Building up a new hardtail mountain bike... again!

welcome to another episode of burn peak Express and today we're gonna build a heart tale again this is the same heart ale I had before it's a Diamondback sinker carbon size small I broke the old one I broke the frame when the documentarian was here I was doing all the features here over and over and over again on the heart ale jump the driveway landed nose-heavy had a sort of whiplash thing and broke the seat stay right there Carbon bikes are very very strong and you can beat on them all day and they won't break but if you impact the actual frame into a rock or something repeatedly you're gonna compromise it I can't for the life of me remember where I might have impacted my frame into a rock repeatedly but I'm gonna do some detective work and see if I can figure it out so another thing about that frame was it was pre-production I had that a year before it was available to the general public it's kind of high time I moved on to the actual production version of the sinker carbon when diamondback sent this to me they didn't send me the highest spec build of it with all the nicest parts because they know I'm gonna take them all off and put my own parts on it nevertheless there are some interesting things on it for instance we have SRAM Eagle GX now on my main trail bike I run box 1 prime 9 and I've never ridden a bike with GX Eagle like I've never owned one so we're gonna test it on this bike and compare it to prime 9 see how it goes the cranks it came with are nice but I have the carbon ones from my old bike so these are gonna go on there and the fork is a Fox 34 it's not the most high-end fork Fox makes but it's pretty good so I think I'm gonna leave it there in any case let's get to the build first I have to take a number of things off this bike so that I can put my parts on it and the first thing you need to take off the crank set these cranks being kind of entry-level if you take this bolt off you can't just pull it off with your bare hands and I'm gonna show you how we do that this is a crank puller tool and it is designed to pull cranks off as we screw it in it's actually gonna push on the spindle and pull the arm out and there we go it pulled it right off the spindle airing piece in here that the spindle goes into that is the bottom bracket bearing we are going to replace that as well because we're putting a different type of crank set on there this bottom bracket tool is gonna fit into the spline right here so you're gonna actually tighten it to make you come off and there comes the whole thing and this is heavy the new one that I'm putting in is really really light it weighs a fraction of what this thing does doing anything involving a bottom bracket is usually a point of confusion for a lot of new riders because there's so many different sizes spindle sizes bottom bracket shell widths there's a company wheels manufacturing group and whether it's a derailleur hanger or a bottom bracket you can just go on their website and there's like a finder tool and you can get the right one so this is supposed to have the correct bearing spacer in everything for my bike so I shouldn't have to double check it we should just be able to install it let's put this guy in we want to put a little bit of grease on the threads so that doesn't seize up we're gonna screw that in we got our spacer on here we'll put it in here remember it's reverse thread so we got to go loose to tighten it and then once it's on here we have to torque it down pretty tight and there's no way to grab that this I also got from wheels manufacturing it's the actual tool that fits over the bearing and I'll show you how it works so this piece the splines are gonna fit right over it so we're gonna get that on there we're gonna hold it in place and there we go move on to the other side this side is not reverse thread there we go I taken some things apart and clean them up so I'm just gonna put my whole chain ring back on that same tool I use to remove the old bottom bracket I'm gonna use to tighten on the new chain ring and I have a little trick I just put this in the vise cinch lock ring is gonna go on top of it I'm gonna make sure I have grease on the threads we will wind this up how we want it and then we can just tighten it on I can just push this way and keep my hands free and clear of the chain ring and get it really really tight there we go and then our tool comes out of the vise alright we're just going to put this all together now okay dust cap goes on first then we got a couple of little spacers they included something funny about these splines you can act lying up the crank arms the wrong way see if you go like this and you could have a crank set that's completely not right and when you get on the bike you go oh whoa what is going on with this one pretty hard to mess up there nice big chunky splines so you can line it up pretty easy looks good so next up we're gonna work on the cockpit that's the handlebar stem everything up front for your steering and kind of operating the bike I'm gonna take these brakes off and put some TRP brakes on from scratch let's start by taking all this stuff off of here and then we're gonna install the new cockpit check this out over here