A DEMORALIZING Turn in the Restoration of "Old Red" ~ Part 11 ~ 1950s Caterpillar TraxCavator

[Music] [Applause] [Music] wow so [Music] all right i'm trying to take this overflow uh cap assembly off the radiator cap i broke one bolt one was already broke got three more to go i just loosened this one now to try the others they're flat heads which makes them a pain especially when they strip out on top i think i got that one good shoot [Music] so i took this off because i wanted to make sure it wasn't clogged so what happens is if it gets too hot or there's too much coolant in here this overflow will open releasing the extra coolant out this tube and it should have a tube that runs straight down below that's missing here but regardless if this gets plugged up it can pressure on the coolant system causing issues um i've heard of pretty bad problems happening because of it so i wanted to take it off and just clean this valve up so essentially if you look at it if it gets too much pressure in there it lifts up allowing fluid to go through this disc up and over down into that hole and that hole goes straight down and reaches this tube so when this comes up the fluid comes up and over let's see how was it here all right like that yep that's how it works it goes up and over down into that tube that's why this cap has this lid that's angled just like that so it can go over into that hole as you can see this cap has had a repair done before somebody soldered right over the a hole that was in it [Applause] well still nothing oh sweet wasn't expecting it to come out like that [Music] sometimes when i get to this point using a four fluted tap i'll go to a two fluted tap and i can usually get a little bit more of the very end of it out because there's more room in a two fluted tap to move some of the bigger chunks that might be there at the bottom now just to check that this bypass hole which goes from here on out to this hole is open we're gonna put air to it and see if we can feel air coming out here yep it's wide open good deal so i got this all cleaned up the gasket that goes right here between is probably still fine it's in pretty good shape but the one that was below on this surface just kind of crumbled and so my plan is to just make two new ones um this should be simple enough and i might as well do it well fail that's alright boom sugar lager little copper anti-seize for these bolts awesome well now i've got a confidence that this overflow is in working condition and is not going to be all backed up and cause any other issues on the motor so that is great now what we're gonna do is we're gonna actually drain all the coolant which is only water at the moment out of the system so that we can put antifreeze in it's getting cold and last thing in the world i need is to leave water in it and get it frozen and have it cause some massive problem to the engine so we're gonna fix that right now so the coolant drains out right here and there's a threaded fitting so i'm gonna screw in this this is an adapter to allow me hook up a hose to it and it doesn't have to be crazy tight and then we're gonna hook up a hose to it and it'll be easier to drain yummy now there's a block drain right in here right above my fingers the block drain i already drained the coolant which was basically just water i'm gonna fill it back up with water we're gonna turn it on let it run for a little bit and then we'll empty it out again probably too much but oh well it'll be fine well i was trying to start the pony motor again and i heard a a pop down in there somewhere and then i got a big puff of white smoke out of the pony motor exhaust pipe man i'm pissed at least frustrated at myself not sure what happened but now it won't start at all so gosh well i'll figure it out for now we got the coolant warm enough to drain so we're gonna we're gonna do that we've got the hose basically just flushing it out and it was looking real murky now we got it down to looking clear both of the coolant plugs are going in with copper anti-seize this time so i checked the pony mars oil last night and it basically had some metal some metallic shavings in it it wasn't there weren't big chunks very fine right now it looks like the oil is now mostly mixed with gas so i'm gonna have to drain that and replace the oil i don't know what exactly happened i really hope i didn't grenade the pony motor so needless to say it's demoralizing you get to the point where you're starting to get progress and then something sets you back i look at it like this machine is 64 years old it hasn't been started in 20 plus years and from the knowledge that i have and what people told me it hasn't been operated in 35 years so i haven't had any real major setbacks in this project and this may be the first one that really sets me back because i knew that it didn't hold water i knew that it didn't hold hydraulic fluid and i knew that it didn't turn i knew those problems and so i've fixed two of the three of those and working on the third one but the pony motor issue is not something i knew and so obviously it's not fun having to figure out new problems and issues but i mean that goes along right with it so for right now i'm going to avoid putting new coolant into the motor i'm just going to leave it empty so that i can work on diagnosing the pony motor issues and not have to worry about losing the antifreeze or the water and as of right now it's empty so i'm not worried about water freezing inside of the engine block causing issues