APEX LEGENDS - 3D Printing the WRAITH HEIRLOOM Dagger on the Moai 200!

all right here we go this video is brought to you by matter hackers and peopple ease moai 200 hey there fellow maker welcome to the shop you've got build today and also a really cool project with a really cool 3d printer our friends over at madder hackers and peopple ii teamed up with us so that we could show you a project on the newer moai 200 SL a 3d printer it's an SLA machine which means it does high detail very well and it's a much larger print volume than a lot more of the other SLA printers out there so we were excited to get a chance to do a prop that is super detailed and larger than most 3d printed props and I went with a dagger from apex ledges new game that's out jury over at the 3d workbench put together a file for it so I bought it from his Etsy store I'll have a link down below if you want to grab one for yourself and we figured let's give it a shot and see we can print this whole 12 inch long dagger all in one go on the moai 200 let's do it I loaded up the model of the dagger in moais essaouira slicer this is to prepare it for printing I got it rotated in place so that it fit perfectly inside of the print volume and I added supports I exported my g-code and put it into the moai 200 for printing and hit go [Music] when the print finished up about 14 hours later I pulled the printbed off of the printer so that I could get at the print and then I used a chisel to very carefully pry the supports off of the printing surface so that I could get the whole dagger off and start working on it the first thing I wanted to do was to remove all of that support material I tried to be careful to not chip into the printed surface that I wanted to keep on the dagger I used some flush cutters and brute force to snap away all of that support material when the prints come off the print bed they have a fine coating of some of the liquid resin still on them it needs to be cleaned off and I used 70% isopropyl alcohol I found that 99% it was too strong 70 worked really well I could submerge the part in a bath of that alcohol and using a soft toothbrush scrub away at the surface to remove any remaining resin once I was pretty sure I got all the resin off I gave it a quick rinse in water again using that toothbrush just to scrub away any remaining resin SLA prints like this need to be finished off with some ultraviolet light it was recommended that I submerge the part in water and then shine a UV light on it so I put it in a bath of water turn on my UV light and let it bathe in that warming glow for 10 minutes before flipping it over and baking the other side once the dagger was fully cured I pulled it out of the water and they use compressed air to blow it all off and make sure that everything on it was fully cured and then we could get to work on finishing it this thing looks really great a couple of notes I printed it with the flat side of it facing towards the build surface I figured having a lot of surface area so the supports would have something to grab on to would help although I think perhaps if I'd done it perfectly vertically like so I could have had the supports all along this edge and not had them touch down on this surface because I will have to clean that up a little bit so if I were to do this again I'd probably try and print it like that but other than that everything turned out really well and I'm excited to dive in and start cleaning this up so we can get ready to make our fully finished prop this is the side of the dagger that did not have support material on it and I am blown away by detail look at that I challenged an FTM printer to get this kind of super fine detail check out this text - it's about a millimeter deep it's super super clean and crisp I'm very excited that I won't have to sand in and around here my mind's already racing with other project ideas for this printer the this level of detail and then a whole like a 12 inch long prop all in one print is pretty exciting to think about actually I imagine you've got some ideas if you do have an idea of a property print on this printer and get all this kind of detail what would you pick what would you print on a printer this big with this kind of detail let me know down in the comments in fact because I'd love to get some more ideas the first thing I'll do is use these flush cutters to go in and trim off any remaining little nubs that were left from the supports you got to be careful though it's possible to accidentally snap it off and leave a little indent I did right there that'll have to be filled in later so you do want to be careful with the flush cutter that you don't snap it this stuff is quite brittle but I can remove most of the support material or what's left of it anyway with my flush cutters and then I don't have to sand all that off later so I'm just gonna go over this thing and do a little bit cleanup now that I've removed the bulk of these support spots here I'm going to use just a nail file to go in and remove the rest of them and then this bevel here should be pretty smooth so I'm gonna take the opportunity to kind of level everything out a little bit the opposite side is pretty much good to go I'm probably gonna prime and sand that once this eye needs a tiny bit more work one of the nice things about this type of SLA printer resin is that when it's fully cured