First start of the Caterpillar D4! Sixteen months in the making!

all right guys welcome back to the channel so I think in this video you're finally going to see this thing started it's been 16 months worth of work since I started the project but uh there's just a couple things left to do we'll get right into that but by the end of this video I think you're going to see this thing running and even maybe even moving under its own power if you watch the last video you already know I gotta rebuild this water pump it's leaking the other thing here is there's this is the fuel line of the engine it needs to connect it's right there underneath the fuel tank once that's done I gotta bleed the fuel system then I gotta dump some fluids in and we should be about good to go I bet you only have to take one half of the Shroud out there we go okay this hose is unhooked so I think it's just there's like six or seven bolts around the outside here okay so the goal here is to not ding up my brand new 900 radiator core so I'm gonna take I did take the fan shred out I'm gonna take this pipe out because once this comes out I'm gonna be fighting this fan belt that's going to want to go down and then it's going to fall forward and ruin the smash the radiator core a little water left in there a lot of water left in there boo foreign I missed a bolt back here okay yep oh what's heavy it's heavier than it looks easy easy yeah no damage let's take a look in here some light on this of course it's gonna zoom out as much as possible here not bad really uh there's some some old uh this is old RTV but you know that's not bad at all it's way better than the other pump on the old engine it's like a brass impeller it's been off before I cannot find any of my impact sockets I think I left the whole rack of them at that place where I got the winch recently I'm gonna have to go back and find them there we go my goodness by the way this fan definitely not installed backwards you can look at the surface there it feels like I was just doing this recently so I got new seals so I'm going to replace this one again but the new ones I got are actually a little bit beefier we've got a lock ring here it's all brass another washer some kind of sealing washer behind that don't want to go too hard on this since it's not Steel okay that's one way to do it nothing broken all right power looks nice you press this thing out just far enough so this bearing sticks out then you need to pull the bearing behind it there's a retainer you got to remove the retainer and then you can press it all the way out man this press is so bent oh it's not hard to pop out that's for sure I did buy new bearings by the way so now there should be a retaining clip with a lot of grease in here okay gotta press the rest of the way out still need to remove the bearing off here spacer and nothing's too tight and on here okay so this is the surface that the seal rides on and it actually looks very very good very smooth no burrs I was reading the manual and it says you can actually replace this internal part without replacing this brass outer part but the new seal is a complete unit with this brass thing so this actually looks a little bit different too it's got four tabs in rather than three still one more grease seal in there I forgot about kind of curious about why this old seal failed so I'm going to take it apart real quick and just check it out so this just okay so according to the manual this is a neoprene Bellow seal which is what it looks like it's old and cracked and dried out so that's I can see cracks well you probably can't see that but there's cracks all around this lip here this is a thrust washer it's made out of carbon and this actually looks fine this isn't cracked or anything this is the new one and it's like a completely different construction there's just like a spring with this outer thrust washer or whatever this is so hopefully this works okay okay I have the housing repainted here cleaned up ready to go I did some reading about this this water pump and I found out that this is actually an over pressure plug so when you grease it if you put too much grease in it blows out of here instead of blowing the seals out into the water jacket which is probably a good thing this is the seal and this is the impeller and basically this is like a graph I think this is a graphite or something like that that sits on here and that this spins on here and that seals it I'm going to clear out this over pressure plug real quick so a lot of really old grease in here looks like it still moves though it's got a spring on it probably should have done this before I painted it huh okay next up is this grease seal which has to go in this way which is challenging a fortunately I did find this which is just wide enough to capture it and not wide enough to hit where the bearing it's very tight so I actually the directions say you want to coat this with a suitable compound or lubricant to avoid shearing it and also provide sealant so I I would just use it I'm just going to use our TV obviously and then but I am going to take some fine sandpaper and kind of sand the inside of this Edge real quick just make sure there's no Burrs in it foreign got this lip on it so I don't know if that's just worn down because it does rotate on this carbon washer here so it's not hitting here but if I push I don't know five pounds of pressure dim pillar contacts next up is the shaft so I got new bearings foreign so I haven't packed these bearings you probably noticed and you're wondering I can just do that with the water pump itself with the grease fitting on there foreign you can see there that bearing should be right on that spacer yeah see there's some play in that spacer so it needs to get pushed on just a little bit more I think it should be pressed upright against that thing yeah it is foreign TV instead of cork so this is a tapered steel shaft with a brass nut finely threaded I have no idea what you'd want to torque something like this to this is way out of my wheelhouse I'll check the manual to see if there's a torque spec for this can't find a torque