Anvil 086: Type 99 Arisaka duffel cut repair

this is sweet a type 99 with its dust cover with the optimistic use of anti-aircraft sights it has the bipod on it emperor signs still on it the chrysanthemum is on ground this is absolutely museum-grade stuff and thank god a g.i brought it back and you know how we know a gi brought it back because the forend isn't hooked up let's get a duffel cut repair done on this absolute unicorn arisaka and down the rabbit hole we go brother because it's going to be deep this time [Music] well first of all the finish on this old girl is amazing i don't know where this rifle would have come from but holy cow all right we're noticing a few things right off the bat there's some damage here as this site is retracted and these wings are down when this when this duffel cut was pulled back into this it's been ramming into that wood so we need to terminate that by fixing this problem so we're going to pull that side out to get it out of the way i'm going to tell you i've pre-broke the torque on this screw but this torque was in this screw was in there good because uh someone was putting a fabulous amount of torque on it i can't even keep the screwdriver in it someone will put a fabulous amount of torque on this thing in an attempt to squeeze all this together and that's not going to work so we'll just get this bipod out of here okay and that's where we're going to stop right there there is a definitely definable gap that has been left by the forend properly coming up underneath the rear sight here and then the hole in this bipod this hole lines up with that screw when there's about that much wood there yes we could probably get away with just gluing this fore end up but then the gun gets about an eighth of an inch shorter and other things there's nothing on the front of this that lines up but on a mauser that missing wood becomes an issue we're going to put the spacer in here because it's the correct thing to do because in the center line of the hole here will be in the right place when all of this lines up back there as we make this repair we have to be cognizant of the fact that the gun's going to be grabbed by the forend and it's just going to be lifted so whatever repair we make here has to be strong enough to stand picking the weapon up by the front end and having the gun take off that way the gun's going to go that way under recoil and it's going to try to leave all this behind and the whole gun will take off and pull all this off so we're going to try to repair this in a way that you can't see what we did we can't this is that japanese tung oil varnish stuff i don't know i'm not an expert on it but i also know that there's no way in hell i'm going to be able to duplicate it repair it or in other w in other words to be able to hide a repair here so we're not allowed out from underneath this band of metal and we're not allowed up we're not a lot of round you will however see this with the band off and you will see it if you have the action out of the stock we've disassembled the action from the stock and one of the things we noticed up inside this action is that there's a lot of cosmoline still up in it and other than this thing had to have been carried by a guard or something because it it's my god the bluing on it is awesome we're going to have a couple of problems right off the bat in that there is cosmoline and oil ingress into the end grain that way so we're going to have to shave a little bit of this and we're going to have to shave a little bit of this also going back towards that hole we don't have a very large web here so there's a limit to how far back we can go and still have whatever's left to the end of this cut be hanging on we'll get to that we could reinforce through this cleaning rod hole but i'm i'm going to choose not to we're going to reinforce up right here where the pencil is down this axis we're actually going to drill in and i don't know if what we're going to use um probably a screw but we're going to hide that repair in this web of wood right here and one other issue here that really got us was this front sight has got a stake in it and i'm going to hold it to where you there it is look at that you can see it right there there's a stake here a pin going through the front sight and on this side someone has popped it right there there's the pop so i'm not entirely positive that i want to run the risk of damaging the front end of this in order to um get it off the gun there we go in order to get it off the gun so that i can get the nose metal out of the way so this entire evolution is going to be done with all this claptrap mounted on a gun just because i'm not going to screw it up enough to get it out of the way and it buys us nothing um it buys us nothing so the first thing we got to calculate is the distance between the back end of this band and the center line in this hole that's the distance we have to make back up with a chunk of wood so that this hole centers up on this hole so when we stack that up the real question becomes how far this way do we have to wedge this thing so we could sit here and measure this all day but i think what we're going to do is glue a piece of wood to this and then shave it down until this bolt drops through let's get on about that so this has to be level and it's not this cut starts here and rocks all the way back to here so we have to get the high spots on this ever so slightly nicked down what he's