BigTreeTech SKR v1.4 Mainboard - Full Install Part 2 - 2209 Drivers - Chris's Basement

we're back with part two of the SKR 1.4 mainboard install with TMC 2209 stepper drivers this is part 2 of everything you need to know about setting up your big tree tech SKR 1.4 mainboard with TMC 22:09 s using sensorless homing and we're not going to waste any time in this video we're gonna jump right back into the configuration where we left off we were almost done setting up our filament sensor there's only a few more things to do there and then we can move on with the rest of the config so let's jump right back into Marlin other options on the filament run out sensor you can either enable a pull-up or pulldown resistor depending on the sensor you use you might need one by default usually the pull-up is on that usually works for a lot of the sensors that I use but if you have a different configuration different type of sensor you can also use this pull down option just comment out or take the comment off whichever one you need and then we have the filament run out script by default it's set to M 600 in 600 is just a script that moves your head to a certain location so that you can swap out the filament when it runs out most of the time M 600 works just fine for what we need it to do but you can customize that if you'd like to you can run whatever you want right here when the filament run out sensor hits and then we come to bed leveling there's a lot of different kinds of bed leveling on this machine I use bilinear so I'm just going to uncomment Auto bed leveling bilinear restore leveling after G 28 G 28 usually clears out your leveling map if you don't want it to do that you can uncomment this I level the bed every time before I print so I leave this commented out most of the leveling features I leave default on the mark 42 bed it only has nine points so I do three in the X and that defaults to 3 in the Y you can see that down here so that's a total of 9 points you can make this as many as you'd like I wouldn't suggest going much over 10 that might get a little confusing when you set on a bed leveling now it's going to assume your bed size and a nine-point grid when you set it to 3 just evenly spaced across the bed I had to hit certain points you've heard me say this a million times probably this has been moved to compete Eurasian underscore advd H so we'll have to set those points over there so if you need to go to certain spots on the bed to level you'll have to adjust those in that file we'll get to that Z safe homing is want to get a lot of questions about by default if you're using a Z probe it's going to assume they are gonna home in the front left corner on an i3 Cartesian machine so it's gonna try to probe right there if you can't get to the bed with your probe in that location you can uncomment out Z safe homing by default that will allow you to probe in the center of the bed I do use Z safe homing so I'm gonna come comment this I don't probe in the center i probe on that first spot that's in the front left corner of the bed but it isn't at 0 0 X Y so I just changed these up that spot is actually at 31 in the X and 9 in the Y remember all of these locations this isn't assuming the probes location this is assuming the nozzle location so if you're trying to figure this out with a ruler go by where the nozzles at not where the probe is you can also set the feed rate for homing the slower you go probably the more accurate it's going to be just gonna leave these default bed's Q compensation I do have a video on this it hasn't changed a whole lot you could set this up if you'd like we're not going to set it up in this video eeep rum I do turn these on so we're going to uncomment define EEPROM settings this just allows you to make some quick settings that get saved from power off to power on but you can overwrite them if you need to you don't have to come in here and flash firmware you can just set it an EEPROM so it is handy to have but it can also be a little bit confusing at times so if you're having issues you don't know what's going on go check a prom make sure there's nothing strange in there filament temperature settings we can go and update these by default on PLA I run 215 with a bed temp of 60 abs by default I run 255 bed temp of 100 you can also set a default fan speed if you want it to come on I just leave mine at 0 nozzle Park you will have to have nozzle park if you have filament run out because it needs to know where to put that nozzle when it does something like that so will uncomment nozzle park you can adjust where it parks at I actually like the flip-flop these I like it to park in the front right corner so I want to do smacks -10 and why men positive 10 and the z-position of 20 should be okay but that will put it in the front right corner rather than in the back left corner I just like it better that way on an i3 machine you can also set the feed rates when it goes to park if you'd like the clean nozzle feature most of the time when you see clean nozzle that's usually done inside the slicer with some tricky g code but you can do the same thing here it will attempt to wipe the nozzle on some sort of brush or strip to get it clean before you probe or before you start a print we're not going to set that up today now we're coming down to the LCD screen an SD card section this is going to depend on what kind of screen you have and if you have an SD card reader or not I'm gonna leave my LCD language to English I'm going to uncomment SD support this will allow us to access the SD card on the screen you can set the SPI speed when you're accessing that card you can enable some more error checking if you'd like you can even change up what type of venues you want to see no LCD menus or you can slim them down that will save you a little bit of memory if you'd like I'm