5.0L Mustang Intake Manifold Part 1

[Music] I've got another intake manifold job to do for my buddy Phil over at mayhem Motorsports he's the one that I've machined the last manifold for and this is another manifold that's going to a different car that he's been working on I believe he said it's off of a Mustang I believe this goes to the you know 5.0 Mustang and the problem is he can't get anything to seal up and apparently this is an aftermarket intake that was on the car and and he can't get this stuff to seal right the main culprit is this surface right here which is where the thermostat goes in I'll get you a better shot and show you but I can put just my scale on there and see that this area right in here is way low so I mean that's probably going to be 2530 thousands off right here so this needs to be machined square it off and I've been checking all the other surfaces this surface here I've got my this is my good stare straight edge that has been reground and I can put this across there and I can actually rock it slightly so it's off a little bit well bit high in the middle so this needs to be cut right there and then he said he also had another issue with I don't remember what side but one of the cylinder heads was had a very minor leak to it and he couldn't get it to seal off so I checked these faces here that go against the cylinder head and they're not perfect either so we're gonna plan on cutting all these faces there we're gonna cut both sides that match up to the heads and make sure that they're good and straight and we're also going to machine the top and in this face right there for the thermostat so the bottom of this thing was machined originally from the factory so we've got a machine face right there as well as this this should be nice and square so we'll probably start with this face right here and flip it upside down or not upside down but just flip it on like that's in peril and what we can do is machine this face will side mill that with an end mill and we'll go ahead and run our cutter across this face right there and get that cut and then my plans from there is I'm going to take a piece of flat bar and we're going to have a we're just gonna make a fixture plate that's going to bolt to this right there and we'll use six of these holes bolt a fixture plate down and that way we can flip it over onto the fixture plate and be able to hold it and we're gonna go to the shaper and then we'll use our shaper to be able to rotate the table around and get this squared up we'll cut both of these sides on the shaper that's my plan of attack this is the piece that goes with it right there and I've been doing some check in with the straightedge on these faces he just wanted me to check it he didn't think that there was anything wrong with them but I'll check it before we get through to make sure that these are good but if these don't need to be cut then we won't worry about that but he just wanted me to double-check it why why everything was apart so let's go ahead we'll start with the K and T mill and get our fixture plate going and then we'll start getting all this mill then [Music] this is the plate that we're going to use to make the fixture to hold this this will also you know be sort of like a universal fixture for later jobs we'll save it in case we ever need to use it again so it's a piece of one inch by five inch flat bar it's been rusted up outside so I just went out there and wire brushed it good but it was rusted all over it so I'm gonna clean it up I'm gonna use the shaper we've got it cut 19 inches long and we're just going to square it up make it nice and clean on the edges another great use of the shaper is to cut rusty metal like this and the plan is to machine it I'll have a couple holes drilled in so that we can just use the center of T slide at the table on the shape or just just hold this plate down but it'll also be drilled and tapped I'm sorry I drilled and counterbored for this hole pattern up there six of the holes so that I can just bolt it to the top just like that using our socket head bolts and then this is what we'll clamp down onto the table would be flipped upside down so we'll give you some highlights along the way of getting this thing cut in and get it machined we'll get both to the sides cleaned up first just make one pass across loads of the sides through the top and bottom that's just a ten thousands cut just to clean the cleanest surface up [Music] this is looking good I touched up the tool bit before I started I read around it and it hung the corner and leave it a nice shearing action on the metal I just hit that with my stone did we bird any buzz on there we're ready to flip it over and cut the other side [Music] this is the cutting fluid I'm using here a mystic metal mover this given this was given to me by one of my viewers a few years ago and I use it every now and I wanted to try it on the shaper and see how it does it's got a little less smoking accent in my a sulfur-based oil seems to be doing good [Music] got our first topside getting cut in won't take very long and we'll have that sucker done I thought I would go ahead and touch on the one of the issues always Wyatt Wyatt Schaefer so let's go ahead and talk about just this work piece right here this is a rusty piece of steel and this safer does a great job on putting in rusty pity dirty material using that high-speed tool that I can grind versus a carbide a rotating cutter or even a shell mill or an end mill or a fly cutter I don't really like using fly cutters unless I really need to but does a good job on that kind of all that kind of job right there the other thing we've got age the the vise right here 16 inches long so you got a lot bigger advice than our standard milling vise over on the milling machine table now workpiece is 19 inches long you see I'm just hanging it off a little bit on that side so you got a lot of rigidity hold in that piece and just look at it it's doing a great job once I clean that clean that'll and rust off and it's gonna be a beautiful finish on there so like I said you see how wide the vise is so you got a lot more