3D Printer Fix Up - Geeetech Pro B - Part 3 - Chris's Basement

today we continue our 3d printer fix up with part three [Music] hello everyone chris here i hope you're all well and yes we're continuing on our mission to get my original 3d printer kit the gtech pro b printing as good as a lot of the budget printers we have nowadays here in 2020 now we did switch out some parts in the last video we upgraded some of the motors but now we need to update the firmware to match some of the changes we've already made and just to get it updated in general i believe the version that's running on this one right now is 1.1.1 of marlin so we've come a long way and that's going to help us out on this build greatly plus i also have some safety concerns around the mains voltage and the power supply all together so i want to address that get some things rewired and just continue to make this whole machine even better so let's not waste any time let's jump right into vs code and get to creating a config we can use on this machine as with any marlin build i highly recommend you go out to marlinfw.org and you grab the latest version because you're probably going to have the easiest time setting that up with the least amount of bugs so we'll go to download we are currently on 2072 i'll just hit download and while that's downloading we're going to head to the marlin github and on the main page we'll click in config and then we're going to go to this link and it's going to download all the example configurations with a printer like the gtech pro b it's been around a while i have no doubt that there's already a solid config out here for it so we don't want to reinvent the wheel anywhere we can save some time so we're just going to use this config and then alter it as we see fit so we'll go ahead and download this zip now we'll head to downloads we can go ahead and extract all on our configurations and we will also extract all on our marlin folder and i just like to complete it with the version that we're on 7.2 and we'll extract so you've seen me do this a lot before but that marlin folder that's inside our marlin folder that's just what it does when it extracts it we're going to rename that to something so we know what it is so again i just like to use the version so 207.2 and then the printer name we'll just call it pro b now we'll head back to downloads and check out that configuration file we extracted and we'll head into configs and this should all be listed in examples by vendor so we'll head to gtech and we have prusa i3 pro b right down here and it looks like they have a config for no probe at all and for bl touch so we don't even have to do that part we're going to take the bl touch version and we'll just copy this configuration.h file right click copy head back to downloads our extracted 2072 folder go into pro b then into marlin and we'll paste our configuration right here and we'll tell it to replace the file now we already have our configuration file that will fit our g-tech that somebody else has already helped us out with so now we'll go to vs code and we have an empty workspace so we'll just hit add folder make sure you're on file explorer up here if you need to know how to set up vs code there is a link in the description we'll head to downloads into our 272 folder and we're going to add our pro b folder remember add the folder that contains the marlin folder you know you've added the right one because it'll start building and you'll have a pio folder up here that means platform i o is laying all the groundwork so let's expand marlin and we'll open up configuration.h now again most of this we shouldn't have to tweak it should already be done for us they've even added the bl touch but let's just scan through and make sure everything's set correctly so serial port we do want it to set to zero because this is an 8-bit board that's the most common setting for those 250 000 baud rate is good we do have the revision a plus board there is a revision a and a plus we have the newer one the biggest add to this board is a port for your servo for your bl touch just be aware that there are two different boards the easy way to tell is to find those pins or the older board has the green power and extruder connectors the newer board has the blue ones i'm okay with custom name i3 pro b that's okay thermistors are both set to one that is correct for these printers that issues the regular 100k max temp on these i'm going to set it pretty low because it does have a ptfe lined hot end we're going to go 255 for max and on the bed i'll never get over 100 i would imagine but let's set it's a 110 the power supply on this isn't very big i don't want it to have to draw any more than it has to pid settings it's probably just fine but we're going to run an auto tune just in case we're going to leave all the drivers stock for now we do just have the old school a4988s that's what it defaults to even if you don't uncomment those by the way now they've done some tricky stuff with the motion settings down here they have an if statement i guess there is a version that has four start lead screws because that's the setting you would want to set they've also reduced these counts to 7874 i don't know what calibration they used default they would be 80. we'll take their lead on this one i think the extruder e steps is probably a little high as well but we'll do a calibration we'll check the print with our calipers just to see if it makes any difference the biggest change was that 400 for these four start lead screws so we're good there max feed rates for this machine i think that's probably a little high but most of the time this is all set in the slicer anyway same way with acceleration that's probably a little too