just going to go with defaults encoder settings if the wheel you're using isn't operated correctly or you need to change it up you can change the pulses per step here and if it's kind of flaky you can change up the encoder steps per menu item like if you're turning it and you only turn it one and it goes to you might have to adjust it in here again default should be okay encoder Direction this is one that I have changed many times depending on how you like the menus to go if you want to turn the wheel to the right when you move up or down this is how you flip-flop it if it doesn't seem normal to you you can change these up in here this will change the values for that encoder for the whole screen every option if you just want to change the navigation portion you can use this setting down here there's all kinds of different menus you can enable like individual access homing if you want that on your screen you can enable your speaker I usually do just in case I have some sort of alert that I'd like to play when I'm swapping filament or something like that your default 2004 screen is this option right here riprap discount smart controller I'm not actually using that I am using the big tree tech emulated full graphic screen so I'm going to leave this commented out I'm gonna scroll down and I'm going to enable riprap discount full graphic smart controller that'll allow me to use that emulation option of this screen if you have a serial touchscreen like this without the emulator it really doesn't matter what you set your LCD to because it's gonna ignore that anyway it's just sending commands over the serial it's not an actual screen so I should be good for this printer but there are tons of different screen options out here in Marlin now depending on which one you'd like to use and we've made it all the way to the bottom we do have some servo settings and some LED settings I don't have any of that for this build but there's all kinds of different things you can do here in configuration H so now let's jump to configuration underscore ATV dot H there's not a ton of stuff it out here that we need to set but there are a handful of things so let's scroll on through I will mention the settings on thermal runaway if you're getting false positives you might need to make some changes in here don't get crazy with how many seconds you allow it to scan or how many degrees because you do want to stay safe but sometimes these can be just a little bit aggressive these settings affect the hot end temperature as a whole and then you have watch temp period down here this is when you're using G code commands to increase the temperature that's how it's going to watch for them read both of these notes carefully when you're altering these if you need to my mark 42 bed at 12 volt it does tend to trigger occasionally when the part fan comes on so I do increase it a bit so what this is saying is it's waiting for the bed to increase 2 degrees in 20 seconds or it's going to throw an error mine doesn't actually heat that quickly so I jump mine up to 90 seconds so if it doesn't see a 2 degree change in 90 seconds it'll air out that's more than enough time for the bed I get those questions about this a lot about false triggering so this is how you would adjust it if you needed to moving on the auto fan pen settings this is one of my favorite settings that I like to set because this will allow you to control PWM pins based on thermistor temperature so I don't want my hot and fan to run all the time I only want it to run when the hot end is heating up so here we can just use the same method we can go check the back of the board here we did use the second extruder heater pins for this that's this one right here and that is pin 2.4 but you can just change this right here to P to underscore 0 4 you can set the temperature that it kicks on the speed that it kicks on I'm good with 50 C I'm good with full blast those should be good settings that's a really nice feature you don't have to listen to that fan run all the time and I'm just gonna kind of hit the highlights on the rest of the advanced file there are a few things we have to change you can control case lights if you'd like there's some code in here for external loop controllers that's a completely different subject altogether my default Marlin will allow you to use 2 X or 2 Y steppers complete with their own separate driver this is how you'd set those up here's where you can set up 2 z motors using two stepper drivers you can use that if you'd like you could use a one for instance dual carriage settings we don't need all that we do have to adjust home bump when you're using centralist homing for X&Y it doesn't like home bump home bump is when you hit the end stop you come back a certain distance and then you hit it again to check to make sure that n stop is hit correctly since this homing doesn't like this so we're gonna set home but 4 X 2 0 ho bump y 0 moving on for some reason if you would like to home Y before X you could do that here some information for the BL touch there are several different meal touch types now you might want to go through here if you're having be able touch problems backlash composition this is a rather new feature in Marlin this will try to help you compensate for backlash as you're changing directions backlash on a gear or a belt if you're seeing something on your part that might look like you're suffering from that you can come in here and try to configure this and compensate for it I have never done it but maybe we'll do that in the future here's where you can use things like digit pots or PWM motor current controls like if you have a rambo mini you can enable these and then you'll be able to set the current with a couple of g code commands or just set it permanently in here in Marlin we're going to use the 22:09 interface so we