[580] PacLock Block-Lock Prototype - Review, Pick, and Melt

this is the lock-picking lawyer and what i have for you today is an early prototype of the pack lock lock lock the reason I have this prototype is that pack locks and a few of these out to members of the lock sport community seeking feedback on their new design they were nice enough to send one to me with my logo engraved in it and it just happens to be in my favorite color dye cam blue so let's take a closer look at this lock at first blush it appears to be a relatively standard shutter or sliding bolt style padlock but there are a few unique things about it the first is the lock body material I've seen a whole bunch of shutter style padlocks made out of steel a whole bunch made out of brass even quite a few made out of cast zinc but I've seen a very few made out of aluminum in fact the only one that comes to mind offhand is the tight Allium variant of the abus 82 another interesting thing about this lock is the fact that it appears to share the same core shackle assembly that you would normally find in a standard hidden shackle padlock like this it appears that pack lock realized that they could take something right out of their parts bin and significantly decrease the time and expense of developing a shutter style padlock frankly once I realized what they did it made me sit back and wonder why no one else did it before because it's a really obvious concept and seems to work pretty well another interesting thing about this lock are the mounting holes you can see one in each corner and that's on both sides of this lock and it allows you to mount this directly to a door or doorframe this does two things first it ensures that you never lose the lock and the other is that it turns this into a lock that can have one-handed operation now this is not the most recent version of the pack lock block lock they have at least one new prototype of the lock and it was made after bosnian bill made a video with a few suggestions so let me tell you what changes have made since I got this lock the first was to move the shackle out a little bit if you look closely at this lock you can see that there really isn't a whole lot of room between the shackle and the lock body only about eight millimeters here and I think that does limit the usage of this lock what pack lock did is move the shackle out quite a bit and I believe on the newer version there's about 22 millimeters behind the shackle so that's a very good change the next change they made was to reinforce the lock body right along this part right here this is because bosnian bill was concerned that someone could cut through this portion of the lock relatively easily and if you he demonstrated that quite aptly by cutting through this with a hacksaw in less than 40 seconds pack lock responded by drilling a hole right about here all the way down the lock body and inserting a thick steel rod that of course would make cutting this lock considerably harder okay so now let's talk about some changes that we could make to this lock now one of the first things I thought to do I realized upon reflection probably wasn't practical but in case you're thinking the exact same thing I'm going to explain to you what that thought was and why I think it probably doesn't work if you look at this lock you can see we have a relatively narrow mouth to it only about 15 millimetres and a large usage of shutter style padlocks is to secure chains and to do that unless you have one in which the links fit through each other you need to put two links of the chain into the lock with a 15 millimeter opening you would be limited to a relatively small chain only about seven millimeters so my idea was to make the mouth a little bit wider unfortunately what I think that would mean is that you could no longer share the core shackle assembly with the off-the-shelf buck lock and which would kind of defeat the purpose of this lock so I think it would be nice to have a slightly wider opening I also think it probably would not be practical another potential change would be to make the mounting system a little bit more robust if we look at these holes you can see they're relatively small and there's a couple different ways that we could mount this lock and in some of them those holes and the screws that would be put into them would be load-bearing and would affect security so I'd like to see them a little bit beefier now one way to mount this lock would be right on the door and you would have a hasp that would come through the door like this and then lock up now if that's the way you mounted the lock then those screws really don't affect security they don't bear any load if however you were to mount this on a doorframe and have a hasp that comes into it like that then all of a sudden those screws are load-bearing and do affect security and I'm a little bit concerned that they wouldn't be able to withstand a leveraged attack so there's a couple different ways to address that one would be to enlarge those holes considerably so you could use much beefier screws more thread material and make it a little bit stronger another idea I'm not sure would be practical but that would be to put some through holes in here that would accept domed head bolts similar to what you would see on the hasps for pakka locks again not sure if that is a practical thing to do but it would increase the mounting options for this lock now the next isn't necessarily a commentary on this lock design I think it's probably pretty good the way it is but I couldn't help but to notice looking at pack locks website that almost every single lock they sell is available in both steel and aluminum and I think this lock would be pretty impressive if indeed they were able to make a steel variant of it if they were able to do that then all of a sudden you would stop competing with locks like this abus 83 and start competing with much much beefier and more offensive locks like this V ro Thor so it's something I would love to see and if indeed they are able to make steel lock body variants of this we probably also would want to see some steel anti drill pins in here because that then would probably become the weak link in this lock okay that's all I have on the on this lock frankly I think Pak Locke did a really nice job designing it particularly with the new features I think the movement of the shackle was an excellent suggestion by Bill and a good change by Pak lock and the reinforcement of the lock body is I think a a class beating feature and when I say the class of this lock I mean a non steel lock body shutter lock with a a corrosion resistant but soft lock body material something like this 8 abus 82 I've seen a whole lot of locks like this including the American lock C 70 the Y model y 114 I'm sorry the Yale model Y 114 the cast model 170 and not a single one of them have any sort of reinforcement in this area of the lock that can be pretty easily cut so that's definitely an industry or class leading feature so we're gonna do a few fun things with this now first we are going to pick it open and of course I'll take it apart and show you what's inside however the other way we're gonna open this I think is going to be a lot of fun I got an email from Greg hua the president of pack lock and he was paying very careful attention to the comments on Bosnian Bill's videos and a few commenters were concerned that the aluminum lock body could be melted easily now aluminum does have a relatively low melting temperature although it is at least a couple hundred degrees hotter than something like zinc but Greg asked me if I had any experience with melting aluminum lock bodies because apparently I'm the guy to go to when you deal with really strange and impractical ways to open locks and it just so happens that this American 1100 lock was one the I put a plumbing torch to for about two