AWS Back Purge Welding Fixture Part 8: Finale

[Music] all righty guys I'm on the very last phase of the back purged fixture for Jody and I told you in the last episode I had a couple of finishing touches that I would like to do so what I what I want to do in this episode to finish this off is I had my friend Tom Muttley over at bought industrial make me a very special tag this is one of a kind this is the only one that's made and I wanted to have a tag to put on this fixture to kind of symbolize the collaboration between Jody and I with this with this work piece right here so Tom worked up this tag and he worked his magic and it looks great it's acid-etched tag made it in brass with both the weld munger and the a barn 79 logo also saying weld monger and booth machine on there so I wanted a place where I could put a serial number which this is probably only going to be a serial number of one we'll probably put zero zero one on there and I'm gonna put the date there as well and I'm gonna make use of my Smith marking machine right here I haven't shown this yet but I acquired this to be able to do tags like this so we're going to use it for the first time on this tag right here and get it marked and then after we get it marked we're gonna go ahead and install it on to the purge fixture and we're going to set it up in the mill and we're gonna drill it we're gonna drill the tag and the fixture to use drive screws and be able to use those to install on there and then the last finishing touch I'm going to do these plant bars right here I've decided instead of leaving them bare what I want to do is use the ausf o blue and actually black them you know put the black oxide on there I think that will make it look really nice and give it a very light amount of corrosion resistance there as well but I think that'll look pretty good too so we'll use my Brownells ausco black we'll get them cleaned real good and we'll go ahead and block them all so let's go ahead and get started we'll take a quick look at the Schmidt marking machine here this was something that I picked up off eBay and you have a dial here with the letter whatever letter letter numbers that you want to stamp in the thing and you just simply rotate it around you line it up on the top to indicate the letter that you want to stamp on the bottom there okay so to stamp it you just pull the lever down and every time you pull it down the table moves over one division just like a typewriter that's how it how its set up you've got a button here that you can use to release it or position the table over where you want it to go still a little green using it I've done a little bit of practice in on some other brass and I've got some aluminum pieces right here that I just practice on recently so you really got to get a little practice it when I'm fine and so there's there's a piece of brass and it's just some thin brass right there that stamp my a bomb 79 N and this is some aluminum that I did today to try to get the depth set this is the same thickness as the brass of the tag that we want to stamp right there so you know we want to put it down there just like so those those worked out pretty good so you can set the depth with this knob on the top oh no how far you impress the the metal there there's also a little clamp this little paddle right here you push this back so that whenever you put your your tag in there you put it up inside there and then let go and then it holds it for you so that it's not moving around and you just line it up where you need to go and then you start stamping it alrighty and this is a this is like an adjustable fence there too so you can loosen this guy up and slide it up and down where it needs to go so I would like to find some some different size letter wheels for this thing they didn't make them in different sizing this one's 3/16 so I would like to find you know like say maybe 1/16 and 1/8 and have a variety of sizes on there so a useful tool if you're doing tag soon such as that right there or any kind of tags so I picked it up because not just because of this but I've got some tags that I'll be making for my fixture plates just guy right here so we'll be using this machine to stamp those whenever I get around to making those I think I'm ready to go ahead and start stamping this I've got everything centered up so it's kind of easy to look down from the side and get the lettering will centered up with the groove the way where you want it to all right I'm going to I'm going to stamp the serial number first that's what we're lined up on and I'm going to do 0 0 1 so we'll just do three letters there so I think we are ready to go just roll with it okay that looks pretty good zero zero all right so move the doll around to one there we go that looks pretty good I'm liking it you even get you a little closer shot of the first stamps there all right so I'm going to reset and do the date there next to it all right we're ready to stamp our date in that tag now I've got it pretty well centered up it looks like it's right in the middle I shifted the table over three positions so it would be lined up with our first zero for the serial number and I am gonna stamp this thing the date that this video comes out and this is also going to be the date that we consider this thing