don't need this you have some additional LCD features down here your LED can trol menus you can adjust more advanced features of how the things on the LCD screens are displayed power loss recovery can be set up here I'm not gonna set that up today you can change up how the SD card sorts its files here's the setting you might be interested in if you would like to store your G code files on the SD card that has the firmware on it the one you use to load the firmware on your board you can switch that up here by default on most boards you're gonna pull from the LCD screen the card that's running on it and that's what we're gonna do but if you would like to switch over to that onboard card you uncomment this line and switch it over to on board we're just going to use the default card that's on the LCD screen so we'll leave this commented out but if that's what you want to do that's where you enable it and then we come down to the next feature that we need to enable and that's baby stepping we're just gonna uncomment this line I like to have this on all my printers just in case I need to adjust that first layer height on-the-fly we can leave most of this default but if you'd like a little more granular setting you can reduce this number here I like to enable double click for baby stepping that means you can hit your LCD knob twice and it'll go right into baby stepping that's only when you're printing remember that if you'd like to make it always available even when you're not printing you can uncomment this line and I like to make the baby steppin value adjust my z probe offset so we're going to uncomment this line that Z probe offset that we set in the configuration H file this is going to allow you to just that on the fly if it's not quite right that way you don't have to go through this lengthy calibration process when you're installing a probe you can just adjust on the fly record that number and go from there so we should be good with baby stepping linear advanced I have a whole video on this if you'd like to enable it I'm not going to enable it in this video right here is where you can adjust all the probe points that your probe can reach I have to do this on this printer because I have the mark 42 bed that has specific spots so I'm gonna uncomment each one of these lines and I'm gonna set a numbered value to the spot that I need to hit remember this is where the nozzle is not where the probe is my minimum probe edge left I'm going to set that to a 31 so from the left edge I'm 31 millimeters in minimum probe edge right from the right edge I'm 15 millimeters in minimum probe edge front from the front edge I'm 9 millimeters in and minimum probe edge back from the back edge of the bed I'm four millimeters in that'll get me to all the specific spots that I need to hit while probing the bed it's changed up a little bit from when it moved from configuration H to configuration underscored 80 V dot H I do go over this in my ABL video arch support we are now on a 32-bit board so we don't have to worry about memory so much but if you wanted to save some memory like if you're on an 8-bit bored you can uncomment that line and save quite a bit currently in the slices that I use we don't use g2 or g3 commands so that wouldn't be any value to us anyway but I'll leave it for now firmware I retract that's where you can set the firmware to do your retraction and then you can set it with G code commands instead of having you to do it your slicer this is a pretty interesting setting I haven't tested it yet but it could be handy and have its advantages down the road so we might look into that later your advanced pause feature it's gonna be commented out by default but if you have a filament sensor and you need to run that m600 script when your filament runs out you're gonna have to have this so we're just going to uncomment this line and this is going to set what it does when it unloads filament so when you do the change what it does when it pauses and purge if you need to change any of the links you can do that all in here for the most part for a direct-drive machine like blog this is going to be just fine after we do a couple of filament changes if something doesn't act quite right I can come in here change it up just a little bit and now we get to the TMC section of configuration underscore a tbh the first part is for 2600 series we don't have those that's like what's on a duet board and then we have the generic hash try Namek settings this is going to cover most of the TMC drivers you can see it's highlighted all the drivers that we have we set these in configuration dot h these are all the different hard-coded settings for those drivers microstepping current our cents value we're just going to leave all these default they should be just fine for 2:09 if you start to see some shift layers of some skipping you might want to come in here and up the V ref a little bit the current of the driver is going to have you can also do that with commands from the terminal and save them an EEPROM you can reset your default SPI pins if you have designated Hardware pins on the board you can then change them up in the software so you can use pretty much any pin that's pretty handy to have but mostly on the 20 130 or the 5000 series driver I am going to use stealth chop for all four of my drivers that's the quietest mode I don't have any issues with that on a 2209 if you're going to use spread cycle that's the little higher power mode there quite a bit louder but you can change the chopper timing by setting the voltage and it helps with the whistle noise just a little bit I've got 12 volt even if I was gonna use spread cycle I'd leave it here but here's all the different options that you can run the Matt monitor driver status I do like to uncomment this line because that way I can use these commands up