high for this machine we'll tune all that in we are gonna go with junction deviation they have set it to zero four default is zero three so not too far off now their z probe setting is a little bit interesting because i have always used my z min pins that's how i have it hooked up on my board right now they are using a pin 32 now i don't know if they wanted to use their z and stop switch as well we might play around with that configuration later but i intend to use the safe homing in the middle with a pro for now so i'm going to go with my gut and comment this one out and i'm going to uncomment z min probe uses z min and stop pin and you can confirm that in the pins file if you'd like come over here to source pins this is a 2560 so i'm guessing it's under mega and here's the board we're using gt2516 rev a plus and remember these are sometimes just breadcrumb trails so they have included the pins for the rev a so we're going to rev a your z min pin which is the one we're using is set to 30. so that should be okay but then if you saw in that rev a plus version they have a servo pin for 32. when you enable bl touch it goes the default servo zero so telling it pin 32 probably makes it not work so remember back in configuration.h right here if you tell it a pro pin that's the trigger pin not the servo pen so we're going to go with z min pin i think that'll work just fine and then down here you should have bltouch uncommented that will know to use servo 0 which is pin 32 moving on we will need to update our probe offset because our mount is just a little bit different you can see on rbl touch mount we're actually just a little bit right of the nozzle and a whole lot in front of the nozzle so we'll just measure that with a ruler and then we can punch in our values so we're about 44 millimeters in front and about two millimeters to the right so they got it really close if you're in the front on the y that's going to be a negative value so they do have 44 in there and if you're to the right that's positive they have four so i'm gonna take mine down to three i think it's a little less than that but that would have been close enough no big deal and i'm going to set my offset for now for the z to zero so i can dial it in i don't have to worry about it crashing so we should be good there they've set multiple probes to three that's pretty good if you want it to be super accurate if you wanted to go faster i'm just to set mine to 2 for now bed size this is a 200 200 and we do have some minimum values and those are when your nozzle is outside of the bed before you start printing and it's kind of hard to judge from the camera view but we are quite a bit left of the bed and just a little bit in front so those values are probably good if we're not printing on the center of the bed we're not making it there those are the values we need to adjust and then 200 for the z that's probably a good mark bed leveling we will leave it by linear they have set the grid to four for this video i'm just gonna go three just so it's a little faster while we're working with it you might wanna consider higher values if your bed isn't all that level glass it shouldn't be that big of a deal and then z safe home we are going to home in the center of the bed eprom settings we want to make sure those are enabled because we are going to save some settings in eprom our heat settings i like to start with pla at around 215 when i preheat fan to off and abs 240 is max we'll set to 100 i don't want the bed to go that high and the fan will be off nozzle park i'm going to go ahead and enable this because i want to use m600 that's filament change if i need to use it it'll be there i like it to park in the front right corner so i like to do x max minus 10 so 10 less than maximum and then y minimum plus 10. so it moves the bed out just a bit and then in z20 that means just wherever it is it will lift at 20 from there and then getting towards the end sd support we'll make sure that's on we can adjust the way the menus move if we need to we have to test that out you can turn the speaker on if you'd like i just want to make sure it says rip wrap discount smart controller because that's the 2004 display that we are using everything else in here should be good if you want to check on servo settings they are down here all the way at the bottom they are commented out the bltouch settings should take care of all that for us so let's open up configuration underscore adv.h they didn't give us one of these files for this printer but there's not a lot that i want to edit as of right now the first thing i want to do is kick on baby stepping this will allow us to adjust the z offset on the fly in case we don't get it quite right and with that i like to enable double click for baby stepping that way you can click the wheel twice to get the menu that's while printing and then down here below we're going to enable baby stepping z probe offset because we do have a z probe that way it's actually adjusting the offset and we can save it in the eprom later so we know what the offset is it's not just adjusting a few steps here and there we're actually recording that setting and we can change it with m851z you'll see that more when we get it leveled the next thing we come to it's right under baby stepping is linear advance i am going to go ahead and enable it we might not get it set up in this video but it is going to help print quality greatly and i'm going to leave the k value at 0 by default we will set the k value in our slicer when we get around to it but we'll enable it for now more to come on this and then the last thing we need is advanced pause feature it's also required if you want to use a filament run out sensor which we're not going