Anvil 092: K98 major flood damage recovery

oh my in this episode proof that guns can't and should not be taught how to swim always buy the book first dynamiting out screws boil boil bubble in trouble don't wire wheel off to read the name cross bolt really bad scraping and removing distinguishedly screwed up finish said crossbow another save sometimes i just feel like i'm beside myself a k 98 that has obviously been stored in some sort of wet location this thing is so bad the guy that gave it to me honestly thought i was gonna cut it in half and uh and just take it out of the gene pool i don't know yet i think we can take this apart get a good look down and spore and see whether or not when we're done we can get it back to looking something like this this is what an old mill syrup should look like that's what this one looks like so start pre-breathing your helium folks because we're going to be on a deep dive and nitrogen is toxic at these depths down the rabbit hole and it's flooded so while we don't have a proper camera mount to do this bruno has given you a hand pan here of just how glocked up this thing is we've got wood here that's damaged rust growing out in blooms we've got cracks we've got impact damage we're missing parts but basically the whole thing is here and what we're going to do this is in two steps here we got to do the metal and on this one this is a gun we're going to do the wood on because this wood this is this is this is mold growing here um there's mold on this and then there's actual oxide jacking where the rust is pushing the wood away so i guess the first place we got to go here is um taking the front end of this thing off this nose metal are we in frame here this nose metal has been kind of shoved forward already so that someone could steal this forward locking band and i think i've got another one of those around and then all this wood is getting loose enough that this will come off okay so first place to be very very careful on a mauser is this bayonet log is a piece of of metal that is slipped up over the wood and held in with a cross pin and guys will come in and you'll see this and they'll put this this chisel down here and they'll whack on the end of this stock so hard like that that they will actually blow this entire piece of wood off and you wind up getting given this noseband attached to this piece with a bunch of wood sticking out of the front end of it not good so while this is in a laminated stock this um this is with the nose cap and it got hit and it got taffy pulled this thing got blown right off the front end of the stock and you can see here there was a little bit of oil soaking this is where a cross pin went through um and it's a weak spot in the stock so if you're just banging on that nose metal there is a very distinct possibility that the whole front end of the freaking gun will just pop off we want to push up here and up here and we want to push gently from a long way away with a heavy hammer you don't beat you beat you just tap on this you don't have to beat on it but what you're trying to not do is get up underneath into this piece of metal right here you don't want to get up underneath into this right there there's actually a piece of steel underneath that this comes off separately after the stock is taken apart so just remember that and if you had to use some oil this thing is so dry that i don't even want to put any oil on it just i want to convert it and i think it'll turn back black again so we take the front nose off and then this should be a little bit tighter if you have to light taps with a heavy hammer is much better than heavy taps with a light hammer you get a lot more control all we're doing is just milking this off here all right and then we'll see whether or not we stand at snowball's chance here on getting this apart oh my holy ever loving look at that well that's going to set the tone for the whole thing so right at this point everything we do is going to be driven towards looking inside the chamber and the board because if the inside of the bore looks like this i am going to cut the barrel off it and start over again well let's get the light on that screw right there that screw is pretty frogged up right there i put the angel piss on these screws while we were dropping the um dropping the chips from the opening here so we could have a a prayer possibly breaking them loose one of the things i want to mention right off that i should have said earlier this particular book right here this mouser 98 actions by a gentleman by the name of jerry king haasen all of mr kenosin's books and god i hope i'm pronouncing his name right our top freaking shelf this book is a gold mine so like i said when i was talking about the crag get the book before you really really get deep down inside something if you're going to bonafide anything get the book first awesome top shelf stuff and this is in the shop for reference during this entire video here okay so it was about 20 minutes ago i put some rust on there put some um i'm putting rust on put some oil on it so we get a screwdriver that fits and this screw does not have to be taken all the way out it only has to be rotated about a quarter of a turn we'll knock that down into the slot and then pushing down on the screwdriver fairly hard here we're losing the light pushing