TMC2209 and TMC 5160: Guide for MKS Gen L and SKR V1.3

in this video I've got your complete guide to fitting the latest in stepper motor drivers TMC 2200 nines and TMC 51 60s [Music] [Music] Before we jump into the latest and greatest in stepper motor drivers let's revise what I've covered in the past in part one of my stepper motor driver series we covered the standard eight four nine eight eight and the TMC 2100 s part 2 was 22:08 including UART mode part 3 2130 s and s bi mode with sensorless homing and part 4 lv 80 79 s and a wrap up of everything else now any of those stepper motor drivers offer significant upgrades over the standard a four nine eight eighths found in many 3d printers and there's new ones are even better still so before we start let's go over some reminders and then look at their specs you can't perform this upgrade if you're running a mainboard with integrated stepper motor drivers like the end of three instead you need a ramps or ramps compatible board where there's a slight - plug in a separate stepper motor driver and you can change them at will in this video I'm going to attempt to cover the MKS Gen L as well as a SKR 1.3 both of which i've made video guides before I'm fitting to the end of three the 22:09 z' that i'll be running our version 1.1 from big tree tech the 22:09 is a lot like the 2208 except it can handle more current and also support sensorless homing the 5160 I'll be showing is also from victory Tech and is version 1.2 the 5160 is like a 2130 it uses SPI as sensorless homing but the difference is it can handle an enormous current with it's for external MOSFETs because of this when running lower currents it actually runs quite a bit cooler than other TMC drivers so here we have a comparison of popular existing TMC drivers we can see that the 22:08 is probably the winner it's reasonably priced can handle a fair bit of current has stealth drop too which provides more talk with the same quiet volume the only downside is that it doesn't have sensor less homing now we introduced the two new models and we can see it with the 2209 apart from the price will be the new favourite it's got all the advantages the 2208 except with additional current handling and sensorless homing support the 5160 is quite expensive at this stage but if you're driving large stepper motors it's probably your only choice it can handle spi as well as UART modes but in marlin only SPI is supported to make this as complete as possible I'll be covering step by step for both super motor drivers for both the MKS Gen L as well as the SK our version 1.3 a lot of the steps are the same but to clarify things I've got these graphics down the bottom when you see a tick for whatever you're fitting it means you need to complete that step I won't be covering standalone mode for the 22 row nines or manual vrf setting if you want a more detailed rundown on those things check out the links in the description to my previous videos on these topics let's start on these tube by jumping into the firmware now unfortunately if you already had Mullen one-one-nine or something earlier setup you're gonna have to start again because these drivers are both only supported with Marlin 2.0 so we're going to change the branch to that and then download our zebra I'm configuring for the end of three here and it's going to be the same regardless of your main board you're going to go into the example configurations in my case n2 3 copy the files from inside this folder come back to the main Marlin folder and then paste them in overriding when prompted this will set up the bulk of our configuration ready for our chosen 3d printer I've made videos about this already but here's a quick recap for the EM question L we need to set that mainboard in configuration H as well as setting the fan pin to 7 in configuration advanced H if working in the Arduino IDE we need to visit the library manager and search for TMC and install the TMC stepa library by team MLAT aleut I'll apologize in advance for the pronunciation of that name if you're configuring in atom for the sk l 1.3 here's a quick recap for that in platform io NE we need to set our environment to LPC 1768 will then set our b3 sk r version 1.3 board in configure eh and once again correctly set the fan pin as P to underscore oh four in configuration advanced of H for either mainboard we need to set 22:09 as our stepper driver type in configuration H simply copy the text T mc2 209 and then come down and paste it over the top of all of the instances for each access that you're installing for also don't forget to uncomment this so it's actually read by the firmware for the 5160 this works exactly the same way except this time the text that we're going to paste in is TMC five one six zero once again don't forget to uncomment there are two other specific changes for the 5160 and the first is inverting the stepper direction for every axis that you're installing these drivers simply change it from false to true or vice versa the second change is in configuration advance H and for the 5160 s we need to change the sense value from point 1 1 to point 0 7 5 as they're different on this driver 51 60 s have no standalone mode therefore no trim point and the V refs are only calculated by the software in spi mode making this adjustment will ensure the correct current is sent through to your stepper motors before we continue on setting VF and therefore stepper motor current our aim is to set it as low as possible without skipping steps if your stepper motors during printing are too hot to touch lower the V ref value but if you're skipping steps then you must raise it previously for the end of 3 we calculated 0.76 for x y&z and point 9 for the extruder however these are base values and you should adjust using the previous rule of thumb as your guide