Anvil 095: Remington 81 Reset

in this episode bruno finds a bargain heat damaged finish baked on oil cosmoline scrapers are the word of the day don't screw the wood up and you won't have a whole lot of sanding to do oil finished goodness contain that spring force the lights in your shop will appreciate it look at that blueing remington used to build a beautiful gun a remington model 81 wow and i'm going to tell you what it's a beautiful rifle but it hasn't ever had any maintenance done to it and judging from the fact that none of the screws in this thing are screwed up i'd be willing to bet you that this probably hasn't been taken apart since that was made right after world war ii bruno is telling me that the difference there are some cosmetic differences pistol grip stocks things like that but this 81's got some issues and we're going to talk about more stock work because this thing has a stock failure that's common that i want to show you about and just the intense glock loading deep dive into a gun that will hurt you more taking it apart than if you shoot it let's go down the rabbit hole guys this is a deep one and off we go sometimes it doesn't matter how good your metal maintenance is if you keep this thing in an area that's hot this stock has gotten hot and you can see where this finish has just died it crinkled up i have a couple of theories about this one is that the finish moves in the wood doesn't and another theory that holds on those polyurethane japanese browning guns is that the wood moves and the finish doesn't either way this is all gonna have to go this particular gun actually belongs to bruno and he was able to buy this gun as an extremely good deal because in the words of the immortal bruno he knew a guy now the metal on this gun has got some kind of sticky looking glock all over it good god look at this we were scrubbing a little bit of this off before the bolt the bolt all of this black stuff here is not the bolt all of that black stuff is dried on i don't know lubricant so there's two things that are going to happen to this one's going to be the full conversion where we're going to go through and boil this action in water and get down to what i'm going to tell you was a stunning finish underneath it and i don't know if this camera is even doing this finish justice there's no rust on this gun this thing is going to be stunning and having said that i'm going to tell you this that right there doesn't feel like dirt anyway clean this up we'll strip this wood down now we're going to see all the things that we did in the 03 and the 98k episode are now going to come in and we're going to apply these to a stock that we want to close the pores we want to make it look good we don't have any military cartridges this is just a straight up in off the street save bruno walked in here today and said man i got this gun for 25 of what it's worth because it was in terrible condition let's go prove someone otherwise a buck in books saves a grand in stupid a university professor friend of mine henry said that i keep all gun parts corp catalogs i keep all kinds of stuff because even though what's in them doesn't mean anything right there see that remington model 8 and model 81 now this book isn't telling us much this book is telling us that you know there are parts in it wow look at that that's yeah that side yeah yeah that kind of looks the same that's really incredibly cool well there we go another book well look at that that's showing us well there's some components that i recognize i'll get that out of here yeah there are some components that i recognize look at that that's crazy wow that's even our trigger group hmm who knew okay well this book isn't quite getting it this is an old jack first catalog and i'm going to tell you what when you run out of options go look at jack first um they've moved they've upstalled they've downscaled they've done a lot of things but they still are very very good at what they do this particular jack first catalog that i have is god it's got to be 30 freaking years old so don't look at any of the prices in it don't quote them on it but this has more but it's not enough now i've had this book out before and this is my well it's not gunsmith's data this is a book that brownells put out a long time ago and it's been reprinted and reprinted and reprinted and i've scabbed through it and all kinds of stuff and in this particular book there's a chapter on the remington model 81. ah now we're getting somewhere because not only do we have the rifle and all the parts laid out we also have how to disassemble this is where the grand in wisdom is laying right here because i'm going to tell you what this gun if not respected will jump off this table and bite you in the ass this is what we would really like the stock on this gun to look like we'd like it to be nice and smooth we'd like it to be oil finished we would like it to do a lot of things i started in on this a little bit early in order to get it to a point where it doesn't look like this there you go so this is what this stock looks like after it came out of i don't know but it was subjected to a lot of heat you can see where it the the the finish is crinkled like right uh there you can see the crinkling in it so the things we investigated with the 03 springfield and with the um with that 98k was the use of a scraper now there are a lot of people that are going to swear that the way to take the old finish off a gun is to just use chemicals caustics sandpaper and yet i would have to tell you that with a nice sharp scraper that's bare walnuts starting to show right there let's see if we can get a good picture of it there it is that's walnut and that's actually smooth we won't have to go much below about a 150 grit to get after that let me get the light better here we go there's the light um now for a quick tutorial on sharpening these scrapers i did something called sanding explain there's a little video i'll see if we can include something here for it but what