Anvil 088: Shotgun Rib Soldering

what are we looking at here what we're looking at here is what happens when you try to hot dip blue with a set of shotgun barrels and i'll tell you what you wind up with this bilge so let's go find out which person messed this thing up how they messed it up and how i plan to get them out of it at great personal expense let's go down the rabbit hole because this is going to be a fairly significant trip this time this is going to be kind of hard to see because the total work piece is about 28 inches long and it's hard so we're focused right here and i've tried to clean the background up a little bit in fact i'm going to turn this around so that that blue you see more of the blue and that'll give me something up against here you can see down here and right here there's a line of solder that's actually tinned to the barrel in a very narrow line but it's missing from here to here it's missing in these spots there's a lot of spots where the solder is missing pulling back the focus now to this point and i'm going to play with the light here a little bit so you can really see it there was nothing there was nothing in here nothing there was no tinning nothing all the way back here there was a little bit here on this side to be honest to god we're lucky that these things were actually still held together at the back end because i'm going to tell you what up here at the muzzle they're not held together at all so let me get the light behind this right here and we can catch we're catching daylight look at that so now the problem becomes and there's going to be a lot of people yelling at me well the barrels could be off that way or they could be off that way and it'll affect the patterning okay i'll believe that i will tell you that nothing back here got molested and the barrels didn't get bent so i'm about willing to tell you that where they touch is going to matter we're going to switch camera angles here this is hard to show but you can see a silver line right here and that's where i took this barrel and just took a very very slight file and nicked it we're going to face these muzzles back off when this is all done but all we have to do is loosen up this vise a little bit and i'm telling you what i can twist the living crap out of this so this is the real challenge is going to be to lock this down that's where they want to be if you were really crazy and this was a big money shotgun an h or a parker we'd be laying this set of tubes down on a flat block and we'd have it touching in four points we do all that this is a riverside gun it's basically a crescent and all i'm trying to do is get this thing back to where it was when i saw it the first time and i will elaborate on that story as we go along i've come in now and i've prepared one side of this rib just so i can show you the difference and we'll come back and look this is smooth and shiny all along its surface this is chopped up it's got rust it needs to adhere to this surface right here and it's that needs to be combed down now i did this yesterday and for a lot of reasons i need to do it again because in the one day that this has been sitting in my shop microscopic rust is beginning to form not only is microscopic rust film forming on this any oil rust anything in a solder joint will deter it the other thing is the torch is not your friend half of what comes out of this torch is water vapor water vapor you see it on the lens yeah it kind of obscures the view of all the ugliness behind it but remember that that water vapor comes out of this because it's going to mess our solder joints up so this set of tubes has been conserved and we're going to have to go wire wheel all that off then i'm going to sand blast these things and come back in here and with a three corner scraper we're going to scrape all of this off we're going to come back in and take this solder off down to the bottom down to the steel and then we'll re-tin but the first thing we're going to do is go take all of this rust and blast it off of these barrels now on a blue set of barrels you can do this and not mess up the blue but these tubes have had so much heat put on them because the hot salts process is hot enough to melt this solder and it melted all of it it melted the barrel hook here it melted everything so let me go sandblast these i'll be right back i'm just going to throw them in a sandblaster and fry them so that i'm looking at naked steel returning from the sandblaster you can see that we got all this off of it there's a clock running on this job right now because the sandblaster blasts it off but the atmospheric moisture begins to re-attack almost instantly so when you commit to do a job like this you got to get on it you can't clean these things yesterday so let me get under over the top here we go there's the solder right there on the bottom and then there's a very very thin line here and it just ends there's nothing in the back there's nothing right here now this is where the issue is you just can't come in here with the torch and lay a torch down on this and start throwing heat at it because these tubes are cold and that water bloom that we were talking about will throw water on this and will instantly begin to rust so you need to heat these tubes up ever so slightly you only got to