support holding the workpiece even if I'm using my 8-inch milling vise here you've got 8 inches tall with and you've got a lot more material hanging off the end out there and not to say that that wouldn't work over here but you really want to support more of your workpiece if you can so you could put some jacks under it or whatever to try to stabilize it so if this machine if this vise was not set up on this machine I probably will always go over to that shaper and use that machine if it's available if that vise is set up a lot of times it determines on which one set up that if the shaper is ready to roll and I'm just ready to start cutting I'm gonna go over there and do that if the shaper is not set up and I got to mount the vise on it through the table up but this vise is ready to go then I'll probably come over here and do it here instead just because I've got less set up to do so that's one of the factors there as well is which machine is ready to go you know you got to got a saw a face mill in there and get that set and the other thing is this makes when you use a big face mill over here if you're going to do some milling it swings these chips everywhere so you've got a big cleanup to do once you a little bit of millon over there look at the cleanup I got to do here it just puts it right in this box here very little gets on the floor on the machine so a lot easier cleanup over here because you have better chip control of the chips coming off into the box we're finished up cutting the fixture plate there on the shaper it turned out real nice we've got a D bird and clean you see it just does a good job and this thing that's a rough cut right there so if we wanted to finish that we can certainly make an a lot nicer finish but I like the way that feels it's got the cut lines in it and I rub the stone over it there to make sure that it's all smoothed off and good so the plan is is to drill it counter bore it for six holes you got the two in the center and then we got the twos only eats in right there these are 5/16 verify it with a 5/16 bolt I'll need to run down to my local hardware store and get me some socket songket head bolts proper length because I don't have any all I've got as these guys so we'll probably go ahead and set this in the mill go ahead and get these two first since these are going to be in the middle we'll go ahead and just Center up in the mill drill count aboard of those two and then we'll get it bolted on there I'm gonna use my transfer punches we'll put our little transfer screws here bolt it down with this that way it's kind of square and then we'll tap it and that'll locate the placement of the other four holes there I went ahead and got a head start on the fixture plate here we went ahead and got two of the holes drilled in there and that's going to be for these two Center holes right here and the reason for that is I wanted to just kind of try to since these look like they're kind of symmetrical with the shape of the part we want to go ahead and get this bolted down and we're going to transfer the end bolt locations to the plate and I just wanted to make sure it was kind of square in line with it there so I'm gonna end up using what we're going to use are these Hyneman transfer screws and we'll put these in these four outer holes we'll bolt the plate down I'll bolt the plate down like that with our Hyneman transfer of screw points just barely sticking up out of the holes and then we'll take our hammer we'll take our soft blow and just tap each in to transfer the hole location and then we'll go back to the mill and a drill encounter board of those four we're gonna be using these 5/16 socket head screws right here to hold it down in place this is the little set of transfer screws that we're going to use made behind Minh I've got a different set different range of these see this is 5/16 18 so you just unscrew the cap there and inside of it you'll have your transfer screw so I'm going to take four of them out of the set right there he's off out of the way and then put our cap back on and then the end of the tool right there is the install tool so you just take here and you see we've got our point on the end of them go ahead and insert it into the install tool there there in the case it's a multi-purpose tool and we'll go ahead and just get them screwed into the hole here you get these two and then we'll set our height of the point and usually what I do is just I'll just take the scale there lay it up against the face and screw it in to where it just goes packs that goes over the hex but the point of the screw is sticking up it doesn't take a lot it's just touching it that there so that's it right there just a point is sticking up all right and we'll do the same thing over here there we go just that's the point of it all right yeah we'll do that on the other in there as well okay I think we got all four of them ready to go go ahead and take our fixture plate here and set it on there nice and easy so we're not making a bunch of scratch and dents there where the transfer screws are get our bolts in there one started and we'll start the other all right we gotta both Snug down so so I can tell it sitting up on the points yep trying to pull it down so we'll go ahead and give her a tap with our hammer now I'm just gonna look down here and see I'm just gonna look down here and see what's at the other side and do the same thing all right let's see how our transfer points look on it I'll get my marker yep four four good locations there I like to just take and highlight the areas that I'm going to be lining it up on and put a circle on it just so that you can see it and let's go ahead and just tell you what since we put it like this put a mark here on the side put a mark here on this corner and I'll know that those two marks that's where it lines up that just to kind of time it there okay we are ready to go back to the mill and do our drill in there so I'll have to since we did it this way what I'll have to do is drill the holes and then we'll have to flip it over line up a hole with our drill and then counter board for the socket head bolt