removing more wood well if the joint isn't strong enough to pick the gun up by it doesn't matter how much of the original wood was there so all i'm doing now is just shaving down the high spots and it's all being done optically i'm setting this down pulling my head over here and looking at it and i know i'm really high up here because we don't want to depend totally on the glue after glass is some amazing stuff but we don't want to depend totally on the glue to do all the work we want the joint to have some integrity and you guys have seen a house built in the last 30 years and you wonder how the hell all the nails are holding it together because there sure isn't getting any carpentry in it okay i'm gonna go a little bit more here i'm doing this optically it doesn't have to be flawless the guy to cut this off you know cut it off with a i don't know a sawtooth bayonet we'll get this down we're almost there it's only the point is this um this edge this surface right here has to be flat and perpendicular to the long axis of the barrel when we're all done in order to make it go and it's still you can see it's still rocking right right there i'm not using inletting compound yet because the whole end of this stalk is still black and we wouldn't see it and actually what's happened is is that this edges rock back a little bit because the foreign has been pounding on it for all these years and it's kind of rolled it off a little bit and yet i would tell you that these are the two surfaces right here that are the most critical that we get glue adhesion on i'm making slicing cuts because i don't want to come up against the end of this and blow a scab off and have the whole end of this piece of wood just go like that and snap off so you got to be kind of careful stupid sharp chisels really help here because i am cutting end grain and i'm going to admit to you that i don't know what kind of wood this thing is made out of but it's pretty dense i don't know i'm not a i'm not an expert on world war ii japanese equipment i started this cut with a chisel because i wanted to start getting the angularity right and once i got down to where i wanted to be i'm roughing it up with this with this rasp because i actually want a little bit of tooth on the surface here as you can see that inlet black dark down almost all of this and get it right there right there you can see there's black across almost this entire surface and i have almost 100 contact so this piece is home so now we're going to go work on the next piece [Music] that'll do for the duffel cut the ramrod hole is drilled to this drill bit i don't know the exact size of it i just pulled it out and it seems to be about right and then that's going to allow the the cleaning rod to drop down in this hole um we just finished cutting up a block of walnut here to go ahead and get us a um a block here let's get let me get a little bit of light down here so you can see what's going on all right so i've pre-drilled the hole through there and this is just so that the cleaning rod can get in and out and that'll be it now that's not what's going to give us our strength i'm not going down that hole what i'm going to do is i'm going to drill another hole right here and i'm going to tap it with this tap and once we tap that we're going to thread this threaded rod down inside the hole that's going to be right there now the threaded side of this is mechanically gripping the back end of the gun the other side of this is going to go in a hole that we're going to wind up drilling in the uh in the fore end here let me reach in front we're going to drill a sloppy hole right here so that this can rattle around because there's no way we're going to get this and this concentric it's just not going to happen people are going to want to know why i didn't tap both sides and screw it all down you drill this hole you drill this hole and then you try to screw all that together and you're going to tell me that that's going to sit there and it's going to be perfectly in line with the barrel i'm going to tell you that there's some other than good nicaraguan filler in that cigar you're smoking we're gonna split the difference here and go right down in there and then do an idiot check on whether or not that's right and i'm going to tell you that drill bit's a bit big so the time to find out that that drill bit's a bit big is before you got that hole run all the way down and you're running out of you're running out of threads here so i know what the charts say but i'm looking at that and going yeah we're cutting through wood this isn't steel we're gonna be all right so we'll do it this way here let me reach up over the top all right and then we're going to tap this now when we try to shove glue down in this hole with this screw there's going to be a hydraulic force being exerted that will crack this stock and you're thinking oh there's no way that a little bit accurate glass of cracker stock trust me so we will wind up drilling down inside this barrel channel we're going to wind up drilling a glue escape hole down at the bottom of this hole so that as we're ramming this glue down the air has got somewhere to go you may think this is a little ridiculous tapping a wood hole but just you just gotta this works really well it also works really well for holding the nose pieces on um that are made out of that really really gooey ebony you tap you tap that hole and it'll keep this rod in here and it'll