on my main full suspension trail bike right here at the stem this comes out and now we have a multi-tool a chain tool spoke wrench and inside of here we have a tire plug kit and master link removal tool all built into here to make this go hollow all the way down I have to actually thread this fork over here so that there's little threads to screw into there's a way to do it without but they were out of stock on the kit so we're threading it here we have our fork in the top this little star nut pushes down into the fork and then when you're tightening down the top cap it threads into it but if the top cap is in the way we can't put our tool in there we're going to put this tool on top of the fork thread this and then we're gonna get a big ol allen key and we're just gonna yank on it until that star nut comes out there we are so the star nuts all mangled came out but the other half of the star nut is still freakin in there our EDC tool is not gonna go in here with the rest of that star nut in place so I think we can put the fork upside down on the bench we can get something in there and we can just hammer on it until it comes out and I don't think we're gonna damage a thing okay so I've successfully banged a 10 millimeter allen wrench through the star nut but still no luck getting it out this is not good so now I'm faced with trying to get this allen wrench out of my fork almost there and it's out so same company who makes the EDC tool makes the stem one up so we're gonna just thread the fork tube like they did in the old days so we're gonna put a tray on the floor to catch all the filings this is the tap that's going to tap into my Fork then this guide is going to make sure it remains straight then you just take a big 8 millimeter allen key put it through here you start threading now once it gets started once it bites you'll feel it and when it goes in a little way is you want to actually back up a little bit to give the chips a chance to evacuate and that's why I have this tray down here is because I don't want these sharp metal filings all over my floor and look at that now the inside of that fork tube is actually threaded and what that's going to allow us to do is take this top cap to tighten the bearings and actually thread it into the top of the fork and with that in the EDC tool is gonna fit right into the top of the fork alright so now that that's threaded we can put our fork and our stem and our handlebars on and we can start working on the rest of the cockpit alright so first we'll line up our shifter that gets slid on then our brake levers are gonna go on and what are we doing for grips well I got a little story to tell ya I'm still testing the ribbed grips Rev grips was actually presenting at Sedona mountain bike festival so yeah they had a booth and everything I was just walking by and they were like Seth Seth and I'm like oh here goes here comes they expressed disappointment that they had not released a certain revision sooner because it didn't make it into the video if you remember in the video one of my biggest complaints about the red grips was these little rubber things that keep popping out as you try to install them and each one of them can actually come out individually see now as I'm taking apart this Rev gripped those little rubber things were the most painful part of the installation so the Rev grip guy handed me this little bag and guess what they are it's what they should have done from the start all the rubber things built into this one ring so you just slide this ring on and push the grip together and you're done let's see how they work much better it's good that the company sitting there listening and making improvements and things that was way easier so an another thing that I learned from talking to the Rebbe Grips guys is that you can over tighten them and it doesn't change the way the grips perform so I'm gonna tighten these on really good so I'm gonna undo the shifter cable and then I'm gonna put the brake hose and the shifter cable into heat shrink tubing it looks like we got our lengths right so that's good so now we can take the heat gun and we can make this heat shrink tubing hold all this together takes about 10 minutes or so so on your front brake you want to leave a pretty good amount so that your bars can spin all the way around so we're gonna cut it right here and our cockpit is looking pretty clean that little twist drives me nuts though it just eats away at my soul every single time I see it we're gonna put the front wheel in when I put these on the heart tail I couldn't say anything about him now I can they're available to the public Crankbrothers made some wheels a few years ago and nobody liked them they got terrible reviews then the next year they worked really hard and they made a set of wheels called the synthesis carbons and those ones were really good they got really good reviews and this is the alloy version of the synthesis wheel so they're more affordable now what makes these wheels different is that they're tuned the rear wheel has tighter spokes than the front wheel the front wheel actually has some compliance so when you're going into turns it actually flexes a little bit and gives you some kind of side suspension I thought it