spec so right there unfortunately this is a metric but there's 0.4 millimeters of space between the impeller blades and this flange so I don't know what that means that seems nice and tight finally getting some decent weather again oh there they are got a little rusty I'll be fine okay so I filled this up with water and sure enough it leaked all the way through kind of what I was worried about so I took it back apart and actually what I found kind of surprised me so I took this seal apart there's just these four tabs here that I bent back and inside here I did not realize this but there is actually a Bellow seal in here I didn't think there was one it just has this uh brass insert with a spring so for you know I I thought it wasn't going to work because it wasn't didn't have this but it actually does have it and the thing that caused it to leak I think is I used RTV and the RTV actually traveled down this keyway or it maybe traveled on the inside of the impeller and it got onto the shaft and it kind of dumped it all up and even the spot where the impeller you can see right here has RTV on it and I think it just threw off the seal so I cut out a new washer out of gasket material this is not as thick as the original quart gasket I don't have the proper thickness cork I think it's 1 8. so what I'm going to do is I'm going to put Permatex 2 on one side and it goes like right in this indent then on this side I am going to use our TV just a little bit and that is to pick up the slack in the incorrect thickness of this gasket I cut out yeah once again bad idea to use a impact on this okay time to go test it again before I knock this back in so the way I'm testing is I'm just taking the cat block off plate and then filling it with water and making sure nothing comes out of this weep hole down here and it's back apart so uh what I did basically is I had it set up with water and it was dripping out just a tiny bit so I tightened up this nut and then it just started pouring out so then I thought I had cracked this but this is actually fine there's a little bit of a scuff right here I might try to maybe sand this but anyways that told me that the other thing I thought might be happening is this is not installed all the way perfectly straight so I took my death micrometer and I measured around it and I found that this part right here was sticking out so apparently I didn't get it all the way perfectly squared in there so I took it back to the press and I just gave it just a tickle and reseed it right here hopefully didn't blow out the RTV seal I have in there but then I measured around and I'm I'm within a maybe like two thou all the way around so it's pretty straight in there we'll give it another shot okay guys we've been sitting with water in here for about a half hour if you get a good angle here nope nope dry as a bone in the weep hole so I'm going to call this done kind of just button it up back up and then throw it back on actually I lied as soon as I turned off the camera I started spinning this impeller and yeah sure enough it started leaking again okay I also think I'm having a problem with this impeller not going down far enough since it is worn a little bit so what I'm going to do now is I'm going to heat it up to kind of widen it foreign so hot pretty good now there's like several threads showing you know right about 0.3 millimeters all right let's test this out I think I got it so wow what a journey I've been spinning it around nothing's coming out of the weep hole so basically the two tricks here is one make sure that brass case is perfectly flat with respect to this the water pump housing and two it really really helped to heat this thing up and then tap it on screw this bolt on hard I still have to take it back off and put the lock on I think I'm still going to go ahead and look for a new impeller I have a feeling I'm going to come back to this it's going to be dripping here and there so um if I could find a good quality impeller that has a lot of life left on it that would probably be good but for now we are going to call this good it's it's holding firm here we go now you better believe I'm going to uh retest this after I've done all this because all this banging and hitting on here hopefully I haven't damaged that carbon seal please work please please please let this sit for a few minutes and spin it around a few times we are good to go there's not a single drip coming out it's been about 20 minutes all right so I'm gonna go ahead and put this on I'm not gonna film myself doing it you saw me take it off it's the same exact thing the one thing I will mention is instead of using RTV on water pumps I always always use a good quality gasket and Permatex 2 on both sides I hate using our TV I only have to do I only do it if there's like pitting and you'll have these lips of our TV that like throw off how well the water pump works so okay everything's back on adjusted what a headache this thing was okay so on this fuel system this is a hard steel line and then over there is a hard steel line originally this is what was on there this is a copper line to join the two it kind of feeds through here and then pops up underneath the floor plate this this is an okay Condition it's got kind of a little bit of a kink there but that that's probably okay I really wanted to run a filter uh inline though and the reason there's a couple reasons one is I did put a coating inside this tank and sometimes the Coatings they just don't work for whatever reason and then they start sheeting off and then they they plug everything up so it'd be nice to catch that early the second reason is there there could be a bunch of dirt in here and the filters that go in there are there's four of them and they're like 35 40 each now they're they're quite expensive then I remembered I have a ton of stuff already left over from another from my 240Z running the fuel system that I have a ton of am fittings all the fittings I'll need actually this is high quality fuel hose and then I even have this is I think a perfect filter so this is a hundred micron filter if you go much more finer than