it's really nice to sand it's a lot nicer than like like if you're trying to say in a PLA print off of an FTM printer this is much nicer than that it's it's rigid so it doesn't gum up the way that other materials might this whole thing's gonna get sanded as smooth as possible I am planning on making a mold of it so I want to make sure that the mold is nice and clean not all the high spots cleaned up here but these low spots especially in some of the detail areas are gonna require a little more fine detail I can't quite get my big stubby sanding tools in there so I've got this round diamond grinding bit on my rotary tool and I can use it to just knock those back a bit and then I can just kind of feel and see if it's smooth enough for my purposes I will have to come back in and stay in that a little bit but that should get the surface pretty flush try not to go too deep I don't want to have to fill in if I can avoid it we've got all of those blemishes knocked down a bit and now I have some 400 grit sandpaper and I'm trying to just level out all of these surfaces especially just anywhere that I use that rotary tool just want to make sure that spot ends up being as flat as possible this will also reveal wherever there is a small divot that needs to be filled in this spot of white is actually a low spot that's filled in with dust I will have to fill that same thing with this spot over here but I'm gonna say in everything flat and then hit this with air to knock all of that out and then I hit it with primer and then any of those low spots will be very obvious when we can use a tiny amount of filler to clean that up but I'm just gonna keep going with my sandpaper until this low area is nice and smooth I just did a quick pass of sanding everything is looking pretty good but I do want to hit this with primer just so I can double check that everything looks great I do know there's a couple of small spots I will have to fill I can hit this with compressed air get all that dust out of the details because I want to make sure that the spray paint primer I put on there will have something to stick to we don't want big clumps of resin or resin dust anyway getting in our way to really make sure it's nice and clean I can wipe the whole thing down with alcohol and just like when I cleaned the print out of the print bed I'm using 70% or not 99% we want a slightly gentler alcohol so we don't gum up the resin surface but that really does a good job of picking up any remaining dust so that now we can hit this with some primer [Music] left the primary drive for about half an hour and now we can very clearly see the low spots as little divots from the support material that I can fill in I'm gonna do this filling before I do any sort of sanding because I will have to sand this filler so I can do that at the same time once that's dried but that's really all I need I don't want to overdo it because that means more sanding for me later so I'm just gonna go around fill in a couple of these little spots I waited about another half hour for my filler to dry and it seems like it's fully dry so I can go in with my 400 sandpaper and sand it nice and smooth and I want to make sure that I'm not making a divot so I'm going across it and some nice wide strokes there and there should be just a little bit of green left in there where it's filling the hole that's the goal so I can go over all these little parts that I filled earlier see it amazing smooth got all my spots smoothed out pretty well I'm just kind of giving everything a bit of a buff with this scouring pad I do think I want to hit this wall more around a primer but before I do that I do want to do a little bit of sanding on the other side I've already started really just to make sure it's as smooth as possible so some of this edge here to get rid of that tiny bit of texture I've got some 220 and then we'll go to 400 and then eventually the scouring pad just kind of smooth everything out before one more round of priming that'll do it for this round I think I'm going to just dust this off and hit it with another layer of primer just so we can double-check that everything looks really good and then we can get out of mold making while the primer is drying on my dagger I'm gonna set up my mold box this will hold all the silicone around the dagger while we're pouring it and normally I would take the time get some clay and do a two-part mold for a dagger like this but sometimes you don't have all that time sometimes you only have let's say 24 hours to get a casting out so I'm gonna show you how I would do a dagger like this as a one part mold means we're gonna have to cut the mold apart later which should be very exciting to get started I built a little base out of some scrap plywood here drove couple screws through it and that's what's gonna support our dagger have it have a spare print right here that's gonna support it and hold it up right when we filled this box that I'm about to build with silicone that box is gonna be made out of this scrap chloroplast plastic this is like the sign making stuff you'd get at the hardware store I'm gonna use this because I have a bunch of it from a left of a project and this will make the box around which we will pour our mold this is of course is the temporary box so I'm just gonna tape it all together using duct tape and then later we can tear it apart this kind