down on it okay that crack we got lucky lots of force screwdriver tips that fill the slot and all that mess is what you're hunting okay we might well this one's actually going to come all the way out for us all right okay not bad so i've said in the past that one of the places you get in trouble with these screws is right here on the side of the head gets glued into the mortise the threads on this thing are actually pretty clean i'll lay this out on a rag we might get back and take a look at all of the screws as they came out of the gun later the first thing i need to do with this action right now is get it out see if we can get the bolt open and i'm not even sure we can we got to get this thing hanging in a conversion pot so we can see whether or not there's any bore if the bore is all the way gone none of this effort is going to be worth it all right we'll just extract this guy trying to stay out of the light all right we're going to go for a larger screwdriver head okay now i'm getting a screwdriver head here that's going to fit this slot tightly and we'll go in here first and the reason is is that when we break the torque on this i want the action to be hung from the wood in the middle i don't want to break this out and have this whole thing try to cam down like this and then we have to support it and it's a real pain in the patooty here you don't want that screwdriver too big and we gotta get it lit right you don't want it too big because you don't want to split the slot open and then wedge it down inside the screw hole but it's gotta fit because if it doesn't fit it's just gonna make a mess oh crap all right hang on we're gonna go to plan b here plan b is an impact now you don't want to this thing is really really really non-judicious in its ability to destroy things but we're just going to give this screw a gentle little rattle now i got some oil up underneath it on the bottom there but we're just gonna knock knock knock on this here we go i don't know why i can't seem to keep the light shining on this right away here we go there we go i'm not hitting it real hard all right i didn't hit it real hard but you can see it's really rusted in the area right here on the head this is where they get stuck not down here in the threads but up top that's why you put the oil on this side here we go let me get this out of here same deal on the other one all right i'm just going to knock this other stock screw out and we'll see if we can do that without having to use something a little more violent let's see if this won't come out now as we're breaking this tension here this action is going to try to there we go this one came out we got lucky this action is going to want to fall out of the stock so i'm hanging on to it all right now bruno is going to do a camera move in the same tank here and he's going to track me down to the bench and i've got my hand underneath it like this and i'm just going to drop the stock on the table and i'm going to let the weight of the action do the work okay yikes well congrats this is officially the worst one i've ever done all right more angel piss up inside here to coil and we've hit that and allowed that to soak and we might get lucky oh yeah we got lucky look at that okay there's two reasons why we have to get the bolt open one is maybe we'll now we're not going to get lucky to be able to get that into a disassembly position but if we can get this out this means that as the rust converts inside the barrel yeah buddy holy cow all right hang on here pop that up now we know we're not going to look down this barrel and see through it but what we're going to be able to do now is when we hang this thing back in the conversion pot and let it boil for about an hour the first thing we'll do when we pull it out is we'll we'll run a boar brush down this thing and see whether or not we can find the bottoms of the grooves we can find the bottoms of the grooves it can be lapped it can be brought back from the dead let's get back and get this thing hung in thor here bubble bubble boil in trouble bruno do me a favor and throw that far right hand switch please just drop it back down to 120 thank you okay so all we're going to do is let this convert into pot of boiling water now my pot is larger than yours is yours is a piece of gutter it doesn't matter we're just gonna boil it in water and we're gonna see if we can get the boar back all other labor not related to getting the bore back is just designed to make a nice pretty wall hanger if it's going to be a wall hanger we'll do that but it drops significantly down my shop's priority stack all right this is an hour after it's been in the tank and um we're just gonna see i i know that this gun would have to be converted two or three times in order to get all this off but we're just gonna walk this off the bottom here and see just how bad this is so there's still some original areas now i said we were going to go in the bore and that's great but i don't want to handle this i don't want this thing all over my hands so we're just going to knock the rust off it real quick yeah it's got some pitting but it didn't go very deep it didn't go very deep you see there what the original part of the gun looked like right there that's unique part of the rear sight fell off i was just like that all right let's go uh get this