the scraper is is it has a very slight burr that's been rolled right up here on the edge and it does a really great job and there's been a lot of people talking about while i use glass okay that's good you can use glass except that i can flex this scraper ever so slightly in both directions to get it to do what i want to do there are also multiple ways that you can put this edge on you can have no edge at all which is what the glass has it just comes up to a 90 degree point there but in this particular case i have this thing not the burr isn't like that the burr on this one is up like this with a slight hook and that's just all in how you use your burnishing tool so i can change the angle of this to get what i want i can cut on the push the real issue i have with caustics is right now this wood the pores are actually still closed on it we can sand this wood down and it'll actually not look too bad and it will not require a whole lot of absorption on the part of your oils this is some 150 sandpaper here and this is about all i'm going to use all right now we're going to do the whole stock what i'm trying to tell you is is that i've said before that the best way to not screw something like this up is to just not screw it up in the first place and i mean that's about all the more sanding i'm going to give that we can just take a little bit of water here and that's what the wood's going to look like if we finished it blonde and there it is there's no sanding streaks in it there's nothing and i mean that's how fast you can prep one of these things you'll note i have this mounted on my checkering cradle and in the back back here i have a screw that is just a regular phillips screw like i've done before because i want to have the butt plate on this thing and you see that shiny line i want the butt plate on this while i'm doing this work because i don't want to run the risk of rolling edge over in the back b b keep moving from different parts of the stock to other parts of the stock because you don't want to focus on one little area and then you wind up with a divot here you're taking the finish off the entire stock not off of several small pieces at once be mindful to keep sharp edges sharp don't roll over that's what i was talking about back in the butt plate area you don't want to roll over this so just keep your keep your p's and cues about you this is what a piece of glass will not allow you to do it will not allow you to come up inside these curved areas and peel up underneath this thumb part this thumb piece go slow and take your time and you'll be fine what we are really trying to make sure we don't do is roll up over this edge with the sharp edge that way and you'll wind up a little cut right there and we don't want to do that you'll figure it out when you get there now you see what i just did i rolled that up and i just told you to not do that now i'll fix it but don't do that now i'm going to blame that on not being able to get my hands in front of the camera and we'll just that's my story and i'm sticking to it there there we go i got one more tool i'm going to have to get to get a little bit further up in here now you can use a file this is an extremely smooth chain file you can just you can work this off you got to keep moving and you got to make sure you don't want to stop and then that removes that smut from up inside here something i want to note here this edge on the top is sharp and it has a delineation too you can see that that shadow going underneath it this edge is just a smooth smooth roll out this isn't a um a delineated edge here so this comes up and then rolls straight out right there more on cross lighting stuff when you're looking at it as we get this thing down naked and we start having to sand it and so far we're not moving any wood we're moving this pottery stuff and this is just the old finish coming off we haven't really moved any wood yet we haven't changed any contours we haven't ruined any edges you gotta be real careful on these sharp edges and you can tell when a gun's been refinished like back in the 50s and the thing will just every single edge on a gun will be round i've got one in here that looks like it had been sanded with a with a draining wheel i'll show you it's smooth it's beautiful the finish is a quarter of an inch thick but really really well executed crap so i was asked the question how thick well this is about 30 something thousand inches thick but the most important part is that it's spring it can be flexed so that you can flex it with your hand when i'm pushing down with my thumb here there's a slight flex to it and you'll know if you're going the wrong way the wood will tell you if you're going the wrong way but right now we're not moving any wood we're just getting pieces of finish off thank you do so now this stuff is as hard as a rock right here get it refocused there we go so you can cheat you see it's starting to melt it's bubbling up this is what happened in that attic it just got so hot it bubbled up so we're just gonna go ahead and finish the job here and get this all to crinkle now let's add another couple years here and we'll let that really really bake and it makes all that finish look at that it's got it's got direction to it and green look at that yikes there we go this uh starting to look better just like when we did the 03 stock just take your time you're not in a hurry here especially if you're only doing one of these things learn what you need to learn learn how to sharpen a scraper practice on something that's not great uncle lumpy fratz's browning and go from there so so ordinarily if you're prepping this stock and there's a checkering field right here you don't have to get stupid with how you strip it you're just going to check her over it anyway but in this case this gun came without um checkering and it's going to leave that way unless bruno tells me to checker it which i don't know um we'll see what he says but for right now i'm actually filming this myself with the