ABANDONED MOWER 10+ YEARS OUTSIDE - Will it Run?

this is a wheel horse lawn ranger manufactured between 1969 and 1973. join me as i attempt to get it working okay so yeah welcome everybody to a new will it run video this one is going to be a challenge i think the first thing to do is to clean off all this dirt and then we'll see if it's actually worth doing hopefully it is but yeah this has been outside for many years this engine doesn't pull over i need to work out if it's just the recoil that's seized or if the coil is seized to the flywheel or if it's internally seized these wouldn't be metric also this engine dates back to 1977 which is newer than the machine itself i don't know the exact date of the machine but as i said at the beginning 69-73 this side does seem to be an imperial bolt yep 7 16. quite a difference between them that's the original the front ones are original too well it's no mice that's something so it's not the recoil this is still seized ah there we go so yeah it was seized to the coil which is exactly the same problem as what the mount field had so probably with a new pull cord and a new handle this will be okay seems to work okay i think that is just getting stuck on the deck the deck spindles are probably all seized and the recoil clutch does turn very slowly and also the cobweb in here it's impressive but yeah i'll test the coil carburetor is gonna have to have proper clean i've not looked in the fuel tank yet do you can see the water in the fuel which is no surprise but i'm amazed how clean the tank is really it's not too bad so and here we have what is left of the deck not much um so everything except for maybe that idler there that pulley is seized which is no surprise it's been left outside for years that one might free off but that one is seized that one's pretty much seized so yeah it's always hard to appreciate how rotten something is on camera i'll see what i can do with it it might be possible to free them off but i don't know if it's worth it you can see some patch of job here which i'm not even sure is made out of metal might have been a very thin piece of sheet metal with powder coat on it what i'm more interested in is seeing if it will now turn over if it does kind of but that could still be the the polis for the transmission belt it certainly sounds like we came from underneath rather than inside the crank case also you can see the bag being sucked in which certainly would show that there is a piston moving up and down yeah i'm confident that's going underneath it's freeing off anyway but what i need to do before i turn it over anymore is actually look inside the ball with the endoscope which is going to be a little bit difficult so much space to get in but i'm going to try my best i'm going to put the endoscope in through the spark plug hole and we'll take a look inside here i'm expecting quite a bit of water corrosion it's moving the piston down it's coming back up again so i just don't want too much debris in here you can see a scratch on the side of the ball there and there is certainly water in there yeah that's all water corrosion i'm not 100 sure if they are actually deep scratches or if it's just dirty marks from where the piston has moved down the combustion chamber but you can see there is quite a bit of carbon and other debris in here i'm going to attempt to unpop the engine and turn it around because i can't get the head off with it like this there just isn't enough space i've tilted the mower over and look at that all the water pouring out the seat this integrated seat is like a sponge so let's take a look under here as you would expect in fairly rough shape i would say it's better than that man feel which i did this is the front where the engine is of course somebody has actually been in here before because it's not the original engine so that has been that pulley has been removed before i don't necessarily need to remove the pulley i'm hoping just to rotate the engine fairly perished belts but they can be replaced so so before i involve the engine i'm just going to check the coil but i don't think it's going to be any good it looks very similar to the one which was in the mount field even rustier um the terminal on the end is rotted off some of it's in here a rusty mushy mess and that's what's left of it should be enough exposed there i think the coil is probably bad so in that case i'm going to try and find another coil maybe i could use one but i don't think i do have one for this engine in that case i'm going to try to find one i'll probably just get an aftermarket one see if that'll fit and then if we get to the stage of needing a coil then i'll fit it but yeah next i'm going to unbolt the engine turn it around so we can have a look inside the head and the carburetor is going to be a problem because that is absolutely filthy in there the belt is still connected underneath but i'm hoping i can just turn it on the pulley also the oil drain because it's not the original engine is in a really bad place just there opposite the engage rod i'm hoping i can drain it when i've rotated it that is in a much better place when i drain the oil i put it into a glass container so you can actually see the condition of the oil i think i'll also get another muffler try and find a use one or an aftermarket the car brush i'm hoping to use but it is really bad what i'm trying to avoid here is just replacing everything because that's not what i want to do um so yeah the plan is to fix up the carburetor the coil i've already tested and that is bad that's not gonna work obviously the muffler has had it so that needs to be replaced but everything else i'm hoping is gonna stay fairly original i've just noticed the throttle is seized so looks there's a bit of a homemade linkage set up here just look at that uh this will be interesting and that is why i've removed the head it's not really a surprise that water has been getting into here i wonder if that valve is stuck yep but i am confident this is going to be good enough to run even if it doesn't mean finding another good used valve but that one might be usable it was never already when i saw that tube it was just because i lead straight onto that valve it's the intake it was just it had to be like that it had to be in bad condition i am amazed how well the exhaust valve moves seems okay i don't want to keep turning it over though i need to clean those out and try and free the valve wow i think this will be easier on the bench amazingly that oil doesn't look too bad at all let's have a look under this valve cover yeah there's a bit of water now it's not too bad clearly the oil which was left has prevented it from corroding okay so very carefully