of goes like that and then this one I think I've designed it to go on the outside pretty sure that's how I did it so that this will fit inside of it like that go like this a little bit of cleanup but we got ourselves a little rectangular box the idea is our dagger will be attached to those screws and then this will go over it to contain our silicone and we just fill it right up I gave the Prime twice primed dagger another buffing with some scouring pad there and now it's time to set it up for molding and it's got to go on this fella so I need to drill some holes at the bottom of it very carefully I've marked out where I want to drill the holes now this resin is super brittle and I want to be really careful not to have it just explode when I try and drill a hole so I'm gonna drill a pilot hole with a smaller drill bit first and then I'm gonna come in with a bigger guy after I also want to make sure I don't drive all the way through into this this empty cavity here so kind of got it started and now I want to not go that way I want it to go that way see if we can drill that out to the bigger hole without again exploding it yeah it's kind of crunchy now this gets kind of mangled it's not the end of the world this is gonna be the pouring spout eventually so this will all be part of the sprue I just need to make sure it doesn't blow up and ruin any parts that we want to keep so that will go on like that alright these two things are gonna go in there although I do need these to go down a little further so we have more room in our mold box so I think I'm just gonna cut these shorter I can't really drill these any deeper there isn't enough material left [Music] that fits on there still and it should be tall enough for our box so I can glue this on it I'm just gonna tack it down with hot glue this just needs to hold it in place while the silicone cures it doesn't need to be prettier structurally sound it just needs to help out for a little while do you want to kind of make sure that it's mostly up right now it's time to attach our box so it should fit over here perfectly and it does now I can just hot glue the box to the piece of wood and we're pretty well set I do have the ability to wiggle this a little bit and make sure the dagger is centered in the mold so I can put on my hot glue and then take a peak down there and nudge this a little bit to get everything kind of centered I want to make sure that the dagger is centered this way I don't want the mold box too close to one side or the other time to mix up my silicone I did some math the volume of that box is about 750 milliliters and I'm estimating the dagger is about a hundred so I'm gonna mix up about 650 milliliters of silicone that should be pretty close it's a 1 to 10 ratio so it's 777 grams of silicone I need 77 grams of side B I say 77 isn't what I said that's how much it should be 77 all I have to do now is mix this all together now you might be asking yourself bill you've already 3d printed the prop while you're going through the added expense and time of making a mold well there's a lot of reasons why if I wanted to make more than one of these daggers a mold would allow me to cast multiple copies much quicker and cheaper than just continuing to print them but also that type of SLA resin is extremely brittle not just working with it but if you were to say make your prop of that and then you bring it to a convention and drop it on a hard floor well this is what would happen all right here we go [Music] [Music] there we go the urethane resin castings that we're gonna get out of this mold however should be far more durable and a lot better at being dropped also if we have a mold we can cast the dagger in a wide variety of materials and colors and transparencies just gives us a lot more options gives us room to experiment especially once we have the mold made I'm gonna dump this into another bucket and scrape the sides to make sure that it's all nice and integrated there's still plenty of unmixed silicone in there there we go one more mix in the mold vacuum degassing sky and then pour our mold in you go our silicone when we mix it we introduce a whole lot of air bubbles so we're using this vacuum chamber to pull as many of those bubbles out as we can we also want to make sure it doesn't overflow oh my goodness go down down down all right we'll leave it going for about a minute and then we should be all set there we go some nice fresh silicone I set my piece down a little lower so it's easier to pour in there and then I'm gonna try and pour a nice thin stream all the way to the bottom and then let it fill up I want to try and not hit the piece I want to try and go all the way down to the bottom if I can not always possible but yeah just gonna do this for a while I'm using old Max 30 here it's a pretty normal silicone but it's tin cure I went for this instead of a platinum cure silicone because this kind of 3d printer resin if any of it isn't fully cured it will cause the Platinum silicone to not cure which is very sad so this stuff that mold max thirties tin cure and it will cure under almost any conditions so we should be all set but similar silicones called 29 Envy something else that smooth-on makes it's very similar to this but it's a thinner viscosity so you don't need to use your vacuum chamber or if you don't have a vacuum chamber hence the envy no vacuum while