also give me a way to secure the glue joint that i think you're going to find kind of novel so now we know that that's going to run down in that hole and then now i'm going to drill a hole through this and we'll set this down on here and then while that is sitting down in the right spot we'll go ahead and take a 1032 nut and we'll run it down over the top of this and we'll be able to pull a little bit of torque and we'll have our own clamp for a glue joint all right make that hole a little bit larger stand by that's going to fit down there like that and then we know we'll know that these two holes are lined up because that goes all the way down like that all right cam ring was a little off here but this drill bits behind it it doesn't matter if any of this is straight when it's all done it's going to be buried so this is how deep that hole is that hole comes all the way back to here we don't need it to go back that far we only needed to go back about there so we're just going to drill a glue escape hole right there and it doesn't have to be very large one um i'm picking out a like a 3 30 seconds drill bit or whatever now do not take the drill bit and go all the way through the damn stock don't do that so i'm going real slow and i got my finger here because i can feel if it for some strange reason shows up but it should fall into that screw hole any time now there it is okay that's where it's got to stop right there do not drill that hole all the way out the bottom of that stock trust me i've mixed up some acro glass here and we're just going to start pushing this glass down in the hole until we can see it come out the chip escape hole we don't have to fill this hole all the way up but it's really going to make our lives a little bit simpler oh no we got some in the ramrod oh yeah we got some in the ramrod hole we'll go back and pull that out a little bit now mind you we're not gluing the forend on right now we're gluing on the spacer we cut up a lot of walnut for this gun now i take the screw and we'll roll this screw we'll roll the screw in the glue just go ahead and we'll sit here and what we're doing what we're going for is not only do we get the chemical bonding of this nylon based epoxy this stuff is nylon but we also get the mechanical bonding to the screw threads in case you guys are wondering i am not sponsored by brownells i talk about acura glass and i use a lot of it for the because it works i'm not paid to use it they don't give me any of it i'm not soliciting them to give me any of it i'm just telling you why it shows up i'm not a spokesman for anyone if i use something that's because it works now we can agree that we have a pretty good pretty solid okay i didn't tap down any further than that is what i didn't do i have a whole bunch of these little cheesy vice grips laying around because these little cheesy vice grips are really really good for doing this we'll keep winding that keep an eye ball let me know if you see anything coming out is there okay well we know one thing's for sure it's not coming out the top okay and that's fine we're down a long ways we've got this stick in there a long ways okay got that where i want it and yes i did just bend this rod over a little bit it's not that precise we just got to have a mechanical right now i could pick this entire gun up by this screw and it wouldn't fall out right a lot of weight on that we know it's glued in and then the glue did not hydraulically lock in behind it we're going to be good so then we can take this block and we're going to get the glue on the end grain on the back of the block one thing i've noted about acura glass is you have to wet both surfaces whatever you don't wet it won't adhere to this stuff is kind of um it has almost a um i don't know like a oh an aliphatic resin aliphatic resins like to soak into the pores tight bond if you will they like to soak into the pores i'm going all the way to the edges of this when i'm buttering it because i want to make sure that i cover everything up here now we did get some glue down in that hole and we're just going to pop a drill bit down through it and we'll clean that hole out later before we get ready to put stack the top on it and then this side of the hole we'll plug this side of the hole with a um a little bit of wood glue not wood glue of the putty we'll put a little bit of putty in this hole and then we can just go in there with a long drill bit and tap that out so we don't have to fight it all right so we slide down here like this and we already know that this fits okay we already know that that fits so that's down pretty good now here comes the trick let me wipe this glue off here because i don't want to trap this nut in here okay okay now i can run this nut down over this stud like this now this nuts gonna come back off that's not gonna live here but what this nuts doing is pulling up on this rod which means it's pulling down on this seal and i'm getting a little bit of squeeze out right around the edges here and that nut will make damn sure that no matter what happens this thing sits down tight and then the glue that was on the rod around it will also capture it we will then come back pop this nut back off again now the way i just did this it made it a pain in the neck to get this thickness right but it makes the repair better if you did this repair without the stud in it for alignment initially it would be easier to surface this off but you would never get