get them up to about 140 150 degrees where the water will not condense out of the air on this that's the trick so we start heating them up with the with a hot air gun we'll just take my we'll take my mark one mod zero hot air gun here and we'll get them warm that'll happen in a little bit we got to do all of our prep first this view is the best way i can describe this the silver surface up here is what we're going to lay the solder on and the dark surface is what we don't want to lay the solder on i mean in this particular case there is this is the breech end and there's almost nothing here so if you're a right-handed guy you take the tail of the file and you put it in the right and we're just going to draw a file off now in my my view i'm running my eyes in like this and i'm watching the light bounce off of it and we've tried to replicate that with the camera and i can't what i'm looking for is this has to be a hundred percent shiny now this is a really aggressive file and i'm actually leaving i don't want to polish this it's one of the few times you're doing something with a file you want to be a little bit rough be careful that we're not re-contouring the rib we're just trying to knock all of this mung off the side of it here's some extra solder here and this solder soft you can cut it with a knife i mean it'll right there it'll come right off okay so we want to prep this entire rib all the way down now you got to be careful you don't just grab it with your thumbs and haul it you can't touch it you got to move it from the other side of the vise because you can't touch what you've already done so we'll slide that out a little bit more now this is a side i did not do yesterday i'm just making sure i get it all now one of the things that solder will not stick to is sharpie marker so let's look at this here's the top face of the rib here's the side face of the rib that we don't want anything to stick to and while we're doing this solder joint everything gets nasty and one of the best ways to finish one of these things is to not screw it up in the first place so that's why i've left everywhere i don't want the solder rusty but to really make sure i lay on a layer a sharpie marker right where i don't want it the sharpie acts as a resist and the solder will not stick to it so i've got a layer of black sharpie right there let me get this lit right so you can actually see it and then there's that silver line so the silver line on top is where we want the solder and the black line on the bottom is where we don't now this entire rib is prepped like this the barrels are prepped like this so the first thing we're going to do here light off this hot air gun and we're going to heat this rib up above the dew point in the room so when we heat it the rest of the way up with the hot air gun we don't get that moisture bloom and once you begin the heat will move far enough out in front that it won't stick anymore it won't uh condense anymore but bear in mind what we're doing here we're going to do for the rest of the rib but for the sacred brevity i'm going to show you what we got here get that good and hot this is not a hair dryer it's a hot air gun again the gun guys are going to wail on me but this is just regular paste flux and regular 6040 rosin core radio solder but you can't solder ribs on a shotgun with rosin flux and rosin solder you've got to have acid nonsense you have to have a clean surface what the acid does is eats down through all of your hand oils and keeps you from being stupid in our case we're just going to prepare a nice clean surface you can put this on with a brush what i found is is that brushes the bristles will melt and then melted bristles just like a finger so what i've got here now is i've got some flux on this and it has wetted the entire surface and we're just going to warm this up and there's no bloom forming on it now you can't melt the solder in the flame the metal has to melt the solder put that little bit on there not a tremendous amount of heat you see now we're going to have to we're going to change camera angles here so that you can actually see the solder going on rolling back in here we can see that if the solder is hot enough and we touch it with the flux you get this shiny it almost looks like a mirror right where the solder is sticking now we didn't get it all the way up here and remember the vise is sucking heat out on us so we're only going to be able to get to within about an inch or two of the vise and then we're going to have to reposition this not a lot of heat you only got to get this thing up to about 300 degrees you're turning the metal blue you're getting too hot now that shiny mirror surface is a layer of lead tin solder and now it won't rust keep your fingers off it but right now your clock stops on the rust you can check it like this forever i will finish this rib and we'll come back to the barrels i've captured the muzzle end of the barrels in the vise here because the first thing we're going to want to do before we do anything else is trap this alignment we have the two indicator marks now i'm going to use a little bit of crocus cloth here and be careful that you don't come too far around this or you'll start putting horizontal sanding marks out here where they have to be removed later so remember