was kind of a marketing ploy and then I rode it for about a month and these wheels feel different to me I would actually love to run these on all my bikes these synthesis wheels came higher spec so they actually have industry 9 hubs on them that glorious cassette sound so we have to install the cassette on here so as I said we're gonna be throwing GX Eagle on there and try it out it's likes rams mid-range 12 speed I don't particularly need more gears I just needed a really low here and a really high here but this gives you more in between anyway we can throw this wheel on here line up the gears throw on the pedals throw on the saddle leave the brakes and then we can ride true from Park Tool sent me a universal bleed kit it's good that Park finally released a bleed kit because I think a lot of people have been asking for that that works nice I like having a clear funnel because look you hit the lever and you get the bubbles out you can see them come up through there once you're done doing what you're doing you put the little plunger in there and then you can take this out and put all the remaining fluid right back into the container from whence it came okay brakes feel dials seat filed if I'm not mistaken I think this bike is ready to ride so this is the same hardtail as I had before but it's got a number of different parts on it and it actually feels a lot different for instance the stem is shorter the bars are five millimeters wider which isn't much and then the handlebars themselves have a slightly different shape to them they have a slightly different sweep and rise in the old one so shifting obviously feels different it's taking me a little bit of time to get used to ceramics like you press the slightest bit and it shifts it's very very light there's a different fork on it and the Fox 34 Fox in general just feels different than the MRP Forks for the last month I've written nothing but my full suspension bike so the back end feels super light and everything just feels super snappy I'm a little bit nervous about hitting the whale tip i have not hit the whale tail yet on my heart ale i'm excited to see how it feels now one thing about the whale tail that's good is it's a relatively safe feature because you jump off of this setup jump you land on it now if you catch this transition perfectly you are perfectly set up with the perfect amount of speed for the double that comes after it if you don't hit it perfectly you actually have time to stop you can just lay on your brakes and you can stop before you go off the jump on times where I'm going on this and didn't feel dialed I've always been able to stop I'm gonna give it a try I'm gonna drop in and see how it feels I knew I would make it I didn't come in with quite enough speed on the heart ale generally you don't need as much speed for stuff I tried to do without a crank I'm gonna take one crank before the jump you found us when you get off a full suspension onto a hardtail when your rear end comes down it's like cooking when you ride a full suspension a lot you get complacent and you stop trying to compensate for those impacts that didn't feel smooth is I know I could make it so I'm gonna go back off all right buddy you're gonna get run over so it took me a couple of tries to dial it in on the whale tail but at the end of the day it's easier on a heart a little ways is so while we were putting this all together I was in a rush we were trying to beat the Sun and now that we're out here I'm thinking more clearly this twist in the freaking heat-shrink tubing is driving me out of my mind every time I look at it and I just figured out it's a very simple solution so I'm going to fix it right now on the trail with my one-up EDC so we'll get this out now we have a multi-tool we can take the lever off the EDC tool is not the easiest most ergonomic tool in the world to use but it's always with you and the multi-tool you have is the best multi-tool in the world so what we're gonna do to fix it we're gonna flip the brake cable to the bottom we're gonna move this around then we're gonna put it right there and everything's perfect I amaze even myself at how much my brain can just stop working going for a ride makes you feel awesome now it's just simple so I hope you enjoyed this video even though we built the same hard tail again it's actually kind of different each time I get to try different parts it probably looked like a breeze but actually we started a little late so we were rushing things like the twist setup heat shrink tubing really just threw me for a loop so I'm glad we got that figured out but we got in a ride bike felt amazing I'm super pumped because I just hit the whale tail on the HAR tail which I haven't been able to do before I'm really glad that you guys got to share it with me if you enjoyed this video subscribe to burn Peak Express and thanks for riding with me today I'll see you next time [Music]

Channel: Berm Peak Express

Views: 3,051,530

Keywords: Hardtail, seths bike hacks, berm peak express, diamondback, carbon syncr, bike build, mountain bike build, mountain bike repair, bike repair, tools, workshop, garage, outdoors, mountain biking, cycling.

Id: v4Dtvf56xRI

Length: 15min 39sec (939 seconds)

Published: Sun Apr 19 2020