this bonding strength that we're creating here so i'm opting for a little bit more work and the endangerment of the edges on my chisels because as we clean this up we'll have to be coming right up against that right i mean i'm opting for that that's a choice all right i'm gonna push this epoxy and we'll get right back here i'm just gonna put a hot lamp over it and and do that now if you do this this is an led lamp and all that's doing is just making it really bright so we'll take this led lamp out and we'll fly in here with this 200 watt turkey brooder light and this fixture has a ceramic inside in it that allows me to get this big time light on it okay and what i'm doing now is i'm just supplying heat this is a an endothermic reaction as this epoxy kicks so what i'm doing now is just supplying it with the energy that it needs to complete the chemical reaction our glue joints good and tight i mean this thing is that ain't going anywhere in fact i am going to move that off from behind there because i want a slightly darker background for you guys to be able to see up against okay the real trick is going to be to figure out and i'm not i don't even have this thing on how thick does this chunk of wood have to be in order to make this hole back up the right way that it's only going to be about that thick it's not going to be really thick but when you're cutting on that big-ass bandsaw you don't want to get that piece of wood much thinner than that it'll blow up suck your hands into it whatever so we've got to figure out the thickness of the barrel band back here and how far up we got to go so the first thing we've got to do is get all this wood out of the way that doesn't need to be here and we're just going to pop this stuff off now we're cutting this end grain and it will fleck see so we got to be very careful that we don't blow a piece of this off and wind up screwing ourselves we also got to be careful that we don't run into that piece of wood with this chisel so i'm using my two ounce ball pin and i'm just very very lightly knocking off these scabs and i'm gonna go all the way around doing this just until we get where we want to be and so on and so on add infinite ad nauseum i'm just gonna i gotta get this camera out of the way because if i make a mistake here this isn't the gun you learn on that's all i got to say about that all right in this shot you can see now i've come back in and just finished knocking all this off um we've removed some of the finish right here it's nice and light but not much but i i had to in order to get this line down smooth or else the metal will never fit over it we'll just get this nut out of here if we can or down through here [Music] so what we're removing here is all that epoxy i filled up the hole and i'm going to admit that there is something mildly nerve-wracking about hand drilling on our soccer that's this nice but sooner or later you just got to suck it up and get on with it all right so the real question becomes this how thick does this chunk of wood need to be in order to set this thing down over the top of it and have it line up now that's obviously too thick so what i've done is i've taken a measurement and it doesn't matter that these calipers are not on it doesn't matter this is just a space this is wood it's all sand at low tide so what i did was i measured to the back side of that hole where the back side of that is so that's where the back side of the hole's got to be right there and then we need to be a little bit thinner than that i'm looking for a pencil right here a little bit thinner than that oop let me turn that on right there so this spacer only needs to be this thick and then we start shaving it in until we move this much more there's not going to be a whole lot of that spacer there but that's not that big of a deal so we'll just go around and measure all the way around we'll transfer that line that's our cut down two line and then below that then we're starting to shave so we don't need to be all that um all that concerned until we get down on the other side of this right here but i will tell you what this that's pretty solid that's not going anywhere this thing is going to be one solid chunk of gun when we get done with it so now to cut this off i could take this down with a chisel but i think i'm actually going to get out a um get out either a hacksaw or a back saw and knock all this down kind of like this [Laughter] now someone's going to ask why didn't you just take this over on the band saw and cut it yeah that bandsaw is a monster just pop that right there knock that off so you can see what we're doing all right and we'll just keep cutting with all that wood in the way and we'll hear the saw sing up against that stud in a minute so oh that was a lot of fun wasn't it okay so now we've kind of got this walnut rough down here and you can see from the edge there's the top edge and this is where it turns into the native gun so now the rest of it is just milking it down until we get exactly the right distance um and this is where not having the nose metal on the gun is going to really start getting in the way ordinarily you drag this file all the way down this channel but i don't want to take the finish off the inside of this channel oh yeah so that slides back on there like that and then we look at the offset of the hole and we have that much more material to remove and then the whole square up so then we reset our depth gauge we've