to hook up right now but i do intend to do that in the future we can leave all these default we will have to adjust them this is direct drive extruder you can adjust how far it kicks it out things like that right here and i also want to enable this line so that we can use m701 and 702 from our screen if we want to that just gives us an unload and a load button those can be handy at times and since we don't have any smart drivers or anything like that at the moment we should be done we're ready to compile so i'm going to go to platform i o and we are going to use the 2560 environment right here and we're going to hit build and our build was successful and we have plenty of memory left to add other features as we go so now the easiest way to do this especially on an 8-bit board is to just cable up usb turn the printer on and hit upload over here most of the time your computer is going to know that it's a printer and it can upload to it now it's always been one of my least favorite things about this design is you have to go through all these wires to get your usb port it's down underneath but i think the changes that we're going to make here soon should help with that we are powered on we are cabled usb we are going to hit upload it is flashing the flash is complete so now let's just take it for a test drive real quick make sure everything is working as we expect it to now that we have our new firmware on you'll notice we came up with an e prom error that just means we have a newer version now and the stuff that's in eprom is old we're going to go ahead and allow it to reset that's always a good idea to do that anyway everything else on the screen looks just fine and let's just run some basic commands let's make sure we can home x good there home y good there let's go ahead and home all we move to the center of the bed for z safe homing that's a good sign and we did finally z home but it is super slow so we definitely want to put that on the list of things that we need to update but the sensor is pretty close to the center of the bed so a lot of those values should be correct so that's a good sign let's just make sure we can heat up for both real quick both are reading the right temperature and getting warmer we'll go ahead and shut off the bed now i just want the hot end to get up to temperature so i can make sure the extruder is turning the right way and i'll be satisfied with the initial upload and judging by my visualizer right there we should be all set turning in the right direction so now i think we're good to move on so now we're going to move from the firmware configuration for a bit and focus on some safety issues and some rewiring that needs to be done on this printer then we'll come back and tweak the firmware and make sure that it's going to print successfully so this has always been a concern of mine and i've been meaning to change it up forever but if you'll notice right here is where you plug the printer in and there's the switch where you turn the power on and please don't do any of this while the printer's plugged in but just that switch right there right above it that's mains voltage now it does have this transparent yellow cover on it but that's not good enough if you're reaching behind this printer looking for that switch it wouldn't be a very far stretch to get a hold of one of those lines and that's not going to make you real happy also the power wire for the use for the dc has always been just a little bit too long and you'll see more of that when we get over to the main board side we'll have a little bit longer discussion about that one but fortunately again this printer has been around a while so there's a lot of great parts out there for it including this cover it's over on thingiverse by j dobre it puts a cover over the bottom of the power supply moves the receptacle and the switch out you don't even have to use a new one and makes things a whole lot safer so that's what we're going to do now so i'm just going to remove it it has a couple of screws here in the back then we'll just pull off all our wires so we can rewire it and i probably said this before but this is 12 volt 15 amp this really isn't enough for a 3d printer at least shoot for 20. it does work and it's been working for years so i'm gonna go with it for now but if you're building one don't get one this small give yourself some room so now the dc wires on this printer now these are two sets of 18 gauge the board on this acts just like a ramps does you have a 5 amp and an 11 amp side they are both fused and they're separate so you're supplying one of each one is pretty much everything on the board at five amp the rest is for the bed now you can look around all over the internet at different ratings and charts but they're going to list occasionally 18 gauge wire at 20 amp now that's max right that's as much as you can load it before it starts to melt insulation and burn up i think that's a little high for 18 we do have them split up into two different sets here it's probably going to work but you definitely want to make these as short as you can don't hamstring yourself i mean an inch here or there doesn't really matter but you want them short and you want the connections to be nice and solid and we'll talk just a little bit more about that when we get to the other side on the board and as far as the ac wires go they're fine but let me just pull both of these out so i can show you them a little bit better they just have everything rigged up on this switch the switch is dividing both the neutral and the line but you really don't need all of this to fit it inside that housing we just need to get over to this receptacle so i'm going to cut mine down a bit and re-crimp these ends so the