completed so that's going to be March the second 2019 we're just going to use our numbers so we're gonna do three all right there's our three now we're gonna use a forward slash to separate it alright so now we want our two yeah I'm not gonna go 0-2 we're just gonna go three to 2019 that's how I like my dates alright we'll go back to our forward slash all right so two we want zero and then one on our last letter or number it's going to be nine there we go all right and it looks good too it's pretty well centered up that looks great let's get it out of there one more little shot as is in the in the marking machine there we go serial number one March 2nd 2019 love it really liked it gonna like having this marking machine for doing things like that very cool I want to go ahead and give this thing a Polish and see if it'll brighten up that brass a little bit I'm just using my miracle polishing cloth they're the one that we used before on the copper you see that's what looks like as it's been sitting up for a while yeah I think that's gonna work great there I just wanted to do one spot and see but I'm gonna go ahead and polish the whole thing though with it all right once we get it buffed get it polished with the polishing cloth just give it a buff I mean with the I use a microfiber cloth the thing is shining like new money look at that beautiful all right let's move on to our next phase and get this thing mounted so this is the end that I want to put the put the new tag I want it on the end we're gonna have it centered up I actually like the size of it it's not it's not a little small tag it's actually got some size to it and it's easy to see I just think it's a really good contrast against the aluminum there so this is all standard sizing so I can equally spaced it inch and a half on each side and then we'll be eighth of an inch from the edge between the copper there and then the the bottom of it so I'm gonna get it squared up and what what I plan to do and we get it squared up and we are going to put a piece of tape across it to hold it in place and that should suffice to be able to drill this in place just like that that tape should work really good and we're just on the outside of the width of the tape there so that worked out pretty good there too this is a little kit that I've started for the drive screws and this is what we'll be using to hold the tag to the aluminum so I've got double lot zero two and four and quarter inch links I've also made up a little brass punch there with the radius on the end and we can use that to drive a man I've got a set of tweezers here that you used to hold them there just like that and so I'm gonna be using the number four size quarter-inch linked and it should look really good against that tag there okay we're ready to drill our holes I trimmed in the angle plate so that we're nice and straight and what we're gonna do I've already got centered up on the tag there using my edge finder we're going to be doing a center distance of this direction right here we'll off the center line is one of 3/8 from the center line and then centre line this way and your y-axis is going to be it's an innate got all that set up I did some testing on this aluminum block right here to make sure that I had the correct drill size and you know how it how it presses in there so I'm going to be using a number 37 drill bit for the hole that the drive screw is pressed into and then I'll come back with a number 32 drill and drill the brass just just enough clearance where the drive screw kind of slides through it I'm doing this with my thumb here just kind of hold it flat I know you probably can't see it I'm using the center drill just to make a divot to help make sure that the drill follows it straight [Applause] all right we're in our aluminum now I've got a depth set on the quill up here too by the way we need to hold on to that tag it's trying to lift it just a bit chips are trying to push it up I think guys that drill them I'm gonna go ahead and drive it in there too to help secure it we'll go with our number 32 just to provide some clearance through the brass just like that you see the tweezers worked really good to be able to hold that little thing all right if it's through the brass good I'm just gonna give it a little tap to start it and we got our brass punch here that I've made up try to eliminate making a big flat spot on the end of the drive screw it looks like we're there perfect that looks good all right all right we just drilled the last hole there okay yeah that looks good all right what'd you guys think you liked it I know I do I think it makes it look really nice having that tag on there all right so we're getting close all we need to do now let's go over to our clamp bars and go ahead and do our Oslo black on those two clamp bars to prep them all I'm going to simply do is just clamp them down here and I'm just going to rub them down with this scotch brite just to kind of buff them just like so we'll do that on all sides and I'll clean them real good make sure they're good and dry and then then we'll go through our Oslo black oK we've got both of the bars Scotch prodded and cleaned off and this is what I'm gonna be using the Brownells oslo blue and my friend alex brown is the one that showed me this stuff right