got to remove that much more material now i don't have this thing turned on on purpose we're working with wood here it's not that precise but that's about how much more back we've got to go so we have to remove that much that doesn't tell us how long it has to be totally um i guess we could back that down there put a never such a small pencil line there right and that still gives us how much more we have to remove so i guess i'm going to get on about that we got to take that much off that's not leaving a whole lot behind and there the kerf wasn't that large but it was big enough to actually take the time to go after it and when we go to glass this thing back together again i'm guessing we'll reset this nose metal and we'll just glue this whole thing together and allow the barrel to uh be a guide well what about barrel harmonics and all the thing it did really a lot of people give guys that use dremel tools ration of shit dremel tools have a place in the gun gun smithing world they're just not your go-to tool i'm knocking the end off of this stick i'm knocking the end off of this stick just so that um it's a little bit long and it was sticking into a into a mud hole there's a um a dirt escape hole for the ramrod channel and i wanted to shorten this down a little bit a lot of work to get that spacer in there but it was worth it because when we're all said and done our support screw goes underneath the barrel band screw goes over the top of the cleaning rod channel and it's going to hold all this together at the correct length so the next thing to do is to jig this thing back up in the vise and figure out how to get this whole can of worms back together again and glue it i don't know if you can see it but there's a little white blob right here and that little white blob is squeezed out i put two more anti-rotation nails in it i just tapped them in and let the glue squeeze out but that's what it looks like when it squeezes out um i intend to have a small area of glass bedding in here i intend this barrel to actually sit down in this mess just because it's going to unify it and tie it all together it's going to be there and there's not much we can do about it but if you don't have this glue up here for this barrel to sit in then the stock's free to rattle around and then this repair will just come apart at some time in the future and we are straight into how does mark know that how does he know that wow this wood is very brittle and this whole gun is just falling apart right out from underneath me so i have to be very very careful about how i allow this thing to shed i'm all this buttered okay so now we gotta come on up in and let all that land bang now all of this squeeze out is happening underneath the barrel bands so that's important to know now bring this pig in here like this and i've already put mold release here you got to have some kind of wax or something don't just set this action down in here because you will not retrieve it tomorrow morning okay so that'll sit in there we cannot bring this metal back here but we can kind of trap the nose metal there and then we're gonna wrap this up yeah be able to knock that off we're going to be all right that'll all release i got squeezed out all the way around so what i'm gonna do now is i'm gonna take some of this rubber stuff i got i don't have to kill this one when i did that vergero i had a really whale on it for girl yeah you got it all right i'm gonna cut right over the top here and then come on around there we go i got all that and i don't have any glue on the stock i wiped it all off because remember we said that with this finish cannot be messed with right here we go we'll check alignment yep that's going to clean up just dandy go in here we'll grab that glue out of that hole over here and we'll grab this out of this hole and then this is just something else i don't have to deal with tomorrow because this is going to sit overnight we're not going to push this we're just going to let it go and it's going to sit here overnight and it's not for the faint of heart i'm showing you guys how what i'm doing here and i cannot tell you how many of these jobs i screwed up learning how to do i mean they worked but how many of them were the engineering didn't quite work or they weren't strong enough or they broke until i figured out what you got to do and i would tell you that a parts correct type 99 with an unground mons is not the gun you learn on just saying well we waited overnight for this to set up so the proof of the pudding is in the eating we'll go ahead and grab this off this rubber tubing is amazing stuff it'll put about three to five thousand pounds of pressure so while it looks like i pulled it down i don't want to pull it down so tight that i actually uh crunch down on the wood i know again i'm going to bring up the fact that oh you ruined the barrow dynamics if you don't bed this this will come you got to bet it because you're using the barrel as part of the stock strength um because the wood is like a whole big bundle of soda straws right and you can't butt glue wood together and have it carry any load any more than you can butt glue together a piece of kite string it just doesn't work okay so we'll get this rubber off of here okay we'll pull this back take this out of the stock now we're going to use the the weight let me go ahead and close this up we're going to use the weight of the gun against itself and we're just going to drop it