I'm doing this for a while I thought I'd take a moment to thank the members of our extra credit club those of you who are members here on youtube or over on patreon your support has not gone unnoticed thank you so much if you haven't already jumped in on the extra credit club you can join a number of ways we've got a website for it over on punished props calm you can get access to weekly behind the scenes blogs that we do here we also do an extra build discussion video for every one of our videos and also our build videos that come out on Monday if you're a member of the extra credit Club you can watch those on Friday well the Friday before not the Friday after you can watch it that if you want to that's fine anyway link down in the description to where you can go to find out everything you need to know about the extra credit Club and I thank you for your support means a lot I was pouring that in there and it's a lot lower than I thought it would be and then I looked at the side and noticed that it's bulging quite a lot if I were to pull this push this in you can see it's gonna fill up a lot more so I'm gonna just this chloroplast is just a little too flexible I should have used something more rigid so I'm gonna just sandwich some pieces of wood on the outside of this to keep it nice and flat that's better I hope okay cool I can continue to fill it up just using the last bit of the silicon here and it might be enough hopefully it's enough I don't want to have to mix more of this stuff that is a tiny leak you can see when I wipe that away it starts to pour out again so I just got some clay this is just plastilina clay that I use for my molds and I'm just gonna mash that over that spot and plug the leak there we go this isn't the prettiest mold I've made but it's one of the fastest we have to let this cure and it's boy pretty close to beer o'clock so I'm gonna head home and let this thing cure overnight it is cured sometimes whether it's intentional or not you have to cut apart a silicone mold to do that you need well you need some tools for that and I've got them right here for a lot of the cutting I'll use this really thin scalpel so I can sneak it in between the halves of the mold that I'm cutting apart but the most important one is this knife which I made myself and that's a mold knife you can buy these or you can modify an exacto knife like I've done to make it wavy so that when you cut a piece of silicone like so it leaves registration so it wants to stay together now this blade is what I made myself and I'll show you how I made it the first and important thing most important thing is that these blades are hardened steel so if you try and bend them like so point it away from my face they'll snap and that's not what we want so we have to heat them up first now I usually use a blowtorch but I'm gonna see if I can do it with this lighter we just need to heat it up so that it's red-hot and then it will be soft enough for us to manipulate the thing to remember about this annealing is that it's permanent this metal and unless you go back and harden it again it will stay soft so we can get our blade bent to the shape that we want but it will be soft so it's important thing to remember let's see if that's soft enough now to bend it without breaking I'm just gonna hit it with a blowtorch just to be a little quicker there we go now that's really hot make sure we don't touch it I should be able to bend a little loop in it there so we just want like this little indent just like so and then kind of bring it back and level out the tip of the blade now remember this is still hot you don't want to touch it but now there's that loop in there so that again when I cut my silicone I'll end up with that indent this is the old blade that I'm replacing you can see just how easy it is to bend especially that tip and that that'll end up wearing out over time so I can swap that out for my new one which has cooled down now and then we can give it a shot and see how well it works that's exactly what we want we had that nice registration now and this will cut along the seam and you can turn it as you go if you want to create some extra registration like that so now you have this groove in there and when the two halves of the mold come together they will seat pretty well together pretty well all right let's go cut apart our mold okay we can take our improvised mold walls off that looks like it came out okay I think I want to try and unscrew the bottoms those go into our dagger now it may crack the model on the way out I'm not sure but we have our mold made so we should be alright let me get a screwdriver here's hoping well it's spinning loose that's good and it's coming out alright Wow that was a lot faster out with you it's gonna trim away the hot glue that should be the only thing holding this together I hope you know what I'm gonna carve the Box open I think that'll that'll help us something I did not foresee using this chloroplast which again I would recommend not using is that the silicon actually snuck under and started seeping up into the walls it may be hard to see on camera but the silicon is filled up to about here which meant I kept having to pour more silicon in the top of it to top it off but I got it to work again this is not recommended I usually use like a stiffer plastic foam core is pretty good sometimes you have to