thing up on a vise see if we can get a brush through it i'm just gonna finish wheeling in here hey um one of the things i wanted to make sure that i brought up right here was the fact that i call this a wire wheel every now and then this is a carting wheel the the whiskers on this thing are only two and a half thousandths of an inch thick and this is essentially a rotary uh piece of steel wool a true wire wheel will throw sparks will rip your uh rip the skin off your fingers so when i'm talking about wheeling things what i mean by don't wire wheel is don't get a regulation go out in your garage wheel and take it after one of these guns this is a carting wheel i could rub it all day and it wouldn't take the bluing off if you're taking off the blue and your wheel's too coarse all right so let's see if we can even get a brush down this board oh yay well let's consider it a victory for right now that the rod's turning and um we could even get the brush down in the first place all right well there is a lot of gak in this thing but the inside of the chamber is there bro do me a favor and shine that down a board this way holy crap there's actually metal in there okay give me a little off axis so it's not quite so bright yeah holy cow all right that brings me to a point right now at the point in this process that i want to show you and i want to show you what the collectors are screaming at me about and why i'm actually on their team and they don't know why wow so we've just had this breakthrough in the bore believe it or not the bore silver will try to figure out how to uh photograph that for you but a lot of passes of the brush later i now know that the bore is there therefore the rest of this gap can be cleaned up so we have the vaphenomps here i haven't looked up what factory this is i don't care here's what i want to show you this is uniformly blue we have taken the outer layer of oxide and converted it into a black oxide and this is uniformly blue this is because somebody did not go after this gun with a wire wheel and this is what the collectors are trying to keep you from doing to a gun they don't want you to do this to the whole thing so let's take a look give me a focus here bud all right so now we have a martini henry that's been converted over to 22. but you see that shiny spot right there somebody ground down to that so that they could read the letters instead of putting on magnified optics they ground down to this so now when this gun gets converted there's going to be a huge white spot right there and i got to tell you what it's going to look like it's going to look bad and this is why they don't want you to take wire wheels to historic guns because when you scrub off that original finish the original finish is gone forever and there are guys that will wire wheel this thing down to the white and then try to figure out how to get the finish back on it when they could have just left it alone in the first freaking place so now that we know the bore is good we're going to re-hang the barrel and i'm going to give you some befores on this bottom metal and you can see this is what i call sugar rust it just flakes off and the one event where it got wet is the first time this thing used to be in pristine condition it got wet it's it's you know got a gack all over it right so that was kind of your before on the bottom metal and we're not even going to attempt to disassemble it yet we're just going to take these barrel bands this bottom metal we're going to take everything take the bolt in one piece and we're just going to throw it in here and we're going to do about a 45-minute conversion on it just to break the rust loose so that we're not breaking anything while we're trying to turn screws and stuff um the piece of the site that fell out this is the ballistics computer for i'm assuming from the edge of this gun the ss patronin the uh the heavy bolt the 197 that was just screaming heavy recoil load you could change this out with a different curve for different kinds of ammo i'm sure they had one of these for the 157 bruno's over there shaking his head emphatically yes okay we'll put the big actually we're going to do the screws in a separate run just because i want to i want to show you guys the before and afters on on all the screws so this is going to go in the pot and get boiled and um the action is going back and thor here for another pass just to get this deep seeded stuff off there's not all of this is pitting a lot of this is still laying on the surface we converted down to it now we need to keep going at this point someone's going to say how come you don't do electrolytic recombination on this why don't you um cathodically uh run this back the other way the problem is all of this rust would turn back into iron where it is and i wouldn't get to see what's underneath it i want to try to get down to smooth steel now optimally let's get the light shining you see this right here this is what the gun looked like before this event happened so yeah it is what it is and we're never going to be able to polish it back to this and it's never going to look like this so the trick is to just stop all of the rust on this thing so now i'd like to get this nose piece out and convert it so what i want to do when i drive this pin i want to support this in such a way that when i hit