like i would be if i had left the water in there and so for now that's what i'm thinking definitely not fun with the pony motor issue and i'm not looking forward to trying to fix that or what that's going to entail but as with everything you just got to keep going through it just got to keep moving and so today i'm going to work on there's a hydraulic hose down here below this hose here it's the only one in the belly and it basically is the return line from the pump it is a monster i have talked to cat i took the part number in cat does not make it they cannot get it and i've the other one that i have i'll show it to you here shortly it has a big gash right here in the middle of it and then there's a couple other bad spots this particular one is weeping oil here at this this little nick that ding so i'm i'm gonna do something about it and the reason i want to do something about is right now it's right here i can get to it it's right in front of my face the second i put this track roller frame on right here and the belly pan on it's going to be buried it's going to be so much more work to deal with it then than it will be right now so while i'm here and while i've got it out um i've come up with a solution with the help of uh an awesome guy at the parker store and so we're gonna work on that right now i'm gonna drain all the hydraulic fluid out of the machine and unbolt this hose and i'll show you the workaround that we've uh we've come up with and he gets more buckets [Applause] so now that i got this hose out you can kind of see a spot right there see that that is a rub that's been rubbing for years because you see that rub right there into the side of that housing just basically rubbed the imprint of that hose right into it now that wasn't even really the reason that i was going to replace this the bigger reason was right here see that big gash i don't think it even all the way went all the way through but my thinking was that i replace this before it goes bad so that i don't have to rip everything out underneath to get to it this is the only flexible hose in the belly every single other hose for everything else hydraulic is accessible above the machine and so it'll be much easier to get to those hoses this one would be a nightmare especially because it looks like we've got some damage in a few places so since you can't buy this hose we've got a workaround and i'll show you that here shortly all right so here is the extra hose that i have and as you can see there's a pretty big gash all the way you know from right about there where you can see the metal banding in there all the way across and it gets less and less deep but down here is the worst this part 6h 1100 is no longer available by cat nor do they have a replacement or anything so and also these two tabs bolt flanges for hydraulics are also antiquated and no longer used so what am i going to do both these hoses have problems this one upon further inspection has a big gash right here it's got the gas that i saw it's got the wear here right along the the collar the thing the way these work is essentially there's a a collar that slate slides down into the hose and then this outer ring is crimped onto it and so because of that the plan i'm gonna use this one this one's the worst of the two if i had to keep an extra i'm gonna keep the one that was on the machine so this one i'm gonna slice this crimped collar off we're going to cut the hose out and we're going to reuse these flanges and the inner piece that slides into the hydraulic hose [Music] this is actually supposed to slide down i thought that this collar here needed to come off and so i tried cutting into it but i don't think it does i think it stays on there and so i'm gonna clean up this edge so that it's nice and smooth and not rough and then we're gonna get this whole thing all the dirt cleaned out of it um and get it all ready to use so we're gonna start on the 2 by 72 do some hogging away on this metal make it look nicer clean it up safety first i love these link isotunes over the ear headphones they are absolutely awesome and i can listen to my music without it affecting video so check them out all cleaned up new hose will go right here and it'll bolt up same way as it did gas go ring wrinkle right there so the plan is we've got some new hose two and a half inch that will essentially slip over this collar or this little sleeve will slip into it and then what we'll do is we're going to use these heavy duty hose clamps which will clamp over the hose clamping it down onto this inner sleeve that will go in and so because the fact that this part's not available it can't even be made because of the two flange bolt pattern this is a workaround that i had to figure out with the guys at the parker store and because this is a non-pressured return line like it's not a high pressure line it's going to be totally fine it will not have problems and you know you know we're not going to worry about leaking really as long as we get installed right we get these torqued down to the right torque specs and then these mated up with the o-rings that go right in here these will seal just like they did before the way they cut this hose they basically use this like guillotine thing or this it puts a bunch of pressure down on the hose and it kind of oblongs it so i'm going to slice off about half an inch here with the baby band saw to give myself a nice round section to attempt to slide the sleeve into i'm just gonna add a little lube a little oil