on the bench like that and allow that weight to pop it free and we've got ourselves a nice little pool pull up on this now but there it is it fell out which means our mold release worked and then the last thing i want to show you is you know you got it when the stock has a it just bounces like this that's one piece we're not losing any energy in there so i know that's a good repair because it bounces in both directions all right we're gonna change camera angles let's clean this mess up ah the first thing we're gonna do here is clean out this screw hole now we got a little bit of breakout we got a little bit of breakout there's a very very thin web in between the uh this screw channel and the top there's not a lot of material here so that just pops off clean because we didn't wet the surface we don't have to peel any wood off you can just very very gently take this and just nibble this off and then see that rides right off because it's not sticking to the surface because we didn't wet it now in the spots where we wet it like back when we did the chip we got it on both sides it sticks really well okay and we got that that's flat across here so i think we actually scored okay so the inside of this channel is glass hang on a minute let me get this set just right in the vise here so the inside of this channel what we've done by running this glass from here to here is created what amounts to a sheer web across the top not a sheer web but more of a a tension element this glue here has become part of how we're getting load around this because we're going to grab the gun up here and be able to move it around you can see here i can move this whole stock nothing's moving i mean this is this is working pretty well here okay so some of the things that i had to work around was this is a mud escape hole here if you're shoving this ramrod down through here underneath and down into the bottom you got to have a place if you get mud to be able to go in and clean this out all right so that's clean we got all this stuff off the top here we're good here and yeah i put like a 16th of an inch of this stuff in here if you look real careful let's see if i can actually get you to see it there's some wood grain showing right there you can actually see it's kind of brownish it's not very thick but it is there and it needed to be there okay so let's go ahead and continue cleaning the rest of this up i'll roll this up so you can see what i'm doing you know all this is underneath that barrel band okay you have to take slicing cuts here because what you don't want to do is have this chisel blow through this clay bang and hit that there and drive a scab off and i'm going to tell you i had to learn that the hard way over a long period of time let me just peck this off okay there we go okay and you can see this edge right here where the glue is kind of dribbling over the top and all we're going to do is just go in and milk that edge off knock that out okay now we're going to have to take some of this wood out of here just a little bit of it i'll come back in and stain it we've got to get this when this when wood breaks like this or gets cut it just doesn't sit there idly for 50 or 60 years it absorbs water and this end of the stock here grew and this end of the stock grew so this does not equal this anymore and it probably didn't equal that before he even got it home while it was still in his duffel bag so it's gonna move it's not gonna be an exact fit i don't care how good you are now some of this looks like impact damage here from years of having been slammed together all right we'll roll this around so that the bottom is in sight here and i'm a right-handed guy and you have to have this camera angle because i've got to stand over here because this isn't the gun you learn on i would love to be showing you i'd love to have the camera where the chisel is but it's not going to happen so all we're doing now is just milking off this little bit of extra here and it's just popping off because we didn't smear it in if we didn't smear the glue in it's just popping off here and the real trick in this whole evolution was to get see we got a ramrod hole going under we got this screw hole going over and then we had to make the the reinforcing rods run across the top of it and this is like a new york subway system going on in here it got pretty busy oh yeah see that goes right through there we're good we're getting close to putting the metal back on this thing let's see here got that cleaned up good um a little bit more right here yeah this swell just a little bit and again i can do this as long as i'm under the as long as i'm under that barrel band i can even this out the alternative for this gun would have been to spend the rest of its life in a museum or on a gun rack where it could not be operated could not be handled and the owner of this gun is a prolific hand loader and he intends to operate it sparingly but operate it demonstrate it and let everybody watch it run which i'm all for okay we're clean there a little bit more here i hope this isn't coming through on the microphone but we're having one of those typical south carolina days where the breeze blows in off the ocean and it meets the atmosphere which is rising and i live under this tropical convergence zone every afternoon and it's raining like a cow whizzing on a flat rock right now so if you hear that i'm sorry and we'll try to filter that out bruno is an amazing guy when