAY. I FIND IT WORTH THE ADMISSION JUST TO SEE DANES
YOUNG AND OLD AT PLAY. TIVOLI, SO COMFORTABLE
WITH ITS IDENTITY, IS HAPPILY DANISH AND WONDERFULLY COPENHAGEN. THANKS FOR JOINING US. I HOPE YOU'VE ENJOYED
OUR LOOK AT COPENHAGEN, A CITY WITH A KNACK
FOR ENJOYING LIFE THAT'S DISTINCTLY DANISH
AND WHERE HARMONY IS INTEGRAL TO THE CULTURE. I'M RICK STEVES. UNTIL NEXT TIME,
KEEP ON TRAVELING.