i'm gonna hit it down with a nylon hammer i know you can't really be very careful with the hammer but there's not really many options here the valve actually has now freed off enough to return on its own with the spring but that's not really good enough i would prefer to clean it up as well i'm just attempting to remove it and there it is you can see the difference between where it was exposed to the water coming through the intake and where it was actually in the valve guide now this was being rebuilt if i was rebuilding this engine i would replace that valve but since the purpose of this video is just to see if it will run with the original parts except for the ones which have to be replaced such as the coil because there's just no way of it working um yeah we're going to keep this one in the engine i'll clean it up and then reinstall it so foreign well that's the intake port much cleaner than it was before the exhaust port is not great but it's also not terrible so i think since it is at this stage i will remove that valve as well and clean it all up just to make the job thorough and then it'd be time just to um to sandblast the pipe this pipe here and reinstall it clean a few other things up and then we'll move on to the carburetor so so so so i'm just in the process of lapping the valves as you know the intake valve really is not good but i'm fairly confident i will be able to create some kind of seal so if i just clean off this valve grinding paste i'll show you what it's looking like so far it's also very important not to get the valve grinding paste on the stem and if you do if you do get it on stem it has to be cleaned thoroughly yes as i've already said the the valve should be replaced but i'm just trying to see if we can get the engine running with what we've got and i think it will be fine i will actually be fully rebuilding one of these engines in the future probably this winter actually i'm going to do the same thing to the exhaust valve but actually it's not too bad it is quite good now what you'll probably find is these suction tools won't really work that well on a valve such as this pitted one here it doesn't really stick to it it can't create the suction but if you just add a bit of clean water to the end of it not too much just dampen it it will stick better than it would do without but this nice clean valve here it works very effectively on there are a few pity bits just here so she needs to keep going and eventually it will create a really good seal so just make sure they're nice and clean especially the valve stems you that's the valve installed interestingly according to the parts manual this engine has two exhaust springs rather than an intake and an exhaust spring and also i'm going to check the valve clearances the intake valve wants to be between five and seven fail so that is the exhaust valve fully open meaning i can check the intake this is eighth now so with a bit of luck it won't fit it doesn't it's gonna go down to seven yep just about fitting looks like it's probably going to be six sixth now okay good the exhaust valve wants to be between nine and eleven fail so we'll fully shut the exhaust and fully open the intake and i think we'll start with 10. seems good it usually is best just to start in the middle and work from there the intake valve which was stuck is now moving very freely in and out so that is the valve work completed the next thing to do is to uh to work on the head there really is some impressive corrosion it's like when you get rust worm under paintwork it's just worming its way in i'm just gonna put it through my sandblaster it's very rust on the inside of this pipe and of course the head itself is full of oxidation aluminium oxide not too worried about the exterior just need to uh to blow all this debris off with the airline that came out quite well these darker areas are the areas where it's heavily corroded as for the intake tube not too bad overall but there are a couple of pin holes just here they probably won't cause too much of an issue but i will jv weld them up uh okay so i'm now going to fit the head and the three bolts in the bottom right hand corner are the longer three i think they were probably in the wrong place before i do have a chart here which not only shows you where the longer bolts go this this head here um it's also a chart to show you the uh the pattern the tightening pattern when you come to torque the head bolts that is the order which you would you tighten them in so fairly simple stuff really the head gasket which came off it i'm going to reuse that's all loosely done up so 140 inch pounds is the torque setting for this engine and this is the first head bolt that needs to be torqued number two and then obviously just continue tightening as the diagram suggests and then at the end i like to go around everything in a clockwise pattern just to make sure everything's at the correct torque and there we go that is the head done so now i can move on to everything up here i'm gonna take the coil off i'm going to take the flywheel off and probably replace the points condenser just depends how bad they are but i i doubt they're any good that's in better days can be rotated though put two holes in ordinarily i would use a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel but as you can see there's no pre-drilled and tapped holes on here so i'm just going to use a long screwdriver and a copper mallet okay this is the part number of the new kit 294 628 and included in that kit is everything you need including this little spring compressor so you can remove the wires from the existing condenser and of course refit them to the new one so it just fits over the top you can then push down and it will release the wires yeah it's very corroded you can dispose of these because you get all this in the new kit okay so here are all the new parts including the new condenser let's get them fitted so so um moving on to the carburetor and fuel tank assembly this is pretty bad as you'd expect as bad as the rest of it but the difference is this is obviously uh the most delicate part so yeah i don't know how this is going to go firstly i'm going to remove the car brush from the tank and then i can start to clean this up and see how bad it actually is okay let's see how bad it is in here there will be two pickup tubes not sure what that is possibly a bit of paper but yeah really really dirty screen and as for the sort of float bowl equivalent that is totally rusted up it's orange with rust so yeah it looks bad but i'm quite hopeful the reason why is because this is actually made of aluminium and what we see in here is rust iron oxide so that must have come from the intake tube