it it's like this so if we were to support this in the vise this way and drive down on it we're relying on the friction of the vise jaws to hang onto it but if we come sideways and we come in right behind it bruno swing around behind me and support the rear end of this thing please thank you okay so right now i got bruno behind me hanging to the back end of it and we're going to be able to just support it so we're supporting the metal and we're driving in the direction where we're hitting up against something and that pin is going to show up here just see the pin coming out the other side and then i'm just going to pop it out like that so that it hits the bench we pull this off and then we should be able to gingerly extract this wood out from underneath it and note that it's undamaged but you can see there's red rust all over it sooner or later this wood would get infected with mold and then it would dry rot and we would be done but the important thing is is that it gives us back this piece right there so we can get it in the pot all right now we're on the wood part of this everything's cooking in the pots it's going to take me two or three passes through but we got something we got to deal with if this gun is going to be shot at all and it's that crack right there and that crack right up there let me see if i can get that lit better okay wait a minute i'm going to start it over again don't worry about it okay we've got all the other metal parts are probably going to go two maybe three passes on this thing in order to get all the way down to the bottom of the metal and get all the rust off this gun we've got another metal part in here that we're going to have to fight and this isn't one of those times when it's going to be optional to leave the crossbow in the gun the cross the cross bolt is actively rusting and there's active rust sweating out of here but more importantly that crack right there and that crack right there means that this bedding has failed now would it still hold recoil probably because the recoil is going back to your shoulder through the walls of the magazine well but that's something we're going to have to deal with and that's a glue failure because as you can see this stock is laminated this is basically a huge chunk of plywood so that's going to have to get dealt with it's going to have to come out and i would tell you to not take that out unless you really have to so here's what we're going to confront this not right here we're going to have to make a spanner for it and put a little bit of uh the penetrating oil on this and just accept the fact that the penetrating oil is gonna get on the stock it just is there's not much we can do about that but we're gonna have to deal with it so i'm going to put a little bit of penetrating oil on that and we're going to let that sit and go off and talk about other things that are right near it we're going to talk about the condition of the wood here we're looking at what's left of the varnish which isn't much it's not even varnish it's a single pass of linseed oil we're going to talk about all this because usually when i talk about these conservations i don't talk about the wood because 99 out of 100 times the wood doesn't need to be messed with in this particular gun we're going to need to mess with the wood so let's get on with that we're doing an inspection now on the inside of the stock and we're looking for spots in here where the mold is actually actively growing right there that's actively growing mold there's another spot i saw it and i can't even tell you whether or not this spot is mold or a spider web i can't tell you what that is but that looks like mold to me so don't breathe any of this stuff you see we have glue failures that are non-critical but what will happen especially on like a 1903 is when the bedding fails up here this rear stock bolt starts acting like a splitting maul and it'll start beating the stock to pieces and you can see here that glue joint failed that glue joint failed and if there are any cracks that go further down in no so the beginnings of the destruction in this thing had already begun before the corrosion event happened um let's get up in uh some other places here okay let's go right here now you can't take these out they're they're swaged in yeah it's technically possible to take this out but it's not possible so you're stuck with what you got here so i've got a a moto tool and this thing sounds terrible because the front bearings are gone on it but i've got a moto tool with a brush mounted in it and if you're really really careful you can come in and brush this off lightly you can't convert it and don't go rubbing up against the wood too hard and this is going to be the one spot on this entire gun where you're going to use a you're going to use a little bit of cold blue we'll get that at the end we'll trim out you don't have a choice here you've got to wheel through this this is all an active oxide right here this is all active and if you don't get this off see how it's bright orange underneath if you don't take this stuff off it's just going to keep right on going and it's going to keep right right on doing it i guess we could just oil it and call it patina we see some dents we can definitely see that this is a laminated stock this is made out of sheets of wood all