one of the very very prime things to not screw in one of these things up is to not screw it up so all i want to do here is just rough this up in here because the barrels are only going to touch for about the last two inches or so what i'm doing now is sanding off any residual rust okay a little bit more not much you don't have to kill it you just got to get it clean and i'm going to take our stick here and we're going to run some flux in this gap and we're going to make sure that when i let these barrels touch each other again we're going to have some flux in the gap here and all we're going to do is put a blob of solder up here just as a place keeper so that these things aren't walking all over the place and screwing up our alignment down there at the breach and everything i'm telling you is hard-won knowledge gunsmithing is an event-driven process it is not a time driven process i've already hot air gunned them off camera i did that i just warmed them up and all i'm doing i got that little dab of solder sticking up there and i'm just going to warm these up until that little dab of solder melts do you not want to melt the solder with dura there it goes you see so i should be able to just lay the solder on the back side of this steel and have it just disappear in here and there we go perfect you see that little blob of solder in there now that little blob of solder has not adhered to both walls but a barrel yet we're not quite there when you get it hot you just hit it with a little bit of flux and bang you get a nice good heavy duty joint down in there bang right there so we got just a little bit of solder on both sides of this just to hang on to this thing there we go all right so that's enough for the muzzles we'll come back and clean all that up this is just a tack joint when we get all done by the time we get the bottom rib on this thing in the bottom top this will be a solid blob of solder from about here up so three different gunsmiths worked on this thing and they learned how to solder or they were trying to learn how to solder on this rib so all i'm doing here is cleaning this off and making a shiny spot right there you can see that line it's like a gray line there now there's hand prints all over this thing but i've assiduously avoided touching these ribs down in here where all of this is be very very careful when you're filing that you're not nicking up the barrel outside of the line of where the where the solder is going to touch and then once we would get that cleaned up i'm going to rotate this just a little bit and again with the sharpie marker i'm going to lay this sharpie line down where i don't want the solder to go and that's going to really simplify clean up later on because this will be all those places these will be little silver spots um where the where the solder was when you go to blue these things what a pain in the neck so we're right back to it's easier to fix things that you haven't screwed up in the first place all right so now you can see the black that i've laid on that there go now it really shows up the only place we want to solder is in more to that and then it's just the same deal that we did ordinarily back in the day to get these tubes hot they would have taken a bar of iron probably about a half an inch in diameter they'd taken a bar of iron got it red hot and laid it up inside the tube like that and let that red heat warm everything up and the whole thing would just solder itself together all at once i don't have a forge that big i do have an induction rig and i'm not showing you all that because um the average guy that might have the skills to pull this off doesn't have one of those and as you all know if you've been watching my videos for a while my whole point is is that you don't need thousands of dollars of high-speed kit to pull this off i put this blue towel in the background to try to give us a little better background the background was so busy it's hard to see it the rib has been prepped and it's silver down both sides everything that's black here is either sharpie or there's a little bit of just uh burned flocks down there but everything that's silver is actually um tin plated tin lead plated this is going to have to slip into here and where where we're going to have an advantage in this case is since we've tinned both pieces we've only got to get this piece of rib just hot enough to melt the lead we don't have to get all of this hot this whole thing doesn't have to be a smoking flame and mess now i'm pulling this blue sheet back off again just because well all my tools are under it hang on a minute all right we'll throw that up there so everything's been prepped now we're going to get to the point where we can throw a little bit of heat to this thing so one of the things i did was is i put a bow in this so that it bends up this rib is a slight bow to it so as we run down the barrel we're going to be ironing it out flat if it's the other way around you get humps in it and when they get the humps in it it's very hard to close those up because if we press down on this we're going to have a wedging action that's trying to make the barrel split apart and we don't want to press down very hard we only want to press down just hard enough that we can hang on to what we're doing so off camera i'm