Machining Cable Sheaves Part 1

[Music] hey guys welcome back to the shop so we've got a good old-fashioned job to get done right here some some typical job shot type items that we got to build so I've got two of these cable shifts that I've got a Meg this is the drawing and I made up when he come in he he asked if I could just take the drawings of the dimensions so that he could install it and keep using this this goes on the end of like a boom on a truck and it's used for picking up septic tanks and they lower the septic tanks down in the hole that's what he does he install septic tanks so he wants me to build two of these cable shifts for him and he asked me could I make them could I make them harder than what is on there now you know apparently it's some soft steel probably cold-rolled or maybe even cast iron I don't really know so I've got this five-inch 4140 right here we're gonna make two out of this and we're gonna I'm going to rough the machine them and then we're gonna heat treat them and then once we heat treat them I'll go back to the lathe and finish the OD and the ID we got it's got a board for a bearing and I'll leave the the groove it's a quarter inch radius half inch deep I'll leave that just a bit shy just enough where we can just touch it and clean it up run through and then we'll we'll chuck it up on the OD and then we'll finish the bearing board there as well all right that's my plan anyway the heat training is still new to me I'm still learning we're actually working on the first part now in the oven so these will be the second to go in that that I'm learning how to heat treat this 4140 so I'm hoping that I can get it a little bit harder than than what it is right now once we get them cut out I'll go over to the Rockwell hardness tester and we'll see what it is now and then you know of course check it after we get down heat treat so I I do plan on using this piece right here and machine machining this into a mandrel or a fixture that I can use to hold these to cut the OD and the groove true okay I'll have a turn threaded for this nut to go down and capture it and that's my plan so let's go ahead and get started on it there's our two slabs of 4140 I was going to point this out and see this is the end that was already cut by the person that I had to purchase this material from and it was a very crooked cut on this so this piece right there when we go in there we'll put it up on my cut side you're gonna see a lot of wobbling here on this on this face but just wanted to point that out the one that I cut right here I mean cut on both sides it's actually nice and square and I wasn't sure how square it was going to cut so I gave myself plenty of metal there too to face it all so this one's looking real good and this one's kind of wobble quite a bit while we get faced out [Applause] first side cleaned up so we're going to flip it around it's looking good go ahead and flip it around and do the same thing we're going to face it and then after we face it we're going to go ahead and drill it and bore it to our two inch I just went ahead and did a test on this piece right here that I was just facing let's do it again cuz when I first did it it was at 24 and then when I brought the camera over here is it 25 let's go ahead and just do it one more time I was real curious as to where this thing is gonna land at on hardness so let's find out it looks like it's gonna be mid 20s though so my hopes is that we can do a heat treat on it and get it somewhere you know upper 40s low 50s maybe and if we do it's gonna be this is sort of like a trial and error thing he's gonna run two of these and see if it does him any any good to have a harder ship than what he's been running all right so it looks like our wait is it's like it's pretty well settled out all right so I got a 21 and a half that time so you know mid 20s is what we're looking at all right we're on to our second dist here I had to slow that down because I was running too much surface speed it dulled the insert [Music] [Music] all right gonna get a hole down through these things this one's for all my non-smokers [Applause] all right we got 53 thousands that I want to take out of it I'm going to finish it at 2 inches mm all right we moved on to our fixture here we're gonna go ahead and get this turned down to two inches we'll turn it and thread it it'll look just like this except only two inch there so let's try some heavy cuts I got it dialed in a quarter-inch depth of cut and we've got it set on 15th ow let's see how that does alright we've got one more rough cut here to make should be a little bit of about quarter inch over yeah so 239 there so I'll just take 200 and I'll swap out my tool to finish it out hey hit the trash can I'm gonna work on getting that down to exactly two inches and we'll get it undercut in there and then I'll bring you back whenever we go do our threading [Music] we're ready to cut our threads here so what we're machining is a two inch 12 pitch this is a two inch 12 not there I verify that it's real easy to check it with some internal spring calipers like that you get a good field and measure that now I'll tell you what that is and of course verify it with your pitch gauge I've already made a scratch pass to verify that I'm on 12 threads per inch on the machine all right so we are ready to roll I'll give it a little test here with the coolant and see how it does on two make it splash too bad and by the way that looks pretty good right there I'm not even having to worry about the threading dial I just feel the lever engage and you can put it in any position for a 12 pitch thread on my machine and that's because I have a I have a four pitch lead screw and four is even and it's divided by it I'm sorry 12 is divided by four so as long as you can take your if your thread pitch is divided by the lead screw pitch and it's an even number you can you can engage anywhere you want all right so I'm just proving that theory right there we'll go ahead and start our thread and now beat it in 50 another 50 should be about where I want it always just lightly file the tops of your threads just to remove any burrs almost need to take just a little more to get in tight on me something like this I'm not worried about the pitch diameter or anything I just want the nut to have a pretty good fit and screw on there just because we're holding something up it's not a critical threat took another five thousand from that last try there and now we've got a nut that screw it on there good it's got a good fit there all right and also notice the face this face is that we're going to be using to push