glued together it's a piece of plywood except in this particular case i'm not entirely positive that the grain alternates directions like in true plywood this the grain appears to all be running the same way and there's a gouge here and steaming can remove dents but it doesn't do a particularly good job of removing gouges we're going to try to steam this up we're going to try to steam a couple of other things up here but in this particular case the surface finish on this is so far gone we're going to have to rub down through it this is a piece of steel it's a piece of spring steel there's nothing fancy to it you can use this about anything but all we're doing is combing off and getting smooth you can even draw file it like that the trick is to get this all squared up now this is a burnishing tool as hard as a rock and we're going to take this edge and just roll it down like this and what this is going to do is put a slight gumby head on this thing and it allows you to do this okay there's a very very slight edge there and it allows you to do this so there's usually a reason for everything i do and the reason why i showed you this scraper a little while ago was to tell you that this is going to be the spot where we're actually going to come in and gently remove the surface from this we don't have a choice this gun has gone so far now that there's no there's no way to even call what's on it savable but you'll see here i'm just lightly removing the surface of this i'm not even taking off any wood i'm basically getting a layer of really dirty really nasty heavily oxidized surface gack off of this you see that there no sandpaper we haven't removed any markings we'll come over the top of a marking and i'll show you um there's no there's nothing um that we're damaging here we're not removing a whole lot of wood this is just uh just basically ground up whatever was on the surface and it's here and all the imperfections are here but we've cut it off with an edged scraper so one of the deals about those laminated stocks on those 98s is it made them tough you could have braid them they're tough to dent so i've got a chunk of walnut off an old 4570 trapdoor here that has had the ever-loving turwillockers pounded out of it and i want to show you some things steaming will and won't do so up here on the periphery we have a dent and i've got it mounted up here so that you can see the fact that it's an actual impact bruise on the wood these are all impact bruises up here whereas this is an actual chip of missing wood you can't fix this so what steaming will do is allow you to lift wood fibers that have been impacted but not torn so this towel this is an old monocoat iron that i'm using here you guys have seen me do this before now know that if you commit to this like i said on the crag if you commit to steaming up dents you are committing to messing up the finish and you're going to have to redo it but if you see here all of those dents are pretty much gone it just the steam gets down on the wood fibers and reinflates them and pops them back up again we might even be able to um go after let's say hang on there we go okay so some of this stuff if we cross light it there we go see how that see it's a dead dent is right there so maybe we will be able to go like this that's a little bit better that's popping it up you got to do it more than once and i'm using the edge of this because this is really really wet on the edge of this towel so we'll do the same thing on that k98 it just doesn't have a lot of areas that needed to be steamed but you can see here that particular dent almost went away notice we've used no sandpaper yet we're still in the whole scraping format here and again i know i'm not on that k98 stock but a little bit of scraping goes a long way all right this cross bolt has been soaking in the oil in this shop now for about two hours we've let it soak and what i'm going to show you i'm going to get yelled at for showing you but very few people are going to be able to make the tool necessary to take this out now a lot of guys will just try to take a regular pair of pliers and stuff it in here this is not a regular pair of pliers this particular pair of pliers has had their points sharpened down but if you try to torque this bolt this pair of pliers will twist see how they're twisting they're going to snap off this is gonna pop out it's gonna destroy something up here on the stock that's where this wrench comes in because all a spanner is is two pieces of metal that are sticking down hang on a minute i get my hands out of the way here there are two pieces of metal that are sticking down and they're supported right at the bottom so what this looks like when you're looking out from underneath the bottom of it it looks like that it looks like a regular spanner wrench to plug this in and you push down on it you're pushing down on it the whole time you get this close and then you just bump it you keep bumping it you're trying to you're trying to load it and eventually this will break loose but you must push down if you allow this to cam out of this hole it will do very ugly very nasty things and as we can see here that is definitely turned we can keep getting this out of the way the problem is i'm in very bad body position i want to be up over the top of this pair of pliers like this