aligning a clamp here now this is just a rough position clamp and that clamp's going to keep everything from moving around on us and because we have this reverse curve bent in it this is actually kind of spring-loaded down and i don't need to push on this very hard so all it is it's just a matter now of heating it up now i've seen this done with wire loops wrapped around it and all that other stuff and i'll get into that as we get down to the other end i'll show you why i'm not a big fan of that and i'm going to get not trolled but i know i'm going to get other people that claim to be london trained gunsmiths and all that other stuff and that's great except for the fact that at the end of the day this is not a very expensive shotgun and we don't have two days to set these ribs all right so let me put some let me put some heat on this thing here and we'll let all this stuff flow out so if we did our homework and we did this right all we're going to have to do is put a little bit heat on it get my flux up here a little bit of flux on it and it should all just join together so you start back here at the breach end and you throw the heat back on here at the breach end and all you're doing is heating up the rib once that solder melts it should just pop back in there so we do have to put a little bit of heat on it because there's a lot of um a lot of metal here okay we're getting there a little bit of flux these barrels are going to have to be completely taken back down again restruck so i'm well aware of the fact that what i'm doing could be construed as a bit of a a finish screw-up but in this particular case we are starting from the beginning and i understand the fact that the barrels are gonna have to be refinished okay so we'll just keep fluxing them here and eventually the solder will melt and these suckers will just go together we're getting close now the way to know you're getting close grab a little bit of solder here just see whether or not it's melting yet under its own latent heat we're getting close all right see we got a little bit of melt in now that's melting on the okay side as i can touch the barrel and the solder melts in by itself without the flame in the in the way that's when you know you're getting there and if we've done our homework this whole thing should just close up into one nice tight joint all right that's just melting in now all by itself it just gets sucked right up underneath there so that's that end this melts right down in there and we come back flux in there and then everything just takes off okay now the breach end here is the tough end because this is where all the mass is and it's just sucking this the heat of this torch up there we go get down there good now as that solder comes spattering out it's not sticking anything because we've gone ahead and put the sharpie marker all over everything we didn't want it to stick to which is going to make cleanup a bit of a snap so we'll just keep working down the barrel a real question becomes am i going to get away with taking that clamp off and the answer is probably yes probably got away with that and when you scratch it with this stick it drags the um drags the solder down into that joint okay and then we're gonna that's why clamping it into that barrel together becomes such a big deal you gotta watch this rib doesn't roll you gotta watch this rib doesn't just roll you know it'll roll up the sidewall you just gotta watch it doesn't do that so we'll let it set okay see we're not really wearing this out real hard as we're sitting down on this and just use a very very light amount of spring tension and sit down on it just enough if you clamp on them too much then they um they'll spread apart and then you got that problem going a little bit on flux yeah okay and that means once that sets up see this clamp isn't even doing anything you can leapfrog down the barrel then so with this scraper tool this tip since it's sharp as i scrape down in any oxidation that's gotten in the way gets scraped out of the way and it usually results in the uh the solder just following the tip yep perfect so it should ring even without the bottom on and we'll ring them and show everybody what it sounds like when they ring right and maybe by tuesday i would have gotten a hold of brian brian has got a 1960s con strobo tuner and i would love to put this thing on that strobo tuner and see the um see all the overtones and all the resonance and watch them bring like a marine like a choir belt anyway you gotta have a vice you gotta understand what a clean joint looks like and you got to be um you got to be patient so we had a total of what about four hours in the shop in this this clamp is key because it keeps this from just taking off that way because eventually we're going to melt that solder joint and uh yeah look at that it's just basically sitting down there okay and we're not turning the barrels colors the solder is just melting on its own but because we're not having to get the the solder to try to stick to the steel right now the solder only has to stick to itself this turns into a far less hair raising now if this is one of those old belgian ones that i've seen they braise them at the rear brace them at the front brace the ribs brace everything they tie all this thing together throw in