here try and help make it go in easier almost half inch there we go that was a lot more work than i thought it was going to be hose measures about 16 and a half inches 17 inches maybe so this whole assembly is 22 and one quarter inches all right right about there [Applause] uh all right we got it made new o-rings both seals all right so it's gonna go like that but what we still have to do is we still have to clamp this hose to this fitting so we're going to be using these so essentially they have these like ribs in them that clamp down onto the hose and tighten it up and so based on where i can put this one this one's gonna have to go like right here and then this one right behind it is the oil fill or the oil dipstick for the diesel motor and so this one's not going to be able to get too far or all the way up but the this uh fitting comes out to about right here and so we can get almost the full bracket onto that fitting and because this is a low pressure hose i'm not at all concerned about it being a big issue as long as we get this clamped down and tight and then what my plan is because we still have the the the belly pan to go on is to cut off the extra piece of uh the bolt that's sticking out so that it's basically out of the way and it's not going to come in contact with that belly pan so hopefully we've got enough angle here to get that belly pan in there i guess we'll find out so that's the plan and then i'll bolt these back on and onto the flanges here on both sides all right to replace the belt we have to remove a couple lock tabs and then loosen the tensioner which is right in this area oh what do you know another loose bolt so this little locking tab basically keeps this tensioner from unscrewing that way so i think there's two of them yep now that looks broken it is interesting man this would have been easier if i had done it when i had the radiator off oh that shoulda coulda woulda and i don't live like that all right after a bunch of trying to get this loose i decided to take the whole mechanism apart [Music] gotcha [Music] i'm having trouble getting the belt tensioner assembly off the machine and so i went and i grabbed the extra one that i have this is essentially the full water pump assembly and basically i can show you here belt spins rides right in here and it turns these fins inside here and that pumps the coolant through the system and so this disc also looks much better than the ones on the machine this one's not broken and one of the machine actually has one of these tabs in there broken off and so i'm gonna have to replace it anyway so for now what i think i'm gonna do is i'm gonna take this apart and figure out how it comes apart and then i'll go back to the machine and i can go from there [Music] [Applause] all right that's what i thought this is a keyed cap you can see the keyway right there above my finger so it doesn't spin off it pulls off so all right so unfortunately i think what i'm gonna have to do to get this off i need a puller and it's pretty simple to do once i have i'm able to get a puller on it so the plan is to take off the water pump so essentially it's this piece there's seven or eight bolts and then this hose here i was really trying to avoid that because if i pull it off i'm probably gonna have to end up making another gasket for it and i was trying to avoid having to do that but this will be the safest way without really messing up the radiator and it's pretty simple to get to it's not too difficult not to mention right now i've got no coolant in it at all so there won't be any big mess when i pull it off so and i guess one more advantage is we'll get a peek in there and i haven't quite seen that far into the this part of the engine yet so all right the other thing that has to happen is to get this belt here off i've got to take off this yoke for the hydraulic pump so i gotta loosen these four bolts here and then there's four bolts on this circle plate that essentially have to come off and then i can get it off i've already got the four bolts on the circle plate off put these two back in because i have to break these nuts or these bolts loose before i can get any more so now the belt should fit right through there [Music] all right here's the removed water pump and essentially this is the belt where the belt rides and it's a big threaded screw that as you thread it further in the belt rides higher and higher and higher tensioning it tighter and tighter and so what you're supposed to do is basically unscrew this mechanism releasing the tension allowing you to get enough slack to lift the belt over and off well i couldn't do that because it was all locked up not to mention it's broken right here and i'll show that to you once we get this off um here's the inside of the pump a little bit of rust but i mean honestly when anything that's got water it's gonna have that as an issue i am gonna have to make a new gasket basically cracked right here and you know i probably ruined it just taking it off um but not a bad problem because at the end of the day now i know it'll be a a good gasket that i know is in there and installed so and then once we get it figured out and take this apart we're gonna look at this one and the extra one and decide which one's better and use the better of the two so there's the cap essentially gets pressed on a keyed shaft down to a shoulder and then it rides in there and then this tensioning mechanism for the belt should lift straight out so these are the two tensioning mechanisms