complete autonomy here i'm the only guy in his shop josh is here but he didn't know anything more about filming and i do so we're just going to kind of group grope our way through it get that good and bubbled up there now i'm getting away with going across grain here because i'm not moving a lot of wood if i was starting to move wood and i was cutting like that we would be in a bad place because the we'd start putting scratches in a wood that would have to be sanded out that would bring this below flush and then it would look like somebody was here and the real pro can get in and get out and we never knew he was there and that's the trick so as long as i'm just making dust you can get away with that that little last little camera bump will give you some idea how close i i have this camera the camera lens is like physically like right here so bear with me all right there we go foreign uh so what are we witnessing here we're looking at the fact that this is actually a depression so sometime in this gun's life this wood is shrunk and the center of this is either sunk down or the machine that they cut it on put a slight concavity there and the way to get through that in my world is to just keep cutting and i'm putting a very slight flex on the blade by pushing down with my index finger and just see if i can get into the middle of this here and letting the outside of the grip level up which should have been done in the first place okay we're going to crystallize this stuff yeah that was a puff of smoke you saw come off of that i got that a tad bit too hot but it also allowed us to come through here resist the temptation to roll this off this edge needs to be not sharp it's kind of like an eighth note it's not held but it's still an eighth note so you have to be able to if this is sharp its surface area will go to infinity and therefore i'm sorry the any pressure applied to an infinitely small area gives you infinite pressure so you need just enough area on this we want what's called break the edge but you don't want to round it off by breaking the edge finish will stick all the way around the corner your stain will stick around and it'll look good but it won't look like somebody just went after it with a piece of sandpaper all right believe it or not we have just stripped the finish completely off of a remington model 81. oh i'm sorry i got a little bit left right there i spoke too soon anyway back with the sandpaper so i went and got a tub of water here it's got a rag in it and we'll need that rag here in a little bit so this is where having the butt plate on the stock while you're sanding it really keeps you from making the back end look bad now am i going to scuff this pad up yeah i'll buff it down with a little bit of six or 800 grit sandpaper and we'll just roll on a little bit of rust blue let it rust up a little bit run it through the rest of the parts and not a problem you don't have to have it on this rotisserie you don't i prefer it just because i find that it gives me two hands to sand with instead of one for the rigging and one for the ship that's a navy saying guys i don't know if you picked up on that because we remove this finish with a scraper we don't have very many if any longitudinal scrape lines and this is a basic but decent piece of wood yeah that's not too bad all right as opposed to say we haven't even sanded over here yet at all we'll come and get all this equally wet a lot of people tell you use a bare minimum amount of water yeah well guess what the good lord doesn't rain on this thing with a bare minimum amount of rain you better use what you got to use and find out whether or not the grain's going to stand up or not let me pull these lights back on here very good all right this is not a hair dryer this is an industrial heat gun if you stay in one spot on this stock long enough it will turn darker we'll burn it i can see a little bit of oil right here a little bit more sanding to do but not much so let's get this water dried off this thing the act of doing that raises the grain and you feel it it feels fuzzy and we're just going to keep cutting that fuzz off until it stops feeling that way now the other thing i want you to see is this even though we cut all of that finish off the top this is dried on finish and oil that have been getting together and filling up the pores on my sandpaper and since this is such an economical evolution on sandpaper just get another piece when it gets too bad that stuff will start leaving streaks so just pick up another piece felt pad you could do it with a piece of wood if you really wanted to but uh just don't do a scottish fold don't do a full folding and go after this by hand it'll just have all these little roller coaster style undulations all over them and after two or three of those whiskerings which is what that's called when you take that towel to it this thing will stop raising rain as we go now as you roll over these things up here and i know i'm not focused up there but as you roll over this make sure you don't make dents you don't want to roll the edges over you want to leave it sharp uh this is what seven i don't know i've lost track i've lost count that's one of the other reasons why you have bruno run your camera so he can keep up with all this crap because i got a low battery warning light here i've got chargers flashing at me i've got all kinds of stuff doing the work and filming it is virtually impossible and this is why i have bruno helping me he keeps track of all of that detail like did i just film for five minutes and get anything um he knows what tape we're on he has to line the audio up with the video so i'm also wearing a lavalier which has a chip in it and he's got to keep track of where all that video winds up in that machine and then smash it all together in our editing program we use premiere pro and we use a separate lavalier with a mic that we are constantly fighting with the fact that my vocal intonations bounce all over the place so he has to level all that