reinforce it though but like it's hard to go wrong with half-inch plywood got my own Zoidberg costume now I can go around and clean up these edges so my mold looks all pretty I can go away this is our block of silicone and the dagger is suspended in the middle of it and about that orientation I'll have to cut a sprue on the end of here for pouring it but first I'm gonna cut a seam down the side and I'm just gonna do it down one side I don't need to cut this totally apart I'll start by cutting a line down the middle on one side and on the top here but I'm gonna cut it kind of wavy I'll show you so I'm kind of going back and forth as I cut the tip is kind of on the same axis but as I go down the side you can see I'm being kind of wavy this isn't all the way down to our part yet but that's gonna help us with a little bit of registration now you even if you don't have a mold cutting knife or if you didn't make one you could cut apart the mold like this with just an exacto knife if you needed to and just as you cut you add more and more layers of registration and just start working your way down until you your model as it gets closer to the model though that's when I'll grab my curvy knife here and try and get the tip of it that very tip to just graze the surface of the model does take a bit of patience to get this to work really well however it's a lot quicker to do it this way then to do a full-on two-part mold you have to clay up half of the mold and then pour half your silicone and then let it cure overnight and then do the same thing on the other side the next day this cuts out a whole day worth of work slow and steady I'm trying to cut this so that the seam ends up on the edge of the dagger blade it's not the end of the world if it doesn't but that could help us have a much cleaner casting half of our mold is open now which she'll be able to get the dagger out except for one very important thing there are a couple of parts where the silicone passed all the way through so those have to be cut as well so I'm just gonna pull them out and trim like so and those should lock back together again once we have to do our casting you just have a four more of them here so I'll pull them out try and cut them like halfway down there it is she'll be able to pull the dagger out now perfect look at that a little piece that did break out there but otherwise the mold looks pretty good these should lock together with all this registration we cut in the last thing I need to do is just cut a wider mouth for us to pour resin and I can do that I'm just gonna cut a slot like that and you can see that leaves us with a little more room to pour I'll need more than that so I'm gonna I'm gonna trim some more there we go that's pretty good I'll I'll wind that a little bit I just poked myself I might want to cut a trench up here event as well so that when I pour liquid in air can get out this is where we're gonna pour resin in but as the liquid resin goes in if it closes if enough liquid closes this whole air can't get out which means liquid can't get in so I'm gonna cut a vent in the mold from his down low as possible on the mold up the side and back up to the top so that air can escape I'd love to go all the way down to the tip but I don't think I have I can't really reach it so I'll gonna as far as I can I'm just gonna cut a small V groove into the mold it's time to do our first test cast so I've got my mold here making sure that it's pretty clean in there aren't any specks of silicone floating around up I see some in there looking good I cut out some pieces of quarter inch MDF this should be strong enough to be our mold wall that we can clamp it together all pretty like so yeah we're ready to cast and I'm going to first put baby powder in the mold this will help break the surface tension on the resin going into the mold and help it capture all that wonderful detail that we worked so hard to get in the mold sort of bounce that around in there get it to coat all the surfaces which it looks like it has and then we can just get rid of the excess over in the garbage that's what it looks like on the inside of the mold there I just want to make sure there isn't any baby powder in the tip of the dagger and then I have a can of air or an air compressor would work just gonna blast it in there make sure there isn't any if there's a bit of baby powder clumped up anywhere in the mold when you cast resin into it that'll turn into a void and we don't want that got my mold walls here and then I will hold everything together with some big old rubber bands I like using rubber bands for this they're cheap I have lots of them and they provide a good amount of even pressure all the way around the mold although for a long mold like this I want to make sure I put rubber bands all along the length of it and believe it or not can bow on the middle when you add all that liquid weight it'll accumulate here and out and we don't want that for our casting I'm using smooth-cast 300 it's a very standard urethane resin and it cures quickly mix those up what a pigment this a color probably just gray this particular resin cures bright white and I don't want it to be bright white it's hard to film so I'm gonna mix in a little bit of this black tint that will turn the final cured piece gray if I put red in there it would turn it pink I'll mix the tint in with the side B because it's