receptacle and the switch slide in nicely into the case just like this you can use the same screws that you had on your kit to fasten that down i'm going to go ahead and reuse the incoming side of the wire anytime you reuse a connector make sure they're nice and solid but this bottom one that's ground the blue wire will be neutral that's this one all over here on this side i'll show you here in a second right there and then the brown one is your line that goes on the other side just like that and if they've changed these up over the years you might see a white and black wire that's how it is here in the states black will be your line substitute it for brown white will be neutral substitute it for blue this shouldn't matter so much which one goes where as long as you keep them separate but i'm going to put the line on the bottom down here on these two and the neutral on the top so there's the line in the neutral coming into your switch and then hook up the ones that go to your psu neutral and then line and just a test fit of our power supply there should be more than enough clearance in there but i'm still going to go ahead and shorten these other ones up these guys here those are just way too long we've got our wires shortened up and our connectors on now we go ahead and put them back on the power supply most of these are going to have badging on them to tell you how to hook them up but most commonly you have line on the outside neutral in the middle and then ground on the inside and for the dc wires i am going to go ahead and use the stock ones but we're going to shorten them up on the other side the board side here in a moment so i'll go ahead and hook those up too for those you should have at least two commons side by side and then two voltage ones side by side most of the time you'll see three but not only smaller ones so just make sure both reds are on one side both black are on the other again they'll be badging up here to tell you which one's which now this cover to mount it on the power supply it has a spot right here where you can slide a nut into the plastic part i'm going to use a square nut because i think it'll fit a little bit better but you might be able to get away with a hex nut in there as well and then i'll just use an m 3 by 10 screw to snug it together and the cover's on now the cover just has that one screw to keep it all together but after you get it back on the printer there are mount holes down here for these that will make the whole thing really solid you shouldn't have to worry about it after you get the cover on make sure all those connections that we just did are tight once again and there should be no issues going forward it's going to be a lot safer now for the power supply i'm just going to use the stock locations to try to locate it somewhat correctly the stock holes aren't really straight anyway but then i'm just going to mark and drill a couple of holes for the ones for the case there's probably a better way to line that up but it shouldn't be too difficult and now it's installed so overall i'm pretty happy with it i was able to use the stock hole that was with the old plug the one on the right side for this one i did drill a new one in the acrylic for this guy down here again m3 by 16 millimeter screws nylock nuts came out pretty well the power supply i was able to use the two stock holes and the stock screws so this will be a huge safety improvement going forward pretty excited about that i don't like getting shocked now we're going to move to the board side we're going to deal with the power wires first and then we're going to use a case i'll get to that in a minute but these power wires at some point i had spliced on this molex connector because that's the connector that was on the board those are not the best connectors and there's way too much wire here so what we're going to do is we're going to replace the connector put a new molex connector on make this a lot shorter and the shorter it is the better off you are remember this is 18 gauge wire 18 gauge is the biggest that will fit in this type of connector that's on that board again we're kind of at the high end for those connectors you need to make sure all of your crimps are good and everything is seated properly so i'm just going to cut this one off and then we're going to crimp on a brand new connector with the proper pins to mate up with the board these are a specific size i'll leave a note in the description for which ones these are make sure when you splice your wire you've got enough to get down inside this pin after these two tabs but you also have some insulation to grip i just like to set the pins and the jaws my crimpers just like this and then slide the wire in and that is what a pretty solid crampon is going to look like you need about five six millimeters of wire spliced back but you want some of that insulation as well it takes a while to get the feel for this you only have to do four i really don't like doing it either but it is a much cleaner install my crimps are on and on the g-tech board on these plugs the top row is positive bottom row is negative doesn't matter which wire goes where just make sure you have the red on top black on bottom assuming the top has the clip on it and our plug is on good is new and it's a little bit shorter but should be a whole lot safer than the setup we had before now let's move to the board cover that i found this is a case i found over on thingiverse by lucky 80 lucas has done a great job on this it is somewhat adjustable just in case your board isn't quite the same size there's a couple of slots down in here and we should be able to do wire management out the bottom and the top and put most of it in this channel here this is