I'll get the punch marks lined up real quickly using my Center right there just visually running the point down in there very softly and then so we'll come back with my coaxial indicator and actually indicate the punch mark there we've got our blade coax in there this is what I'll use to very quickly just line up the the four holes I'm just going to show you one right here and we'll get it done let's go side to side and just make the movements that we need that up it's walking around and this this particular punch mark for whatever reason that that two shattered whenever I tapped on it and so it doesn't have a really true point down in that one there so we're just gonna we're really close enough to what we need to be it doesn't have to be any closer than that and so we're just gonna leave it right about there but I'll show you another one so that you can get a little better idea of this what's going on with this year start with a center drill and go ahead drill the center point there so that we know our grille bits gonna drak correctly [Music] here's the next hall maybe you can see this one a little bit better since it won't jump around like the first hole moving the y-axis on the mill now plenty good enough right there all right we got all over a holes drilled so I've got the piece flip back over and we're gonna use our blade here to line up on our on our holes so what I would go ahead and show you this again and keep in mind that's just a drill hole so it's not really smooth so it'll jump around a little on that rough rough drill hole there just moving both the X and y-axis here to get it lined up we'll get it within one or two thousandths and then we'll leave it alone so that looks like it's a pretty darn close right about there we'll go ahead and just leave it leave it there and then we're gonna use our counter board to let me let me find that there's our counter board tool that we're going to use it's already got the pilot ground into it chuck that up and go I'm gonna go 3/8 deep with these holes here take my counter bore tool and just very gently touch the surface there I'm going to zero out my quill dro here here's the quill just coming here and zero that out and then we'll move it down three-eighths of an inch I run these guys kind of slow this is not the kind of tool that you want to replace a lot that's a good job just keep it well-oiled just watching the quill we're gonna sneak up on 375 and there it is all right and finish it off we'll just break that is with this chamfer tool make it look nice and there we go so we got three more to do on get those other three done and then we'll bring it back and we'll test fit it over on the manifold all right guys we got it all drilled in counterbored only thing left to do really is to do I got to drill my two holes for the studs to hold it down I was gonna do that after we get through this but that's real simple so let's go ahead and test fit it got my red mark here red mark over here making sure there's no chips or dust on it eyeball it there just with that plate right there I can tell that that surface is not flat I can I can make it rock a little bit but we're gonna deck that first before we bolt it on there so I've got I've actually got four I've got four screws the correct length here and then I've got two that I'm gonna have to cut them they're a little bit long but let's go ahead and check and make sure our whole pattern is gonna work all right so far so good that one's going in that one's going in we've got two more let's see how it does good that one's screwing and that one screw in there so these are the two all hot - yeah so I got to cut a little bit off those I'll just take a side cutter on the ground here and lop those off and then that'll be ready to go so what we're gonna do is let me since I've got it just kind of we're just kind of sitting in place I want to get a measurement on the plate here I want to get a measurement here this is where we're gonna have a hole drilled and then so our stud and our flange nut will bolt down right here so it looks like we've got approximately it's just eight three inches right there so I'll probably come in I'll take the flange let me let me grab one probably go ahead use my 5/8 hardware so we're gonna take this nice flange not one on each side and just have it drilled so that we can put our stud and a flange down on each in there so it's just a 1 inch from the end looks pretty good looks like it's right about in the center of that flange nut there let me double check the other side this one's a little bit shorter over here so we got about two inches so one answer should suffice there as well we'll go about one-inch to the center and that will give us some good coverage so that's our next plan of attack go ahead and get these two holes drilled this is the setup that we'll use here you put our T nut in the slot shortest 5/8 stud I got right there and in a flange nut to hold it in place so it's gonna be like that or actually more like that right there well drill the in holes 41 64 so that's clearance over a 5/8 and I've already I've already found the center and I'm just going to use my hook scale here to just quickly scale it one inch from the end hook the end line up the point on the rule there and just visually line it up on the one inch mark just like that but at 210 on the spindle here for the 4160 forks and don't forget to break the edges get rid of the burr it's like that all right and of course I'll flip over the other side deburr it so one more hole to drill and we'll be done with our fixture plate [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: Abom79

Views: 183,447

Rating: 4.9316611 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, fixture, fixture plate, transfer screws, intake manifold, mustang, mustang intake, mustang intake manifold, trick flow intake, 5.0L intake manifold, machine shop, manual machining, automotive machining, heimann transfer screws, transfer punch, milling machine, counter bore tool, shaper, metal shaper, ge shaper, gould & eberhardt

Id: sVBoxqVpfOM

Length: 26min 14sec (1574 seconds)

Published: Wed Apr 29 2020