an oven turn it yellow and it all braises um that's why i'm really not afraid about putting a little bit of heat on these things we ain't gonna kill them this is where this is not where you learn how to solder and the first time you shoot a set of tubes that have been this far apart they got the guns got to go on a test stand they'll put it back on it on that one we tested the mosin on and we'll put this thing up right pop the first two rounds in the dirt just to make sure these pigs don't park company on us all right the muzzle gets its own special treatment because we um we're going to why don't we put the bottom rib on and then we'll fill all this up full of solder so i'm just going to tack this rib down up at the muzzle right now and we'll come back to it because we got to fill all this up inside here with solder again there's a hundred different ways to do this but what we'll wind up doing is taking a piece of steel wool and pushing it back behind the front sight post and then we'll just fill it up full of solder and then pound it down flat and file it all right and we take this extra solder here and just flip this out of the way okay ordinarily when i'm alone i would just hit this with some crisp compressed air but then i would be spattering you down with solder so i have to constantly remind myself to not hose my videographer just because i'm not used to being there it's it's a nice touch it keeps you wanting to come back details you know okay then once that sets i'm going to take this clamp off and then go back and work that and then this will stay hard enough i won't have to worry about it but it's still wet and then we got to remember when the bottom rib goes on but you've got to capture all of this up top so you got to make sure you got it i won't take this clamp off till i'm all the way done and then we'll just file that little nick off and it'll be close enough this is not um this riverside's got issues in the stock area all right so we're just waiting for this now to set up it's getting there that's liquid is now that's getting a little bit pulpy okay and then once it sets and yeah we're gonna have some metal cleanup we're gonna have to do we're gonna have to do all that but he had a problem on the older guns that have been refinished a couple of times like the older english guns where this area of the barrel right here has been filed several times and you can't just do an id minus od and come up with a barrel wall thickness because it's it isn't concentric anymore um that's a point to remember if you're like gonna do choke tubes but that's a that's a video for a long time from now okay let me just get up underneath here right where that clamp was um i don't want this to melt again also it popped there we go okay now i'm gonna let that set up that's still shiny it's still liquid so i don't want to hit it yet or i'll move it the other thing with solder is you never want to disturb solder when it's liquidous when it's changing phases and going from liquid to solid if you pop it there you'll get a cold joint um even if it's wet both sides the metal the metallurgical properties of the lead tin will get really weird on you and it'll it almost looks like it's been um you know brittle fractured it's that real frosty look you definitely see right now it's still liquid here we got some extra solder up here on the surface we're just gonna have to get rid of it it burned through the um it burned through the sharpie but it beats the heck out of having to clean this entire thing up you know i mean just making sure we're touching down everywhere all right oh yeah that's opposed to say the barrels on the parker right these they're dead but these are alive and once these cool down enough i can grab them we'll pick them up off the vise and we'll see whether or not they ring or not if it isn't one solid mass and everything goes into its different its own vibrational node and it just kills it kills the um the resonance all right so let's do this let me get a good jump on this here so without the rag touching it i still need to be able to hang it and we'll see what this is gonna do oh yeah so that ring and if they weren't solid they would sound like they would sound kind of like this but instead they're ringing that means we got this rib tied on all the way hurrah let's get this thing cleaned up all right so these things have cooled down enough to show you something else that we got to consider this is the lump right here that ties the receiver and the barrels together so let me get my fingers out of the way here and i'll show you what i'm talking about that snaps down on that and actually locks this all together these move these things move they slide back and forth the solder breaks loose we can see this big lump of detritus here this whole piece of solder resist the temptation to take a tig welder and tack weld that in if you're going to do that you better know how to take care of the inside of the barrel because you'll get a lot of heavy duty oxidation there and there's always the ever-present fear that you might actually blow a hole through this barrel and destroy all this the reason why i'm bringing it up now is on other guns this is actually got a reverse curve to it this way in this way and the barrels are actually pinching it in on this