really going to clean up the look of the printer but we pretty much have to redo everything to get it installed it also has this lid the lid you can use two 40 millimeter fans to cool down your board and drivers if you want to and i believe you can use four millimeter screws to connect it so i'm more than likely going to move that 140 millimeter fan that's on the acrylic to the top of this so now i'm just going to pull all the cables off the board it might be useful if you took a couple of pictures before you do this i'm pretty confident that i remember how it's wired up because i've worked on it so much but we'll get that done and once the wires are off these just set on those plastic feet like you see in a pc case the new cover will actually screw on to the acrylic here so i'm just going to remove those off those tabs and the board is loose now we can go ahead and try to test fit our cover and it looks like this cover was actually designed around the original gt2560 board and you can see one of those right here this is the first board i had on this printer it's actually just a little bit more narrow than the plus revision board i think we can make this case work but if you're going to print one of these maybe scale it up just a bit it's about two millimeters wider i was able to get it to fit with a little bit of rework but i will leave links in the description of cases that'll work for either board the old one or the newer one and one thing i've never really liked about this board is where the usb is it's kind of handy to have the power and the hot end power for the beds things like that down here at the bottom but not the usb the case does line up with that so you can get a cable in there but i still really don't like that design we can live with it just something i wanted to point out and after you get your board in there just make sure your case still fits should be no problem now this whole thing we're just going to put screws in from this side and use nylock nuts on the back screw the whole thing down to the acrylic first i am going to go ahead and remove this fan that's the one i'm going to try to reuse on the cover for whatever reason i use some really long screws on that but you can probably reuse those to put your cover on your acrylic and with that fan off to give us some clearance i'm just going to use four m3 by 20 millimeter screws and those nylock nuts i had on the fan to attach that cover it just goes through the four screw holes that are in the corners of the board our board and cover on and it's looking better already now we can start routing some of our wires our power wires came from the bottom this hole right here is just barely big enough for that connector to fit through but it does fit and then you can run it up and there's actually just a little niche cut out right here so they fit right into that socket so that went well and then over here on this hole we'll bring our bed wires in from the side now as i rerun a lot of these wires i'm going to make some changes i'm going to make some of these shorter i want my bed wires as short as i can get away with a little bit of slack doesn't hurt anything but the shorter they are maybe a little more efficient that bed's going to be we also need to build in some strain relief on this bed because these move a lot and you don't want the wires moving with them we want to be able to tie those down to something we'll tackle that in the next video but i'm going to shorten these up and then i'm going to use this sleeving rather than spiral wrap this is quarter inch i'll use that for the bed wires and then i'll use half inch to replace the spiral wrap on the extruder wires i'm also going to include my y end stop wires in there as well probably just zip tie it down here so it moves from this location and doesn't pull on those i'm also going to use ferrule connectors on the end of the bed wires and i'm going to replace the jst connectors as i shorten up those wires and on both the bed and the hot end looms i'm going to run a piece of three millimeter nylon filament so that it is a little bit more rigid as it's moving it just gives it a little more natural arc so it doesn't lay down on the frame or get hooked on something and here's a better look at the bed wires after i cleaned them up also for some strain relief around the back i just drilled a hole in the acrylic and zip tied it down right here that gives it enough room to move but also gets the relief off the wires a bit we also need some on the bedside but again we will address that later now we need to work on the extruder wire management and i've never really liked this design if you go all the way to the top of the z the motor is actually in front of the acrylic so you can't run the wires in between there they'd get pinched and there's not enough length to run them over and that doesn't make a lot of sense so your best bet is actually to run them below the belt and above this smooth rod now it might rub a little bit but we're going to have a sleeve around it so it shouldn't matter too much it should work out okay i will probably have to make some of these shorter maybe some of them longer that's not that big of a deal but i will have to redo some of the connectors so be aware of that if you're going to do something like this i'm also going to use some nylon for this one to give it some support and there's really no strain relief here so what i've done is i've removed the bottom two screws on this motor and i've created this part that will fit in those holes that way i can zip tie that loom once i get it in that sleeve to the back of this that'll also keep it out of the way for when you're going all the way to this side of the printer and i'm replacing these screws