audio out and there's a lot of work that goes into this that isn't me saying in this stock so in order for you guys to be able to watch this you got to remember that bruno's got to kill two days sometimes three in this case this episode's going to shoot through four days because we gotta wait for the oil to set up so you can see the end here that's a lot of effort on the man's part so it's not all what i'm doing a lot of us what he's doing too all right we're getting close here and that's going to leave the last part that i want to pay some attention to which is this dipsy doodle right here and i mean this is a dip i'm gonna see if i can get that cross lit as that comes across there's a divot right there it's bad enough that i messed it up with the scraper so i'm gonna have to paint a piper here and scrub through this okay i didn't mess that up too bad those cross grain scratches are coming right out and some of them actually look like they're in the wood yeah those aren't scratches that's actually like curl okay that's cool that's good i just want to make sure i'm not gonna cause that again we're not rounding this edge over we are just breaking it same thing up here you don't want this sharp um it's it's not sharp i don't know i still remember my piano teacher beating eighth notes into me they are not held okay all right i'm getting there okay i'm coming to the conclusion that the wood on this side isn't isn't stained that's just the color of the wood that's green popping up this is all smooth here i believe that that's not oil i think that's actually green in the wood showing there and we'll see here all right we missed a little spot up there all right i've been asked a lot about what my issues are with lin speed and i have no problem with lin speed i just haven't made friends with it because i typically don't have the time to wait on it or i choose to not have the time to wait on it it's just me i don't have a problem with the product who made it i just haven't made friends with it yet and i've said that before and i'll probably wind up saying it again all right we got a little spot right there that just needs to be re-sanded let's get this thing dry one last time let's get some oil on this thing so ah yes smoother than the baby's backside nice actually feels pretty good okay give her a nice final touch up there okay had to finish this thing alone in the shop uh because we mixed this mixture of van der heef formula 13 that military red the brown and then the black i mixed all this up because we started filming this thing about five days ago four days ago and then we got separated bruno and i got separated and he's um off doing very important things right now and the problem i was having was is this oil will hold for a while it will hold it'll stay open for three four five days but we're getting near the point where i needed to get some oil on this stock just to get the base color established and then bruno and i can get back to shooting uh shooting video again in fact as it sits this amble's going to hold some kind of record because it's going to have taken us a week and a half to film it so you just got to do what you got to do and i got on about doing it all right so now the oil's going on and i'm running out of it i'll get about two coats of this on and what we're doing is we're brushing it on and we're allowing it to absorb this really isn't a coat it's an application and we're just going to let it soak in as well as it can and then we'll come back in about 15 minutes or so and we'll rub it in with our hands and let's see here we get those off chip brush this is like a i don't know a 55 or 60 cent i don't know what they cost but use these chip brushes for this kind of stuff especially when you're doing applications because they're cheap and you can throw them in a garbage can and you can get them at any hardware store i got a message from a guy that sent away for a toilet bowl ring and i think i don't know where he lives but they don't use them in his country so he sent to the united states for a chinese-made toilet bowl ring to have it sent back to his country and the whole point about using the toilet wax was that it was cheap and quick and you could get it and this guy this poor guy god he probably spent a hundred dollars putting something on when he could have just got some beeswax from the local apiary so i want you guys to understand the whole drive behind what we're doing here is that it can be done and it can be done with locally sourced materials and then it can be done correctly that way and what you're going to sacrifice is a little bit of time is what's going to happen all right we're going to let this set and we'll be back in about two minutes three minutes once it sets i'll put a little bit more on so the oil's been on here now for a couple minutes soaking in and we're gonna come back to what we're looking at here and you say yeah this is browner this piece of wood is browner it won't be when we get all this stuff mopped off the top and i'll show you what i'm talking about here so once you're not looking through that stain you can see that the colors are going to roll out about the same here now this thing is three coats of oil and um two buff outs with the scotch brite pad a really really really non-aggressive scotch brite pad ahead of this this will now catch up and the two guns will be in the same spot when we're all done it'll have about five maybe six coats of oil on it we'll buff it down it'll look correct and most importantly if it gets dinged in the field it's really easy to repair this has three of the ons with the oil i'll let the oil you know rub it off let it oxidize another application oil i'm getting down to the point now where it's about time to rub this thing out this is just an ordinary piece of steel wool you don't have to worry about degreasing it because if there's oil in the wool guess what we just put oil on the stock and you just come in and you rub it down until it gets this nice sheen and you can