a little thicker than the side a I'll do that ahead of time to make it a little easier on myself once I pour this in there and then the clock is ticking yellow kids still saying Yolo I don't know now I guess that this is about a hundred and fifty milliliters for the casting and we're about to find out if I was right down the hatch that looks pretty good there isn't a lot of sprue there so I do want to make sure it's filled up really well also it will eventually fill up this this vent over here as the air leaks out the bottom so I want to make sure I have a lot in there maybe squeeze it see if I knock a few bubbles free that's probably good now it's not necessary to throw this in a pressure pot but I have one so I'm gonna do it make sure we have no bubbles that goes in there please don't fall down putting some heavy stuff in there to keep it from falling over top goes on and we're gonna bring it up to about 40 psi starting now time to let the air out the resin is all cured and it's time to take apart our mold and see how it turned out who put all these rubber bands on here that looks pretty good the the resin is still as we would call it green which means it's still pliable and soft so I think I'm gonna let it rest in the mold for another let's say ten minutes and then we'll pull it out we waited a little longer wouldn't had lunch and now I think we can deem old our dagger with confidence comes right out nice that looks great and get rid of my is our vent don't need that and we are set up to cast another one if we like casting turned out pretty great this side obviously no seam we did not cut that side on the other side the scene was right along the edge of the blade you can't really see it there there's a little bit peeking through there that we can clean up with some sandpaper and then there's gonna be seam lines on the inside of these parts but even those are fairly minimal so our quick and dirty mold worked great now that our urethane casting is done why don't we drop it just like we did with the raw 3d print and see how well it fares okay dropping the urethane dagger and go [Music] it's amazing how much the urethane bends when it hit the ground but it did not break proof positive that it was worth making that mold and casting it out of urethane now I can cast another I can cast as many of these as I want so I think what we're gonna do is get fancy with some resins and make another one for this casting I swapped out to 326 if I had 2025 I'd use that because it cures a little bit faster but this is a color match resin so I want to cast the whole dagger in a really neat color and then I'll paint over a lot of it except for the beveled edges here they're gonna be a purple eye means I need to go get some pigments or tints for my resin careful just like before I'm gonna mix some of this tint in with my side B the difference is this stuff cures clear instead of bright white so we're gonna get this really dark purple that's so super purple in our final casting but I'm also going to put in some pearly blue that should give it a little bit of a an iridescent shine oh it's so shiny should add more okay Britt oh okay that looks really cool now that I have my tint and that casting powder mixed in I can mix in my side a this stuff does have a long cure time so I do have a little bit of time to work with it I don't have to rush but I am going to mix it in this Cup taking care to scrape the sides really well and then I'm going to pour it in another cup and mix it again in there this this resin here if you don't get it mixed perfectly thoroughly you can get streaks and since it's mostly transparent you will see the streaks and that's bad so mix it in one cup pour it in the other Cup and mix it again and then we can pour it in our mold and then we will also throw this in the vacuum chamber like the fourth it looks so cool and you go just about topped off this will go in the pressure pot this stuff takes about an hour to cure but I'm probably gonna leave it for at least hour and a half just to make sure it's nice and nice and cured it's been about an hour and a half and the remainder of the resin in my cup is cured I can probably yeah pop it right out of there that looks really cool that means that the resin in the pressure pot is fully cured so I can pop it out of there a little bit of leaking that's okay Oh looks really cool it is still kind of flimsy as well like before so I can get rid of that guy there that's our pouring or our event but anyway I am gonna leave this closed for a little while longer for it to fully stiffen up this is the vent what's left of it anyway and you can see it's still extremely flexible so we're gonna let this cure a while longer in the mold until this is rigid enough that when I bend it it snaps that mean it's fully cured been about another hour and I'm getting impatient so I'm gonna take this thing out of the mold see how it looks it's so pretty it's still a little flimsy so maybe I'll leave it out of the mold for a little while to cure but but yeah yeah that's a pretty dagger a little bit of a seam in here so I'm just cleaning that up with this file I've got a little bit of a seam on the edge here too is where we cut the mold open so I'm gonna have to clean that up a little bit with some sandpaper and files something I'd like to do before we move too far on the finishing job is these screw heads