with some m3 by 40 screws that'll be long enough to get through this strain relief and into the other side of the motor so i'm going to work on that but also i'm going to remove this extruder for a second because i want to show you what i did about the part fan mount now in the last video we installed this part fan duct and it was designed just to have the fan set on here it was just a press fit but that really doesn't secure the fan very well so i came up with a mount that should help out a lot and that's this part right here it will hook on to the screw holes on that 5015 fan and then this one can mount on one of the existing screws but that screw has to be just a little bit longer so from the front side i swapped this screw out it holds the belt mount on the heart with the teeth i swapped this one with an m3 by 25 millimeter screw and then i used the extra thread on the back to hold my mount on so with that longer screw i can just slip the mount on i can use an m3 nut on the end of that screw to hold it in place and then you can slide your fan back on and then use some m3 by 30 millimeter screws to secure the fan onto the mount with some nyloc nuts and that should make that whole assembly much more stable now we can go ahead and put our extruder back on and continue to work on our wire management so we're doing pretty good with the extruder carriage the hot end and the fans i also rerouted the x motor and the end stop i've made a lot of these shorter and replaced a lot of the plugs i just want to get it as neat as possible i know it might not seem like much watching the video but this actually takes a ton of time to redo but i want to do it just this last time and be done with it so you still got the z motors and the y motors to reroute i'll have to shorten these up this case probably needs one more entrance added i can probably get one of the motors in here where the power comes in but this port over here is for the lcd cables i'll probably route my z motors through there but i have more than enough length on all those wires to get them where they need to go so we're in pretty good shape here i've got all the wires put back on everything fits nicely in the box it does bulge a little bit but the cover will take care of that now the cover does have two fan holes on it that we can use 40 millimeter fans and we do have an extra fan now because it had one on the acrylic right here so i'm just going to put that fan on the outside here with some m3 by 16 millimeter screws and then there's extra always on fan pins up here on this board those are constant 12 volt it might be a little noisy but that's exactly how it was hooked up before so that's just what i'm gonna do i just pull the fan wires through so they'll go through the case the motor wires and things we ran down here the y motor and then i got the two z's through here that is a little tight in here you might have a hard time getting all that back out hopefully we don't have to worry about that for a while but you'd probably have to pull that power plug first to get the rest to come back through again i think it could use one more opening but i'm pretty satisfied with it overall our fans on and then we can just put the cover on these are m4 threads i'm going to use some m4 by 16. with all that set there is one more thing i'd like to tackle and that is this strip light that i have on the gantry of this printer this is really handy but i haven't had it hooked up in a long while now i have it kind of running past down here i should probably cut that a bit i was going to try to power it with one of the pins on the board but i think the draw on these is actually just a little bit too high for a regular set of pins so this is a 12 volt strip i'm just going to solder some wires on the end of this poke a hole in the side of my power cover over here and hook them directly to the power supply that's probably the safest way to do it now they will be on when the printer's on all the time but we can live with that for now we got it plugged in we'll hit the switch lights came on bltouch cycled all the fans are running marlin is booting everything's looking good now again we have a lot more stuff to do inside the firmware to get things tweaked and i want to rework this bed a bit but i think i'm going to save all that for the next video we've done a lot here it didn't improve the print quality but it's going to make it a lot more consistent going forward and it's just a lot cleaner look the biggest thing today was that marlin upgrade so i think that's where we're going to leave the 3d printer fix up for today and i don't want you to feel like i left you hanging on this one because we didn't make a lot of modifications that are going to improve print quality but we did improve aesthetics and safety greatly and that marlin firmware update is going to be crucial as we move forward because there's going to be a lot of features that we want to use in the next one we'll tackle some things that i want to improve with the bed as well as wire restraint and just general updates finally maybe we'll get that lcd hooked onto the printer so that's it for today i hope you like this one and i'll see you really soon on the next one

Channel: Chris Riley

Views: 9,043

Keywords: 3D, printer, Printing, 3D Printing, 3D Printer, ChrisBasement, ChrissBasement, Chris'sBasement, Chris Basement, Chriss Basement, Chris's Basement, ChrisRiley, Chris Riley, benchy, 3dbenchy, 3d, geeetech, pr0b, prob, pro b, upgrade, bltouch, gtech, 3D Printer Fix Up - Geeetech Pro B - Part 2 - Chris's Basement, 3D Printer Fix Up - Geeetech Pro B - Part 3- Chris's Basement

Id: gn_5QKPj31E

Length: 34min 3sec (2043 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 04 2020