it comes to tricking your ears okay we've done that and let's see here nope that goes all the way up there i'm sorry yeah seeing all that's going to lay on there nice and flat check that noise out this hasn't been tensioned in years but there's a slight reverse curve to this thing and i'm going to leave that there so that when we clamp the rear end of it and we clamp the front end of it there's a spring force holding it all in so it won't slide all over the okay well i'm going to change camera angles here and go ahead and get the metal in this thing okay so i've made a drill bit out of a piece of drill rod um and just cut the ends on it don't overthink this guys the whole function of this drill rod is to uh just knock the glue out of the channel uh right here yep cleaning rod goes all the way in don't overthink that drill bit guys it ain't that hard all right i put some oil up underneath this just do a little bit of light lube work this gun was clean it wouldn't fleck a rust on it there was however a lot of cosmoline on it clean that off come up in underneath here and then we'll bring the fore end top wood in like this set that back against that and that actually rocks down into a recess you can feel it click when it's in the right way we'll bring this back up against there i'm not going to clean the screw head up because i wasn't i was told to just fix the duffel cutting i'm not being a jerk here but one of the mistakes you can make as a gunsmith is to do too much and i'm not saying that in a you know and just i'm doing what the customer told me to do so we've screwed that down and i'm telling you that is tight look at that we can we can bend the whole gun um by the by the fore end here that slides back i'm gonna get up here like this okay that slides back and then um we've put the foreign wood up in here and then there's screws laying all over the shop oh my god you talk about some small ass screws holy cow this has got to be like a .4 thread modulus these are some of the finest screws i've ever seen they're huge too so they're like m6 by 0.4 it's it's it's pretty big for um new english guys this would be like a 12 50 or 1260 screw really fine pitch okay one goes in there we feed one to the gravity gods which bruno is retrieving one comes back up here one comes back up here unlike french contemporary french weapons which the french were really obvious about the fact that they didn't want their front line guys disassembling something this entire gun can be torn down with one single size screwdriver and a lot of these screw heads are somewhat damaged because they've had a lot of torque put on them because they've been trying to compensate for this duffel cut okay we'll run this guy in wait a minute there's a piece of metal missing off the front of this standby i'm gonna go grab it there it is this is just a forward reinforcing piece which needs to be up in there and entrapped by that screw so let's get that screw out and we'll put that up in there okay there we go the whole front end of this gun is modular it just perplexes me that what you would have to do to get the forehand metal off it okay and then that extra screw head right there axe as the swivel stop to hold this this uh bipod up and uh that's pretty much the whole front end of the gun now we'll see if the cleaning rod will go in it and then there's a depressible right there it's like a there's a catch on the bottom of this you run this cleaning rod in you get there and you push up on this and it captures the cleaning rod i'm assuming right there it captured unless you uh push it where'd it go i lost it there it should push up on it and it should give me the cleaning rod back well there it goes so that holds that in so that's positive retention and then you go back here to this completely insane anti-aircraft site so like if you're leading a target my thumb's the front sight you can see you would put it out there on the bar at various angles so that's dead on but that's saying that i'm leading the target to the right or my thumbnail again i'm leading the target to the left i think that's the theory behind this it's awfully optimistic to uh the the there's a lot of variables involved in that we'll fold this bad boy up this goes back down this boys and girls right there i think we got it yeah um something else i want to show pop up in here get right up in here and i'm going to try to cross like this but i don't know if you guys can see this but somebody has had this thing in a vice before me let me see if i can get the light on this exactly right there's a lot of little flecks right there yeah right there there we go that whole dark band right there is a whole bunch of stuff where this gun got held in a vise probably to cut it but once again we don't get to enjoy this gun if it hadn't been cut already then duffle cut repair designed so that you can handle the gun and look in it and handle it and move it around like a military gun has moved around and i gotta tell you what japanese type 99 arisaka anti-aircraft rear bipod original dust cover and an unadulterated mons i'm going to tell you what it's still an amazing piece of kit to this day not a war emergency gun fascinating and as always it's been a pleasure to share this with you [Music] um

Channel: Mark Novak

Views: 450,709

Keywords: #anvilgunsmithing, @anvilgunsmithing, Mark Novak, Anvil, Gunsmithing

Id: IPpq4o1XtjY

Length: 56min 22sec (3382 seconds)

Published: Thu Aug 20 2020