I want to replace them with real screws so I've got a bunch of leftover screws from nerf guns I just collect these when I take apart nerf guns and they look cool they've been painted black and I kind of want them to look a little bit neater so I'll buff it a little bit with some scouring pad and there's a little bit of a metallic shine peeking through so I think that's what it'll look like in the final part but before I attach those I'm gonna drill these holes out so that the screw head will fit right in there there's also smaller screws here I'll do the same thing I have some smaller nerf screws over here that I'll use to round over the edges of that hole I just drilled I'm just using a dremel bit and spinning it and just giving a little bevel around the edge of it there these screws are just gonna be decorative I don't need the actual threaded part in fact it's gonna get in the way so I'm just using this cutoff wheel on my rotary tool here to trim that off I also have this fancy pair of pliers that holds the screw come out of the front of it there which is super helpful there we go just need a bunch more of those I got the seams all cleaned up on this fellow with a little bit of elbow grease and some files and sanding paper and then I went and scuffed up the entire surface with some sandpaper in a scouring pad just to give the paint a little something to grab on to before I spray some paint on here I'm gonna use some alcohol to wipe down the surface get all the dust off there and make sure it's nice and clean and then I'm gonna go and spray it with some crystal clear spray paint this is a gloss that'll leave a nice shiny surface on our entire prop I spray it on two good coats of clear that crystal clear it's nice and shiny now I gave it an adequate amount of time to dry it's dry enough to handle it so I'm gonna move on and mask off the edges it's all gonna get painted except for these bevels on the edge of the blade so I'm gonna mass is off like that I think I want a fine edge up there but I'll trim that later I just want to make sure I cover the whole thing now I want to trim a little edge off the masking tape there so I've got my compass here and I've set it just about as small as it can go and I can follow this line and draw that offset that I want it's doing okay it's kind of showing up now I just have to follow that line freehand no problem right let go there we go that's exactly what I wanted fantastic I loaded up some gunmetal colored paint in my airbrush here and I'm gonna cover everything it cupped of course the areas where we masked like I'm gonna looks pretty nice there's one more color this circle with a X in it is gonna be gold so I need to mask that off I just took a piece of masking tape got a circle in it should be the right size poke it down and around that with a pen that should work just go over to the airbrush and finish this thing off it's time for the really fun part pull it off our masking tape carefully ooh oh that's nice well it looks it looks so super super clean I may not even weather this oh that looks so cool I think the last thing to do is just glue those screw heads in and I'll be all done [Music] [Music] this thing turned out so cool and of course I couldn't help myself I had to go in and do just a little bit a tiny bit of weathering just to call out some of the really sharp detail on here with a little bit of a black wash with acrylic paint in there helps it all pop out really well I want to thank matter hackers and peopple II for sending us the moai 200 to play with for a prop like this being able to print something with this find a detail this big all in one shot was pretty fantastic and I had a good time doing it so thank you guys so much we'll have information about that printer and matter hackers down below if you want to go check that out for your self that's gonna do it for this project I had a ton of fun doing this I hope you had a good time following along I want to thank our extra credit club for the support over on patreon and right here on youtube you can hit that membership button get access to some behind the scenes content some exclusive behind-the-scenes content thank you so much for the support and thank you so much for watching if you want to follow along ah the link to the files that Juri sells for this particular dagger and of course all the materials and tools that I used are in the project those will be linked down below as well thanks as always for hanging out with me in the shop today I hope you stick around subscribe hit that Bell cuz we got some awesome projects coming up every single week you don't want to miss it I'll catch you in the next one okay here we go and dropping now I thought for sure it would shatter but it bounced

Channel: Punished Props Academy

Views: 420,701

Rating: 4.9039626 out of 5

Keywords: Apex Legends, Apex, wraith, heirloom, dagger, cosplay, props, wraith heirloom, apex legends cosplay, how to, how to make, 3d printing, moai 200, casting, resin, mold making, 3d print, bill doran, punished props, punished props academy, prop making, cosplay tutorial, replica prop, 3d printer, DIY, How To, Wraith cosplay, wraith apex legends cosplay, 3d printing time lapse, moai 200 sla printer, Apex Legends Wraith, apex legends wraith Heirloom, Wraith Heirloom Knife

Id: J7njc7HciTg

Length: 45min 44sec (2744 seconds)

Published: Mon Apr 22 2019