so maybe the car brush itself isn't that bad at all maybe just needs to have a really good clean so what i'm going to do is well just probably blow it through with the airline put a bit of carb spray through and then put it into the ultrasonic cleaner for a few years might do it no uh you're probably about 40 minutes 30 minutes yeah it's not it's not clean in there but it's not horrendous i'm confident it's gonna be okay there's a bit more corrosion in there i need to make sure all the passages are clear but that's what the ultrasonic cleaner is for and also a bit of carb spray at the end and i'll bloat through the airline let's just see if i can remove this gasket i do have a new gasket so it doesn't matter about breaking it we also have the fuel pump and again i will be changing the diaphragm under here it does sometimes get stuck oh nice i think that's the worst part yet of course it's the spring still spring yeah that's gonna need to be replaced but it's still cleanable right let's put it into the ultrasonic cleaner and see what that can do i think it's mostly just going to loosen the dirt the majority of the actual cleaning will be with the carb breast cleaner just lay this old conrod in that's a few of the delicate parts on it we have the main carburetor that's half an hour let's see what it looks like hopefully it's loosened up you can see a lot of uh floating rust yeah it's really loosened to the rust up everything's just peeling off so yeah i'm going to go with the carb spray and hopefully that's just going take all of that loose dirt off this paint which is not original is just flaking off foreign that's as clean as i can get it without using any kind of rust treatment so i do have just a very small amount of rust converter which i'm very careful going to apply but what i don't want to do is damage the aluminium so if it can just eat away at that top layer i can then wash it off and hopefully no damage will be done to anything else the same will have to be done in there so i'll just give that 10 minutes okay just going to try and assist it with a nylon brush after a quick wash that is what it looks like and i'm quite impressed it's not perfect but it's such an improvement so what do i do about this probably the same thing but i do need to be very careful again that has worked quite well there is still some rust in there but it's a big improvement i just want to say though i don't recommend putting rust conversion rust treatment in your carburetor it's just because this is so bad and the idea behind this project is to see if i can get it running i've also put some rust converter in the bowl in the top of the fuel tank as i wait for the restroom to work in the fuel tank i'm going to start to reassemble the carburetor that is tightened all the way in finger tight i'm now going to do one and a half turns out and that is my starting point for getting the right mixture sometimes that's enough sometimes you don't have to adjust it again okay so now for the fuel pump on this side we have the new parts here for the fuel pump this is the spring and this is the spring cap and let's replace the the interesting contraption that the old one turned into and that is the new diaphragm part number six 692206 is the spring and 690766 is the spring cap back to the fuel tank and the rust treatment did do quite a good job it's quite difficult to see there is some residue but the majority of the rust is out of there so i'm just going to bloat out the airline that's just gonna have to do i think it looks better in real life than it does on the camera the gasket to mount the carburetor to the fuel tank is two seven zero zero seven three okay moving on we have the starter recoil clutch and it just feels like it's really gummed up or something it barely turns should turn freely so let's remove these small bolts to begin with and then hopefully i can split it open yeah it's just full of rust lots of dirt should be nice and clean in here with the the six ball bearings but that is still barely turning in the seal i think it yeah it's just it's just filthy really dirty so it's gonna be a simple one just a good clean up and now put it back together so time to refit the fuel tank and i now have the genuine replacement linkages instead of this homemade system uh it might have worked i don't know that's original but broken we're getting there so i just need to find a new cap for the fuel tank i also need to put this terminal on the end of the ht lead and also i need to set the air gap for the uh the coil i've got some new old very old stock it's even started to corrode in its packets but yeah it'd be fine so now the terminal i'm going to put on the end of here is actually a genuine one this is an aftermarket coil but this is part number four nine three eight eight zero s uh the reason why i'm fizzing is because the one that came with it was horrific it was awful i do usually buy genuine only i didn't want to spend too much on this machine but that's what i find quite a lot of the time if you don't if you don't buy genuine you usually do get issues not always there are some good after market brands but i just like to buy genuine and now i'm going to put the original spark plug boot on it hopefully it's going to fit should do and then we should find a new spark plug one more thing i need to do is change the pull cord on this and pull handle to be more specific but i think i probably will just change everything uh it does not look pretty one bit but it does seem to work but yeah the pull cord is looking a bit frayed and very old so i'll just change it with the handle these are the new parts the grip is part number 691915 and here is uh the pull cord which i've just taken off a whole spool of lawnmower pull cord i have made the new length slightly longer since it is a smaller diameter if i was to let go of it i would lose it so it's just going to give more travel when it comes to pulling the engine over which should make it easier and it should pull through so the knot just gets tucked inside makes it nice and neat that is a new pull cord the only thing i don't have is an air filter it took the the rectangular type air box the 35 classic has a more triangular style but it might fit so and there we go just going to get an air filter for it all right so so you

Channel: Machinery Restorer

Views: 294,178

Rating: 4.8473625 out of 5

Keywords: restoration, tool restoration, hand tool restoration, mechanics, mechanic restoration, hand tool, mechanical, machinery restorer, hand tools, engine rebuild, fix, repair, briggs stratton, will it run, Will it run?

Id: l_HDEvr_eyQ

Length: 57min 18sec (3438 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 28 2020