see now you can get crazy with this you can do what the london guys do you know when there are 20 30 layers of oil rub outs buffings um rotten stone and that's great because they're they're doing weapons that people are paying that much money for in our particular case it's a field gun so after about five or six applications you're just kind of wasting your time anyway there you go that's it now this would be fine like this we will wax it probably before we send it out in the weather and it'll look great well that was nice but we're going to take this out of here and just let it sit in a cradle it doesn't need to go anywhere yeah right there look at that that receiver is nuts how nice that came out this is what was hiding underneath all of that baked on gak look at that that's nice now this hasn't been oiled it's just got a little bit of kerosene on it and then we do a before of this and then what it looked like now that it's done all we did was a straight up conversion boiled in a little bit of dihydrogen monoxide and then rubbed it all uh you know rubbed it all off uh conversion 101 i've got an entire tab for how to do that a question i've been asked a lot is how do i card the inside of this we've carted the outside of it we just carted with a toothbrush let me just go in here and scrub it off it's not that hard you can take all this stuff in here that's been look at all that orange stuff can you just go in there and scrub it out with a toothbrush you can then go in and oil it with a set of oil toothbrushes and it'll look just great so that's how you get off the inside and then the inside of the bore of course you just take a regular old bore brush and scrub it out so i saw something while we were putting this back together again is someone attempted to help this screw out and what they tried to do was take the mainspring out before the gun was out of the uh the stock and it mauled the head up so don't just go in here with a file some of you that have been watching me for a while have seen me do this before polish two ounce ball paint and we're just going to beat all of this excess metal back where it belongs so now i've pounded all that high that proud metal back to where it belongs and then we take it and we turn it on inside like this and we just tap it so that we knock those edges back in and then we put it back in the hole for those of you that are wondering this is a jeweler's bench block this particular one was made in the 1950s you don't need a jeweler's bench block i just happen to have one there are handy pieces of kit but they're collector's items so we'll just take the hang saw here and just clean that slot up ever so slightly well that's all we're doing is just knocking the sides off what's in there we're not removing a lot of metal we're just using the saw as a single roll file okay and then we'll pop this out and we'll stick it in a drill so i'm not looking in the monitor right now so i'm thinking okay we're going to just chuck it in this drill wrong way just going to chuck it and drill like that and then take a file this is a piece of 320 grit sandpaper nothing fancy just i don't know how well that's showing up and focus on that screw head there you go so now that screw it doesn't have any mangled uh edges on it and it's a lot cleaner and you can cold blue this you could heat it up with a torch and turn it blue do a lot of things i'm going to heat it up with a torch and turn it blue and dunk in a little bit oil done it before thousands of times just take care of your screws but the first thing you reach for is not your file the first thing you reach for is your hammer so here's that screw now mounted back in the gun and it looks a lot better somebody mistook that screw that holds in the main spring for the screw that holds the action and couldn't get it out mauled it and quit and that's all much further they got it apart so now we've got the entire gun put back pretty much all the sub assemblies redone and we used our photographs to help us get through that the stock is done and has been polished the foreign's done and has been polished out you can put some wax over this and it really doesn't matter there's something i did want to say here it doesn't matter if you use oil if you use lint speed if you use true oil if you use polyurethane it doesn't matter the wood prep is all the same and that's where you're heading from so anyway this thing is beautiful let me tack this thing back together again the fire control group mounts up in the bottom you've got a a screw that goes through there a pin that holds it in there and then that screw goes up and then the rest of it just screws back together again no big deal in the beginning of this i talked about the fact that there was a large spring in here and here it is right here that spring right there is the same spring that you find on an a5 the a5 has a pretty epic recoil spring that's located down here this recoil spring on this thing is up inside the jacket and we need to release that energy in such a way that it isn't going to hurt us so now in the interest of full disclosure i've already had this thing apart it's been um it's been converted and all of the gack was boiled off of it and i'm going to tell you what we didn't just spin this ring off when it got here because this thing looked like ah see what i'm talking about so we know that this is loose we can pull back back here we know that this is loose and can be taken off now so what we're going to do is we are going to actually take this off and if you have to you can pull back and just put a piece of flat stock in there and spin this off okay so let me i'm reaching in front of the camera here but let me go ahead and get this off here it's still tough and it's been lubricated all right there we go it's not going to explode on you this is going to pop out because this inner ring here this is the barrel and this ring is threaded to the barrel and then there's a washer that won't fit over it pushing forward on the barrel