i have for the belts essentially when it's installed it looks something like this it's got these two tabs that lock into it should it should be locked into one of these one of these four grooves and and this one is broken so right at this area there's a gap in the metal with space you can see right there that allows this almost like a a little bit of spring tension well this side is broken so the piece actually right here this piece should sit something like that and then there should be another little piece and it looks like you can just see where somebody took a screwdriver and trying to drive it and punched it and cracked it so when it was on the machine it was something like just barely like that when i found it and i think i ended up breaking it off the rest of the way so that's too bad unfortunate but at the end of the day it's a wonderful thing that i have too well oh definitely was broken before i touched it so i don't want any of this rusty chunks coming off in the coolant even though it'd probably be fine to just settle at the bottom but anything you can do to kind of clean something up before it goes back on always pays back dividends and less maintenance or just have not having to worry about something later on in its life all right here are the two water pumps this is the one that came off the machine and all in all it's in very very good shape um only thing there's two things about it right here this little piece of the casting broke off now this is not actually an important piece because all it does is retain a pin for installing it so it's not like it's actually structural or anything and so all the bolt holes that actually hold it on are still intact and basically that hole probably on the machine still i'd have to go look has a pin just like this one but it's still on the machine and normally they would stay in the machine clearly this one got stuck in uh the pump here if you look at this other one here that's been brazed back on and so clearly somebody else had the same issue on this pump that they did on the other one as far as that tab breaking off that does not make my decision on which pump to choose yeah this one is better because it's intact but honestly i wouldn't even really worry about that one thing i would worry about is this seal right here and as you can see right there this is the spring that should be underneath a rubber uh seal there and it's kind of sticking through and the the rubber seals there still but it is broken on this pump here all in all the bearings feel great in both pumps the they both turn perfectly other than that tab broken they're and this seal there's nothing wrong with this pump at all and so i'm not overly concerned about putting this one back on the machine but steel on this one is perfectly intact all the way around and is in much much better shape all in all i've got this better pump with the better seal the brazed on fix here you know at the end of the day the other pump is perfectly fine all i need to do is replace that seal since i've got it apart honestly it would probably work for a long long time without having doing a single thing to it but i'm at the point now where it's already off so i decided to go with this extra pump i'll make a new gasket for around here i took the wire wheel to this got all the big chunks and whatnot out of there it it spins beautifully i blew out the whole pump and the tube made sure there was nothing stuck in there from just sitting cleaned it up to the best of my ability for the moment the only thing that's wrong with this one is right here there's a broken grease zerk and so i'm gonna pull the grease zerks off check them clean them and then put probably new greasers in both um that'll take two seconds and then we'll start reassembling putting this thing back together well i'll go ahead and get the other parts cleaned up for it we are gonna go with the extra belt tensioner or the belt adjustment basically the tensioner yeah i've almost never had a use for these vice grips but they sure came in handy this time this is a thread file it's meant to clean up marred up threads and so we're going to use it here on this screw or nut or whatever it's called boom shakalaka all right clean these threads up now let's cover them in uh copper anti-seize old belt new belt so good um [Music] um all right these little walk lock tabs fit right in here and the bolts that hold them i think the longer ones go in this bolts go in the belt is in the water pump is in gasket installed fan back on u-joint below is also now back installed goodness gracious that was a lot more work than just changing a belt but that's how it is with old red probably hasn't seen this kind of maintenance in four decades so he fights me on every bit but i win every time hope you guys have enjoyed more to come have a great day

Channel: Salvage Workshop

Views: 848,663

Keywords: restoration, Machine restoration, tools, old machinery, caterpillar, cat, hitachi, yanmar, ihi, kobelco, repair, heavy machinery, earthmover, earthmoving, komatsu, heavy, tracked, farming, tank, john deere, case, crawler, bulldozer, dozer, track loader, crawler Type, material handler, track type tractor, diesel, mechanic, Salvage Workshop, Restore, tractor, forgotten, american, IH, solving problems, skid steer, CTL, hydraulics, doosan, Liebherr, volvo, sany, XCMG, Terex, JCB, JLG, Kubota, Bobcat, Takeuchi, New Holland

Id: U6A4sxbQtx4

Length: 52min 54sec (3174 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 08 2020