and i want to be right where the camera is i want to have my arm here and be up over the top resist the temptation to let this pair of pliers get too far away so let me readjust the light here because even the lights in the way there we go even the lights annoying all right and just rotate it bear in mind if you take this stock bolt out it's pretty serious all right ordinarily i wouldn't take it out but this thing is dying underneath that line and it would tell you this on a gun that has not been through this moisture loading on a gun that has not been this screwed up you will not have to take this out and therefore you will not be imperiling a gun that has decent finish on it okay now while you're watching this open a new window up and look up cunningham's law just saying okay we managed to get this out you can see how rusted it's underneath now we're gonna put it back on for a minute now what we just got it off why are you putting it back on because what we don't want to do is mushroom the threads we don't want to mushroom these threads when we do the next step the next step is this track me brother i need to be over here if we drive this fastener out we drive this crossbow out this way we're gonna blow the end grain off the end of this stock it's just gonna blow it's gonna crack this way so i'm to put my thumb over it and then i'm going to tap on that screw to get this moving and the reason why i'm putting my thumb over it is i'm supporting the end grain with my thumb and it is moving here hang on a minute let me do this let me turn this this way so you guys can watch this cross bolt move while i've got my finger on it okay now we can back this thread off a little bit right there sorry i'm reaching in front something's just got to happen okay now that that's been backed off and you can see here we've already broken this line down here this is already cracked and started to move so the the impairment of blowing this up is now gone we can take a brass punch and just very lightly massage this out of the way and then once we're sure it's moving and we're not going to screw up the threads we can back this out but i mean look at how yacked up that is okay okay that is why we had to take that cross bolt out because that's sitting to continue there and continuing to sit underneath the stock line and just rot and dissolve it also gives us access to this wood here and this failed glue joint and it didn't fail that bad so i might have been seeing things that's still strong so we're not going to worry about it but you do have this mold there's mold growing up underneath this line there's mold growing here there's mold growing all this has got to get neutralized and i'm telling you alcohol is a pretty good way to do it since we've already made the decision that the finish is coming off this thing because let's face it there was nothing here the decision to screw this gun up was made by somebody other than us and then uh so let's the edges of these scrapers can dig into the wood so you need to be careful you don't pivot this down we've now removed most of the outer layer of the damaged spots we've taken all that fungus with it and to be really honest i'm not even going to sand this we'll keep going down this entire stock and my preferred method of finishing this off is a danish oil danish oil is kind of like boiled linseed but it sets up sometime this month linseed oil just takes forever and i never really really have never shook hands with it so i i just i use a danish oil and i know i'm out of sequence here i'm just going to show you something just a little bit of it and it'll bring the natural luster of this back in a way that's not entirely incorrect now i'm not going to do the whole thing because i'm just here you put this on let it sit for about 20 minutes and then buff it off and it's going to actually make that stock look pretty damn good again so we'll do the whole gun like this i'm not going to sit here and bore you and make you watch me stand out entire stock but this is kind of what i'm talking about there's one other thing that i wanted to show you and it involves a greenie a regulation scotch brite pad and i like the purple ones does a lot of what say steel wool would do um but not quite not quite as aggressive as steel wool and then you can take so let's say you had a gun that had the finish was not nearly as screwed up as this one is you could come in here and just buff off this finish and it makes it very very smooth now again other areas of this stock have made me take the finish off but a little bit of just regulation alcohol just almost as a wetting agent and you can sit here and rub with this you can do it with steel wool but i'm finding that these scotch brites are the way to go see all that gak we just took off the surface here you go now this surface of this particular rifle was the least screwed up of the whole thing but there are other areas like i said where we have we have molds and mildews and all that's got to get dealt with the thing's got to come down to the bear or in 20 years this thing will with the consistency of a flipping mushroom so speaking of mushrooms wow this forend this handgun i'm sorry is hurting and as we can see there is a really really big bow in this here you can see it even better from the bottom there's a big old bow in this side