the stepper motor on the printer dictates of the current rather than the stepper motor driver assuming you've set the correct sense resistor value you can now set 764 x y&z on an Ender 3 and 900 for a 0 for any smart TMC drivers I like to have stealth chopper enabled to make them nice and quiet you can also double check that your chopper timing is set to the correct voltage of your printer I would recommend uncommenting define motor driver status so we can debug our stepper drivers if necessary and though it recommend uncommenting hybrid threshold so your drivers can switch between the quiet stealth job and the more powerful spread cycle on-demand according to the print speed another good thing to uncomment is TMC debug and that will give us additional info when we're sending an m12 2g code to see if our drivers are working if you're using 51 60s on an SKR 1.3 you need to uncomment Defiant TMC use software SP I will cover sensorless homing separately later on to cover the additional steps which means for now we're finished with the firmware and ready to jump into our physical install of the stepper motor drivers for the MKS Gen L we're going to start by removing the three jumpers under each of the stepper motor driver sockets these are usually used to set microstepping but we'll be doing an instead via software the sk r 1.3 also comes with numerous jumpers to suit every configuration and it's best practice to remove all of them before starting apart from the one that sets the voltage from the USB or external power now both of the stepper motor drivers that I'm using here come with the pins that go from the top all the way through at the bottom which is either advantageous or will present problems depending on your combination of parts that you'll be fitting we can also see on the 5160 the for external MOSFETs a known issue with some of the first-generation 5160 breakout boards is that the CLK pin needs to be attached to ground but there's no way to do it without soldering on an external jumper here is a nice photo of the fix from github it's the next pin along from the four that face up for SPI and it needs to go to the opposing diagonal corner here you can see my version the offending pin has been snipped underneath to no longer plug in and then I've sold it a small bit of wire going from the top of that to the opposite corner which is ground doing this will prevent automatic over temp warnings which shut down your printer on either mainboard we'll start with the 22:09 on the MKS Jenn L and the direction and ground pins are labeled on the driver as well as the board and we're going to match them up when we plug it in you'll probably notice that one of them downwards facing pins touches the capacitor and needs to be bent out of the way this can be achieved with a set of pliers doing it carefully or alternatively you can slip it off but then there's no going back on the MKS Gen L we unfortunately have to bend out the pins that are facing up on the top to prevent them also playing in underneath when you do plug them in take care that they're not touching and shorting on the nearby head of hints again you have the choice of cutting them off permanently but that can't be fixed without a soldering iron if you ever upgrade to another board it's time to make up the cabling we need to connect the top of the drivers to the mainboard with UART mode to make our communication cables we need eight DuPont wires and four 1k resistors you're going to cut one of the jumper cables in half put on some heat-shrink twist the ends and then solder the 1k resistor in place after this I slid down my clear heat shrink tubing headed it up and isolated everything to finish on one end we're going to cut off the plugs strip them back and solder them together into a wide Junction here you can see my 1k resistor is on the orange lead here is a pin out diagram for the MKS Gen L and we're going to plug all of our new cables into auxilary - here is how the wiring goes with the standard Mullen pin assignments we skipped the left-hand ground and five volt pins and then they go in in pairs please note that the black box shows you which one the resistor Y should be plugged into here's our four you are cables plugged in on top of the stepper motor driver they're going to the left hand most pin that faces upwards you then follow the lead taking care to note which color your resistor is on in my case it's orange and then plug it into exilair - as was shown in the previous diagram you can see that for the first one orange is on the right but then it's on the left for the other three you can also see that the first two pins have been skipped as per the wiring diagram shown here and here it is installed on the printer it looks like a mess but it does work and if we were wondering what one of the advantages of the SKA 1.3 is then check out this comparison on the SKR 1.3 there's no need to make any external UART wiring harnesses everything is done internally and to activate UART all the need to do is insert jumpers on the four pairs of red header pins as shown here no custom wiring loons no mess no fuss regardless of the board that you're using it's now time to connect via terminal and type in m12 - and if your wiring is successful you'll see down the bottom numbers under the drive registers and the testing connection okay for each access time for our 51 60s and unfortunately once again on the MKS Gen L you'll need to bend the pins out of the way to avoid any errors again you do have the option to simply cut them off if you don't want to bend direction and step aren't labeled on the 51 60s but the enable pin has a white border we can see this labeled and the MKS Janelle we can therefore correctly align and insert the stepper motor driver this means we're ready to make up our spi mode harnesses