here he's caveman welder on instagram and he uses this stuff and it works good for simple things like this you know little farts and jobs and tools in the shop it's marketed toward a gun bluing but it works good out here in the shop I'm gonna move one of these out of the way just kind of focus on one at a time and the way that I use this is that he's like a cotton swab here and just kind of soak it in rub it all over your part and then then wipe it off look at that instant black pretty neat how it works I've got some q-tips that I'll use for the slots try to get them in there real good so run over it real good on the outside and sometimes you might have to do it twice let's go ahead and let's get the backside we got plenty of the fluid still in our cotton ball here that's working good to get in there in that slot there don't don't stick the dirty in back in the fluid always use a clean end or a clean cotton ball that out of the way so we don't spill it let's go ahead and give it a wipe down that's looking pretty good a couple spots there that I didn't get very good I'm gonna hit that again all right we'll set this one off to the side and let it completely dry and then we'll burnish it with the steel wool you have some fine steel wool here burnish it and then we'll probably black it one more time give it a nice buff with the fine steel wool and it'll kind of brighten it and polish it out really all right I'll keep working on that we'll get both of them done I think that I want to blew it one more time and try to get it just a little bit darker a little bit more consistent there there they are finished up I think they look good and they are ready to go so just about done here what I want to do I'm gonna give this thing one more clean I'm going to give it a nice little polish is what I'm going to do try to clean it up some and then put it all back together for a final time I am going to use my polishing cloth here and go ahead and give this lumen I'm a nice polish and it'll really shine well there she is all buffed and shine we even did the bottom just a very light polish really just to kind of clean it alright let's put this thing back together alright guys I think this projects finally coming to a close we finally got all the Machine done and it is ready to go into Jodi's hands and I sure hope Jodi if he likes this and appreciates it I'm sure he's gonna appreciate I just it's probably turned into a little more of a blingy tight machining project than what we were first talking about doing but that's just kind of you know what I like to do especially when I get to take my time here in my shop and have a little bit of fun at building the project you know things like this not necessarily is something that I'm worried about how much time I'm spending on it or how fast to get it done to get it out to a customers door you know this is this is just something that I'm doing between me and Jodi you know it's just I'm helping him out and we are enjoying the collaborations with each other on each other's channels so you know he's going to be taking this part right here and he's going to be using it on his channel and doing some welding so I've got one more little final touch to to do this thing and I was waiting on some some new bolts to come in I decided that to take these bolts out and go with some different bolts so let me bring you down here a little closer and we'll swap those things out so I could say it we've got some new bolts so what I decided to go with is I bought these stainless steel flange bolts from mcmaster-carr and I've been waiting on them to come in I just ordered him yesterday so I was waiting for him to come in today so that we could close this video out so I want to bring up something about this design that I didn't think about I mean just a minute to you that I didn't think about this going into the project I was given some prints you know Jodi got some prints off the internet and he given to me and I didn't really I studied him to make sure all the dimensions were they and everything that I needed to complete the job but I wasn't thinking about having recessed bolt heads here you know to keep from maybe you know be in the way of your hand I totally agree that these bolts are kind of being the way if you're wanting to do a long weld if you're trying to you know run your hand along here but I didn't realize that until after I drilled and tapped this block and after i milled these slots right here you know once I did that I realized well maybe who should have used some cap head bolts the problem with using cap head bolts if I was to use half inch cap head bolts is that the heads of a socket head is a half inch thick this plate is a half inch thick so it would look kind of goofy if you still had some of that socket head sticking up out of the slot right here really what we needed to use was something like maybe a 3/8 diameter socket head bolt so that we could have milled a 3/8 slot and then milled the appropriate counter bore slot for the head is recessed down in there and still have an eighth of an inch in the bottom of this plate to be able to hold it down but I miss that going into the project that was my fault that I missed it and you know and I admit that that was a mistake that I made but I still made it per the