here 9 2 6 9 11 9 12 1 2 2 2 monitor what the drivers doing if I'm having issues hybrid threshold I'm gonna leave this turned off but this is so you can go from Stealth chop to spread cycle based on demand if you're starting to struggle a bit it should get you up into spread cycle and then put it back down into the stealth shop in the quiet mode when it sees fit so if you're interested in that you can configure it right here and then we come to central this homing we're just gonna uncomment this line this will enable central assuming we have our board set up for it already you do have the option to central this probe I haven't tested that yet but I will in the future stall sensitivity if you're using a 2209 your range is going to be from 0 to 255 if you're using a 2130 it's negative 64 to 63 for our 22:09 the lower the number the less sensitive it is the higher number the more sensitive it is 8 is usually too low but we'll set this on the command line it's just easier that way I think so we'll leave it at 8 and we'll use our commands to set it later and also I'm going to uncomment TMC debug so in case we do need some more information we can get it this will even allow continuous reporting if we want to turn it on and the terminal and then down below you have driver options for L 64 type drivers further down you have spindle and laser control features filament width sensor features some more CNC features all kinds of good stuff here in configuration underscore ADB dot H you can even add a joystick to control your printer which sounds like a lot of fun and we might do someday but for now I think we're good on our configuration so I'm ready to build so we're going to go over here to the platform i/o icon we're gonna select the environment that we're in it's going to look like this by default but if you scroll down you're gonna find your processor chip we're on that LPC 1769 and I'm just gonna hit build down here you can watch for errors if anything pops up we might have got it wrong in the code but hopefully it builds clean and the build was successful you can scroll up down here in the terminal window you can see right here we built for LPC 1769 because we're using the turbo board and we had success and it ran for about a minute now to load this firmware on your sk r board i highly suggest the first time out you just use the SD card so take the SD card out of your printer off your sk our board and load it onto your computer and you'll probably have an explorer window pop up as soon as you mount that SD card here's your firmware dot current file when you load your firmware by putting that firmware dot bin file on your SD card then you turn your printer on it's gonna take that existing bin file load it on the board and then rename it to the dot CU our file so if there is a new bin file on here it's going to do the same thing and turn that new bin file into your current file so just for reference if you wanted to rename this file to dot bin you could use it on another machine or reload it if you think you'd need to so every time you compile it's going to build a firmware bin file out here in vs code and the easiest way to find that is to head back to your Explorer and in your current project directory you're gonna have a Pio expand that expand build and then the processor or board name that you're working with this case it's the OPC 1769 and right here is your most current firmware bin file from our last compile and you can just right click on it and reveal and file explorer' there's the file we need let's just right click copy and we'll paste it on our SD card make sure you don't change the name at all and there's really no need to clean up that firmware dot Cu our file it's going to do that for you now you can take the SD card out of your computer you can eject it down here if you'd like and then we'll load it on our SK our board the SD card has been loaded will power on we have Marlin 2o 5.3 so that's good and we've got our log SK our message so we know we have the most current firmware loaded when we power the printer back on the file explorer popped up because I have this plugged in USB and you can load the firmware USB on these SKR boards but if your Marlin configuration isn't just right it won't let you do that you have to have the serial settings set correctly and I showed you that in the previous video so that's why I'm recommending you do it with the SD card the first time and then after that if you need to make tweaks you can do it right here in BS code so since we're plugged in USB it should know the drive letter that we're going to use for our printer you shouldn't have to update anything in vs code you can just come back over to platform i/o since we've already built and haven't made changes you can just hit upload we successfully uploaded to the printer via USB you can see it called it disk H because that's the drive that it found the SKR board to be and now all you have to do is repower cycle the printer to load that update both the USB and SD card versions of loading the firmware are going to work exactly the same way now let's test the printer and make sure everything's working correctly so I'm going to use pronterface that's just my preferred terminal there are a few others out there if you'd like to use those let me hit connect we are now connected to our printer on Comm 5 at baud rate 11 5 200 will this start with some basic movements to make sure we have the motor Direction set correctly let's try to go right on the X that looks correct let's try to go back on Y that looks correct let's try to go up on z and that looks correct now let's go ahead and heat up the hot end and the bed on the hot inside I want to make sure that fan pin configuration we did is going to work that fan should come on as soon as it hits 50 degrees the fan has come on successfully