one it's just a single curve we could heat this up right now and pop it right out so the time to decide whether or not this is in the right spot or not is right now before you put this rib on and that should have just enough tension on it to keep this from falling off and this is in exactly the right spot so we're good so what's left here is going to be to put the bottom rib on and then assemble all this carry it out and run it on a test stand once just to make sure that all this doesn't part company with itself so let's look at the top now we've got this all cleaned up and yeah there are gaps in it where things have been beat on before and some things have been moved around but by and large we're done here the solder is tight the joint is complete all the way down to the bottom i've used a variety of pointed tools to come in and strip this solder out until there's a very thin line there and if you don't do that when you go to blue these things you'll know you'll see a big fat spot of solder i think there's some right up here that has to get cleaned out that got caught up underneath this rib but by and large the top of this is done we'll do the bottom and it's just simple soldering [Applause] and we're going to stop here because i want to show you something about all those little balls of solder snot that we got to get out before we uh get out of this problem there are a lot of these little balls of of solder that ball up here they're all over this thing and they're all up inside the ribs so what i meant was we're going to tip this down let anything that's inside this rib knock out then we're going to tip the barrel straight up in the air and as we're locking this down we're going to fill in this area here in between these two and and cap all that off so i've got to wait for this to cool off then we'll reposition vertically in the lathe so this hot sticky mess right here represents what we have left the muzzles all right and we have a gap here and we have a gap here and the rib has come down to the end and it's all kind of tied up and it's it's never going to meet down here it's never going to go on the same way twice so barely out of scene here you see this right down here i've got a clamp right there clamped across this to keep this span wise tight and then this clamp is holding the ribs where i want it so when the solder melts a little bit that clamp down there on the bottom is our insurance policy that these things just won't take off on us so i take just a little wad of steel wool and i stuff it down there in that hole so that we're not trying to fill this entire rib up full of solder now i'm sure this is where the english the london train gunsmiths are going to pop in here and they're going to go that's not the way that's done and it may not be but the difference is is that i do two to three of these a month and you guys get to do maybe one or two of them a year and you get paid appropriately i'm not being paid three thousand dollars to solder this pair of ribs um because we have to get on with it over here because hunting season is actually getting ready to begin and you know we're all allowed to hunt over here so that's pretty cool um so yeah there's a lot of different ways to do this and i'm sure i'm not doing it the technically correct way but it's the way i want to do it so we're at the end and here is the story on this gun the customer brought this gun in and i think it would this guy is pretty old this guy had first class tickets on the ark and he brought this gun in and he wanted it redone and it was beyond this outfit's 25 year old gunsmith's ability to do they called me to ask and bid putting the gun back in the field i said okay and i gave him a a pretty stiff number because it was going to take a lot of effort to put this together well this particular firm got a little impatient and they pretty much screamed and yelled at their guy loud enough that their guy tried to do this gun and he tried to he tried to uh do the through the wood he tried to do the metal and when he tried to do the metal the only thing he knew how to do was hot dip something so he attempted to hot dip this gun and the barrels fell apart and they got rid of him before they've called me now i have no idea this is going on they got rid of him hang on a minute i'm getting some solder prepped here and they brought another guy in who i might add wound up being one of my apprentices and he's really good so the guy they brought in he was just out of gunsmithing school he was 21 or so and he took one look at this and said okay i need help he hadn't met me yet so the first thing he did was is he went back to one of his instructors at the school that he had graduated from and the instructor at the school and my young apprentice proceeded to screw this thing up the second time and it's i'm telling you if you're looking for a good gunsmith in school it doesn't just because someone's teaching at one of the schools doesn't necessarily mean he knows what he's doing and i want to have to tell you that the guy that messed this thing up the second time messed up a stock for a fox model b i paid him a lot of money and gave him a lot of walnut to do a stock on an lc smith that was a disaster i had to take that back and then um i got another elsie smith from another