the SPI mode wiring is the same as for the 2130 and honestly it's a bit of a nightmare in the interest of keeping this video concise I'm not going to go over it step-by-step again here if you're after that type of step-by-step detail please go through to my 2130 video linked in the description below here is the finished loom in place we have a set of connectors that daisy chains from XYZ and the extruder one plug then goes into exilair to skipping the first two pins with all of the wires arranged so they're pointing to the upper left the second one goes into exhilarate rienne skipping the left two pins this time making the shape of a capital L if he thought the UART wiring was messy well here's the SPI cabling in all of its glory let's see how the same thing is achieved on an sk r 1.3 on the sk r 1.3 you'll notice two columns of red-backed headers underneath each stepper motor driver and to enable spi mode all we need to do is put on four jumpers to cover each one with the four jumpers in place simply plug the stepper motor driver back on top and then repeat for the other three axes and your SPI mode wiring is done once again no fuss no mess and very quick for both the stepper motor drivers it's very important to install the heatsink the 2200 nine is straightforward but the one for the 5160 needs to be connected to the four MOSFETs on the top for either mainboard and just like the 22:09 z' we want to connect via USB via something like pronterface and type in a m12 - and make sure we have driver registers as well as an OK for testing connection other useful G codes are M 906 to set your current going to your stepper motors M 569 to toggle between stealth chop or spread cycle modes and m9 1-3 which lets the printer automatically switch between the two depending on the threshold speed that you said with our main functionality working it's time to look at sensorless homing and it was trickier than when I did this with 21 30s there are some known bugs but I did get it working for both drivers on both main boards so here's my step-by-step guide in configuration advanced dot H will find a section called sensorless homing that we need to uncomment for either driver there's also a value for x and y called stall sensitivity which will chew in later on to get the sensitivity of the sensor less homing just right we need to pay attention to the values for each of our stepper motor drivers so we know what range were working in we also need to set the home bump to 0 for the x and y axes and the next steps will be different for each stepper motor driver the 5160 is set up just like a 2130 and we'll start by setting the X&Y endstop inverting from false to true our final step is to find the section with in stock pull ups and define the x and y in stock pull ups by deleting the two forward slashes at the start of the lines 22:09 czar a little bit buggy at this early stage and they have inverted logic we don't need to uncomment pull-ups for x and y just defining the in stop flops at the top will work fine we can also leave our x-men and the Y min and stop inverting on false the pin used for sensorless homing is the same on both stepper motor drivers on the short side with the extra pins it's the third one from the left hand corner the 2209 x' already have this pin in place but for the 51 60s I had to solder one in and for the MKS Jen L it needs to face upwards we're going to run a single wire from this Diagnostics pin to the signal pin for the x-men and Y min n stock plugs here I'm showing the wiring on 22:09 but it works exactly the same for 51 60s the DuPont connectors will barely reach the plug on to the signal pin for the N stops so it's a good idea once they're in place to add a little bit of hot glue to stop them from vibrating loose when preparing the 51 60s for the SKR board it's exactly the same except now the pin is soldered facing downwards the 2200 nines already have this in place the SKR board once again has no external wiring to get sensorless foaming connected by putting jumpers on the 2 left hand sets of red headers we've now connected the diagnostic pins to the end stops internally this is the same for either stepper motor driver once the firmware has been updated we can connect for our console and send an m1 1:9 there's no physical switches anymore so for x and y we want the end stop to read as open now it's a matter of repeatedly homing the machine to find a sensitivity value that doesn't grind or stop prematurely we use the m9 one fault command to send different values until we find the right one and it's going to be different for every printer nevertheless these are the values that I arrived at after testing so there might be a good starting point for you both the stepper motor drivers are now working to their full capacity although they're new and there are some kinks to be ironed out I'm appreciative of the work that's been put into the community and things will only improve from here if you'd like to let me know which one you're interested in or if you have any thoughts on which one would suit particular applications and it's already printing or anything else please leave them below in the comments thank you so much for watching and until next time happy 3d printing g'day it's Michael again if you liked the video 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Channel: Teaching Tech

Views: 194,027

Keywords: 3d printing, 3d print, 3d printer, 3d printed, upgrades, mod, modification, improvement, mods, stepper motor drivers, trinamic, tmc, tmc2209, tmc5160, guide, install, installation, how to, tutorial, firmware, marlin, configuration, sensorless homing, stealthchop, stallguard, step by step, creality, ender 3, skr 1.3, skr v1.3, vref, uart, spi, jumpers

Id: dOJbSrWVu_Q

Length: 18min 4sec (1084 seconds)

Published: Fri Jul 19 2019