that I think you're going to run into problems with the lift pump because this is basically gravity feed all the way down to the lift pump and uh so this is a you know really high flow filter you can take it apart and clean it out it just unscrews the only thing I'm kind of hesitant about is like running this this fuel line This braided line through there I mean on a dozer I don't know if sticks are going to get up there and Pierce it so it might just be a temporary thing if it is a problem I'll go back to the hard line but you know we're just kind of trying to filter out like the dead mice and the cigarette butts out of the fuel before it gets into those expensive filters all right these are all a and six lines by the way which actually pretty closely matches the original feel size or the fuel line tricky thing about these an fittings is the fittings themselves are so long you got to kind of account for that when you uh cut them that's going to be a short hose up there okay I got this cable made up so I'm just going to cut the long one down if you've never worked with this before it's it's a big pain it's actually really hard to mess it up where enough where it leaks but it's also really hard to make it look good I'll show you how I do I guarantee you it's not the best way but it works for me and it's repeatable so that's what I do foreign off the stragglers right now I like to re-wrap it this razor blade is not Sharp so I do it about a quarter inch away really clamp it on there with the tape and then the stainless will kind of extend past the pipe and that actually helps you get it started okay so the hard part is getting all the wire started in here without kinking back so you just got to take your time and work it in yeah this one's going easy maybe because I'm filming it and then this is actually reverse threaded so you want to go this way and it'll draw the wire in one little stick there we go and then once it started then you just cut the tape off thank you and then just keep turning it pushing and you want it you can look in there see here can I um you want the hose to come up as close as possible I mean the wire the the stainless is going to be pushing a little bit against it so it's not going to come all the way up but okay that's pretty good now if you want it to look nice you just tape this part so this is sliding inside of the rubber so you want to lubricate this a little bit just using WD-40 but whatever tighten down a reasonable amount oh we got scratches so right not a show car all right there you go like like I said there's there's way better ways to do this but I've I've done a lot of these and this is kind of how I can do it every time without any problems so this is what I do almost forgot this is like literally the most important part you got to clean these things out after you make them because when you cut in there all that that angle grinder is blowing like melted rubber in so I use a brake cleaner just to get any oil out and then I blow it out with air all right foreign my foot's going to be hitting against here so worst case is I have to buy a smaller filter so that's why this is a little bit longer so I don't know I feel like I'm not going to hit it with my foot but I might I guess we'll just kind of have to see how it works out I even have the proper wrench to use for this thing which it's kind of a first for the channel to have the right tool for the job nice all right hose is not touching right here so once I tighten this all down all right just got to pull this through enough so it doesn't rub while I tighten it okay everything's in tightened down there's a lot of room for movement here without it hitting anything so that's good same over here okay ready to dump some fuel in and prime it but before I do that I need to put some oil in the engine because I'm going to be spinning the engine over if I'm going to do that I might as well go ahead and do the transmission file drives and winch so this was the drain plug in the original engine that was torn up there's this is actually a magnet that's been like poultry stapled in and it has like a cat part number on it 8b6589 um anyways I think this was originally supposed to be a transmission drain plug because it sticks so far out so this is the oil pump off the old engine and the drain plug sits right here and you can actually see oh my gosh I'm spilling away all over the place you can actually see the mark where this was contacting it wasn't seating all the way so here I've modified the new drain plug with a magnet as I've done many times already on this channel but you can see here you got to be very careful about the depth of your magnet so obviously this is too high I tried three that was way too high two was even too high so I only could go one magnet deep and there goes that all right guys I'm not going to share what kind of oil I'm using or at least what brand and for some reason people get very emotional about oil choices so I'll just say this is a high quality diesel oil that's the proper weight for this engine if you're curious about what to use I would invite you to go to the Antique caterpillar website on the Forum you don't have to be a paying member you can search through there and there's guys there that have been operating these machines for longer than I've been alive that'll tell you what kinds of oil work best all right so four gallons is what this takes what are the chances I come out here tomorrow morning and there's like a 25 gallon oil slick all the way over my floor okay so the winch is obviously really important because pretty much all the gears in this thing spin anytime the clutch is engaged really there's only like three or four gears that don't spin if the winches and winch is in neutral so you want to have this thing filled up if you're going to do any running of the engine I read through the directions and it just basically says use the same viscosity as what's in the transmission okay last thing is the final drive so when you have the winch this is the final drive fill so everything I've read said to fill it to the bottom of here but the