gunsmithing firm that needed me to to do that because someone had screwed up the stock guess what but they were smart enough to not tell me it was this guy and then this set of barrels so that's three stalks and a set of barrels and we're all messed up by the same guy so just because someone has the credentials doesn't necessarily mean that they know what they're doing the only thing that produces true credentials is whether or not you can actually get the work done or not so that's the story here this thing was messed up by three people that supposedly knew what they were doing they'll hold themselves out as a credentialed members of the community and i'll tell you this if you look at their hammer faces they're not polished that's how you tell all right so we filled that up with a steel wall we filled this end cap up full of solder you just get it to melt you pound it down into that into that recess and it'll sit flat it'll tighten everything up here okay and we're going to let that cool off yeah that's cleaning up and we'll just take a little whirly gig doodle here go ahead in here and just peel this out let's put a slight reverse camper on this so you can see here that that's starting to clean up cut in the opposite direction and called it until all of those previous marks [Music] disappear now all this is chattering because i got it sticking up out of the vice a long way so that you all can see it as we're starting to milk all this off you'll see that this solder will start coming down smooth and you wind up with this nice looking muzzle here now we got a little bit of a run out there so i'm on either side and i'm checking to make sure that this thing is flat this way and then it's flat this way so you can draw file these you can there we go now we're down flat now we're down flat we're going to bring the muzzle to the top down just a little bit more okay so that surface is that way that surface is that way we're just about there we gotta go this way just a little bit okay and then we put a little bit of um grit paper on our file here and we just take a little bit of this crocus cloth here and just kind of there you go they shine right up you could actually get a usable set of muzzles out of those before we blew these things we really need to get this sucker up on a test stand and run it so we'll shoot this gun we'll run around out of each barrel make sure the ribs you know don't wind up in mexico somewhere we have the completed tubes hung in the test stand here because we want to find out whether or not the tubes are going to hang together there's another test i'm going to do i'm only going to load one round and bolt hammers because i'd like to see just if the disturbance sets one off let me make sure it locks shut this isn't the tightest gun on the planet um okay that was the forward trigger we're gonna do that one first okay stayed on a test stand not bad the other hammers stayed hung this round looks good let's go for the left barrel there i'm gonna both hammers again well it looks like the tie wraps took it in his shorts but hit on it hung around let's have a look here open this up yeah pops right out nothing expanding nothing weird since the tie wraps have done almost all of the work of cutting themselves loose we'll just cut them loose here and take a look at these tubes and pop them off so if the solder held they should still ring like a bell and that little rattle you're hearing is the ejector yeah so these hung up outstanding let's get them inside and blow them maybe here we have it we sandblasted and blued because when they were buffed they were all wavy and you got to knock the sheen off of these things um so here's the fun part about this at the end of the day we've expended all of that labor to get this job back to where it was when i bid it originally which was to fix hosed up wood and correct a couple of things um and all of this effort um just to get back to zero there's effort you expend when you're learning something and then there's effort you expend where you're not learning anything this pile of springs right here this is a pile of springs i don't know if you can see this all of them are broken screwed up or dejected and this is one of the guys that i'm teaching how to make springs and how to build his own gun and he made all of these mistakes and then he fixed four revolvers and a long gun so he was learning he was making mistakes and learning he's made more mistakes how many guys he made a hand for a revolver it wasn't right but he made a hand for it then when he made the second hand it worked so the real question becomes is you know have you made enough mistakes of qualified of learning anything i would certainly hope so get out there grab some tools and get on with it there are no real mistakes there are merely negative outcomes go make a few learn something because if you ain't screwing up you ain't learning anything and it's been a pleasure to solder a set of ribs for you guys and like i said unless you got a pair of stones a crane and a big cargo net i don't recommend you do it [Music] you

Channel: Mark Novak

Views: 187,165

Rating: 4.9105005 out of 5

Keywords: #anvilgunsmithing, @anvilgunsmithing, Mark Novak, Anvil, Gunsmithing

Id: ygC6mrpVz74

Length: 51min 19sec (3079 seconds)

Published: Thu Oct 01 2020