so we know we have that setting correct and both the hot in and the bed are heating successfully so we'll just wait for them to come up to temp we're up to temp let's go ahead and do a test extrude to make sure our extruder motor is turning the right direction I'll just do 25 millimeters I'm starting to see filament come out so that looks good as well let's do an m1 1 9 to check our current n stop status as well as our filament sensor status our filament sensor is currently triggered that means the filament is present on my machine when it goes open that's when it initiates the m600 cycle so let's back our filament out to make sure that filament sensor is going to go open when the filament isn't present the filament is out let's do m1 1:9 again and now our filament sensor right here is open so our filament sensor is working correctly so the next thing we need to worry about is centralist homing if you do an m5 o3 that's going to display a lot of the EEPROM information that's currently loaded on that printer board these do have a simulated EEPROM but it should work the same as your regular Arduino boards it's always a good idea when you load firmware to reload EEPROM so we'll do m5 o2 to bring in all the firmware settings into EEPROM and then we'll do an M 500 to save it again you can take another look with M 503 we are concerned with this m9 one for command if you run the m9 one for command it's going to show your homing sensitivity for senseless homing now I know for a fact that the default setting of 8 is too low for this machine but you're gonna have to play with this a bit depending on the printer you have you might have a different sensitivity for X or Y and let me just show you what it's going to do if you have your sensitivity set to low it's gonna crash into the in stop so we'll just go ahead and do home all and you can see our Y crashed and since this homing didn't halt it but the Z did home correctly so at least we know the probes working so we definitely need to increase that sensitivity a bit X did home somewhat successfully but I still think that that isn't quite sensitive enough so we're gonna do m91 for let's change X to 20 and let's set Y to 40 you can do an M 500 to save that knee from and let's just home all again and maybe things will be just a little bit quieter this time so X still isn't sensitive enough it halted the printer so we'll reset and we'll connect back up X did work the first time but there might have been something in a prom messing that up so let's go ahead and do em 9 1 4 X 60 to increase that sensitivity and y 60 we'll send that and 500 to save it let's try that home one more time when I said it says 60 on the X X was still crashing so I actually bumped it up to 80 and now we're home incorrectly there really is no science to the stall guard central is homing setting you just kind of have to play with it until you get it right so I'm happy with the sense of this homing setting at 80 and 60 let's go ahead and do a g28 to home and I'm gonna do a g29 to make sure my auto bed leveling sensor points are correct our bed leveling looks good you will have to adjust your Z probe offset I won't go into that in this video but I do have an ABL video I'll leave the link to that in the corner so since I don't have any filament in here right now I'm gonna go to change filament I'm gonna preheat for PLA our nozzle is up to temp it's doing the unload sequence even though I don't have any in there that's fine now it's going to tell us to insert our filament we can press the button it'll start pulling it in if you need to adjust the unload and load links for this you can use the M 603 command it's pretty self-explanatory I'm gonna let it purge just a little bit more and I'm good the filaments coming out someone hit continue our filament change is complete now pretty much all we have to do is start a print well let's print from media of course you will have to adjust your slicer settings a bit if you're going to use Auto leveling or something like that but again that's in the abl video and we'll hit print and while you're printing you can double click your encoder wheel and that's gonna bring up baby stepping and the way we have it set up is to adjust the Z probe offset so if you need to tweak your first layer of it you can just do it right here mine looks like it's a little bit too squished so I'm gonna roll mine down in the firmware I had mine set 2.4 I'm much happier right now with how the printers configured at a point 0 5 first layer looks good after you get your Z offset set how you want it you can go to the terminal and do an M 500 to save it nee prom or you can go into the menu go to configuration scroll all the way to the bottom and hit store setting that's just like running in M 500 commands and now that probe offset will be set next time you'd like to do a print and we are up and running on our SKR 1.4 mainboard and there it is hopefully everything you need to know about your big tree tech SKR 1.4 mainboard install with your TMC 22 of 9 stepper drivers using sensorless homing on your x and y axis now I appreciate anyone that went through both of these parts with me I know there was a lot of information in here and they were fairly long but hopefully this helps a lot of others out in the future with their installs hopefully found this series helpful if you did please consider giving it a thumbs up or subscribe to my channel if not leave your thoughts in the comments below and as always thanks for watching

Channel: Chris Riley

Views: 76,886

Keywords: 3D, printer, Printing, 3D Printing, 3D Printer, ChrisBasement, ChrissBasement, Chris'sBasement, Chris Basement, Chriss Basement, Chris's Basement, ChrisRiley, Chris Riley, benchy, 3dbenchy, 3d

Id: j2FL_mY_LsY

Length: 28min 14sec (1694 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 22 2020