group so you take the bushing out first and just get it out of the way now in order to control all this energy we're going to slide a rod down the barrel like that and what that rod does you can put a couple of washers a couple of nuts this is a quarter twenty rod i think in metric this would work out to about a six millimeter rod take a six millimeter rod throw it down there or whatever your caliber is this is a 30 caliber weapon so it's 762 so six millimeter rod is going to fit what we want though is is that when this spring explodes we want this whole stack to wind up on this rod and not kinked in half so to get this off there's a hole located in it right there and you take the cheesiest looking spanner you can possibly scab together for a video and you'll hook it in that hole right there and that gives you enough leverage to begin turning this now this is where you got to capture this thing i'm going to put my hand back here like this and i'm just going to spin it off okay now that banging you're hearing the washer is corrugated on the front and this collar is corrugated on the back so it's doing this kind of deal like a set of gears so you can hear it knocking now you see my left hand back there i'm turning the barrel off but eventually all this spring pressure is going to come out of here you see that collar backing out there that's what the spring is pushing up against eventually that's just going to go bang there we go that's how you uncork that not blow it all over the room there is a keyway on the top of the barrel here you can actually see this keyway located right here and the top of this washer i don't even know if i can i'll get it back into view here hang on this washer has a key in it right there there's a key right there where the hell i i had it there it is there it is right there right above my thumb you see that little tit so that has to actually get compressed down onto the end of the barrel onto the keyway so to go back together again with this pig you get all of this mess in here and you can just push this down you see it in the spring doesn't kink and fly all over the place you find that little key way you get that up there on the top and you put this so that it pops down on the keyway like that and then you're holding it with the palm of your hand like this and you can just begin to thread it on and now it's trapped and now you can take this thing out of here oh my god he put a threaded rod down the barrel he's going to ruin the crown give me a break you guys are shooting steel jacketed ammo and i'm not on my steel case i'm not my steel jacketed ammo you're not going to hurt this barrel if you're just gentle enough with it okay so this goes all the way down see the end of the barrel starting to stick out now this will come down until it stops we can put our super cheese looking wrench on this and just give it a little bit of a scrinch that's it it's done and then this is now all captured so this can just very gently thread in and be careful because there's a lot of threads per inch and high thread per inch count means you can cross it and i'll tell you something screws do not cross on the way out they get cross on the way in we'll give this a touch of oil while we're putting it back together again because this is my final assembly here give it a touch of oil we boiled everything else on the inside but this is the one thing i want to show you and it scares people about monolakes and it should scare them because there's a lot of energy back there a lot of energy of course now i've oiled it my fingers are wet so you get to the end there you can pop the barrel through and just give it a turn and be gentle make sure you're pushing in so that you don't wind up scabbing up the metal everywhere and you don't have to kill this thing you just run it down until it touches off and that my friends is how you do that i'm going to do a little erzatz pen action here i'm going to cut the camera loose and what i want to show you guys is this is what's possible with a little bit of scraping and a little bit of time we've got what was underneath this all cleaned off you can even read the word safe it's not bad i think it came out right and we're getting this knack of being able to understand what they look like so yeah i think it came out great i think it came out great now we're still working the ammo problem on this this is in a essentially a rimless 30 30. we're working the ammo problem so we've got nothing to shoot it with so everybody's going to get all uptight about that you guys keep asking me well when's part two when you shoot it by the time we get back together again and film this gun is going to be on the other side out of here for about three weeks so and sometimes when i'm dropping these older anvils in here as we're redoing them i will have shot some of those animals two and a half years ago so i don't still have the gun but in the meantime this will get shot maybe we'll get you some footage of it but we've got to solve a pretty deep ammo problem but with uh with sexy like this and you bet we're going to go ahead and um you bet we're going to go ahead and find some mammal for it and run it so let's transition from safe to unsafe a lot of guys would say that i lit that cigar the wrong way and improperly they don't know how to overhaul model 81. the remington model 81 and i'm going to tell you what this thing is a thing of beauty and it's been a pleasure to kind of tear it down and show you guys what's possible with scraping and refinishing techniques that i have several videos out on and i just want to let you guys know that you can do it be gentle take your time and join me at the bottom of the rabbit hole and as always it's been a distinct pleasure to help you guys grab a tool and start screwing up you

Channel: Mark Novak

Views: 159,506

Rating: 4.9242244 out of 5

Keywords: #anvilgunsmithing, @anvilgunsmithing, Mark Novak, Anvil, Gunsmithing

Id: SraClK1Bo0s

Length: 59min 7sec (3547 seconds)

Published: Fri Feb 26 2021