right there i don't even need this ruler to show it to you guys it's just huge as opposed to this side which is straight all right can we do anything about that i don't know this is a pretty thin piece of wood let's let's face it so yeah we got it off the gun it was split all the way down the split was opened up here and i've recently had a gunsmith that is a lot more senior to me than you might imagine this guy's in his 80s said well have you tried that newfangled gorilla glue yet okay because newfangled to him means sometime in the last like two decades so i said you know what this is the piece of wood i'm going to experiment on and what i wanted to make sure was was that gorilla glue would actually take stain and i didn't know if it would the aliphatic resins the tight bonds don't take stain um like like say acura glass wood so i used the gorilla glue here put it on and then i had a um a bar in here and a rubber banner on it like this right there so it wouldn't squish out and it did a pretty good job of coming back here maybe we can go ahead and get this foam cut off so from what i understand this stuff is a polyurethane and it activates and it would i wouldn't say it dries i would say it cures um let's see here yeah so that can all get sanded out and in the top surface of this we can come back in and we're going to look at all the things we were talking about so what do we do about this big gash honestly not much not much it's gone there's not enough wood there but what we've done in the past here let's see if we can do it here we'll go ahead and we'll rub this out with this scotch brite pad and we'll see if we can even out we can even out some of this tone see how that's evening out now i don't have it clamped in a vise because you know what's going to happen if i squeeze this like this it's just going to explode i might be able to just bring it up to one side like that yeah okay so we use the greeny you can also use the the steel wool here let's pop in here like this and see if we can't get that to come off and it leaves this all smooth there's also the scraper that we were using before of course we were scraping and that's just removing all that mung from the surface as far as oh man i think that's nasty try to avoid rasps but in this particular case you might be able to just kind of take that dipsy doodle out of it problem is that while i'm using this rasp i'm putting scratches down this the long axis of this are you gonna get this whole problem out of here no but you can make it look significantly less heinous anyway when you get all done with this let me get a completed section of this here because i want to show you something so now that we've got this we'll say that we have this relatively flat here and it's smooth there we go right there there is something else then we can either stain the bad parts so we'll pop a little stain out here and we'll just run some stain in this now what color are you using i don't know whatever the hell is on my fingertip you can come you can go you can knock this bad stuff back and then you can come at it with some with some danish oil um you guys that are in the linspeed that's great i've never actually shook hands with linspeed and i just can't get that stuff to do what i wanted to do so we're back with the danish oil again and we'll just run some danish oil on this that's all we're doing just putting a little bit of danish oil on it and getting that sheen back now danish oil you're not coating this thing you're this is not a coat it's an application danish oil has to be allowed to soak down into the wood and do its thing and it'll build up so while we were away that nasty oil soaked piece of garbage came out looking like this with all that it used to have all that mildew on the inside all the mildew was gone and what this was was a toothbrush alcohol we scraped off the big stuff buffed down the stuff that wasn't and then hit it with the with one coat of danish oil let it soak in one more and then rub it in you'll know that at no time during this entire discussion have i mentioned the word sandpaper so the screws cleaned up and you can see in here that there's a little bit of active oxide so let me get rid of this and show you guys that i didn't quite get down to the bottom of this yet and if you look in here you can see that when i scrub this it's going to get bright see how it's getting bright so there's still active oxide going on in here this needs to be boiled again but i've got a little trick i want to show you guys and here's what it is if you take that active oxide and you rub a bunch of oil on it and you polish it you have patina it's magic this is significantly sexier isn't it yeah it depends upon your definition of sex i guess um it does kind of a good point that o3a4 is still kind of screwed up but yeah that 03a4 is jacked we'll get there at the end of the day i told you this was going to be a deep dive and it sounds funny when you're breathing heal your voice sounds funny now sometimes i'm just beside myself trying to figure out what this guy's doing [Music] you

Channel: Mark Novak

Views: 1,252,534

Rating: 4.7246428 out of 5

Keywords: #anvilgunsmithing, @anvilgunsmithing, Mark Novak, Anvil, Gunsmithing

Id: fwnQrDQmTzY

Length: 48min 58sec (2938 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 25 2020