actual original final drive level is like down here which is probably about four inches lower I mean I mean I'm guessing it's not a big deal if it's higher but anyway I'm going to fill to the bottom of here it's officially fall the dog doesn't want to go outside anymore to be honest that sounds really bad let me see if I have a bigger battery dude that's a heavy huh that might work I should probably hook the oil pressure gauge up too while I'm thinking about it now this reminds me when I was doing this my water temperature gauge broke off on the old block so I'm gonna have to replace that okay I got the temperature gauge over there slightly bigger battery spin this over and see if we can get some we're neutral right yeah see if we get some oil pressure all right that's a great sign it's going down now I'm using on-road diesel here and you're probably laughing at me because I'm paying Road tax but what you might not realize is if you pay Road tax on this that means you can legally drive this on the road so so my fittings down here aren't leaking which is good news because I have recently plumbed up a bunch of my house and I'd like to think I know what I'm doing on that front first it's 90 degrees we got our first leak okay that one's tightened down I don't think there's any leaks on this first block of all these fittings and hoses which it's impressive okay we're no leaks that's great now I know there's some of you that were screaming at me through through your phone or your TV or whatever and I actually heard you I forgot to put oil in the injection housing sir so this is why it's nice to have YouTube viewers because if you screw something up this badly they'll yell at you through time and space and you'll hear it okay so I think we're ready to bleed the fuel system now if you look at the height of that tank basically gravity is going to get your right to here in the fuel Tower and then up to here which it comes up and then it comes down into the fuel injection pump that's all on you they have a nice procedure in the manual here they even have it a procedure for direct electric start which is interesting but uh there's basically there's event here and here and then you got these four vents for all the injection pumps and then you also have to probably vent these out too eventually fortunately Cat made a tool that makes this way easier so let me go grab it real quick so you probably already know this but when you're pressure testing a tank like this you only want to use like two or three PSI if you do the math on the amount of exposed surface area that's like a ton of force and this Tank's pretty thick but on a smaller tank you could blow it up pretty easily a little bit of pressure in there I verified it's still not leaking even under a couple PSI so let's crack this and see if any gas comes out oh yeah you hear that you could of course do this with a starter but it's nice to just go slow at your own pace and it saves on cranking on the you know the battery and the starter and all that this does keep building pressure so I'll just leave it open I think we'll call that good I gotta do this one actually says I have fuel pressure right there if any pressure is built up in here oh yeah it's leaking out already where is it coming from oh it's coming from I think this bypass tube yeah it's coming out of that tube right there okay next step for the hard part is these all need to be opened cracked open it's really hard to get a wrench in here like a quarter inch box wrench I already kind of got I had to clean the paint off or else it wouldn't fit but hardest part is just getting over this paint I guess the diesel comes out the back oh yeah there's a lot of air in this one you can feel it with your finger this one's leaking out at the top so I don't know if the injectors in the open position and it's just leaking this isn't Seated on here right it's significantly lower than the other ones too foreign okay it occurs to me now the issue is that this I noticed that was sitting way lower while it's missing this ring that goes around it that helps seed it so that's that's what I'm missing I grabbed one off of the other one we'll see if that seals up it's kind of a not the best fit all right that worked no leaks I've already cracked these open when I was diagnosing it these are all bled out so everything should be bled now so let me put some put some RTV on it foreign this is left over from a car project it's like a Moroso three inch racing Muffler but it it fits perfectly so the hood line is going to run right here so this looks kind of weird this transition but the Hood's gonna actually cover all this and you're just going to see this so I think that's actually looking to look pretty good is this primed I mean foreign in it last night so I'm gonna just fill it with water I'll drain it back out once I'm sure there's no leaks and put some anti-freeze in I'm not really going to run this for super long I'm not going to drive it today it's just there's a huge rainstorm coming today so I wanted to do this before it hits but really I need to do I'm worried about this this front PTO just is spinning in here it's gonna it's gonna cause problems if I run this too long so I'm just going to run it for a little bit make sure there's no major leaks and hopefully it starts I guess why I'm waiting one other thing I meant forgot to mention on these armrests it's like a Wood joint a 90 degree joint I don't know what kind of joint you use so I just kind of sandwiched in some angle iron in here okay as far as the checklist here so electrics check and this is just kind of temporary I'm going to redo all this later no fuel leaks fuel systems have bled up to the valves I still haven't put any fluids I should probably put some oil in there for the clutch the clutch is engaged right now but it's not in gear and I have oil pressure but I do not have coolant temperature sensor hooked up I can check it with this though winch is disengaged you can check this out I did see this this morning it looks like we might have a leak in one of the finals and I believe that was that's diesel right there