up against the you know the the Shiv and the spacer there we've got a spacer that's going to be between them right there it's already been face when I whenever I built another me I took this off of another mandrel and these nuts are never machine true I mean they they Forge them and then they run a tap through the inside of them to cut the threads so what I usually do on these on the face of these nuts here if you want to if you want to have a good face contact to this area here just put it on backwards you got to space it just put it on backwards to where your the face of its overlapping the end here and just screw it up tight and then go ahead and face it off just as long as it's machine true with the threads that's all you need there already to start turning these things I did put a little bit of blue moly on there to help protect the threads alright only thing I don't like about this is the spacer I already had a machine that I don't know why I had the idea of it board out to two and 1/8 I'm not sure so that's not going to be running true but I don't want to spend any more extra time than I have to so we're just going to use it come on start straight there you go and I'll just get one of my big pipe wrenches over here because I don't have a wrench big enough to turn this hex nut but I'll just get a pipe wrench over here to tighten this thing up that blue moly kind of snug those threads up a little all right so I've got this Center machined as well so I'm gonna run my live Center up I'm gonna run my live Center up there to support the this end of the stub and then we'll lock this down and then we can start our turning maybe this will be big enough I got a 24 inch pipe wrench here we can use I do have the lathe and the lowest gear may have to dog it off put a block against the ways and kind of coming up into the slot of the jaw there need to really lock it down [Music] I think we're gonna try that a lot - you only got my 36 inch pipe wrench and we're gonna we're going to use this one here a little more leverage on it we're gonna give that a try we're just going to get the OD down the size it's not a lot to come off there about fifty thousands and I'm not going to take it all the way down the fuzziness I'm gonna leave it just a such big that my plan is to maybe Kaneohe after Australia after I test the heat trees [Music] this leaves the OD ten thousands large so I'm going to leave it there and hopefully this will clean up once we're done but again the OD the the dimensions on this thing is not really critical it's just a shift that a cable is riding over okay so that's not gonna hurt anything we've already discussed that if the dimensions was changed as to touch so what we're going to do is relieve the center of it with this parting tool right here I'm going to go in there just about to full depth and then after that we'll go in there with a radius tool and actually cut to the slot I'm going to find the center of it here and then we'll start our groove ready to go I'm going to go just under a half inch deep toe [Music] it's gonna manually break those long chips just back off and go back in that's half of our debt quarter-inch per side we want to go a half inch per side [Music] almost there [Music] all right there we go so this is the tool that I'll be using right here this is a prune uses a 400 size insert so it's half-inch diameter so there's a perfect insert to cut that radius groove in that Shiv there all right we'll go right down the middle of it and it should cut both sides at one time [Music] all right getting some chatter I'm gonna have to slow her down a lot of cutting forces right there [Music] [Music] [Music] I liking it is it I'm just gonna roll with it we're running it at 74 RPM right there I think I can cheat it a little bit if I widen it out just a touch where I'm not cutting on both sides let me get it down to death first and it will do that [Music] should be the bottom right there we're just gonna see if we can widen it we'll start with five thousandths first alright there's that side and we'll go five thousands to the other side I'm working off of a zero here on the indicator that did the trick that worked so even though I'm not in carbide which calls for a lot higher surface feed than high speed you still a lot of times when you're doing this manual stuff you got to play with the rpms to help reduce the chatter so if you keep getting chattered on you know big tools like this you got to just keep dropping the RPM and seeing what it's going to do for you so that's pretty much there I'm going to clean it up one more time off camera just because I fed it in there by hand on the side so I want to make sure both sides are cleaned up real well and then we'll do our chamfers and then take it out we're gonna go ahead and bust it loose I got this piece of bronze bar stock here that I'm just gonna wedge between the jaw and the way there and that's that's resting down in the bottom of the ways we're nothing slides on it so we'll see if that holds yeah we're doing right there that's it that's a little trick you can do on either side when you're trying to tighten or loosen [Music] all right one down and one to go [Music] okay I got number two machines coming out of the lathe all right there we have it's looking good so I'm gonna get these I'm gonna get one of them ready for a heat treat I'm gonna do one and see how it does and if I get good results or if I do any improvement on it then I'll move on with the the second one and then from here I'm gonna get the lathe cleaned up wipe all these chips off there kind of get the cooling off and then I'll take my w4t and spray all over it it'll help dissipate all that water just wanted to show this I get a lot of people that ask about this kind of stuff too so as I said I wipe all the chips off the machine and kind of wipe most of the coolant off as well and then I just take wd-40 right there and just spray it all over everything it'll help displace the water in the coolant there you see where it kind of beads up and that always works really well [Music] [Music]

Channel: Abom79

Views: 253,132

Rating: 4.9614244 out of 5

Keywords: abom79, sheave, cable sheave, custom pulley, custom sheave, custom machine work, lathe work, machine shop, job shop, machining, metal machining, lathe, monarch lathe, radius tool, parting tool, multifix, manual machining, manual machinist, proon tool, hardness tester, rockwell hardness, 4140, machining 4140, taper shank drill, hot shot 360, heat treat oven, oil quench

Id: b_mJAQan--U

Length: 32min 0sec (1920 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 14 2020