print okay it's still right and Jody is still happy with how it turned out and you know if we ever have to do another one we will definitely take that consideration anybody else that's going to that decides they want to build one then take that as a learning opportunity so here's the bolts that I picked up these are half thirteen stainless steel flange bolts there's not a lot of torque that have to go down on these things these are just simple clamping bolts to hold a piece of metal down to this fixture here but I'm already liking the way they look you don't have that washer jiggling around taking up just a little bit less space they're a little bit smaller heck sighs those are 9/16 hex and I actually like the contrast better I think it matches just a little bit better when you're looking down at the flathead bolts they're holding the copper bar in there so there we go let's uh let's move them out just a little so you can see the the aluminum and Snug it down and there it is so I'm real happy with how it looks it just turned out great real happy with the tag there got to thank my buddy Tom again for making that for me did a beautiful job on that tag I like the way the bluing turned out on the clamp bars so we are good to go I still have one final thing to do this I almost forgot because I'm not used to doing yet but I've got my stamp here that buckeye engraving made for me and I haven't used it on a job yet this is going to be the first job that I'll put this stamp on so let's go ahead and do that now I think I'm going to put it right there above the tapped hole in between the hole in the copper bar and I'm not gonna scale it out I'm just gonna eyeball this thing like any any maker would and hopefully it's gonna be a one-shot deal here we go there we go you got to be careful I practice a little bit with it and if you if you sometimes you'll get a ghosting effect if you uh if you hit it too hard it'll bounce and actually do it twice so I think that one turned out pretty good though we got it there we go our first official a bottom 79 hallmark on our first job cool I decided to go ahead and stamp the clamp bars with it as well so we got a hallmark there and a hallmark there so I've had a lot of comments both in the videos and the Instagram feeds of you know showing the pictures of this a lot of people not understanding what this is or how it's used and what this is is a it's a welding fixture that purges the backside of a weld seam with argon so it's mainly going to be used I believe it's mainly going to be used for just test welding is all this isn't something that you're using for a specific welding procedure that's needed I believe that Jody is wanting this for testing purposes you know for for his videos so you uh you know loosen the clamp bars moving back and you lay your two pieces of material you have a butt weld that goes right down the middle where this channel is and all the holes are drilled and you know you hook your gas line to it that's what this is for you're gonna have your your argon line coming in and connecting to that you turn your are going on you know your flow meter and it's going to purge this area with argon gas all right so that's gonna protect the backside of the well from the atmosphere and I believe in theory create a much nicer weld there so that's the gist of what this is used for I'm sure he's gonna use it for probably you know stainless aluminum the steel and just test different joints there with the back purge to see how it does so that that's really what it's for right there and I look forward to seeing Jody put this thing to use on his channel you know it's so a lot of guys are talking about how pretty it is and you shouldn't be welding on it but you know what I was taught it's only knew one time after that you know it's it's fair game so you know we've got our we got our pictures of it and we got our video proof of making it but I'm ready to see Jody take this thing and start putting it to use there's nothing wrong with getting it dirty and and making it look like a tool that's it's being used around the shop so that's going to be it guys Jody thanks for collaborating with me on this I really enjoyed the the the job here and helping you out and Jody and I have been talking around and kicking around the idea of him coming down here to my shop and doing some video work with me here in my shop you do some welding possibly do some spray welding for him to share on his channel and and who knows you know that we've been kind of kicking around different ideas so we're start working on that but I'm looking forward to getting him down here and the a bomb shop and doing a little bit of welding with me alright guys hope you enjoyed the series and we'll see you on the next set of videos okay [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: Abom79

Views: 129,416

Rating: 4.9672813 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, welding tips & tricks, welding, welding fixture, custom welding fixture, purge fixture, custom purge fixture, back purge weld fixture, custom machinery tags, identification plates, custom ID plates, vonindustrial, milling machine, drive screws, brownells ospho blue, cold blue, polishing aluminum

Id: ozO4OSS8S5Q

Length: 36min 15sec (2175 seconds)

Published: Sat Mar 02 2019