I spilled that and I already know there's a there's a small leak you can even see it right under here I just need to replace the fittings no leaks from the water pump thank goodness just watch that uh impeller shatter though all right just one more thing on Direct starting this if you actually look at the d315 operator's manual not the not the tractor operators manual but the engine operator manual it says for direct start it actually has a lot about direct starting there but it says at 50 degrees and above ambient you do not need you shouldn't need any starting AIDS unfortunately it's we're at 46 right now so we're probably going to need something to get us going so I'm going to spin it over then I'm going to engage the compression yeah I think it's a little cold foreign still not leaking I'm like so paranoid about that I'm gonna let the electrics cool off for just a sec here they're uh the connections are all horrible so that's part of my problem but I think it's good enough to get us going these electrics are shot they're not even they're not even working anymore so I gotta fix this real quick thank you and this rain is Pleasant yeah not the best all right back in business here we go occurs to me now that the throttle's off whoopsies the throttle was off that uh whoops so I gave her about half throttle there and I'm just charging the battery up a tiny bit foreign foreign that exhaust is actually pretty quiet pretty nice foreign that's all the way back so that's it's idling all the way down this is awesome it runs nicely look at that all right guys that Fan's really loose I can hear it I can even smell it so I'm gonna pull this thing back in and then actually maybe I'll see if I can restart it yeah this this leaking by the way is just the Overflow it's just burping up air um yeah oh geez this poor fan so yeah I can this is all fan blade I think our mat might be set coolant water pump's not leaking that's like the thing I'm most worried about no no oil leaks okay fan blade retightened we are good to go there so let's see how easy it starts up now that it's somewhat warm should have been charging the battery during this thank you it's such a shame I can't drive it right now but there's just a couple more things to do but I did verify about both steering uh the brakes and the steering clutches both work so that's good and we know the transmission works so I think and that poor fan belt it's loose oh yeah it's loose again is it coming loose it is this is coming loose I need to tighten that part down I don't see any uh I don't see any fogginess that's a really good sign we might be good there it started raining and I was like oh man this is going to be a nightmare but that was actually really easy okay uh before I go I want to talk about starting so obviously I had to use a tiny bit of ether to get it going the goal here is to not have to use ether with a direct start so um the current plan right now is I got a grid heater off of a 12 valve Cummins and I'm going to try to modify it on this intake so basically what you do is you cycle it on for about five or ten seconds before trying to start it and then you run the starter hot intake we'll see how that goes there's a couple other ideas I have but that's going to be the first one to try all right well that's it for this video so there's obviously a lot of things to be doing here electrical got to get the hydraulic pump on fix this fan issue but man that was really easy I'm almost I'm a little upset that I forgot the throttle to give it a throttle before I tried starting it because that wore my battery down and I have no way of knowing how you know how easy it would start if it would start right up with just maybe a tiny little tickle of ether or not but for the most part that was a huge success the engine is is running really really really nice all right guys so I'm going to give you one extra bonus cold start on this thing because I I'm not going to be able to go to bed tonight until I know how it behaves with a fresh battery an idiot has not left the throttle off this time I did tighten the fan belt well hopefully that holds I also I have as a proof of concept I have the grid heater up here and it's wired into this spare battery I wouldn't actually have a second battery but okay let's give this a shot here so first turn the grid heater on for about 10 seconds let it get hot foreign oh well we're gonna have to cancel that second start um just everything this wiring is just too bad I was hoping I mean it's horrible I was hoping to just kind of limp along get it started running but it's just I mean these cables are one gauge it's it's way too small for this the size of this battery and how much current this thing takes and then all these connections are just really really dirty I think I lost the connection from here to the starter motor I was like turning it and I heard a weird noise um so you see that it's it's not even like clicking on anymore so something really bad is wrong with the starter I'm going to take that apart and clean it probably clean it up it so we're going to end the video there I mean kind of a downer to end the video on but we did have a lot of progress um I mean we know a lot of stuff works right the engine works really well the transmission works the clutch works both steering clutches the brakes work pretty much everything works no big leaks uh nothing wrong with the coolant I I it is it is a big I mean I should feel better about this it just really bugs me that I screwed up with that throttle and I didn't get a good feeling of how this thing's going to act but I have a feeling once I clean up this wiring just the starting wiring it's gonna it's gonna be so much nicer so anyways guys as always thank you so much for watching this if you made it this far I really appreciate it and I will be back soon

Channel: Pacific Northwest Hillbilly

Views: 266,919

Keywords: bulldozer, caterpillar, d4, old iron, recovery, heavy equipment, tractor, d4-7u, diesel, restore, diy, D315, swap, restoration, dozer, d6, d8

Id: h0NKA1HuPZQ

Length: 48min 45sec (2925 seconds)

Published: Sat Nov 05 2022