and a half minutes and this was the result so clearly you can get into aluminum padlocks using a normal non oxygen torch so that's what we're gonna do to this one we're gonna see if we can get into it quickly in some sort of practical way using a normal plumbing torch and I think probably the best place to apply the heat would be right here to this portion of the lock that's where these two pins are held in and if you don't know how a lock like this works the rotating portion of the shackle engages with those two pins so those pins are what holds this shackle closed if I could melt just a little bit of aluminum right underneath them we could pull this shackle open so after we pick and gut this we'll take this to the garage and we'll try that out but first let's get to picking now something people should probably realize if they're into lock sport is that you can't damage the outside of locks by picking and what I often do is put a little tension wrench right in the bottom to give me something to leaver my pick off of otherwise what you'll do is cut a pretty deep groove into your padlock so I'm gonna use top of the key way tension here with a 40,000 spry bar and this standard hook in eighteen thousand little click out of one two's loose three is loose four is loose click out of five might have more out of him leather click out of five six is binding back to the beginning little click out of one dropped into a false set click out a two I think we have more there another click out of two that might be it I've been on three fours binding a couple clicks there he feels set nothing on five nothing on six back to the beginning little click at a one nothing on - okay I think we're getting something on three a little bit of counter rotation okay got three set four five six this guy's putting up some fight okay - I must have dropped him when I was setting three okay I think we got two three okay that's it back to the beginning nothing on one maybe we need more out of - nope three this guy is definitely putting up a fight let me release a little bit of tension one okay - we dropped into our false set again three four five six one right in the beginning they can be a little bit tricky if there's there's a spool there - a couple clicks at it - and we opened it up okay quite a bit of fight out of this lock let's take it apart and see what's inside we can remove the core by taking a small allen screw out here in case you're wondering that does not actually affect security all that does is hold this mechanism in when it's in the unlocked position let's relock this and it looks like we have a spring pin holding the shackle to this so you get a little piece of drill rod here I guess I'm too lazy to go to my garage and get my roll pin punches but that should probably do the trick oh not quite he's being a little bit shy there we go okay and okay we have one more screw up here on the top that we'll need to take out just try this Oh perfect okay now there is a track in this core that limits you to about 90 degrees of rotation if I were to pull this out anywhere between I'll say one and three o'clock your pins would fall into that track and you would seize up the core I think we'll be okay however if we turn it to about 11 o'clock so let's do that get a follower perfect okay let's dump these pins out see what we got number one keep in is standard so is two three four five and six nothing particularly unusual about this core so range these key pins and then we'll pull the driver pins out expecting to see lots of security pins there okay number one is a spool two is serrated three is a spool four is serrated or I'm sorry four is a spool also five is a spool and six is standard actually a a long standard pin let's drop these Springs out see if there's anything unusual there nope they all appear to be the same okay let me give you a close-up of all of these pins and then I'll put everything together we'll go out to the garage and see if we can melt this open okay on the key pins you can see they are all standard on the driver pins you can see we have four spools in slots one three four and five and a serrated pin in slot two moving over to slot six we have a standard pin but you can see it's considerably longer than all of the other driver pins and I suspect the reason for that is that it's meant as an anti bump measure I'm not sure if that's right maybe pack lock can can chime in on that but what that will do is give you a lot more force down on that one pin stack and probably would be an effective anti bump measure okay that's it on this portion of the video I'm going to cut it put everything together and I'll see you out in the garage okay that did not go according to plan for a couple of reasons first unfortunately as I was shooting the video of torching this lock the microphone cable was partially unplugged which means the video has no sound I will show you that silent video in just a moment but because all my commentary got lost I wanted to briefly talk about what happened first now if you're wondering why we have a brown lock when we started off with a blue one it's because the heat of the attack either burn away or significantly scorched the dyes that were used in the anodizing process now I held it torch to this portion of the lock for a little bit over seven minutes which is a really long time and we never reach the point at which the aluminum liquefied and flowed as was the case with this American 1100 and I'm not entirely sure why that maybe though I do have a couple of theories the first may be that this is an aluminium alloy with a higher melting temperature but I think the more likely explanation is that the increased mass and surface area of this lock simply absorbed and dissipated the heat a lot better and the reason I think that might be the case has to do with the colors of this lock post attack if we look up here you can see it is almost white all of the dyes were almost completely burned away and if you follow it down further away from the torch you can see that it becomes darker and darker now let's compare that to this American 1100 which started out its life as a brown anodized lock and in my melt attack you can see all of the anodizing dies completely burned away almost like we have right on the tip of this lock that indicates to me that this lock got to a higher temperature than this one and given that I was using the exact same torch and the same bottle of gas I think the best explanation for why that might be is that the increased masked absorbed and dissipated the heat now once I realized that we weren't going to melt this open what I did was take a pair of pliers and take advantage of the fact that the heat significantly softened the aluminum to bend this portion of the lock back and I was able to get it open but I think as you watch the video you'll probably come to the same conclusion that I did and that is this is far from being a practical attack particularly on the street where you're not where you don't have the lock in a vise so pack lock I think you have a winner here particularly with the changes that you made after bosnia and Bill's video and this isn't a lot that I would not hesitate to use and if you do ever make a steel version of it you definitely would have a customer in may so we are going to play the silent video of the melt attack now but if you do have any questions or comments please put them below if you like this video and would like to see more like it please subscribe and as always have a nice day thank you you

Channel: LockPickingLawyer

Views: 2,258,203

Rating: 4.880908 out of 5

Keywords:

Id: u3q-iFUnQwA

Length: 26min 58sec (1618 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 14 2017

Reddit Comments

[u/LockLover]

Is this the same lock Bill recieved that wasnt anodized yet? Version 2 or something?

[u/jeffmoss262]

I ordered one this week!